Great guide. I recommend knipex 44 11 J3 pliers. So strong and perfect design. I was able to pick out the old circlip and put the new one in 1 handed. Alko part number is 1224081 including bearing, circlip and hub nut. Great advice reusing the outer race as a drift. 20 minute job. No problem. Cheers mate
Glad to see a practical approach to the torque wench. I have a 600mm 1/2" drive bar and no torque wench. So for other folks... A torque of 280 is required. Divide this by 9.81 gives 28.54 Then divide this by 0.6 (600mm bar length) gives 47.57 so adding a weight of about 47-48kg to the end of the bar when horizontal will give you your 280Nm OR, if you are about 94kg and your bar is about 300mm long, just step on it, no jumping.
great instructions thankyou. My locking nut is stuck fast. Been spraying with release oil and using blow torch too but so far, with out success. Any suggestion? BTW i have a breaker bar...
Those dewalt electric battery powered impact driver power wrench tools are great as they have 400lb-ft of torque. More than a breaker bar can do. Expensive but worth the money.
I wonder when it came to fitting the new bearing If putting the new bearing in the freezer over night And the hub in 100 degree C oven for a while Would have allowed it to slip in with ease?
All the bearings I have seen have a number stamped on the edge face, a bearing supplier should be able to supply the exact bearing, either from that number or looking at it. I use a local bearing stockist called henderson bearings.
They were just old generic ones. Too long ago to remember where I got them but they came with different sized ends to cope with most jobs. I don't think metric or imperial is a critical factor.
I’d be surprised if it wont move if hit each side of the bearing with a lump (heavy) hammer via a strong screwdriver or bar. You could also try heating the hub with a blow torch first. Otherwise try a bearing puller. I’m guessing that something like this would do it: amzn.to/2JX6sEi
A press is recommended for removing this bearing to avoid damaging the cast iron hub. Do not use anything other than mineral grease to lubricate the one shot nut because next time it is removed the AL-KO stub axle may be lossened because of the high torque on the hexagon bolt fixing the stub axle to the swing arm. If this happens you will have to remove the axle and send it back to AL-KO to be realigned for toe in ect.
Thanks for your input, that probably is the official line. Although personally I prefer to be more certain that the hub nut doesn't loosen and the wheel fall off while driving, even though there may be that small risk next time it's removed that the stub bolt may loosen, which would then have to be fixed. Toe in/out can be measured with a fairly cheap tool that I show in another of my videos.
Oh Dear, glad he isn't changing my bearings! If I treated my tools like that I wouldn't have many left in good condition. Perhaps using the correct size circlip pliers might have helped removing the circlip? So rather than beating out the bearing with a socket that was clearly the wrong size anyhow, what's wrong with using the correct size socket (if you must) with a large washer and bolt (or piece of studding) with a drilled bar across the back of the hub to pull the bearing out? Then the reverse to pull the bearing in, after heating the hub of course. This will prevent you damaging the new bearing. Of course you will probably destroy the bearing or leave the bearing on the shaft the next time you pull it off as he has put no copper slip on the axle before replacing the hub. The Alko wheel nuts are single use for a reason, they are actually slightly ovulated so that when you screw them on they grip the axle thread. No locktite required just a paint indicator mark on the outside of the "Correctly Torqued" nut. Or in his case three and a half white knuckles and a bit. If you need a spare wheel just follow this guy and your bound to pick up one of his along the hard shoulder somewhere ... Just Sayin!
Lol. Not everyone has every single socket or circlip pliers size or expensive high torque wrenches. So this shows what you can achieve without those. The aim being to encourage more DIY with what an average guy might typically have in his garage or can buy cheaply. Similarly by all means use a bearing puller if you have one that fits. I didn’t and although drifting out a hearing is very slightly more risky, 99.9% of the time it is just as good. The key thing is not damaging the bearings when reinserting and hence the tip to make a tool out of the old bearing. You suggest using a socket to pull the bearing back in again but this gives a much great risk of damaging the new bearing if the socket touches the inner bearing race or seal, which would put pressure on the ball bearings. Much better to turn the old bearing into a tool to completely avoid this risk, as in the video. On the nuts, in the video I talk about the fact that Alko recommend new ones should be used and that they are elliptical and that that would have to be my recommendation. Did you skip over that bit? Some people do however reuse them and if doing so I personally would use thread locker to avoid risking the nut coming loose. Since others have already commented on here about the issue of alko bearing coming off due to the nut coming loose. I think I would personally use thread locker even with new nuts. I know there is a risk of the stub nut loosening when next removing but I would prefer that over risking the wheel coming off. That’s my personal opinion and each to their own choice. By the way this was done over a year ago and the trailer is still fine.
I wouldn't be using anything to reinstall a press in bearing other than a press or bearing hub tool. If you take your new bearing to most garages with the kind offer of a drink any mechanic will press it in for you
I guess you haven’t fitted many bearings then, I have done loads by drifting them in. It is fine as long as you evenly tap them in with careful even force around the bearing outer surface. A socket of just the right size is perfect for the job.
The bearings on these are pregreased and sealed. So no extra greasing is required. This is unlike a lot of bearings that are tapered and need greasing.
I dont like the risk of the wheel nuts unscrewing and the wheel coming off, hence my comments in the video about using thread locker compound, against the Alko advice.
Great guide. I recommend knipex 44 11 J3 pliers. So strong and perfect design. I was able to pick out the old circlip and put the new one in 1 handed.
Alko part number is 1224081 including bearing, circlip and hub nut.
Great advice reusing the outer race as a drift. 20 minute job. No problem. Cheers mate
Thanks for your extra tips. Cheers.
Glad to see a practical approach to the torque wench.
I have a 600mm 1/2" drive bar and no torque wench.
So for other folks...
A torque of 280 is required.
Divide this by 9.81 gives 28.54
Then divide this by 0.6 (600mm bar length) gives 47.57
so adding a weight of about 47-48kg to the end of the bar when horizontal will give you your 280Nm
OR, if you are about 94kg and your bar is about 300mm long, just step on it, no jumping.
Thanks for your useful inputs.
great instructions thankyou. My locking nut is stuck fast. Been spraying with release oil and using blow torch too but so far, with out success. Any suggestion?
BTW i have a breaker bar...
Those dewalt electric battery powered impact driver power wrench tools are great as they have 400lb-ft of torque. More than a breaker bar can do. Expensive but worth the money.
@@comeinhandynow thanks
excellent video - thanks
Cheers
love the torque wrench with the rubber tip ,I've had one of them for years but stopped using it , its back in use now .
Good to hear, thanks.
Just replaced both my sealed bearings with your method. Worked like a c
A c? Is that good or bad?
I have seen a guy on UA-cam remove and replace the bearing by heating the drum on an induction hot plate. It works as I have done this myself
Useful input for those with an induction hob. Otherwise knock it out.
I wonder when it came to fitting the new bearing
If putting the new bearing in the freezer over night
And the hub in 100 degree C oven for a while
Would have allowed it to slip in with ease?
Maybe that would help, but its a lot quicker to just drift it in as shown.
Works wonders.
Hi I have 1992 coachbuild motorhome. How do I find out which Alko bearings I need please?
Any advice appreciated
All the bearings I have seen have a number stamped on the edge face, a bearing supplier should be able to supply the exact bearing, either from that number or looking at it. I use a local bearing stockist called henderson bearings.
very good thank you
Cheers
given that AL-KO is metric and the holes in the circlip may be metric, can you please recommend the make and model number of circlip pliers you used?
They were just old generic ones. Too long ago to remember where I got them but they came with different sized ends to cope with most jobs. I don't think metric or imperial is a critical factor.
@@comeinhandynow tnx!
Old school method 👍, Did the bearing last?
Yes
My bearing has run dry hot and a lot of shavings in the dust cover.
I can’t remove by hand, so I will have to use a hub puller?
I’d be surprised if it wont move if hit each side of the bearing with a lump (heavy) hammer via a strong screwdriver or bar. You could also try heating the hub with a blow torch first.
Otherwise try a bearing puller. I’m guessing that something like this would do it: amzn.to/2JX6sEi
comeinhandynow was thinking this , as it’s still on hub, unable to pull off.
www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht240-universal-hub-puller/
Ah, I see. Yes try that.
A press is recommended for removing this bearing to avoid damaging the cast iron hub. Do not use anything other than mineral grease to lubricate the one shot nut because next time it is removed the AL-KO stub axle may be lossened because of the high torque on the hexagon bolt fixing the stub axle to the swing arm. If this happens you will have to remove the axle and send it back to AL-KO to be realigned for toe in ect.
Thanks for your input, that probably is the official line. Although personally I prefer to be more certain that the hub nut doesn't loosen and the wheel fall off while driving, even though there may be that small risk next time it's removed that the stub bolt may loosen, which would then have to be fixed.
Toe in/out can be measured with a fairly cheap tool that I show in another of my videos.
can you please recommend a press and source for ALKO bearing removal?
Excellent video.
Cheers
Oh Dear, glad he isn't changing my bearings! If I treated my tools like that I wouldn't have many left in good condition. Perhaps using the correct size circlip pliers might have helped removing the circlip? So rather than beating out the bearing with a socket that was clearly the wrong size anyhow, what's wrong with using the correct size socket (if you must) with a large washer and bolt (or piece of studding) with a drilled bar across the back of the hub to pull the bearing out? Then the reverse to pull the bearing in, after heating the hub of course. This will prevent you damaging the new bearing. Of course you will probably destroy the bearing or leave the bearing on the shaft the next time you pull it off as he has put no copper slip on the axle before replacing the hub. The Alko wheel nuts are single use for a reason, they are actually slightly ovulated so that when you screw them on they grip the axle thread. No locktite required just a paint indicator mark on the outside of the "Correctly Torqued" nut. Or in his case three and a half white knuckles and a bit.
If you need a spare wheel just follow this guy and your bound to pick up one of his along the hard shoulder somewhere ... Just Sayin!
Lol. Not everyone has every single socket or circlip pliers size or expensive high torque wrenches. So this shows what you can achieve without those. The aim being to encourage more DIY with what an average guy might typically have in his garage or can buy cheaply.
Similarly by all means use a bearing puller if you have one that fits. I didn’t and although drifting out a hearing is very slightly more risky, 99.9% of the time it is just as good.
The key thing is not damaging the bearings when reinserting and hence the tip to make a tool out of the old bearing.
You suggest using a socket to pull the bearing back in again but this gives a much great risk of damaging the new bearing if the socket touches the inner bearing race or seal, which would put pressure on the ball bearings. Much better to turn the old bearing into a tool to completely avoid this risk, as in the video.
On the nuts, in the video I talk about the fact that Alko recommend new ones should be used and that they are elliptical and that that would have to be my recommendation. Did you skip over that bit? Some people do however reuse them and if doing so I personally would use thread locker to avoid risking the nut coming loose.
Since others have already commented on here about the issue of alko bearing coming off due to the nut coming loose. I think I would personally use thread locker even with new nuts. I know there is a risk of the stub nut loosening when next removing but I would prefer that over risking the wheel coming off. That’s my personal opinion and each to their own choice.
By the way this was done over a year ago and the trailer is still fine.
Quality comment and very informative. Cheers for that .
Nothing wrong with any thing he did. Well, I wouldn't have used the cutoff wheel while holding the old part. But, he got it done, with what he had.
What was the company he mentioned which supply reusable hub nuts?
I wouldn't be using anything to reinstall a press in bearing other than a press or bearing hub tool. If you take your new bearing to most garages with the kind offer of a drink any mechanic will press it in for you
I guess you haven’t fitted many bearings then, I have done loads by drifting them in. It is fine as long as you evenly tap them in with careful even force around the bearing outer surface. A socket of just the right size is perfect for the job.
I don't see any packing of grease
The bearings on these are pregreased and sealed. So no extra greasing is required. This is unlike a lot of bearings that are tapered and need greasing.
Cool
al-ko bearing is shit! KNOTT I used by 200 000km alko 12 000 km and 3 days ago I lost 2 wheels !
I dont like the risk of the wheel nuts unscrewing and the wheel coming off, hence my comments in the video about using thread locker compound, against the Alko advice.