I didn't know you could get spray on photo resist, thanks for introducing it to me. I will have to look in to getting some, the dry film doesn't all ways stick to well.
Nice tutorial! I'm wondering: what about using a resin 3D printer (that uses UV-light) to do the exposure without using the adhesive mask, projecting the image directly from LCD panel? Could be an option?
That‘s genius! I thought about exposing it with my resin curing Maschine, but the 3d printer lcd exposure is a good idea! Problem could be, that the layer of photoresist is not even. But there are sheets available. Thanks for the tip!
@@gxlab_it and instead of spray resist, I use cheap dry-film photoresist from eBay for etching brass. Just rub the film on, set it using a clothes iron, expose for a minute on my resin printer, rinse with sodium carbonate (cheap and much safer than sodium hydroxide), then etch with ammonium persulphate. EDIT: I previously incorrectly said ammonium PERCHLORATE.
Jepp, I’m aware. But nickel is a contact allergen and therefore the nickel electrolyte is restricted in various countries. I just wanted to show a safe way 😃
Are there any websites you have to purchase all the needed chemicals for the electroplating process? Can I find some of these chemicals at a local hardware store? I'm trying to get an idea of the overall cost.
I've had an issue with electroplating my resin prints with copper. When even I am plating this soft spongey kind of rust stuff starts to form around my part. It can actually fill up the entire tank with it. Another one is that the copper won't stick at all, I am using graphite powder with mod podge and a little bit of black paint and distilled water. I did have one test part work but it probably took around 20 hours to get it partially plated
In my opinion you should not simply conductive copper paint and thin it with acetone, then airbrush it. Works best. Filter your electrolyte with a coffee filter first.
My dream is to 3D print a Kar-98k from Call of Duty Warzone Verdansk, electroplated this way with a Damascus finish. I hope to start electroplating prints in plain copper to start before I graduate to palladium and 24 carat gold etc. My problem is finding coper electrolyte solution and graphite and/or copper conductive spray here in South Africa. I'm trying everywhere but nobody can seem to help me.
interesting process, looks very cool finish. Do you know if there is a process to make Carbon Fiber filament 3D printed parts even stronger ? like some type of glue/resine that can be spray(?) on the final print?
Just plating a think copper layer makes any wobbly PLA part very stiff and strong. I thing it will do so on carbon fiber as well. That‘s because of metal that is actually put around the whole structure: try to straightly pull apart tin foil; I think it‘s like that… somehow..
Can’t find the ingredients online. When I look for Palladium Elektrolyte, I m offered shoes, cosmetics and energy drinks 😂. Where can i buy all this in germany? Tolle Videos übrigens, weiter so 👍
Hi, I love your stuff, I’m trying to buy a power controller for plating, can you recommend me a good one not to expensive for large object like helmets? Pls thanks
I got that peaktech p6160. It delivers up to 30A and doesn’t get even hot. 30A is still a bit too low for helmets. 40A would be perfect but it actually works good, as you can see at my mandalorian helmet.
@@hen3drik Awesome to know. Thank you so much. But a quick question. Do you have to take extra steps when it comes to resin prints or can you do it the same as in the video?
@@Darth_Melek check this out: Electroplating Plastic 3D Prints | Thermal Detonator ua-cam.com/video/ywPi1osy7o8/v-deo.html It‘s a full untreated resin electroforming
I buy most of my galvanic stuff from tifoo. You should check out if they send to your country or considering getting a similar equipment that gets the job done. It‘s basically a holder for the anode.
@@hen3drik yeah they seem to have everything in one place but don’t ship to Canada unfortunately. I wanted to ask, do you know what kind of additives they add to their electrolyte? I was planning on using hydrogen peroxide/ vinegar + copper to make my own sour electrolyte. I know some people are laxative and other things to use as a brightener. Do you have any additional electrolyte ingredient recommendations? Also thanks for your reply :)
@@svarog9053 I don‘t do my own electrolyte but when the brightener wears off I add new to my filtered solution. Unfortunately that brightener is from the same tifoo shop. I‘m sorry that I can not give you more advice. Try to get a ready mixed acidic copper electrolyte with brightner, it lasts very long.
This method seems wasteful when you're doing it just for one item. It seems to me that you should do at least 5-10 items at the same time through this process. What do you think, what would be max efficient amount and which part of the process would be bottleneck?
Wahnsinn! Noch nie gesehen, sowas. Top Job.
Aber natürlich ein erheblicher Aufwand,
bringt den 3D Druck auf eine neue Stufe.
Das Verfahren wird doch im Groben auch verwendet um eigene Leiterplatten zu erstellen.
This channel is awesome
I value that, thanks!
Great stuff! I thought this technique would be able to do awesome patterns like beskar steel after your last video! Thanks for sharing!
Yep, made this for you.
@@hen3drik too kind! Thanks again!
I didn't know you could get spray on photo resist, thanks for introducing it to me. I will have to look in to getting some, the dry film doesn't all ways stick to well.
The Spraypaint bulges on edges, that‘s tricky, too. Wish you luck!
Excellent video!
This is the Way..........................to Counterfeit Beskar Lol ...LOVE IT!!
Nice tutorial! I'm wondering: what about using a resin 3D printer (that uses UV-light) to do the exposure without using the adhesive mask, projecting the image directly from LCD panel? Could be an option?
That‘s genius! I thought about exposing it with my resin curing Maschine, but the 3d printer lcd exposure is a good idea! Problem could be, that the layer of photoresist is not even. But there are sheets available. Thanks for the tip!
@@hen3drik people do it for PCB's: ua-cam.com/video/-Qeq7ZgUOuE/v-deo.html
A bit late, but I can confirm this works perfectly.
@@michaelnoble2432 Wonderful! 😮
@@gxlab_it and instead of spray resist, I use cheap dry-film photoresist from eBay for etching brass.
Just rub the film on, set it using a clothes iron, expose for a minute on my resin printer, rinse with sodium carbonate (cheap and much safer than sodium hydroxide), then etch with ammonium persulphate.
EDIT: I previously incorrectly said ammonium PERCHLORATE.
Really interesting video - if you want to go straight to a silver metallic finish could you bath electroplate with nickel instead of copper?
Jepp, I’m aware. But nickel is a contact allergen and therefore the nickel electrolyte is restricted in various countries. I just wanted to show a safe way 😃
haha that uv light xD
Yeah.. bzzzzzzzz.
Nice effect! How many hours took this project?
Thanks, when you go straight, the whole process is about 20hrs. Rushed ;-)
How about some 3D printed, electroplated ps5 panels ;)
Are there any websites you have to purchase all the needed chemicals for the electroplating process? Can I find some of these chemicals at a local hardware store? I'm trying to get an idea of the overall cost.
awesome, what are you using for a degreaser?
I am using tifoo degreaser for this.
Cool dude! Very creative ideas and helpful. Please protect yourself with all the chemicals (also PU) or you won't be around very long.
hanks lot Sir.. You helping us..
I've had an issue with electroplating my resin prints with copper. When even I am plating this soft spongey kind of rust stuff starts to form around my part. It can actually fill up the entire tank with it. Another one is that the copper won't stick at all, I am using graphite powder with mod podge and a little bit of black paint and distilled water.
I did have one test part work but it probably took around 20 hours to get it partially plated
In my opinion you should not simply conductive copper paint and thin it with acetone, then airbrush it. Works best. Filter your electrolyte with a coffee filter first.
more new videos please! ::)
My dream is to 3D print a Kar-98k from Call of Duty Warzone Verdansk, electroplated this way with a Damascus finish. I hope to start electroplating prints in plain copper to start before I graduate to palladium and 24 carat gold etc. My problem is finding coper electrolyte solution and graphite and/or copper conductive spray here in South Africa. I'm trying everywhere but nobody can seem to help me.
interesting process, looks very cool finish. Do you know if there is a process to make Carbon Fiber filament 3D printed parts even stronger ? like some type of glue/resine that can be spray(?) on the final print?
Just plating a think copper layer makes any wobbly PLA part very stiff and strong. I thing it will do so on carbon fiber as well. That‘s because of metal that is actually put around the whole structure: try to straightly pull apart tin foil; I think it‘s like that… somehow..
So... how many layers was that, in total...I kinda got lost...
It was three layers in total: copper->palladium->chrome. The chrome layer was created by masking the palladium with a photo positive varnish.
Can’t find the ingredients online. When I look for Palladium Elektrolyte, I m offered shoes, cosmetics and energy drinks 😂. Where can i buy all this in germany?
Tolle Videos übrigens, weiter so 👍
Thanks! Try tifoo + elektrolyte.
thanks so much man
Hi, I love your stuff, I’m trying to buy a power controller for plating, can you recommend me a good one not to expensive for large object like helmets? Pls thanks
I got that peaktech p6160. It delivers up to 30A and doesn’t get even hot. 30A is still a bit too low for helmets. 40A would be perfect but it actually works good, as you can see at my mandalorian helmet.
Resind Drucker zuhause?
Könntest verschiedenste Masken auch direkt mit diesem machen, indem du die Teile aufs Display legst ;)
Ja, du bist schon der zweite, der das anmerkt. Total geniale Idee! Muss ich nicht mehr das Solarium schleppen ;-)
@@hen3drik Und du brauchst keine Schablonen mehr usw^^
could print it out and then cast in copper.
Hen3driks steel turns out to be more expensive than the actual Beskar Steel
Is it safe to electroplate resin prints as well?
Yes, these are pretty great to electroform
@@hen3drik Awesome to know. Thank you so much. But a quick question. Do you have to take extra steps when it comes to resin prints or can you do it the same as in the video?
@@Darth_Melek check this out: Electroplating Plastic 3D Prints | Thermal Detonator
ua-cam.com/video/ywPi1osy7o8/v-deo.html
It‘s a full untreated resin electroforming
@@hen3drik Oh I think I watched it before but I'll watch it again now :D
Surface has to be smooth, that’s all 😃
I'm watching this knowing damn well I'll never do this.
Where do you get/buy one of those Galvanic pen set ups?
I buy most of my galvanic stuff from tifoo. You should check out if they send to your country or considering getting a similar equipment that gets the job done. It‘s basically a holder for the anode.
@@hen3drik yeah they seem to have everything in one place but don’t ship to Canada unfortunately. I wanted to ask, do you know what kind of additives they add to their electrolyte? I was planning on using hydrogen peroxide/ vinegar + copper to make my own sour electrolyte. I know some people are laxative and other things to use as a brightener. Do you have any additional electrolyte ingredient recommendations?
Also thanks for your reply :)
@@svarog9053 I don‘t do my own electrolyte but when the brightener wears off I add new to my filtered solution. Unfortunately that brightener is from the same tifoo shop. I‘m sorry that I can not give you more advice. Try to get a ready mixed acidic copper electrolyte with brightner, it lasts very long.
Thats a very nice effect but it looks nothing like the Beskar in the Mandalorian shows, it looks more like a photocopy of the Beskar ingot.
This method seems wasteful when you're doing it just for one item. It seems to me that you should do at least 5-10 items at the same time through this process. What do you think, what would be max efficient amount and which part of the process would be bottleneck?
This is just a tutorial on a possible method. I don’t intend to create great amounts of it.
🤦🏻♂️🤣😅😂🤣🥲