Ultralight Metallic Microlattices
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- Опубліковано 11 сер 2020
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A team of researchers created ultralight metallic microlattices back in 2011... and I tried to replicate their result using commercially available, off-the-shelf materials.
The authors used a special self-propagating photocurable resin, electroless nickel plating and a special solution to dissolve the resin. I have a cheap resin printer and some DIY copper/nickel electroplating baths. In this video we see if we can recreate their result, and work through the challenges of COTS materials.
I started with resin prints + copper/nickel plating, but due to gas pressure during thermal decomposition of the resin, eventually switched to PLA FDM printing. Less beautiful lattices, but more encouraging results :)
Lattices and TPMS were generated with nTop (ntopology.com/)
Schaedler, Tobias A., et al. "Ultralight metallic microlattices." Science 334.6058 (2011): 962-965. (science.sciencemag.org/conten...) - Наука та технологія
I can't believe UA-cam waited until now to recommend your videos to me. Your work is awesome! Really nice job on everything! Let me know if you ever need anything.
Thanks Ben! Huge fan of all your videos! Will definitely give you a ping if I get stuck on something, thanks! When I've been on the edge of despair/quitting on a few projects, I've thought back to the hundreds of parameter variations you tried on the copper electroless plating video. Helps me get back to testing the next iteration instead of sulking :)
perhaps you can do a compilation of such channels! many viewers like myself really wanna see this kind of content, but aren't exposed to these channels
Me too, I just got Breaking Taps' videos a few days ago. The channel name alone is worth a subscription.
I agree, awesome channel and a shame it isn't promoted to everyone with technical interests. I guess there is a 'critical mass' algorithm.
I have found a LOT of interesting channels just by scrolling down on YT's frontpage on a PC. There's a lot of video/channel repeats - but also a lot of new interesting stuff worth a click. Thumbnail, Channel name and description says a lot, takes a lot of time too :ø)
Also going to main channel/replying users CHANNELS (Home, Videos, Playlists, Community, Channels, About, Search) can sometimes expand ones network and works like a direct way instead of a recommended way to discovering new channels.
lol watched your videos for ages but also just found this channel like 2 weeks ago been binging :)
Great Video!! ... I can see a potential Applied Science and Tech Ingredients Contender
That's probably the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me :) Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
I like how UA-cam has 'Big ballers' in basically every topic lol
Wrong, these channels do not compete for my time, they all get it.
Hey dude I thought id let you know that there is resin designed to be burnt out. Its mostly for ring making and might work well for this. You may have looked into it already though
What is the name of the resin for burnout ? Trying to replicate this paper as well, would be interesting.
@@lelegricc1520 I'm not sure of the name but if you do a bit of searching for jewellery casting resins you should find something. It is very popular for ring investment casting👍
I've recently learned there are UV curing waxes for jewellery making, I want to try it out for some of my mold making, but also thing it might be just the thing you need for this process.
Check out Formlabs Wax40. It has 40% of wax in it so it does not expand.
@@aasiaasi $$$ there is cheaper versions out there
@@kennypeoples3288 With 40%?
For electroplating I’d suggest using a pulsed waveform and electrolyte stirring.
You could make incredible DIY radio antennae with this tech: micro-arrays and complex fractals omg I love your content.
I was thinking the same thing.
Inb4 3d-printed microwave-band invisibility cloak based on a structured meta-material.
Out of curiosity, what advantages would that have? :o
@@AsmageddonPrince fractals can handle large bandwidths in small spaces, they are used in cell phone pcb antennae. Micro-arrays are a great bunch of tiny antennae put together to perform a task; one example is the Starlink dish that can point and track satellites without moving because all the little antennae are pointing in different directions to cover a large arc of the sky.
Thousands of interlinked micro arrays spread across the planet...
How do you have only 3.4k subs!. This is by far the best up and coming channel on youtube.
Thanks!
Only second to tiktok videos.
Great work! I've worked for years with RepliForm who do this professionally with additive parts. We've used it for SLA and SLS components that need to be more mechanically robust, but it's not necessarily a cosmetic finish as some think due to the natural surface of a printed part.
Oh cool, wasn't aware of that company...very neat! Will keep them in mind if I ever need a part plated for real! :) In case anyone else is interested, RepliForm has a really nice presentation with real numbers too: www.repliforminc.com/ElectroplatedAMParts%E2%80%93Composites_without_Tooling.pdf
Happy to see this is a "thing" that's done in the industry to improve robustness of the print! Feels like more people should be doing this, it was sort of staggering how much stronger the print felt qualitatively :)
@@BreakingTaps We also did a webinar on plating Formlabs print. The video of that is available for streaming.
3d.formlabs.com/recording-closest-thing-metal-3D-printing-with-3500-printer/??
Awesome, will have a watch later! Thanks!
It's borderline criminal that you don't have more subscribers.
Thanks! I've been trying to improve my thumbnail and title game lately, I suspect that's played a large part of it so far. But oh well, just the way things go... I enjoy making the content and folks will find it one way or another eventually I figure :) Thanks for stopping by!
It might be interesting to use ABS on your FDM printer if you can get it tuned as that can be dissolved with acetone quite easily :) You might also be able to do some ABS smoothing before electroplating to get even cleaner surfaces. Cool channel!
Ben over at Applied Science recently posted a video about how to make an electrodeless copper plating solution, he used it for unconventional PCB fabrication on the surface of 3d prints.
Edit: About a year ago, named "Make plastic printed circuits with a standard laser cutter"
Oh, cool! I somehow missed that video, will go check it out. I devour all of his videos so I have no idea how I missed it. Would love to try out electroless, didn't realize you could do it with copper!
Great - another outstanding channel I’m going to have binge watch every video through. I really enjoy how your mind works and you’ve a great voice for narration; also, your videography is super and I like your quirky humorisms. I appreciate you’ve taken the time to share your work and organize it so well. Nice work.
I love your projects. Thank you for sharing!
You are really getting screwed by the youtube recommendation algorithm, I have no idea how I'm just finding out about your channel
That's the way it goes sometimes I guess :) Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching! I suspect I need to work on thumbnails/descriptions/intros or something to appease the algo. Not overly concerned though...I enjoy the process, folks seem to like the content and the algo will figure it out eventually 🤞
It could be a case of the amount of content? more content more exposure? not sure but would make sence.
This was quite the experiment. Like you said, it wasn't like the paper but you didn't exactly have the same equipment and consumables either. Awesome work! Even the issues you had you covered and explained why.
This is definitely something to look more into.
you could use PVA on an FDM printer to avoid the burning part. PVA is soluble in (warm) water. But I think burning it out is much faster then disolving it
This is amazing! It reminds me a lot of isogrid panelling but as a 3D thing, I love it!
You should try printing with conductive filament from Proto-Pasta! That will eliminate the painting step and might work better! They also have other metallic filaments that might be worth while trying to electroplate!
Nice job on the video! You got yourself a subscriber and a fan. Keep up the awesome work!
AWESOME video! man I cant wait to see you hit 100k subs, I know it is coming
On the plating issue, have you considered distributing the anode, like stringing the wires through the grid.
That paper sounds brilliant! I will definitely have to read it!
Outstanding work😎
How have I not seen this before! Your channel is awesome. Instant sub!
Yes, I remember this paper. I was excited to see that there was a video about it.
These scaled up would make incredible radiators/intercoolers..... I think I will look into 3d printing radiator and intercooler cores
This is such a great experiment to lead into energy dissipating lattice structures.
Layering a few different forms, experimenting with the plating and seeing which absorbs and spreads energy the best. Of course, I'm referring to shooting it lol.
This is awesome. Bravo.
Wooohooo just found your channel! I'm excited to see the rest of your videos
Thank you so so much!!!
Awesome video! Wish I found this channel sooner!
Just some thoughts:
-For applying a conductive layer you could use something graphite 33 which is a cheap spray paint system used for ESD Work.
-Arent many people allergic to nickel? At least here in europe i dont want to use a nickel plating for functional parts. What are good alternatives here? Maybe zink could work.
These are not the type of parts someone would be in constant contact with the nickel allergies shouldn't be an issue
Wow, just discovered your channel and it's exactly what i wanna see!
Terrific, I can see I will like your videos from this single one
Thanks very much for sharing your ideas on air brushable conductive paints- something I've been curious about for a long time. I will definitely try this. I've been electroplating for a decade, and am looking to do more with airbrushing complex designs with vinyl masking. I really appreciate your R&D on this.
The silver conductive paint is great, but is so expensive and uses narsty solvents. I was making paints by chewing up graphite gouging electrodes in a pencil sharpener, then a bit of grinding in a mortar and pestle. The paint was chunky and terrible looking, but that turned out to be a cool aspect, artistically.
Formlabs sells "Castable Wax" resin! That might work better for a lost cast. Great stuff!
ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT!!!
what a cool way to achieve metal 3d printing!!!
Can't wait to see more in the series
I love the style of your videos. Somewhat similar to Applied Science
Very interesting. What about printing with conductive PLA and skipping the carbon ink stage?
I haven't tried it before, but if that filament is reasonably conductive (say, under a few kOhm resistance) it'd probably work well! The graphite just acts as a "seed" to start the plating, once a bit of copper starts to plate out it progresses rapidly from there and covers the surface. So really anything that's "conductive enough" should do the job :)
Thank you for the positive feeds ☺️ May Allah bless you. I was talking to my parents about design one version for commercial use.
Your videos are awesome.
Reminds me of a company I was reading about called modumetal. This was a great video! interested to hear more about the software you used to generate the lattice
Fascinating.
This is awesome.
Wow, this is amazing
There is commercially available wax sla resins, might work well here
Ah interesting! I might have to pick up a bottle of that and try it out :) I noticed on Formlabs that their burnout schedule was _a lot_ slower than mine... like 14+ hours (mine was closer to 4). I wonder how much that contributed to my troubles...burning it out too quickly.
@@BreakingTaps Yeah check out the resins for jewelry casting - there are a bunch. FunToDo and Phrozen both make them.
@@BreakingTaps UA-cam channel Veg Oil Guy is working extensively with that kind of SLA resin for casting, you should check out their videos.
@@MrBleulauneable Will take a look, thanks for the recommendation!
this has inspired me to use electroplating to make plastic parts have a metallic finish
Did we ever follow up on this? I would love to see the paper you read reproduced the way they did it - burnout resin and chemical electroplating.
Try a spring loaded wire grabber to reach into the center for your electrical connection to the part.
It may help to stir or agitate the solution, plating relies on ions diffusing through the solution under electrostatic motivation. Areas can be depleted of ions but stirring may improve the situation. Very interesting video and great job improvising and improving when things didn’t go the way you wanted them to. I immediately thought of aerogels when I saw the introduction but was pleasantly surprised to see your approach.
for the paint if you were to do this again i might sugest white paint that may give you a nice signal when you have achieved the correct density of graphite based on shade
I have been were you are a couple of years ago but for High aspect ratio structures. My solution for the resin ( SU-8 at that time) was on nasty Molten Salt solution( oxidises eveytthing . And for the plating You need a well controlled sonic agtaion. That breakes down the nernst defusion layer and ensures turbulent convection within the structure. This overcomes the problem that the inenrts of lattice depletes of ions. I used a Megahertz transducer with half a kW but my structures where in the 5 µm scale and an aspect ratio with 1:10. So may be if you can regulated the power on your US bath put your beaker in and Try it out. the trick is that the Thickness of your Defusion layer become govern by the agitaion frequency not by the velosity of the quasi laminar flow across the surface. have fun
Awesome, thanks for the tips! That's interesting regarding sonication... I wouldn't have thought of that. I had been considering setting up some kind of pump/jet to get electrolyte into the lattice, or just a stir bar. But I'll try the ultrasound instead...maybe a good excuse to get a probe sonicator/homogenizer too, could insert that right into into the middle of the lattice :)
Molten salt though, yikes! Think I'll avoid that for now :) Not surprised though, I threw every acid and base I had at it and nothing. I thought surely HF would do something but I guess not :)
@@BreakingTaps The Problem is that with a laminaresque stream you will always form what is called a Nernst diffusion layer. of several tens of microns. due to the non-slip condition on the liquid-solid interface. And therefore the only terms that can resupply the interface with ions is diffusion with those structure. But on the outside the convection contributed to a much higher degree so that means the field has a much easier job supporting the plating process and therefor contributing to further imbalance. Sonic aggitation break up the diffusion layer and bring ions to the surface.The difference in the Distance between the electrode, and the surfaces is still a problem but you might wanna have a look in to bipolar plating with variable Pluse width and voltage levels so you level your plating by cyclic plating and etching. By the way brightners alway help. Cheers Jens
Wow. That's amazing!!! I'm waiting a Home 3d chip printer... The perseverance chip has a 150-250 nm chip... So...
Love your channel, incredible work as always. What journals do you look to for inspiration? Are you always scanning a few for new topics and ideas?
Thanks! No journals in particular. Typically I'll have some kind of idea or technique in mind but unsure if it exists, then start skimming through Google Scholar to find review articles in the general area. Then start chasing down citations of interesting sounding papers. About half the time I end up somewhere far away from where I started but that's part of the fun :)
Would some sort of circulation system improve the plating on the internal lattice?
Thanks for taking time to cut open the lattice on camera. The difference in plating thickness became much easier to see once you cut the part open.
I just discovered your channel yesterday. I'm looking forward to watching your past videos. Thanks for sharing your work with us.
Thanks! Circulation would definitely help some, and another commenter mentioned that ultrasonic agitation can help too. Helps dislodge bubbles, keep electrolyte well mixed, remove byproducts etc. But it'll only help so much because the electric field just won't penetrate sufficiently far if the lattice is too dense. I found an interesting NASA paper where they addressed this though: they used thin copper wires that were wrapped in porous fiberglass sleeves, and threaded those through the object to plate. The sleeves prevented direct electrical contact, but since they were porous they let electrolyte flow and make electrical contact. So they could get the field deep inside a part for more even plating. Something like that would probably work here I think.
This is the coolest channel!!!!!!!
Cool! Thanks for sharing! Whats that pencil you got there?
Look for "wax/casting/jewelry" resin, it doesn't expands as much and I had pretty good results, also add a vent to your model to leave room for the resin burnout products escape from. For the conductive coating I cannot recommend acrylic paint and graphene it's dirty and causes structural issues with very uneven plating. What I found to work really well is 843AR it's conductive copper/silver coating (used to coat plastics for EMI shielding) which is relatively cheap 843AR-340G comes in ready to use aerosol cans and the 400ml version of it costs about 30 quid in the UK so I would assume it would be in the $30-40 range in the US.
Since it's designed for plastics it has very good adhesion and it's conductive enough to accept electroplating, it also provides very uniform coverage since it can be sprayed on.
Oooh, will pick up a can of that spray! I've been using the acrylic/graphite ink (and some variations) on various projects since this video and have been generally dissatisfied for the exact reasons you mentioned :) Poor adhesion, so-so conductivity, uneven coating. You haven't had any issues plating over the silver? I know some metals don't like being plated on top of others, but don't remember if silver is one of those.
@@BreakingTaps Copper can be plated over silver, 843AR is silver plated copper nanoparticles so in theory if you find a non destructive way to "deplate" the silver you will be left only with exposed copper but I haven't found that to be necessary, it should also accept Nickle plating.
There also should be pure copper conductive coating for EMI, I honestly didn't bothered to look for it, the company has a few other products that may be useful for plating, including pure silver, carbon, and nickle conductive paints.
www.mgchemicals.com/category/conductive-paint/conductive-spray-paint/
They were simply one of the first that came up when I did my search and they are available on Mouser/Digikey/Farnell and most importantly Amazon www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Conductive-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B01MQ165E3
@@DOGMA1138 Awesome, thanks for the extra details! Just picked up a can of the copper/silver spray, and one of the graphite spray just for good measure. :)
@@BreakingTaps You might also want to look into their conductive pens, the silver and nickle ones have good enough conductivity for basic circuits without any additional plating and they adhere to pretty much every material I've tried them on including wood and teflon.
They also have a very affordable low temp solder paste it reflows at 138c which means you can actually use it on plastics even with a regular soldering iron (if you can dial it that low) if you are careful..
www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Sn42Bi57Ag1-Temperature-Dispensing/dp/B075ZR52JM
I've made some flexible circuits with this combo and it was so much easier than cutting copper tape or trying to plate kapton or pei sheets.
Conductive 3d printing filaments are a thing. This needs to happen for science.
Also is that printer a bowden tube or direct drive? A direct drive machine will make easy work of that. I just converted mine and it was a big jump in quality.
wonder about expanding urethane closed cell foam filling the final parts for use as composite core materials .
You can get resin wax like blends for resin printing.
Hey! Very interesting video, I'd love to give this a shot eventually. Have you thought about using Tollen's reagent to cover the part in silver instead of using conductive ink? You can directly electroplate nickel onto silver so it would save a step
I hadn't, but that's a clever idea! The OG electroless plating :) Will keep that in mind for future projects, being able to cover an entire surface with silver seems super useful
Crash structures;p Your channel is awesome:) Now you gave me an idea on how to fix an old auto lens that has nickel plated plastic reflector
Thank you algorithm, that's some legit interesting stuff.
I loved this video, the difference between a nasty nest of charcoal and a science fiction material is just a step!
would make a cool heat exchanger! What about ceramic saturated clear resin?
I wanna know more about the self-guiding resin. Seems like a lot of interesting stuff could be done with coherent light and a spatial modulator.
Straight up, Brother from another Mother.....
*@Breaking Taps*
10:00 -ish. Can you make the solution flow through the lattice structure? (just add some pump, or stirrer or something that makes the liquid move more)
I think that would solve the coating issue in the middle.
Amazing
I thought it was hard but damn thats genius
Would be interesting to see how these do in a sputtering deposition system.
Right away I'm jellus about your technicall pen.
cool. would these be better than the foam/ceramic bumper materials?
Most likely a bit late to the party (also new to the party, first video I've seen, instant sub!) but I've experimented some with electroplating 3D prints in the past, and got much better results by agigating the solution with a bubbler and periodically reversing the current flow - the idea is that this re-releases some of the ions back into solution near the model, and the added agitation of the liquid then helps them flow into the areas they wouldn't naturally flow toward if following the path of least resistance. It's still not electroless plating, but I've found it helps quite a bit when dealing with more complex geometries
try lost wax method. I think there's wax you can print. Also did you do the shear and modulus mechanical tests?
Wow man, your videos are absolutely amazing, I see huge potential in you!
Also, I see huge potential in this material for constructing miniature Aerospace projects!
True! Nickel is and gold is the only Quantum conductor, besides Diamond .only one thing left, the human Soul.Warning
You can fail on any Level. super kool.
Very cool! Commenting to help the algorithm
Coool subbed do more!
Interesting video. Found your channel a couple of days ago and have been binge watching your videos. Since you're messing with nickel sulphate solutions (bright nickel plating), try dichloromethane to dissolve the cured resin prints. I know it dissolves PTEG, just make sure to wear a mask and work in a well ventilated area. Personally i would try other organic solvents first. Another thing when you're testing an hypothesis make sure to use the least dangerous chemicals possible. Nickel sulphate is a carcinogen and copper sulphate is only toxic. If you need any advice (biochemist here) send me an email.
This would be a very interesting way to make regenerators for Sterling Engines.
Hey worst case scenario, those could be used for props in a movie about future spiders that have crazy looking eggs
Make two of them inside each other with minimal support, so that they interlock without touching, then use it for electrolysis or even an biophotossynthetic cell from algae with a minimal electrical bias to direct the voltage from one electrode to the other
They amplify it, essentially producing energy from photosynthesis.
And supercapacitors too, obviously. Even normal ones, where the electrolytes would be the third ring in this trefoil knot lattice
I think you can only make it better if you make it fractal in the size of the cells too, to the point capilarity would require you to suck up the electrolytes in.
You could even fit more of them in the same space by using more of them, a couple ones diagonally
At least with a cubic lattice it seems to work in my head
Maybe rods with paper as an insulator interlocked randomly wherever fits would work even better, specially if you can solder them in place to burn away the paper without two rods of the same electrode touching each other
Or just use them as insulators in the biophotocell or to hold the electrolytes
Except for reducing the weight, is there any other benefits burning out the plastic? I guess the overall strength would be higher in the parts before burning out, or?
Hey! What exactly was your process for burning out the PLA? Trying to replicate and keep damaging the copper itself. Thanks!
Based on earlier 'plating on plastic' technology you may be successful by 'etching the base plastic and use the old Sn/Pd ionic activation solution followed by an accelerator solution to produce a microscopic semi discontinuous coating of active Pd on the plastic surface. After rinsing the accelerator solution, transfer the 'activated' plastic part to an electroless nickel plating solution. The Pd coating should initiate electroless nickel plating on the surface. Conventional commercially available hypo-phosphite electroless nickel plating may give you enough thickness. As thickness increases, pores will close and etching away of the interior plastic maybe not possible. Additionally, increase in thickness will also result in the build up of internal stress in the electroless nickel coating and induce adhesion problems. Plating is an old 'black art science' that has very few practitioners.
There still may be some folks knowledgeable in the 'art' at McDermid Corp located in Waterbury, CT.
I hope you can get some electroless nickel plating solution! I'd love to see the results!
would it be better if you used a circulator (or even a magnetic stirring rod) in the electroplating solution?? Also, they make sacrificial dissolvable uv resins
I wonder if magnatron sputtering may be another method to coat the lattice before the dissolution of the poly?. not sure it will get all the bits though.
Do you think circulating the copper electroplating solution will plate the dencer lattice inside better than just letting it sit.
Would it be possible to use an array of hypodermic needles to circulated the electrolyte inside the dense lattice?
Is there an off-the-shelf product of the mentioned self-propagating photopolymer to buy for experimenting yet? Please let us know wich product is availabe. Or mabe a paper showing the chemical solution to make it by yourself? Would love to try out this polymer. Thanks for the video
Is Polysorbate 20 and Tween 20 the same? How much is needed when adding into the IPA and acrylic paint?
I think you could probably get much better results if you use a flow through electrolyte and a pulse plating power supply. And how you set that up is that you calculate your volume through rate as it flows through your target and you do a pulse once per target volume. The goal here is that you don't want to desaturate your solution. You don't have a charge propagation problem, you have an electrolyte desaturation problem. The surface charge is depleting the electrolyte in the core of your target. Charge stays in a dipole configuration. So so long as there's electrolytes in the core to balance the charge, the charge will stay in the core. But that depletes very rapidly. That's why you need a flow through cell. That means you need a pump, a diffuser, and some sort of waterfall tank.
Some thermosetting plastics can be carbonised in an inert atmosphere without distorting. If you can manage that then you remove one step and solve another problem while leaving a lightweight and very strong core that will compliment the plating in terms of their different tensile and compression strength characteristics. You may also want to look into plating solution flow and AC current, obviously it needs to be biased AC but the frequency and waveform shape, even their change over time, may make a difference. The electroforming literature does touch on this so it is worth reviewing it. Also look into catalytic graphitization, it may be that your carbonised form can be dipped in nickel chloride then reheated to graphetise it prior to plating which will make it both stronger and more conductive. Not sure how well that will work, you may get uncontrolled shrinking, in which case burying it in magnesium oxide powder during the bake may at least minimise distortion.
Thanks! Just gave me a ton of things to research, will look into all of this! I like the idea of just cabonizing in place, which unfortunately adds another reason that I need to get a controlled atmosphere furnace :) Or modify my furnace somehow... would probably need to weld up the shell so that it's somewhat air-tight. I'd also like a higher temp furnace too, hmm...
Cheers for the suggestions, will chase these down!
Have you tried the specific casting resins that are available? These are designed for burning / melting out like you wanted as far as I'm aware or am I missing something?
THIS IS INCREDIBLE! HOLY Crap.. You also sound like Ben From Applied Science. Which I guess is why you caught his attention. :D
Your dipping ink seems like it would be really useful for people who want to electroplate prints with lots of detail in them. Have you published the recipe somewhere?
I haven't, but only because I haven't done anything more precise than throwing some graphite powder into the IPA until it seemed good enough :) IPA + graphite +large squeeze of acrylic paint + drop of detergent seems to work pretty well, but I haven't dialed it in much more than that. There are some conductive sprays that I've switched to using recently though (Carbon and Nickel from MG Chemicals) which work _great_ and have better adhesion. More expensve but fewer failures