Toyota engineer here with a fun fact: The replaceable cam bearings you mentioned are Teflon coated hardened steel and are ranked A B C and D… The clearances of each are just SLIGHTLY different… Functionally there is no difference in the finished product… What they do take extremely precise measurements of the camshaft surfaces and match it with bearings for an optimal fit. Typically the thicker bearings are used more toward the end of life of a particular bit on the machining center that makes the cam. We are talking a TINY about.
Funniest part about this is I didn’t learn this fact AT Toyota. I was a machine builder for a long time before coming over to Toyota… They were our largest customer by far, we worked in a lot of powertrain plants all over the country… In this case it was a project for West Virginia powertrain plant and I designed various “line sequence control” type systems that instructed team members or automatic equipment which part to pick from a bin or what operation to perform based on data from a RFID tag or other source. One of them was these bearings for the head sub line. Incidentally the wrong bearings were put in the bins the by some complex chain of failure one time. It wasn’t caught until they had run like 1 quarter of engines (2 hours) which was a couple hundred or something at that particular line… All the engines passed the 3 min warm up booth instrumented test right in the middle of the ranges, no problem because the difference is minuscule but they elected to scrap all of them just in case lol Incidentally now I work as an engineer in the plastics shop of the the global flagship and one of the largest plants of any manufacturer in the world: TMMK in Georgetown Kentucky. We make the intake manifold for this engine which we ship to TMMWV (and also to our own powertrain plant)… I am not over that line however. Myself and 2 other engineers oversee processes on the IP (instrument panel, aka dashboard) line for Camry, Rav4 and Lexus es250 and es 350 (same parts) as well as past model service parts of prior generations and new model planning which is my current focus (exciting stuff coming lol)
This is why I read all of the comments. I did know about bearing sizes but it makes so much more sense than they are compensating for machine/tooling wear
By the way the intake cam on the hybrid version of this engine is actually worth quite a bit of money because they have huge lobes and what people tend to do is they take two intake cams from a hybrid 2ar slap them in a regular one and then tune appropriately
Knew what happened when I saw the water in the intake, saw a 2AR-FE out of a RAV4 some genius drove through floodwater that looked about the same. Thanks to Andy for donating this one for the video.
There is an unexplored back story here... whoever owned this car did something to the first engine, paid to have a replacement engine installed, then promptly tried to ford the Green River with it.
I have had 2 cars with this engine and neither one gave me a second's trouble through 200K miles on each. I can see why now. Simple robust design all around. As few chains as possible and the one chain used has as straight a load path as I've ever seen in a DOHC engine. Great engine. Thanks for the teardown and thanks to Andy and son!
I'm a body mechanic. Plus a life long car guy. I see a wide range of 4 cylinders on a yearly basis. We got one in that was hit hard in the back/side. So nothing to do with the fwd drive train in the 2015 rav 4. I was surprised by how bad the nvh on these engines were. If you tap the throttle while in park or neutral it will vibrate the shifter. In a automatic transmission! Compared to kia 2.0, jeep turbo 1.4, jeep turbo 2.0, fiat multi air 2.4, Ford ecoturd 2.0 and 2.5 I found the Toyota harsh, buzzy, and has a horrible exhaust sound. Driving that car was like going back in 4 cylinder time 3 decades to the 90s. I don't care how reliable these are I couldn't live with it every day.
@@beavistechrock Did you drive this write off...or one that had not been hit? Didi you try a second one just in case there was something not quite right about the first "good" one? A lot of money is spent by OEM to stop as much NVH as possible... if they were all this bad?????
@JohnSmith-pl2bk we had a 2017 rav 4 come in recently. Typical frt end hit. Replace fascia, left headlight, a few bezels, align it and ship it. It was a loaded model. Leather, 4x4/awd, all the power goodies. There was less vibration, and less noise with the windows up. But the basic character was the same. I kinda figured your same logic but reversed. For the most part toyota ppl are brand loyal. If they never drove anything else they wouldn't think anything of it. I've owned one 4 cylinder in my life and it was a 1995 quad 4 grand am automatic. It was last year for 2.3 displacement. First year for balance shafts. I bought cause I had no idea it was a 4 til I popped the hood. Idle was smooth, exhaust note was good. They did get kinda raspy above 5k rpm but a 7k redline was pretty impressive in 1995. I've got a 2005 vtec 3.5 pilot for a daily driver. For the winter months I have a 99 4.0 straight 6 grand cherokee. Both are super smooth. My point is the majority of ppl don't pay attention to the things I listed. As long as it drives without rattling apart it's fine. If you get a chance drive a 2018 to present jeep compass or renegade (both can be had in the high 20k low 30k range new) with the 2.4 multi air, the 1.4 turbo or the new 2.0 turbo compass it's a world of difference. One more thing I will cede is it was a 2015. A lot has changed since then.
I absolutely love mine. Just turned 100,000 and you could not tell the difference from the day I walked out of the dealership. Runs great. The only problem I have with the car is my hood latch is sticky from NEVER having to open it for repairs.
The hood needs to opened often for checking fluid levels. I get your trying to be clever, but it’s silly to use that excuse to never opening your engine compartment hood.
You should probably open the hood every week to check the oil….but that’s just me. At least once a week, maybe 2 times a month if you’re just way too busy.
I hear you there! I've had a couple things go on my engine... had to replace the battery, and had to replace the oil pressure switch (cut it started leaking).. aside from that, 151k miles (244k km) and the car is running perfect. Change the fluids regularly and this engine will last at least 400k miles I'm sure!
200,000 kms on mine since new. Recent oil pressure sending unit - $25 & a water pump - $500 .... that's it. Most reliable engine I've ever owned, hands down.
Not only hydro locked but in salt water. That was salt in the intake ports, we see it all the time in Florida especially after a hurricane or any other super high tide event.
As someone who learned to do mechanical work on my Dad's Caterpillar heavy equipment in the 1960's, I have done most of the mechanic work on my 4 kids cars up to and including engine swaps. One thing I have NEVER been able to get across to the female members of my family is to CHECK THE OIL!!. Your speedy engine tear-downs are very entertaining to me, and I really enjoy your struggles and comments when you encounter an "easy" yet unexpected problem like a stuck dipstick and pulling it out with a forklift. I hope you continue your channel for a long time, and that your business and UA-cam channel continues to prosper in spite of "Bidenomics". God Bless you from rain deprived Indianapolis, Indiana!
In Australia flooded roads are a fairly common occurrence and we are constantly told not to drive through floods. It's even more risky when the water is flowing across because you get washed away. You also don't know what is under the water and the road could be completely gone
Here in NZ we have a lot too . Not too long ago ,near where I live , an genius destroyed his brand new HSV V8 by going though a section of road that had only shallow water flowing over it . If he had slowed down a little he would have been OK
Just had an absolutely bad day at work. Came home and watched this... Feeling 100% better. Thanks Eric. Would love to see a Subaru EZ30/36 on here some day.
Toyota recently extended oil changes to 16,000 kms, about 10,000 miles. I took my car back to the dealership at 8,000 kms, about 5,000 miles for an oil change. They said, hey you don’t need to change it for another 8,000 kms. I told them to change it and I’ll do it every 8,000 kms. Based on my driving, it’s one extra oil change a year…..cheap insurance.
It may say that in the brochure but I just purchased a 2024 Toyota Camry SE and the free oil changes at the dealership are every 5000 miles through Toyota Care. Personally, I change my own oil every 3k miles.
2010 Camry owner here, 2AR-FE with 254K miles on it. Burns a quart of oil every 5K which is manageable. That oil filter is clearly aftermarket; OEM filters do not have the plastic caps on the top or bottom. Straight paper filter is best. Those disks at the end of the cams contain the VVTi stuff inside and could be worth selling as another user posted; the little piston spring inside the disc at the end of the cam weakens / gets gummed up over time which is why these engines rattle for a second or less after start-up. Thirdly, I can vouch for the seeping of oil from the engine block, though in my case my PCV valve (a pain to change on these engines) could be to blame. Last, even though most of the oil burning issues were with the 2AZ-FE there were some faulty piston oil control rings that made their way into the 2AR-FE engines. This is one engine where oil changes at 5K or less is ideal.
I bought a Toyota Certified Used (70k mi) 2012 Camry with the Toyota 2.5L 2AR-FE. changing oil & OEM filters every 5000 mi using Mob*1 5w20 Syn in the hot southwest. Motor Started burning at 140K and never got better. After watching Lake Sp**d and Valvo**ine tests on Restore & Protect product, at 209,000 miles I switched to it. I am happy to report upon the 1st 5000 miles using this, I did not have to add oil during the whole 5000k interval. I am truthful and tickled. I may go back to Mob*1 but will do a couple of future oil changes with Val Restore-Protect.
i live in Australia i had a 2ar-fe in a 2014 Camry it was a oil chewer i had to put 2 litres of oil in it each month and had a vvt noise on start up. But never had oil smoke out of the exhaust good reliable motor i had 250000km on it before i sold it.
Considering that I am seriously thinking of buying a new Toyota this coming week ( or at least, ordering one ) watching and listening to this video confirms what I have heard elsewhere, that Toyota engines are 'tough', therefore it helps my buying decision. Thanks for this.
All engines will eventually succumb to fatigue. You can increase its lifespan with shot peening by about 100% and cryogenic treat it but it can cost a pretty penny. Also, using the wrong viscosity can seriously damage an engine more so than skipping a service cycle. Coolant can also accumulate electrolytes and eat away at gaskets. Aged coil packs can cause knocking and scratch your liners. And doesn't matter how good an engine is, all the wiring and sensors will also eventually wear out. So there's no trouble-free car out there. Life's a gamble and all you can do is hope for the best.
@@hereb4theend Indeed. It is the plastic parts, electronics and sensors that die. I am afraid the auto industry is in for a tough time going forward. They have squeezed just about every last bit of power and economy out of the gasoline engine. Soon the junk yards are going to be full of these modern over engineered units
Had one of these in my 2010 Camry. Started burning oil around 160k, about a quart every 1k miles. The Car Care Nut has a video on these, and said they are developing a problem with the oil rings seizing due to getting gunked up from extended oil changes. The cylinder walls get worn, starts with oil burning and eventually leads to no compression. It’s a really good video to watch.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics did a video on one of the predecessors of this engine with that exact issue as well. Did an “in-car rebuild” where he took the pistons out one at a time and replaced the oil rings; he also did a little mod on the pistons to help reduce recurrence of the issue in the future. Was in a late 90s Prizm/Corolla if I recall correctly. I’m currently monitoring the oil consumption of our 2AR-FE Highlander with 180k, at about 1 qt per 1500 miles at the moment….
I had a 95 Integra GSR that did pretty much the same thing I think. It burnt oil like crazy pretty much the whole time I had the car, and literally dropped a cylinder while on my way to trade it in on another car. I was a kid and bought that car too quickly without checking it fir issues very well. That car was a POS.
@@sephiroth7818 ReALLY are you serious??? I do 12 000 miles on my Merc over 220000 miles and no trouble. Buy Japanese , pollute the World and do your sums on my oil changes vs yours. My German car is much cheaper to run and better for Planet Earth !!!!
@@Angel-rn2lqvalves, cranks, cams, rings, bearings. All can be ruined just by dropping or scratching them. Kinda crazy how precise these engines need to be
32:22 the 2AR-FE is a great engine if you change the oil at 3k to 4k miles every time. That timing chain will probably last to well over 400k miles. Side note: I own a 2AR-FE
Last week I paid $500 for a limo and found out the fee doesn't include a driver. I can't believe I spent all that money and have nothing to chauffeur it.
Thank you Eric for all you do for us viewers! From the traveling to buy most cores, sometimes they are so bad that there is nothing, or very little to sell when the teardown is complete. The late nights when you would rather be at home with the family, but you still have to clean up, and you still have to get the video edited and ready to post. I really enjoy the running gags, like fighting with dipsticks, tools with names like "blue", and your safety tub that you don when dealing with parts that go flying, never to be seen again. So thanks from myself and everyone else that enjoys and learns from these teardown videos. I really hope that your wife and kids understand the time spent away from home just for us. It is greatly appreciated...
A few months ago, i had the exact same problem with a customer's 2010 Camry. Watching your video was dejavu for me, down to the twisted and broken #1 rod! and hole on the engine block. Just like you, I diagnosed it to hydro locked situation. Just because I LIKE PROBLEMS, I did get it fixed quite inexpensively (they are NOT easy or cheap to find) and so far, customer tells me its running like new.
Great video Eric. Thanks Andy and son for your contribution of the engine. Nice piece of equipment. Too bad about losing the block. Keep up the great work Eric. 👍👍👍
Thanks Andy, for donating the engine. Yes, it did scream hydrolock very early on. I 'killed' my dad's car by driving it through a flood when I was a teenager. He never said a thing, just gave me 'that' look. Fortunately, as soon as it locked, the engine stalled, and I turned off the ignition, waded out (the water didn't even come to the door sill) and pushed it in neutral; the engine survived. I was very lucky. Not all hydrolocked engines implode or die. Park it up, and walk home is the lesson. For me that was a long walk of shame, in the pouring rain.
These always seemed like stout engines, nice to see their sensible and serviceable design; basically keep oil in and keep saltwater out and it seems like a good motor. Also I've always appreciated that these 2.5 Toyota I4s and the 2.4 liter 2AZ predecessors for being very easy to make sound really good! Some of the best sounding 4 cylinders and they're in camrys and scion xBs.
A big thank you to Andy and his son. Also, I actually owned a Plymouth Voyager with a 3.3L that hydro locked..,.and survived. I drove it for 3 years after that. My wife had the genius idea of using an absorbent twine we had to soak up the water after we cleared the bulk of it out. Another fine teardown Eric.👍👍
I have this engine in my RAV4 with 200,365 miles on it. It runs great. It's been well maintained with regular services. It needed a VVT-I cam gear replaced and a upper radiator hose fitting as well. No oil leaks and it uses hardly any oil.
Hi Eric... I'm not a mechanic, I'm one of those weekend, try to do it myself types. I've been watching your videos for about a year now and I think they're great! You've inspired me to want to try a tear down just for fun, but I don't really have the tools for it. Truck on, bro! These videos keep me sane.
I'm a member of Mensa so I go back to square and discern how the goofball ruined a perfectly good engine. I've watched all the episodes of Columbo. I've still got the sins of man etched upon my brow.
I look forward to this all week, it's like hanging out in the garage with a good buddy. Thanks for doing these every week. I enjoy them even when they're not shattered in a million pieces.
The main issue with these is the cold-start rattle and oil burning. Check the intake vvt gear to see if moves back and forth meaning the lock pin has seized inside its bore.
@@bradhaines3142 early 2ARs do still burn oil, much like the previous 2AZs. It’s never as bad as any 2AZ would get, but can still become cumbersome. The early ones also seem to develop head gasket leaks, much like the 2ZRs. After 2013, seems they fixed those issues for the 2AR. But the VVT-i death rattle still seems to be an issue through all of them.
And...Why u talk rubbish, i had never heared here in Europe not even someone, who reported Oil burning, not at all in the contrary in comparison with such crap like Ford, BMW, VW, Audi benz ect, those Toyota 2 AR FE ore 2 AR FXE are with far distance the best not oil consumpting engine ever at present, its yust a stupid myth that light tensioned or running piston ring ensembles does be obligated to consuming automatically much Oil. Thats matters not at all for Toyotas automatically but thats fully true for such pile of trash like Ford bmw and other German and European designed Cars and Trucks. The annoying start rattle i don't like either because it sounds not smooth in that second after start, thats right.
I'd say that engine has had the "Super Saver Rebuild" done. When you can't splurge for a proper water pump gasket, then your being way too tight with your money. I just rebuild my Honda engine about 10 months back. It's a '98 Accord F23A1, the 2.3L Vtec. Anyhow I spent about 1100 dollars on my rebuild parts, but I have a new motor that runs great, and is super reliable. I got a very nice set of Mahle pistons, OEM Honda Crank/Rod bearings and OEM timing kit, I got the oil pump from Hylift. I had the cylinder head built by Cylinder Head Service Inc out of Fairfield, Alabama. They also did some custom port polishing and upgraded valves and valve springs, and I had the block dipped and cleaned and tested. I've put about 16k miles on it since, it's my daily driver at the moment. Anyway I could have cheaped out on parts and spent 400 or 500 bucks, but I'm really not sure how great those chinese eBay rebuild kits really are.
Thank you for posting this excellent teardown. I do tell my office staff and family that I watch your weekly videos and I'm really careful to check my engine oil, get it changed every 3 months, and I totally refuse to drive through standing water. My car runs superbly thanks to your advice. 🙂
I've got about 4 or 5 people hooked on this channel. Several of my friends watch this channel with their young sons. Eric's sophomoric innuendos are just edgy enough to make a young teenager giggle but nothing bad enough that you have to talk to him about it afterwards.
@@bradhaines3142Toyota Recommends 10,000 miles oil changes. There's a known issue with the low tension rings getting sludged so 3-5,000 intervals is much better.
Thanks Andy & Son! Toyota engines fail so neatly! Even when a rod is blowing holes in the block! There's just a few chunks of metal in the crankcase, and that's about it.
Thanks for the satisfying teardown. First time I saw a Toyota engine being torn apart.The piston and rods look pretty sturdier compared to other engines. Very clean engine layout. Scary to see the damage done by hydro lock but the damage was well contained causing minimum damage to other engine components.
2ARs are extremely easy to work on in camry's usually in rav4s as well althought the 4x4 ones can complicated it. you can even reseal timing covers with the motor still installed!
Oh yea...plenty of room. Not a hard motor at all to work on, and quite tough. They've seen their fair share of cam gear replacements due to cold start rattle, and plenty of water pump replacements though.
I really appreciate your engine tear downs, all of them ! I appreciate that you don't use foul language, and limit your references of "what she said" ! It occurred to me, when you were examining the oil filter, on the shiny table top- that you are like a medical examiner, doing an autopsy-with "fluids" spilling on the table. Thank you !!
New Subscriber from Nova Scotia, Canada…really enjoyed watching the tear down on this engine as I own a 2011 RAV4 with the 2AR-FE engine. Very religious about maintenance and oil changes with my vehicle and so far it has been flawless. Thanks Eric, hope I never have to see mine taken apart…LOL! Cheers MikeR. PS. Oh yeah, if you need to go into deep water…use a boat, avoid the hydro lock.
Love your videos! Still hoping you can tear down a 1.8 out of a 2016 Chevy Sonic, and a 2.4 SRT4 engine out of a 2003 PT Cruiser GT that has the aluminum intake setup on it.
Thanks Andy and son for providing this engine. Have the same engine in my Camry with 120K miles and have never had an issue so far. Interesting to see what was inside.
Haha, I actually replaced a 2.5 engine on a Camry last year after hurricane Ian with this exact failure mode; large puddles everywhere, owner decides the vehicle is a submarine, engine hydrolocked. After emptying the combustion chamer out via the spark plug holes, the car started but ran rough, right up until we went for a test drive, and the engine hydrolocked again. That snail shaped intake holds A LOT of water... Otherwise a supremely solid dependable motor. Agreed on just how reliable and trouble free they are, a truly well engineered piece of equipment.
That definitely looked like a re manufactured engine to me, I know of a few places that spray paint them in a colour that shows who made them. I also lolled when you said people in comments would be saying from the beginning it was a classic hydro lock, it was that obvious just from the salts and corrosion in the intake ports.
Ahh, the VVT solenoids. TIGHT. They can stay in the VC but I did swap them when I did my sister's engine. I was surprised at the tight fit and used some heat to make it go well.
That is actually a nice looking designed motor. Even though this is about a breakdown of a broken motor, I learned a lot about just the design of this motor.
Engine, not motor. An Engine runs on combustion, while a motor runs on electricity. That's why I.C.E. means "Internal Combustion Engine". Electric appliances like Tesla use electric drive motors.
@@TreyDarkis nerd? No, it's proper terminology. Again, an engine runs off combustion, while a motor is electric. 🤷 Now you've learned something new, no need to be a dick because you had no clue.
@@demcomp your arguing semantics, buddy. Anybody who’s not a dick knows what he meant and we aren’t pointing it out because it’s not important. Your comment has annoying and know-it-all written all over it pal! Very condescending
Not even boat motors like to have water shoved through their intakes. Great video! Great advice about not driving through standing water too. Listen to Jim Cantore, "turn around and don't drown"... your Toyota 2AR-FE. 😉
How to tell if the engine is not a reman from Toyota is that new engine front timing cover has grey RTV gasket. Reman are black RTV gasket. I know that these are done that way but to know if I did it and to make sure that no one tries to screw me over. I use orange/red RTV gasket.
The water pump is definitely a common failure point on older vehicles 2000-2013, honestly any engine leaks because it's usually a rubber gasket that hardens up or the paper gasket like you saw on this 2AR-FE. But as long as Toyota keeps those gaskets as the usual and those 2AR-FE cam gears and piston rings, I'll be a happily paid tech at the end of the day.
I love these videos. I really liked the 3.4L 5VZ-FE Toyota engine you tore down. It appeared to be a hydro lock as well. Those engines are just about bullet proof. Great video Sir.
Problems I've seen on this engine model: Cam phasers noisy or failed (kinda rare but happens). Hydraulic chain tensioner that bleeds out after parked and gets noisy during start up until it fills up again. Balancer cassette unit with stripped gear's teeth. I think that's about it. 👌🙂
the one in my old buddies camry seemed indestructable. multiple 100+mph runs (and jumps) it still ran like a top. thing sounded fair for what it was and the vvti is pretty cool too if ya can figure it out. good times.
Looks like there's a whole load of candidates available in New York today. From what I saw on videos yesterday people just love to drive too fast in water and get that bow wave up the the engine air intake just under the hood lip.
Tarp tightly strapped down across the whole front of the car up the hood and down to the undertray... Drive to create the bow wave... that creates a hole in the water that extends to the engine area and allows the engine to work and also suck in air from wherever it can. Not guaranteed...but if needs must and you are going to drown if you stay on the river bed???
Nice! Actually just started tearing down a 2AZ-FE for a rebuild. You can clearly tell this is an iteration of the 2AZ, both very similar and indeed very simple to work on.
Thanks Andy ! I enjoy my Saturday night dinners while you serve dessert.....wonderful. If you want to take it to the next stage, take that motor, throw a new rod and piston in it and get it to run ! I had an uncle who replaced a piston on his 58 Chevy right in the street, replaced it and drove it back home....that was impressive, I was only about 10, but I remember him under the car, very methodical,like you, and he replaced the offending parts.
You know cletus mcfarland sometimes blow up crown vic engines on a dyno maybe you can do one on your show here ...they can feed em nitrous till they litteray denote in to orbit and would be a interesting autopsy inner maliance could be a fun break down
I have a 2017 Rav4 Limited with 90k and the only issues I have is the timing chain rattles every morning which Toyota says is normal and the timing cover has oil seepage. Oil changes every 5k and filters when needed. It runs great and doesn't burn a drop of oil ! The injectors need a bottle of additive every oil change but other than that it's great.
I got a modded Camry with this engine, they can handle some power and are super easy to mod. I'm currently at 215whp with a 1ar crank, Frankenstein intake manifold, and cold air, and exhaust, been wanting to do forced induction on it but don't got the funds
Super fascinating and it is pretty clear that all (at least in US) around 2008 auto manufacturers were forced to offer for high performance gas engines either VVT, DOD or some 'ticking time bomb' add on. And Honda Toyota were no longer immune. It is evident after watching your earlier Corvette 'LT' (now I guess can apply to any GM motor as in past was only to apply to 5.7 liter engines had to apply DOD. Prior to 2008 or so it was clear a designated 'performance' car by auto maker was exempt from CAFE to which other lines had to pick up MPG/Emissions slack. I feel for people with VVT or DOD as you can be on top of maintenance but when unspent fuel on non-active cylinders or blow by as a result of a made to fail solenoid or delicate spring on a roller is troubling for owners of these cars. Also troubling is knowing the GM3800 was used as the SLEV benchmark (EGR has no flow coming from factory) and having things like Oxygen Sensor 'trouble' codes remain on for over 100k miles on my vehicle which cuz its pushrod never had any affect, and when other comaprable engines were offered i.e. GM 3.6 or some Northstar V8, I come to find out GM had to underreport my 3800 spec which is unfortunate.
Thank you Andy and son. I've had to replace a couple of these due to external damage. Specifically a large rock through the oil pan at speed. (one customer claimed he had hit a rabbit) Finding a motor from our fleet was easy since they get wrecked more often than they get blown up.
Wow!!! This is crazy... I have a '13 tC with that engine.. I baby the hell out of it with oil changes every 6000-8000km.. religiously! Every year it gets between 3 and 4 oil changes (I put in a lot of mileage with longish commutes).. seeing one toasted blows my mind.. these engines are insanely reliable! Just take care of them people, and it can near on run forever!
I wanna say the oil consumption is because of bad PCV valves. I've replaced one before, at my old shop. I'll never forget when I drove a Camry with one of these 3 years ago and I heard the thing gargling while turning.
I absolutely love the architecture of these engines. I really feel like Toyota attempted to create a million mile engine. The oiling system is insane - multiple piston squirters, and the valve cover that actively lubricates each cam follower. I did have one come in with a broken valve spring, though. Very rare on these engines.
@@victordobin5918 I said I was a Toyota engineer but not the designer of this specific engine. I work in plastics… Closest we come to powertrain is intake manifold but I am over new model planning for some instrument panel lines and the new model in question is an electric car… So uh… I have no idea 🤷♂️ What is this issue with the design?
Yes, Aisin water pumps and Toyota (made by Aisin) water pumps have a metal gaskets and I noticed the coolant was also wrong. It is usually pink coolant.
Glad we could help out, was definitely an interesting teardown.
Thank you Sir
Thanks bud.
Thanks!
Thanks man
Andy! Thanks, man.
It is always a pleassure to see Adam Sandler working on engines.
that's 'discount' adam sandler to you
Toyota engineer here with a fun fact: The replaceable cam bearings you mentioned are Teflon coated hardened steel and are ranked A B C and D… The clearances of each are just SLIGHTLY different… Functionally there is no difference in the finished product… What they do take extremely precise measurements of the camshaft surfaces and match it with bearings for an optimal fit. Typically the thicker bearings are used more toward the end of life of a particular bit on the machining center that makes the cam. We are talking a TINY about.
Funniest part about this is I didn’t learn this fact AT Toyota. I was a machine builder for a long time before coming over to Toyota… They were our largest customer by far, we worked in a lot of powertrain plants all over the country… In this case it was a project for West Virginia powertrain plant and I designed various “line sequence control” type systems that instructed team members or automatic equipment which part to pick from a bin or what operation to perform based on data from a RFID tag or other source. One of them was these bearings for the head sub line. Incidentally the wrong bearings were put in the bins the by some complex chain of failure one time. It wasn’t caught until they had run like 1 quarter of engines (2 hours) which was a couple hundred or something at that particular line… All the engines passed the 3 min warm up booth instrumented test right in the middle of the ranges, no problem because the difference is minuscule but they elected to scrap all of them just in case lol
Incidentally now I work as an engineer in the plastics shop of the the global flagship and one of the largest plants of any manufacturer in the world: TMMK in Georgetown Kentucky. We make the intake manifold for this engine which we ship to TMMWV (and also to our own powertrain plant)… I am not over that line however. Myself and 2 other engineers oversee processes on the IP (instrument panel, aka dashboard) line for Camry, Rav4 and Lexus es250 and es 350 (same parts) as well as past model service parts of prior generations and new model planning which is my current focus (exciting stuff coming lol)
This is why I read all of the comments. I did know about bearing sizes but it makes so much more sense than they are compensating for machine/tooling wear
that is some crazy tight tollerences, when you are compensating for the tool wear.
18:04 should definitely be a rubber gasket with a pump that shape. Not using one is how you end up with a bunch of little water pumps running around.
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I was expecting the water pump channels to be blurred out...
And keeping all those little water pumps fed and... watered... is expensive too!
By the way the intake cam on the hybrid version of this engine is actually worth quite a bit of money because they have huge lobes and what people tend to do is they take two intake cams from a hybrid 2ar slap them in a regular one and then tune appropriately
Knew what happened when I saw the water in the intake, saw a 2AR-FE out of a RAV4 some genius drove through floodwater that looked about the same. Thanks to Andy for donating this one for the video.
find moose and squirrel
There is an unexplored back story here... whoever owned this car did something to the first engine, paid to have a replacement engine installed, then promptly tried to ford the Green River with it.
Excuses excuses for Jap Crap motors
Yeah, that Green River is a killer
I have had 2 cars with this engine and neither one gave me a second's trouble through 200K miles on each. I can see why now. Simple robust design all around. As few chains as possible and the one chain used has as straight a load path as I've ever seen in a DOHC engine. Great engine. Thanks for the teardown and thanks to Andy and son!
I also like the gear driven balance casette. Not seen that before. Much better than rubber belts.
@@john1703
Only thing to make it perfect would be a gear drive to the DOHC....and OEM water repellent coating in the air intake system😁😁
I'm a body mechanic. Plus a life long car guy. I see a wide range of 4 cylinders on a yearly basis. We got one in that was hit hard in the back/side. So nothing to do with the fwd drive train in the 2015 rav 4. I was surprised by how bad the nvh on these engines were. If you tap the throttle while in park or neutral it will vibrate the shifter. In a automatic transmission! Compared to kia 2.0, jeep turbo 1.4, jeep turbo 2.0, fiat multi air 2.4, Ford ecoturd 2.0 and 2.5 I found the Toyota harsh, buzzy, and has a horrible exhaust sound. Driving that car was like going back in 4 cylinder time 3 decades to the 90s. I don't care how reliable these are I couldn't live with it every day.
@@beavistechrock
Did you drive this write off...or one that had not been hit?
Didi you try a second one just in case there was something not quite right about the first "good" one?
A lot of money is spent by OEM to stop as much NVH as possible...
if they were all this bad?????
@JohnSmith-pl2bk we had a 2017 rav 4 come in recently. Typical frt end hit. Replace fascia, left headlight, a few bezels, align it and ship it. It was a loaded model. Leather, 4x4/awd, all the power goodies. There was less vibration, and less noise with the windows up. But the basic character was the same. I kinda figured your same logic but reversed. For the most part toyota ppl are brand loyal. If they never drove anything else they wouldn't think anything of it. I've owned one 4 cylinder in my life and it was a 1995 quad 4 grand am automatic. It was last year for 2.3 displacement. First year for balance shafts. I bought cause I had no idea it was a 4 til I popped the hood. Idle was smooth, exhaust note was good. They did get kinda raspy above 5k rpm but a 7k redline was pretty impressive in 1995. I've got a 2005 vtec 3.5 pilot for a daily driver. For the winter months I have a 99 4.0 straight 6 grand cherokee. Both are super smooth. My point is the majority of ppl don't pay attention to the things I listed. As long as it drives without rattling apart it's fine. If you get a chance drive a 2018 to present jeep compass or renegade (both can be had in the high 20k low 30k range new) with the 2.4 multi air, the 1.4 turbo or the new 2.0 turbo compass it's a world of difference. One more thing I will cede is it was a 2015. A lot has changed since then.
Thank you, Andy, and Son for this week's tear down piece... Gotta love Hydrolocks, anyway Thank you again Eric for another great Saturday night...
I absolutely love mine. Just turned 100,000 and you could not tell the difference from the day I walked out of the dealership. Runs great. The only problem I have with the car is my hood latch is sticky from NEVER having to open it for repairs.
The hood needs to opened often for checking fluid levels.
I get your trying to be clever, but it’s silly to use that excuse to never opening your engine compartment hood.
You should probably open the hood every week to check the oil….but that’s just me. At least once a week, maybe 2 times a month if you’re just way too busy.
I did not know I had to be that specific. Yes the fluids are checked@@metalted6128 😅 It was sarcasm because nothing breaks.
@@metalted6128
r/whoosh....
I hear you there! I've had a couple things go on my engine... had to replace the battery, and had to replace the oil pressure switch (cut it started leaking).. aside from that, 151k miles (244k km) and the car is running perfect.
Change the fluids regularly and this engine will last at least 400k miles I'm sure!
Looks like a well engineered engine with no self-imposed over-complications.
They're reliable as hell. Early water pump failure and very minor oil burning (not as bad as the 2AZ-FE's) are the only issues I am aware of
200,000 kms on mine since new. Recent oil pressure sending unit - $25 & a water pump - $500 .... that's it. Most reliable engine I've ever owned, hands down.
Not only hydro locked but in salt water. That was salt in the intake ports, we see it all the time in Florida especially after a hurricane or any other super high tide event.
Good to know. Thanks!
As someone who learned to do mechanical work on my Dad's Caterpillar heavy equipment in the 1960's, I have done most of the mechanic work on my 4 kids cars up to and including engine swaps. One thing I have NEVER been able to get across to the female members of my family is to CHECK THE OIL!!.
Your speedy engine tear-downs are very entertaining to me, and I really enjoy your struggles and comments when you encounter an "easy" yet unexpected problem like a stuck dipstick and pulling it out with a forklift. I hope you continue your channel for a long time, and that your business and UA-cam channel continues to prosper in spite of "Bidenomics". God Bless you from rain deprived Indianapolis, Indiana!
Girls just want to have fun!
In Australia flooded roads are a fairly common occurrence and we are constantly told not to drive through floods. It's even more risky when the water is flowing across because you get washed away. You also don't know what is under the water and the road could be completely gone
Here in NZ we have a lot too . Not too long ago ,near where I live , an genius destroyed his brand new HSV V8 by going though a section of road that had only shallow water flowing over it . If he had slowed down a little he would have been OK
Just had an absolutely bad day at work. Came home and watched this... Feeling 100% better. Thanks Eric. Would love to see a Subaru EZ30/36 on here some day.
I second the Subaru flat 6! May be tough finding one though... They're uncommon and don't fail often.
They're super reliable. Might be a tough find! Subaru's best engine IMO.
Just retire and pay less tax.
@@d47000they are very unreliable
@@anthonyr5869Have you ever owned one?
WE WANT MALICE! WE WANT MALICE!
YES, WE DEMAND MALICE
Eric treating us like we are in the Roman Coliseum....and need to see some gory carnage.
"Are you not entertained??"
WHEN DO WE WANT IT? NOW!
@@christopherweise438 Yes I am! Thanks @I Do Cars Eric.
@@allenl9031 - Anybody with an Atlanta Flames logo is ok in my book. Makes me miss my Minnesota North Stars.
Toyota recently extended oil changes to 16,000 kms, about 10,000 miles. I took my car back to the dealership at 8,000 kms, about 5,000 miles for an oil change. They said, hey you don’t need to change it for another 8,000 kms. I told them to change it and I’ll do it every 8,000 kms. Based on my driving, it’s one extra oil change a year…..cheap insurance.
😮Oil is Cheap, Engines,
Not So Much😢
It may say that in the brochure but I just purchased a 2024 Toyota Camry SE and the free oil changes at the dealership are every 5000 miles through Toyota Care. Personally, I change my own oil every 3k miles.
2010 Camry owner here, 2AR-FE with 254K miles on it. Burns a quart of oil every 5K which is manageable. That oil filter is clearly aftermarket; OEM filters do not have the plastic caps on the top or bottom. Straight paper filter is best. Those disks at the end of the cams contain the VVTi stuff inside and could be worth selling as another user posted; the little piston spring inside the disc at the end of the cam weakens / gets gummed up over time which is why these engines rattle for a second or less after start-up. Thirdly, I can vouch for the seeping of oil from the engine block, though in my case my PCV valve (a pain to change on these engines) could be to blame. Last, even though most of the oil burning issues were with the 2AZ-FE there were some faulty piston oil control rings that made their way into the 2AR-FE engines. This is one engine where oil changes at 5K or less is ideal.
Well said. Very well said!!!
pcv is a scam, have this end on '14 scion tc. just plug the pcv intake manifold, crankcase has enough to breathe with the breather hose
I bought a Toyota Certified Used (70k mi) 2012 Camry with the Toyota 2.5L 2AR-FE. changing oil & OEM filters every 5000 mi using Mob*1 5w20 Syn in the hot southwest. Motor Started burning at 140K and never got better. After watching Lake Sp**d and Valvo**ine tests on Restore & Protect product, at 209,000 miles I switched to it. I am happy to report upon the 1st 5000 miles using this, I did not have to add oil during the whole 5000k interval. I am truthful and tickled. I may go back to Mob*1 but will do a couple of future oil changes with Val Restore-Protect.
i live in Australia i had a 2ar-fe in a 2014 Camry it was a oil chewer i had to put 2 litres of oil in it each month and had a vvt noise on start up. But never had oil smoke out of the exhaust good reliable motor i had 250000km on it before i sold it.
Thank you Andy and son for the subject of todays video!
Considering that I am seriously thinking of buying a new Toyota this coming week ( or at least, ordering one ) watching and listening to this video confirms what I have heard elsewhere, that Toyota engines are 'tough', therefore it helps my buying decision.
Thanks for this.
They used to be better but I tell u what if I had to buy a new car right now in this day and age it would still be a Toyota
They're not dumbass-proof (as Eric always says check your damn oil) but they're as close as you can get.
All engines will eventually succumb to fatigue. You can increase its lifespan with shot peening by about 100% and cryogenic treat it but it can cost a pretty penny. Also, using the wrong viscosity can seriously damage an engine more so than skipping a service cycle. Coolant can also accumulate electrolytes and eat away at gaskets. Aged coil packs can cause knocking and scratch your liners. And doesn't matter how good an engine is, all the wiring and sensors will also eventually wear out. So there's no trouble-free car out there. Life's a gamble and all you can do is hope for the best.
@@hereb4theend Indeed. It is the plastic parts, electronics and sensors that die. I am afraid the auto industry is in for a tough time going forward. They have squeezed just about every last bit of power and economy out of the gasoline engine. Soon the junk yards are going to be full of these modern over engineered units
Had one of these in my 2010 Camry. Started burning oil around 160k, about a quart every 1k miles. The Car Care Nut has a video on these, and said they are developing a problem with the oil rings seizing due to getting gunked up from extended oil changes. The cylinder walls get worn, starts with oil burning and eventually leads to no compression. It’s a really good video to watch.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics did a video on one of the predecessors of this engine with that exact issue as well. Did an “in-car rebuild” where he took the pistons out one at a time and replaced the oil rings; he also did a little mod on the pistons to help reduce recurrence of the issue in the future. Was in a late 90s Prizm/Corolla if I recall correctly. I’m currently monitoring the oil consumption of our 2AR-FE Highlander with 180k, at about 1 qt per 1500 miles at the moment….
The Car Care Nut is a clueless fool.
I had a 95 Integra GSR that did pretty much the same thing I think. It burnt oil like crazy pretty much the whole time I had the car, and literally dropped a cylinder while on my way to trade it in on another car. I was a kid and bought that car too quickly without checking it fir issues very well. That car was a POS.
It's because people are letting the oil changes go out to 10k miles before changing. This engine needs it done every 3k miles.
@@sephiroth7818 ReALLY are you serious??? I do 12 000 miles on my Merc over 220000 miles and no trouble. Buy Japanese , pollute the World and do your sums on my oil changes vs yours. My German car is much cheaper to run and better for Planet Earth !!!!
Why do the chain guides get so little respect!? Love how they shatter with a good throw! Every Saturday needs a good teardown.
its a running joke. Not supposed to buy used timing guides, chains, or water pumps. Better off buying new anyways.
Crazy how something so important can be so weak also
@@Angel-rn2lqvalves, cranks, cams, rings, bearings. All can be ruined just by dropping or scratching them. Kinda crazy how precise these engines need to be
@@mattb.2359 my only prob with that: every single running engine out there has used timing guides, chains, pumps, tensioners, etc.
why do Toyota chain guides show so little wear, but Ford and GM guides fall apart inside the engines?
I hope you kept the bolts to make other cars more reliable.
32:22 the 2AR-FE is a great engine if you change the oil at 3k to 4k miles every time. That timing chain will probably last to well over 400k miles.
Side note: I own a 2AR-FE
Last week I paid $500 for a limo and found out the fee doesn't include a driver.
I can't believe I spent all that money and have nothing to chauffeur it.
🤦🤣🤣
boooooooooo... hahaha
Maybe it's self driving? Have you read through the users manual?
Ayy lmao
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you Eric for all you do for us viewers! From the traveling to buy most cores, sometimes they are so bad that there is nothing, or very little to sell when the teardown is complete. The late nights when you would rather be at home with the family, but you still have to clean up, and you still have to get the video edited and ready to post.
I really enjoy the running gags, like fighting with dipsticks, tools with names like "blue", and your safety tub that you don when dealing with parts that go flying, never to be seen again.
So thanks from myself and everyone else that enjoys and learns from these teardown videos. I really hope that your wife and kids understand the time spent away from home just for us. It is greatly appreciated...
Thank-you Andy & Son.
A few months ago, i had the exact same problem with a customer's 2010 Camry. Watching your video was dejavu for me, down to the twisted and broken #1 rod! and hole on the engine block. Just like you, I diagnosed it to hydro locked situation. Just because I LIKE PROBLEMS, I did get it fixed quite inexpensively (they are NOT easy or cheap to find) and so far, customer tells me its running like new.
Great video Eric. Thanks Andy and son for your contribution of the engine. Nice piece of equipment. Too bad about losing the block. Keep up the great work Eric. 👍👍👍
Thanks Andy, for donating the engine. Yes, it did scream hydrolock very early on. I 'killed' my dad's car by driving it through a flood when I was a teenager. He never said a thing, just gave me 'that' look. Fortunately, as soon as it locked, the engine stalled, and I turned off the ignition, waded out (the water didn't even come to the door sill) and pushed it in neutral; the engine survived. I was very lucky. Not all hydrolocked engines implode or die. Park it up, and walk home is the lesson. For me that was a long walk of shame, in the pouring rain.
Time to grab a cigar and a drink and tune into Saturday evening at Eric’s! It’s amazing how much I’ve learnt from your videos sir.
These always seemed like stout engines, nice to see their sensible and serviceable design; basically keep oil in and keep saltwater out and it seems like a good motor. Also I've always appreciated that these 2.5 Toyota I4s and the 2.4 liter 2AZ predecessors for being very easy to make sound really good! Some of the best sounding 4 cylinders and they're in camrys and scion xBs.
A big thank you to Andy and his son. Also, I actually owned a Plymouth Voyager with a 3.3L that hydro locked..,.and survived. I drove it for 3 years after that. My wife had the genius idea of using an absorbent twine we had to soak up the water after we cleared the bulk of it out. Another fine teardown Eric.👍👍
I have this engine in my RAV4 with 200,365 miles on it. It runs great. It's been well maintained with regular services. It needed a VVT-I cam gear replaced and a upper radiator hose fitting as well. No oil leaks and it uses hardly any oil.
Yea that’s pretty much one of the most reliable 4s ever made. Glad you were able to find one.
Hi Eric... I'm not a mechanic, I'm one of those weekend, try to do it myself types. I've been watching your videos for about a year now and I think they're great! You've inspired me to want to try a tear down just for fun, but I don't really have the tools for it. Truck on, bro! These videos keep me sane.
I'm a member of Mensa so I go back to square and discern how the goofball ruined a perfectly good engine. I've watched all the episodes of Columbo. I've still got the sins of man etched upon my brow.
I look forward to this all week, it's like hanging out in the garage with a good buddy. Thanks for doing these every week. I enjoy them even when they're not shattered in a million pieces.
The main issue with these is the cold-start rattle and oil burning. Check the intake vvt gear to see if moves back and forth meaning the lock pin has seized inside its bore.
oil burning is an old problem from previous engines. these are just rattley out the factory
@@bradhaines3142 early 2ARs do still burn oil, much like the previous 2AZs. It’s never as bad as any 2AZ would get, but can still become cumbersome. The early ones also seem to develop head gasket leaks, much like the 2ZRs. After 2013, seems they fixed those issues for the 2AR. But the VVT-i death rattle still seems to be an issue through all of them.
For example, the 2 AR FXE and and not far away the 2 AR FE is one of the world's best best engines who been ever made.
Regards Jay
And...Why u talk rubbish, i had never heared here in Europe not even someone, who reported Oil burning, not at all in the contrary in comparison with such crap like Ford, BMW, VW, Audi benz ect, those Toyota 2 AR FE ore 2 AR FXE are with far distance the best not oil consumpting engine ever at present, its yust a stupid myth that light tensioned or running piston ring ensembles does be obligated to consuming automatically much Oil.
Thats matters not at all for Toyotas automatically but thats fully true for such pile of trash like Ford bmw and other German and European designed Cars and Trucks. The annoying start rattle i don't like either because it sounds not smooth in that second after start, thats right.
Like i said
I'd say that engine has had the "Super Saver Rebuild" done. When you can't splurge for a proper water pump gasket, then your being way too tight with your money. I just rebuild my Honda engine about 10 months back. It's a '98 Accord F23A1, the 2.3L Vtec. Anyhow I spent about 1100 dollars on my rebuild parts, but I have a new motor that runs great, and is super reliable. I got a very nice set of Mahle pistons, OEM Honda Crank/Rod bearings and OEM timing kit, I got the oil pump from Hylift. I had the cylinder head built by Cylinder Head Service Inc out of Fairfield, Alabama. They also did some custom port polishing and upgraded valves and valve springs, and I had the block dipped and cleaned and tested. I've put about 16k miles on it since, it's my daily driver at the moment. Anyway I could have cheaped out on parts and spent 400 or 500 bucks, but I'm really not sure how great those chinese eBay rebuild kits really are.
Thank you for posting this excellent teardown. I do tell my office staff and family that I watch your weekly videos and I'm really careful to check my engine oil, get it changed every 3 months, and I totally refuse to drive through standing water. My car runs superbly thanks to your advice. 🙂
Every three months could be a tad excessive, but at least your engine won't have any trouble with sludge or internal varnish. 😊
@@jochenstacker7448
Depends if he rakes up 5000 miles in 3 months or if the engine is idled in traffic for an hour each way each day?
I've got about 4 or 5 people hooked on this channel. Several of my friends watch this channel with their young sons. Eric's sophomoric innuendos are just edgy enough to make a young teenager giggle but nothing bad enough that you have to talk to him about it afterwards.
thank you andy for the awesome carnage!!!
Man, my 2017 2AR-FE has zero leaks. Oil changed every 3 - 5000 miles. Currently at 84500 miles
thats almost wasteful its too often. more like 5-7500 is most realistic.
@@bradhaines3142 you change when you want to, I’ll change when I want to and we’ll both be happy
@@bradhaines3142
Depends if he rakes up 5000 miles in 3 months or if the engine is idled in traffic for an hour each way each day?
@@bradhaines3142Toyota Recommends 10,000 miles oil changes. There's a known issue with the low tension rings getting sludged so 3-5,000 intervals is much better.
I'd do the same thing, I'd rather waste oil (which can be recycled) and have the insides be clean than take a chance with sludge. :)
Thanks Andy & Son!
Toyota engines fail so neatly! Even when a rod is blowing holes in the block! There's just a few chunks of metal in the crankcase, and that's about it.
Thanks for the satisfying teardown. First time I saw a Toyota engine being torn apart.The piston and rods look pretty sturdier compared to other engines. Very clean engine layout.
Scary to see the damage done by hydro lock but the damage was well contained causing minimum damage to other engine components.
2ARs are extremely easy to work on in camry's usually in rav4s as well althought the 4x4 ones can complicated it. you can even reseal timing covers with the motor still installed!
Oh yea...plenty of room. Not a hard motor at all to work on, and quite tough. They've seen their fair share of cam gear replacements due to cold start rattle, and plenty of water pump replacements though.
I'm looking to do the cam phasers soon on my wife's rav4. I've noticed a little rattle. Never had to do a water pump yet.
I really appreciate your engine tear downs, all of them !
I appreciate that you don't use foul language, and limit your references of "what she said" !
It occurred to me, when you were examining the oil filter, on the shiny table top- that you are like a medical examiner, doing an autopsy-with "fluids" spilling on the table. Thank you !!
New Subscriber from Nova Scotia, Canada…really enjoyed watching the tear down on this engine as I own a 2011 RAV4 with the 2AR-FE engine. Very religious about maintenance and oil changes with my vehicle and so far it has been flawless. Thanks Eric, hope I never have to see mine taken apart…LOL! Cheers MikeR. PS. Oh yeah, if you need to go into deep water…use a boat, avoid the hydro lock.
Thank you Eric for my Saturday night entertainment, and thanks to Andy and son for providing the engine.
Love your videos! Still hoping you can tear down a 1.8 out of a 2016 Chevy Sonic, and a 2.4 SRT4 engine out of a 2003 PT Cruiser GT that has the aluminum intake setup on it.
Is the 1.8 the Opel engine?
My 2015 Camry has the 2AR-FE. 166k miles. oil changes every 4-5k miles. Doesnt burn a drop of oil.
Thanks Andy and Son, now I know how my camry 2.5l goes together, or I mean comes apart. Great teardown today !
Thanks Andy and son for providing this engine. Have the same engine in my Camry with 120K miles and have never had an issue so far. Interesting to see what was inside.
Thanks Andy!!! and his son.
My wife's RAV 4 has 130 000 plus kms and engine is just perfect. Very reliable.
I have one in my 2014 Camry. The only issue I had was that the water pump started going out at 120k. No leaks or anything at 180k.
Haha, I actually replaced a 2.5 engine on a Camry last year after hurricane Ian with this exact failure mode; large puddles everywhere, owner decides the vehicle is a submarine, engine hydrolocked. After emptying the combustion chamer out via the spark plug holes, the car started but ran rough, right up until we went for a test drive, and the engine hydrolocked again. That snail shaped intake holds A LOT of water...
Otherwise a supremely solid dependable motor. Agreed on just how reliable and trouble free they are, a truly well engineered piece of equipment.
That definitely looked like a re manufactured engine to me, I know of a few places that spray paint them in a colour that shows who made them. I also lolled when you said people in comments would be saying from the beginning it was a classic hydro lock, it was that obvious just from the salts and corrosion in the intake ports.
Ahh, the VVT solenoids. TIGHT. They can stay in the VC but I did swap them when I did my sister's engine. I was surprised at the tight fit and used some heat to make it go well.
That is actually a nice looking designed motor. Even though this is about a breakdown of a broken motor, I learned a lot about just the design of this motor.
Engine, not motor.
An Engine runs on combustion, while a motor runs on electricity.
That's why I.C.E. means "Internal Combustion Engine".
Electric appliances like Tesla use electric drive motors.
@@demcompnerd alert 🤓🚨👀
@@TreyDarkis nerd? No, it's proper terminology.
Again, an engine runs off combustion, while a motor is electric. 🤷
Now you've learned something new, no need to be a dick because you had no clue.
@@demcomp your arguing semantics, buddy. Anybody who’s not a dick knows what he meant and we aren’t pointing it out because it’s not important. Your comment has annoying and know-it-all written all over it pal! Very condescending
Not even boat motors like to have water shoved through their intakes. Great video! Great advice about not driving through standing water too. Listen to Jim Cantore, "turn around and don't drown"... your Toyota 2AR-FE. 😉
The crank tolerances should be checked, but I would re-use it if those come out OK.
How to tell if the engine is not a reman from Toyota is that new engine front timing cover has grey RTV gasket. Reman are black RTV gasket.
I know that these are done that way but to know if I did it and to make sure that no one tries to screw me over. I use orange/red RTV gasket.
The water pump is definitely a common failure point on older vehicles 2000-2013, honestly any engine leaks because it's usually a rubber gasket that hardens up or the paper gasket like you saw on this 2AR-FE. But as long as Toyota keeps those gaskets as the usual and those 2AR-FE cam gears and piston rings, I'll be a happily paid tech at the end of the day.
You named the 3 common "failure" points of the motor. Not much past that.
@@ryanbrown918 that’s great man, it’s almost like you can read a full sentence.
I love these videos. I really liked the 3.4L 5VZ-FE Toyota engine you tore down. It appeared to be a hydro lock as well. Those engines are just about bullet proof.
Great video Sir.
What happens to the chains?????? Treated with such reverence and then no idea
Problems I've seen on this engine model:
Cam phasers noisy or failed (kinda rare but happens).
Hydraulic chain tensioner that bleeds out after parked and gets noisy during start up until it fills up again.
Balancer cassette unit with stripped gear's teeth.
I think that's about it. 👌🙂
the one in my old buddies camry seemed indestructable. multiple 100+mph runs (and jumps) it still ran like a top. thing sounded fair for what it was and the vvti is pretty cool too if ya can figure it out. good times.
Yay, stayed up for you vid, it's 02:45 in the night here, WORTH IT! Thank you.
You must be somewhere in Eastern Europe or so. Engine carnage transcends international borders. 😉
I would really like to see you wear safety type glasses. Love watching the videos! Cheers!
I think we need a compilation video of your struggles with dipstick tubes.
That’s a good idea, I agree with you
He'd probably have to speed it up at this point. I think it would be about 3 hours long. 🤣
Thank you Andy and son for the engine.
Eric, Thanks for showing us a engine teardown with carnage. It is important to our diet of carnage of engine.
The vegan tear downs just aren’t satisfying
26:16 I expected you to say "it's crowning!"
😂
Thank you Andy and your son for giving the Toyota the engine for Eric to tear down for our viewing enjoyment.
Love to see the latest 2.5L A25A Toyota engine on the channel.
I know it will be hard to find,but how about a carbureted Ford 351clevland,or 302,which is also made in Cleveland
Looks like there's a whole load of candidates available in New York today. From what I saw on videos yesterday people just love to drive too fast in water and get that bow wave up the the engine air intake just under the hood lip.
It's like they think they need to get a run at it. That only makes it worse. It's not like they are going through 8" of snow.
Rutherford Ford in Britain is worth a look on UA-cam if you want to see morons driving through water with nice bow waves and then dead engines.
Your average NYC denizen isn't all that bright
Tarp tightly strapped down across the whole front of the car up the hood and down to the undertray...
Drive to create the bow wave...
that creates a hole in the water that extends to the engine area and allows the engine to work and also suck in air from wherever it can.
Not guaranteed...but if needs must and you are going to drown if you stay on the river bed???
Thanks for the engine Andy! Great video as usual.
A very robust engine, all things considered. Nice score.
Nice! Actually just started tearing down a 2AZ-FE for a rebuild. You can clearly tell this is an iteration of the 2AZ, both very similar and indeed very simple to work on.
Good engines if people top the oil up
I'm kinda surprised the water pump wasn't blurred out.
Pointed the wrong way
We're not in Japan. No pixelation required.,
Thanks Andy !
I enjoy my Saturday night dinners while you serve dessert.....wonderful.
If you want to take it to the next stage, take that motor, throw a new rod and piston in it and get it to run !
I had an uncle who replaced a piston on his 58 Chevy right in the street, replaced it and drove it back home....that was impressive, I was only about 10, but I remember him under the car, very methodical,like you, and he replaced the offending parts.
"Billy-Bob, you caint drive yo mama's car across that crick!"...."Hold my beer!"
And Billy-Bob is seven years old.
Thanks Andy and son. Thanks for tearing it down Eric, and taking us along for the carnage.
You know cletus mcfarland sometimes blow up crown vic engines on a dyno maybe you can do one on your show here ...they can feed em nitrous till they litteray denote in to orbit and would be a interesting autopsy inner maliance could be a fun break down
I have a 2017 Rav4 Limited with 90k and the only issues I have is the timing chain rattles every morning which Toyota says is normal and the timing cover has oil seepage. Oil changes every 5k and filters when needed. It runs great and doesn't burn a drop of oil ! The injectors need a bottle of additive every oil change but other than that it's great.
Hey Eric, I've been looking for some used timing chain rails and water pump for a 2AR ‐FE 2.5L engine. I'd be willing to pay top dollar for em! Lol
I got a modded Camry with this engine, they can handle some power and are super easy to mod. I'm currently at 215whp with a 1ar crank, Frankenstein intake manifold, and cold air, and exhaust, been wanting to do forced induction on it but don't got the funds
That can be easily reassembled as an odd-fire three cylinder. All the parts look fine!
Super fascinating and it is pretty clear that all (at least in US) around 2008 auto manufacturers were forced to offer for high performance gas engines either VVT, DOD or some 'ticking time bomb' add on. And Honda Toyota were no longer immune. It is evident after watching your earlier Corvette 'LT' (now I guess can apply to any GM motor as in past was only to apply to 5.7 liter engines had to apply DOD. Prior to 2008 or so it was clear a designated 'performance' car by auto maker was exempt from CAFE to which other lines had to pick up MPG/Emissions slack. I feel for people with VVT or DOD as you can be on top of maintenance but when unspent fuel on non-active cylinders or blow by as a result of a made to fail solenoid or delicate spring on a roller is troubling for owners of these cars. Also troubling is knowing the GM3800 was used as the SLEV benchmark (EGR has no flow coming from factory) and having things like Oxygen Sensor 'trouble' codes remain on for over 100k miles on my vehicle which cuz its pushrod never had any affect, and when other comaprable engines were offered i.e. GM 3.6 or some Northstar V8, I come to find out GM had to underreport my 3800 spec which is unfortunate.
They didn't opt for the snorkel option......they should have.
Bro I have a fleet of Camry and let me tell you ain’t nothing better than the /ar-fe and the the 4 cylinder gen is also out standing. 😊
Thank you Andy and son. I've had to replace a couple of these due to external damage. Specifically a large rock through the oil pan at speed. (one customer claimed he had hit a rabbit) Finding a motor from our fleet was easy since they get wrecked more often than they get blown up.
Wow!!! This is crazy... I have a '13 tC with that engine.. I baby the hell out of it with oil changes every 6000-8000km.. religiously! Every year it gets between 3 and 4 oil changes (I put in a lot of mileage with longish commutes).. seeing one toasted blows my mind.. these engines are insanely reliable! Just take care of them people, and it can near on run forever!
I wanna say the oil consumption is because of bad PCV valves. I've replaced one before, at my old shop.
I'll never forget when I drove a Camry with one of these 3 years ago and I heard the thing gargling while turning.
I absolutely love the architecture of these engines. I really feel like Toyota attempted to create a million mile engine. The oiling system is insane - multiple piston squirters, and the valve cover that actively lubricates each cam follower.
I did have one come in with a broken valve spring, though. Very rare on these engines.
Toyota engineer here: Thanks. We try 😊
How about a bad design of piston oil rings?? These engines are prone to excessive oil consumption!....
@@victordobin5918 I said I was a Toyota engineer but not the designer of this specific engine. I work in plastics… Closest we come to powertrain is intake manifold but I am over new model planning for some instrument panel lines and the new model in question is an electric car… So uh… I have no idea 🤷♂️
What is this issue with the design?
@@victordobin5918 you're thinking of the AZ engine, and it was only for a couple years.
@@zeropointzero No, you are just speculating. Next time verify your sources before posting.
Eric treating us like we are in the Roman Coliseum....and need to see some gory carnage.
"Are you not entertained??"
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yes, Aisin water pumps and Toyota (made by Aisin) water pumps have a metal gaskets and I noticed the coolant was also wrong. It is usually pink coolant.