Felix, I admire and respect you. You are education, joyful, positive, and still young at heart. You are a inspiration, and you exude hope. Beyond that, I consider you a knife guru of every kind. You are so willing to experiment and play with knives, you have made me feel great about doing so with all of mine. This includes my Leatherman, Mora and my Schrade Frontier knives. Your willingness to just "play" with knives allows me to enjoy mine more even if it's not a Victorinox. You really do enjoy your work it seems, and it inspires me to be willing to enjoy playing with my knives fearlessly as well. Thank you for your work!
After years of putting SAKs' in a wide mouth plastic bottle with liquid dish soap and warm water, I've never had any problems. Blades and tools are left open and the occasional shaking after adding isopropyl alcohol . Thanks for your video Felix . Great to see you again.
@@QuantumMechanic_88 Straight alcohol on a rag? Wipes pure red with 2 seconds of wiping for me. I've never mixed it with water or anything. Maybe that's the difference.
Your method is fine. I relate my experience. Retired. Over the years I received hundreds of used knives and restored them. Nearly all were "dirty". SAK units were different. Did not have to worry about gung under the scales or rust in nearly all instances. 1. soak in soapy water and wash clean. 2. soak in white vinegar. You could use alcohol, but it is more expensive. Wipe clean. Then lubricate with your favorite - 3-in-1 oil, silicone spray, even olive oil.
The blood blister on your thumb is so relatable. You definitely work with your hands a lot and those things happen sometimes. You're the best , never stop !
@@FelixImmler I pinched my finger tip last month while splitting wood and got a fat blister. I try to wear gloves but sometimes, well you probably know.
The rule of thumb with sticky stuff like resin is: greasy stuff removes sticky stuff. You can use kitchen oils too, even butter if you want. Not just for hard materials, works on hands too. Peronally i am not a fan of WD40 (wd stands for water dispersion if i remember correct) because it can become sticky stuff itself over time. I prefer to use Ballistol instead. (when i have to remove sticky stuff i use Ballistol, it could also be used to lubricate the folding mechanisms. And the polish: i would recommend it before the ultrasonic cleaner, because you might get polish paste into cracks and inbetween stuff of the knife, and you will get rid of that again in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Just trying to help.🙂 The "WD" in WD-40 = "Water Displacement." By the way, Ballistol is a great choice. I do wish they made an odor free Ballistol. That stuff is rough (at least to me.) That being said, I still use it.😄 Take Care!
Another vote for Ballistol over WD40. If for no other reason that WD40 can/will eventually produce a lacquer like coating on whatever you spray it on that is difficult to remove. Ballistol doesn't do this.
Dear Felix, I also did use the ultraxonic-bath, but did ad a special conditioner at something like 40°C that did soften the water and did bring the US-cleaning to a better result. I did even dry them up into normal laboratory oven at 20°C. After that I also used compressed air to remove humidity. I did not use WD40 - I did use some oil you normally use a the drill press and came to good results. I must say that I like your idea how to bring the handles and the blade back to a perfect look. Best regards from Germany René
Thanks Felix! I got my hands on a 1980 Swisschamp that hadn't been used much. But it was left to sit in bad environmental conditions for 40 years, the blades could barely move. Now it looks and works like new!!!! My first knife rescue was a Super Tinker. PS. Glad to know WD-40 is safe, since I use it all the time.
Beautiful video. Thank you for saving my knife from the dishwasher. I would also recommend ultrasonic cleaning after polishing. This also removes the polishing paste.
Hallo Felix und Danke für deine Reinigungstipps! 👍👍👍 Meine Victorinox-Messer sind Gebrauchsmesser und das älteste habe ich bereits seit fast 50 Jahren! Meist wird und wurde es beim Fischen eingesetzt. Wenn es zu sehr verschmutzt ist, wird es mit warmen Wasser, etwas Seife und einer weichen Bürste gereinigt. Bei hartnäckigen Flecken, etwa Baumharz, kommt manchmal auch Industriereiniger zum Einsatz. Anschließend wird natürlich geölt und nach Bedarf nachgeschärft. Nur polieren tue ich dieses Messer nicht, denn jeder Kratzer, jede Scheuerstelle, jede kleine Beschädigung ist für mich Charakter und Erinnerungen welche eine Geschichte erzählen! Eine Geschichte die Teil des Messers ist, aber auch Teil meines Lebens! Liebe Grüße aus Oberösterreich in die schöne Schweiz!
Super Idee mit der Politur, gerade die Griffschalen leiden bei mir öfter und so spart man sich aus optischen Gründen neue. Vielen Dank, toller, interessanter Kanal!
Thank you Felix for showing the good and the bad. Now we know what not to do as well as what works. Now take some time off and replay some of your very early videos, your family will thank you. God bless.
Hi, I am new to your channel. I have been watching a lot of your videos. I must say you are amazing. You always have a bright smile that’s very cheering. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.❤❤. From Washington state thank you so much.
Always like your videos. My husband prefers to use Ballistol because it cleans and lubricates at the same time. He pours ballistol and water in the ultrasound cleaner and uses tooth brush . Afterwards he uses WD40 because it repels water than uses my hair blower to dry the knife because it will also blow out any micro dust particles left. Thank you for sharing your information.
Nice to see your techniques and read of others in the comments. My Swiss Champ has been daily carried in a belt pouch, but never used in such dirty conditions and never cleaned. Still works fine. Maybe one day I'll give it a spruce up.
Felix, great video, as usual, thank you. I wish I had seen this 15years ago! I found what I think was a brand new ‘Fisherman’ SAK, and because it was in the soil and I didn’t know how it had been used, I put it into a saucepan and boiled it!! One scale came off, the other is very distorted. I still use that knife in my garage but if I had only realised that heat would kill the scales I’d have done it differently. I have several SAKs including one from a Swiss friend with my name and radio call-sign engraved on it, and I love them all, they all get used (I’ve lost a few small ones too, mainly while fly-fishing - I miss those super-handy little tools), but would love to bring that found knife back to as-new condition. Keep up your great Videos, they are always interesting and relevant. Les in UK
My knife is over 40 years old. Gets used around the house, in the bush, to fix land rovers, to help building a camper and now a boat. It's been heavily used and abused. Petrol, diesel, oil, WD40 and of course sweaty hands. Cleaning has been minimal. Mostly rag and lube with WD40. I prefer the look of dull scales. Still works really well, but needs a new blade cos I broke it with abuse. Biggest cleaning problem is getting glue off from opening taped up parcels, or cutting gaffer/duct tape. I'd be interested in your take on this. But thanks. I might just try the ultrasonic. Another topic you might consider is how to get a buried knife working again. I found one in the gravel of a Weiher, where someone lost it years ago. The aluminium separators were very corroded, and that, with sand ground into it was quite a challenge. Keep up the good work!
Victorinox has a lifetime guarantee. You can return your SAK to a Victorinox dealer. They will send it back to Switzerland, and you will either get a new knife, or they will replace that blade. It takes a few weeks though.
I have arrived at similar places. I usually run under the hot tap. If my hand can stand it, it is just enough heat to safely remove the scales with no damage. I, too, use a toothbrush and a ½ cut down toothbrush with just plain soapy water, I dry thoroughly then apply Ballistol and work any stiffness, if it is bad I go back to the soapy water if not I wipe any excess oil and turn my attention to returning the scales to the knife and then if they have scratches I use 1000-1500 grit on the scales then buff with the residual tormek or autosol paste on a strop. This process makes scales look nearly new. Sometimes, there are scratches on the toolset, so I use the same method as the scales on the tools.
Great video! I've found that pipe cleaners are awesome for getting into many of the smaller grooves, especially on 58mm models. The brush (or Q-Tip) is great for the larger areas, but the pipe cleaner seems to be able to get into areas that the others can't. (Also for cleaning the toothpick/tweezer grooves too)
I had a friend who told me that protecting your blade with oil (maybe over winter or something) is a good thing, but he tried with wd40 once and found out it was not good, then he was later told that wd40 contains turpentine. In fact I've heard that a few people call WD40 a degreaser. I'm not a chemistry guy, but I think turpentine and wd40 will probably stain even your stainless steel blades, at least over time. I think WD40 is good for cleaning, and I use it too. But I also wash it off afterwards. You can do an experiment for a channel video :D Keep a few blades in wd40 and turpentine for a few months and see what happens.
@@babthooka CNC machinist here. WD40 is a de-greaser and could in a pinch also be used for rust removal as it also cleans surfaces, but it does cause corrosion (rust) if sprayed on steel and left to sit for an extended period of time. At my current job we use silicon spray for lubricating surfaces (mainly to keep them slick) and 5-56 for lubricating machinery, however 5-56 is not good for things such as bike chains due to it also corroding over time. TL;DR: WD40 bad for lubricating over time, use the proper lubricant for the proper situation (for example oil for moving parts and grease for bearings).
Great to show us a comparison between different methods. I do my cleaning quite similar, but firstly I use an additional painters brush #2 (pig's bristle) to get in the small gaps better than with the toothbrush. Secondly I open the tools only halfway - this way part of the springs get exposed and more dirt can be removed. Thirdly I use LiquiMoly-LM40 spray, it's superior to WD-40 in any aspect. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, but with repeatedly opening and closing the tools during the wiping I get pretty satisfying results.
WD-40 may work for cleaning, but my choice for lubrication is either SFR or Jaymor's 191S which is food safe. WD-40 is notorious for drying into a gum and has caused many failures in firearms as a result. Both SFR and Jaymor's have the highest lubricity and the Jaymor's is used to lubricate switchplates on railroad tracks, which are a critical safety application. I use the SFR as an engine oil additive as well.
Thanks for another great video Felix. Methods 1, 2 and 4 I can do. Personally, I don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner - I don't suppose that many SAK owners do. I'm not at all surprised that a dishwasher damages SAK scales. I would never do that. You can use hand sanitiser (70% alcohol) to remove sticky stuff, such as the adhesive from parcel tape, from blades and scissors.
For larger knives like the Swiss Champ I prefer Q-tips (cotton buds), flattened with the pliers to clean the inside of the knife. I consider this as more effective method than using a tooth brush. Otherwise, thank you Felix for the well-explained videos 👍
Olive oil (and most other vegetable oils) will remove sticky things like resin as well, Felix, and those oils are natural and don't gum up the way WD-40 can. Just thought I'd mention it.
Thank you for your tips. I'm already using some. I prefer using Balistol or Brunox as oils. But best results I get with silicon aerosol oils for airsoft
Really enjoyed the video. I learned some good tips for keeping my SAKs in top shape. I like the tip of sanding down the toothbrush to get at those hard to reach spots. I don't get my SAK tools that dirty, at least not up to now. I carry one of my SAK tools everyday, it goes where I go. My favorite tool that I use the most. Is the Scissors. Thanks so much for all your instruction, I always learn new things from you.
You can call me a savage, but I think most of the scratches and scuffs are a sign of a well used and loved tool. I used the tooth brush and sonic cleaner to great success with an old knife that I couldn’t open with my finger nails.
Hallo Felix. Great video, as always. My only advice would be to use the electronic cleaner after the polishing paste, that way it will remove any residue of WD-40 and also paste. Other than that, great results.
Thanks for video. I especially like the suggestion not to use a dishwasher. Over the years, I have normally used WD-40. However, more recently I found Servisol SUPER 10 works even better. I am an electronics guy and usually have a can of SUPER 10 lying around for cleaning electrical contacts. I find it cleans SAKs like WD-40 but leaves less oily residue.
I usually soak my sak in a container with one of the detergent pods.They are very conventrated and do a good job getting all the grime out I then use WD40.Thanks for the intersting tips.May try them soon.
Hello Felix ! Nice to see you again. Thaks for this useful video. As you point out, when polishing any knife, beware to apply the cutting edge of the blade on the table : it's easy to cut our finger !
Show us how to remove the scales without damaging them and should this be done on a limited basis or can it be done with regularity. Always great videos and info. Thanks and keep tthem coming Posted this before the end, I see there is a video on scale removal, will not be doing that. Thanks for your great information
Hallo Felix, danke für deine Reinigungstipps! So mache ich das auch, im Ultraschallreiniger verwende ich dest. Wasser mit einem Schuss Spülmittel. LG Micha
You are a real SAK magician! I use SAK since 1971 but never knew WD40 would not hurt cellidor. Never knew you could use ultrasonic bath without hurting cellidor. And never knew a metal polish could be used on cellidor. So far I am using Xerapol acrylic polish paste and only used ultrasonic for the SAK without the scales. Thank you for all of your education. And a question please: what did you pour into the water inside the ultrasonic cleaner?
Hi Felix, das war genau das richtige Video zur richtigen Zeit. Ich besuche häufiger Flohmärkte und dort gibt es machmal diese Messer zu einem recht günstigen Preis zu schießen. Leider machmal auch in einem ziemlich verranzten Zustand. Daher hab ich bisher immer davor zurückgeschreckt zuzuschlagen. Nach Deinem sehr gut aufgebauten Video werde ich das aber nun mal angehen. Ich habe zwar kein Ultraschall-Reinigungsgerät, aber ich glaube, eine alte Munddusche würde die tief sitzenden Schmutzpartikel ebenfall entfernen können. Gute Zeit Dir!
Warm water and old toothbrush works just fine for mine SAK ''Climber''. Sometimes I ad little WD40 to the joints and that is it. Love your channel btw!
be careful with using wd40 as a lubricant, it works fine but lasts only a day then it dries up, get ANY thin synthetic oil for that if you want an upgrade
Great video! I have learned (unfortunately) that brake cleaner, and acetone will melt the handle scales. I read that DEET will melt them, too. I use Windex or Simple Green to deep clean, and perhaps an ultrasonic cleaner is in my future😃 With respect to the polishing, Flitz, Brasso, and Plastx all work very well, and the Plastx is the finer/less abrasive of the three. I've restored some acrylic watch crystals with them as well....
i use the old toothbrush and toothpaste, then wash it firmy and flood with olive oil and move the blades few times and wipe out most of the oil. I treat this way watches and other stuff too, it shines afterwards and is food safe.
I wonder if you could clamp the knife in a vise (or just some clamps sandwiched between some wood) and steam clean it with the tools open. Maybe you could still deform the scales if you concentrate the steam in one area too long, but I figure clamping should help keep the scales cooler and prevent warping. Might even work to bend your warped scales from the dishwasher back into shape if you warmed them up first. Ultrasonic cleaner is best though - that's what I use too. You can get a slight haze on the plastic scale that faces down though, since the knife can vibrate against the tray a tiny bit and create micro scratches (at least that happens with mine sometimes).
If u put 1 or 2 drop of dishwashing liquid into the water in ultra sonic cleaner it will give an even better result. Thank you for tips. Wd40 is effective and better using a brush of soft cloth to wipe hard the knife
As for the deep slots [11:23] I use a pipe cleaner or stripped down Q-Tip to pull up the dirt. I like to work WD-40 into the actions, by spraying the ends in closed /half open/ and all open modes. Then I work the actions of each tool. I follow up with gun oil on the actions, and wipe down. I only clean one kmife at a time. But you can spend as much time cleaning one Swiss Champ as you spend on four Campers.
Great post! After getting my Sak wet, should the scales be removed every time my Sak gets wet, once in a while, or only when necessary? I purchased a Sak handheld sharpener, the auto-sharpen kind that a few stokes and both sides are sharpened. My hands are paralyzed due to injury and 'teaching' my wife, daughter, and grandsons; they're not ready to use a stone and I can't sharpen this small knife. Three old Puma hunting knives, those I can sharpen on my own, carefully.
I hate dirty pocket knives. This was another great video. I have been using the brush and warm soapy water and WD-40 for years. Maybe this would be good excuse to get an ultrasonic cleaner. 😄
After cleaning, I would like to suggest a light, high quality gun oil to lubricate any moving parts, then wipe off any excess after working it in a bit.
That is a really great metal polish, I got some to fix a problem at work and made a mirror finish in seconds flat. I will definitely get some for stropping...
Wenn die Kunststoffschalen ausgebleicht sind, dann kannst du die Oberflächen mit Rapsöl behandeln. Nach einiger Zeit härtet das Rapsöl, und die Griffschalen sehen aus wie fabriksneu aus.
@@FelixImmler doch Rapsöl wird fest. Rapsöl ist auch bei Kettensägen zum ölen , Rapsöl nimmst du zum Fahrradketten schmieren, und ich habe meinen 10 Jahre alten Husqvarna Rasenmäher wieder mit Rapsölbehandlungen auf Hochglanz gebracht. Polymere sind durchlässig. Rapsöl lagert sich ein und trocknet aus und wird fest. Da festes Rapsöl nicht solvent ist, ist die Behandlung dauerhaft. Du wiederholst die Behandlung hin und wieder. Dieser Prozess funktioniert nicht mit Parafinölen. Leinöl funktioniert auch, aber Leinöl ist etwas aggressiv . Bei Holz kann das zu Verfärbungen führen. Das habe ich auch bei Kunststoff bemerkt, aber nur im geringen Maße.
Thanks for the knife cleaning/sharpening videos. Felix can you do a video on how to take apart the Suunto MC2 Global compass and remove a sizeable bubble. I know of no one who has done this on a high end compass. Thanks
I do a prewash in the sink with warm water and dish soap then 10-15 minutes in the sonic cleaner with the heating element turned on. After that I spray them heavily with WD-40 to displace the water then hit them with the air compressor. Let dry for 30-60 minutes then lube with some KPL or Nano-oil.
Danke für die Tipps. Wie immer einfach nur klasse. Danke. Ich habe Messer aus den 90er, die aus den 70er und 80er habe ich verschenkt. Leider. Nun sind meine Messer nicht mehr so alt, sonst könnte ich noch mehr stolz auf meine Messer sein. Viele Grüße aus Schweden.
Good old WD-40 has been the Boss of metal Cleaning, and Lubricating metal joints for decades! Thanks for sharing this Fact and Details Herr Immler. 👍👍 5👑🤠
Just got done cleaning my compact. I used a scrub brush soap and water. Next I used bleach to soak the scale tools, and lastly I dumped vegetable oil in the pivots. I’ve never let my knives get that dirty, but it’s nice to see other cleaning methods. I forgot to ask, but has anyone ever tried using polyurethane on the scales so they retain that shiny new look?
@@FelixImmler I was wondering if something waxy could prolong the life of scales and prevent scratches from forming in the first place. I originally thought of polyurethane. Not sure if it would work.
I used ultrasonic cleaners for over 40 years in a dental lab and in my dental office. Ammoniated cleaners work very well to remove dirt, wax and oil. Even just using soapy water in an utrasonic will do a better job than cleaning with a toothbrush. I like your videos, but I'm not a SAK guy. My fingernails are too short to open a SAK. I have 2 new Climbers for sale on ebay currently. THANKS for this video, Felix!!
Hello Felix!! Thank you for another wonderful Swiss Army Knife video! I have a question about the use of metal polish on the scales of the red Camper. The “Camping” logo looks like a later hot-stamped one rather than the metal inlay that Vic used earlier. I may be wrong, but did the metal polish wear away a bit of the Camping logo? (That’s of no consequence, of course, to people who use the Camper as intended.) vielen Dank aus den USA! Richard
Hello, Felix! Good video & tips! I take it was not necessary to remove the scale tools prior to cleaning...they look brand new! Is rubbing compound (turtle wax brand) good for removing or reducing scratches on both scales & blades? May I suggest you consider a video on how to clean a Swisstool & a Swisstool Spirit...thanks!😊
Hello Felix, thank You for another great video! I have another question for You; I have a couple of Swiss Army Knives with wooden scales, do You have tips for cleaning them without damaging the scales? Thank You for reading this message 😊.
Uktra Sonic cleaners are great for glasses! You wouldn't believe the dirt that comes off of your glasses that you wear and clean everyday! Also great for jewellery and similar things.
Hoi Felix, again a very interesting and useful video, great! I would never put a good knive into the dishwasher, no matter which one. Not only that the heat and water disforms plastic and wooden handles, also is the heat absolute "Poison" for the hardness of the steel. And the "screaming" of your knife is not because it's so dry, it comes from the regeneration-salt of the dishwasher, which is now scraping in the mechanism. Because i am wearing spectacles, the ultrasonic-device is also a good solution for removing the "denim-sweat" 😊 (The dust of the jeans-pockets) To get a higher cleaning-power, you can add "Spüli" or a special cleaning fluid, but ultrasonic can't do "miracles". WD40 or Ballistol is very good for removing resin, but also butter is a good stoff for this. And one another tip for polishing the scales is one special toothpaste. Most times the particles in toothpaste in combination with the tensides are too rough, but with "Ajona" i got quite good results. For Polishing blades and/or tools i take a cotton-wheel in my electric handdrill and put some polish (white and blue) on it. Works pretty fine but of course also not "perfect". But also "Autosol" is allways a fine helper at polishing-tasks. Thanks for showing your methods, that sure will be a great help for knive-maintaining, 👍I wish you a very fine weekend! LG
to prevent contaminating the solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner put your knife in a plastic zip loc bag with enough solvent to immerse the knife and discard the used solvent and bag when you are finished.
G'day Felix, "especially" good vid mate, well explained and shown with the various test cases. The only blades that go into my dishwasher are one piece butter knives and dip spreaders ; ) Personally, I skip step 1 and 3 because ... I find WD-40 as a degreaser, caters for those aspects too and it hasn't had any adverse effect on my Ranger 78 insert material either, .... whatever composition that is ; ). Nice toothbrush mod btw. Incidently, there are, (I think, bronze), bristled fine welding versions available for a bit more grunt, metal to metal without scratching. Also, it pays to remove the toothpick and tweezers for cleaning IMO. What I do last, is Step 1, (dishwashing soap and water), then rinse with pure water, followed by a final compressed air blow out; A. to help remove any residual WD-40, metal paste and filings for potential food prep tasks and B. as well as to avoid contaminating living plants when taking cuttings, doing grafting, and the like. Oh yeah, and work in only a drop of light machine oil on the pivot points is enough lube after all that lot without getting it everywhere. Cheers Duke. P.S. I do own a Victorinox belt clip, so handy and well designed, and no weight or discomfort sitting horizontally, in the bottom of a groin pocket ..... I'm sure you know what I mean ; ) and a pouch to suit my Ranger 78, (for "buttocks" carry), not bad, but next time you speak with them, please suggest a proper stitched and/or riveted belt loop, rather than simple pass through slits ....... It'd be worth a couple of extra bucks I reckon.
Hello! May i suggest interdental brushes or 0000 (finest) steelwool to be used with WD40 on scales and those narrow spaces? Also compressed air. And CapeCod polishing cloths, i polish my full metal G-Shock with it. And a question: how to sharpen the woodsaw? I rather use a Leatherman Surge and a replaceable t-shank saw then a SAK or SwissTool being afraid ill damage the last ones. Thank you.
Very informational video! I have a question though, what would you recommend doing when the scales on a SAK get loose (they don't fall off but they jiggle a little bit when you touch them)?
Alles recht und gut aber nach nur einem Apfel schneiden "klebt" die Klinge wieder und geht schon wieder etwas schwerer auf und zu. Gibt es da etwas dagegen (Öl hilft auch nicht dauerhaft), auch das Original Victorinox Öl nicht.
Schneide deinen Apfel so, dass der Saft Richtung Messerspitze läuft und nicht Richtung Scharnier. Ist ungewöhnlich, so ohne Schneidbrett und erfordert evtl. etwas Übung. Oder Du wickelst etwas Küchenpapier ums Talon und verhinderst so ein verkleben.
I always remove the scales and throw the whole knife into a pot with boiling distilled water for 5 minutes. After that a tiny drop of machine oil in every tool by using a syringe. My oldest knife is 30 years old and looks like new. Once it fell into the sea and hardened from salt. I rinse it with strong vinegar and then boiled it and everything was fine.
I'm not concerned about appearance, but several Trekkers will not open with one hand anymore after sitting for 18 months during my Chemotherapy. Any tips to make the blades open smoothly?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Felix, I admire and respect you. You are education, joyful, positive, and still young at heart. You are a inspiration, and you exude hope.
Beyond that, I consider you a knife guru of every kind. You are so willing to experiment and play with knives, you have made me feel great about doing so with all of mine. This includes my Leatherman, Mora and my Schrade Frontier knives. Your willingness to just "play" with knives allows me to enjoy mine more even if it's not a Victorinox.
You really do enjoy your work it seems, and it inspires me to be willing to enjoy playing with my knives fearlessly as well.
Thank you for your work!
Thanks a lot for your wonderful feedback!
After years of putting SAKs' in a wide mouth plastic bottle with liquid dish soap and warm water, I've never had any problems. Blades and tools are left open and the occasional shaking after adding isopropyl alcohol . Thanks for your video Felix . Great to see you again.
The traditional red scales should not be cleaned with alcohol, you will ruin them instantly. Red will come off on the cloth instantly.
Thanks a lot for describe me your cleaning methode!
Thanks for your hint.
@@supernoobsmith5718 *NOPE*
@@QuantumMechanic_88 Straight alcohol on a rag? Wipes pure red with 2 seconds of wiping for me. I've never mixed it with water or anything. Maybe that's the difference.
Your method is fine. I relate my experience. Retired. Over the years I received hundreds of used knives and restored them. Nearly all were "dirty". SAK units were different. Did not have to worry about gung under the scales or rust in nearly all instances. 1. soak in soapy water and wash clean. 2. soak in white vinegar. You could use alcohol, but it is more expensive. Wipe clean. Then lubricate with your favorite - 3-in-1 oil, silicone spray, even olive oil.
Thank you for your interesting tips!
My knife will get used for food pretty often so I only use a vegetable oil to lubricate. Don’t fancy ingesting WD40!
@@marcushaliwell7340Don't ingest "vegetable" oils either.
The blood blister on your thumb is so relatable. You definitely work with your hands a lot and those things happen sometimes. You're the best , never stop !
I caught the tip of my thumb on the handle of a pair of pliers 🥹 Thanks for your compliment!
@@FelixImmler I pinched my finger tip last month while splitting wood and got a fat blister. I try to wear gloves but sometimes, well you probably know.
I love new videos from the number one Swiss Army Knife Guru...😊
Thanks a lot for this kind compliment!
It's a fact
I agree!
Thanks Felix for getting me to fall in love with SAKs you are a true inspiration and the SAK GOD watching from Sweden
Thanks a lot dear Tommy!
The rule of thumb with sticky stuff like resin is: greasy stuff removes sticky stuff. You can use kitchen oils too, even butter if you want.
Not just for hard materials, works on hands too.
Peronally i am not a fan of WD40 (wd stands for water dispersion if i remember correct) because it can become sticky stuff itself over time.
I prefer to use Ballistol instead. (when i have to remove sticky stuff i use Ballistol, it could also be used to lubricate the folding mechanisms.
And the polish: i would recommend it before the ultrasonic cleaner, because you might get polish paste into cracks and inbetween stuff of the knife, and you will get rid of that again in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Thanks a lot for your super interesting hints!
Best Thing of Butter you can use it to Clean child hands too ;-)
Just trying to help.🙂
The "WD" in WD-40 = "Water Displacement."
By the way, Ballistol is a great choice. I do wish they made an odor free Ballistol. That stuff is rough (at least to me.) That being said, I still use it.😄
Take Care!
@@-Craptastic- Agree, if there would be such a version of Ballistol, i would get that immediately.
Another vote for Ballistol over WD40. If for no other reason that WD40 can/will eventually produce a lacquer like coating on whatever you spray it on that is difficult to remove. Ballistol doesn't do this.
I was just cleaning an old sak a few days ago. This is the video I needed. Thanks
Thanks a lot for this compliment!
Dear Felix,
I also did use the ultraxonic-bath, but did ad a special conditioner at something like 40°C that did soften the water and did bring the US-cleaning to a better result. I did even dry them up into normal laboratory oven at 20°C. After that I also used compressed air to remove humidity. I did not use WD40 - I did use some oil you normally use a the drill press and came to good results.
I must say that I like your idea how to bring the handles and the blade back to a perfect look.
Best regards from Germany
René
Thanks Felix! I got my hands on a 1980 Swisschamp that hadn't been used much. But it was left to sit in bad environmental conditions for 40 years, the blades could barely move. Now it looks and works like new!!!! My first knife rescue was a Super Tinker.
PS. Glad to know WD-40 is safe, since I use it all the time.
Beautiful video. Thank you for saving my knife from the dishwasher.
I would also recommend ultrasonic cleaning after polishing. This also removes the polishing paste.
You are right. Thank you
Hallo Felix und Danke für deine Reinigungstipps! 👍👍👍 Meine Victorinox-Messer sind Gebrauchsmesser und das älteste habe ich bereits seit fast 50 Jahren! Meist wird und wurde es beim Fischen eingesetzt. Wenn es zu sehr verschmutzt ist, wird es mit warmen Wasser, etwas Seife und einer weichen Bürste gereinigt. Bei hartnäckigen Flecken, etwa Baumharz, kommt manchmal auch Industriereiniger zum Einsatz. Anschließend wird natürlich geölt und nach Bedarf nachgeschärft.
Nur polieren tue ich dieses Messer nicht, denn jeder Kratzer, jede Scheuerstelle, jede kleine Beschädigung ist für mich Charakter und Erinnerungen welche eine Geschichte erzählen! Eine Geschichte die Teil des Messers ist, aber auch Teil meines Lebens!
Liebe Grüße aus Oberösterreich in die schöne Schweiz!
Danke für deinen schönen Kommentar!
And thank you for your clear language. I like by ocasion get to know some Deutsch.
Super Idee mit der Politur, gerade die Griffschalen leiden bei mir öfter und so spart man sich aus optischen Gründen neue. Vielen Dank, toller, interessanter Kanal!
Thank you Felix for showing the good and the bad. Now we know what not to do as well as what works. Now take some time off and replay some of your very early videos, your family will thank you. God bless.
Thank you very much for your kind comment!
I follow you from Egypt, I love you 🇪🇬❤
Hi, I am new to your channel. I have been watching a lot of your videos. I must say you are amazing. You always have a bright smile that’s very cheering. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.❤❤. From Washington state thank you so much.
Your comment makes me happy! Thank you Hector!
Always like your videos. My husband prefers to use Ballistol because it cleans and lubricates at the same time. He pours ballistol and water in the ultrasound cleaner and uses tooth brush . Afterwards he uses WD40 because it repels water than uses my hair blower to dry the knife because it will also blow out any micro dust particles left. Thank you for sharing your information.
Thanks a lot form your interesting comment!
Nice to see your techniques and read of others in the comments. My Swiss Champ has been daily carried in a belt pouch, but never used in such dirty conditions and never cleaned. Still works fine. Maybe one day I'll give it a spruce up.
Felix, great video, as usual, thank you. I wish I had seen this 15years ago! I found what I think was a brand new ‘Fisherman’ SAK, and because it was in the soil and I didn’t know how it had been used, I put it into a saucepan and boiled it!! One scale came off, the other is very distorted. I still use that knife in my garage but if I had only realised that heat would kill the scales I’d have done it differently. I have several SAKs including one from a Swiss friend with my name and radio call-sign engraved on it, and I love them all, they all get used (I’ve lost a few small ones too, mainly while fly-fishing - I miss those super-handy little tools), but would love to bring that found knife back to as-new condition. Keep up your great Videos, they are always interesting and relevant. Les in UK
Thanks for your wonderful story!
I think you can buy new scales for them. I'd check it out.
My knife is over 40 years old. Gets used around the house, in the bush, to fix land rovers, to help building a camper and now a boat.
It's been heavily used and abused. Petrol, diesel, oil, WD40 and of course sweaty hands. Cleaning has been minimal. Mostly rag and lube with WD40.
I prefer the look of dull scales. Still works really well, but needs a new blade cos I broke it with abuse.
Biggest cleaning problem is getting glue off from opening taped up parcels, or cutting gaffer/duct tape. I'd be interested in your take on this.
But thanks. I might just try the ultrasonic.
Another topic you might consider is how to get a buried knife working again. I found one in the gravel of a Weiher, where someone lost it years ago. The aluminium separators were very corroded, and that, with sand ground into it was quite a challenge.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for your comment! Your hint with the tape is super interestant!
I find the best way to remove tape glue from your blade is a rag or tissue dampened with lighter fluid or ethanol spirit.
@@TheBadger74or acetone. Les
@@TheBadger74 thanks, I'll try them
Victorinox has a lifetime guarantee. You can return your SAK to a Victorinox dealer. They will send it back to Switzerland, and you will either get a new knife, or they will replace that blade. It takes a few weeks though.
I have arrived at similar places. I usually run under the hot tap. If my hand can stand it, it is just enough heat to safely remove the scales with no damage. I, too, use a toothbrush and a ½ cut down toothbrush with just plain soapy water, I dry thoroughly then apply Ballistol and work any stiffness, if it is bad I go back to the soapy water if not I wipe any excess oil and turn my attention to returning the scales to the knife and then if they have scratches I use 1000-1500 grit on the scales then buff with the residual tormek or autosol paste on a strop. This process makes scales look nearly new. Sometimes, there are scratches on the toolset, so I use the same method as the scales on the tools.
Thanks a lot for your super interesting feedback!
I will sleep better tonight knowing that those knives have been given proper love & attention. My Grandpa taught me well;... Thank you, Felix.
Great video! I've found that pipe cleaners are awesome for getting into many of the smaller grooves, especially on 58mm models. The brush (or Q-Tip) is great for the larger areas, but the pipe cleaner seems to be able to get into areas that the others can't. (Also for cleaning the toothpick/tweezer grooves too)
Thanks a lot for your tip!
wd40 may contain turpentine - even if small amounts. It might rust your blades if you don't wipe it off properly.
You are awesome, Felix! :D
Thanks for your hint. the 1.4110 is brutally corrosion resistant. Can turpentine really do anything to this steel?
@@FelixImmlerhi, chemistry guy here, it can corrode and pit metal. if you use it, you need to remove it afterwards.
I had a friend who told me that protecting your blade with oil (maybe over winter or something) is a good thing, but he tried with wd40 once and found out it was not good, then he was later told that wd40 contains turpentine. In fact I've heard that a few people call WD40 a degreaser.
I'm not a chemistry guy, but I think turpentine and wd40 will probably stain even your stainless steel blades, at least over time.
I think WD40 is good for cleaning, and I use it too. But I also wash it off afterwards. You can do an experiment for a channel video :D Keep a few blades in wd40 and turpentine for a few months and see what happens.
@@babthooka CNC machinist here.
WD40 is a de-greaser and could in a pinch also be used for rust removal as it also cleans surfaces, but it does cause corrosion (rust) if sprayed on steel and left to sit for an extended period of time.
At my current job we use silicon spray for lubricating surfaces (mainly to keep them slick) and 5-56 for lubricating machinery, however 5-56 is not good for things such as bike chains due to it also corroding over time.
TL;DR: WD40 bad for lubricating over time, use the proper lubricant for the proper situation (for example oil for moving parts and grease for bearings).
Wait, I thought WD-40 was supposed to prevent rust?
Great to show us a comparison between different methods.
I do my cleaning quite similar, but firstly I use an additional painters brush #2 (pig's bristle) to get in the small gaps better than with the toothbrush. Secondly I open the tools only halfway - this way part of the springs get exposed and more dirt can be removed. Thirdly I use LiquiMoly-LM40 spray, it's superior to WD-40 in any aspect. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, but with repeatedly opening and closing the tools during the wiping I get pretty satisfying results.
Thanks a lot for your super interesting comment!
WD-40 may work for cleaning, but my choice for lubrication is either SFR or Jaymor's 191S which is food safe.
WD-40 is notorious for drying into a gum and has caused many failures in firearms as a result. Both SFR and Jaymor's have the highest lubricity and the Jaymor's is used to lubricate switchplates on railroad tracks, which are a critical safety application. I use the SFR as an engine oil additive as well.
Thanks for another great video Felix.
Methods 1, 2 and 4 I can do.
Personally, I don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner - I don't suppose that many SAK owners do.
I'm not at all surprised that a dishwasher damages SAK scales. I would never do that.
You can use hand sanitiser (70% alcohol) to remove sticky stuff, such as the adhesive from parcel tape, from blades and scissors.
Super... thanks for your comment!
For larger knives like the Swiss Champ I prefer Q-tips (cotton buds), flattened with the pliers to clean the inside of the knife. I consider this as more effective method than using a tooth brush. Otherwise, thank you Felix for the well-explained videos 👍
Woww, what a great idea! Thanks a lot
Olive oil (and most other vegetable oils) will remove sticky things like resin as well, Felix, and those oils are natural and don't gum up the way WD-40 can. Just thought I'd mention it.
Thanks a lot for this valuable hint!
Thank you for your tips. I'm already using some. I prefer using Balistol or Brunox as oils. But best results I get with silicon aerosol oils for airsoft
Thanks a lot for your tips!
Great video. I sent a link to my youngest son. He needs to learn this. Thanks.
super... thank you!
Thank you for the demonstration and for sacrificing your knives.
Thanks a lot for watching my video!
Thanks Felix. I have a Swiss Champ, Trekker and a Recruit. This is helpful.
Thanks a lot for your comment!
Really enjoyed the video. I learned some good tips for keeping my SAKs in top shape. I like the tip of sanding down the toothbrush to get at those hard to reach spots. I don't get my SAK tools that dirty, at least not up to now. I carry one of my SAK tools everyday, it goes where I go. My favorite tool that I use the most. Is the Scissors.
Thanks so much for all your instruction, I always learn new things from you.
Your comment makes me happy. Thank you!
You can call me a savage, but I think most of the scratches and scuffs are a sign of a well used and loved tool. I used the tooth brush and sonic cleaner to great success with an old knife that I couldn’t open with my finger nails.
Thanks a lot for your feedback!
Hallo Felix. Great video, as always. My only advice would be to use the electronic cleaner after the polishing paste, that way it will remove any residue of WD-40 and also paste. Other than that, great results.
Thanks a lot for your idea!
Thanks for video. I especially like the suggestion not to use a dishwasher. Over the years, I have normally used WD-40. However, more recently I found Servisol SUPER 10 works even better. I am an electronics guy and usually have a can of SUPER 10 lying around for cleaning electrical contacts. I find it cleans SAKs like WD-40 but leaves less oily residue.
I usually soak my sak in a container with one of the detergent pods.They are very conventrated and do a good job getting all the grime out I then use WD40.Thanks for the intersting tips.May try them soon.
Thanks a lot for your comment
Hello Felix ! Nice to see you again. Thaks for this useful video. As you point out, when polishing any knife, beware to apply the cutting edge of the blade on the table : it's easy to cut our finger !
You are right!
You have inspired me Felix, it’s a SAK cleaning day tomorrow for me, thanks
Haaa ha haa have fun dear Peter!
This is the advice I've been looking for. Looking no further! Thanks Felix, I'll be sure to check your other videos.
Vielen Dank Hendrik!
Show us how to remove the scales without damaging them and should this be done on a limited basis or can it be done with regularity. Always great videos and info. Thanks and keep tthem coming
Posted this before the end, I see there is a video on scale removal, will not be doing that. Thanks for your great information
Thanks a lot for watching my videos!!
Hallo Felix, danke für deine Reinigungstipps! So mache ich das auch, im Ultraschallreiniger verwende ich dest. Wasser mit einem Schuss Spülmittel. LG Micha
oh.... danke für den Tip!
It was facinating how that knife said please give me oil, i dident know they could do that.
You are a real SAK magician! I use SAK since 1971 but never knew WD40 would not hurt cellidor. Never knew you could use ultrasonic bath without hurting cellidor. And never knew a metal polish could be used on cellidor. So far I am using Xerapol acrylic polish paste and only used ultrasonic for the SAK without the scales. Thank you for all of your education. And a question please: what did you pour into the water inside the ultrasonic cleaner?
Hi Felix, das war genau das richtige Video zur richtigen Zeit. Ich besuche häufiger Flohmärkte und dort gibt es machmal diese Messer zu einem recht günstigen Preis zu schießen. Leider machmal auch in einem ziemlich verranzten Zustand. Daher hab ich bisher immer davor zurückgeschreckt zuzuschlagen. Nach Deinem sehr gut aufgebauten Video werde ich das aber nun mal angehen. Ich habe zwar kein Ultraschall-Reinigungsgerät, aber ich glaube, eine alte Munddusche würde die tief sitzenden Schmutzpartikel ebenfall entfernen können.
Gute Zeit Dir!
Absolut... ein Ultraschallreiniger ist kein muss!!
Warm water and old toothbrush works just fine for mine SAK ''Climber''. Sometimes I ad little WD40 to the joints and that is it.
Love your channel btw!
Thank you so much for your positive feedback!
be careful with using wd40 as a lubricant, it works fine but lasts only a day then it dries up, get ANY thin synthetic oil for that if you want an upgrade
Sewing machine oil or ballistol
@@paddor a lot of people use ballistol, sewing machine oil is also good idea. Thanks for the tip!
@@francobuzzetti9424 tbh never had a problem of that kind. I might switch to ballistol at some point.
You really have a great show! Full of good information and techniques a person can actually use.
Thanks so much!!
Your compliment makes me happy! Thanks a lot
I own the ranger grip 78 and 57, I have future plans on purchasing more Swiss Army knives!!!❤❤
Super, good luck!
Great video! I have learned (unfortunately) that brake cleaner, and acetone will melt the handle scales. I read that DEET will melt them, too. I use Windex or Simple Green to deep clean, and perhaps an ultrasonic cleaner is in my future😃 With respect to the polishing, Flitz, Brasso, and Plastx all work very well, and the Plastx is the finer/less abrasive of the three. I've restored some acrylic watch crystals with them as well....
Thank you very much for this super interesting answer!!!!!
Greetings Felix. Excellent video. it's amazing how gummed up pocket knives can get. Great info as always, thanks.
Thank you very much!
i use the old toothbrush and toothpaste, then wash it firmy and flood with olive oil and move the blades few times and wipe out most of the oil. I treat this way watches and other stuff too, it shines afterwards and is food safe.
Thanks a lot for your tips!
was looking forward to this. i found my 1st knife of 35 years. all the tools are a bit stuck. no access to ultrasonic bath though.
It doesn't matter... a water bath with soap and WD 40 is enough to get the tools to run again.
I wonder if you could clamp the knife in a vise (or just some clamps sandwiched between some wood) and steam clean it with the tools open.
Maybe you could still deform the scales if you concentrate the steam in one area too long, but I figure clamping should help keep the scales cooler and prevent warping. Might even work to bend your warped scales from the dishwasher back into shape if you warmed them up first.
Ultrasonic cleaner is best though - that's what I use too. You can get a slight haze on the plastic scale that faces down though, since the knife can vibrate against the tray a tiny bit and create micro scratches (at least that happens with mine sometimes).
Thanks a lot for your super idea with the steam cleaner! I will try this...
Could we substitute Ballistol for WD-40?
It’s food safe.
I guess WD 40 ist the better solvent...
If u put 1 or 2 drop of dishwashing liquid into the water in ultra sonic cleaner it will give an even better result. Thank you for tips. Wd40 is effective and better using a brush of soft cloth to wipe hard the knife
Thanks a lot for your tip!
As for the deep slots [11:23] I use a pipe cleaner or stripped down Q-Tip to pull up the dirt.
I like to work WD-40 into the actions, by spraying the ends in closed /half open/ and all open modes. Then I work the actions of each tool. I follow up with gun oil on the actions, and wipe down. I only clean one kmife at a time. But you can spend as much time cleaning one Swiss Champ as you spend on four Campers.
Thanks a lot for your tips!
Great post! After getting my Sak wet, should the scales be removed every time my Sak gets wet, once in a while, or only when necessary? I purchased a Sak handheld sharpener, the auto-sharpen kind that a few stokes and both sides are sharpened. My hands are paralyzed due to injury and 'teaching' my wife, daughter, and grandsons; they're not ready to use a stone and I can't sharpen this small knife. Three old Puma hunting knives, those I can sharpen on my own, carefully.
Get well soon
I hate dirty pocket knives. This was another great video. I have been using the brush and warm soapy water and WD-40 for years. Maybe this would be good excuse to get an ultrasonic cleaner. 😄
An ultrasonic cleaner isn't a must...but it's nice to have
After cleaning, I would like to suggest a light, high quality gun oil to lubricate any moving parts, then wipe off any excess after working it in a bit.
Felix, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
That is a really great metal polish, I got some to fix a problem at work and made a mirror finish in seconds flat. I will definitely get some for stropping...
Wenn die Kunststoffschalen ausgebleicht sind, dann kannst du die Oberflächen mit Rapsöl behandeln. Nach einiger Zeit härtet das Rapsöl, und die Griffschalen sehen aus wie fabriksneu aus.
Danke für den tollen Tip. Aber verwechselst Du Rapsöl mit Leinöl? Leinöl härtet aus... Rapsöl meines Wissens nicht. LG vom Bodensee
@@FelixImmler doch Rapsöl wird fest. Rapsöl ist auch bei Kettensägen zum ölen , Rapsöl nimmst du zum Fahrradketten schmieren, und ich habe meinen 10 Jahre alten Husqvarna Rasenmäher wieder mit Rapsölbehandlungen auf Hochglanz gebracht. Polymere sind durchlässig. Rapsöl lagert sich ein und trocknet aus und wird fest. Da festes Rapsöl nicht solvent ist, ist die Behandlung dauerhaft. Du wiederholst die Behandlung hin und wieder. Dieser Prozess funktioniert nicht mit Parafinölen. Leinöl funktioniert auch, aber Leinöl ist etwas aggressiv . Bei Holz kann das zu Verfärbungen führen. Das habe ich auch bei Kunststoff bemerkt, aber nur im geringen Maße.
Felix Immler, I really enjoyed this video, so I hit the like button!
Thanks a lot for your valuable support!
Thanks for the knife cleaning/sharpening videos. Felix can you do a video on how to take apart the Suunto MC2 Global compass and remove a sizeable bubble. I know of no one who has done this on a high end compass. Thanks
Felix would you consider making a video on some wood joinery with just a sak, like making a box for example? thanks
Thanks for your idea...
Awesome video, Felix! Have a great weekend!
Thank you!
I do a prewash in the sink with warm water and dish soap then 10-15 minutes in the sonic cleaner with the heating element turned on. After that I spray them heavily with WD-40 to displace the water then hit them with the air compressor. Let dry for 30-60 minutes then lube with some KPL or Nano-oil.
Perfect!
Qué recomiendas para la limpieza de cachas de naylon?
The best is may be special plastic polish...
Danke für die Tipps. Wie immer einfach nur klasse. Danke.
Ich habe Messer aus den 90er, die aus den 70er und 80er habe ich verschenkt. Leider. Nun sind meine Messer nicht mehr so alt, sonst könnte ich noch mehr stolz auf meine Messer sein.
Viele Grüße aus Schweden.
Accident. I take salt for boiled eggs on my hikes. Salt on my knife. What do I do? 😮
Wie immer, ein schönes und interessantes Video. Vielen Dank.
Danke für das tolle Lob!
Thank you very puch for this video! It's perfect, very professional!
Would it be ok to wash in the dishwasher if you removed the scales first?
after the dishwasher your knife will scream: give me oil!!!!!
Good old WD-40 has been the Boss of metal Cleaning, and Lubricating metal joints for decades! Thanks for sharing this Fact and Details Herr Immler. 👍👍 5👑🤠
Just got done cleaning my compact. I used a scrub brush soap and water. Next I used bleach to soak the scale tools, and lastly I dumped vegetable oil in the pivots. I’ve never let my knives get that dirty, but it’s nice to see other cleaning methods. I forgot to ask, but has anyone ever tried using polyurethane on the scales so they retain that shiny new look?
Sorry, i have never tried to use polyurethane on the scales... how should this work?
@@FelixImmler I was wondering if something waxy could prolong the life of scales and prevent scratches from forming in the first place. I originally thought of polyurethane. Not sure if it would work.
I used ultrasonic cleaners for over 40 years in a dental lab and in my dental office. Ammoniated cleaners work very well to remove dirt, wax and oil. Even just using soapy water in an utrasonic will do a better job than cleaning with a toothbrush. I like your videos, but I'm not a SAK guy. My fingernails are too short to open a SAK. I have 2 new Climbers for sale on ebay currently. THANKS for this video, Felix!!
Thanks a lot for your interesting comment!
thanks I've wondered about the dishwasher
very welcome
Hello Felix, the results are excellent. You are the man 💯👍🏻⚓🇺🇲🇺🇲
Thanks a lot dear Dave!
Great video and research Felix. Cheers from Florida!
Hello Felix!!
Thank you for another wonderful Swiss Army Knife video! I have a question about the use of metal polish on the scales of the red Camper. The “Camping” logo looks like a later hot-stamped one rather than the metal inlay that Vic used earlier. I may be wrong, but did the metal polish wear away a bit of the Camping logo? (That’s of no consequence, of course, to people who use the Camper as intended.)
vielen Dank aus den USA!
Richard
All the SAK's in this Video has the normal insert Logo
Resin is the reason for resistance in reliable relocation and satisfactory results from rotating tools.
Thanks a lot for your comment!
ممنون آقای فلیکس من از ایران ویدئوهاتو دنبال میکنم ، راستی چند تا از بهترینهای ویکتورینوکس را خریدم خیلی کارآمد هستند ❤❤❤
Thank you very much!!
Nice overview of your cleaning processes!
How to clean a SAK with electronic scales, e.g. Traveler or altimeter?
Good question! not with WD 40... i don't know, sorry! May be with somme drops water and a microfiber cloth
Hello, Felix! Good video & tips! I take it was not necessary to remove the scale tools prior to cleaning...they look brand new! Is rubbing compound (turtle wax brand) good for removing or reducing scratches on both scales & blades? May I suggest you consider a video on how to clean a Swisstool & a Swisstool Spirit...thanks!😊
I don't know if rubbing compound is usefull for removing scratches....sorry
@@FelixImmler OK, thanks!
Hello Felix, thank You for another great video! I have another question for You; I have a couple of Swiss Army Knives with wooden scales, do You have tips for cleaning them without damaging the scales? Thank You for reading this message 😊.
Good question... i have to think about... sorry
good video! please another talking about sharping the blade!
Uktra Sonic cleaners are great for glasses!
You wouldn't believe the dirt that comes off of your glasses that you wear and clean everyday!
Also great for jewellery and similar things.
Hoi Felix, again a very interesting and useful video, great! I would never put a good knive into the dishwasher, no matter which one. Not only that the heat and water disforms plastic and wooden handles, also is the heat absolute "Poison" for the hardness of the steel.
And the "screaming" of your knife is not because it's so dry, it comes from the regeneration-salt of the dishwasher, which is now scraping in the mechanism.
Because i am wearing spectacles, the ultrasonic-device is also a good solution for removing the "denim-sweat" 😊 (The dust of the jeans-pockets) To get a higher cleaning-power, you can add "Spüli" or a special cleaning fluid, but ultrasonic can't do "miracles".
WD40 or Ballistol is very good for removing resin, but also butter is a good stoff for this. And one another tip for polishing the scales is one special toothpaste. Most times the particles in toothpaste in combination with the tensides are too rough, but with "Ajona" i got quite good results.
For Polishing blades and/or tools i take a cotton-wheel in my electric handdrill and put some polish (white and blue) on it. Works pretty fine but of course also not "perfect". But also "Autosol" is allways a fine helper at polishing-tasks.
Thanks for showing your methods, that sure will be a great help for knive-maintaining, 👍I wish you a very fine weekend! LG
Danke für die vielen interessanten Tipps!
to prevent contaminating the solvent in an ultrasonic cleaner put your knife in a plastic zip loc bag with enough solvent to immerse the knife and discard the used solvent and bag when you are finished.
G'day Felix, "especially" good vid mate, well explained and shown with the various test cases.
The only blades that go into my dishwasher are one piece butter knives and dip spreaders ; )
Personally, I skip step 1 and 3 because ... I find WD-40 as a degreaser, caters for those aspects too and it hasn't had any adverse effect on my Ranger 78 insert material either, .... whatever composition that is ; ).
Nice toothbrush mod btw. Incidently, there are, (I think, bronze), bristled fine welding versions available for a bit more grunt, metal to metal without scratching.
Also, it pays to remove the toothpick and tweezers for cleaning IMO.
What I do last, is Step 1, (dishwashing soap and water), then rinse with pure water, followed by a final compressed air blow out;
A. to help remove any residual WD-40, metal paste and filings for potential food prep tasks and
B. as well as to avoid contaminating living plants when taking cuttings, doing grafting, and the like.
Oh yeah, and work in only a drop of light machine oil on the pivot points is enough lube after all that lot without getting it everywhere.
Cheers Duke.
P.S. I do own a Victorinox belt clip, so handy and well designed, and no weight or discomfort sitting horizontally, in the bottom of a groin pocket ..... I'm sure you know what I mean ; )
and a pouch to suit my Ranger 78, (for "buttocks" carry), not bad, but next time you speak with them, please suggest a proper stitched and/or riveted belt loop, rather than simple pass through slits ....... It'd be worth a couple of extra bucks I reckon.
Thank you very much for your super interesting comment!
It was mentioned about using solvents to clean the grime off.. I once used brake cleaning solvent, not thinking. Literally melted my scales. 😮
Hello! May i suggest interdental brushes or 0000 (finest) steelwool to be used with WD40 on scales and those narrow spaces? Also compressed air. And CapeCod polishing cloths, i polish my full metal G-Shock with it.
And a question: how to sharpen the woodsaw? I rather use a Leatherman Surge and a replaceable t-shank saw then a SAK or SwissTool being afraid ill damage the last ones.
Thank you.
Yes... to sharpen a SAK Woodsaw is in deed not easy... i make it like this: ua-cam.com/video/6vtErh2IZwI/v-deo.htmlsi=rLZOd5FY9Lvm74yZ
@@FelixImmler thank you.
Very informational video! I have a question though, what would you recommend doing when the scales on a SAK get loose (they don't fall off but they jiggle a little bit when you touch them)?
I would try to put a drop glue under the scale
@@FelixImmler Thanks a lot for the reply
Awesome! Kinda a boring topic but it has to be done now and then! Thanks for your test and work!
Alles recht und gut aber nach nur einem Apfel schneiden "klebt" die Klinge wieder und geht schon wieder etwas schwerer auf und zu.
Gibt es da etwas dagegen (Öl hilft auch nicht dauerhaft), auch das Original Victorinox Öl nicht.
Spucke hilft!
Schneide deinen Apfel so, dass der Saft Richtung Messerspitze läuft und nicht Richtung Scharnier. Ist ungewöhnlich, so ohne Schneidbrett und erfordert evtl. etwas Übung. Oder Du wickelst etwas Küchenpapier ums Talon und verhinderst so ein verkleben.
I always remove the scales and throw the whole knife into a pot with boiling distilled water for 5 minutes. After that a tiny drop of machine oil in every tool by using a syringe. My oldest knife is 30 years old and looks like new. Once it fell into the sea and hardened from salt. I rinse it with strong vinegar and then boiled it and everything was fine.
I'm not concerned about appearance, but several Trekkers will not open with one hand anymore after sitting for 18 months during my Chemotherapy. Any tips to make the blades open smoothly?
Wieder was für den Werkzeuģkasten,immer gut und interessant!
Danke für das Lob!
Thanks for the cleaning pointers.👍
Thanks for watching my friend!