You can do it! #howtoadjustselfclosingdoorhinges #howtoadjustselfclosingdoorhinge #howtoadjustspringloadeddoorhinge #howtoadjustspringloadeddoorhinges #howtoadjustaspringloadeddoorhinge #howtoinstallspringloadeddoorhinges #howdoIadjustaselfclosingdoorhinge #howdoIadjustselfclosingdoorhinge #howdoIadjustaspringloadeddoorhinge #howdoIadjustspringloadeddoorhinges
@@Skipbo000 Well believe it or not there was no allen wrench hole at the bottom of these particular spring loaded hinges. That's what was stumping me.....
Thank you for sharing this tip. You helped me not smash down my door after it has hit me in the ^% everytime I passed through it. Now, open, stays open until I've dragged in stuff, and then, I do have to actually latch it with a second effort because the garage air pressure pushes back on the door. Other spring hinges I used required a small allen key to hold the spring while moving the post. Thank you and keep the great tips coming.
Hey thanks for your message. The main reason to take the pressure off of these hinges is if you want to lower the pressure or remove the hinges to install new ones like if the old ones won't get any tighter to close your door properly. Here's the thing...if you remove all the pressure on the door hinges then you don't have a one hour rated wall/door opening & if you ever have a fire in the garage let's say, & the insurance company sees that the pressure has been removed from these hinges then they may not cover your fire damage & worse could happen even after that especially if smoke enters your home & someone gets injured or worse. What I would suggest to you is since the door was hitting your heels when closing then maybe just back off the pressure just a bit & leave it at that. Even if the door doesn't latch all the way with the garage pressure I would think it would still be per code if anything happens. Yes there is a fine line with the pressure to close this door especially if you have weatherstripping around the door. But my advice would be to add the pressure back onto these door hinges. You can do whatever you want but at least now you know the rest of the story & you get to decide on your own. Yes you can still close the door & latch the door just by pulling or pushing the door closed so if there ever was a fire what really could the insurance adjuster inspector really say...right? But then again the building code says you have to have a self closing door on the garage door as most if not all garage doors are one hour rated. There should be a 20 minute rated metal label on the side edge of your door or the top of the door as well as a metal label on the door jamb somewhere as well & the labels should say 20 minute rated door & 20 minute rated door jamb & the rest of the wall should be rated 1 hour as there should be 5/8" drywall installed on the garage wall where the door is installed. That's what they would then call a 1 hour rating for this wall & door assembly. That's why there should be weatherstripping around this door as well as self closing door hinges... Thanks again for stopping by with your message....
@@videojoeshows wow thanks for this information, I didn’t know that these automatically closing doors were there by fire code. I was was thinking about taking the pressure off for my elderly mom so she could get in and out of the garage easier while using her walker, but if these self closing doors are required I guess I’ll have to leave it the way it is. Thanks again.
@@BreakTime10101 I wish I could tell you it wasn't a code issue but really it is. If you will notice, your actual door should be a solid core door & there should be a label on the side edge where the door hinges are or on top of the door that says your door is a 20 minute rated door. Your door jamb should also have a label on it near the door hinges or the top edge of the door jamb that says the door jamb is also 20 minute rated. That will tell you that your door opening is a rated door opening thus the reason for self closing door hinges. It's something you will need to teach your Mother how to open the door in such a way to where she can still open far enough to then push her walker in thru the door. My Motha has the same issue but she manages...
Thanks for the video as it provided my long lost instructions on how to release the spring / re-tension the spring. In place of your nail idea I found one of my smaller finish nail setting tools fit perfectly in the hole and was strong enough to leverage the spring. Also a magnet tipped tool easily removed the pin each time I needed to work against that spring.
Thanks for this, this helped me figure out a similar old style hinge at my house. There was a standard screw on the bottom which was a red herring, but I essentially got it to work just how you did. I didn't use the pin though, I used two drill bits and only stuck hte pin in when I got it tight enough with the bits. I would've never figured it out without this video!
Dude thanks so much for your message & glad you were able to get it figured out. Way to go. I have more door videos on my channel that could assist further on all kinds of things related to door issues. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors. Thanks again for stopping by!
Thanks for posting this. I have to replace the weatherstrip on my garage entry door and have been hesitant knowing I will have to deal witih a lot of spring tension when the door comes off. Will this require lowering the tension to minimum before removing the hinges to take the door off? There are only top and bottom spring closers, the middle is standard.
Yes I would recommend taking the tension off first for sure. I have other videos for this & also installing door weatherstripping too. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there. Thanks for stopping by & good luck to you!
So glad this video helped you out! Thanks too for your kind message! I have a ton of DIY videos on my channel that will help you save money around the house. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down! You will save money & I will be there every step of the way. Need help anytime? Just send me a message. Keep it going...!
tried to install these because I failed a fire inspection. They screwed on fine but they were causing my door to hit the frame on the latch side.( not even close to closing) They are much fatter than the original hinges. So I had to put the original ones back in. Do I need to chisel or route out the hinge side frame to give these more room?
That's weird as all the ones I've ever seen are the same size as the existing door hinges. Measure the existing door hinges you have then remove one hinge & take to the hardware store & match up to the spring loaded hinges you want. I just recently purchased some from The Home Depot and they were the same size as the 4 inch hinges I had on the garage door going into a Condo. Check it out & let me know. You shouldn't have to mortise out the hinges any deeper as you had explained.....
Are you turning the right direction? If you turn it the wrong direction you will slow the door down. Try turning the other direction to see if you can make it close better. I have more of the same type of video for more learning. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there. If you still can't do it then you might want to think about changing out the hinges for new ones....let me know how you do &/or if you have questions. Thanks for stopping by!
Yes you will have to remove the entire door hinge. that's why I would suggest to remove the spring loaded tension first before you unscrew the door hinge. You might need to have someone assist you since the door will be heavy & awkward to remove on your own....unless you only have one spring loaded hinge for the middle door hinge like some doors or...if you have an 8 foot tall door where you will still have at least two regular door hinges still left on the door.....see what I mean? You can do it! I have a ton of door videos on my channel for more learning. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists then scroll down to doors & you will find them all there. Thanks again for stopping by Dog!
Geez not sure what the actual size is but make sure your allen wrench fits in there nice & tight & not a sloppy fitting one so it doesn't slip off when tightening for sure. Thanks for stopping by! I have other videos that show you more for these hinges if you want to see more. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors. Thanks again for stopping by!
If this hinge does not need an allen wrench to adjust it then how would you go about adjusting this spring loaded hinge? I've always been able to figure out how to adjust spring loaded hinges except for this time? what's the trick?
Glad you just learned something new! I have more videos of these hinges to learn more. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists then scroll down to doors & they will be in there. Thanks for stopping by!
Actually it wasn't upside down as I looked under the hinge at bottom & nothing there as well. Apparently these are older type spring loaded hinges that didn't have any adjustments but I would think they wouldn't sell such a thing as you always need to adjust these hinges depending on your existing conditions. I have never heard of such things without the adjustment capabilities....weird!
@@videojoeshows Hm... Good to know. By the way, if you see a screw on top or bottom, chances are it's a lock screw and you may try open it to see the hex-wrench place right there. But I like the first one better lol. Keep that as a rare item, though. You never know someone is going to be interested in buying that with 10, 100 times its price lol.
You can do it!
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#howdoIadjustaselfclosingdoorhinge
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#howdoIadjustspringloadeddoorhinges
@@Skipbo000 Well believe it or not there was no allen wrench hole at the bottom of these particular spring loaded hinges. That's what was stumping me.....
Thank you for sharing this tip. You helped me not smash down my door after it has hit me in the ^% everytime I passed through it. Now, open, stays open until I've dragged in stuff, and then, I do have to actually latch it with a second effort because the garage air pressure pushes back on the door. Other spring hinges I used required a small allen key to hold the spring while moving the post. Thank you and keep the great tips coming.
Hey thanks for your message. The main reason to take the pressure off of these hinges is if you want to lower the pressure or remove the hinges to install new ones like if the old ones won't get any tighter to close your door properly. Here's the thing...if you remove all the pressure on the door hinges then you don't have a one hour rated wall/door opening & if you ever have a fire in the garage let's say, & the insurance company sees that the pressure has been removed from these hinges then they may not cover your fire damage & worse could happen even after that especially if smoke enters your home & someone gets injured or worse. What I would suggest to you is since the door was hitting your heels when closing then maybe just back off the pressure just a bit & leave it at that. Even if the door doesn't latch all the way with the garage pressure I would think it would still be per code if anything happens. Yes there is a fine line with the pressure to close this door especially if you have weatherstripping around the door. But my advice would be to add the pressure back onto these door hinges. You can do whatever you want but at least now you know the rest of the story & you get to decide on your own. Yes you can still close the door & latch the door just by pulling or pushing the door closed so if there ever was a fire what really could the insurance adjuster inspector really say...right? But then again the building code says you have to have a self closing door on the garage door as most if not all garage doors are one hour rated. There should be a 20 minute rated metal label on the side edge of your door or the top of the door as well as a metal label on the door jamb somewhere as well & the labels should say 20 minute rated door & 20 minute rated door jamb & the rest of the wall should be rated 1 hour as there should be 5/8" drywall installed on the garage wall where the door is installed. That's what they would then call a 1 hour rating for this wall & door assembly. That's why there should be weatherstripping around this door as well as self closing door hinges... Thanks again for stopping by with your message....
@@videojoeshows wow thanks for this information, I didn’t know that these automatically closing doors were there by fire code. I was was thinking about taking the pressure off for my elderly mom so she could get in and out of the garage easier while using her walker, but if these self closing doors are required I guess I’ll have to leave it the way it is. Thanks again.
@@BreakTime10101 I wish I could tell you it wasn't a code issue but really it is. If you will notice, your actual door should be a solid core door & there should be a label on the side edge where the door hinges are or on top of the door that says your door is a 20 minute rated door. Your door jamb should also have a label on it near the door hinges or the top edge of the door jamb that says the door jamb is also 20 minute rated. That will tell you that your door opening is a rated door opening thus the reason for self closing door hinges. It's something you will need to teach your Mother how to open the door in such a way to where she can still open far enough to then push her walker in thru the door. My Motha has the same issue but she manages...
@@videojoeshows thanks for the information.
@@BreakTime10101 Thumbs up for sure...
Thanks for the video as it provided my long lost instructions on how to release the spring / re-tension the spring. In place of your nail idea I found one of my smaller finish nail setting tools fit perfectly in the hole and was strong enough to leverage the spring. Also a magnet tipped tool easily removed the pin each time I needed to work against that spring.
Nice going. Glad this video reminded you....
Thanks for this, this helped me figure out a similar old style hinge at my house. There was a standard screw on the bottom which was a red herring, but I essentially got it to work just how you did. I didn't use the pin though, I used two drill bits and only stuck hte pin in when I got it tight enough with the bits. I would've never figured it out without this video!
Dude thanks so much for your message & glad you were able to get it figured out. Way to go. I have more door videos on my channel that could assist further on all kinds of things related to door issues. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors. Thanks again for stopping by!
Thanks for posting this. I have to replace the weatherstrip on my garage entry door and have been hesitant knowing I will have to deal witih a lot of spring tension when the door comes off. Will this require lowering the tension to minimum before removing the hinges to take the door off? There are only top and bottom spring closers, the middle is standard.
Yes I would recommend taking the tension off first for sure. I have other videos for this & also installing door weatherstripping too. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there. Thanks for stopping by & good luck to you!
You're the best, seriously, this helped me immensely 🙏💞
So glad this video helped you out! Thanks too for your kind message! I have a ton of DIY videos on my channel that will help you save money around the house. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down! You will save money & I will be there every step of the way. Need help anytime? Just send me a message. Keep it going...!
tried to install these because I failed a fire inspection. They screwed on fine but they were causing my door to hit the frame on the latch side.( not even close to closing) They are much fatter than the original hinges. So I had to put the original ones back in. Do I need to chisel or route out the hinge side frame to give these more room?
That's weird as all the ones I've ever seen are the same size as the existing door hinges. Measure the existing door hinges you have then remove one hinge & take to the hardware store & match up to the spring loaded hinges you want. I just recently purchased some from The Home Depot and they were the same size as the 4 inch hinges I had on the garage door going into a Condo. Check it out & let me know. You shouldn't have to mortise out the hinges any deeper as you had explained.....
My door slams too hard , lol try adjusting but , no luck
Are you turning the right direction? If you turn it the wrong direction you will slow the door down. Try turning the other direction to see if you can make it close better. I have more of the same type of video for more learning. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors & they will be in there. If you still can't do it then you might want to think about changing out the hinges for new ones....let me know how you do &/or if you have questions. Thanks for stopping by!
So you have to remove the entire hinge to take the door off eh? I can't find any answers on google.
Yes you will have to remove the entire door hinge. that's why I would suggest to remove the spring loaded tension first before you unscrew the door hinge. You might need to have someone assist you since the door will be heavy & awkward to remove on your own....unless you only have one spring loaded hinge for the middle door hinge like some doors or...if you have an 8 foot tall door where you will still have at least two regular door hinges still left on the door.....see what I mean? You can do it! I have a ton of door videos on my channel for more learning. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists then scroll down to doors & you will find them all there. Thanks again for stopping by Dog!
What size is the Allen is the wrench sae or metric?
Geez not sure what the actual size is but make sure your allen wrench fits in there nice & tight & not a sloppy fitting one so it doesn't slip off when tightening for sure. Thanks for stopping by! I have other videos that show you more for these hinges if you want to see more. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists & scroll down to doors. Thanks again for stopping by!
This hinge does not come or need an allan key. Further more the bottom hinge is upside down.
If this hinge does not need an allen wrench to adjust it then how would you go about adjusting this spring loaded hinge? I've always been able to figure out how to adjust spring loaded hinges except for this time? what's the trick?
Hindi me videos banao
😲 never knew this!
Glad you just learned something new! I have more videos of these hinges to learn more. Just go to my main UA-cam channel page then click on playlists then scroll down to doors & they will be in there. Thanks for stopping by!
Because it’s upside down :/ . Bruh…
Actually it wasn't upside down as I looked under the hinge at bottom & nothing there as well. Apparently these are older type spring loaded hinges that didn't have any adjustments but I would think they wouldn't sell such a thing as you always need to adjust these hinges depending on your existing conditions. I have never heard of such things without the adjustment capabilities....weird!
@@videojoeshows Hm... Good to know. By the way, if you see a screw on top or bottom, chances are it's a lock screw and you may try open it to see the hex-wrench place right there. But I like the first one better lol. Keep that as a rare item, though. You never know someone is going to be interested in buying that with 10, 100 times its price lol.
@@thachhoanglengoc4229 I've never seen one as you have described with the lock screw.