I was searching for any ideas in YT to have a permanent M8 threaded bar end in my handlebar or anything similar, which would greatly benefit in terms of timesaving in adjusting and tweaking the handlebar setup. By transitioning from anchor down inserts to a threaded bar end, it becomes effortlessly accessible to the necessary parts of the handlebar assembly for maintenance, repairs, or component replacements, simply by unscrewing and then screwing it back. Consequently, there is no need to waste additional time realigning or readjusting the bar end inserts after completing the maintenance work. Moreover, this becomes particularly advantageous if you frequently require maintenance on the handlebar components. To all viewers reading this, Seat Time demonstrates that it is possible to complete the task even without essential items such as threading lube and a threading tap. So, what are you waiting for? Show some love for the improvisation by liking and subscribe now! Maybe, in order to enhance the installation process, I would suggest tapping both sides first before installing the threaded adapter and bar end. This action will create an exit point on the opposite side of the bar end, ensuring easy removal of any metal shavings when air is blown through. Maybe. These are just my thoughts.
We used to use rubbing alcohol on aluminum in a machine shop I worked at. Shop vac with a taped on tube, after the alcohol evaporates to not make a mess in your bars.
The bars that come with KTMs recently don't work well with the kits. I tried both my 13 and 22. The bit drills the clutch side or the throttle. One side of the bar is bit thinner (don't recall which) and it's hard to get the tap to catch to make threads. On on both of those bikes the bars are stock and the same thing happened. One side is tapped and one is not. That said I didn't use the BRP kit, but both were the same on my kit.
@@anthonyborean2954 I was not the only one! I thought it was just me getting weirded out odd things. I've thought about replacing with some protaper bars with a different bend. I have an XC gear and under mount scotts. Give about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch rise. I've thought about a flatter bend to get it back to stock. I do like them raised though I think. I think those would likely be the same thickness and I could solid mount like that, but I'm not to super concerned about it. Run both of them them way. I tried the 22 thinking it wouldn't do what the 13 did.
XC Gear has lowered mounts and the Astra handlebars really do get you into a better riding position (I feel). Bar risers, or taller handlebars, sit you up too much, not allowing you to get your weight over the front of the bike (even when in the attack position).
@@SeatTime With the steering damper I get a bit of rise. I do have a long torso, but its comfortable, but I don't notice much in the way of having an issue getting weight forward, but I'm mostly a sit down rider honestly. In the more open stuff I can stand (like west TX), but have a harder time in tighter stuff. I've really thought about a flatter bend though to put the handlebars to the stock location.
The minis have no bark buster ends that fit in their little bars, me and most mini dads I know have to thread directly into the bar end. There is an opportunity for someone to make these for the little bars.
I was searching for any ideas in YT to have a permanent M8 threaded bar end in my handlebar or anything similar, which would greatly benefit in terms of timesaving in adjusting and tweaking the handlebar setup. By transitioning from anchor down inserts to a threaded bar end, it becomes effortlessly accessible to the necessary parts of the handlebar assembly for maintenance, repairs, or component replacements, simply by unscrewing and then screwing it back. Consequently, there is no need to waste additional time realigning or readjusting the bar end inserts after completing the maintenance work. Moreover, this becomes particularly advantageous if you frequently require maintenance on the handlebar components.
To all viewers reading this, Seat Time demonstrates that it is possible to complete the task even without essential items such as threading lube and a threading tap. So, what are you waiting for? Show some love for the improvisation by liking and subscribe now!
Maybe, in order to enhance the installation process, I would suggest tapping both sides first before installing the threaded adapter and bar end. This action will create an exit point on the opposite side of the bar end, ensuring easy removal of any metal shavings when air is blown through. Maybe. These are just my thoughts.
Thanks for the words, and I'm glad you found us!
I was a machinist 15 years ,well done. Brap on
Thanks!
Another great video from seat time! Keep it up, see you soon!
Heck yeah man, We're excited to see you at your birthday party!!!!
We used to use rubbing alcohol on aluminum in a machine shop I worked at. Shop vac with a taped on tube, after the alcohol evaporates to not make a mess in your bars.
Dang, crazy! But if it works, work it.
Terrible lubricant for a tap. Basically using nothing at that poinf
The bars that come with KTMs recently don't work well with the kits. I tried both my 13 and 22. The bit drills the clutch side or the throttle. One side of the bar is bit thinner (don't recall which) and it's hard to get the tap to catch to make threads. On on both of those bikes the bars are stock and the same thing happened. One side is tapped and one is not. That said I didn't use the BRP kit, but both were the same on my kit.
Also, cool side effect of the fast footage is as your turning the tap you can watch the shark bite on the XC gear work.
I also was unable to thread my stock KTM bars, I had the same experience as you
@@anthonyborean2954 I was not the only one! I thought it was just me getting weirded out odd things. I've thought about replacing with some protaper bars with a different bend. I have an XC gear and under mount scotts. Give about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch rise. I've thought about a flatter bend to get it back to stock. I do like them raised though I think. I think those would likely be the same thickness and I could solid mount like that, but I'm not to super concerned about it. Run both of them them way. I tried the 22 thinking it wouldn't do what the 13 did.
XC Gear has lowered mounts and the Astra handlebars really do get you into a better riding position (I feel). Bar risers, or taller handlebars, sit you up too much, not allowing you to get your weight over the front of the bike (even when in the attack position).
@@SeatTime With the steering damper I get a bit of rise. I do have a long torso, but its comfortable, but I don't notice much in the way of having an issue getting weight forward, but I'm mostly a sit down rider honestly. In the more open stuff I can stand (like west TX), but have a harder time in tighter stuff. I've really thought about a flatter bend though to put the handlebars to the stock location.
The minis have no bark buster ends that fit in their little bars, me and most mini dads I know have to thread directly into the bar end. There is an opportunity for someone to make these for the little bars.
No that's a GREAT idea! Thanks for sharing!!! Enjoy #GettingSeattime & Stay #Stoked! 🤘🏻🤙🏻⚡️
You will never go back
I already feel you are correct.