Benefits of summer pruning
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- With the pears in flower, I can reveal the results of the previous round of summer pruning. Although apples and pears are often pruned in the winter, when the trees are dormant, this is not always the best approach, especially for restricted forms such as cordons, espaliers, and fans. A tree responds differently when pruned in summer than it does in winter, and the summer pruning is important to encourage the development of fruit buds - as one can see from the abundance of blossom in this video. I have two guides that cover summer and winter pruning:
For summer pruning: • Summer pruning of cord...
For winter pruning: • Winter pruning of cord...
People actually interested in gardening and learning like longer, detailed and more educational videos. There are thousands of short snappy how to videos out there for those who want that. Keep doing what you're doing 👌
Thank you! It’s good to hear that there are still people that like a more substantial video and as you say there are lots of short videos out there 👍 Besides, I don’t think I can make short videos any more 😂
I very much enjoy the chatting, I can listen and learn. I've just started learning to train fruit trees to keep them in a small yard, so this is all excellent stuff. Thank you!
That's great :)
I actually really like your videos, I end up with a entirely better understanding of what I am trying to do with pruning in different sort of situations (position, what buds are already there etc) than anyone else's videos.
Thank you so much :)
Johnny, Please carry on the way you do things, I do LEARN a lot from you. Thanks for all your very interesting Vlogs👍👌😁. Please take care 🙏
Thank you very much - glad you found them useful :)
Another great video for me because I've got so much to learn. I didn't have any fruit trees except a miserable old plum that was here when we moved in and it occasionally gave literally a handful of fruit that the wasps enjoyed. I found your videos and followed your pruning tutorials and last year we had so much fruit which I made into delicious jams and chutneys. Only then did I discover it's actually a greengage. I'd been leaving the few fruits on the tree to ripen because they were still green but they were never going to be anything other than green!! I told you I have a lot to learn. Anyway, we now have a couple of pear trees, another greengage and a cherry and all are doing well thanks to your videos and inspiration.
That’s great! So glad you have found them helpful 😀 A good greengage is one of the very finest of plums - so rich and sweet when ripe and makes a great jam too so I’m sure that was delicious 👍😋
Omg I love your videos and if people don’t like them they don’t need to watch 😂😂. I love a waffle I come for info and stay for the giggles. Hope the storm is kind have a great week Jonny of the Waffle 🧇
Thank you, as always :) Nothing too serious this time, although we have a tree surgeon coming tomorrow to take a look at one of the firs along our drive that is listing to starboard - hoping it stays put until they can cut it down safely - I think it might be in range of the house... 🤔
Valuable information on pruning/training of stone trees. Would love to hear from you on the subject for plum trees the way you did on peach tree.
Thanks :) I have a few videos where I look at the formative pruning of plum fans, but perhaps the most useful might be the one where I tackle an apricot fan - they are pruned in essentially the same way - ua-cam.com/video/oOcvo8Y-BIg/v-deo.html.
Your videos are spot on. Making it short doesn't make a complicated easier to understand. Pruning stone fruit has been the hardest thing I have ever done in the garden. Espalier apple and pear is very easy but fan trained stone fruit is so difficult.
Thank you :) You are quite tight - the stone fruits are definitely more challenging than the apples and pears.
Hi Jonny, nothing wrong with a bit of waffle😂😂
You got the points across. I am still learning about my pears. I have two on small root stock cc omice and concord. Comics flower much earlier.
Best gardening wishes Malgosia and Nigel 🌱😊🌱💚
That's interesting. I think comice should be flowering quite a bit later than concorde. Cross pollination is probably not ideal between them. If there aren't any other pears trees in the neighbourhood you might want to introduce one that flowers in between comice and concorde so that it can help pollinate both. Concorde (like its parent, conference) is partially self-fertile so will probably produce a crop without, but the quality and size of the crop will almost certainly be improved with good cross pollination. Comice is not at all self-fertile so needs that cross pollination. It's a great pear, though 👍
@@jonnyskitchengarden that explains why concord cropped so well last year but comics didn't. Would you have a suggestion for the in-between 🍐? I have two hives of bees so let's keep them busy.
Best gardening wishes Malgosia and Nigel
Personally, I would probably go for Beurre Hardy. It is a very fine dessert pear with sweet, succulent flesh and a somewhat perfumed aroma. I double checked the flowering times and it appears well suited to the task, starting a few days earlier than Comice but flowering over a longer period. It is listed as a suitable pollination partner for both Comice and Concorde; the latter will be a few days ahead but there should be sufficient overlap, I think, for reasonable cross pollination and it should do a good job for your Comice. There will be numerous other options, of course, but that would be my choice - indeed, I have it in my row of cordons! Your bees will do a fine job on it :)
@@jonnyskitchengarden thank you for taking the time and answer so promptly. I will go with the recommendation.
Best wishes Malgosia
Brilliant video jonny and just in time I planted two pear trees a few months ago one is quite old dug it up and moved it from a job I didn't think it would have survive buy its full of flowers now, keep the videos coming as they are great work mate have a fantastic week
Thanks! It's a funny thing with moving plants - sometimes they object and sometimes they thrive... sometimes a little bit of stress is good for encouraging fruiting!
Delighted with the "waffle". Came across your channel looking for advice on pruning espalier and fan fruit trees. Thank you.
Thanks! :)
PFFT they can go off and find another channel. I like my morning visits with you. Nice chat over coffee. Waffle-faff away! (BTW my dwarf cherry tree is just into bloom, for the first time in EIGHT years!)
That's what I thought - I can't remember the last time I did a 5 minute video - I can't help myself 😂 Yay for the dwarf cherry... eight years is more patience than I would have had, I think! Hope you get to enjoy some fruit :)
@@jonnyskitchengarden The tree always looked great, it was always just poor timing with pollinators, hail, freezes, etc. So she can stay. SHe's 11 years old and only barely 4 feet tall.
Challenging conditions for a cherry tree (or anything that grows!). Definitely dwarfing - 4' after 11 years isn't exactly rushing!
Love your videos, have learned a lot, thks
Thank you :)
Great video Jonny. It would be great to see how the cordons develop through the year. What varieties do you have? I have some apple cordons on an east facing fence - I grafted them myself to give whips but they have developed with few laterals even though I ‘tipped’them every year? Any thoughts of how I could encourage more side branching? Knotching?
I have a mixture of older varieties, mostly from France and Belgium. How much did you cut them back each year? I suspect it wasn't enough to help with bud break. Are they vertical? It is difficult once established to improve the situation but you could try notching. As you probably know, this involves making a small cut above the buds you would like to encourage to develop - obviously with care not to cause too much damage to the stem as a whole. If you are going to try that, you would probably have to do it right now. Otherwise, you could shorten the main stem more substantially. Both approaches aim to tackle apical dominance - one by interfering with the flow of growth inhibiting hormones to the bud, the other by removing the dominant shoot or shoots and reducing the length of stem (the inhibiting effect is stronger further down the stem and less so near the top), though new shoots will take over in due course.
Thanks for the video. It came at a great time. I have just set a cordon of mixed fruit trees running east to west with a 6 foot fence protecting the fruit/trees from the north wind.
Would you recommend for the first year taking the blossom off so the roots can get established?
Nothing wrong with a bit of waffle, how many gardners do not talk to then self when they are gardening, Guilty. Forgot this, should have doe this?
I generally plant young bare root trees, which do not usually flower in the first season. If yours were bare root plants but have flowers, I would not let them set fruit, although in all likelihood they will shed most or all of it. If they came in pots it's a little different, but I think it would still be a good idea to do as you suggested and remove the flowers. It would probably be a good idea to limit any crop next year too - it takes a while before a tree can carry a full crop without either shedding lots of it along the way or producing smaller and rather inferior fruit.
Regarding the comments about you talk too much well I just published a short video (2 min 30) with zero talking and the reaction (likes and comments) is the lowest for ages. I think you have to make videos you like making and viewers will either like it or not and at 2.32K subscribers a lot of people must like your style. Great commentary on the summer pruning as for others to learn from.
Thanks! You're quite right - there is room for a bit of everything on this platform :)