Trolls will always be there. They do not allow for the interests, proclivities, or styles of others, and tend to be too self righteous to just let it be. I know there are people out there that dislike you because they feel you are not fussy enough, thinking that a machinist needs to always be tool-maker/aerospace-critical. They don't understand that making something work , and oneself happy, is all that is required. keep it up, Mr. Pete. I'm sure we are all looking forward to the Next Last VFD video! ;-) Edit - Yes... DO leave this video up.
No Vibration Worries with TECO VFDs I'm a bit late to this comment stream, but I've enjoyed Mr Pete's series here and found it extremely useful. I work in the IT and Electronics industry as a validation engineer, and have some pretty in-depth first hand knowledge validating the TECO brand of 120V thru 440V VFDs for 3ph conversion as well as several other brands and designs. You have no worries here... these are hearty little buggers that should offer up no problems whatsoever even above the vibration level apparent on Mr Pete's drill press application. I've tested numerous TECO VFD designs, including the older FM50-101-C as well as this JNEV-101-H1 at hugely higher levels of vibration both in simulation and in actual application over many hundreds of hours with virtually no issues. I don't work for Westinghouse, but I also have no problem recommending these without hesitation... primarily because of both the price and the programability. Not sure where the vibration-issue rumor got started... probably because this has always been a concern since the dawn of vacuum tube technology (LOL), but today most if not all modern digital electronic applications are tested very thoroughly for stability and reliability both in vibration and in thermal applications. In general, it's the heat and not vibration that will kill electronic designs. As long as you keep these units fairly cool, they'll be OK. Don't worry about shop tool vibration issues. Rule of thumb - if you can hold your hand on the unit for 30 seconds and not be overly uncomfortable, it will be fine thermally. From a vibration standpoint, if it doesn't die within the first 10 minutes of running under full load (highest level of vibration) it's good to go. These are great little hearty VFD units! Hope that eases some application concerns out there.
I would not delete this video as it is seems to be a critical part of the series in that it shows what actually worked and why with a good demonstration of the the VFDs ability. Trolls are folks with nothing better to do and just trying get a reaction from you. They can also be annoying with inane comments and questions not even caring about your answer and to only ask another annoying question from any answer.
My understanding of a troll is a person who posts negative comments in the hopes of baiting some one into posting a reply, thus validating their opinion. They are trolling for a reply, or spoiling for a fight, so to speak, as a way of getting their jollies. I do not think some one leaving a thumbs down would qualify, since the rating system is anonymous. Thanks for the video Mr. Pete, I have referenced you in more than one of my videos as being some one worth watching, and when I finish my SIPP drill press restoration, I'll definitely be including a video of me adding a $16 tachometer, thanks to your heads up on the subject.
Thank you Mr. Pete for the wrap-up of your VFD project.. Pay absolutely no attention to the negative comments. I have read that there are people commonly called "trolls" that like to give a negative comment to almost everything they watch. It is their way of leaving their pathetic "mark" on UA-cam.
Thanks for taking the time and making videos, I've learned some things from you. Most VFDs have a row of terminals to hook up remote switches, like on, stop, forward, and reverse. Usually these will take no power. They usually have pictorial symbols showing what's what and how to connect. Also I've seen lots of these hooked up so that operators hit an e-stop switch that kill all power to the VFD, like when you flip your toggle switch, and I've never seen any damage caused by it. BUT as always, the manufacturer of the VFD should be the one followed, not an old retired man like me that has never seen that brand and hasn't touched any of those things in many years. These things vary greatly from one manufacturer to another. Also some have to go into programming mode and set some bits to turn off local panel and turn on remote switches. As always, pay no attention to the old guy on the keyboard. Sometimes I just like throwing characters on the screen. Donald
Mr. Pete I found this video very informative and I enjoyed it as a follow up video to #149. You might want to think about leaving it up so others at a later date can see what you've done to improve your torque. As to an internet troll, they spew vile wherever they go. I can only guess what their motives must be but I think the only joy the must get in life is bringing others down. The best tactic for them is to ignore them. You can't get rid of them and if you feed them(commenting back) it only makes things worse.
Your videos about VFDs inspired me to install one on my drill press. Thanks for sharing your knowledge so freely on you tube! Here's a little tour of my drill press: Jet J-2550 Drill Press Modifications
The "problem" - which isn't a problem for Mr Pete, as he's said - is that these cheap Chinese VFDs do not have vector control. A proper vector control would not let the motor stall out within it's capability. There's some newer "sensorless" VFDs out there that work really well in this application. They do cost a little more, however. Great video!
Love your videos Mr. Pete...I've learned a lot. Regarding trolls...other commenters have described them accurately. I think the term originates less from the, "troll" who lives under a bridge and more from the fishing term. They're, "trolling" for a conflict.
Also, the jury is out on the Bridgeport, then. But: hey forget that. the question is why are people people? you got 9000 watchers. Im 71 and still learning. Youve worked hard and it is appreciated. teaching surveying many yrs ago, I caught an entire ethnic group cheating on midterm, I failed them all. Dean said Mr H what are you going to do with no students? Go home then I replied, they got what they made. Just people. my best.
I hooked up a VFD to my Clausing lathe. It works great but I didn't like reaching in back of the lathe to turn it on or off. I found out that you could hook up the on/off function remotely. So I connected 20 gauge wires to the old barrel switch. Now it works like it did originally with the lever in front of the lathe.
Dont bother about some few thumbs downs. I dont think I have seen any video without thumbs downs even if they are blowing my mind out of greatness. Some people are just strange and you have probably met these in real life also. They tend to notice more on the internet. Dont bother about them. Enjoy all the people that likes what you do.
Re: your observation about trolls: please, please ignore them. While you wouldn't classify me as a machinist by any stretch, I am a dabbler, and I find your videos priceless. I am astounded, and grateful, that you're willing to share your knowledge and expertise with a bunch of strangers. Please carry on.
Don't know if anybody answered this for you yet, but the VFD has the low voltage control circuit that you can wire to a 3 position knob for Forward-Off-Reverse. I have a 3HP Teco VFD on my 9x49 Jet Mill and I used the factory 3 position rotary knob on the mill to control the VFD. You do not put any switches between the VFD and the Motor. I enjoy your videos and have learned lots, so hopefully I can return the favor sharing some of my own experience.
Mr. Pete, some of the smaller screws, s1,s2,s3 com are used for switches, you can use a set to make a run/stop and unwire rewire one of your existing switches to use or another switch, you will have to define the input in the vfd for external run stop, change sw1 to npn, set location #4 to 1 for external run stop, a switch between s1 and com, this should be enough to get you started, Tj
Thanks for sharing so much info on VFD's! I had considered one for my Bridgeport mill a couple of years back - more for the phase conversion (mill was a variable speed) than the speed control. Mostly due to my own lack of knowledge on them, I ended up building my own rotary phase converter, which works great aside from being a little noisy. I think now though that VFD's are cheaper and better and also offer a lot more features than just the 3 ph power source.
Trolls are people that leave comments or dislikes solely for the purpose of ruining your day. And you really make their day if you take time to respond to their negative comments because that is what they are after, attention.
Love the VFD and I will for sure get one for my Bridgeport. I picked up a piece of advice when it comes to running the VFD on low rpm. If you do a lot of drilling or milling or what ever on low speed for a long time, you should think about making some kind of cooling on the motor. The low rpm and the high torque is not a good combination since the motor can not cool it self. 12 v heavy duty computer fan or one lie you'll find in small welders should do fine. Cheaper than a burnt motor. And yes the elecronics should be mounted , if not off the machine, at least shielded from dust. Good elecronics can take a lot of vibration but on the wall would be the ultimate place to hang it. Thanks Mr Pete for another nice video.
Try Newton Tesla over here in the UK for remote station, they have at least two types, as I believe different converters work slightly differently. I do not know which side of the converter you have the toggle switch wired to but believe it is on the inverter feed side, which is I believe should be okay, though as you say powering the inverter down a thousand times may prove to be ill advised, the instructions for the inverters I have say in bold type "do not under any circumstances wire any switch between the inverter and the motor, that includes double pole reversing switches" the inverter must always see the motor when powered up.
Great vid, much interest in vfd technology these days for mills, lathes, drills. I myself would like to understand the technology better. Besides being able to recycle more motors for our home shop use the speed control and especially low speed seems to be an real advantage. I have heard 3ph on a mill for example will even smooth out the cutting action on the work creating a finer finish. Thanks again for the continued flow of solid information in a way that is friendly and educational. Trolls,....like bugs on the windshield during a trip, only foul things up till the next gas stop, then you just wash em off. Unfortunately, they are simply part of the journey.
Looking at the manual for the TECO 7300EV (I assume that is what you have, looks like it) I can tell a few things. RA - RB are switch contacts you can use to turn on the RPM module. Program "F21" for "013" to tell the unit to close these switch contacts upon power on (or select another mode from the chart). Using three "push button" switches (like doorbell switches) "normally open contact type" wire one side of each to the "COM" terminal. Wire the other side to "S1", "S2", "S3" on each switch respectfully. Program "F11" for "000" (forward), "F12" for "001" (Reverse) and "F13" for "006" (Emergency Stop) You can also add a fourth button to "S4" "F14" and choose another function from the list. The "DC" connections are for the braking resistor and not a source of DC power. One good source for switches: www.mpja.com/Panel-Mount-Push-Button-Switches/products/293/ Do not use your power switch (on the DP) to turn the system on-off. By doing so, with the motor running, it can break the VFD. I would not worry about any vibration on the VFD. These units are made for such environments and tested for vibration. Can it happen? Sure! But you may also find a bag full of money on the street corner!
Check your manual. The wiring diagram will show the connections for the low voltage direction forward/off/reverse switch. If you relocate the original power switch and replace it with almost any spdt switch, this could do the forward/reverse in the original on of switch location.
Try the Twist Lock belt (you can get them from McMaster Carr ) they eliminated the vibration I had in my old mill. The stop and start should also be controlled thru the vfd via a switch. The vfd sat work are on 24/7 and give us a long service life on motors from 1/2 to 250 hp.
One of the other guys on youtube showed a VFD whose face is "detatchable." I wouldn't call it detachable since control panel needs to be tethered via a cable, but it would probably allow the unit to be mounted off of the drill press to avoid the vibration on the main unit. They look more expensive than the unit you got. Do an internet search on "automation direct vfd gs2" to see the one the guy talked about in his video. Thanks for the information you provided in your series on the VFD and your other videos.
I used a slightly larger TECO VFD for my Bridgeport, I too was disappointed in the lack of torque at low speed. The VFD I have on my Monarch lathe has a removable panel that can be remotely be mounted via CAT5 cable
One other point, I have several Mitsubishi VFD's of various models and the instructions on each advise against disconnecting the load without first hitting stop and the same goes for switching off the supply to the VFD without first pressing stop. Maybe once you have the remote stop/start set up you will get out of the habit of reaching for the old on off switch :-)
It is normal if not recommended, to switch the power off to the VFD. Just make sure you do bot try to cut power to the tool, by shutting off power to the vfd. I had mentioned it before when I recommended re-installing the jackshaft, that you could use your existing switch to turn the tool off and on.....you don't need to buy a special switch. You may want to buy a roker type switch from Radio shack to control the forward reverse. I had set up numerous VFD's, and have the exact same model. If you like....I could instruct the wiring to make both switchs work, and where and how to set the VFD parameters to get it done, however, I will not post it here......only if you want the info. Jim
mrpete222 Fully agree with Jim Liechty, The VFD life cycle will be decreased a lot if VFD power is connected and disconnected many times. It is OK once a day but not for stopping and starting motor. Short explanation In section 6 of TECO operating manual: "Do not use the circuit breaker as the run/stop switch for the inverter." Long explanation involves a Capacitor Bank and a Safety Discharge Power Resistor in VFD. Most of your audience will not be interested as they are machinists; not electronic engineers. Hope you have already installed the forward/reverse Rocker or Toggle switch successfully (Function 04 & 06) There is also an external Remote LED Keypad for Techo ev VFDs (Google SDOP-LED-2M). Expensive though ($50).
Nice videos mrpete. Concerning torque eficiency I have one sugestion: use a motor with many poles. I built a poters whell using a 10 pole 1/4hp motor and did not feel any big limitation on torque at low speeds.
I also like you oil can 😊 Between my controller and my DC motor (with brush) I had to install a Double pole double throw switch to activate the reverse on my Bridgeport. This is the idea. But I am not familiar with all those 3 phases motor and I don't know if that kind of switch could be install on you motor. I did not have a switch on my PB when I bought it. So I install a dc motor (1HP). But when setting -up the head to reverse, it did not work. There was missing a gear somewhere. So, I install that DPDT switch. Cost few dollars only and a plastic box.n I just have to take care to not reverse the switch when the motor is running. I didn't have to buy an electronic switch that fit into the controller at 200-300 $. Because I have brushes onto the motor, That is the explanation I received. Don't know why, so I take care to shutdown the controller before reversing the switch. Thanks for showing. Warm regards
Seeing the machine vibrate at 300RPM - that is some significant vibration. The little VFD is probably not specified for that. In mid term this will cause all sorts of problems. E.g. it will damage the soldering on the PCB, the connections between the parts and the solder come loose. There will be hairline cracks in the copper traces on the PCB itself. Just to name some of the usual suspects. Decoupling is key here. When you do that, make sure that you use flexible leads to connect vibrating and static parts. There specific cables for that purpose, if you want to bequeath the machine to your grand kids...
great ingenuity. I ponder having a stall is better than heat tempering a surface into melting bits... bits go slower than most realize, must be the hand drills we all get first..spinning at 3500rpm right out of the box.
Rely cool upgrade for drillpress, i'm thinking about ad all set to may new drillpress :D I do not need converter but speed control and tachometer. Very informative series of videos. Greetings from PolandNICK
THree phase motors are called inductive or squirrel cage - they have no commutator and no capacitors starting switch and other maintenance headaches. On "line fed" motors to reverse rotation you need reversing switches or relays to switch two phases. Yes a double pole double throw switch would work on small motors say 1/2 HP above that I would use contactors. In this setup let motor come to complete stop before switch rotation. Do not CRASH REVERSE or PLUG brake except in emergency - very hard on switch contacts and possibly the gear train of driven equipment. The VFD will switch the phases for you provided you install FWD REV switches in the control circuits. In this case you need either two single pole single throw or a single pole double throw. REVERSING with VFD and why OK - the VFD will brake motor to stop then reverse two phases and speed it back up to whatever speed you have set on the "speed command" ie reostat. This is not CRASH REVERSING or PLUG braking and will not harm motor. If done very frequently ie every 20 second or so and repeatedly AND the ramps are set for very short time ie one second or less you can heat up the rotor. I would say this is not an issue under normal machining operations. Well done on the video I think you covered the basics of VFD operation well. I recommend either box in that VFD to keep metal chips out of the control and power terminals OR mount it on wall above and behind drill press. This goes triple if one insists on using compressed air for "cleaning" - more accurately moving debris to somewhe else to clean up later. IN GENERAL never have a switch in between the VFD and the motor. There are exceptions to this but they do not apply to operations like a small drill press or other small machine tools. Dan Bentler
Hi Mr Pete, these VFD's normally have the facility to run a remote start, stop, reverse and jog switch as well your remote speed control although interpreting the instruction book is the trick. Take a close look at the instruction book, it should be in there somewhere. Maybe someone who is familiar with the TEC can advise , anyone guys?
I'm pretty sure the slang "troll" comes from an analogy to fishing. Punks are fishing for a reaction with red herrings... they're trolling, therefore they're trolls.
Be careful when feeding the motor with frequencies above 60Hz. Specially in single pair of poles motor, might happen that the rotor can't handle such centrifugal force. If it is a couple pair of poles motor, it is probable that the rotor handles the centrifugal force because, anyway, it runs half the speed comparing to a singe pair of poles motor.
In my experience it's ok to turn the mains to the VFD on and off in use, as long as it's only a few times per hour say. Also, I think you will find you have 10V DC available on the little control terminal strip... But please don't consider using those DC terminals covered by the ! label... that's actually rectified mains at around 220 x 1.414 = 310VDC , you don't want to touch that :-(
just ignore them! it pisses them off in you don't answer them! just delete their comment! also keep up the great job! Search Results internet troll Web definitions In Internet slang, a troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community, either accidentally or with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response ...
Hi, Among all those options and breakout connectors on the bottom of the VFD was there not an accomodation to turn it on and off via a remote switch ? You may also use a contactor to turn on/off both devices and thecspeed dispaly as well simultaneously. A troll is someone that leaves delibertately combative and offensive comments in order to get a response. They don't really care about the topic their goal is to engage as many people as possible in an argument and take over the whole topic. Best to just ignore them. Hence the maxim " Don't feed the trolls"
I have a selector switch from automation direct GCX1300 with an extra ECX1040 contact so I can use reverse on the same switch. You may be able to find similar parts for cheaper $16 before shipping and tax, but here ya go.
I can make a short video of how mine is wired though your terminals may not coincide. Basically one of the contacts has circuit D11 to COM (fwd) and the other has D12 to COM (rev) with a jumper for COM between the switches.
Erwin, Yes they do make VFD's for single phase. It is what allows us to run commercial (3 phase) motors in typical households where single phase is all that is available. Also I cant imagine powering down of the VFD via the original switch causing any problems. Probably not satisfactory for OSHA. Troll: A person who has nothing to do but complain or go off topic. A waste of everyones time.
Trolls get their jollies by causing trouble, being socially unacceptable, and generally acting in ways that would get them beaten if they did it in person. I suspect that you probably don't get a lot of trolls on your channel and that the occasional thumbs down can be explained by people whose peccadillo you violated or who just slip when trying to click the thumbs up and accidentally hit the down button. I would just ignore them unless they start being a large percentage of the ratings, and also start leaving comments telling you why they didn't like something. On the Hall effect sensor...is there room to mount it on the underside of the pulley, so you get back full use? Does the sensor have to face the top of the magnet, or could the sensor be horizontal and catch the edge of the magnet as it goes by? Just wondering. Thanks for the videos...very educational! -- Mike
I have this same VFD on my mill. To connect a remote run/stop switch, set function parameter F4 to 001. Check the position of switch SW1. The manual says the default is down. If the switch is down, terminal 3 is common; if the switch is up, terminal 8 is common. Connect a switch from common to S1 (terminal 4). When the switch is open, the motor will stop, close the switch to run. To reverse the motor, connect a switch from common to S2 (terminal 5). When the switch is open the motor will run forward, close the switch to reverse. Do not change direction while the motor is running. It is OK to turn off power to the VFD like you show at the end of your video. Not recommended while the motor is running. Note that if you leave the remote run switch on and turn off power to the VFD, the motor will not automatically start running when power is restored. The run switch will need to be turned off and back on again to make the motor run; safety feature. There is 10 volts DC available from the VFD that is used for the remote speed adjustment; terminals 9 and 11. I do not know how much power is available, but you might be able to run your tach with it.
Any single-pole, single throw switch will work. These switches with only 2 connections or wires. Radio Shack has a good selection or you can use toggle switches (like the switches on the side of the drill press) from a hardware or home improvement store.
Allen I got it wired and the on & off works fine.. Then, with the machine turned off, when I operate the reverse switch, the machine starts in rev. Why does the rev switch start the motor. I have it wired with 2 switches according to your instr. The dip switch is set to PNP (down). I am using term. 4 as the common. I programmed F4 to 001. Thanks.
mrpete222 Check the value for F6. If it is set to 000 one switch is run forward, one switch is run reverse, and both switches the same, on or off, is stop. Change F6 to 001. This should give you one switch for on/off and the other switch will select forward or reverse. Sorry I missed that; but I am not using the reverse feature.
Great information as always! On the tachometer, I’m wondering if the magnet and sensor location toward the edge of the large pulley may give you incorrect and elevated data. If the magnet could be directly on the spindle, it would be moving quite a bit slower. I know this video has some time under its belt, but hope this might still help. Cheers!
I m guessing the reason why I dull my large bits all the time is because I was running the drill press too fast from watching you drill. What are you using for lub?
There are settings to increase the torque. Many of these settings are programmed using an RS485 connection via a PC. The torque vector along with a whole host of settings can be achieved this way. I found this link showing the codes required. www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/EV_Installation.pdf Unfortunately these are not very user friendly, it takes somewhat of a technical understanding of VFD engineering to decipher the codes.
Seems as thought everyone's vidios gets the dislikes from trolls. Anyways your last vidio with the tack after I watched it I ordered the same one for the mill...
I have One VFD that I use for both my lathe and mill - Its mounted on a wheeled dolly that I can roll around small shop to be close to what ever machine I am using at the moment- I power down VFD and plug whatever machine into VFD power output cord - then power up VFD again - I think the main thing that will damage VFD is breaking circut between VFD and motor load when powered up - Trolls are just Loosers -
You can add remote switches to control the start/stop/reverse functions. Check the manual for the appropriate wiring and codes that need to be set. You can add the switches into your Tacho enclosure if you wish, they are powered via the 24volt DC output. Forget the trolls, their goal is to upset people. Just ignore them. Email me if you need help with the switches: trumpy81@optusnet.com.au
A troll is someone who wasn't hugged enough as a child, and so they remain a child... And, since they are big, they act like the schoolyard bully, that was held back a few grades! ;o} O,
Trolls are people who haven't learned that: 'It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt'. Thus quoth Mark Twain.
Beeing a Norwegian home of the Trolls. Yes it's a Norwegian word and a Troll is : a supernatural being in Norse mythology and Scandinavian folklore. In origin, troll may have been a negative synonym for a jötunn - (JØTUL ) (plural jötnar), a being in Norse mythology. In Old Norse sources, beings described as trolls dwell in isolated rocks, mountains, or caves, live together in small family units, and are rarely helpful to human beings.......... Extremely stupid, Easy to fool and they do not smell good. :) LOL
Doing my own VFD conversion at the moment (01/16/2015). While doing some Internet research I bumped into these guys offering various drill press gearing reduction kits: www.roguefab.com/category.php?category=DPRKS
Trolls are the same people as the knuckheads you probably dealt with in some of your classes while teaching. They aren't interested or disinterested in your videos, they're just trying to make trouble.
Unless they are constructive, forget the negative comments. Seems like, to me, that they are really showing off their own ignorance and narrow mindedness. They don't understand what they are looking at, or commenting on. PS I thought that your spill proof oil can was a great idea.
mrpete222, See my previous comment on your first VFD (at goo.gl/FhqyIB ), I now have proper switches on order to implement fixed; FWD/REV, START/STOP and ESTOP. I am currently using a jury-rigged switches and have figured out how program and implement the above functions. My jury-rigged switches are now implemented at the end of a cord, which have proved to be extreamly valuable for Tapping. Switches can be connected in parallel and therefore I plan have fixed switch at the VFD and to include a hand held remote. For the fixed switches I have on order see: goo.gl/ot5MLY . For the remote I will use a simple FWD/OFF/REV (ON/OFF/ON) switch on a sterio cord and plug. I will supply more info when all is installed. I am considering an RPM meter, thanks for the tip. And, Thanks for your Videos, that have encouraged me to do something similar. Eldon
I'd like to know what you have against 'over the pond' products. This is the second time I've heard you dismissively comment about them, (the other time was about a pack of pin vices). I'm guessing that I, and my fellow engineers, may also be from 'over the pond' , in which case these comments are particularly offensive. Its a common 'tongue in cheek' phrase but your bigoted, 'If it ain't made in USA its rubbish', attitude seems anything but. It's a shame, as otherwise you do actually seem to know what you're on about.
Trolls will always be there. They do not allow for the interests, proclivities, or styles of others, and tend to be too self righteous to just let it be. I know there are people out there that dislike you because they feel you are not fussy enough, thinking that a machinist needs to always be tool-maker/aerospace-critical. They don't understand that making something work , and oneself happy, is all that is required. keep it up, Mr. Pete. I'm sure we are all looking forward to the Next Last VFD video! ;-) Edit - Yes... DO leave this video up.
No Vibration Worries with TECO VFDs
I'm a bit late to this comment stream, but I've enjoyed Mr Pete's series here and found it extremely useful. I work in the IT and Electronics industry as a validation engineer, and have some pretty in-depth first hand knowledge validating the TECO brand of 120V thru 440V VFDs for 3ph conversion as well as several other brands and designs. You have no worries here... these are hearty little buggers that should offer up no problems whatsoever even above the vibration level apparent on Mr Pete's drill press application. I've tested numerous TECO VFD designs, including the older FM50-101-C as well as this JNEV-101-H1 at hugely higher levels of vibration both in simulation and in actual application over many hundreds of hours with virtually no issues. I don't work for Westinghouse, but I also have no problem recommending these without hesitation... primarily because of both the price and the programability. Not sure where the vibration-issue rumor got started... probably because this has always been a concern since the dawn of vacuum tube technology (LOL), but today most if not all modern digital electronic applications are tested very thoroughly for stability and reliability both in vibration and in thermal applications. In general, it's the heat and not vibration that will kill electronic designs. As long as you keep these units fairly cool, they'll be OK. Don't worry about shop tool vibration issues. Rule of thumb - if you can hold your hand on the unit for 30 seconds and not be overly uncomfortable, it will be fine thermally. From a vibration standpoint, if it doesn't die within the first 10 minutes of running under full load (highest level of vibration) it's good to go. These are great little hearty VFD units! Hope that eases some application concerns out there.
TheMainlinehobo P.S. by vibration, we're talking about both static and constant shock.
I would not delete this video as it is seems to be a critical part of the series in that it shows what actually worked and why with a good demonstration of the the VFDs ability.
Trolls are folks with nothing better to do and just trying get a reaction from you. They can also be annoying with inane comments and questions not even caring about your answer and to only ask another annoying question from any answer.
My understanding of a troll is a person who posts negative comments in the hopes of baiting some one into posting a reply, thus validating their opinion. They are trolling for a reply, or spoiling for a fight, so to speak, as a way of getting their jollies. I do not think some one leaving a thumbs down would qualify, since the rating system is anonymous. Thanks for the video Mr. Pete, I have referenced you in more than one of my videos as being some one worth watching, and when I finish my SIPP drill press restoration, I'll definitely be including a video of me adding a $16 tachometer, thanks to your heads up on the subject.
Thank you Mr. Pete for the wrap-up of your VFD project.. Pay absolutely no attention to the negative comments. I have read that there are people commonly called "trolls" that like to give a negative comment to almost everything they watch. It is their way of leaving their pathetic "mark" on UA-cam.
Thanks for taking the time and making videos, I've learned some things from you. Most VFDs have a row of terminals to hook up remote switches, like on, stop, forward, and reverse. Usually these will take no power. They usually have pictorial symbols showing what's what and how to connect. Also I've seen lots of these hooked up so that operators hit an e-stop switch that kill all power to the VFD, like when you flip your toggle switch, and I've never seen any damage caused by it. BUT as always, the manufacturer of the VFD should be the one followed, not an old retired man like me that has never seen that brand and hasn't touched any of those things in many years. These things vary greatly from one manufacturer to another. Also some have to go into programming mode and set some bits to turn off local panel and turn on remote switches. As always, pay no attention to the old guy on the keyboard. Sometimes I just like throwing characters on the screen.
Donald
Mr. Pete I found this video very informative and I enjoyed it as a follow up video to #149. You might want to think about leaving it up so others at a later date can see what you've done to improve your torque.
As to an internet troll, they spew vile wherever they go. I can only guess what their motives must be but I think the only joy the must get in life is bringing others down. The best tactic for them is to ignore them. You can't get rid of them and if you feed them(commenting back) it only makes things worse.
Your videos about VFDs inspired me to install one on my drill press. Thanks for sharing your knowledge so freely on you tube!
Here's a little tour of my drill press:
Jet J-2550 Drill Press Modifications
a person who like to cause arguments on the internet your videos are great and very informative keep them coming
The "problem" - which isn't a problem for Mr Pete, as he's said - is that these cheap Chinese VFDs do not have vector control. A proper vector control would not let the motor stall out within it's capability. There's some newer "sensorless" VFDs out there that work really well in this application. They do cost a little more, however. Great video!
Love your videos Mr. Pete...I've learned a lot.
Regarding trolls...other commenters have described them accurately. I think the term originates less from the, "troll" who lives under a bridge and more from the fishing term. They're, "trolling" for a conflict.
Also, the jury is out on the Bridgeport, then. But:
hey forget that. the question is why are people people? you got 9000 watchers. Im 71 and still learning. Youve worked hard and it is appreciated. teaching surveying many yrs ago, I caught an entire ethnic group cheating on midterm, I failed them all. Dean said Mr H what are you going to do with no students? Go home then I replied, they got what they made. Just people. my best.
I hooked up a VFD to my Clausing lathe. It works great but I didn't like reaching in back of the lathe to turn it on or off. I found out that you could hook up the on/off function remotely. So I connected 20 gauge wires to the old barrel switch. Now it works like it did originally with the lever in front of the lathe.
Dont bother about some few thumbs downs. I dont think I have seen any video without thumbs downs even if they are blowing my mind out of greatness. Some people are just strange and you have probably met these in real life also. They tend to notice more on the internet. Dont bother about them. Enjoy all the people that likes what you do.
Re: your observation about trolls: please, please ignore them. While you wouldn't classify me as a machinist by any stretch, I am a dabbler, and I find your videos priceless. I am astounded, and grateful, that you're willing to share your knowledge and expertise with a bunch of strangers. Please carry on.
Thanks for watching
Don't know if anybody answered this for you yet, but the VFD has the low voltage control circuit that you can wire to a 3 position knob for Forward-Off-Reverse. I have a 3HP Teco VFD on my 9x49 Jet Mill and I used the factory 3 position rotary knob on the mill to control the VFD. You do not put any switches between the VFD and the Motor. I enjoy your videos and have learned lots, so hopefully I can return the favor sharing some of my own experience.
Thanks for the VFD video's, i recently purchased a small horizontal mill that has a 1hp 3phase motor and i am finding these video's very helpful.
Thanks a'lot for a very good serie of videos for use VFD . 😊
Most welcome!
Mr. Pete, some of the smaller screws, s1,s2,s3 com are used for switches, you can use a set to make a run/stop and unwire rewire one of your existing switches to use or another switch,
you will have to define the input in the vfd for external run stop,
change sw1 to npn,
set location #4 to 1 for external run stop,
a switch between s1 and com, this should be enough to get you started, Tj
Thanks for sharing so much info on VFD's! I had considered one for my Bridgeport mill a couple of years back - more for the phase conversion (mill was a variable speed) than the speed control. Mostly due to my own lack of knowledge on them, I ended up building my own rotary phase converter, which works great aside from being a little noisy. I think now though that VFD's are cheaper and better and also offer a lot more features than just the 3 ph power source.
Trolls are people that leave comments or dislikes solely for the purpose of ruining your day. And you really make their day if you take time to respond to their negative comments because that is what they are after, attention.
Mr Pete supporter: here I am from Italy.
Love the VFD and I will for sure get one for my Bridgeport. I picked up a piece of advice when it comes to running the VFD on low rpm. If you do a lot of drilling or milling or what ever on low speed for a long time, you should think about making some kind of cooling on the motor. The low rpm and the high torque is not a good combination since the motor can not cool it self. 12 v heavy duty computer fan or one lie you'll find in small welders should do fine. Cheaper than a burnt motor. And yes the elecronics should be mounted , if not off the machine, at least shielded from dust. Good elecronics can take a lot of vibration but on the wall would be the ultimate place to hang it. Thanks Mr Pete for another nice video.
Great biblical name, and great videos. Glad I found you.
Try Newton Tesla over here in the UK for remote station, they have at least two types, as I believe different converters work slightly differently.
I do not know which side of the converter you have the toggle switch wired to but believe it is on the inverter feed side, which is I believe should be okay, though as you say powering the inverter down a thousand times may prove to be ill advised, the instructions for the inverters I have say in bold type "do not under any circumstances wire any switch between the inverter and the motor, that includes double pole reversing switches" the inverter must always see the motor when powered up.
Great vid, much interest in vfd technology these days for mills, lathes, drills. I myself would like to understand the technology better. Besides being able to recycle more motors for our home shop use the speed control and especially low speed seems to be an real advantage. I have heard 3ph on a mill for example will even smooth out the cutting action on the work creating a finer finish. Thanks again for the continued flow of solid information in a way that is friendly and educational. Trolls,....like bugs on the windshield during a trip, only foul things up till the next gas stop, then you just wash em off. Unfortunately, they are simply part of the journey.
Looking at the manual for the TECO 7300EV (I assume that is what you have, looks like it) I can tell a few things.
RA - RB are switch contacts you can use to turn on the RPM module. Program "F21" for "013" to tell the unit to close these switch contacts upon power on (or select another mode from the chart).
Using three "push button" switches (like doorbell switches) "normally open contact type" wire one side of each to the "COM" terminal. Wire the other side to "S1", "S2", "S3" on each switch respectfully. Program "F11" for "000" (forward), "F12" for "001" (Reverse) and "F13" for "006" (Emergency Stop) You can also add a fourth button to "S4" "F14" and choose another function from the list.
The "DC" connections are for the braking resistor and not a source of DC power.
One good source for switches: www.mpja.com/Panel-Mount-Push-Button-Switches/products/293/
Do not use your power switch (on the DP) to turn the system on-off. By doing so, with the motor running, it can break the VFD.
I would not worry about any vibration on the VFD. These units are made for such environments and tested for vibration. Can it happen? Sure! But you may also find a bag full of money on the street corner!
Some people will dislike to prevent similar videos from showing up in their recommendations. No reflection on you.
Hey Mr. Pete, another great video. I turn my VFD's off at the end of each work day. It won't hurt them at all.
Check your manual. The wiring diagram will show the connections for the low voltage direction forward/off/reverse switch. If you relocate the original power switch and replace it with almost any spdt switch, this could do the forward/reverse in the original on of switch location.
Try the Twist Lock belt (you can get them from McMaster Carr ) they eliminated the vibration I had in my old mill. The stop and start should also be controlled thru the vfd via a switch. The vfd sat work are on 24/7 and give us a long service life on motors from 1/2 to 250 hp.
One of the other guys on youtube showed a VFD whose face is "detatchable." I wouldn't call it detachable since control panel needs to be tethered via a cable, but it would probably allow the unit to be mounted off of the drill press to avoid the vibration on the main unit. They look more expensive than the unit you got.
Do an internet search on "automation direct vfd gs2" to see the one the guy talked about in his video.
Thanks for the information you provided in your series on the VFD and your other videos.
I used a slightly larger TECO VFD for my Bridgeport, I too was disappointed in the lack of torque at low speed. The VFD I have on my Monarch lathe has a removable panel that can be remotely be mounted via CAT5 cable
You got criticism.....pay them no mind......very stuff...idiots keep up the good work mrpete love your videos and you've taught us all
Thank you very much
One other point, I have several Mitsubishi VFD's of various models and the instructions on each advise against disconnecting the load without first hitting stop and the same goes for switching off the supply to the VFD without first pressing stop. Maybe once you have the remote stop/start set up you will get out of the habit of reaching for the old on off switch :-)
Impressive power from that drill press.
It is normal if not recommended, to switch the power off to the VFD. Just make sure you do bot try to cut power to the tool, by shutting off power to the vfd. I had mentioned it before when I recommended re-installing the jackshaft, that you could use your existing switch to turn the tool off and on.....you don't need to buy a special switch. You may want to buy a roker type switch from Radio shack to control the forward reverse. I had set up numerous VFD's, and have the exact same model. If you like....I could instruct the wiring to make both switchs work, and where and how to set the VFD parameters to get it done, however, I will not post it here......only if you want the info. Jim
Jim
Yes, would like to see the wiring. Get my email address at my website. www.mrpete222.com thanks
mrpete222
Fully agree with Jim Liechty, The VFD life cycle will be decreased a lot if VFD power is connected and disconnected many times. It is OK once a day but not for stopping and starting motor.
Short explanation In section 6 of TECO operating manual: "Do not use the circuit breaker as the run/stop switch for the inverter."
Long explanation involves a Capacitor Bank and a Safety Discharge Power Resistor in VFD. Most of your audience will not be interested as they are machinists; not electronic engineers.
Hope you have already installed the forward/reverse Rocker or Toggle switch successfully (Function 04 & 06)
There is also an external Remote LED Keypad for Techo ev VFDs (Google SDOP-LED-2M). Expensive though ($50).
I really appreciate your videos as I am purchasing a mill soon and I will need to use a vfd to get it to run.
In the programing Manuel it explains how to wire the vfd to switch between flowered and reverse. Can be controlled with one toggle switch.
Nice videos mrpete. Concerning torque eficiency I have one sugestion: use a motor with many poles. I built a poters whell using a 10 pole 1/4hp motor and did not feel any big limitation on torque at low speeds.
I also like you oil can 😊
Between my controller and my DC motor (with brush) I had to install a Double pole double throw switch to activate the reverse on my Bridgeport. This is the idea. But I am not familiar with all those 3 phases motor and I don't know if that kind of switch could be install on you motor. I did not have a switch on my PB when I bought it. So I install a dc motor (1HP). But when setting -up the head to reverse, it did not work. There was missing a gear somewhere. So, I install that DPDT switch. Cost few dollars only and a plastic box.n I just have to take care to not reverse the switch when the motor is running. I didn't have to buy an electronic switch that fit into the controller at 200-300 $. Because I have brushes onto the motor, That is the explanation I received. Don't know why, so I take care to shutdown the controller before reversing the switch.
Thanks for showing.
Warm regards
I just watched your video on spiil proof oil can - LOVED IT!!! That ought to take care of it!
Nice job as always!!!!
Thumbs Up!.
Put in a new switch for your drive, and hook-up the one on the drill press to stop & start the motor.
I think the biggest danger is interupting the load....disconnecting the vfd from the motor. Liking the RPM meter. Might have to add one.
Leave this video up. There's some useful information here. Tell us about that tuna oil can.
Seeing the machine vibrate at 300RPM - that is some significant vibration. The little VFD is probably not specified for that. In mid term this will cause all sorts of problems. E.g. it will damage the soldering on the PCB, the connections between the parts and the solder come loose. There will be hairline cracks in the copper traces on the PCB itself. Just to name some of the usual suspects. Decoupling is key here.
When you do that, make sure that you use flexible leads to connect vibrating and static parts. There specific cables for that purpose, if you want to bequeath the machine to your grand kids...
great ingenuity. I ponder having a stall is better than heat tempering a surface into melting bits... bits go slower than most realize, must be the hand drills we all get first..spinning at 3500rpm right out of the box.
Stalling is rough on tooling
Urban dictionary is a great, if obscene source of definitions and usage of new terms.
Great video
Rely cool upgrade for drillpress, i'm thinking about ad all set to may new drillpress :D I do not need converter but speed control and tachometer. Very informative series of videos.
Greetings from PolandNICK
THree phase motors are called inductive or squirrel cage - they have no commutator and no capacitors starting switch and other maintenance headaches.
On "line fed" motors to reverse rotation you need reversing switches or relays to switch two phases. Yes a double pole double throw switch would work on small motors say 1/2 HP above that I would use contactors. In this setup let motor come to complete stop before switch rotation. Do not CRASH REVERSE or PLUG brake except in emergency - very hard on switch contacts and possibly the gear train of driven equipment.
The VFD will switch the phases for you provided you install FWD REV switches in the control circuits. In this case you need either two single pole single throw or a single pole double throw.
REVERSING with VFD and why OK - the VFD will brake motor to stop then reverse two phases and speed it back up to whatever speed you have set on the "speed command" ie reostat. This is not CRASH REVERSING or PLUG braking and will not harm motor. If done very frequently ie every 20 second or so and repeatedly AND the ramps are set for very short time ie one second or less you can heat up the rotor. I would say this is not an issue under normal machining operations.
Well done on the video I think you covered the basics of VFD operation well.
I recommend either box in that VFD to keep metal chips out of the control and power terminals OR mount it on wall above and behind drill press. This goes triple if one insists on using compressed air for "cleaning" - more accurately moving debris to somewhe else to clean up later.
IN GENERAL never have a switch in between the VFD and the motor. There are exceptions to this but they do not apply to operations like a small drill press or other small machine tools.
Dan Bentler
Thanks Dan. Thats interesting info. pete
Hi Mr Pete, these VFD's normally have the facility to run a remote start, stop, reverse and jog switch as well your remote speed control although interpreting the instruction book is the trick. Take a close look at the instruction book, it should be in there somewhere. Maybe someone who is familiar with the TEC can advise , anyone guys?
I'm pretty sure the slang "troll" comes from an analogy to fishing. Punks are fishing for a reaction with red herrings... they're trolling, therefore they're trolls.
Be careful when feeding the motor with frequencies above 60Hz. Specially in single pair of poles motor, might happen that the rotor can't handle such centrifugal force.
If it is a couple pair of poles motor, it is probable that the rotor handles the centrifugal force because, anyway, it runs half the speed comparing to a singe pair of poles motor.
Great video mrpete I like your no spill oil container perhaps you could do a video on making one
In my experience it's ok to turn the mains to the VFD on and off in use, as long as it's only a few times per hour say. Also, I think you will find you have 10V DC available on the little control terminal strip... But please don't consider using those DC terminals covered by the ! label... that's actually rectified mains at around 220 x 1.414 = 310VDC , you don't want to touch that :-(
Using link belts may help with the vibration problem caused by misaligned pulleys.
This is also another good video from Shadon HKW. Here you have a auto-reversing tapping solution
Auto reverse drill press
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
just ignore them! it pisses them off in you don't answer them! just delete their comment!
also keep up the great job!
Search Results
internet troll
Web definitions
In Internet slang, a troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory, extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community, either accidentally or with the deliberate intent of provoking readers into an emotional response ...
Hi,
Among all those options and breakout connectors on the bottom of the VFD was there not an accomodation to turn it on and off via a remote switch ?
You may also use a contactor to turn on/off both devices and thecspeed dispaly as well simultaneously.
A troll is someone that leaves delibertately combative and offensive comments in order to get a response. They don't really care about the topic their goal is to engage as many people as possible in an argument and take over the whole topic.
Best to just ignore them.
Hence the maxim
" Don't feed the trolls"
I like your oil can
I have a selector switch from automation direct GCX1300 with an extra ECX1040 contact so I can use reverse on the same switch. You may be able to find similar parts for cheaper $16 before shipping and tax, but here ya go.
I can make a short video of how mine is wired though your terminals may not coincide. Basically one of the contacts has circuit D11 to COM (fwd) and the other has D12 to COM (rev) with a jumper for COM between the switches.
allsortsofinterests
Yes--do it. Maybe it will coincide. Thanks
Erwin, Yes they do make VFD's for single phase. It is what allows us to run commercial (3 phase) motors in typical households where single phase is all that is available.
Also I cant imagine powering down of the VFD via the original switch causing any problems. Probably not satisfactory for OSHA.
Troll: A person who has nothing to do but complain or go off topic. A waste of everyones time.
While you are running wires by the mile, you might as well put motor and VFD temperature remotes in the box with your spindle tach.
Trolls get their jollies by causing trouble, being socially unacceptable, and generally acting in ways that would get them beaten if they did it in person. I suspect that you probably don't get a lot of trolls on your channel and that the occasional thumbs down can be explained by people whose peccadillo you violated or who just slip when trying to click the thumbs up and accidentally hit the down button. I would just ignore them unless they start being a large percentage of the ratings, and also start leaving comments telling you why they didn't like something.
On the Hall effect sensor...is there room to mount it on the underside of the pulley, so you get back full use? Does the sensor have to face the top of the magnet, or could the sensor be horizontal and catch the edge of the magnet as it goes by? Just wondering.
Thanks for the videos...very educational!
-- Mike
Yes--I am too sensetive. Not sure about the magnet.
three phase motors to reverse direction just switch 2 leads. Take a 4 way switch and wire it into 2 of the 3 motor leads.
On most VFD's just a SPST switch will work for reverse.
No need to play with the motor leads, let the drive do it for you.
i like the whole setup, but rebuilding that jackshaft would make a good video, i dont know any old drill press that doesnt need attention there.
you could drill in the magnet a little so you can use that pulley again :)
i like your videos on vfd as im trying one on my wood lathe
fransie
I have this same VFD on my mill. To connect a remote run/stop switch, set function parameter F4 to 001.
Check the position of switch SW1. The manual says the default is down. If the switch is down, terminal 3 is common; if the switch is up, terminal 8 is common.
Connect a switch from common to S1 (terminal 4). When the switch is open, the motor will stop, close the switch to run.
To reverse the motor, connect a switch from common to S2 (terminal 5). When the switch is open the motor will run forward, close the switch to reverse. Do not change direction while the motor is running.
It is OK to turn off power to the VFD like you show at the end of your video. Not recommended while the motor is running. Note that if you leave the remote run switch on and turn off power to the VFD, the motor will not automatically start running when power is restored. The run switch will need to be turned off and back on again to make the motor run; safety feature.
There is 10 volts DC available from the VFD that is used for the remote speed adjustment; terminals 9 and 11. I do not know how much power is available, but you might be able to run your tach with it.
Excellent instructions. What types of switches do you recommend & where to buy them. THANKS
Any single-pole, single throw switch will work. These switches with only 2 connections or wires. Radio Shack has a good selection or you can use toggle switches (like the switches on the side of the drill press) from a hardware or home improvement store.
Allen
I got it wired and the on & off works fine.. Then, with the machine turned off, when I operate the reverse switch, the machine starts in rev. Why does the rev switch start the motor. I have it wired with 2 switches according to your instr. The dip switch is set to PNP (down). I am using term. 4 as the common.
I programmed F4 to 001. Thanks.
mrpete222 Check the value for F6. If it is set to 000 one switch is run forward, one switch is run reverse, and both switches the same, on or off, is stop. Change F6 to 001. This should give you one switch for on/off and the other switch will select forward or reverse. Sorry I missed that; but I am not using the reverse feature.
Thanks Allen--that did it! pete
Great information as always! On the tachometer, I’m wondering if the magnet and sensor location toward the edge of the large pulley may give you incorrect and elevated data. If the magnet could be directly on the spindle, it would be moving quite a bit slower. I know this video has some time under its belt, but hope this might still help. Cheers!
Maybe
Great Series Mr Pete. Shadon HKW Has a real good explanatory video on VFD's Here it is Copy and Paste
VFD introduction / application / information
I m guessing the reason why I dull my large bits all the time is because I was running the drill press too fast from watching you drill. What are you using for lub?
The DC supplied by the VFD is most likely a 10v for computer control (0-10v).
would there be enough space on the flange of the pulley to recess the magnet?
Don't worry about the dislikes. I don't know why some people take them so personally.
Trolls are like little dogs chasing your car; a lot of noise and not the least bit useful...
Tom - Vista, CA
use the source 10vcd from VFD for tachometer power. and plug off the transformer power source. (sorry my english)
Also, there was 10V brought to the stationary terminals of the remote speed control so 10V is already in the handy box for the meter.
trolls are people who enjoy harassing people online. The more of a reaction they get the funnier it is. Case in point the " you dun goof'd" guy.
There are settings to increase the torque. Many of these settings are programmed using an RS485 connection via a PC. The torque vector along with a whole host of settings can be achieved this way. I found this link showing the codes required. www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/EV_Installation.pdf
Unfortunately these are not very user friendly, it takes somewhat of a technical understanding of VFD engineering to decipher the codes.
Change your belts to AX or BX style belts. They are cut and not formed like 3L and 4L and run more vibration free
Seems as thought everyone's vidios gets the dislikes from trolls. Anyways your last
vidio with the tack after I watched it I ordered the same one for the mill...
I have One VFD that I use for both my lathe and mill - Its mounted on a wheeled dolly that I can roll around small shop to be close to what ever machine I am using at the moment- I power down VFD and plug whatever machine into VFD power output cord - then power up VFD again -
I think the main thing that will damage VFD is breaking circut
between VFD and motor load when powered up -
Trolls are just Loosers -
You can add remote switches to control the start/stop/reverse functions. Check the manual for the appropriate wiring and codes that need to be set. You can add the switches into your Tacho enclosure if you wish, they are powered via the 24volt DC output. Forget the trolls, their goal is to upset people. Just ignore them. Email me if you need help with the switches: trumpy81@optusnet.com.au
Do they not make a VFD for a single phase 220 motor?
A troll is someone who wasn't hugged enough as a child, and so they remain a child... And, since they are big, they act like the schoolyard bully, that was held back a few grades! ;o}
O,
Trolls are people who haven't learned that: 'It's better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than open it and remove all doubt'. Thus quoth Mark Twain.
Beeing a Norwegian home of the Trolls. Yes it's a Norwegian word and a Troll is : a supernatural being in Norse mythology and Scandinavian folklore. In origin, troll may have been a negative synonym for a jötunn - (JØTUL ) (plural jötnar), a being in Norse mythology. In Old Norse sources, beings described as trolls dwell in isolated rocks, mountains, or caves, live together in small family units, and are rarely helpful to human beings.......... Extremely stupid, Easy to fool and they do not smell good. :) LOL
Doing my own VFD conversion at the moment (01/16/2015). While doing some Internet research I bumped into these guys offering various drill press gearing reduction kits:
www.roguefab.com/category.php?category=DPRKS
Trolls are the same people as the knuckheads you probably dealt with in some of your classes while teaching. They aren't interested or disinterested in your videos, they're just trying to make trouble.
Get a 3 position drum switch from amazon.
How much?
Where did you buy it?!?!?!
Fix that crooked shaft and it will make a good video. You can fix it with your eyes closed.
Unless they are constructive, forget the negative comments. Seems like, to me, that they are really showing off their own ignorance and narrow mindedness. They don't understand what they are looking at, or commenting on. PS I thought that your spill proof oil can was a great idea.
Because they have not hing better to do but give bad reviews
pay no mind to the TROLLS. They are people that have absolutely nothing going for them and cannot stand the fact that others do..
Jeffrey Muntz Thanks for watching-and thanks for encouraging me in the face of adversaries
mrpete222,
See my previous comment on your first VFD (at goo.gl/FhqyIB ), I now have proper switches on order to implement fixed; FWD/REV, START/STOP and ESTOP.
I am currently using a jury-rigged switches and have figured out how program and implement the above functions. My jury-rigged switches are now implemented at the end of a cord, which have proved to be extreamly valuable for Tapping.
Switches can be connected in parallel and therefore I plan have fixed switch at the VFD and to include a hand held remote. For the fixed switches I have on order see: goo.gl/ot5MLY . For the remote I will use a simple FWD/OFF/REV (ON/OFF/ON) switch on a sterio cord and plug.
I will supply more info when all is installed.
I am considering an RPM meter, thanks for the tip.
And, Thanks for your Videos, that have encouraged me to do something similar.
Eldon
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troll_(Internet)
I'd like to know what you have against 'over the pond' products. This is the second time I've heard you dismissively comment about them, (the other time was about a pack of pin vices). I'm guessing that I, and my fellow engineers, may also be from 'over the pond' , in which case these comments are particularly offensive. Its a common 'tongue in cheek' phrase but your bigoted, 'If it ain't made in USA its rubbish', attitude seems anything but. It's a shame, as otherwise you do actually seem to know what you're on about.
Magnet put the pulley off balance.