What’s confusing is, after you have added the salt to the pool and waited a few days for it to dissolve, when you then turn the salt water generator on, where/how do you set it?
Also, it's good to consider switching out the salt cell with a "dummy cell" when water temps are below 65. These are simply an empty pipe with a compatible union at each end that takes the place of the generator. Salt cells fail and need replacing at about 10,000 hours. It will last you longer if it is removed from system when not generating chlorine during cooler months. The dummy units are available from the different SWG manufacturers.
My Hayward SWG is still producing chlorine at 54° water. I avoid adding salt at the end of the season. No reason to add a further corroding element if unnecessary given that I cold dip all year.
Question, Steve. I'm in NW Florida and at times salt readings are 1900 ppm - 2400 ppm, yet free chlorine readings are 3-7 ppm. So my question is - are we to add salt to bring the numbers ideally back to 2700-3200 ppm?
Double check your salt levels with an external test before adding more salt. But yes, you should aim to have the salt level that is specified by the manufacturer of your salt system
@@Swimmingpoolsteve yes, I initially do the Taylor multi tests for salt, PH, etc, and I double check with the Taylor salt test kit & electronic meter, and at times test strips to get a rough idea of where the levels are. I was wondering if it was crucial to have salt levels in an ideal range if my free chlorine is at safe and sanitizing levels; algae won't spawn in ideal chlorine levels or higher, correct. So, adding salt when chlorine levels are already sanitizing - is it not safe to not add salt? I'm constantly asking myself that very question, because adding salt to an already well sanitized pool is like throwing out money, I assume, and I greatly appreciate your response! (and videos! Professional)
Good advice.
Thanks
What’s confusing is, after you have added the salt to the pool and waited a few days for it to dissolve, when you then turn the salt water generator on, where/how do you set it?
Also, it's good to consider switching out the salt cell with a "dummy cell" when water temps are below 65. These are simply an empty pipe with a compatible union at each end that takes the place of the generator.
Salt cells fail and need replacing at about 10,000 hours. It will last you longer if it is removed from system when not generating chlorine during cooler months. The dummy units are available from the different SWG manufacturers.
My Hayward SWG is still producing chlorine at 54° water. I avoid adding salt at the end of the season. No reason to add a further corroding element if unnecessary given that I cold dip all year.
Salt readings are also more accurate when water temperatures are higher.
What is the best test kit to test your pool water and salt levels ?
Question, Steve.
I'm in NW Florida and at times salt readings are 1900 ppm - 2400 ppm, yet free chlorine readings are 3-7 ppm. So my question is - are we to add salt to bring the numbers ideally back to 2700-3200 ppm?
Double check your salt levels with an external test before adding more salt. But yes, you should aim to have the salt level that is specified by the manufacturer of your salt system
@@Swimmingpoolsteve yes, I initially do the Taylor multi tests for salt, PH, etc, and I double check with the Taylor salt test kit & electronic meter, and at times test strips to get a rough idea of where the levels are.
I was wondering if it was crucial to have salt levels in an ideal range if my free chlorine is at safe and sanitizing levels; algae won't spawn in ideal chlorine levels or higher, correct. So, adding salt when chlorine levels are already sanitizing - is it not safe to not add salt? I'm constantly asking myself that very question, because adding salt to an already well sanitized pool is like throwing out money, I assume, and I greatly appreciate your response! (and videos! Professional)
@@ChristIsRisen777It’s that your salt cell generator will stop producing chlorine if salt gets too low, then your chlorine will drop after.