Brilliant thankyou, your straight up with your teaching, actually your excellent and we thankyou for teaching us, from me and my fellow racers in Scotland 🏴 thankyou
Thank you, Mike. Great video! Two questions: 1) The manual for the MP10 nitro kit says to fill the cap with some some oil also. I find that strange as you'd have to be very fast to not have it spill all over when the cap is put on. Perhaps Kyosho meant it for lubrication of the seal and NOT as additional fill? 2) What would you suggest a good starting-point shock oil weight (in Cts) would be F/R for an MP10 nitro?
Because they don't take the ball link off. The more you take it on and off the more prone it is to strip and rip off in a crash. What do you mean in the states? I'm in the states and don't remove the ball l1ink. There is no need to as it's also sliding back over it when you put the spring retainer on.
Awesome video as always 👌👍 Cheers mates 😁
Brilliant thankyou, your straight up with your teaching, actually your excellent and we thankyou for teaching us, from me and my fellow racers in Scotland 🏴 thankyou
Thank you, Mike. Great video! Two questions:
1) The manual for the MP10 nitro kit says to fill the cap with some some oil also. I find that strange as you'd have to be very fast to not have it spill all over when the cap is put on. Perhaps Kyosho meant it for lubrication of the seal and NOT as additional fill? 2) What would you suggest a good starting-point shock oil weight (in Cts) would be F/R for an MP10 nitro?
Good tip thanks 👍
Great video. Thank you.
Is there an advantage for emulsion over diaphragm or vice versa?
why not slide the shock boot on before the ball end thats what we do here in the states
Because they don't take the ball link off. The more you take it on and off the more prone it is to strip and rip off in a crash. What do you mean in the states? I'm in the states and don't remove the ball l1ink. There is no need to as it's also sliding back over it when you put the spring retainer on.