Banggood 3018 Mini Cnc Router Kit Build, Test & Review
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this video I built a mini cnc kit and tested it with wood, acrylic, aluminium and fr4 pcb material.
Banggood 3018 Mini Cnc Router Kit www.banggood.c...
ER11 collet holder www.banggood.c...
(To install the collet holder, heat it up and tap it onto the spindle motor shaft)
End Mills 1 - 3mm www.banggood.c...
22mm surface planing bit www.banggood.c...
(Use with an ER11 6mm collet for spoil board surfacing)
www.techydiy.or...
github.com/tra...
easel.inventabl...
flatcam.org/
Other mini cnc videos:
Eleksmill • Eleksmaker Eleksmill C... (Best for pcb milling)
3018-MX3 • Sainsmart Genmitsu 301... (For Mach3 software)
This video is pure gold. I bought a generic 3018 router package and the instructions were worthless. Halfway figured it out myself but then found this video and all was made clear. Many thanks for your work and care in producing this.
Excellent video, well paced, informative and practical. Well done and thank you.
For anyone who has purchases the 3018 PRO (with the wired remote controller). You may run into problems getting the 'Candle' software to work with the router. The wired remote controller needs to be disconnected from the 3018 PRO CNC Router in order for the Candle software to work correctly via the USB. Happy routing.
This kind of truly comprehensive review is absolutely brilliant. Cheers!
This is how such a presentation video should look like. Thank You.
My 3018 (PRO / Upgraded version .. for what that is worth .. ) should turn up here by the end of the day ... I'm looking forward to the build & hopefully receive a complete kit without any damaged / missing / faulty parts .. Thanks for the video! I think I've got my head wrapped around the assembly process. Let's hope all goes according to plan ;)
You should tell us how it it went and how it compares to this one!
I am a machinist, you need to use a riser plate on the table when possible in order to SHORTEN the tool distance between the motor and tool tip. This will increase rigidity and increase tool life and leave better finishes and it will lower run time and increase motor life. Remember, Vibration is your enemy, kills your machine, tools, parts, and ears.
Good for an 80%?
vibration is also your friend, when properly handled produces music.
I got one and here are my inputs:
1> the t-nuts are real hell to adjust; most of them fit at 30-45 degree;
2> the clamps (for the guide rails) cannot be tightened enough; I broke the thread because the rod is still loose;
3> the spindle is not heavy but lacks power.
Generally ok.
I agree. It is more an initiation first experience tool that can do some superb work in carefully chosen situations. But it is not a professional CNC.
Excellent instruction video. I have a similar engraver I bought a year ago, that is binding on all axes, and the Arduino operation is crappy. So it's been standing on the shelf for many months. This is very helpful, and I'm inspired again to work it over into a functional machine.
Banggood should absolutely pay you to make instruction videos for their gizmo's!
Excellent, clear, nicely paced video. Thank you.
Great diy tech tips, I guess maybe the CNC would have been 5 times its original cost if some of its components were a bit more robust. However the possibilities are obviously there for the person willing to follow through with a great build instead of honksquabbling about its limitations. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for "Honksquabbling" that's a new one for me 😀
This is THE BEST review I have ever seen. Thank you! Very thorough.
Thank you for one of the best produced Build, Test, Review videos I've come across, was able to watch the entire video without banging my head on the bench as most DIY and how to videos do. Video was very helpful in assisting in my decisions on what direction to head in.
Excellent video. So easy to follow and a pleasure to watch. I am new to CNC so knew nothing, you have covered everything to get people up and running, Banggood should be very grateful for your work. Thank you!
Thanks for the comprehensive video showing the assembly and the functions of the machine.
I recommend Loctite on key areas, because vibrations can undo screws
Good video on this mill I have and built this CNC mill. Having this video would have saved me some frustration.
I got this thing at least a year ago but didn't get myself to put it together. It looks like there's no excuse for putting it off now. Thanks for posting.
Does it work?
@@jopetnavea456
Yes. I've made some nice things. :)
How much does it cost if you don't mine
@@shellywilliams6604
I paid € 220 including shipping for my cnc2418 in October 2017
Customs sometimes doesn't charge import duties.
@@shellywilliams6604 I ordered one over a month ago still waiting for it to come
they are a great little machine with a few cheap upgrades. i have one dedicated to milling timber fishing lure bodys with a diy 4 axis addon. cost $350Aud for the lot and i made my money back in a week selling a hand full of lures.
it makes me $35 a hour
I don’t even have one of these, but your explanation of the CAD software earned a save.
I absolutely agree
Excellent video I assembled one of these today mine is a cronosmaker but I can’t get the thing to work will just have to keep trying
I got one of these a while back to mess around with and here my input:
The extrusions are ok, however the brackets are cheap cast units, and the arent square and have flash. The drop in tnuts were very annoying because they didnt bind up at all and spun free leading to a false lockup.
The Y axis is actually great, the bed is nice and the is minimal backlash and deflection
The X axis is slightly worse because the rods are long and unsupported. The seperation between the rods, and short length of the bearings makes it flex quite a bit compared to the y axis.
The Z axis is terrible, it flexes badly which means it flexes while plunging into material, and depending on the direction of feed will dig in or pull up.
The spindle is fine, but underpowered, and the er11 collet is very usable.
The control board that came with mine was a knock off atmel based affair, and we had to be creative to flash the latest version of grbl onto it.
GRBL is great, however when the motors stop they don't remain on and then shift micro-steps, which can easily add up over multiple runs.
My machine came with a CD which was a pain to find something that could actually read it.
I ended up turning mine into a one axis machine that just moves the bed back and forth, its pretty great at doing that.
I have a very similar laser-only version of this, and had to change my GRBL settings to always leave motors powered for this reason. It added up to cuts being tens of millimeters off by the end of a job.
I'm at work and this was so relaxing to watch and hear even if I didn't quite understand most things said. I subbed lol
Very good video. I bought a nearly identical CNC last year and have enjoyed using it. I sure wish my assembly went as fast as yours did.... :) A couple of notes for USA users: 1) Windows virus software will object to many of the CH340 drivers--thinking that they are corrupt or worse. If you google CH340 you'll find a lot of available sources. I found the one from Github worked fine. 2) BE CAREFUL with the USB connector on the driver board. I moved my laptop slightly and pulled the connector socket right off the PCB due to a short cable length. The replacement boards aren't expensive, but it cost weeks of delay to wait for a new one. I've used a 'zip tie' cable connector to brace the USB cable to the CNC frame with good results. 3) Here's a tip I saw on another video that works well with respect to mounting your workpiece and setting all the zero points: You can use any scrap material as an 'underpad' for your work piece. That avoids gouging your aluminum work table in case you mess up your "Z" depth. But the important part is that you DON'T have to set your X-Y zero point to the lower left of the 'underpad'; just place your working piece onto the underpad--toward the center of it--and mark the X-Y zero on the workpiece lower left. I've found that keeps you clear of any clamps or other hardware that might otherwise interfere with movement of the carving head. In fact, I've made an ink mark on the underpad at the point where I usually place the lower left corner of any workpiece so that I've got a pretty uniform target each time I start a job. Of course don't forget to fasten everything down with tape, clamps, glue putty, your choice.
1) Windows virus software will object to many of the CH340 drivers--thinking that they are corrupt or worse
Probably a good thing. I wouldn't trust a random driver uploaded on a Chinese cheapo site. I love those sites but they aren't trustworthy enough to risk installing their drivers.
@@LanceThumping would it help to run this out of a VM then?
Got mine...got it together...need to try it out for sure, I got a different control board
Thanks for this video!
I would really be interested in assembling one by myself. Seems to be a very sturdy and robust machine. Very well done video!!
very sturdy and robust?
Not at all. I bougth one and was very dissatisfied. Good for learning though.
@@jw200 what are the problems u experienced?
Absolutely amazing review video
One of the best videos of cnc videos I have seen nice job👍🌟 is this cnc ok for making small letters ?
Thanks. Yes, you do have to practice and experiment to get good results though.
techydiy Thank you so much for the great answer😊👍
Sorry, but to make this - not aluminium - you can also use your normal 3d printer and use a drill instead of a hotend. I do it all the time and get great results out of it. Wood or plastic or pcb are no problems at all. Also thin 1-3 aluminium plate work, but needs longer, but works! I only have to put a extra woodplate below, that i dont damage the heatbed to cut thru the wood or plastic into the wood layer below which i fixed with 3M Tape.
Did anyone else blow on their screen when the CNC was milling out the PCB?
Very explanatory video and a great help. Installation instructions from manufacture are not adequate. Having problems opening the CH340 driver after downloading. Anyone else experiencing the same problem?
very good video- professional!...from someone who has done video prod for over 40 years....!
vicomedia1 phone nambar...
Nice work.
Rule of thumb though....always use the fastest possible travel speed that the job/material/machine can handle.
The Z axis on these 3D printed parts is actually assembled wrong in the factory. That's where your problem came from, not the stepper. You have to take the Z axis apart, flip around the grey carrier block, and the z axis preloading will then function as intended. It is wrong for a stepper to carry axial loads (or even radial loads for that matter). They don't have suitable bearings for that. The brass lead screw nut mechanism should carry that spindle load on the lead screw, with the anti-backlash spring action acting downwards, not upwards, if that makes sense. So, when you push up on the spindle, you have a solid coupling to the brass nut, and when you pull on the spindle, you'll pull against the backlash spring. If you fit the blue coupling neutrally to the stepper, you should have no axial forces on it during operation.
Yes you are 100% correct. The z axis motor holder was the wrong way up. On this particular machine the stepper motors supplied had a large amount of play and that made it even worse. What I did in the end was to flip the motor holder and secondly to install a washer and a small thrust bearing between the blue coupler and the stepper motor. This resulted in a huge improvement.
Amazing catch! I'll have to check my Z Axis lead screw for this. I've replaced it a few times and am having Z-height issues. Thank you for nailing this for me!
Looked at these and thought they would be crap, but hey how wrong was i, could you generate designs in inkscape to then send over to gerbel, excellent tutorial.
Yes you can use inkscape to generate gcode by installing an inkscape gcode extension or you can import an svg file created by inkscape into easel and generate the gcode from there.
A really good tutorial, well explained and also good to understand by people with another mother tongue. And thank you for NOT using stupid music as often used.
Regards, Otto
Thank you for your video. Mine is working except for the work coordinate boxes. What am I missing? Thanks for your response
Explain further
Really helpful video thanks. I notice your spindle mount has metal strapping around it, is this a precaution/improvement or a repair?
Hi good day
I bought a CNC 3018pro a month ago and the only problem I have is that when engraving or cutting in several passes, it lags 0.5 to 1cm in each turn on the x axis and I don't know what that problem is due to, I use grbl 1.1.7
Thanks... this is the best most complete videos I've watched. All the others are either hard to understand or the creator rambled too much.
What kind of bit did you use for aluminum? Number of flutes?
Use a 3 flute endmill
Just set my machine up and found your video. thanks a lot, many great tips
5 months ago. How is it working out for you ?
..great video, very relaxing and organised, well done and thank you :)
Great video..! Comprehensive and thorough content.
You should do a tutorial on how to make videos. Fantastic content ! I am looking into making a CNC and this video has helped enormously.
For anyone considering purchasing one of these machines I would suggest NOT purchasing from Banggood.
The reason being that if you have a problem with it you will be extremely unlikely to get any satisfaction from them.
The circuit board on mine was faulty when I got it and the machine would not run.
I tried for about five months to get them to replace the faulty circuit board only to just go round and round in circles not getting anywhere..
I won't be buying anything from Banggood in the future. They have lost a good customer!!
Banggood 3018 Mini Cnc Router Kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/K3mKbMkHyf
ER11 Collet Holder 1-7mm:
www.banggood.com/custlink/DDK32OntlI
(To install the collet holder, heat it up and tap it onto the spindle motor shaft)
End Mills 1 - 3mm:
www.banggood.com/custlink/KG33MjQ54p
22mm surface planing bit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vGvE8OZoK2
(Use with an ER11 6mm collet for spoil board surfacing)
Other info:
www.techydiy.org/banggood-3018-3-axis-mini-cnc-router-build-test-review/
Can you explain how to implement limit switches?
I have a video in the pipeline
I'd appreciate that!!! I'm considering buying one of these, but after setting up and using a 3D printer kit, it's hard to think of using a CNC without the protection of limit switches!!! If your video is only half as good as this one, it should be very easy for anyone to follow ... :-)
YO TECHYDIY DUDE !!!!
Thanks LOADS for this video, it seriously helped me big time since i misplaced the instructions and when i did have them they were not clear enough at all.
So Thanks a million for making this video, not only that but its clear, your speech is crystal clear too, its a very clean build the way youve done it, its a beautiful setup of camera and well thought-out narative - DUDE YOU ARE AWESOME !!!!!
4700 Thumbs up on this vid so far.. well, 4701 now lol haha, cant actually see what the number is but regardless of that, if only the manufacturer/seller made clear concise and cleverly laid out video instructions WITH MEASUREMENTS OF ITEMS IN "STEP BY STEP" Orientation like this, then many wouldnt have any problems with these nice kits from China to get us home-gamers into the wonderful world of CNC !!!
Keep up the brillient job on your video's techydiy - you are a massive inspiration for me - i cannot thank you enough !
thank u I was looking at this machine for prop building parts.
Very nice and clear building process and review!
Great video. So much detail. I appreciate it.
Amazing video. I have been doing research and couldn’t find any good reviews on the machine. This was very detailed and a good video. I think after this though, I’m still going to get a K40 laser cutter instead
If you do - use k40 whisperer. Whole new device with this software.
How would this do for cutting carbon fibre plates?
Excellent video, you are concise and systematic, no doubt a good engineer. Thank-you for your great work here, in making this well planned & informative video.
Is there a comparable machine with a larger work surface?
I bought one of these last April. It came with grbl 0.8 and would not update to 0.9 as stated in the instructions. I found it to be erratic. When repeating a program it might just run off in an odd direction. When it worked it was great but I was getting success about 1 out of 3 tries. I just wanted it to learn a few things about CNC and to label drawers. I bought another tool a plasma table (what I really wanted) that runs on Mach 3 and it's been a success. This was my first time using CNC and the learning curve is steep but worth the effort.
I have not had any repeatability problems or random errors so i think something was probably faulty there.
They did change the default baud rate between 0.8 and 0.9 which probably didn't help.
Carl, what plasma table did you end up using. What cam software did you end up using also. I got mach 3 and a cnc router. Awesome investment. Using it more and more. I'm using v carve pro for my cad/cam as well as a free cad program for 3d parts (for my 3d printer).
It's probably because you got one with a ch340 usb-to-serial converter. These are highly unreliable. I've had the same and crashed the cnc several times because of it. The one in the video looks like it has an replaceable arduino with an atmega32u4. If you can't replace it, try a better shielded USB cable first (the chinese cables are often very bad). You can also try to shield the Board and check if the spindle motor has a filter cap, maybe even ground the motor housing.
Carl Brunberg p
just found this interesting vid u done, nice and explain a lot, about the motor aint it better to put it upside down instand of set rubber around it like oposit side (mout under instand for uper side...) ?
I fixed it by putting a thrust bearing between the stepper motor and the blue coupler. I also turned the spindle holder upside down. Works pretty well after that.
Nicely explained! Was watching it, while putting mine together :)
By the way, all nuts on the profiles are now T-nuts.
2 yrs later, how was your experience with the machine? Would you still recommend?
@@lancevanvelzen4832 Oh, already 2 years ago 🙂
I'm still using it and it still works fine. It took some time to find the right settings for the tools, like diameter a bit really cuts, but then it gives good results, also in combination with 3D printed parts.
I'm surely not a power-user but I used it to cut parts for 2 RC-planes and a couple of boxes and storage thingies.
Mostly parts which are flat and would take hours to print.
Still a recommendation for this kind of use.
@@M0rdH0rst awesome, thanks. I'm thinking of getting one with an upgraded spindle for some light aluminium machining
Hi, I loved this video. Would this little beauty cut carbon fibre?
Apparently people do but I have never tried it.
wow, such a great content, haven't seen anything this complete also very high quality
I have the same exact kit. Assembly is a nightmare, and I wish it came with the ER11 collet as a stock part. unfortunately, I stripped one of the allen set screws inside the orginial collet, and am waiting for china to deliver my ER11 collet set. Otherwise, I was very surprised with the quality of milling, and can't wait to create custom PCB boards.
Cheers :-)
Thanks for your review! Would you personally recommend this product?
Hey can cut foam? And witch better laser or cnc for foam?
Very well and professionally made video
Do you think it would be possible to use larger extruded aluminium pieces than included to increase the length it can move in each direction?(assuming you also get a larger lead screw and rails)
Thank You. Very Interesting.
Very nice video!
Would it be able to make engravings for guitar fingerboard inlays?
Yes, I believe people do that
Awesome video! Hope to see more on this machine soon! :)
Has anyone tried to use one of these to engrave into a more dense metal than aluminum? like steel or cast iron? i cant seems to find any videos or reviews with people tryin to engrave hardened steel. that would be my primary need if its possible
Its not suitable, you need a mill.
@@techydiy thanks for the quick reply.
so do you not think it would be able to engrave into steel even with the upgraded 500w motor and titanium/carbide .5mm bits? even if moving at the slowest speed.
im wanting to engrave text into the back of stainless steel watches.
Very useful tutorial and build. Thanks for this.
I bought one of these after watching your video. I did get some longer screws for some locations where the ones provided did not go all the way through the nut. The wing nuts provided for the hold downs were about two sizes too small so those aren't useful. Some of the screw holes were under size and there were not enough screws with small heads for the recessed locations. The spring did not fit in the Y drive nut so that hole had to be enlarged.
From my first test, it was clear to me that the 24VDC spindle motor had to go. The brass chuck that came with it didn't hold the bit straight which resulted in a lot of vibration and poor cuts. Also the bit is way above the table in the lowest position so a spacer of about 12mm is needed when routing thin material. I was able to modify a Dremel model 395 tool to replace the spindle motor and it works a world better. I now have adjustable speed from 5,000 to 35,000 RPM, the bits run true, and I don't need a spacer for routing the surface of thin material. I did have to remove about 2.5mm from the housing diameter in the clamp area and notch about 3mm opposite the switch to clear the Z axis motor. I'm planning to operate a relay from the original 24VDC motor feed to switch the AC power to the Dremel.
I haven't yet been able to get Easel to connect to the 3018 on my Linux system. It did work OK on Windows. Right now I have to make the gcode with Easel and pass it to a program called UGS to drive the CNC.
It may be somewhere in the documentation but I didn't see anything about the two Y axis motor connectors. They run the motor in opposite directions so change connectors if your motor goes the wrong way.
Thanks for the video. I don't think my build went as well as yours but I did end up with a working CNC.
Yes, the spindle motor is ripe for an upgrade. I am guessing the 2nd y axis connection is for machines that use two stepper motors to drive the Y axis with a belt either side. Thanks for the comment.
Great for luthiers to make inlays!!!
You read my mind :-)
no software was provided, I use Easel too. Takes a while to figure out how to engrave something
Perfect instructions, may thanks
Hi guys...is it worth to buy this machine,how is good and what can i do with it..is it precise.
Hello.Can you tell me are the threaded rods for movable bed and X Axis same lead and pich..because one of them which I ordered came bended and I want to order new one.Is there any place with spares only for 3018?
Hello, could you tell what is the exact dimension in cm between the 2 vertical aluminium bar ?
Ive been having trouble figuring out how to home my machine...i can control it fine, but the buttons that set the xy home and z home wont click....not sure what to do
hello, thank you for the video. Just have a question about the z-axis. What is the maximum distance can it travel from the tip of the tool to the working table? ( i was looking for the solution to do some type of tube fixture.
hey guys , pretty cool video, i got a cnc like this but my axis are inverted... how can i change that ? thanks
It's in the video but here you go:
For grbl 0.9
github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9#grbls-xval-settings-and-what-they-mean
$3 - Direction port invert mask:binary
This setting inverts the direction signal for each axis. By default, Grbl assumes that the axes move in a positive direction when the direction pin signal is low, and a negative direction when the pin is high. Often, axes don't move this way with some machines. This setting will invert the direction pin signal for those axes that move the opposite way.
This invert mask setting works exactly like the step port invert mask and stores which axes to invert as bit flags. To configure this setting, you simply need to send the value for the axes you want to invert. Use the table above. For example, if want to invert the Y axis direction only, you'd send $3=2 to Grbl and the setting should now read $3=2 (dir port invert mask:00000010)
So for example send $3=5 from the command console to invert the x and z axis.
@@techydiy Good follow up and great video. Well done.
How long did it take to build the Banggood 3018 Mini CNC Router Kit
A few hours but filming stuff makes it about 10x longer
Just One Question. did you ever measure the spindlee speed? As that is criticle in working out the suitable feeds and speeds for various materials. Our Mens Shed has one from woodpecker. it looks the same but the documentation was useless. Ancd we cant find the specs on the motor. and we dont have access to a rpm metre ourselves to check the speed.
775 motors are normally 10,000 rpm
@@techydiy Thanks. Very much appreciated.
Can any of the parts be upgraded without changing a bunch of stuff? Or, if i upgraded the spindle and motors to nema 23s, what has to be changed?
ua-cam.com/video/_qTjYUyNpGs/v-deo.html
thank you for this video , have you test with stainless steel plate for marker with 1MM deep
No
Very informative video. Unfortunately, G-Code can not be generated in the "free" version of Easel anymore. (December 2020)
They want me to buy the subscription before it will generate the code. Not sure when they changed this, but sadly it makes the program useless to me at this time.
Sorry about this. It is still a great video to learn from, just going to have to find some other software to use.
I just signed up as a completely new user and it let me generate gcode.
Did you use a pro feature ?
Another option is carbide create, which is a standalone program for window or mac and it's free to use.
@@techydiy I will look to be sure I didn't use a Pro feature. This looks so much more user friendly that a couple others that I looked at. Otherwise I might try deleting my account and starting over. Sometimes user error can bork things up as well.
Thanks for the quick response. Will give these a go and update when finished.
While I was looking I discovered that you can download projects as zip files (just in case you need to keep something)
@@techydiy Thanks for that tip. Will check it out as well.
Apparently I was indeed using something that was a "Pro" feature. I did get Easel to generate and export the G-Code. But something went haywire upon import to Candle software. When I hit "Send" it sends the X and Y axes to the extreme opposite end of the Home position (I have limit/homing switched installed, and the axes are functioning correctly in manual mode). The Z axis doesn't move and the spindle never starts up. I must have the worst luck with this software, LOL.
Anyways, I have given it up for the night, but will come back at it again in the morning and give it another fair go. It has to be something simple that I am overlooking.
Thanks again for the responses and advice. One way or another I will get this all sorted and (hopefully) have it working as it should.
@@techydiy Final update (December 6): I finally got it to work as it should, but in a kind of strange way. I am able to create drawings and generate/export in G-Code without issue on the Windows 10 machine. However any time I try to run the CNC from that machine, it goes all wonky. So I tried putting the exported files on a flash drive and importing those to an old WinXP laptop connected to the 3018. Ran flawlessly!
For whatever reason, GRBL/Candle does not seem to play well with my installation of Win10. But this shouldn't be much of a problem as long as I can run Easel on it. I can design projects from the comfort of my desk, then take those files out to the WinXP laptop + 3018 and run them that way.
Thanks again for letting me carry on here, and thanks for the responses and advice through this.
At 16:22 you have a piece of band iron around the motor assembly that doesn't look like it came in the kit. And you have switched to a different collet chuck. What are the reasons for this? Also, I checked the reviews of the company that you linked and they aren't very good. Has anyone had any experience with them?
I strapped a gopro camera to it with an improvised clamp made from builders band. The first attempt was with double sided tape which resulted in the camera being flung across the garage..
I explained the collet at some point in the video, it's an er11a and it allows you to use multiple sized bits. It is also a lot easier to centre bits.
@@techydiy Thank you. Just went back and saw that. oops..
Hello! Thanks for your review and. ... I have a question.
Does it work on meter? I mean... such as aluminium, steel, stainless plate.
Not steel or stainless steel
Is it possible to extend the size bying longer aluminium bar and such ?
Im looking to buy something like this but larger and more acurate to make custom pc cases ,any recomendations whats available for the double of the price of this one?
Search for 3040, 6040, mpcnc, eshapeako.
Very nice snd useful information video
Saw ths yesterday. But Im never gonna use it. I am usiing my 3d prnter which came in a kt too,
Would this be suitable for etching a copper bar and is it loud enough to cause issues with neighbours? XD
bom dia pode me informar qual valor voce usa no programa $100 $101 e $102, grato
Great video! I have had my CNC since Xmas and have had a few problems. One of the worst was a resetting of the code during a run. This was due to feedback from the motor, looping the red and black wires through an iron core stopped this.
How do you do the height probe? COuld you make a short video?
Yes sure
Well... problem with this is that its way to 'light',' and build with 3d printer grade materials
hardware you see here is suited for printers not for any kind of a 'mill'
Its ok for learning on some very soft materials maybe for hobby models?
tbh nothing bad in the fact - just don't get your expectations to high.
Very simple and concise. Excellent video. Thank you.
Just here to inform Linux users that they dont need extra drivers this machine works out of the box with Linux.
Also grblcontroll for linux is very old...try Universal gcode sender its way better (run with root to make it work tho)
Hey what kind of bit did you use when cutting acrylic?
I am awaiting delivery of my machine but am unsure of the spindle tool holder as you are. I have been looking for a similar collet chuck to that you are using but am unable to source one. Can you advise.
www.techydiy.org/banggood-3018-3-axis-mini-cnc-router-build-test-review/
Thank you because of your video tutorial, I decided to purchase this one... such detail and how to, thnx
What is the max width of the bits this machine will take? Great vid btw
1/8" or 3.175mm with the supplied collet. If you replace it with an er11a holder then it's about 7mm.
@@techydiy thanks for replying, how is the machine holding up and what us the max height of the workpiece you can fit under the bit? Thanks again
What's the edge finish like? And can you use different bits to give smoother edges? I'm thinking of getting something like this and one idea I have is to make a water cooling distro plate for my pc out of 10mm acrylic.