Thank you for your time and research on the switches! And for posting your findings! I have not done any lighting because of the switch issue, I want that "factory" look for the switch panel. So thanks again!
Watched this before I did my wiring on my 2021. The right switches were out of stock so I measured for the standard switches and cut. You need to cut the opening out but leave the top 3/8's of the area it looks like you should cut. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Taylor You saved me a WHOLE lot of aggression. I did not know Polaris used a non standard knockout. I also would not have had the slightest idea of where to find the correct switch. I ordered a 3pack of pigtails from Amazon. ( I try to stay away from them because I don’t like the way they treat there sellers) But Polaris charged me 31.00 a piece. That was after being there for 2 hours. They said they had to order them. Five days later I call Them. They said they have one in stock but never ordered the other one 😫😫😫. I got 3 for 10.45 and will be here in 2 days. Your link for the switches took me directly to the switch guys, so I called them and spoke to Jim. Told him what I needed , he said he would make them up and ship them out tomorrow. I will buy from someone like (small guy that knows what he’s doing and actually wants to make money) over some conglomerate every time. I don’t mind paying for a good product but don’t want to get analized in the process and get spit on to boot. I told him about your video. Thanks many times for the time and effort you put into the video.
Your welcome Damian! Thanks for taking the time to comment helps me and the channel grow! I've got other ranger videos on my page too if you want to check them out!
Hey dude. Great video. Thank you. Can you explain further the wiring to the pulse bar vs to the main power connectors? I'm going to be wiring in interior lights and light cubes tomorrow and need to understand better.
The pulse bar is primarily for polaris plug and play accessories. So people don't have to physically wire anything themselves. I use it in this video for a keyed ignition source so I did not have to tap into the ignition harness. This way the things I wired off of it only have power when I have the machine turned on.
@@Tyler_Koehn but can you wire an entire accessory like light cubes off just the pulse bar or is it not intended to have that much draw? Because I want the lights only to be a keyed accessory.
@@christopherderaps you would wire the switch power to the pulse bar and the relay would be powered from the battery or the 12 volt lug where the winch gets its power from
Great video. So, I just got a Kolpin Dirfworks 3 point hitch, and it comes with wiring and a switch. Did I see that you used that” power bar” under the front hood to power your winch and lights? Would that work for what I’m doing or do I need to go to the battery? The power is for the electronic activator that puts 300lbs of down pressure in the hitch for your implements. I’d rather hook it all in clean and mount the switch instead of draping the wires over the dump bed when I’m using the implements. Thank you!
Thank you. I don't know the amperage draw of your dirt works but the way I looked at it when installing the winch on it was that polaris oem utilizes the pulse bar for their winch as well. So that made me a bit more comfortable doing so as well
Can you explain how you wired the pulse bar and relay to power the switch and also do you have to use a new relay for every switch that powers an accessory??? I'm so confused how to wire my switch to power a light bar. One that will shit off when the ignition is off. Please help!
Wire the switch to the pulse bar for your ignition only power and your relay to your battery or the pulse bar 12 volt lug. Yes you would want to use a relay for each switch you would want to use unless it doesn't draw much power.
Your white wire on right side of pulse bar? Circle connection. Supposed to me a key on. Can you show me where you got the wire to plug into pulse bar. I cannot find mine on my 2018. Thanks.
Thank you very much for an informative video and good recommendations on switches, tools, and materials. I was stressed about doing this myself before I watched your video. Great job and thanks again!
Fantastic research on the switch, nothing looks worse than the wrong switch. I see you have put the cable in for the next switch and if you are like us, you will already be thinking about what to put in the other two blanks
Maybe I missed it. I'm looking at using a winch and I have the pusle bar like you, every video I see is the older style with the 3 bolts (keyed, ground, hot). Would I essentially run the Hot from the solenoid of the winch to the hot of the pulse bar solenoid, and same with the ground. Then only use the middle connector of one of the pulse plugs to make sure the winch doesn't come on unless the key is on??? I wouldn't think I would be able to take the hot and ground and keyed on to one little baby pulse bar plug.
Yeah sounds like your planning correct. If you pause at 2:32 you'll see the thick red and black coming out of my relay box going to the main pulse bar positive lug and the ground. Mine has a relay trigger wire which goes to your middle keyed pulse bar plug to turn the relay on when the key is on. Then the switches for in and out run through the wire port to my dash switch. Hope this helps
Tyler awsome video man. I am installing a 12" Rough Country LED light bar on my Bumper and it came with an ON/OFF push button type switch. I ordered the L series switch like the one in your video and i was wondering how you wired the swtch from your relay. Did you just run the hot and the ground to the switch and power to your switch from the pulse bar that works off the ignition? My wiring harness has a RED with inline fuse and a Black then from the relay to the switch it has a black blue and white wire. any help is greatly appreciated as i am a novice electrician! LOL
Thanks Seth. I use relays when wiring. So from your light hot wire would go to your relay switched power, ground gets grounded. You would have a wire going from the keyed pulse bar to your switch and then coming from your switch to your relay trigger. Wire up the relay to the hot lug on the pulse bar and ground the relay. Hope this helps
@@Tyler_Koehn It's a year down the road, so a little late for Seth. But I bought the same RC light for my 2022 Ranger 1000EPS. It came with the aforementioned low-rent push button switch. I did some testing and the switch wires are White for 12V, Black for Ground and Blue for triggering the the relay. So merely wire up the OTR switch as Tyler did with the difference being the blue wire for the light trigger as opposed to Tyler's white wire. I think!
@@Tyler_Koehn I prefer the factory look, so I am doing the exact same thing with the exact same two switches although I have added heat and heated seats.
@seasstang very nice, i bet that will be comfortable. Not sure if you already have a cab but I do have a video on doors the rear window on my channel should you want to check them out and subscribe
@@Tyler_Koehn yes I already have a cab I do want to change my doors out though to the hard factory doors so far the price I’ve been locations like 2500 but I’ll give you a follow
@seasstang ouch yeah, those are pricey. I couldn't justify it personally. I'm sure they are worth it for a lot of people, however. I'm at the point now we're we are planning on just buying a bronco/ jeep. I feel like it's a better bang for our buck since I'm not a fan of trail riding anyways.
Well done... do you put shrink tube around your blade connectors, or are there connectors that are water tight.... and what brand push pin remover do you have ? Thanks for the video
Hey Nick, The removal tool for the 280 metri-pack I use amzn.to/3cMUwFj . As far as the blades are you referring to the female spades connecting to the back of switches? If so they are not really waterproof per-say. Heat shrunk on the one side and I fill the spade with di-electric grease so they are as close to waterproof as possible. Thanks for watching
Hi Tyler! Another great how to tutorial! This step-by-step video is just what I needed to be able to add LED lights (light bar on the front bumper and rear pods on the rear bumper) to my 2021 Polaris Ranger. Nice easy to follow instructions and details of what type switches will satisfy our OCD tendencies! Ha, ha! What sort of a knot head gives a thumb down to this? I suppose they wanted you to do it for them? Great job and thank you.
Thanks Paul! I couldn't be happier with the way the switches turned out! I hear ya on the dislike viewers! I try to make these as helpful as possible but I realize I can't be everyone's cup of tea and I'm not the best at the whole video making thing. Hopefully they will continue to get better. I appreciate your support! Sounds like your rangers going to be set up nicely!
I bought the same switch to install on my 2023 Ranger with the pulse bar. I don't have any other accessories installed, so no relay. I'm going to remove the three wire switch that came with the winch. If I connect the red wire from the winch to the keyed switch port on the pulse bar connector, how do I get power for the lights in the switch? Do I need to use another pulse connector and run the power and ground from it to power the LEDs in the switch?
truly up to you on how to power the lights for the switch. At that point you could grab power from any source that has keyed ignition to it. Could just use the hot side of the switch wire to power the lights with a jumper wire.
@Tyler Koehn I was thinking that I would just run a ground from the black port off the same pulse connector to the switch ground. This way i would be using the ground and the keyed switch off the pulse connector. Then I would jumper the keyed power to the two light pins on the switch. Does this seem like it will work?
@shawneslinger2396 if I'm understanding you correctly then that should work but it's hard over the internet to understand what you mean. I would run it past a friend or a local shop as it is not worth burning up a expensive machine.
Just curious, but could you use the constant power wire to power the relay off the pulse bar and the accessory wire to the run to the switch then to the relay vs running from the posts?
I would not. If what your installing is drawing enough power to require a relay it should be getting power from the battery or in this case the battery cable that feeds the pulse bar.
Tyler, I bought a pair of the L-Series switches from OTRATTW, but the wiring is giving me fits. I jumped the power source to the keyed power/dash lights (top left pin) of the switch, but the lower light in both switches is on all the time with the battery hooked up. I’m utilizing the Nilight light bar’s included harness, which also has a relay, and used the positive negative hookups under the hood of my Ranger instead of the pulse bar. Not sure if I need to reroute everything to the pulse bar to utilize its accessory terminal? Any help is greatly appreciated! My machine is a 2021 Ranger XP1000.
Yea sounds like you you need to connect the switch to the pulse bar. This way when you turn off the key the switch backlight will turn off. Your relay should stay being fed off the positive lug.
@@Tyler_Koehn ok, so I should only wire the switch to the pulse bar and leave the main wires as they are? Also, going your route I would need to combine the wire coming from the relay in the harness and the wire coming from the pulse bar accessory terminal, correct?
@@dieselpower85 the relay should have a fused wire to the positive lug, a wire to your switch, a ground and a wire to your light. Your switch should be fed off the pulse bar for keyed power. That way when you turn off your key no lights are on and your relay can't turn on.
@@Tyler_Koehn I utilized the switch wires that came with the light bar harness. So, Sounds like I’ll need to only run the one wire from the relay to the switch then run the other 3 from the pulse bar to the switch. Gonna give it a shot. Thank you for your time, bud!
I bought these switches to match oem on my 22 ranger 570. It did not come with pulse bar or a bus bar on my machine. So for switch power I was thinking I would tap from the 12 volt power in the dash so that it would power on with key. What pin would I connect that to on the switch?
I'm sorry but I have no idea for your machine. You would have to test each wire or find a diagram. Maybe best to find a cigarette plug if you have one and get power from that.
I tapped the cigarette lighter for keyed light on the switch and worked perfect. Thank you for the video because I like my stuff to look factory as well.
Haha if that machine was a different color I was going to have to go look in my garage and see if you were out there. identical to what I’m doing right now.
Thank you for your time and research on the switches! And for posting your findings! I have not done any lighting because of the switch issue, I want that "factory" look for the switch panel. So thanks again!
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Watched this before I did my wiring on my 2021. The right switches were out of stock so I measured for the standard switches and cut. You need to cut the opening out but leave the top 3/8's of the area it looks like you should cut. Thanks for the video.
Glad it helped! Thanks for tuning in wolfpack!
Thanks Taylor
You saved me a WHOLE lot of aggression.
I did not know Polaris used a non standard knockout. I also would not have had the slightest idea of where to find the correct switch.
I ordered a 3pack of pigtails from Amazon. ( I try to stay away from them because I don’t like the way they treat there sellers) But Polaris charged me 31.00 a piece. That was after being there for 2 hours. They said they had to order them. Five days later I call Them. They said they have one in stock but never ordered the other one 😫😫😫.
I got 3 for 10.45 and will be here in 2 days.
Your link for the switches took me directly to the switch guys, so I called them and spoke to Jim. Told him what I needed , he said he would make them up and ship them out tomorrow.
I will buy from someone like (small guy that knows what he’s doing and actually wants to make money) over some conglomerate every time. I don’t mind paying for a good product but don’t want to get analized in the process and get spit on to boot.
I told him about your video.
Thanks many times for the time and effort you put into the video.
I'm so glad It helped!
I just wanted to say thanks! Your video helped me find a matching rocker switch and helped me with the wiring.
Your welcome Damian! Thanks for taking the time to comment helps me and the channel grow! I've got other ranger videos on my page too if you want to check them out!
Hey dude. Great video. Thank you. Can you explain further the wiring to the pulse bar vs to the main power connectors? I'm going to be wiring in interior lights and light cubes tomorrow and need to understand better.
The pulse bar is primarily for polaris plug and play accessories. So people don't have to physically wire anything themselves. I use it in this video for a keyed ignition source so I did not have to tap into the ignition harness. This way the things I wired off of it only have power when I have the machine turned on.
@@Tyler_Koehn but can you wire an entire accessory like light cubes off just the pulse bar or is it not intended to have that much draw? Because I want the lights only to be a keyed accessory.
@@Tyler_Koehn I'm guessing I would need to rewire the relays I got on my Nilight harnesses to use the pulse bar connection then.
@@christopherderaps you would wire the switch power to the pulse bar and the relay would be powered from the battery or the 12 volt lug where the winch gets its power from
@@Tyler_Koehn alright! Thank you! I'll mess with it today with the harness/switch I already have while waiting for the lights to arrive today.
Great video. So, I just got a Kolpin Dirfworks 3 point hitch, and it comes with wiring and a switch. Did I see that you used that” power bar” under the front hood to power your winch and lights? Would that work for what I’m doing or do I need to go to the battery? The power is for the electronic activator that puts 300lbs of down pressure in the hitch for your implements. I’d rather hook it all in clean and mount the switch instead of draping the wires over the dump bed when I’m using the implements. Thank you!
Thank you. I don't know the amperage draw of your dirt works but the way I looked at it when installing the winch on it was that polaris oem utilizes the pulse bar for their winch as well. So that made me a bit more comfortable doing so as well
I noticed you had an additional power wire (+ red) going into the jumper wires? You had switched power (red) and this also? Please explain
If your referring to the switches it was for the switch backlighting
Can you explain how you wired the pulse bar and relay to power the switch and also do you have to use a new relay for every switch that powers an accessory???
I'm so confused how to wire my switch to power a light bar. One that will shit off when the ignition is off. Please help!
About to do the same and trying to understand as well.
Wire the switch to the pulse bar for your ignition only power and your relay to your battery or the pulse bar 12 volt lug. Yes you would want to use a relay for each switch you would want to use unless it doesn't draw much power.
@@Tyler_Koehn Thanks a lot man! I appreciate it. I'll be doing this soon for some of my lights and accessories.
@@rockytoptech1308 no problem good luck bud
Your white wire on right side of pulse bar? Circle connection. Supposed to me a key on. Can you show me where you got the wire to plug into pulse bar. I cannot find mine on my 2018. Thanks.
Thank you very much for an informative video and good recommendations on switches, tools, and materials. I was stressed about doing this myself before I watched your video. Great job and thanks again!
Your welcome Chris! Thanks for watching!
Nicely done Tyler! Should work well for you! Have a good weekend!
Thanks bud! You too!
Fantastic research on the switch, nothing looks worse than the wrong switch. I see you have put the cable in for the next switch and if you are like us, you will already be thinking about what to put in the other two blanks
Haha you know it buddy! Gears are always turning. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Maybe I missed it. I'm looking at using a winch and I have the pusle bar like you, every video I see is the older style with the 3 bolts (keyed, ground, hot). Would I essentially run the Hot from the solenoid of the winch to the hot of the pulse bar solenoid, and same with the ground. Then only use the middle connector of one of the pulse plugs to make sure the winch doesn't come on unless the key is on??? I wouldn't think I would be able to take the hot and ground and keyed on to one little baby pulse bar plug.
Yeah sounds like your planning correct. If you pause at 2:32 you'll see the thick red and black coming out of my relay box going to the main pulse bar positive lug and the ground. Mine has a relay trigger wire which goes to your middle keyed pulse bar plug to turn the relay on when the key is on. Then the switches for in and out run through the wire port to my dash switch. Hope this helps
Tyler awsome video man. I am installing a 12" Rough Country LED light bar on my Bumper and it came with an ON/OFF push button type switch. I ordered the L series switch like the one in your video and i was wondering how you wired the swtch from your relay. Did you just run the hot and the ground to the switch and power to your switch from the pulse bar that works off the ignition? My wiring harness has a RED with inline fuse and a Black then from the relay to the switch it has a black blue and white wire. any help is greatly appreciated as i am a novice electrician! LOL
Thanks Seth. I use relays when wiring. So from your light hot wire would go to your relay switched power, ground gets grounded. You would have a wire going from the keyed pulse bar to your switch and then coming from your switch to your relay trigger. Wire up the relay to the hot lug on the pulse bar and ground the relay. Hope this helps
@@Tyler_Koehn It's a year down the road, so a little late for Seth. But I bought the same RC light for my 2022 Ranger 1000EPS. It came with the aforementioned low-rent push button switch. I did some testing and the switch wires are White for 12V, Black for Ground and Blue for triggering the the relay. So merely wire up the OTR switch as Tyler did with the difference being the blue wire for the light trigger as opposed to Tyler's white wire. I think!
I am putting the exact same to in my 22 and it was almost 70 for the two switches
Definitely more cost-effective options out there, but I will say these do make it look professional. Thanks for watching.
@@Tyler_Koehn I prefer the factory look, so I am doing the exact same thing with the exact same two switches although I have added heat and heated seats.
@seasstang very nice, i bet that will be comfortable. Not sure if you already have a cab but I do have a video on doors the rear window on my channel should you want to check them out and subscribe
@@Tyler_Koehn yes I already have a cab I do want to change my doors out though to the hard factory doors so far the price I’ve been locations like 2500 but I’ll give you a follow
@seasstang ouch yeah, those are pricey. I couldn't justify it personally. I'm sure they are worth it for a lot of people, however.
I'm at the point now we're we are planning on just buying a bronco/ jeep.
I feel like it's a better bang for our buck since I'm not a fan of trail riding anyways.
Well done... do you put shrink tube around your blade connectors, or are there connectors that are water tight.... and what brand push pin remover do you have ? Thanks for the video
Hey Nick, The removal tool for the 280 metri-pack I use amzn.to/3cMUwFj . As far as the blades are you referring to the female spades connecting to the back of switches? If so they are not really waterproof per-say. Heat shrunk on the one side and I fill the spade with di-electric grease so they are as close to waterproof as possible. Thanks for watching
i did not see you uae a fuse ?
The lightbar is fused but the winch is not. As far as I have seen you don't typically put one on that. Not saying it wouldn't be a good idea.
Excellent how to video. Thanks man!!
Your welcome! Glad it helps!
Do you recall the item number on your winch rocker switch that you got from otrattw? Thanks
I looked it up
L18CNNWN-1IO for winch
L11GBBDR-5LB light bar
Great. Thank you!!
@user-mn9fv2jk1m your welcome. Please help me out by liking the video and subscribing.
Hi Tyler! Another great how to tutorial! This step-by-step video is just what I needed to be able to add LED lights (light bar on the front bumper and rear pods on the rear bumper) to my 2021 Polaris Ranger. Nice easy to follow instructions and details of what type switches will satisfy our OCD tendencies! Ha, ha! What sort of a knot head gives a thumb down to this? I suppose they wanted you to do it for them? Great job and thank you.
Thanks Paul! I couldn't be happier with the way the switches turned out! I hear ya on the dislike viewers! I try to make these as helpful as possible but I realize I can't be everyone's cup of tea and I'm not the best at the whole video making thing. Hopefully they will continue to get better. I appreciate your support! Sounds like your rangers going to be set up nicely!
I bought the same switch to install on my 2023 Ranger with the pulse bar. I don't have any other accessories installed, so no relay. I'm going to remove the three wire switch that came with the winch. If I connect the red wire from the winch to the keyed switch port on the pulse bar connector, how do I get power for the lights in the switch? Do I need to use another pulse connector and run the power and ground from it to power the LEDs in the switch?
truly up to you on how to power the lights for the switch. At that point you could grab power from any source that has keyed ignition to it. Could just use the hot side of the switch wire to power the lights with a jumper wire.
@Tyler Koehn I was thinking that I would just run a ground from the black port off the same pulse connector to the switch ground. This way i would be using the ground and the keyed switch off the pulse connector. Then I would jumper the keyed power to the two light pins on the switch. Does this seem like it will work?
@shawneslinger2396 if I'm understanding you correctly then that should work but it's hard over the internet to understand what you mean. I would run it past a friend or a local shop as it is not worth burning up a expensive machine.
Just curious, but could you use the constant power wire to power the relay off the pulse bar and the accessory wire to the run to the switch then to the relay vs running from the posts?
I would not. If what your installing is drawing enough power to require a relay it should be getting power from the battery or in this case the battery cable that feeds the pulse bar.
Good evening Sir 😊 Great switch set ups Sir and you are very well Electric tool equip 👍 Have a great week end and Keep Warm Sir Cheers !!!
You too buddy!
Thank you, very informative. I am wanting to get my weed sprayer had wired.
Your welcome Joe!
Tyler, I bought a pair of the L-Series switches from OTRATTW, but the wiring is giving me fits. I jumped the power source to the keyed power/dash lights (top left pin) of the switch, but the lower light in both switches is on all the time with the battery hooked up. I’m utilizing the Nilight light bar’s included harness, which also has a relay, and used the positive negative hookups under the hood of my Ranger instead of the pulse bar. Not sure if I need to reroute everything to the pulse bar to utilize its accessory terminal? Any help is greatly appreciated! My machine is a 2021 Ranger XP1000.
Yea sounds like you you need to connect the switch to the pulse bar. This way when you turn off the key the switch backlight will turn off. Your relay should stay being fed off the positive lug.
@@Tyler_Koehn ok, so I should only wire the switch to the pulse bar and leave the main wires as they are? Also, going your route I would need to combine the wire coming from the relay in the harness and the wire coming from the pulse bar accessory terminal, correct?
@@dieselpower85 the relay should have a fused wire to the positive lug, a wire to your switch, a ground and a wire to your light. Your switch should be fed off the pulse bar for keyed power. That way when you turn off your key no lights are on and your relay can't turn on.
@@Tyler_Koehn I utilized the switch wires that came with the light bar harness. So, Sounds like I’ll need to only run the one wire from the relay to the switch then run the other 3 from the pulse bar to the switch. Gonna give it a shot. Thank you for your time, bud!
I bought these switches to match oem on my 22 ranger 570. It did not come with pulse bar or a bus bar on my machine. So for switch power I was thinking I would tap from the 12 volt power in the dash so that it would power on with key. What pin would I connect that to on the switch?
I'm sorry but I have no idea for your machine. You would have to test each wire or find a diagram. Maybe best to find a cigarette plug if you have one and get power from that.
I tapped the cigarette lighter for keyed light on the switch and worked perfect. Thank you for the video because I like my stuff to look factory as well.
@@EURRIZOLA your welcome glad it worked out
What winch did you install?
Super atv 4500lbs wireless remote
Thank You
Your welcome!
Haha if that machine was a different color I was going to have to go look in my garage and see if you were out there. identical to what I’m doing right now.
Hahaha
Thanks for watching! Please hit the subscribe button!
Nice Work!!!
Thank you Gary!
GOOD JOB
Thanks Chris, I appreciate you watchin!
nice video
Thanks Darrell!
Use that dialetic greese stuff for those chinese one
lol