Best suspension vid I've come across. Hands down. Explained perfectly and made so much sense.. needed to adjust my 450 to suit a rider 30kgs lighter. So this is huge for me thanks so much.
suspension and carbs are two of the most difficult things to set up being they often dont have one size fits all.You do a great job for those of us that are looking for advise.Being you are a small shop with a big network behind you you cant help but give people a great product.
Thanks for the last but about the rear spring and rebound. I'm 195 lbs and I went up on my spring rate, but I my rebound was so fast I thought my shock was blown. I had to slow the rebound all the way down. Now it makes sense why I had to do that.
A tip I learned from Joe Shedron, If you feel like your shock rebound is not slowing down with the clickers it can be your high speed compression is to stiff. The lack of compression feels like fast rebound because it kicks you in a similar way.
@@kenstutzman9116 that's awesome, I raced with Joey as a kid and worked with the Joe for a bit at Moose racing back when Pete Dennison owned the company.
Hey brother thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain all the little nuances of how the suspension really works I know it’s voodoo to the common folk but you did a great job… we appreciate it.
I was originally thinking changing a spring rate would not necessarily change the rebound dampening/speed because it’s relative to the counterforce of the rider weight, but it certainly makes sense that it WOULD change because we’re talking about when the bike is essentially periodically de-weighted between bump hits or jumping. Very good info!
One of the best suspension videos I’ve seen. Very informative with simple easy to understand analogies. I got several tips from this video to go try on my bike today with confidence now. Thanks for the video brotha 🤙
I have found that if I'm riding multiple types of riding, with the same bike (MX, XC or trail) I keep a log and write all settings down for each type. Then when I go to that type, reset all clickers to what I liked there last time.
I'm fifty-nine had a blood clot in my head lost weight and I'm short had my seat off for 3 years to ride my 4 yr old son put back on felt super short super old.Now I know I can set my sag and feel like I'm 52 ! Thank you you did a great job explaining to a guy that is smart enough to know he's Dumb
You explained suspension settings really well my front fork indicators are around 2inch from the bottom most of time but do suffer with wash out on front end a lot of the time thought my rebound was about right too will check settings again thank you👍
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. You've got a great laidback everyman style of delivery that makes the info easy to absorb. Kudos man!
Thanks for this video. It affirmed what I know and helped me figure out what the high speed setting is doing. I’ve never really messed with that because I’ve always been a trail rider and figured “high speed” isn’t coming into play. So thank you again. Wish I was closer to your shop.
Cool. I have ConeValve/Traxx suspension on my '19 300 XC-W 6 Days. Absolutely magical performance. Great videos. BTW, I'll be watching your videos to determine if I want to add a 2024 300 XC-W TBI to my stable next year.
I don’t know anything about suspension setting’s. However one thing I do know it does come down to a riders preference and skill level. Not to mention the terrain. Sometimes you can help certain bikes with a geometry adjustment that compliments the suspension. Offset triple clamps, gearing, chain length how far back the rear axle is located in the swing arm affects more. Any modern bike has fairly decent suspension , unless you are E.T. He’s doing fairly good by just pinning it.
Suspension is like jetting. You should write down your settings for the area you are riding and catalog as much information as possible. For example, going from Washougal to mountain view means a change in clickers and jetting. Suspension tuning is extremely time consuming. You should only adjust 1 clicker at a time until you have base settings and then you can test multiple settings. Every time you straddle your saddle you are testing something. My 1st revalve experience was Paul thedes race tech back in 1988. It was money well spent. If you buy a bike you should have a Suspension modification budget
You nailed it right on the head. There are so mini people out there that don’t have there suspension tuned for the Weight and skill level. If your some what fast without tuning you will be way faster with tuned suspension. Just take it to Highland Cycles and let Morgan make you faster. Thanks for sharing my friend.
I like that you say if it feels good enough for your riding style and skill than don't touch it. I'm a big guy so I have to have my suspension sprung for me for it to work properly. But most the suspension guys I've met encourage everyone to get theirs done weather it will actually make a difference for that person or not.
I like my sag a little taller in the back to keep weight on the front tire and make the bike turn better. But I'm on a 15 crf250r and it needs all the help it can get turning.
When you talk about rebound too fast and kicking rear at 16:35 . I’ve found a lot of the time a faster rebound will only kick you like that if compression is too soft . Because it gets down low in stoke and then springs right back . Firming up compression can eliminate this without even touching the rebound . I’d you have a soft rear and then slow rebound down it will feel good on larger slow speed bumps but then higher speed it will squat , deflect and feel super harsh ! Soft forks and firm rear will give you that kick too . There’s so many things that can be happening it can get so confusing 🤨
@@highlandcycles I hear that, but my confusion lies with the easily obtainable information for the rear and it’s setting for static and race but almost no information on front preload settings, not that I’ve been able to find
What no one says: your springs and valving share the force of impact. Heavier springs take up more energy from the impacts meaning the damping circuits have less influence on overall behavior. Also, the clickers only control the damping from the orifice. The valve stack handles everything else. Think about how the needle valve controls the mid 50% of jetting but also overlaps the main jets range of effectiveness. It all overlaps. Clickers = pilot jet, valving = needle and main jet in carb.
Excellent video. It provides free valuable information thank you. can you help me with the following problem I have a 1994 RM 250 and i have noticed that my damper rod doesn’t come out completely and it’s hard to pull out what should be my first place to look?
Great vid lots of good information! I was under the impression that lets say the compression clickers were only effective in the 1st part of the stroke then the valving takes over controlling the oil? Also you didn't mention how effective it is to adjust oil levels which control the amount of compressed air in the forks. Im thinking a large % of problems for average riders not all can be fixed with oil levels?
Oil level is super important but I’m not a big fan of trying to “fix” suspension problems with it. It is effectively like changing spring rates and I like to get that right with the spring. As far as the clickers, they are controlling the bypass of oil which has effect for the whole stroke.
Great video! You have a way of explaining and using example situations that I’ve never seen before. Keep up the good work! 👍 Anyway. Whatever. DIRT BIKES!!
Good video. I learned a lot. I've watched quite a few videos on tuning your suspension, but they are always a little vague. I like how you describe symptoms and scenarios to recognize if your dampening is to fast or slow.
Awesome video can't wait to make some adjustments based off your suggestions. I know you use springs in the forks but what about those who still run air? What psi do you suggest for desert racing for a 160lb B rider. Also whats your thoughts about adding fork oil instead of psi for bottoming resistance?
I would run around 135psi and at your weight, a few more psi won't make anything worse. If you were heavier and needing to run over 160psi I would recommend adding oil because the air forks get stickier the more air you add.
very well explained. i have been searching for any video to explain suspension as well as you have. I have 2007 YZ250F and have struggled some with figuring out my set up... desert, high speed whoops, 4th and 5th gear and slow rollers in sand mostly 3th and 4th gear. Single track trail slow 1st and 2nd gear and rocky hill sections, and some hill climbs with more speed 3rd and drop to 2nd gear. I am curious to know if have particular area terrain (So. Calif ... Kennedy Meadows, Dove Springs-Jawbone Canyon, Texas Canyon,) settings for suspension similar to knowing tracks and conditions and tuning suspension accordingly, per rider info and riding style??
On the rear shock, when you say you line the high speed in 2 turns and the slow speed out a few clicks, where are you starting? The middle? Or the far end one way or the other?
If you're in the woods going over logs in the rear end of the bike is smacking you in the butt back your high-speed off to about two and a half turns especially if you're hitting good size logs
First ...thanks a lot ... But what about the pressure on the blader of rear shock? It makes a lot difference depending on how much pressure we put in... Where can i find the stock pressure for dirt bikes?
It does make a difference but I don't include that here because it takes having a nitrogen setup and most people don't. To find the stock amount for your bike you might have to get a shop manual or you can ask your local suspension tuner. If you email me I can tell you what we recommend. morgan@highland-cycles.com
Ah,suspension...one of the mysteries of the universe, sorta like black holes, gravity wells, space time continuum and light speed all combined to propel oneself in a forward direction without total annihilation and spreading ones atoms into the cold abyss. Looks like I should just bring my bike in to you! I'll be talking with you in the near future about proper valving and spring setup.
Please for a bit of a help i ha e a kxf450 i m 140kg 6.2 i put racetech srsp652666 6.6kg spring on it can you pls help me with numbers to make it right.Thank you
I didnt find the part where it explains... I have 100mm of travel, I would like 103-105... i should rotate it anti clock wise, correct? And to reduce SAG (Say I wanted 95mm) I would rotate it clockwise?
I just picked up my new 2024 Yamaha WR450 a couple of days ago. The suspension seams pretty stiff what weight riders are these stock bike set up for? I trail ride old logging roads and dual tracks in far NE Wisconsin. I am around 170 pounds ready to ride and also a retired old fart. Thanks
So, i bought a 2024 KX450 2 weeks ago. Im new to the suspension setup. My sag is guaranteed to be off cause i weigh 150, and the bike was set for 165 to 180. Coming into a cor er, the front end knifes alot and i feel like im about to be thrown off. I'm just looking for a little info on what to change for my weight besides the sag.
Start with getting the right spring for your weight. Then, I personally really like the bladder conversion for the reservoir. It really helps with small bump compliance. Not necessary but a good upgrade for not a ton of money. Then from there I’d set in in the “comfort” settings from KTM and start tuning out on the trail. Hope that helps
@@highlandcycles cheers i have installed the correct springs , was considering the bladder conversion also , but the shock just feels dead no matter what setting i put it on But i will try comfort setting and tune from there 👍🏻
If you are finishing every ride with 3-4" inches on unused travel on yz sss is that something that needs to be addressed or more a kayaba thing? Clickers make no difference even fully out, also dropped 40ml of oil.. zero change in travel used. Not happy with forks can never find Goldilocks setting.. maybe spring rate to high?
Can I ask if your seat is the soft model. And how is it for comfort ? I got a Enduro engineering seat soft it's pretty good. But might want to try the seat you have as well. Is it still good after 3 hours or more of riding ?
What would you adjust if the rear what’s to slid out went turning , it does it on flat and in shallow ruts too. I tried faster rebound and more compression helped some but still what’s to slid out . I did not do anything with the hi speed set at 1 1/2 out ?
Local suspension shop says they can machine my existing valves and make it better. Anyone has such experience and can you tell me if this kind of mod can work?
No. I know it seems that way. But to have correct rider sag and no static it means you had to turn the preload too much and therefore the spring is to soft
I enjoy your videos and god bless you for your time and i have a couple questions i hope you could help me out till i raise enough funds to have my stuff revalved im a big dude 270 ride a 2017 ktm 300xc with air forks set to racetech psi recommend psi and rear spring to..any recommendations for clicker settings until i can have it revalved to help get me riding my dirtbike more!!mostly 3rd gear rocky rooty norcal woods riding with some technical slow jazz mixed in
@@highlandcycles thank you man I appreciate you taking time to help me out and I just wanted to say I really enjoy your gospel on 2 wheels videos and it's sure funny how certain things come into life when your trying to become a better Christian! thank you again and God bless
Suspension always confuses me. I’ve always adjusted by riding the same loop, and making small adjustments. My manual has numbers listed for “soft “normal” and “sport” settings. I have KYB front and rear suspension. To hit the numbers they have listed, I would go clockwise till the clicker stops and go counter clockwise to count for those numbers? Is that correct? 😅
we all are dealing with sophisticated hydraulic-systems, aka fork and shock. everybody tries to set his (once set') hydraulics to variable circumstances. it's always a compromise... perhaps one day we will have regulated, sensitive hydraulics on our offroad-bikes, to be able to ride motocross, enduro and rally with the same hydraulics...
Hey mate going mad here haha Got a 06 525 I can't seem to find the com adjuster on the bottom of the forks can see the + and - but nowhere to adjust am I blind or retarted where is it 😊😂
Stupid me didn't realise the cap comes off 🤣 been getting more serious about enduro riding and need the front to stop washing out as much, never touched suspension before Thanks mate muchly appreciated
So I had someone set up my kx 450f 2013 but now it seems every jump I hit my bike just kicks the back out to the left everytime now driving me crazy what should I do for that high speed?
I got a kx450 2013 as well, on the shock I run 100mm sag, 1 3/4 turns out on hi speed, 10 clicks out low speed, rebound 14 clicks out. Forks 38psi, compression 11 clicks out rebound 19 clicks out.
I got a kx450 2013 as well, on the shock I run 100mm sag, 1 3/4 turns out on hi speed, 10 clicks out low speed, rebound 14 clicks out. Forks 38psi, compression 11 clicks out rebound 19 clicks out.
Ok, this has to be the best, most straightforward, explanation of what is going on with suspension adjustments I've ever seen. Great video.
Glad you liked it!
Probably the most useful video I've ever seen on UA-cam! Excited to dial in my bike this weekend. Thank you sir!
Great to hear!
Best suspension vid I've come across. Hands down. Explained perfectly and made so much sense.. needed to adjust my 450 to suit a rider 30kgs lighter. So this is huge for me thanks so much.
Glad it helped!
suspension and carbs are two of the most difficult things to set up being they often dont have one size fits all.You do a great job for those of us that are looking for advise.Being you are a small shop with a big network behind you you cant help but give people a great product.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for the last but about the rear spring and rebound. I'm 195 lbs and I went up on my spring rate, but I my rebound was so fast I thought my shock was blown. I had to slow the rebound all the way down. Now it makes sense why I had to do that.
I've watched again( at least 5 other times too), HUGE THANK YOU for making this.
I'm still working on stopping, and not tipping over!
You got this!
Downloaded and saved so I can easily revert back while I'm in the shop, THANK YOU FOR THIS!
Glad I could help!
A tip I learned from Joe Shedron, If you feel like your shock rebound is not slowing down with the clickers it can be your high speed compression is to stiff. The lack of compression feels like fast rebound because it kicks you in a similar way.
Great info!
Joe's Is the man My best friend
@@kenstutzman9116 that's awesome, I raced with Joey as a kid and worked with the Joe for a bit at Moose racing back when Pete Dennison owned the company.
Hey brother thank you for taking the time to make this video and explain all the little nuances of how the suspension really works I know it’s voodoo to the common folk but you did a great job… we appreciate it.
Thanks
I was originally thinking changing a spring rate would not necessarily change the rebound dampening/speed because it’s relative to the counterforce of the rider weight, but it certainly makes sense that it WOULD change because we’re talking about when the bike is essentially periodically de-weighted between bump hits or jumping. Very good info!
One of the best suspension videos I’ve seen. Very informative with simple easy to understand analogies. I got several tips from this video to go try on my bike today with confidence now. Thanks for the video brotha 🤙
Stoked you liked it
Set my suspension up at a moto track, it felt great. Next weekend raced a woods race without changing it. It felt like I was riding a jackhammer.
I have found that if I'm riding multiple types of riding, with the same bike (MX, XC or trail) I keep a log and write all settings down for each type. Then when I go to that type, reset all clickers to what I liked there last time.
I had to buy 2 bikes lol
I'm fifty-nine had a blood clot in my head lost weight and I'm short had my seat off for 3 years to ride my 4 yr old son put back on felt super short super old.Now I know I can set my sag and feel like I'm 52 ! Thank you you did a great job explaining to a guy that is smart enough to know he's Dumb
My newest reference video. Though my brand is different, I think all our dials are the same and this is going to help A LOT! Thanks again Morgan.
Awesome. Yes the controls are all the same.
You explained suspension settings really well my front fork indicators are around 2inch from the bottom most of time but do suffer with wash out on front end a lot of the time thought my rebound was about right too will check settings again thank you👍
Right on
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. You've got a great laidback everyman style of delivery that makes the info easy to absorb. Kudos man!
Thanks so much
Thanks for this video. It affirmed what I know and helped me figure out what the high speed setting is doing. I’ve never really messed with that because I’ve always been a trail rider and figured “high speed” isn’t coming into play. So thank you again. Wish I was closer to your shop.
Great to hear
just got my shock serviced at 80hr, oh man felt so good after
21 sherco 2502stroke. 150lbs stock springs. KYB killin it
It’s crazy how good a well serviced shock feels.
Cool. I have ConeValve/Traxx suspension on my '19 300 XC-W 6 Days. Absolutely magical performance. Great videos. BTW, I'll be watching your videos to determine if I want to add a 2024 300 XC-W TBI to my stable next year.
I don’t know anything about suspension setting’s.
However one thing I do know it does come down to a riders preference and skill level.
Not to mention the terrain. Sometimes you can help certain bikes with a geometry adjustment that compliments the suspension.
Offset triple clamps, gearing, chain length how far back the rear axle is located in the swing arm affects more.
Any modern bike has fairly decent suspension , unless you are E.T. He’s doing fairly good by just pinning it.
Thanks Morgan. Enjoy your down to earth videos. Being an Aussie I can relate to your whackyness. Keep up the great.
Thanks
My headphones aren’t quite relating what you’re saying. Email please? I enjoy what you’re doing by the way! 🤘🏻🇺🇸🤘🏻
Suspension is like jetting. You should write down your settings for the area you are riding and catalog as much information as possible. For example, going from Washougal to mountain view means a change in clickers and jetting. Suspension tuning is extremely time consuming. You should only adjust 1 clicker at a time until you have base settings and then you can test multiple settings. Every time you straddle your saddle you are testing something. My 1st revalve experience was Paul thedes race tech back in 1988. It was money well spent. If you buy a bike you should have a Suspension modification budget
Best video on the subject I've seen yet
Thank you
You nailed it right on the head. There are so mini people out there that don’t have there suspension tuned for the Weight and skill level. If your some what fast without tuning you will be way faster with tuned suspension. Just take it to Highland Cycles and let Morgan make you faster.
Thanks for sharing my friend.
Thank you so much
@@highlandcycles got you a little PR. Lol
I like that you say if it feels good enough for your riding style and skill than don't touch it. I'm a big guy so I have to have my suspension sprung for me for it to work properly. But most the suspension guys I've met encourage everyone to get theirs done weather it will actually make a difference for that person or not.
Yeah, I hate that. People need to just ride their bikes. If you can afford it and you want the most out of your bike then by all means.
I like my sag a little taller in the back to keep weight on the front tire and make the bike turn better. But I'm on a 15 crf250r and it needs all the help it can get turning.
This is going to help a lot of people mate, good job!!
Thanks so much
Your just the greatest guy in the world God bless you and family hope to meet you some day
Thanks n
When you talk about rebound too fast and kicking rear at 16:35 . I’ve found a lot of the time a faster rebound will only kick you like that if compression is too soft . Because it gets down low in stoke and then springs right back . Firming up compression can eliminate this without even touching the rebound . I’d you have a soft rear and then slow rebound down it will feel good on larger slow speed bumps but then higher speed it will squat , deflect and feel super harsh ! Soft forks and firm rear will give you that kick too . There’s so many things that can be happening it can get so confusing 🤨
It can be so many things. You are right. A lot of the time I will slow the high speed comp down and help the kicking.
Just by the way he talks about this stuff, you know he knows his shit 👌🏻
❤️
Morgan is a God! Thank you for all your knowledge and sharing it. You rule sir
Hahah. Thanks.
I totally second the notion I wish I was closer to his shop also he's pretty much dead on from what I know about suspension
Yeah I’m curious, what to do with a preload adjuster like on the Sachs forks for Beta
You can use it just like the shock. In theory you should be setting the sag in the front too. It’s just that most forks don’t have the adjustment b
@@highlandcycles I hear that, but my confusion lies with the easily obtainable information for the rear and it’s setting for static and race but almost no information on front preload settings, not that I’ve been able to find
What no one says: your springs and valving share the force of impact. Heavier springs take up more energy from the impacts meaning the damping circuits have less influence on overall behavior. Also, the clickers only control the damping from the orifice. The valve stack handles everything else. Think about how the needle valve controls the mid 50% of jetting but also overlaps the main jets range of effectiveness. It all overlaps. Clickers = pilot jet, valving = needle and main jet in carb.
Super sweet, glad to see this!
Hope it helps
Fly fishing and dirtbikes…… I’m on the wrong effin coast ! Also, amazing and super informative video I feel like I learned a ton!
Awesome!!
Excellent video. It provides free valuable information thank you. can you help me with the following problem I have a 1994 RM 250 and i have noticed that my damper rod doesn’t come out completely and it’s hard to pull out what should be my first place to look?
I don’t know those bikes well.
Thank you for taking the time
Great vid lots of good information!
I was under the impression that lets say the compression clickers were only effective in the 1st part of the stroke then the valving takes over controlling the oil?
Also you didn't mention how effective it is to adjust oil levels which control the amount of compressed air in the forks. Im thinking a large % of problems for average riders not all can be fixed with oil levels?
Oil level is super important but I’m not a big fan of trying to “fix” suspension problems with it. It is effectively like changing spring rates and I like to get that right with the spring. As far as the clickers, they are controlling the bypass of oil which has effect for the whole stroke.
Great video! You have a way of explaining and using example situations that I’ve never seen before. Keep up the good work! 👍 Anyway. Whatever. DIRT BIKES!!
Thank you! 😃
Hi Morgan love the video
Is it possible to do a new one with the air fork and rear bladder if any different to stock thanks
The tuning is the same.
if you o-ring goes all the way down on forks you need to add preload first or change springs :)
Unless your sag numbers are correct. Then it’s a damping issue
Good video. I learned a lot. I've watched quite a few videos on tuning your suspension, but they are always a little vague. I like how you describe symptoms and scenarios to recognize if your dampening is to fast or slow.
Awesome video can't wait to make some adjustments based off your suggestions. I know you use springs in the forks but what about those who still run air? What psi do you suggest for desert racing for a 160lb B rider. Also whats your thoughts about adding fork oil instead of psi for bottoming resistance?
I would run around 135psi and at your weight, a few more psi won't make anything worse. If you were heavier and needing to run over 160psi I would recommend adding oil because the air forks get stickier the more air you add.
Thanks for the quick response. I'm up to 161psi right now to prevent bottoming out. I'll try another 10ccs of 4w and lower psi.
@@nblracer253 yeah, try that and you might want to slow the compression damping down too.
This helped a ton thanks m8🤙🏻
Best one yet
very well explained. i have been searching for any video to explain suspension as well as you have. I have 2007 YZ250F and have struggled some with figuring out my set up... desert, high speed whoops, 4th and 5th gear and slow rollers in sand mostly 3th and 4th gear. Single track trail slow 1st and 2nd gear and rocky hill sections, and some hill climbs with more speed 3rd and drop to 2nd gear.
I am curious to know if have particular area terrain (So. Calif ... Kennedy Meadows, Dove Springs-Jawbone Canyon, Texas Canyon,) settings for suspension similar to knowing tracks and conditions and tuning suspension accordingly, per rider info and riding style??
Not sure. I would start with compression 10 out and rebound 13 out front and rear. High speed 1.5 out
On the rear shock, when you say you line the high speed in 2 turns and the slow speed out a few clicks, where are you starting?
The middle?
Or the far end one way or the other?
On all suspension settings you start from turned all the way in. So righty tighty till it stops and then back it out.
Excellent Morgan. Thanks for that.
You bet
If you're in the woods going over logs in the rear end of the bike is smacking you in the butt back your high-speed off to about two and a half turns especially if you're hitting good size logs
Great video, thanks bloke 👌
Great explanation! Thanks
Awesome video, thanks for the info!
You bet. Hope it helps
good job explaining
Thanks
2022 KTM SX-E5 spring for 74lbs rider?
What's your free and static sag setting on your new 300xc?
Static is 30mm. Rider is 105
First ...thanks a lot ... But what about the pressure on the blader of rear shock? It makes a lot difference depending on how much pressure we put in... Where can i find the stock pressure for dirt bikes?
It does make a difference but I don't include that here because it takes having a nitrogen setup and most people don't. To find the stock amount for your bike you might have to get a shop manual or you can ask your local suspension tuner. If you email me I can tell you what we recommend. morgan@highland-cycles.com
Typically it's around 135psi
Can you do one about air forks like on a KTM for example?
Yeah.
Great info man! What's your take on those zeta lowering spacers for shocks? (Could maybe be another video topic idea for ya)
Yeah. They are ok as long as you also shorten the spring. If you just put those in you can over pre load the spring, making it super harsh
@@highlandcycles what about lowering links?
@@derek_underwood they are great
@@highlandcycles wouldn't a shorter spring be more harsh (stiff)? Because a shorter spring is stiffer than a long one 🤔
@@my-max-media7621 it can be but if you get the right rate it’s good
Great video Morgan!
Thanks
To reduce shipping costs, is there a TBT shop out in the Midwest?
Not 100% sure. I would check TBTracing.com
Ah,suspension...one of the mysteries of the universe, sorta like black holes, gravity wells, space time continuum and light speed all combined to propel oneself in a forward direction without total annihilation and spreading ones atoms into the cold abyss. Looks like I should just bring my bike in to you! I'll be talking with you in the near future about proper valving and spring setup.
Hahaha, Sounds good!
Like a black art. I'm gonna have to sacrifice a tire by throwing it off a jump to satisfy the suspension gods.
Please for a bit of a help i ha e a kxf450 i m 140kg 6.2 i put racetech srsp652666 6.6kg spring on it can you pls help me with numbers to make it right.Thank you
As always, Love the Content 😎
Thanks so much
Do you know if the stance can be lowered on a 1979 Yamaha YZ250. I would like for it to sit a little lower. Any help would be appreciated.
I don’t know much about those bikes. It I’m sure it can be done.
I didnt find the part where it explains... I have 100mm of travel, I would like 103-105... i should rotate it anti clock wise, correct? And to reduce SAG (Say I wanted 95mm) I would rotate it clockwise?
Loosen spring for more sag. Tighten for less
I just picked up my new 2024 Yamaha WR450 a couple of days ago. The suspension seams pretty stiff what weight riders are these stock bike set up for? I trail ride old logging roads and dual tracks in far NE Wisconsin. I am around 170 pounds ready to ride and also a retired old fart. Thanks
Generally they are setup for around 175lbs so you’re right in there. I’d ride it a bit and let things break in.
Thank You @@highlandcycles
So, i bought a 2024 KX450 2 weeks ago.
Im new to the suspension setup.
My sag is guaranteed to be off cause i weigh 150, and the bike was set for 165 to 180.
Coming into a cor er, the front end knifes alot and i feel like im about to be thrown off.
I'm just looking for a little info on what to change for my weight besides the sag.
Get the right springs first
@@highlandcycles could I not lower compression on the front end and set my sag alittle lower? Maybe decrease rebound ?
If it's knifing the you need to take weight of the front , so push the fork tubes further down the triple clamps.
What brand of springs do you endorse?
Q or CSR
Quick question , i have been trying to get my tx300 xact shock to work well on trails with no luck any tips?
Start with getting the right spring for your weight. Then, I personally really like the bladder conversion for the reservoir. It really helps with small bump compliance. Not necessary but a good upgrade for not a ton of money. Then from there I’d set in in the “comfort” settings from KTM and start tuning out on the trail. Hope that helps
@@highlandcycles cheers i have installed the correct springs , was considering the bladder conversion also , but the shock just feels dead no matter what setting i put it on
But i will try comfort setting and tune from there 👍🏻
@@enduro-parts-aus start there. I love the bladder personally.
If you are finishing every ride with 3-4" inches on unused travel on yz sss is that something that needs to be addressed or more a kayaba thing? Clickers make no difference even fully out, also dropped 40ml of oil.. zero change in travel used. Not happy with forks can never find Goldilocks setting.. maybe spring rate to high?
That is too much left on the table. Could be springs.
Can I ask if your seat is the soft model. And how is it for comfort ? I got a Enduro engineering seat soft it's pretty good. But might want to try the seat you have as well. Is it still good after 3 hours or more of riding ?
It is the soft one. I love it but it’s not super comfy. I don’t sit on it much.
I picked up the Soft EE seat and wow it if amazing. Has helped my sitting ars feel so connected to the bike now without killing my back.
What would you adjust if the rear what’s to slid out went turning , it does it on flat and in shallow ruts too. I tried faster rebound and more compression helped some but still what’s to slid out . I did not do anything with the hi speed set at 1 1/2 out ?
Try going to 1 out on HS
And 2013 kx450f I don't know anything about air forks 😂
Hey thanks just a good plain old a b c's 1,2,3 explanation in plain simple language!! Other vids try and get too technical sometimes.
Thanks
Dust is the best indicator
Good info... saved.
Awesome.
My gas gas 125 says " turn clockwise to increase damping. Turn counter clockwise to reduce. Is this video for me?? Confused
Yes. Righty tighty slows it down and vice versa
May want to include you cannot set it and forget it, check sag now and again during the season.
Good point
Local suspension shop says they can machine my existing valves and make it better. Anyone has such experience and can you tell me if this kind of mod can work?
It can but that’s an old school thing. Modern pistons are good.
Thanks man !
You bet
Isnt it opposite ?
If you have no static sag but 100mm of race the spring is too stiff, and vice versa on 50-60mm static and 100mm race
No. I know it seems that way. But to have correct rider sag and no static it means you had to turn the preload too much and therefore the spring is to soft
What would happen if you were to make a piston out of tungsten
No idea. Does it not expand?
Great information!
Glad you liked it
@@highlandcycles I appreciate all the tech videos. Keep up the good everything!
I enjoy your videos and god bless you for your time and i have a couple questions i hope you could help me out till i raise enough funds to have my stuff revalved im a big dude 270 ride a 2017 ktm 300xc with air forks set to racetech psi recommend psi and rear spring to..any recommendations for clicker settings until i can have it revalved to help get me riding my dirtbike more!!mostly 3rd gear rocky rooty norcal woods riding with some technical slow jazz mixed in
I would start with compression at 10 out and rebound at 5 out and see how that is. Front and rear the same. Oh and high speed 1 out.
@@highlandcycles thank you man I appreciate you taking time to help me out and I just wanted to say I really enjoy your gospel on 2 wheels videos and it's sure funny how certain things come into life when your trying to become a better Christian! thank you again and God bless
Great video!!!
Thanks bub
Suspension always confuses me. I’ve always adjusted by riding the same loop, and making small adjustments.
My manual has numbers listed for “soft “normal” and “sport” settings. I have KYB front and rear suspension. To hit the numbers they have listed, I would go clockwise till the clicker stops and go counter clockwise to count for those numbers? Is that correct? 😅
Yes
Thank you 🤙
You bet
Thanks
Great info!🤘
Sweet
we all are dealing with sophisticated hydraulic-systems, aka fork and shock. everybody tries to set his (once set') hydraulics to variable circumstances. it's always a compromise...
perhaps one day we will have regulated, sensitive hydraulics on our offroad-bikes, to be able to ride motocross, enduro and rally with the same hydraulics...
Thank you
Glad to help
I wish I could put all this into practice. Lol.
Awesome! Thanks! 🇵🇹
Hey mate going mad here haha
Got a 06 525 I can't seem to find the com adjuster on the bottom of the forks can see the + and - but nowhere to adjust am I blind or retarted where is it 😊😂
Should be a flat blade in the middle
Stupid me didn't realise the cap comes off 🤣 been getting more serious about enduro riding and need the front to stop washing out as much, never touched suspension before
Thanks mate muchly appreciated
@@OversizedEnduroGuy 🤣😂
So I had someone set up my kx 450f 2013 but now it seems every jump I hit my bike just kicks the back out to the left everytime now driving me crazy what should I do for that high speed?
I got a kx450 2013 as well, on the shock I run 100mm sag, 1 3/4 turns out on hi speed, 10 clicks out low speed, rebound 14 clicks out. Forks 38psi, compression 11 clicks out rebound 19 clicks out.
I got a kx450 2013 as well, on the shock I run 100mm sag, 1 3/4 turns out on hi speed, 10 clicks out low speed, rebound 14 clicks out. Forks 38psi, compression 11 clicks out rebound 19 clicks out.
Good stuff now crack a beer
Most not all WP shocks only have three turns of high-speed compression
I go by dust marks lol
🤪🤣 Must’ve been bad weather or you would’ve been riding👍🔥🤣😇🤔click click 🤨
Totally. It was muddy
What if you are only 135 lbs ...
You need lighter springs