So happy to have stumbled across your video, a straightforward and very clear explanation, thank you. Especially as I shall be getting a Lane regulator for my Empire XS
Fkng Outstanding! This is valuable information that the airgun companies don't want us to know because they want us to buy a whole new gun, THANK YOU!😂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Brilliantly Explained thanks a lot 👍 I was wondering about the screw position and now understand how to adjust it, the PR900 GEN2 has a slot in it so all I have to do is unscrew the pressure gauge and adjust it with a long screwdriver, then chrono it once filled up 👏
Hi there. Sorry for the late reply. The Gen 2 PR900 is an awesome piece of kit !! Gen 1 was already great value, but had some minor fault. The Gen 2 is super value for money !!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Hya the only thing I need is information on how to setup these Snowpeak regulators, how many turns in/out equals what pressure, and how to configure the Belleville washer stack, I have read normal stacks are ()()()() low pressure and (())(())(()) high pressure, Snowpeak do something else (()((()))()) 👍
Hi Jim. Ok, if you recall this "internal" regulator has to be removed and the adjustment done once the regulator is out of the gun. In this case the gap between the adjustment screw and the knife edge is increased or decreased by screwing the adjustment screw in or out. In a more expensive (and complex) rifle this adjustment is done from outside. The regulator still works on same principal, but either the adjustment screw (or spring tention on the piston with knife-edge) can be adjusted from outside the rifle. Obviously the "adjustment system" also needs to be sealed off by o-rings to not allow air from escaping. I just fitted a Lane regulator to my SPA PR900W (video available by next week). The SPA non regulated rifle has a total of 9 o-rings. My FX Impact MK 1 has more than 30 o-rings in it. This because of the more efficient and complex rifle design and to allow hammer and regulator adjustment from outside the rifle. Then obviously you also need 2 pressure gauges as you need to know what the regulator's pressure has been set to , and what the remaining pressure is inside the rifle. this all ads to complexity and price.......... In the case of the FX MK1 the adjuster screw is accessible with an Allan-key just behind the trigger . Just look at how many o-ring in a FX impact: spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/product/fx-impact-o-ring-seal-kit/ and here is a picture of where it is adjusted...: www.airgundepot.com/fx-impact.html#gallery-27 Hope it is clear now. Many regards and happy hunting. JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Right, I see that now! Thank you so much for the explanation - probably the best response I ever received on a YT video :) Looking forward to the next videos!
Hi there. It is an amazing sport / hobby to pursue !! One does not need the top end expensive rifles to enjoy this game !! PCP's are inherently accurate !! Happy Hunting !!
in the civil war Whitworth rifles under black powder charges that were just a tiny bit above air pressure marked hits at 2000 yards ! This is the tech needed to advance the air PCP rifle market and rival the blackpowder world .
This is seriously helpful. Thanks a lot. I just received my kral puncher breaker with zero bar, discharged and I cannot charge it up by simple hand pump. Looks like the pump is not making enough pressure to push the piston. the air is going thru the barrel.
Hi there !! Did you buy it new or from a friend ? It should not be at Zero Bar ! If you, or someone else, cocked the kral and fired it with no pressure then it can brake the valve on the inside of the valve assembly. (My friend,s kral broke the valve. see the photo of the valve) Then you have to open the valve assembly and replace the part. If your air is coming out the barrel then maybe the valve broke... I did a search and found this guy doing a valve replacement. Very interesting that we have almost the same name for our UA-cam channels : ua-cam.com/video/ezbAV7e-4-c/v-deo.html
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thank you so much for your reply. I bought a new one. I studied a manual before I did anything and there are no info regards that the gun should be precharged by the manufacturer. I guess it's just a well-known standard that I did not know about. Thank you al Lot!!!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Ok, so, unfortunately, I couldn't find the reason. The seller cannot re-send the new gun, so I decided to buy something more-trusted. But! I read on some polish forums that not every airgun may be filled by the hand-pomp just because there is not enough pressure punch on the valve (even if you're pumping 120 or 160 times). So I closed the out and pumped the pomp up to 300 bars. Then I opened the out suddenly so the highest pressure could hit the gun and... nothing, same story. The air is going out, thru the barrel. And btw, I do have not such a cheap pump. This device is well built, and I trusted it. I hope it's going to pump my new toy.
What purpose does the small hole in the body of the reg assembly serve? Talking about the hole at the 12 o’clock position that runs from the cavity where the piston is located and feeds air into the space between the 2 large o rings on the outside of the regulator. Does this form a pressure check on the inside of the orings to stabilize or lock reg in place while under pressure?
Hi there "@motorgearhead". Very good question that I forgot to address in this video. You are close, but hopefully my eplanation will clarify. Before I just "paste" the reply I have had to send to several other people let me just add to your understanding: Yes, air must "bleed/breath" from there, but not to pressurise those other O-rings. On several other Rifles on must actually drill a small hole in the rifle's tank/cylinder. The air then can go out that "breath-hole" and escape into the atmosphere... The small hole must off course be anywhere "between" those two O-rings. The reason I forgot was because the Kral does not need to be drilled. You just do not return one O-ring on the Kral's valve assembly and the air escapes from there... ( Have a look at this video where I fit the reg to my Kral. There I explain that the O-ring must not be replaced .... Watch from about 16 min... ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html ) Ok, here is a reply I sent others: This is just copied from a previous person that asked me the same question.... Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...: Hi there . Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
Hi there Baza. You are correct and it should have been covered... This is just copied from a presvious person that asked me the same question.... Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...: Hi there . Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
Where does the air go coming out of the breathe hole? Do you need to drill a hole throught the cylinder wall or is the volume between the o-rings big enough?
Hi Johan. Good question and not adequately explained in the video :-( It depends on you your rifle. Some, like my Gamo, it needs a hole, but on my Kral Punchers no hole is needed. The air bleeds out the threads on the Puncher's reservoir. (The puncher's regulator looks slightly different from the sample I used in the video). This additional hole is literally the smallest hole you can drill (about 1mm) and just to allow "possible" air that might have leaked into the section where your spring is. If this air could not get out, then over time the pressure might increase in the section where your spring is located. This would effectively "increase" the force required to seal the regulator and will progressively change the regulated pressure..... If your rifle does require a hole then it will be very clearly indicated in the instructions of your regulator (I refer to Robert Lane's Regulators) where this hole needs to be drilled, and the drill is supplied. Not a nice feeling drilling into your cylinder, but 99.999% you would never remove the regulator, and they last forever .(Obviously o-rings go over time, but so do all the o-rings on your rifle) I would not use a hand drill for this, but a drill press set at correct speed for the size of the drill. Hope this helps.... Regards JB
one superb, excellent explanation, however, you missed a vital part of the tutorial, that is free to air breath hole within the regulator chamber and the average 1mm breath hole that has to be drilled in the cylinder tube, which needs to be between the large ceiling o-rings on the regulator, that cylinder drilled hole in the cylinder to be located between the two o-rings, if no hole in the cylinder exists, the eventual failure of the regulator will eventually come to fruition.
Yes, I should have mentioned, but actualy on the kral regulator it does not get the hole.... that was why forgot to mention. Look at tutorial of fitting a regulator to kral puncher bullpup. The reg only has one sealing oring then leaks the breathe hole air via the threads on the cylinder.....
Wow, this is the best way to explained it, thanks man. Btw if i would like to search this after market regulator, what the key word should it be to find it on amazon? I did search it but only show me random regulator.
Hi there Firza. Trust you are well. I am using "Lane" Regulators. They are available from e-bay in the UK. It is free international shipping and about 70 Uk Pounds each... I just searched ebay.com (US site) and entered "Lane Regulator" .... www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Lane+regulator&_sacat=0 Hope this helps. Happy hunting/shooting !!
@@FirzasWorkshop Oooops !! I just saw this on Robert Lane's Facebook page: Dear Friends & Customers - I will be closing down sometime between Fri 26th-Tue 30th June. I was informed that I am not very well back in February and was instructed I needed sometime away for rest & treatment. I had therefore planned to close at the end of March but as 'Lockdown' came in, all plans for both rest and treatment went out the window. However I think time has now come, so I will be shut for a few weeks or even maybe months, hopefully maybe the odd open day or two here and there when at home. All orders placed up to closure will be processed & shipped 100% as normal. So I am very sorry but I wont be replying to e-mail and tel. So hopefully see you later in the season :-) Robert Lane So if you want one you need to order before 26th !! facebook.com/AirgunRegulators/
Great video, can you please share a link to the page were you bought the regulator I have the same Krall puncher breaker and I'm interested into get one
Hi there. I have used only the Lane regulators, but there might be some supply issues as Robert Lane has taken some time off. He is struggling with long-term illness. However depending on your rifle there might be several shops that have stock. Apart From Lane Regulators : laneregulators.com/ The other big name is Huma : www.huma-air.com/ I believe both have good products , but as i have 2 rifles with Lane, and they work really well, ill just stick to what i know. Be safe and happy hunting/shooting Regards JB
Excellent well presented explanation. The only other explanation I need is why does noone make a regulated bigbore? I can buy .45 or .50 cal rifle that gives me 2 "full power" shots at say 700fpe., with a "follow up" shot or two. Why can't I get a .357 cal with 6- 8 regulated shots at say 250-275fpe?
Hi there Roger. I am not up to speed with the "big bore" air rifles and personally think that they are a waste..... Why not just buy a proper rifle... It would be a fraction of the price and 10 x more powerful. Also the big bores would require a license just like a firearm in most countries, so just get a rifle...
If possible to explain to me if I have a rifle which the regulater is set on 110bar, and the velocity using 18.33 gr is 970 ft/sec, but the grouping in not that good, what would be the solution?
Hi there. Most PCPs are inherently accurate and if your speed is constant, then you should be able to get "good" accuracy. I have found that the pellets make a "huge" difference !! I have 2 x PR900 rifles in .177 caliber. The one likes 10gr or heavier and the other one wants 7gr pellets. My gamo coyote , at 30 meters, shoots about a 2" grouping with the gamo pellets that came with it. If I change to JSB 18.13gr pellets, then it is half inch groups !!! Personally I think the "overall" best .22 pellet is the JSB 18.13 grain pellets. almost all my PCPs love them..... So, before you try adjusting anything.... Try JSB 18.13gr and some other pellets. Also make sure your barrel is clean !!! Krall PCPs initially shoot crap !! then after a VERY GOOD barrel clean shoots great...... My FX also needs a good clean after about 200-300 shots as it starts to shoot random.... Hope this helps !!! Regards JB
Hi there. My apologies, and this is just copied from a presvious person that asked me the same question.... Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...: Hi there . Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure...... If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you....
My compliments on your video and explanation, very well done. BTW, do you know the actual tension of the spring itself? I'd like to make my own regulator as I have a specific tube diameter where it needs to go. Also, is the internal piston made of Brass? Just looking at the Reg bleed hole, should there be a corresponding hole in the air tube?
Hi there. Yes you are correct !! There should be a corresponding hole in the tube. I forgot to mention this. However on this kral the air escape via the cylinder threads. You do not replace the original oring on the cylinder to allow this to happen. However on many other rifles you need to drill it if you fit a after market one. If it comes with a reg, then there will be a hole or path where the air can escape in the event of small leak. Regarding tension values: no idea... maybe write to Lane Regulators ?? Hope this helps. Regards JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Hello JB, perhaps you can help me with the dimensions of the spring. Would you tell me the Outside diameter, the Inside diameter and length of the spring as well as the diameter of the piston withing the valve body. I'm actually using the Chinese Bell washer type Reg's and I don't think they are consistent. I believe the spring reg would be a better system and being that make my own PCP's and the Reg would certainly be very specific to my application, I'd like to make my own. Very much appreciate if you could give me this info. Cheers.
@@redgum1340 Hi there. I unfortunately don't have this rifle anymore. Also the springs are differnt in almost all of them. I have fitted them to Gamo, Kral, Hatsan and more. Every time the spring was slightly different... To get this type of information I would write directly to Lane regulators and ask them... They "might" release this type of information....? Happy Hunting
Hi there. Unfortunately I have no experience on CO2 systems and thus cannot give you an educated answer. However you can look at the "bottle" regulators that Lane, and others make, that fit between the bottle (on rifles like the FX) and the rifle.... Maybe that could work.....??
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi! Thanks for the Quick answer. Yeah and I dont think you would get the regulator out as the end of the cylinder is a metal Wall. But an external is the go i guess.
I have a question for those with experience with air rifles. I realize that it is difficult, but if the person is interested and a good reader, he will answer me.. Now all PCP rifles contain an air regulator, and this regulator expels air from the cylinder and remains trapped between the regulator and the piston struck by the hammer.. My question is this air, how many bar and how many cc.. and does it The amount and pressure of the air I mentioned above will be greater in volume and strength than the air released from the spring-loaded air rifle?
I have another question, the working pressure chamber, when the trigger hits the chamber will release the pressured air but not the complete quantity! So how much remaining? And that is why the trigger can increase velocity and minimise it depending on on what gr you are using and what are the proper velocity for perfect grouping? Started to reach somewhere I think? Any help
Hi again. Ok, the "trigger" releases the hammer. The hammer hits the valve.... If the hammer hits the valve harder, it will release more air... many expensive rifles , Like FX, you can adjust the hammer spring to hit the valve harder or softer... This is something that the average person does not have to worry about. I have never adjusted or set any of my rifle's hammer spring tention, as I am happy with their performance as is... Regarding the pressure in the "chamber": Yes , you are right. Not all the air goes out, but also remember that as soon as the pressure starts to drop, more air starts to flow in from the tank, past the regulator into the chamber . I have no idea how far the pressure actually drops , but would "guess" that if your reg is set at 110bar, then it might drop to about 70 bar before it closes ?? this is only a guess ... Regarding the pellet weight: The lighter the pellet the faster it will shoot. You say you get 970fps. That is very fast for a 18gr pellet in a "normal" PCP... If the JSB 18.13gr does not group, try a slightly heavier one that shoots a bit slower.... ??
One more comments the lane videos was very helpful and confirmed all what I was thinking about, and there are one philipino or Thailand video explaining the spring washers in the regulator which is amazing video
Hello, it is installed in the same way for Mega, because the pressure gauge is under the tank, but for the breaker, it is at the top of the tank. Are they different?
Hi there. As far as i can remember the installation was the same. I have fitted them to both. Just remember the following : The one where the gauge is fitted to the valve assembly (bottom) will only indicate the pressure that the regulator is set at. So if set at 135 bar(like mine was) then it cannot indicate more than 135 bar. DO NOT OVER FILL when you refill..... Use the gauge from the compressor, not the rifle to indicate when you reach 200bar. The one where the gauge is at the end of the cylinder will still indicate as normal..... Hope this helps. Happy hunting
Ok, dragging away the adjustment screw from the piston gave more power but what about the pressure cylinder capacity? For example, if the cylinder capacity without adjusting the adjustment screw was 100%. After adjusting the adjustment screw meaning pulling away from its normal position to increase power then when you fill the cylinder with air, the capacity of the cylinder drops below 100%, Yes/No? If you try to fill the cylinder to 100% after adjusting the screw, wouldn't it explode, the cylinder?! Was I mistaken. If yes! Correct me. Thx
Hi there Benny. Ok, let me try to understand your question and hopefully give you a good answer. If we do not have a regulator, and we fill the cylinder to max (200 bar for kral) then everywhere inside it is 200 bar... Now we put the regulator inside and in my video the regulator is on the "Left". So, on the Right side of the regulator the pressure will be 200 bar if i fill to max, BUT the regulator will not allow any more pressure to come to the left than what you have set on the regulator. In my case the regulator is set at 135 bar. so on the right of the regulator is 200 bar and on the left side, where the valve assembly is the pressure is only 135 bar... Now we open the screw like you say : pulling away from its normal position to increase power. all that happens now is that the regulator will allow maybe 145 or 150 bar to be on the left side. If we fully open or remove the adjustment screw then the pressure will be 200 bar left and right side of the regulator. So the regulator cannot make more pressure than what you put inside, but only "regulate" how much is going into the valve assembly. VERY IMPORTANT !!!! : If your rifle's pressure gauge is "after" the regulator then you must be very careful. On the Bull-pup the pressure gauge is on the end ( right hand side on the picture in my video. ) and the regulator is left. On the Normal Puncher the pressure gauge is fixed on the valve assembly !! That means that even if you put 200 (or more) bar into the cylinder the gauge will only show you how much pressure is in the regulated part (on the left of the regulator as in my video) So if you fill a normal puncher breaker with regulator fitted, then you MUST use the gauge on your compressor to tell you when your reach 200 bar because the gauge on the rifle can only see the regulated pressure... Do NOT try to reach 200 looking at the gauge on the rifle... it cannot see how much is on the "other" side of the regulator.... Hope this helps. Happy hunting PS:135 is a good pressure for the reg. If you go higher then you just waist air....
yes; i agree with everyone of these comments. very very informative. best i have ever seen or heard. i have a couple question. i have an Altaros reg. and they say it does not use a breath hole- it vents through the threads where it screws back by the piston where there are 2 o-rings. they instruct the buyer to remove the 2 o-rings and that's where the breathing into the atmosphere happens. i seens lots of people install the Altaros reg. and have great success. what are your thoughts on that if you don't mind. also if my regulator is set at 130 bar and i fill my cynlinder to say 3000 psi which is what my hand pump is reading why is my manometer reading different. is the manometer going to read bar instead of presure. please get back to me if you can. keep up the great video's.
Hi there Robert. Yes, that is normal for some rifles not to need a breath hole drilled. It is the same for my Kral Puncher. It leaks from the thread on the valve assembly ..... Regarding the Pressure Gauge: It depends where the gauge is situated .... Example: On the Puncher the gauge is fixed in the valve assembly. You thus see the "Regulated Pressure" and NOT the cylinder pressure. I could not understand why the rifle did not want to fill past 135bar , no matter how hard I tried once the Regulator was in .... LUCKILY I only had a 232bar scuba cylinder to use.... Then the light-bulb in my head went on !! It CANNOT read more than that, because you fitted a regulator John !! So the gauge only sees the regulated side of the cylinder.... Now, my Kral Bull-pup has the gauge on the end of the cyclinder, away from the valve assembly and regulator. Thus I can still see my cylinder pressure when i fill it, but not the regulated section. I thus will never know the exact pressure of the regulator, but trust Lane regulators to have set it as requested. Warning: I have seen on more than one video where people say that once you fitted a Regulator you can "over fill" your rifle as you can no longer get "hammer-lock" and thus not a problem to over fill. If you are going to do this DO NOT fill more than 10% over the rated pressure.... I over fill to 220bar because I use a carbon tank to refill and the refill takes about 5-7 seconds to fill. The air thus heats up, and pressure increase because of temperature increase. Once the rifle cools down from a 220 bar fill, it settles just above 200 bar... But do not fill to 250 or 300, that is foolish. Even if your regulator is rated 300 (like mine) the rifle might not be safe at 300 bar. Back to the Pressure Gauge: On my PR900W I had to remove the pressure gauge and thus have no idea what the pressure is in my rifle. Only when I fill it can i see what the gauge reads from where i am filling it. Robert Lane sells a aftermarket Pressure Gauge that fits on the front of the PR900W so now I again have pressure indication on my rifle.... Hope this helps Happy Hunting JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi john; thanks for all the info. question: now that i installed the regulator in my Daystate huntsman regal my fps has dropped from 875 to 775. took the gun apart to screw in the hammer 2 complete turns to get more fps and it hasn't budge a bit. i would like to get it back to where it was which is 875 fps but i have no idea. can you help me out thanks
@@roberttheriot7612 Hi there Robert. That is quite normal.... watch from 9min50sec in this video. It explains it . My kral dropped from about 920 to 830. Many people think that the regulator will actually improve your fps/energy, but when you think about it, it is not possible. All it can do is "reduce" energy, but in return give you consistency. There are a few ways to now "maybe/possibly" increase your fsp: Let be start by saying that I am no expert, but have a sound understanding and just giving you some possibilities that are done on PCPs to increase speed. 1. Increase the hammer spring tention. It is easy to understand.... Valve gets hit harder, opens more, allows more air to pass and thus faster pellet.... This you have done and if you say that it has not had any effect, I would return it to original setting. 2. Increase the size for the transfer-port. This in the Kral is a brass valve/port that can easily be drilled bigger. With the regulator I bought for the kral they supplied a drill that would open the hole about 0.3 -0.5mm larger diameter than standard. I do not know your rifles internals, but see if this is an option. I bought my sons a Kral NP05. It gets about 50fps more just by drilling the transfer port bigger and it is a relatively easy procedure. The same for FX barrels. Look at some of the development on the FX impact barrels . One could buy aftermarket attachments where the transfer port/hole, from where the air enters the barrel, were larger. Huma made it and now FX have it as standard... Basically see if you can open up the air passage from the valve to the pellet. Anywhere where you can reduce the restriction of airflow might help... 3. Inserting a plenum. This can increase the fps, but you might loose some shot count as you reduce overall volume in your cylinder by increasing the volume of the regulated section of the rifle. This will allow "more air" (still the same regulated pressure, but just more of it) of push the pellet for that fraction that the valve is open. Hope this helps. Regards JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi JB; if my regulator is set @ 125 bar give or take a few; what happens if i set it to say 140 bar. would that give it a little boost. could i start there before drilling and doing other stuff to it. or will that help at all thank you
@@roberttheriot7612 Yes, my mistake, that could be step 1. Prior to doing all the above. If it is a Lane regulator I think it is 5 bar / red line on the reg..... Let me know how it improved the fps....
Hi there. I have used only the Lane regulators, but there might be some supply issues as Robert Lane has taken some time off. He is struggling with long-term illness. However depending on your rifle there might be several shops that have stock. Apart From Lane Regulators : laneregulators.com/ The other big name is Huma : www.huma-air.com/ I believe both have good products , but as i have 2 rifles with Lane, and they work really well, ill just stick to what i know. Be safe and happy hunting/shooting Regards JB
Sir,i losened the pressure adjuster screw to increase the reg pressure.But i didnt make any change on the hammer spring.i came to know from the chrony test that after i increase the reg pressure the velocity drops than before .what happened here..any help please
Hi there Hmangaihi. How much did you loosen the Reg ??? How many dots did you turn anti- clockwise on the Reg....?? If you go more than 3 dots then your regulator pressure will be about 150 bar (if you ordered a 135 bar standard setting) . Now at 150 + and with the extra plastic spacer inside the valve assembly (to increase valve tension) it might be too Much pressure on the valve and preventing the valve from opening enough .... Always remember that on a Kral, or other "Basic" PCP's you do not put a regulator get more speed... You put a regulator to get constant velocity with each shot..... My kral without regulator start to shoot at about 900FPS with 200 bar in tank, but with the regulator I am at 830 FPS, but VERY accurate !! Only the much more expensive FX impact type rifles you play with regulator, and hammer tension to increase velocity.... Hope this helps. Regards JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Thank you so much sir, i'm using Diana outlaw .177 Version.I'm turning the reg anticlockwise for four dots.Now i get to know the idea behind it.Thank you so much
How do you know you have the regulator set to 135 ? Do you just have to go by the marks on the regulator or can you see it on guns gauge ? Is 135 going to be what the gauge on the gun reads? How do you know what the pressure is inside the cylinder as your filling it up ? What is going on with the vent hole ? You didn't say anything about it or why its there? Why are people cutting the threads in the valve assembly and notching the cylinder to create a breather hole ? Is that just something some regulators like the huma have to have ? Do you have to make some type of breather hole once you install the regulator you showing ? Can you explain why some regulators have to have a vent hole that leads to the outside ?
Hi Steve. Ok, 1st question: You order it "pre-set" to what you want. Once you get it , then , if you want, you can adjust using the side index as indicated in my video. No 2: The reading on your pressure gauge depend on where it is situated. On my Bull-pup, the gauge is on the back of the cylinder from where you fill it. What you see there is the "pressure before it goes to the regulator". On the Puncher Breaker (which is essentially the same gun...), the gauge is fitted to the valve assembly. You thus see the "regulated" pressure. You must beware of this as you need to use the pressure gauge of the devise that you fill the rifles with to determine how much pressure is in the cylinder. Your gauge on the Puncher Breaker will NOT tell you how much pressure is in the tank. Only the regulated pressure. No 3 ; Breathe hole If for some reason any pressure should leak (small amounts over time) into the regulator housing/unit then the balance (desiogn specs) no longer apply. The regulator is designed to overcome the spring pressure and close at certain value. Once air leaks into the regulator, that additional pressure will change the value at which the regulator opens and closes. It might NEVER leak into the regulator, but if it does it will change .... So by adding a hole you ensure the same atmospheric pressure every time. That air that leaks from the breath hole needs to escape somewhere. It you look at the Kral then you can see that air is blocked on both sides of the regulator. But air can actualy move from the breath hole, past the sides of the valve assembly, through the threads of the valve assembly, but you MUST NOT put grease on the threads and also NOT return the original O-ring. Then it will breathe. Some rifles, like my Gamo Coyote one must drill a "breathe hole" in your cylinder opposite the hole in the regulator.... I will make a video on this in May 2021 when I am finally back home.... Hope this is understood.
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Thanks I'll be looking for that video . I'm new to pcps and my hatsam hydra doesn't have a regulator in it and I like the idea of having less power with more shots at the same power . My Hatsan has the gauge that looks likes its on the valve assembly. So when I add the regulator my gauge will read the regulated pressure right and not whats on the other side right if I'm understand what you typed . This makes since and that was why I ask . I watched this video at least 5 0times now trying to get every thing figured out and if you said something about this I keep missing it . I can just see people like me not knowing anything about this installing a regulator and keep pumping the gun up and watching the gauge on the other side of the regulator only going to 135 and possibly blowing up the tank . If that's not in this video you should try to add that to it . It might save someone from getting hurt . This is one reason I like to find out exactly how something works before I do anything . I'm still not getting the breather hole . Are you saying a hole should always be added in the area between the 2 seals on the opposite side of the regulators hole even on the one in your video ? How do you know when air is getting into the area between the 2 seals ? What happens ? Sorry if my questions are stupid this is all new to me .
@@Sertao2013 Hi Steve and Happy new year. Ok, I must confess that there is some technical flows in the "regulator I used." The one that fits into the Kral does not actualy have 2 outer o-rings (as the one in the photo). It only has 1. The breath-hole is on the valve assembly side of that single o-ring. As the pressure on the outside the valve assembly is "zero" or at least equal to atmosphere pressure. Inside the valve assembly it is the regulated pressure and on the other side of the regulator (past that single o-ring) the pressure is equal to the cylinder pressure.... Thus if there was any small amount of air that MIGHT (not will, just maybe) leak past the o-ring that seals the piston stem from the section where the spring is located, then the following will happen. There will be a pressure build up in the that section and this pressure will be added to the spring tension. For the regulator to now seal, the pressure on the piston head needs to overcome the spring tension AND additional pressure that leaked into that section. It would thus progressively increase the regulated pressure without you knowing it. That regulator i used in my video is typically one where you would need to drill the hole in the rifle's cylinder. The hole would have to be between the two outer o-rings to allow air to escape out. The Kral regulator only has 1 o-ring and then the air escapes past the threads of the valve assembly.... This is what the kral's regulator looks like. When you look at this you will see the single o-ring on the outside and also the o-ring that the de-pinger cap seals on. the air thus cannot get to the outside of the valve assembly. You will also see the breath hole from where the air can breathe and then leak out the threads. www.ebay.com/itm/KRAL-Puncher-PCP-Regulator-MK9-Lancet-by-Lane-Regulator-Made-in-the-UK-/123896263165 Now also have a look at my video to install the regulator and hopefully all will make sense then. (Ps, i used the same picture on the intro, but give detailed explanation later in the video and it shows the actual regulator very clearly....) ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html Ps: You were the 1st one to recognize this "error" in my video.....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Happy New year to you also . I'm still trying to digest all this info from your video and your reply 's and of now I don't know what I recognized a error lol . I just didn't see in the video about what the gauge would show when its below the regulator vs being on the other side or fill side gauge . But I think You answered that and I understand that now thanks to you. I;ll watch the attached videos you just gave me and try learn more about the because I really want to do it but I want to know everything about it first including the breathing hole thing and exactly how that works and why . I will have to read what you wrote here a few more hundred time for sure . I wish I know what error I recognized lol . Thanks for your replys I hope other people with my same questions will read your reply and it might help them also . After I watch your other video about the breather holes with one o-ring if I don't see what I'm looking for I might have to bother you again . Thanks again for your help .
@@Sertao2013 Hi again. The other video is not about the breathe hole, it is about installing the regulator, but seeing all the components, might just ignite the spark... What you noticed was that the air could not actualy escape from the regulator's breath hole. As it was in my video.... The photo of the regulator i used had 2 two o-rings with the hole between them..... Does not make sense, but in a rifle where that regulator is used, you would have to drill a hole in the rifle cylinder. hope that soon everything will make sense. Regards JB
Hi there Laurens. Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video. If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings inside the regulator then high pressure air could get past the regulator and the piston. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the spring to increase. If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head. Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much. By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles. The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly . Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere. If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle. I hope this was clear for you.... ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thanks allot! One more question. If i need 110bar reg pressure, is it better to go for a low pressure reg (60-130 bar) or high pressure (110-160 bar)? I would think the low pressure because when choosing the high pressure the bellevil springs me be stronger then the pressure. Hope you can assist!
Hi Ansebbian. Yes, but currently living abroad in the UAE. I have been here 14 years and will finally return in April. My channel will be in full swing by mid May !!! Seriously looking forward to being home !!!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Awesome I thought I recognized the accent and also trust a South African to look at things and improve on it.."n Boer maak n plan" right...well everything of the best for you Mate!
Hi there . Yes I cannot agree more. !!! Please stay tuned to my channel. This was why I started the channel, but my "life-planning" is running about 2 years behind. By April next year my channel should be fully up and running. Then My focus will be to "show" that we DO NOT need those super expensive rifles. All the major UA-cam guys are shooting guns that less than 5% of the viewers can afford. My Kral cost 70% cheaper than my FX and up to 50m their grouping look the same. The scopes i use cost 15-20% of the new Nexus from element optics and is SPOT ON !! I hope that my channel will show to new , and old, air-gunners that we can actually all enjoy this sport without breaking the bank..... Already did one video on scope mountings as these are a super rip-off in general and perform and very "basic" task. However the "pros" tell us that one reason they shoot well is because they are using "those top quality" mounts.....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 I just cannot trust my scope to cheap mounts for hunting . I have had aluminum mounts fail me in the field in the past and it cost me a 150 class whitetail. Remember good scope mounts are only for big game hunting so you point is valid unless you are using big bore stuff for large game . If you are please use high quality scope mounts . We spend to much time in afield and to much money to get to that trophy deer,elk or bear we worked all season to get in front of us to have a scope mount thread strip and throw off our shot . REmember scope mounts are meant to be strong enough your rifle can roll down a hill and still hold 0 . Recoil and shock from the rifle is basically something even the cheapest mounts can handle but it is the 1 time out of 100,000 moment that good scope mounts are built for . I am currently building my own PCP rifle whitworth confederate rifle style . . I am experimenting with a technology that in the civil war could produce 2000 kill shots with powder charges 1/5 the size of a normal load of the era . So I believe this style of non rifling and twisted bullet that creates the bullet spin will translate well to the PCP rifle and may help get black powder performance in PCP big bore rifles . They used 451 caliber Whitworth bullets back then while I am working on a 7.62 and .223 calibers with the Whitworth bullet in my rifle prototypes . I have completed the 223 version prototype and am currently troubleshooting the .308 now . The .223 was shooting 1010 feet per second with a 55 grain bullet before the regulator crapped on it . I am designing a new regulator system now for the .308 and if it works I will use it on the final versions of these rifles . When the .223 version was finished I was hitting 1 moa at 175 yards through 35 shots . Instead of using the hex Whitworth bullet I found a company who makes a proprietary .223 bullet for a non rifled AR 15 . These bullets look just like the nerf footballs with the wing tails on the rear and they work unbelievable in the whitworth hex barrel . Finding a .308 ammo like it has been the biggest hold up in its development but I have 22 molds for different lead castings to test to find the best possible bullet to shoot from it . When I am done I can send you one to test on your channel if you are into testing something wild and different . I have built 12 or more different PCP air rifles over the past 5 years so when I see FX or any air rifle company charge 1500 to 2000 dollars for the rifles they sell it pisses me off . I know exactly how much it cost for one guy in a shop to build a high end PCP. So these factory PCps who can build them even cheaper than I can really pisses me off ! They are making about 99 cents on every dollar ! These PCP air rifles have no reason to cost what they do ! Even the very best PCP rifle on the market only cost about 85 dollars to produce .
@@jesusoftheapes 1 moa at 175 yards through 35 shots !! That is NOT TO SHABBY !! Yes, the PCP world has exploded and sadly the manufactures are in on it. Guys trying to continuously stretch the range... ?? Why... If I want to go past 75 yards, I use my rim-fire.... . past that the 30.06 and past that the 6.5 creedmoor. A Pellet is a pellet.... Keep to what it "should" be used for. Yes, I have seen them take pigeons at 200 yards and last week a Squirrel at 563 yards (yes 5-6-3 !!) , but they only show the "kill" shots. How many animals are wounded to eventually get that 1 shot on film. Regarding the scope mountings: If I drop my rifle, as in "drop" it good. I will do a full and comprehensive check of every components and will stop the hunt till I have shot at least a 5 shot group from a bench to what i know my rifle did before the the drop. Only then continue the hunt. In my Travel kit on hunts (not in my back-pack, but in camp) I have spare of everything if the hunt is an expensive or out of town hunt..... I will use better mounts on rifles with re-coil, but for what we use, or should be using, our PCP's, go for cheap without even a drop of worry.... Saw a guy this week buying mounts for over 120 $ to put on his PCP.... For what ?? Will be in touch once I am back home and my channel in full swing.... I cannot wait !!
I suppose the cost really depends on where you live. Where I live, air rifles do not require a license to buy. So there's no annual recurring cost that comes with obtaining and holding a license. Pellets and slugs are an order of magnitude cheaper than regular ammunition, as in good quality .22LR costs 20 euro for a box of 50, good quality slugs for my .177 PCP cost 15 euro for a box of 500. So for me the difference in cost for a decent PCP might be in the high hundreds of euros, where a good .22LR could be had for only a few hundred. The on-going cost of ammunition and licencing quickly turns that picture around. I can go to the range and put 200 pellets down range every week and all it costs me is a couple euro in lead. The up-front cost for air rifles may be higher, especially for PCP there's quite a financial barrier to entry, but once you get over that, it's much cheaper from there. For me personally I wanted to start in a new sport where my RA isn't a big factor. So I found a range club that has a 25m indoor bench rest competition. Went there to have a look around get a feel for the atmosphere and the people and joined. But I wasn't convinced it was for me, so spending upwards of 1000 euro on a rifle and all the stuff for PCP wasn't going to happen. Instead I got a 70 euro multi pump rifle in .177. I put on a 60 euro 3-9x40 scope with the included mounts. Got a 40 euro bi-pod that clamps on the barrel. One of those bubble levels that goes on the dovetail rail. Including a decent bag, a cleaning rod and all that jazz, I spent less than 300 on the entire setup. There were a few annoying people at the range the first time joking about how I had dressed up a toy gun, and how I should have at least spent 400 on a springer or even 1000 on a PCP. After shooting 5 5-shot sub-centimetre groups at 25m, the jokes stopped. In my first year of competition that cheap multipump rifle beat every springer at the range. Though after a few months the fact that it had an annoying barrel twist rate did make me buy a walther lothar barrel blank, which I had machined to fit in place of the "foil" barrel. The added barrel length and slower twist rate made for faster more stable pellets. Best I ever did with that multipump was a 6mm 5-shot group at 25m. The thing is once I knew this was for me, spending the almost 900 euro to get my .177 Walther Reign to where it is today was much less of an obstacle. But that rifle is still very much an indoor bench rest diva. It doesn't get jostled like a hunting rifle. The closest to hunting that rifle does is a spot of pest control in my vegetable garden. So good enough scope mounts are good enough, same goes for the scope itself. Hunting is obviously a different matter and to be fair it is ridiculously pricy to get into PCP hunting as the up-front cost just goes up and up and up, and you might never burn through enough ammo to ever claw back the difference compared to an AR15 platform. Also the cost of slugs goes up rapidly with calibre, which makes the price difference with regular ammo much smaller. A box of .357 slugs for my 100m air rifle costs 20 euro for 100, which is still less than half the cost per shot compared to .22LR, but there is more than couple hundred euro in difference between a modified Benjamin Bulldog and a decent .22LR. At barely 30ct per shot difference, it's going to take a long time to justify the probably 1200+ euro price difference for the rifles. And that's not including the other stuff you need for PCP hunting. Stuff I already had before I got into 100m outdoor. A friend of mine from Kentucky bought the same setup for hunting on his homestead kind of on impulse after seeing my Bulldog, and he regrets it to this day. Not because it's a bad rifle or because it's too light to hunt small deer and rabbits and the like for food. But because he will never recoup the difference in up front cost compared to a normal rifle.
Hi, very informative video and I thank you for the time you spent making it. I just bought a kral and it has a regulator installed so I opened it up like any good man would 😜there's not a spring in it but Bellville washers stacked like this(()) (()) (()) (()) now if I stacked them differently () () () () () () () () () will this increase my shots? Or power please speculate a bit 💪
Hi Aza. I have as yet not adjusted a reg using Belleville washers. As the rifle is not "suppose" to be opened (ha-ha) there probably aren't instructions on how to adjust. However: if you by either re-arranging, or reducing the amount of washers can reduce the pressure recuired to "close" the regulator, the shot count will increase and the velocity decrease..... The more pressure the washer push onto the piston the higher the pressure will be in the regulated section. Thus less shots, but more speed.... Just do not over do it as you might get hammer lock.... this is when the hammer can no longer open the valve... this is dangerous ! Hope this makes sense... Regards JB
That was great no pissing about, best regulator description on UA-cam so far good work guy's keep it up and Thank you
That was a great, no nonsense description... Thank you so much and please keep the videos coming !!
Absolutely brilliant explanation!
Such a simple apparatus to do a complex job. Absolutely genius. Very informative. Thank you so much.
Excellent job! Your video answered lots of questions I had. Thank you!
Couldn't ask for a better explanation.
Best explanation I could find. Thanks for the video!
So happy to have stumbled across your video, a straightforward and very clear explanation, thank you. Especially as I shall be getting a Lane regulator for my Empire XS
I now understand how the reg works. Thanks very much.
The best explanation i can find 👍🏻👍🏻
By far the best description I've come across. Many thanks for taking the time to put this video together to share your knowledge.
Wow what a good informative video, i consider myself now informed!! Good job!!
Yes, I do agree this was very informative. I hope you continue to come up with more interesting video.
Very well explained.
Thank you.
this is really informative
Great video. Clearly and fully explained. Congrats!
Thank you!
Fkng Outstanding! This is valuable information that the airgun companies don't want us to know because they want us to buy a whole new gun, THANK YOU!😂👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the compliment !!
Very helpful and so nicely explained, thank you!
Very well explained. You're an excellent teacher!
Thank you David. Your Comment is highly appreciated !!
Very informative!
Great video and easy to follow 👍
Great explanation, I was looking for for that kind of subject. Thank you.
Great explanation, thanks🙏🙏.
Great job well done
Thanks. Very clear. 👍
Well documented and explained.
Thank you !!
thank you , the best description. now I know
Well explained! Thank you! 🙏
Thank you very much, from France, for these clear explanations and for sharing.
Most welcome !!
Thank you for explaining. This is perfect for learning how it works.
You are most welcome !! Regards
JB
Excellent video😊👍
Great Great information bravo I needed that information to make my decision on a gun . So appreciated
Most welcome !!
Brilliantly Explained thanks a lot 👍 I was wondering about the screw position and now understand how to adjust it, the PR900 GEN2 has a slot in it so all I have to do is unscrew the pressure gauge and adjust it with a long screwdriver, then chrono it once filled up 👏
Hi there. Sorry for the late reply. The Gen 2 PR900 is an awesome piece of kit !! Gen 1 was already great value, but had some minor fault. The Gen 2 is super value for money !!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Hya the only thing I need is information on how to setup these Snowpeak regulators, how many turns in/out equals what pressure, and how to configure the Belleville washer stack, I have read normal stacks are ()()()() low pressure and (())(())(()) high pressure, Snowpeak do something else (()((()))()) 👍
Great explanation, learned a lot! Would you mind explaining how an externally adjustable regulator works?
Hi Jim.
Ok, if you recall this "internal" regulator has to be removed and the adjustment done once the regulator is out of the gun. In this case the gap between the adjustment screw and the knife edge is increased or decreased by screwing the adjustment screw in or out.
In a more expensive (and complex) rifle this adjustment is done from outside. The regulator still works on same principal, but either the adjustment screw (or spring tention on the piston with knife-edge) can be adjusted from outside the rifle.
Obviously the "adjustment system" also needs to be sealed off by o-rings to not allow air from escaping.
I just fitted a Lane regulator to my SPA PR900W (video available by next week). The SPA non regulated rifle has a total of 9 o-rings. My FX Impact MK 1 has more than 30 o-rings in it. This because of the more efficient and complex rifle design and to allow hammer and regulator adjustment from outside the rifle. Then obviously you also need 2 pressure gauges as you need to know what the regulator's pressure has been set to , and what the remaining pressure is inside the rifle. this all ads to complexity and price..........
In the case of the FX MK1 the adjuster screw is accessible with an Allan-key just behind the trigger .
Just look at how many o-ring in a FX impact:
spares.bagnallandkirkwood.co.uk/product/fx-impact-o-ring-seal-kit/
and here is a picture of where it is adjusted...:
www.airgundepot.com/fx-impact.html#gallery-27
Hope it is clear now.
Many regards and happy hunting.
JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Right, I see that now! Thank you so much for the explanation - probably the best response I ever received on a YT video :) Looking forward to the next videos!
Great experience
Thank really enjoyed it because I'm quite new to the PCP world first time🤔👍
Hi there. It is an amazing sport / hobby to pursue !! One does not need the top end expensive rifles to enjoy this game !!
PCP's are inherently accurate !!
Happy Hunting !!
Mantaf👍
You know very well what you are talking about. Great explanation. I guess you are Engineer. I am thinking why you have interest in air gun..
in the civil war Whitworth rifles under black powder charges that were just a tiny bit above air pressure marked hits at 2000 yards ! This is the tech needed to advance the air PCP rifle market and rival the blackpowder world .
I love sir
Danke
This is seriously helpful. Thanks a lot. I just received my kral puncher breaker with zero bar, discharged and I cannot charge it up by simple hand pump. Looks like the pump is not making enough pressure to push the piston. the air is going thru the barrel.
Hi there !!
Did you buy it new or from a friend ?
It should not be at Zero Bar !
If you, or someone else, cocked the kral and fired it with no pressure then it can brake the valve on the inside of the valve assembly. (My friend,s kral broke the valve. see the photo of the valve)
Then you have to open the valve assembly and replace the part.
If your air is coming out the barrel then maybe the valve broke...
I did a search and found this guy doing a valve replacement. Very interesting that we have almost the same name for our UA-cam channels :
ua-cam.com/video/ezbAV7e-4-c/v-deo.html
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thank you so much for your reply. I bought a new one. I studied a manual before I did anything and there are no info regards that the gun should be precharged by the manufacturer. I guess it's just a well-known standard that I did not know about. Thank you al
Lot!!!
@@enepeproductionz please let me know if you discover what was wrong...
Hope it is just something small.
Regards and enjoy your PCP.
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Sure!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994
Ok, so, unfortunately, I couldn't find the reason. The seller cannot re-send the new gun, so I decided to buy something more-trusted. But! I read on some polish forums that not every airgun may be filled by the hand-pomp just because there is not enough pressure punch on the valve (even if you're pumping 120 or 160 times). So I closed the out and pumped the pomp up to 300 bars. Then I opened the out suddenly so the highest pressure could hit the gun and... nothing, same story. The air is going out, thru the barrel.
And btw, I do have not such a cheap pump. This device is well built, and I trusted it. I hope it's going to pump my new toy.
Which regulator will work on a 200 karvan airboss phantom 5.5. The slim tank.
What purpose does the small hole in the body of the reg assembly serve? Talking about the hole at the 12 o’clock position that runs from the cavity where the piston is located and feeds air into the space between the 2 large o rings on the outside of the regulator. Does this form a pressure check on the inside of the orings to stabilize or lock reg in place while under pressure?
Hi there "@motorgearhead". Very good question that I forgot to address in this video. You are close, but hopefully my eplanation will clarify.
Before I just "paste" the reply I have had to send to several other people let me just add to your understanding: Yes, air must "bleed/breath" from there, but not to pressurise those other O-rings. On several other Rifles on must actually drill a small hole in the rifle's tank/cylinder. The air then can go out that "breath-hole" and escape into the atmosphere... The small hole must off course be anywhere "between" those two O-rings.
The reason I forgot was because the Kral does not need to be drilled. You just do not return one O-ring on the Kral's valve assembly and the air escapes from there... ( Have a look at this video where I fit the reg to my Kral. There I explain that the O-ring must not be replaced .... Watch from about 16 min... ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html )
Ok, here is a reply I sent others:
This is just copied from a previous person that asked me the same question....
Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...:
Hi there .
Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video.
If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure......
If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head.
Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much.
By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles.
The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly .
Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere.
If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle.
I hope this was clear for you....
Excellent video.. only thing missing was an explanation of the bleed vent
Hi there Baza. You are correct and it should have been covered...
This is just copied from a presvious person that asked me the same question....
Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...:
Hi there .
Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video.
If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure......
If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head.
Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much.
By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles.
The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly .
Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere.
If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle.
I hope this was clear for you....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 That's a fantastic explanation! Thank you for taking the time to explain it 👍
Where does the air go coming out of the breathe hole? Do you need to drill a hole throught the cylinder wall or is the volume between the o-rings big enough?
Hi Johan.
Good question and not adequately explained in the video :-(
It depends on you your rifle. Some, like my Gamo, it needs a hole, but on my Kral Punchers no hole is needed. The air bleeds out the threads on the Puncher's reservoir. (The puncher's regulator looks slightly different from the sample I used in the video).
This additional hole is literally the smallest hole you can drill (about 1mm) and just to allow "possible" air that might have leaked into the section where your spring is. If this air could not get out, then over time the pressure might increase in the section where your spring is located. This would effectively "increase" the force required to seal the regulator and will progressively change the regulated pressure.....
If your rifle does require a hole then it will be very clearly indicated in the instructions of your regulator (I refer to Robert Lane's Regulators) where this hole needs to be drilled, and the drill is supplied.
Not a nice feeling drilling into your cylinder, but 99.999% you would never remove the regulator, and they last forever .(Obviously o-rings go over time, but so do all the o-rings on your rifle) I would not use a hand drill for this, but a drill press set at correct speed for the size of the drill.
Hope this helps....
Regards JB
one superb, excellent explanation, however, you missed a vital part of the tutorial, that is free to air breath hole within the regulator chamber and the average 1mm breath hole that has to be drilled in the cylinder tube, which needs to be between the large ceiling o-rings on the regulator, that cylinder drilled hole in the cylinder to be located between the two o-rings,
if no hole in the cylinder exists, the eventual failure of the regulator will eventually come to fruition.
Yes, I should have mentioned, but actualy on the kral regulator it does not get the hole.... that was why forgot to mention.
Look at tutorial of fitting a regulator to kral puncher bullpup. The reg only has one sealing oring then leaks the breathe hole air via the threads on the cylinder.....
Very well explained mate most comprehensive even lane regulors video is not so concise.
Thanks, much appreciated. Happy Hunting !!
Wow, this is the best way to explained it, thanks man. Btw if i would like to search this after market regulator, what the key word should it be to find it on amazon? I did search it but only show me random regulator.
Hi there Firza. Trust you are well. I am using "Lane" Regulators. They are available from e-bay in the UK. It is free international shipping and about 70 Uk Pounds each...
I just searched ebay.com (US site) and entered "Lane Regulator" ....
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Lane+regulator&_sacat=0
Hope this helps.
Happy hunting/shooting !!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thankyou sir, you helped alot.
@@FirzasWorkshop Oooops !! I just saw this on Robert Lane's Facebook page:
Dear Friends & Customers - I will be closing down sometime between Fri 26th-Tue 30th June. I was informed that I am not very well back in February and was instructed I needed sometime away for rest & treatment. I had therefore planned to close at the end of March but as 'Lockdown' came in, all plans for both rest and treatment went out the window. However I think time has now come, so I will be shut for a few weeks or even maybe months, hopefully maybe the odd open day or two here and there when at home. All orders placed up to closure will be processed & shipped 100% as normal. So I am very sorry but I wont be replying to e-mail and tel. So hopefully see you later in the season :-) Robert Lane
So if you want one you need to order before 26th !!
facebook.com/AirgunRegulators/
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thanks sir for the information, I'll buy it before he closing.
Great video, can you please share a link to the page were you bought the regulator I have the same Krall puncher breaker and I'm interested into get one
Hi there.
I have used only the Lane regulators, but there might be some supply issues as Robert Lane has taken some time off. He is struggling with long-term illness. However depending on your rifle there might be several shops that have stock.
Apart From Lane Regulators : laneregulators.com/
The other big name is Huma : www.huma-air.com/
I believe both have good products , but as i have 2 rifles with Lane, and they work really well, ill just stick to what i know.
Be safe and happy hunting/shooting
Regards
JB
Excellent well presented explanation. The only other explanation I need is why does noone make a regulated bigbore? I can buy .45 or .50 cal rifle that gives me 2 "full power" shots at say 700fpe., with a "follow up" shot or two. Why can't I get a .357 cal with 6- 8 regulated shots at say 250-275fpe?
Hi there Roger.
I am not up to speed with the "big bore" air rifles and personally think that they are a waste..... Why not just buy a proper rifle... It would be a fraction of the price and 10 x more powerful.
Also the big bores would require a license just like a firearm in most countries, so just get a rifle...
If possible to explain to me if I have a rifle which the regulater is set on 110bar, and the velocity using 18.33 gr is 970 ft/sec, but the grouping in not that good, what would be the solution?
Hi there. Most PCPs are inherently accurate and if your speed is constant, then you should be able to get "good" accuracy.
I have found that the pellets make a "huge" difference !! I have 2 x PR900 rifles in .177 caliber. The one likes 10gr or heavier and the other one wants 7gr pellets.
My gamo coyote , at 30 meters, shoots about a 2" grouping with the gamo pellets that came with it.
If I change to JSB 18.13gr pellets, then it is half inch groups !!!
Personally I think the "overall" best .22 pellet is the JSB 18.13 grain pellets. almost all my PCPs love them.....
So, before you try adjusting anything.... Try JSB 18.13gr and some other pellets.
Also make sure your barrel is clean !!! Krall PCPs initially shoot crap !! then after a VERY GOOD barrel clean shoots great...... My FX also needs a good clean after about 200-300 shots as it starts to shoot random....
Hope this helps !!!
Regards
JB
Thanks for this. One question though, what’s the purpose of the breath hole at 2:40? Im pretty sure i had a leak from there.
Hi there. My apologies, and this is just copied from a presvious person that asked me the same question....
Read it slowly and try to follow as I do not have illustrations, but by looking at the schematic on the video whilst reading it might just make sense...:
Hi there .
Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video.
If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings INSIDE the regulator then high pressure air could get past where the regulator and the piston seal. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the piston (spring) to increase as we now have spring pressure AND extra air pressure......
If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head.
Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much.
By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles.
The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly .
Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere.
If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle.
I hope this was clear for you....
My compliments on your video and explanation, very well done. BTW, do you know the actual tension of the spring itself? I'd like to make my own regulator as I have a specific tube diameter where it needs to go. Also, is the internal piston made of Brass? Just looking at the Reg bleed hole, should there be a corresponding hole in the air tube?
Hi there.
Yes you are correct !! There should be a corresponding hole in the tube. I forgot to mention this. However on this kral the air escape via the cylinder threads. You do not replace the original oring on the cylinder to allow this to happen. However on many other rifles you need to drill it if you fit a after market one. If it comes with a reg, then there will be a hole or path where the air can escape in the event of small leak.
Regarding tension values: no idea... maybe write to Lane Regulators ??
Hope this helps.
Regards
JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Hello JB, perhaps you can help me with the dimensions of the spring. Would you tell me the Outside diameter, the Inside diameter and length of the spring as well as the diameter of the piston withing the valve body. I'm actually using the Chinese Bell washer type Reg's and I don't think they are consistent. I believe the spring reg would be a better system and being that make my own PCP's and the Reg would certainly be very specific to my application, I'd like to make my own. Very much appreciate if you could give me this info. Cheers.
@@redgum1340 Hi there. I unfortunately don't have this rifle anymore. Also the springs are differnt in almost all of them. I have fitted them to Gamo, Kral, Hatsan and more. Every time the spring was slightly different... To get this type of information I would write directly to Lane regulators and ask them... They "might" release this type of information....? Happy Hunting
Can you put a iternal regulator in a CO2 tube? I got an FWB C60 and want to convert it to a pcp powered system from a CO2 system.
Hi there. Unfortunately I have no experience on CO2 systems and thus cannot give you an educated answer. However you can look at the "bottle" regulators that Lane, and others make, that fit between the bottle (on rifles like the FX) and the rifle.... Maybe that could work.....??
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi! Thanks for the Quick answer. Yeah and I dont think you would get the regulator out as the end of the cylinder is a metal Wall. But an external is the go i guess.
I have a question for those with experience with air rifles. I realize that it is difficult, but if the person is interested and a good reader, he will answer me.. Now all PCP rifles contain an air regulator, and this regulator expels air from the cylinder and remains trapped between the regulator and the piston struck by the hammer.. My question is this air, how many bar and how many cc.. and does it The amount and pressure of the air I mentioned above will be greater in volume and strength than the air released from the spring-loaded air rifle?
I have another question, the working pressure chamber, when the trigger hits the chamber will release the pressured air but not the complete quantity! So how much remaining? And that is why the trigger can increase velocity and minimise it depending on on what gr you are using and what are the proper velocity for perfect grouping? Started to reach somewhere I think? Any help
Hi again. Ok, the "trigger" releases the hammer. The hammer hits the valve.... If the hammer hits the valve harder, it will release more air...
many expensive rifles , Like FX, you can adjust the hammer spring to hit the valve harder or softer...
This is something that the average person does not have to worry about. I have never adjusted or set any of my rifle's hammer spring tention, as I am happy with their performance as is...
Regarding the pressure in the "chamber":
Yes , you are right. Not all the air goes out, but also remember that as soon as the pressure starts to drop, more air starts to flow in from the tank, past the regulator into the chamber .
I have no idea how far the pressure actually drops , but would "guess" that if your reg is set at 110bar, then it might drop to about 70 bar before it closes ?? this is only a guess ...
Regarding the pellet weight: The lighter the pellet the faster it will shoot. You say you get 970fps. That is very fast for a 18gr pellet in a "normal" PCP... If the JSB 18.13gr does not group, try a slightly heavier one that shoots a bit slower.... ??
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 👍thank you for the first answer and 2nd, will do a test this week and check everything
One more comments the lane videos was very helpful and confirmed all what I was thinking about, and there are one philipino or Thailand video explaining the spring washers in the regulator which is amazing video
Hello, it is installed in the same way for Mega, because the pressure gauge is under the tank, but for the breaker, it is at the top of the tank. Are they different?
Hi there. As far as i can remember the installation was the same. I have fitted them to both. Just remember the following :
The one where the gauge is fitted to the valve assembly (bottom) will only indicate the pressure that the regulator is set at. So if set at 135 bar(like mine was) then it cannot indicate more than 135 bar. DO NOT OVER FILL when you refill..... Use the gauge from the compressor, not the rifle to indicate when you reach 200bar.
The one where the gauge is at the end of the cylinder will still indicate as normal.....
Hope this helps.
Happy hunting
Thank you, it was useful
Ok, dragging away the adjustment screw from the piston gave more power but what about the pressure cylinder capacity? For example, if the cylinder capacity without adjusting the adjustment screw was 100%. After adjusting the adjustment screw meaning pulling away from its normal position to increase power then when you fill the cylinder with air, the capacity of the cylinder drops below 100%, Yes/No? If you try to fill the cylinder to 100% after adjusting the screw, wouldn't it explode, the cylinder?! Was I mistaken. If yes! Correct me. Thx
Hi there Benny.
Ok, let me try to understand your question and hopefully give you a good answer.
If we do not have a regulator, and we fill the cylinder to max (200 bar for kral) then everywhere inside it is 200 bar...
Now we put the regulator inside and in my video the regulator is on the "Left". So, on the Right side of the regulator the pressure will be 200 bar if i fill to max, BUT the regulator will not allow any more pressure to come to the left than what you have set on the regulator.
In my case the regulator is set at 135 bar. so on the right of the regulator is 200 bar and on the left side, where the valve assembly is the pressure is only 135 bar...
Now we open the screw like you say : pulling away from its normal position to increase power.
all that happens now is that the regulator will allow maybe 145 or 150 bar to be on the left side. If we fully open or remove the adjustment screw then the pressure will be 200 bar left and right side of the regulator. So the regulator cannot make more pressure than what you put inside, but only "regulate" how much is going into the valve assembly.
VERY IMPORTANT !!!! :
If your rifle's pressure gauge is "after" the regulator then you must be very careful. On the Bull-pup the pressure gauge is on the end ( right hand side on the picture in my video. ) and the regulator is left.
On the Normal Puncher the pressure gauge is fixed on the valve assembly !! That means that even if you put 200 (or more) bar into the cylinder the gauge will only show you how much pressure is in the regulated part (on the left of the regulator as in my video)
So if you fill a normal puncher breaker with regulator fitted, then you MUST use the gauge on your compressor to tell you when your reach 200 bar because the gauge on the rifle can only see the regulated pressure...
Do NOT try to reach 200 looking at the gauge on the rifle... it cannot see how much is on the "other" side of the regulator....
Hope this helps.
Happy hunting
PS:135 is a good pressure for the reg. If you go higher then you just waist air....
yes; i agree with everyone of these comments. very very informative. best i have ever seen or heard. i have a couple question. i have an Altaros reg. and they say it does not use a breath hole- it vents through the threads where it screws back by the piston where there are 2 o-rings. they instruct the buyer to remove the 2 o-rings and that's where the breathing into the atmosphere happens. i seens lots of people install the Altaros reg. and have great success. what are your thoughts on that if you don't mind. also if my regulator is set at 130 bar and i fill my cynlinder to say 3000 psi which is what my hand pump is reading why is my manometer reading different. is the manometer going to read bar instead of presure. please get back to me if you can. keep up the great video's.
Hi there Robert.
Yes, that is normal for some rifles not to need a breath hole drilled. It is the same for my Kral Puncher. It leaks from the thread on the valve assembly .....
Regarding the Pressure Gauge:
It depends where the gauge is situated .... Example:
On the Puncher the gauge is fixed in the valve assembly. You thus see the "Regulated Pressure" and NOT the cylinder pressure. I could not understand why the rifle did not want to fill past 135bar , no matter how hard I tried once the Regulator was in .... LUCKILY I only had a 232bar scuba cylinder to use.... Then the light-bulb in my head went on !! It CANNOT read more than that, because you fitted a regulator John !! So the gauge only sees the regulated side of the cylinder....
Now, my Kral Bull-pup has the gauge on the end of the cyclinder, away from the valve assembly and regulator. Thus I can still see my cylinder pressure when i fill it, but not the regulated section. I thus will never know the exact pressure of the regulator, but trust Lane regulators to have set it as requested.
Warning: I have seen on more than one video where people say that once you fitted a Regulator you can "over fill" your rifle as you can no longer get "hammer-lock" and thus not a problem to over fill. If you are going to do this DO NOT fill more than 10% over the rated pressure.... I over fill to 220bar because I use a carbon tank to refill and the refill takes about 5-7 seconds to fill. The air thus heats up, and pressure increase because of temperature increase. Once the rifle cools down from a 220 bar fill, it settles just above 200 bar... But do not fill to 250 or 300, that is foolish. Even if your regulator is rated 300 (like mine) the rifle might not be safe at 300 bar.
Back to the Pressure Gauge: On my PR900W I had to remove the pressure gauge and thus have no idea what the pressure is in my rifle. Only when I fill it can i see what the gauge reads from where i am filling it. Robert Lane sells a aftermarket Pressure Gauge that fits on the front of the PR900W so now I again have pressure indication on my rifle....
Hope this helps
Happy Hunting
JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi john; thanks for all the info. question: now that i installed the regulator in my Daystate huntsman regal my fps has dropped from 875 to 775. took the gun apart to screw in the hammer 2 complete turns to get more fps and it hasn't budge a bit. i would like to get it back to where it was which is 875 fps but i have no idea. can you help me out thanks
@@roberttheriot7612 Hi there Robert.
That is quite normal.... watch from 9min50sec in this video. It explains it . My kral dropped from about 920 to 830.
Many people think that the regulator will actually improve your fps/energy, but when you think about it, it is not possible. All it can do is "reduce" energy, but in return give you consistency.
There are a few ways to now "maybe/possibly" increase your fsp:
Let be start by saying that I am no expert, but have a sound understanding and just giving you some possibilities that are done on PCPs to increase speed.
1. Increase the hammer spring tention. It is easy to understand.... Valve gets hit harder, opens more, allows more air to pass and thus faster pellet.... This you have done and if you say that it has not had any effect, I would return it to original setting.
2. Increase the size for the transfer-port. This in the Kral is a brass valve/port that can easily be drilled bigger. With the regulator I bought for the kral they supplied a drill that would open the hole about 0.3 -0.5mm larger diameter than standard. I do not know your rifles internals, but see if this is an option. I bought my sons a Kral NP05. It gets about 50fps more just by drilling the transfer port bigger and it is a relatively easy procedure.
The same for FX barrels.
Look at some of the development on the FX impact barrels . One could buy aftermarket attachments where the transfer port/hole, from where the air enters the barrel, were larger. Huma made it and now FX have it as standard...
Basically see if you can open up the air passage from the valve to the pellet. Anywhere where you can reduce the restriction of airflow might help...
3. Inserting a plenum. This can increase the fps, but you might loose some shot count as you reduce overall volume in your cylinder by increasing the volume of the regulated section of the rifle. This will allow "more air" (still the same regulated pressure, but just more of it) of push the pellet for that fraction that the valve is open.
Hope this helps.
Regards
JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 hi JB; if my regulator is set @ 125 bar give or take a few; what happens if i set it to say 140 bar. would that give it a little boost. could i start there before drilling and doing other stuff to it. or will that help at all thank you
@@roberttheriot7612 Yes, my mistake, that could be step 1. Prior to doing all the above. If it is a Lane regulator I think it is 5 bar / red line on the reg.....
Let me know how it improved the fps....
Hi what aftermarket regulator do you reccomend? I cant see a link.
Hi there.
I have used only the Lane regulators, but there might be some supply issues as Robert Lane has taken some time off. He is struggling with long-term illness. However depending on your rifle there might be several shops that have stock.
Apart From Lane Regulators : laneregulators.com/
The other big name is Huma : www.huma-air.com/
I believe both have good products , but as i have 2 rifles with Lane, and they work really well, ill just stick to what i know.
Be safe and happy hunting/shooting
Regards
JB
Sir,i losened the pressure adjuster screw to increase the reg pressure.But i didnt make any change on the hammer spring.i came to know from the chrony test that after i increase the reg pressure the velocity drops than before .what happened here..any help please
Hi there Hmangaihi.
How much did you loosen the Reg ??? How many dots did you turn anti- clockwise on the Reg....?? If you go more than 3 dots then your regulator pressure will be about 150 bar (if you ordered a 135 bar standard setting) . Now at 150 + and with the extra plastic spacer inside the valve assembly (to increase valve tension) it might be too Much pressure on the valve and preventing the valve from opening enough .... Always remember that on a Kral, or other "Basic" PCP's you do not put a regulator get more speed... You put a regulator to get constant velocity with each shot..... My kral without regulator start to shoot at about 900FPS with 200 bar in tank, but with the regulator I am at 830 FPS, but VERY accurate !!
Only the much more expensive FX impact type rifles you play with regulator, and hammer tension to increase velocity....
Hope this helps.
Regards
JB
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Thank you so much sir, i'm using Diana outlaw .177 Version.I'm turning the reg anticlockwise for four dots.Now i get to know the idea behind it.Thank you so much
How do you know you have the regulator set to 135 ? Do you just have to go by the marks on the regulator or can you see it on guns gauge ? Is 135 going to be what the gauge on the gun reads? How do you know what the pressure is inside the cylinder as your filling it up ? What is going on with the vent hole ? You didn't say anything about it or why its there? Why are people cutting the threads in the valve assembly and notching the cylinder to create a breather hole ? Is that just something some regulators like the huma have to have ? Do you have to make some type of breather hole once you install the regulator you showing ? Can you explain why some regulators have to have a vent hole that leads to the outside ?
Hi Steve.
Ok, 1st question: You order it "pre-set" to what you want. Once you get it , then , if you want, you can adjust using the side index as indicated in my video.
No 2: The reading on your pressure gauge depend on where it is situated. On my Bull-pup, the gauge is on the back of the cylinder from where you fill it. What you see there is the "pressure before it goes to the regulator".
On the Puncher Breaker (which is essentially the same gun...), the gauge is fitted to the valve assembly. You thus see the "regulated" pressure. You must beware of this as you need to use the pressure gauge of the devise that you fill the rifles with to determine how much pressure is in the cylinder. Your gauge on the Puncher Breaker will NOT tell you how much pressure is in the tank. Only the regulated pressure.
No 3 ; Breathe hole
If for some reason any pressure should leak (small amounts over time) into the regulator housing/unit then the balance (desiogn specs) no longer apply. The regulator is designed to overcome the spring pressure and close at certain value. Once air leaks into the regulator, that additional pressure will change the value at which the regulator opens and closes. It might NEVER leak into the regulator, but if it does it will change ....
So by adding a hole you ensure the same atmospheric pressure every time. That air that leaks from the breath hole needs to escape somewhere. It you look at the Kral then you can see that air is blocked on both sides of the regulator. But air can actualy move from the breath hole, past the sides of the valve assembly, through the threads of the valve assembly, but you MUST NOT put grease on the threads and also NOT return the original O-ring. Then it will breathe.
Some rifles, like my Gamo Coyote one must drill a "breathe hole" in your cylinder opposite the hole in the regulator.... I will make a video on this in May 2021 when I am finally back home....
Hope this is understood.
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Thanks I'll be looking for that video . I'm new to pcps and my hatsam hydra doesn't have a regulator in it and I like the idea of having less power with more shots at the same power . My Hatsan has the gauge that looks likes its on the valve assembly. So when I add the regulator my gauge will read the regulated pressure right and not whats on the other side right if I'm understand what you typed . This makes since and that was why I ask . I watched this video at least 5 0times now trying to get every thing figured out and if you said something about this I keep missing it . I can just see people like me not knowing anything about this installing a regulator and keep pumping the gun up and watching the gauge on the other side of the regulator only going to 135 and possibly blowing up the tank . If that's not in this video you should try to add that to it . It might save someone from getting hurt . This is one reason I like to find out exactly how something works before I do anything . I'm still not getting the breather hole . Are you saying a hole should always be added in the area between the 2 seals on the opposite side of the regulators hole even on the one in your video ? How do you know when air is getting into the area between the 2 seals ? What happens ? Sorry if my questions are stupid this is all new to me .
@@Sertao2013 Hi Steve and Happy new year.
Ok, I must confess that there is some technical flows in the "regulator I used." The one that fits into the Kral does not actualy have 2 outer o-rings (as the one in the photo). It only has 1. The breath-hole is on the valve assembly side of that single o-ring.
As the pressure on the outside the valve assembly is "zero" or at least equal to atmosphere pressure. Inside the valve assembly it is the regulated pressure and on the other side of the regulator (past that single o-ring) the pressure is equal to the cylinder pressure.... Thus if there was any small amount of air that MIGHT (not will, just maybe) leak past the o-ring that seals the piston stem from the section where the spring is located, then the following will happen.
There will be a pressure build up in the that section and this pressure will be added to the spring tension. For the regulator to now seal, the pressure on the piston head needs to overcome the spring tension AND additional pressure that leaked into that section. It would thus progressively increase the regulated pressure without you knowing it.
That regulator i used in my video is typically one where you would need to drill the hole in the rifle's cylinder. The hole would have to be between the two outer o-rings to allow air to escape out. The Kral regulator only has 1 o-ring and then the air escapes past the threads of the valve assembly....
This is what the kral's regulator looks like. When you look at this you will see the single o-ring on the outside and also the o-ring that the de-pinger cap seals on. the air thus cannot get to the outside of the valve assembly. You will also see the breath hole from where the air can breathe and then leak out the threads.
www.ebay.com/itm/KRAL-Puncher-PCP-Regulator-MK9-Lancet-by-Lane-Regulator-Made-in-the-UK-/123896263165
Now also have a look at my video to install the regulator and hopefully all will make sense then. (Ps, i used the same picture on the intro, but give detailed explanation later in the video and it shows the actual regulator very clearly....)
ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html
Ps: You were the 1st one to recognize this "error" in my video.....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Happy New year to you also . I'm still trying to digest all this info from your video and your reply 's and of now I don't know what I recognized a error lol . I just didn't see in the video about what the gauge would show when its below the regulator vs being on the other side or fill side gauge . But I think You answered that and I understand that now thanks to you. I;ll watch the attached videos you just gave me and try learn more about the because I really want to do it but I want to know everything about it first including the breathing hole thing and exactly how that works and why . I will have to read what you wrote here a few more hundred time for sure . I wish I know what error I recognized lol . Thanks for your replys I hope other people with my same questions will read your reply and it might help them also . After I watch your other video about the breather holes with one o-ring if I don't see what I'm looking for I might have to bother you again . Thanks again for your help .
@@Sertao2013 Hi again. The other video is not about the breathe hole, it is about installing the regulator, but seeing all the components, might just ignite the spark...
What you noticed was that the air could not actualy escape from the regulator's breath hole. As it was in my video.... The photo of the regulator i used had 2 two o-rings with the hole between them..... Does not make sense, but in a rifle where that regulator is used, you would have to drill a hole in the rifle cylinder.
hope that soon everything will make sense.
Regards
JB
Unregulated is more greater because its more in power
Yes, but I would rather have 25 very accurate shots than 5 or 6 high power shots and then the point of impact changes....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 unregulated perfect for hunting medium size wilb boar
Ok I like it but why not more video I would perc.
If so
Hi David. Not sure exactly what you would like? Looks like your message was cut short...?
What does breath hole does?
Hi there Laurens.
Very good and important point that I forgot to cover in this video.
If maybe there was a small leak of air on the o-rings inside the regulator then high pressure air could get past the regulator and the piston. If this happens the air will be trapped in the "chamber or section" where the spring is. Now the pressure will increases in that section. This will caused the force required to close/push the spring to increase.
If this happens then higher pressure in the valve assembly is required to push the piston head.
Thus if air got inside the section where the spring is, then as that pressure increases, so will the pressure required to close the regulator increase. Finally the regulator wont be able to close anymore because spring pressure and extra air pressure will be too much.
By making a small hole, and putting an o-ring either side of this hole, the air can escape from the section where the spring is. However you will need to drill a very small hole in your rifles cylinder (directly across from where this hole is to allow it to escape into the atmosphere. That is why we need a breath hole on SOME rifles.
The reason I forgot was because that model kral does not need a breathe hole drilled into the cylinder. In that model there is only one outer o-ring on the regulator and then air bleeds from the breathing hole and escapes past the valve assembly .
Look at this video from how i put the regulator into the Kral. I explain that you must not put the back the large o-ring of the valve assembly . The reason for not putting it back is for air to be able to leak past the threads into the atmosphere.
If your have a rifle that needs a breathing hole drilled in the cylinder, then it will have very clear instruction , and a drill, with the regulator you buy. Just follow the instruction when you fit the regulator to that rifle.
I hope this was clear for you....
ua-cam.com/video/IwCkdBye-rc/v-deo.html
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 thanks allot! One more question. If i need 110bar reg pressure, is it better to go for a low pressure reg (60-130 bar) or high pressure (110-160 bar)? I would think the low pressure because when choosing the high pressure the bellevil springs me be stronger then the pressure.
Hope you can assist!
A really good explanation of the working of a regulator 👍
Where can I get a after market regulator
Hi there Vijay.
Try this link:
facebook.com/AirgunRegulators/
Are You from South Africa Sir?
Hi Ansebbian. Yes, but currently living abroad in the UAE. I have been here 14 years and will finally return in April. My channel will be in full swing by mid May !!! Seriously looking forward to being home !!!
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 Awesome I thought I recognized the accent and also trust a South African to look at things and improve on it.."n Boer maak n plan" right...well everything of the best for you Mate!
@@ansebbianvonhessen7570 Baie dankie !! Ek waardeer dit !!
Bos Nek kowe dermawan kerem sama aq tu unut tak DO'AKAN kamu masok surga amin
Vo????? Shotes???????
Affordable airgunning is a oxymoron . This is the most overpriced shooting sport in the world !
Hi there . Yes I cannot agree more. !!! Please stay tuned to my channel. This was why I started the channel, but my "life-planning" is running about 2 years behind. By April next year my channel should be fully up and running. Then My focus will be to "show" that we DO NOT need those super expensive rifles. All the major UA-cam guys are shooting guns that less than 5% of the viewers can afford. My Kral cost 70% cheaper than my FX and up to 50m their grouping look the same. The scopes i use cost 15-20% of the new Nexus from element optics and is SPOT ON !! I hope that my channel will show to new , and old, air-gunners that we can actually all enjoy this sport without breaking the bank..... Already did one video on scope mountings as these are a super rip-off in general and perform and very "basic" task. However the "pros" tell us that one reason they shoot well is because they are using "those top quality" mounts.....
@@affordableairgunningbyjb6994 I just cannot trust my scope to cheap mounts for hunting . I have had aluminum mounts fail me in the field in the past and it cost me a 150 class whitetail. Remember good scope mounts are only for big game hunting so you point is valid unless you are using big bore stuff for large game . If you are please use high quality scope mounts . We spend to much time in afield and to much money to get to that trophy deer,elk or bear we worked all season to get in front of us to have a scope mount thread strip and throw off our shot . REmember scope mounts are meant to be strong enough your rifle can roll down a hill and still hold 0 . Recoil and shock from the rifle is basically something even the cheapest mounts can handle but it is the 1 time out of 100,000 moment that good scope mounts are built for .
I am currently building my own PCP rifle whitworth confederate rifle style . . I am experimenting with a technology that in the civil war could produce 2000 kill shots with powder charges 1/5 the size of a normal load of the era . So I believe this style of non rifling and twisted bullet that creates the bullet spin will translate well to the PCP rifle and may help get black powder performance in PCP big bore rifles . They used 451 caliber Whitworth bullets back then while I am working on a 7.62 and .223 calibers with the Whitworth bullet in my rifle prototypes . I have completed the 223 version prototype and am currently troubleshooting the .308 now . The .223 was shooting 1010 feet per second with a 55 grain bullet before the regulator crapped on it . I am designing a new regulator system now for the .308 and if it works I will use it on the final versions of these rifles . When the .223 version was finished I was hitting 1 moa at 175 yards through 35 shots . Instead of using the hex Whitworth bullet I found a company who makes a proprietary .223 bullet for a non rifled AR 15 . These bullets look just like the nerf footballs with the wing tails on the rear and they work unbelievable in the whitworth hex barrel . Finding a .308 ammo like it has been the biggest hold up in its development but I have 22 molds for different lead castings to test to find the best possible bullet to shoot from it . When I am done I can send you one to test on your channel if you are into testing something wild and different .
I have built 12 or more different PCP air rifles over the past 5 years so when I see FX or any air rifle company charge 1500 to 2000 dollars for the rifles they sell it pisses me off . I know exactly how much it cost for one guy in a shop to build a high end PCP. So these factory PCps who can build them even cheaper than I can really pisses me off ! They are making about 99 cents on every dollar ! These PCP air rifles have no reason to cost what they do ! Even the very best PCP rifle on the market only cost about 85 dollars to produce .
@@jesusoftheapes 1 moa at 175 yards through 35 shots !! That is NOT TO SHABBY !! Yes, the PCP world has exploded and sadly the manufactures are in on it. Guys trying to continuously stretch the range... ?? Why... If I want to go past 75 yards, I use my rim-fire.... . past that the 30.06 and past that the 6.5 creedmoor.
A Pellet is a pellet.... Keep to what it "should" be used for. Yes, I have seen them take pigeons at 200 yards and last week a Squirrel at 563 yards (yes 5-6-3 !!) , but they only show the "kill" shots. How many animals are wounded to eventually get that 1 shot on film.
Regarding the scope mountings: If I drop my rifle, as in "drop" it good. I will do a full and comprehensive check of every components and will stop the hunt till I have shot at least a 5 shot group from a bench to what i know my rifle did before the the drop. Only then continue the hunt. In my Travel kit on hunts (not in my back-pack, but in camp) I have spare of everything if the hunt is an expensive or out of town hunt..... I will use better mounts on rifles with re-coil, but for what we use, or should be using, our PCP's, go for cheap without even a drop of worry.... Saw a guy this week buying mounts for over 120 $ to put on his PCP.... For what ??
Will be in touch once I am back home and my channel in full swing.... I cannot wait !!
I suppose the cost really depends on where you live. Where I live, air rifles do not require a license to buy. So there's no annual recurring cost that comes with obtaining and holding a license. Pellets and slugs are an order of magnitude cheaper than regular ammunition, as in good quality .22LR costs 20 euro for a box of 50, good quality slugs for my .177 PCP cost 15 euro for a box of 500.
So for me the difference in cost for a decent PCP might be in the high hundreds of euros, where a good .22LR could be had for only a few hundred. The on-going cost of ammunition and licencing quickly turns that picture around. I can go to the range and put 200 pellets down range every week and all it costs me is a couple euro in lead.
The up-front cost for air rifles may be higher, especially for PCP there's quite a financial barrier to entry, but once you get over that, it's much cheaper from there.
For me personally I wanted to start in a new sport where my RA isn't a big factor. So I found a range club that has a 25m indoor bench rest competition. Went there to have a look around get a feel for the atmosphere and the people and joined. But I wasn't convinced it was for me, so spending upwards of 1000 euro on a rifle and all the stuff for PCP wasn't going to happen.
Instead I got a 70 euro multi pump rifle in .177. I put on a 60 euro 3-9x40 scope with the included mounts. Got a 40 euro bi-pod that clamps on the barrel. One of those bubble levels that goes on the dovetail rail. Including a decent bag, a cleaning rod and all that jazz, I spent less than 300 on the entire setup.
There were a few annoying people at the range the first time joking about how I had dressed up a toy gun, and how I should have at least spent 400 on a springer or even 1000 on a PCP. After shooting 5 5-shot sub-centimetre groups at 25m, the jokes stopped. In my first year of competition that cheap multipump rifle beat every springer at the range.
Though after a few months the fact that it had an annoying barrel twist rate did make me buy a walther lothar barrel blank, which I had machined to fit in place of the "foil" barrel. The added barrel length and slower twist rate made for faster more stable pellets. Best I ever did with that multipump was a 6mm 5-shot group at 25m.
The thing is once I knew this was for me, spending the almost 900 euro to get my .177 Walther Reign to where it is today was much less of an obstacle. But that rifle is still very much an indoor bench rest diva. It doesn't get jostled like a hunting rifle. The closest to hunting that rifle does is a spot of pest control in my vegetable garden. So good enough scope mounts are good enough, same goes for the scope itself.
Hunting is obviously a different matter and to be fair it is ridiculously pricy to get into PCP hunting as the up-front cost just goes up and up and up, and you might never burn through enough ammo to ever claw back the difference compared to an AR15 platform. Also the cost of slugs goes up rapidly with calibre, which makes the price difference with regular ammo much smaller. A box of .357 slugs for my 100m air rifle costs 20 euro for 100, which is still less than half the cost per shot compared to .22LR, but there is more than couple hundred euro in difference between a modified Benjamin Bulldog and a decent .22LR. At barely 30ct per shot difference, it's going to take a long time to justify the probably 1200+ euro price difference for the rifles. And that's not including the other stuff you need for PCP hunting. Stuff I already had before I got into 100m outdoor.
A friend of mine from Kentucky bought the same setup for hunting on his homestead kind of on impulse after seeing my Bulldog, and he regrets it to this day. Not because it's a bad rifle or because it's too light to hunt small deer and rabbits and the like for food. But because he will never recoup the difference in up front cost compared to a normal rifle.
Beats gender studies or underwater basket weaving.
Now that is the truth !!! 🤣
Hi, very informative video and I thank you for the time you spent making it. I just bought a kral and it has a regulator installed so I opened it up like any good man would 😜there's not a spring in it but Bellville washers stacked like this(()) (()) (()) (()) now if I stacked them differently () () () () () () () () () will this increase my shots? Or power please speculate a bit 💪
Hi Aza.
I have as yet not adjusted a reg using Belleville washers. As the rifle is not "suppose" to be opened (ha-ha) there probably aren't instructions on how to adjust. However: if you by either re-arranging, or reducing the amount of washers can reduce the pressure recuired to "close" the regulator, the shot count will increase and the velocity decrease.....
The more pressure the washer push onto the piston the higher the pressure will be in the regulated section. Thus less shots, but more speed....
Just do not over do it as you might get hammer lock.... this is when the hammer can no longer open the valve... this is dangerous !
Hope this makes sense...
Regards JB