Jersey Mike, I suffered a stroke 2 years ago and my memory is very bad. I could NOT remember how to wire a zone after 38 years in the industry. My wife was actually in tears when I watched this video and I went back on a job to help a Co worker out. Well… This video did something to me that my wiring skills ARE IN FACT coming back to me. Sincerely THANK YOU. Feels good to be worth something again. Blessings my friend Thank you.
Im truly honored in knowing I helped play a role in your come back. Thank you so much for sharing that. It's a pleasure. I'm very happy to hear you're doing well again!
Finally someone that broke down the wiring schematic it’s the most simplest of ways without branching out into other info that we know about the zone valve. Thanks for the video man
Had a medical earra over a year ago, mind memory ain't the same no more, have a hard time with the colors now, was a journeyman plumber, had to replace two motor on honeywell, thxz for bring my wiring configuration back for awhile, it helped me out, so let's see the other wiring.... ThxU Sir
Awesome video Mike, I was taught zone valves in HVAC school and your five steps to wiring Honeywell zone valves makes it a lot easier to understand. Thank you.
Great video got me to the point I could quickly wire up what my "plumber" couldn't... when he replaced my zone valves. He got thrown off cause the transformer had stopped working or had been shorted out. But your quick explanation of the two 24V circuits made it easy to understand, diagnose the problem, wire it up and tell him bring a new transformer and it's good to go... and it was!
Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to provide such a good tutorial. Took care of the problem of my Mother in Laws issue with both thermostats in the mother/daughter turning on both valves which kind of defeated the idea of 2 zones.
Thanks a lot again it really helped me a lot to understand if it wasn’t from you I couldn’t understand but thank you now I do understand and I can do my first job. I’m new in the field man and I appreciate what you’re doing. I learned a lot today thank you and do more videos you can, have a blessed day
EXTREMELY usefull. My dad has been trying to wire a 3 zone for a customer for over 20 working hours if you can believe that.. I plan on starting work in the morning and going over if he wired them in the manner you explained. iether way of me ( 10 year apprentice) being helpful or lightbub moment with those cheat sheets screenshots or not. THANKYOU!
Hi,I love your videos,I do piping, Instead boilar but never wiring boilar,I larn lot from your videos.Tiis is best method you have ,my prayer to tou God will take care of you .If is possible please make a video for hydronic boilar wiring ,transformer,thermostrat,damper, lower water cut off,aquestrat,circulater, wiring to boilar ,which wire connect with wich .I worked a person,he didn't like someone learn wiring.thank you for your sacrifice for like me lot of of people . Thanks again ,God bless you and your family.
Happy that it helps you. Im working on a 120 volt wiring video now that will cover burner switches, transformers, service outlets and low water cut offs. I'll do more in time. Appreciate the comment! Thanks.
The links don’t work, buddy. But I really do appreciate your videos. Im also from Jersey, just starting out in the trade and trying to learn everything I can. Thanks again!
Jersy Mike, thanks for this video. I have a boiler heating system that is virtually the same as this one in the video. Wired everything up exactly as you recommend here and it works fine. I have a 24V 40VA transformer operating the zone valves ONLY, and a separate 24V 40VA transformer powering a Sensi smart thermostat (to supply the C wire). I'm about to add another Sensi smart thermostat and use that same transformer to power it. Will this cause any conflicts between the two transformers or the zone valves, like a voltage increase, etc? Don't want to burn up any components.
I love the 5 steps! I have 3 tacos, with 1 transformer and 1 circulation pump. The wiring is a mess. How similar is the wiring for a taco to your 5 step video?
Hey Mike, this is amazingly detailed. Awesome job. Quick question, I have 4 zones, a main zone (inlet to the rest of the 4), and an oil burner. I have all the wires you mentioned here, but I also have 2 more wires going directly into the burner. Should I be connecting them with the 24v connection?
hi jersey mike. i finally understand how to wire up to four honeywell zone valves on a 40va transformer. how would i connect seven zone valves. i would need a second 40va transformer and connect four on one transformer and three on the other. i assume steps 3,4,5 are the same for connecting the zone valves, transformer and thermostat to the yellow wires, then all the reds from the seven zone valves are connected to the tt on the boiler. can you send me a diagram , thank you
Everything in your explanation matches what I have, except I also have a C wire coming from my Nest stats. Do I just add these C wires to the Common wires bundled together in Step 4?
It can possibly work that way. Might be better off bundling together all of the commons from the stats separately and running an extra tstat wire from the bundle to the transformer. Even though it's going to the same place, it would be a more direct path.
Not only was this video good, but you did not do it with one zone like everyone else, but several. The usual nightmare people walk into. I always tell my son, changing out a part is easy, learning your wiring is 100% a must.
I've always wired Honeywell zone valves this way. That is how I was taught. I recently had a Emerson Sensi wifi tstat acting goofy. I using the same common that I'm using for all the thermostats W therminal to complete the circuit. Thermostat will call for heat and then it won't. Take it off sub base and jump R to W .. heat kicks in. Probably going to get a new thermostat
Hi Jersey Mike, awesome, clear video, thank you for doing this… There is a problem with one of the zone valves in our heating system since it was 'serviced' a couple of years ago. When the 1st. floor thermostat controlling the heat to the front of the house turns on the heat, it also activates the zone valve for the 2nd. floor bedrooms. The other two zones, including the one for the 2nd. floor bedrooms, work properly each controlling the heat of their own zone. Before attempting to make any changes to the existing wiring, I looked at your Zone Valve Wiring Cheat Sheet. The first discrepancy found is that the RED (load) cable from the transformer is connected to the WHITE cables from each thermostat, and the WHITE (common) is connected to the YELLOW cables from each zone valve. I traced the RED cables coming from each of the thermostats, and they connect to the respective YELLOW cable of their zone valve. Any suggestions of what could be causing this malfunction? Will it be safe to go ahead and disconnect all the wires and start from scratch following all steps from your cheat sheet. Thanks in advance
Turn off all of the thermostats. Turn on only the thermostat for the 2nd floor bedroom that you're having an issue with. Does that thermostat alone properly control the boiler turning it on and off? Or does nothing happen? Also, does red connect to R and white to W at the stats?
Hi, thanks for getting back to me, I greatly appreciate it. Each thermostat worked properly with their own zone valve, turning on and off the boiler. Red connected to R and white to W at the stats, checked OK. These is what I did next: Second floor bedrooms thermostat on and set the temp to 50F. First floor front zone thermostat on and set the temp at 90F. Second floor zone valve lever feels closed to the touch, does not move, but water flows through it. Then: Second floor bedrooms thermostat on and set the temp at 90F, the zone valve lever moves freely back and forth. First floor back zone thermostat on and set the temp at 90F, works fine. It appears that the second floor zone valve does not close properly. But, why when the first floor back zone thermostat is set at 90F, if the second floor valve is not completely closed the water does not flow through it? They are all connected to the same hot water supply line. 🤔
The wiring seems fine then. I have seen pressure changes in flow through changing manifold configurations as zone valves open and close, sometimes causing scenarios where a zone valve would not fully close but it would heat up or not just depending on which of the other zones were calling. It's a little weird but I've seen it. You can try to flush through the zone valve by opening and closing it manually a bunch of times as water is flushing through it, but it may be time to replace the valve body.
Thanks again... Flushed through the zone valve manually several times. It looked like it worked for a couple of minutes, but then, it did it again. I'll change the valve body as soon as I have a chance, and I'll send you an update. Enjoy the rest of the weekend!!! @@JerseyMikeHVAC
Great video! I came across a situation with the Taco gold zone valves (which have the 3 screw terminals). No extra transformer, just the TT from the cube relay on a burnham boiler. In my situation even though the stats weren’t calling the boiler was still coming on with the circulator running an that was with all zone valves closed an no voltage across my 1&2 terminals. Any thoughts? Could you do a video on these power heads wiring?
My initial suspicion would be a valve stuck open, which would give you no voltage between 1 & 2 when nothing is calling but continuity between 2 & 3 on a closed TT circuit. I just released a video a few days ago where I go into the internal wiring of Taco 3 wire zone valve power heads. ua-cam.com/video/kn73V0BnSq4/v-deo.html
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thank you I’ll be returning back there to either to pin point the bad power head an replace or wire everything into a taco switching relay for zone valves
Ive never worken on these honeywells before, so correct me if im wrong please, it appears that they are using the r and w circuit in the stat to complete the common circuit from the motor back to the xformer common. Is that correct? If so wouldnt there be no 24 volts on the r terminal in the tstat? Thats where im getting confused. I understand a tstat is just a switch that is either opened or closed but ive always seen 24v on R to C for instance,and then W to C when calling for heat, Y to C for cooling ect. or if no common on stat i would expect to see 24v from R to W when no call for heat,24v on R and Y on no call for cooling ect. And then no power reading when there is a call on those. So i guess im missing something here.
2 ways to do it. 1: Take 1 yellow wire from each zone valve and tie them all together with the "load" wire from transformer. Tie all of the other yellow wires from the zone valves with the red wire going up to the R terminal on the thermostat. W wire from stat directly back to common on transformer. 2: Load wire from transformer directly up to R terminal on thermostat. Wire from W terminal on thermostat with one yellow wire from each zone valve all together. Other yellow wires from zone valves tied together with wire going back to common on transformer.
Dear Jersey, thanks for your very detailed information, but my zone valve has black and red wire , does yellow wire can be considered black wire in my case Thanks
hello great video. does this work for combi and Hi eff boilers that hang on the wall as well? great information here. especially on the end switch hookup
Thank you. I've done one or two combis with zone valves, but from what I remember the t and t connections might have been slightly different than in this video.
A Question load from the transformer, can it go through the TT from thermostat first and then go to the zone valve. I know currently the way is to connect the yellow wire from zone valve first and then goes through to the TT on the thermostat. Thank you for the helpful video.
The thermostat and the T&T are on separate 24 volt circuits, but yes, you can wire the load off of the transformer to the thermostat R terminal first and then to the zone valve motor from the W terminal via one of the yellow wires. The other yellow wire would then go back to transformer common. If I remember correctly, I believe the last diagram in the description shows this arrangement.
I have a 3 zone boiler setup like this. What would be the best way to make this type of system "smart"? I was thinking of getting some thermostatic radiator valves to replace the poptop valves. But then that won't send the send a call to the boiler as well. Can you recommend any equipment?
Thermostatic radiator valves are more of a zoning type of concept that still have to be manually set. The idea is to adjust each radiator to produce a certain level of heat room to room. If you want smart technology, I would recommend a circulator pump for the boiler that integrates smart technology, such as something like this: www.xylem.com/en-us/products--services/pumps-packaged-pump-systems/pumps/wet-rotor-circulators/heating-cooling-circulators/ecocirc-20-18/ You'll certainly have to do some homework to make sure it's compatible and works with your system, but that's where I would start looking.
Thank you!! What is meant by T&T wires? I have R, W, and C terminals on my boiler (for heat thermostat). Are R and W for the T&T wires? Doesn’t matter which - R or W?
I'd have to know a lot more about all of the equipment you have there to really begin to give answers, But the TT circuit Is the burner circuit that fires up and shuts down the boiler. R, W and C are generally terminals of another circuit that is commanded by the thermostat. That circuit gets acrivated by the thermostat, which in turn activates the TT circuit to fire the boiler. So generally they aren't the same circuit. There are a lot of different arrangements out there though as fat as equipment, which would be relevant when it comes to ow to wire it all up.
Actually, now that I think about it, do you have a Crown Boiler by any chance? Some brands have R-W-C terminals on the control boards in the boiler like you describe, and in that case, yes, the TT connections would be made to the R and W terminals there. C generally isn't used. And no, it doesn't matter which goes to which (R and W).
@@JerseyMikeHVAC But more and more the C wire is needed to power all these smart t-stats. Try getting a Nest to work without one. Not fun. Great explanation video for the zones though. Thanks.
Great video. I have a related question. I have three Honeywell zone valves with two wires going to each thermostat. I want to install a Wyze thermostat which requires a common. Luckily, I have three wires going from my thermostat to the zone valve, and the third was just tucked away. My problem is I don't know what to hook that wire to. I tried hooking it to the common which allowed the Wyze thermostat to power on, but as soon as it tried to call for heat, it would shut down. I guess this could be from the valve opening causing a voltage drop, but it happens before I even hear the relay click, which makes me think the wiring is wrong. Any ideas? In other words, how do I supply a common wire to the t-stat from a zone valve system?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks for the reply! There are three zone valves, each with one of their yellow wires connected to the common from the transformer with a wire nut. That wire nut is where I connected my new common wire. In other words, I am not going directly back to the transformer, but connecting to a wire nut that goes to the transformer as well as the other valves.
For a smart thermostat? It can be tied into the bundle of wires coming back from the W terminals from the thermostats just before returning to the transformer common, but it doesn't always work with some stats.
I want to install Nest thermostats in 4 zone system that does not currently have the required "C" (blue?) wire connected. There are unused wires. Where do I connect the C in a multi-zone system? Can i connect all the C wires from the Nest thermostats together at this source?
It all goes back to a common terminal, typically on a transformer and in many cases multiple commons go back to the same place together. Only issue you're likely to have is that Honeywell zone valves max out a 40va transformer after 4 or 5 zone valves (about 3 taco zone valves do the same). That probably isn't going to leave enough room to power 4 Nest thermostats. You may have to add a second transformer and split the zone valves and Nests 2 and 2, instead of all 4 zones and thermostats on one.
T just stands for "thermostat" and there are always 2 connections for a thermostat going into the boiler, hence 2 Ts. There will always be two T wires or terminals that allows a control device to turn the boiler on and off. These two Ts are opposite ends of the same circuit, which is the burner circuit. That includes all of the safeties like limit switches, spill switches, roll out switches, the gas valve, sometimes a vent damper, a spark ignition and control board, or sometimes a standing pilot with a thermocouple. But it's everything in one circuit the boiler needs to fire up. When a connection is made from one T wire or terminal to the other T wire or terminal, the circuit is complete and the boiler fires up. When that circuit is broken, the boiler shuts down. On some boilers the thermostat is hooked directly up to these T and T wires. One from the thermostats R terminal and the other from the thermostats W terminal. So the thermostat itself becomes the on/off switch for that circuit. On other boilers, such ad the type with zone valves, the thermostat only activates a motor in the zone valve, and there is a small switch inside called an "end switch" the motor activates when it is fully open. In that case the thermostat is still controlling the boiler, but not directly. The stat is just turning a motor on and off, and the motor opens and closes the end switch to turn the boiler on and off.
I have a motel with six valves with thermostats in each room. the boiler is at the end of room 1 where the transformer is for the power for the valve motor. the wire is ran from boiler to room 1 in series to room 6 with three wire thermostat wire, it has been this way for a long time but we had someone mess with the wiring and now trying to figure out how to fix it with only the three wires looks like i would need four with your drawings or how did they use three wires? Please help thanks in advance
OK. Trying to get an idea of what arrangement you have there because it's not typical. Tell me more about what you mean when you say the t-stats are wired in series. What connections are made at the thermostat terminals? Is common being used there?
Jersey Mike, I suffered a stroke 2 years ago and my memory is very bad. I could NOT remember how to wire a zone after 38 years in the industry. My wife was actually in tears when I watched this video and I went back on a job to help a Co worker out. Well… This video did something to me that my wiring skills ARE IN FACT coming back to me. Sincerely THANK YOU. Feels good to be worth something again. Blessings my friend Thank you.
Im truly honored in knowing I helped play a role in your come back. Thank you so much for sharing that. It's a pleasure. I'm very happy to hear you're doing well again!
That's fantastic!!
Badass
Finally someone that broke down the wiring schematic it’s the most simplest of ways without branching out into other info that we know about the zone valve. Thanks for the video man
You're welcome!
Had a medical earra over a year ago, mind memory ain't the same no more, have a hard time with the colors now, was a journeyman plumber, had to replace two motor on honeywell, thxz for bring my wiring configuration back for awhile, it helped me out, so let's see the other wiring.... ThxU Sir
You're welcome
That alternate diagram at the end helped me out a lot because that’s how my zone valves are wire.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching the whole video.
Awesome video Mike, I was taught zone valves in HVAC school and your five steps to wiring Honeywell zone valves makes it a lot easier to understand. Thank you.
Great video, zone valves have almost made me cry. You really simplified the process.
I’ve been through 2 controllers in 5 years and this has saved the day for me
Thankyou
You're welcome!
Mike, you are the absolute best
Hands down best video on this topic!! Thanks
You're welcome
Excellent video ! My friend in HVAC walked me through over phone & couldn't get it ! This was perfect - THANK YOU !
Thanks Nick! Glad it helped.
Great video got me to the point I could quickly wire up what my "plumber" couldn't... when he replaced my zone valves. He got thrown off cause the transformer had stopped working or had been shorted out. But your quick explanation of the two 24V circuits made it easy to understand, diagnose the problem, wire it up and tell him bring a new transformer and it's good to go... and it was!
That's great, Chris! Glad to hear it.
Bro, you are the man. I've seen other videos on this, but trust me this was the absolute best!
Thanks, brother.
Finally someone made this make sense to me. Thank you thank you thank you.
You're welcome!!!
Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to provide such a good tutorial. Took care of the problem of my Mother in Laws issue with both thermostats in the mother/daughter turning on both valves which kind of defeated the idea of 2 zones.
Thanks Paul! Really happy to hear that my video helped.
Thanks so much Mike, you’ve explained everything simply for me to understand.
Thanks a lot again it really helped me a lot to understand if it wasn’t from you I couldn’t understand but thank you now I do understand and I can do my first job. I’m new in the field man and I appreciate what you’re doing. I learned a lot today thank you and do more videos you can, have a blessed day
Make sure you check out this video too. There are 2 ways guys wire these things up.
ua-cam.com/video/9kVQpeNezL0/v-deo.html
@@JerseyMikeHVAC and thanks a lot for all your help. I will check it out.
This is an outstanding presentation. Easy to understand and defiantly useful. Thank you.
Wowww you made sense of the spaghetti i was looking at by my boiler 🎉 saving this video
EXTREMELY usefull. My dad has been trying to wire a 3 zone for a customer for over 20 working hours if you can believe that.. I plan on starting work in the morning and going over if he wired them in the manner you explained. iether way of me ( 10 year apprentice) being helpful or lightbub moment with those cheat sheets screenshots or not. THANKYOU!
No problem. Let me know how it goes.
This was so easy to follow, thanks so much for this.
You're welcome
Hi,I love your videos,I do piping, Instead boilar but never wiring boilar,I larn lot from your videos.Tiis is best method you have ,my prayer to tou God will take care of you .If is possible please make a video for hydronic boilar wiring ,transformer,thermostrat,damper, lower water cut off,aquestrat,circulater, wiring to boilar ,which wire connect with wich
.I worked a person,he didn't like someone learn wiring.thank you for your sacrifice for like me lot of of people . Thanks again ,God bless you and your family.
Happy that it helps you. Im working on a 120 volt wiring video now that will cover burner switches, transformers, service outlets and low water cut offs. I'll do more in time. Appreciate the comment! Thanks.
Exactly what I was looking for … Thanks!
Awesome video
Nicely done Jersey Mike
Thanks!
This was seriously helpful thank you 🙏
Glad it helped!
The links don’t work, buddy. But I really do appreciate your videos. Im also from Jersey, just starting out in the trade and trying to learn everything I can. Thanks again!
Thanks for the heads up. They should be working now. Thanks!
Great explanation great job please make the other video y thank you
Please make a video of 3rd wiring. I just got stuck on that 2 weeks ago
Very good videos. I really appreciate them and am learning a lot!
Great video keep the good work up
Thank you for sharing brother.
You are very welcome
THANK YOU 🤟 . COOL BEANS 🤜🤛
Jersy Mike, thanks for this video. I have a boiler heating system that is virtually the same as this one in the video. Wired everything up exactly as you recommend here and it works fine. I have a 24V 40VA transformer operating the zone valves ONLY, and a separate 24V 40VA transformer powering a Sensi smart thermostat (to supply the C wire). I'm about to add another Sensi smart thermostat and use that same transformer to power it. Will this cause any conflicts between the two transformers or the zone valves, like a voltage increase, etc? Don't want to burn up any components.
As long as the thermostats are the only devices on the circuit, should be fine.
I love the 5 steps! I have 3 tacos, with 1 transformer and 1 circulation pump. The wiring is a mess. How similar is the wiring for a taco to your 5 step video?
Very different. But I do have a video for Taco zone valve wiring. ua-cam.com/video/kn73V0BnSq4/v-deo.html
Perfect explanation thank you
You're welcome!
Great video!!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
That's awesome. Thank you so much
No problem 👍
Hi Mike ramat new York dam u good that the most simple explanation .thank.electrician
Hey Mike, this is amazingly detailed. Awesome job. Quick question, I have 4 zones, a main zone (inlet to the rest of the 4), and an oil burner. I have all the wires you mentioned here, but I also have 2 more wires going directly into the burner. Should I be connecting them with the 24v connection?
Is this in addition to the T & T wires to activate the boiler?
hi jersey mike. i finally understand how to wire up to four honeywell zone valves on a 40va transformer. how would i connect seven zone valves. i would need a second 40va transformer and connect four on one transformer and three on the other. i assume steps 3,4,5 are the same for connecting the zone valves, transformer and thermostat to the yellow wires, then all the reds from the seven zone valves are connected to the tt on the boiler. can you send me a diagram , thank you
You are the best
Thanks!
Everything in your explanation matches what I have, except I also have a C wire coming from my Nest stats. Do I just add these C wires to the Common wires bundled together in Step 4?
It can possibly work that way. Might be better off bundling together all of the commons from the stats separately and running an extra tstat wire from the bundle to the transformer.
Even though it's going to the same place, it would be a more direct path.
Very well done. Thanks.
thank you very much very good video
Great vid! Can you do one for Taco three wire zv's?
Thanks. Yeah, Ive gotten a few requests for the 3 wire Tacos. I'll try to do one soon.
Not only was this video good, but you did not do it with one zone like everyone else, but several. The usual nightmare people walk into. I always tell my son, changing out a part is easy, learning your wiring is 100% a must.
Absolutely. I say pretty much the same to apprentices when they want to know how to test a part but they don't understand the wiring.
I've always wired Honeywell zone valves this way. That is how I was taught. I recently had a Emerson Sensi wifi tstat acting goofy. I using the same common that I'm using for all the thermostats W therminal to complete the circuit. Thermostat will call for heat and then it won't. Take it off sub base and jump R to W .. heat kicks in. Probably going to get a new thermostat
Yup. I've had problems with and have heard of others with the same problem with the the bases on quite a few different brands.
Hi Jersey Mike, awesome, clear video, thank you for doing this…
There is a problem with one of the zone valves in our heating system since it was 'serviced' a couple of years ago. When the 1st. floor thermostat controlling the heat to the front of the house turns on the heat, it also activates the zone valve for the 2nd. floor bedrooms.
The other two zones, including the one for the 2nd. floor bedrooms, work properly each controlling the heat of their own zone.
Before attempting to make any changes to the existing wiring, I looked at your Zone Valve Wiring Cheat Sheet.
The first discrepancy found is that the RED (load) cable from the transformer is connected to the WHITE cables from each thermostat, and the WHITE (common) is connected to the YELLOW cables from each zone valve.
I traced the RED cables coming from each of the thermostats, and they connect to the respective YELLOW cable of their zone valve.
Any suggestions of what could be causing this malfunction? Will it be safe to go ahead and disconnect all the wires and start from scratch following all steps from your cheat sheet.
Thanks in advance
Turn off all of the thermostats. Turn on only the thermostat for the 2nd floor bedroom that you're having an issue with. Does that thermostat alone properly control the boiler turning it on and off? Or does nothing happen?
Also, does red connect to R and white to W at the stats?
Hi, thanks for getting back to me, I greatly appreciate it.
Each thermostat worked properly with their own zone valve, turning on and off the boiler.
Red connected to R and white to W at the stats, checked OK.
These is what I did next:
Second floor bedrooms thermostat on and set the temp to 50F.
First floor front zone thermostat on and set the temp at 90F.
Second floor zone valve lever feels closed to the touch, does not move, but water flows through it.
Then:
Second floor bedrooms thermostat on and set the temp at 90F, the zone valve lever moves freely back and forth.
First floor back zone thermostat on and set the temp at 90F, works fine.
It appears that the second floor zone valve does not close properly.
But, why when the first floor back zone thermostat is set at 90F, if the second floor valve is not completely closed the water does not flow through it? They are all connected to the same hot water supply line. 🤔
The wiring seems fine then.
I have seen pressure changes in flow through changing manifold configurations as zone valves open and close, sometimes causing scenarios where a zone valve would not fully close but it would heat up or not just depending on which of the other zones were calling. It's a little weird but I've seen it.
You can try to flush through the zone valve by opening and closing it manually a bunch of times as water is flushing through it, but it may be time to replace the valve body.
Thanks again...
Flushed through the zone valve manually several times.
It looked like it worked for a couple of minutes, but then, it did it again.
I'll change the valve body as soon as I have a chance, and I'll send you an update.
Enjoy the rest of the weekend!!! @@JerseyMikeHVAC
@@Rodolfo-l1f Hi, just changed the complete valve, and all is working well now.
I greatly appreciated your knowledge AND patience!
Great video! I came across a situation with the Taco gold zone valves (which have the 3 screw terminals). No extra transformer, just the TT from the cube relay on a burnham boiler. In my situation even though the stats weren’t calling the boiler was still coming on with the circulator running an that was with all zone valves closed an no voltage across my 1&2 terminals. Any thoughts? Could you do a video on these power heads wiring?
My initial suspicion would be a valve stuck open, which would give you no voltage between 1 & 2 when nothing is calling but continuity between 2 & 3 on a closed TT circuit.
I just released a video a few days ago where I go into the internal wiring of Taco 3 wire zone valve power heads.
ua-cam.com/video/kn73V0BnSq4/v-deo.html
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thank you I’ll be returning back there to either to pin point the bad power head an replace or wire everything into a taco switching relay for zone valves
Those switching relays really clean it all up. Love em. Let me know how it goes.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC If you’re using the aquastat control transformer as your power Do you have to put a jumper wire between one and three?
What brand and model is the aquastst relay?
Ive never worken on these honeywells before, so correct me if im wrong please, it appears that they are using the r and w circuit in the stat to complete the common circuit from the motor back to the xformer common. Is that correct? If so wouldnt there be no 24 volts on the r terminal in the tstat? Thats where im getting confused. I understand a tstat is just a switch that is either opened or closed but ive always seen 24v on R to C for instance,and then W to C when calling for heat, Y to C for cooling ect. or if no common on stat i would expect to see 24v from R to W when no call for heat,24v on R and Y on no call for cooling ect. And then no power reading when there is a call on those. So i guess im missing something here.
Hi Mike one thermostat to control 3 zone values. The wiring drawings. Thank
2 ways to do it.
1: Take 1 yellow wire from each zone valve and tie them all together with the "load" wire from transformer. Tie all of the other yellow wires from the zone valves with the red wire going up to the R terminal on the thermostat. W wire from stat directly back to common on transformer.
2: Load wire from transformer directly up to R terminal on thermostat. Wire from W terminal on thermostat with one yellow wire from each zone valve all together. Other yellow wires from zone valves tied together with wire going back to common on transformer.
Dear Jersey, thanks for your very detailed information, but my zone valve has black and red wire , does yellow wire can be considered black wire in my case
Thanks
Yes, black wires are for the motor. Red wires end switch.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC
Thanks for your immediate reply, one last question please , what is best ( 4 wires) zone valve
Thanks
@kddd1863 Honeywell is the most often used.
hello great video. does this work for combi and Hi eff boilers that hang on the wall as well? great information here. especially on the end switch hookup
Thank you. I've done one or two combis with zone valves, but from what I remember the t and t connections might have been slightly different than in this video.
A Question load from the transformer, can it go through the TT from thermostat first and then go to the zone valve. I know currently the way is to connect the yellow wire from zone valve first and then goes through to the TT on the thermostat. Thank you for the helpful video.
The thermostat and the T&T are on separate 24 volt circuits, but yes, you can wire the load off of the transformer to the thermostat R terminal first and then to the zone valve motor from the W terminal via one of the yellow wires. The other yellow wire would then go back to transformer common.
If I remember correctly, I believe the last diagram in the description shows this arrangement.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC thank you for your response. Your video are helpful
I have a 3 zone boiler setup like this. What would be the best way to make this type of system "smart"? I was thinking of getting some thermostatic radiator valves to replace the poptop valves. But then that won't send the send a call to the boiler as well. Can you recommend any equipment?
Thermostatic radiator valves are more of a zoning type of concept that still have to be manually set. The idea is to adjust each radiator to produce a certain level of heat room to room. If you want smart technology, I would recommend a circulator pump for the boiler that integrates smart technology, such as something like this:
www.xylem.com/en-us/products--services/pumps-packaged-pump-systems/pumps/wet-rotor-circulators/heating-cooling-circulators/ecocirc-20-18/
You'll certainly have to do some homework to make sure it's compatible and works with your system, but that's where I would start looking.
Perfect!
I have 7 zone valves on my this boiler I’m working on with each one having its own thermostat. Will this work being their all on separate T-stats?
This video would be better for multiple zone valves and stats:
ua-cam.com/video/9kVQpeNezL0/v-deo.html
Can you make a video on caleffi zone valves?
Thanks
Welcome
Thank you!!
What is meant by T&T wires?
I have R, W, and C terminals on my boiler (for heat thermostat).
Are R and W for the T&T wires?
Doesn’t matter which - R or W?
I'd have to know a lot more about all of the equipment you have there to really begin to give answers, But the TT circuit
Is the burner circuit that fires up and shuts down the boiler. R, W and C are generally terminals of another circuit that is commanded by the thermostat. That circuit gets acrivated by the thermostat, which in turn activates the TT circuit to fire the boiler. So generally they aren't the same circuit. There are a lot of different arrangements out there though as fat as equipment, which would be relevant when it comes to ow to wire it all up.
Actually, now that I think about it, do you have a Crown Boiler by any chance? Some brands have R-W-C terminals on the control boards in the boiler like you describe, and in that case, yes, the TT connections would be made to the R and W terminals there. C generally isn't used. And no, it doesn't matter which goes to which (R and W).
@@JerseyMikeHVAC
Thank!
Mine is a US Boiler Alta 150.
I called their tech line and they said the same. Use the R and W.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC But more and more the C wire is needed to power all these smart t-stats. Try getting a Nest to work without one. Not fun. Great explanation video for the zones though. Thanks.
Great video. I have a related question. I have three Honeywell zone valves with two wires going to each thermostat. I want to install a Wyze thermostat which requires a common. Luckily, I have three wires going from my thermostat to the zone valve, and the third was just tucked away. My problem is I don't know what to hook that wire to. I tried hooking it to the common which allowed the Wyze thermostat to power on, but as soon as it tried to call for heat, it would shut down. I guess this could be from the valve opening causing a voltage drop, but it happens before I even hear the relay click, which makes me think the wiring is wrong. Any ideas?
In other words, how do I supply a common wire to the t-stat from a zone valve system?
Are you going directly back to the common on the transformer or tying ot in with the W to common at the zone valve?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks for the reply! There are three zone valves, each with one of their yellow wires connected to the common from the transformer with a wire nut. That wire nut is where I connected my new common wire.
In other words, I am not going directly back to the transformer, but connecting to a wire nut that goes to the transformer as well as the other valves.
It's best to run it directly back to the transformer.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks, I’ll try that.
This way the thermostat are energized?. Or still need batteries to work?
Power will go to the stat, but you'd need a common wire to power it without the batteries.
Does anyone know how the C wire would be connected into this? I have the same exact wiring set up as this.
For a smart thermostat? It can be tied into the bundle of wires coming back from the W terminals from the thermostats just before returning to the transformer common, but it doesn't always work with some stats.
Do you have to turn off the breaker before doing all this?
Usually so long as the burner switch is in the off position, you're fine. But shutting the breaker off couldn't hurt.
I want to install Nest thermostats in 4 zone system that does not currently have the required "C" (blue?) wire connected. There are unused wires. Where do I connect the C in a multi-zone system? Can i connect all the C wires from the Nest thermostats together at this source?
It all goes back to a common terminal, typically on a transformer and in many cases multiple commons go back to the same place together.
Only issue you're likely to have is that Honeywell zone valves max out a 40va transformer after 4 or 5 zone valves (about 3 taco zone valves do the same). That probably isn't going to leave enough room to power 4 Nest thermostats.
You may have to add a second transformer and split the zone valves and Nests 2 and 2, instead of all 4 zones and thermostats on one.
Is there a higher capacity transformer I could swap out to keep it simple?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC
@mber57 A 60 va transformer will probably work.
Where would you connect the C wire to. Thanks
Always goes back to common on a transformer somewhere. I have videos on where the common is when hooking up smart stats.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
What's the "t and t "wire from the boiler? What's the full name?
T just stands for "thermostat" and there are always 2 connections for a thermostat going into the boiler, hence 2 Ts. There will always be two T wires or terminals that allows a control device to turn the boiler on and off.
These two Ts are opposite ends of the same circuit, which is the burner circuit. That includes all of the safeties like limit switches, spill switches, roll out switches, the gas valve, sometimes a vent damper, a spark ignition and control board, or sometimes a standing pilot with a thermocouple. But it's everything in one circuit the boiler needs to fire up.
When a connection is made from one T wire or terminal to the other T wire or terminal, the circuit is complete and the boiler fires up.
When that circuit is broken, the boiler shuts down.
On some boilers the thermostat is hooked directly up to these T and T wires. One from the thermostats R terminal and the other from the thermostats W terminal. So the thermostat itself becomes the on/off switch for that circuit.
On other boilers, such ad the type with zone valves, the thermostat only activates a motor in the zone valve, and there is a small switch inside called an "end switch" the motor activates when it is fully open. In that case the thermostat is still controlling the boiler, but not directly. The stat is just turning a motor on and off, and the motor opens and closes the end switch to turn the boiler on and off.
I have a motel with six valves with thermostats in each room. the boiler is at the end of room 1 where the transformer is for the power for the valve motor. the wire is ran from boiler to room 1 in series to room 6 with three wire thermostat wire, it has been this way for a long time but we had someone mess with the wiring and now trying to figure out how to fix it with only the three wires looks like i would need four with your drawings or how did they use three wires? Please help thanks in advance
Are they Honeywell Zone Valves (4 wire) or Taco 3-Wire zone valves?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC 4 wire honeywell
OK. Trying to get an idea of what arrangement you have there because it's not typical.
Tell me more about what you mean when you say the t-stats are wired in series. What connections are made at the thermostat terminals? Is common being used there?
i have a drawing i could send you that was left on the wall by the boiler just want to make sure it is correct
OK. I'll check it out now.
mjrusso@protonmail.com.
had a constant call for heat, re wired it like this and now theres no call for heat at all. woosah
What happened initially that lead to the constant call for heat?
Easiest part of the install lol
Ha. Yeah pretty much.
I need help with wiring, when you get time. Please, thanks
Responded to your comment on this on the other video thread.