Відео

should always break 120 volt wire, not neutral

I have an old Church and Rectory that has all Six light switches at the rear, where the Preist in the past would have been able to turn everything off when coming to and from the house. --- I'd like to use Relays and low Voltage wiring to create a few three-way switches without running hundreds of feet of 12-3 Romex. Thankfully, all the switches are Single Pole so that I don't have to mess with any existing three ways. Would you have any suggestions of what devices and wiring I could use to accomplish this goal?

Thanks for these tutorials man , make it perfectly clear to understand !

Maybe im overthinking, but outside of bleeding the air out of my zones, could i have air inside.the boiler itself, or does that bleed out on its own.....ill be replacing my low water sensor due to it leaking as well as the pressure relief valve this weekend, just want to ask so im aware of what to look for...thanks great video btw

Thank you so much learning a lot from you

Shouldn’t the thermostat be wired on the hot side of the zone valve rather than the common side?

Thanks Mike keep up the great work brother 👍🫡

Very straight forward, very understandable

My blue is going to RC with no C wire. R to R, Y to Y, G to W, W to G. My Red and Green are going to the furnace. White/Yellow/Blue to A/C unit. How can I pull a C? Jump ?

mike, I have a 30+ Y/O Coleman 3500 series furnace (15 KW, 3 elements) is it recommended to have the 3rd element on the W2 lead or just leave it in the original setup. I'm thinking efficiancy to help cut the costs in winter, if that does anything... does W1 and W2 on the thermostat work at the same time, or is there a temperature variable? I am using a NEST thermostat on my system.

deanmartin1966 said it all, Award winning presentation! Thank You, Mike

Simple, comprehensive, easy,clear... Got 100 %🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

God bless jersey🎉🎉🎉

If you're ever in long island, ill buy you a beer for this. Thanks for a freat video!

Just what I was looking for. Simple and to the point.

Haha yeah take them jumpers off and you cant polish a turd (old units ) mike 😂😂 Great work mike starting following you i like you content brother 👍

amazing go yankees

wow! i have a better understanding of a how cooling system sequence is..... thank you.

Nicely done.

Man I was waiting for this video for a long time and can’t appreciate you enough

You are awesome man

Man I appreciate it you are an awesome teacher

Man you are the best teacher

This is really good. Over the weekend i locked in and watched a bunch of these videos from your channel about the flow of power and could see it made such a difference in the general understanding of what we did out there today

You have a TALENT for teaching, this is exactly what i needed and I understood everything. Thank you so much bro!!

In the configuration shown, Y is jumped to G in the air handler. What prevents cooling from kicking on if you switch the stat to fan only? Seems to me it would close the circuit to Y in the air handler? Also, I am looking to connect my condensers to the load shed module in my generac standby generator transfer switch. I will break the red wire at the condenser where it connects to the contactor. I think this would shed only the condenser and not the air handler, correct? This video was very informative. Thank you.

Hello Mike! I just found this video. Excellent job! I have the exact same Goodman set up and card in my system. I've replaced the outside capacitor last year. I replaced the inside air handler capacitor this year and the DI-POLE BREAKER on the furnace which acts as a cut off for the unit instead of a door switch. One of the two pole breakers went squishy and wouldn't "click" over when switched. Now, my inside blower fan stopped working. Anyway, I did the entire diagnostic in reference to your video. . I checked the power up to the 240v side of the transformer and then direct charged the blower fan from there - it worked. So, I checked the 24v side of the transformer to the common on the control side of the board and got 24v as my reading. I decided to buy a new board for my system. However, I noticed a difference in your board and mine. Yours has a 3AMP fuse and mine doesn't. Would it be possible to just solder a fuse holder and fuse onto the contacts located just below what is labeled "JW1" on the board? Do i need this fuse? What is it protecting? Thanks man! You're the best HVAC guru on UA-cam!

hi, wanted to say that i've watched alot of your videos, very helpful & thanks alot for putting them out there. Some of them i had to watch a couple times to digest it. You explain things very well, not rushed or meandering around, good diagrams that are color coded to show the electrical flow. Ps - glad you don't use foul language and keep things decent!

Thank you straight to the point! I appreciate you!!!

Masterclass 🏆

Now that's a real tutorial. GOD Bless

I could literally cry. Thanks Jersey Mike 🏆

My ac went out. I have tested voltage at the tstat wires coming out of the wall and confirmed voltage there. I'm not getting voltage at control board for the ac when tstat is on. I'm also not getting low voltage at the contactor. Would the tranformer need replaced?

I’ve never learned so much in under 12 minutes, thank you!

So what would blow the low voltage fuse in heat mode but not in cool assuming no bad wires?

You the best mike.🎉

GR88888 VID 👍

Excellent video!

Great video. The little cameo Metaphor puns are distracting. Can you make this video again just alittle but slower and zoomed out?

Not sure how much longer i wouldve been looking around trying to fully grasp this if it wasn’t for this video. I think I can finally say I get it. Still so much more to learn but I get it! 🎉

Thanks helpful

Great video! Appreciate all the details!

Great info.,Mike. Thank you.

I recently had a Trane 2-Stage heat pump and Trane 2-Stage furnace installed. They are run thru a Honeywell HZ322 TrueZONE® to two Sensi Smart Thermostats (upper and lower zone). Both thermostats are wired with only RC, O/B, Y, G and W/E. My installer says both pieces of equipment "change stages automatically" and there is no need for the other connections. It was over 100F here and even though I could see stage changes on my HZ322, I could not hear any changes on the heat pump, nor did the unit demand more electricity. I don't believe my system is wired to work correctly. Suggestions?

I love your videos your doing a great job

I would give this videos 10 thumbs up if there is such option.

The best explanation of thermostat wiring. Thank you for educating me, Sir

I Watched 100 videos, I had headaches after all, this video is excellent!!!! They should pay you!! Thank you so very much!!!!

What a professional. True understanding of a heating system. I subscribed in hopes of contributing to the cost of the display.