I've been watching your videos for 11 years now. I wanted to say thank you for all of the work you've put in to make these videos. I didn't have a dad and never had anyone to show me how to work on anything, I had to figure it out myself. But you were like my UA-cam dad. I am proficient at working on many things now, but it started with me watching your videos. I learned so much from you and continue to learn from you. It took me a long time to understand how the heck you could be so patient when things didn't go well, but I know now being patient is the only way this work can be enjoyable. Thank you, you are awesome.
Yes. Sometimes (and often times) you need to step back and think. It will come to you. Been doing these things since the 70's, like Mustie has. He is a little better than I.
Has to be 10 or 11 years for me as well - I think i started watching when he rebuilt the Farmall tractor back in his home garage - he had me hooked right from that first time I watched - in the meantime I've rebuilt dozens of small engines, diesel generator, etc -- just nothing VW - they aren't popular in my area and there aren't really any around.
Hi Mustie from the UK, as for the switch with the ignition key the symbols H & S mean H for headlights and S for sidelights, the sidelights are the small ones on the wings/fender, normally used when parking at night, also on older British cars there was a foot operated switch near the pedals to put on the main beam/high beam, hope this helps.
At least over here in continental europe sidelights are a backup for your main headlights, so if one headlight fails oncoming traffic does not think you´re a motorbike.
@@daleburrell6273 Good guess, but no. Old MGs like this had a pull knob on the dashboard to operate the starting switch. I thought the same thing for a moment, even though I had an MGA that used the same kind of pull knob (that was at least also marked with an S on the end).
Hey Mustie! Long time subscriber here. My Sundays start with my first cup of coffee, my favorite chair, and the new Sunday Mustie1! HOWEVER, I know I speak for most of your viewers and probably 99% of your subscribers: We Love You Man! So take care of Mustie1 first and we will all be here for you when you are feeling better. Health first! Always! God's Speed!
Welcome back musty one so happy to see you back again doing what you do best I hope you had a decent vacation everybody needs one once in awhile I hope everybody's healthy wealthy and fine
We need to be a little more supportive of Mustie1. Everybody needs to hit the like button. He doesn’t ask. Come on, only one out of five gives a “thumbs up”. It’s the least you can do for a good friend.
Thank you! I really enjoyed this. Back in 1973 I got the same year and color of your car. The original engine had a bad crank shaft in it. The previous owner had replaced the engine and transmission with one from an Opal GT. It ran ok. Only paid $100.00 for it! O the good old days!. Didn’t keep it long as i was 19 at the time and wanted something with room for more people.
Welcome back Darren, I hope you're feeling better. Watching Mustie on a Sunday has become part of my weekend routine. When you were off, it gave me an excuse to watch some of my old favourites again. 👍🏴🙂
Welcome back Mustie, hope you are feeling better. Just wanted to share a trick my dad showed me a long time ago. A dab of Elmers white school glue on the washer and let it set for a minute will hold the washer to the screw to keep it from dropping off. It also acts as a weak loctite that is easy to bust loose with no problem.
Curious the difference in auto vernacular between our countries. I'm curious why it's "side" lights over there. Any explanations or lore would be a great thing if you wish to share.
I found this channel during Covid and have been hooked ever since, I was lucky I had a grandfather who was a model engineer so my brother and I learnt about steam etc, our father got us to take things apart to fix them and put them back together, we both did engineering apprenticeships for four years at the same company and I took up as a machine tool fitter and spent my working life stripping, repairing and installing machine tools, robots, industrial washing machines and all manner of equipment but in all that time you realise that you don't know it all and you will always learn and Mustie shows me other ways around a problem. I now have a five year old grandson who follows me around and is asking questions so maybe I can give him an interest.
Glad to see you back. I worry when I don’t see one of my favorite you tube shows. In my world of 74 plus years old , when you don’t hear from someone for two weeks it is not generally a good out come. Love your work ! I hope you are well
That rotor jogged a memory of mine from when I was a kid my uncle who was restoring a MG had the engine is his basement, my other uncle (dads brother) a mechanic and my father also a mechanic and a former RCAF electrical specialist WWii vet were arguing (over beers) when the spark plug would fire on the hockey stick shaped rotor tip at the start of the contact or the end. Just now sixty years later I realized they were both possibly wrong as the spark point would be when the points opened which could be at the mid point of contact.
Hey Darren, very happy to see you're back after a couple weeks! Cannot tell you how much I enjoy watching your videos. Side note: You mentioned a "comb" pick for that lock cylinder, but that wouldn't have done anything on a "wafer lock" such as that ignition. You really should pick up even a fairly cheap set of basic lock picks, or at least an assortment of tension bars and rakes. A rake is a bumpy flatbar, which will open basically any wafer lock in about a second. You obviously made due with what you had to work with, but a rake would've made that so much easier. The Combs are great for most of the awful locks MASTER makes, along with a few others. Thanks again for more than a decade of Sunday afternoon education and entertainment. I really can't express just how much I've learned watching your videos. Love you brother, stay healthy!
In the past, I had a spark plug mounted on a large aligator clip for testing spark. You could clip the test plug easily onto any protruding metal for testing purposes.
Welcome back sir and thank you for getting back to this project we can't wait to see this car driving around town keep up the amazing work six stars brother
I know some UA-camrs worry about the length of videos and pace. I love your videos! I find it very interesting and they bring me great joy and contentment. I just wish I could be with you to brainstorm or hold the light etc. Thanks for sharing!
The windshields (windscreens in Brit terminology) in these British sportscars were easily removeable for that "hairy-chested, bugs-in-your-teeth" experience. With the top entirely removed and the windshield off they could make much higher speed. Some had a "tonneau cover" that could be placed over the open body with the top off when parked. The snaps that fit ove the pegs are called "lift the dot" fasteners. They are also used on some marine applications. Since they were destined to the American market, most of the major fasteners were SAE standard, not Whitworth.
Hi Mustie, "CONGRATULATIONS" nice toy that you have there, several years ago I was playing with one of those exactly like that one, even was the same color, thanks you for sharing it with us, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
I worked in a "Foreign Car" shop (remember those?) in the mid- and late-seventies and was something of a British car specialist. This was a college town so lots of MGs, Triumphs, Sunbeams, and even the occasional Lotus. I still have my '72 Triumph that the mate and I drive on pretty weekend afternoons. Watching this brings back good memories of British autos and their many quirks and odd turns, and of a time when the most complex tool you needed was a timing light - no computers in sight. Glad to see you back on your feet, out and about as we say in the South!
S = sidelights. You have been supplied with the later points and condenser for the DM2 distributor which has a Vacuum advance. put a minute smear of grease on the cam and 2 drops of oil on the cam centre, under the rotor arm. Points gap is 15 thousandths of an inch. Check Firing order is 1342 not the Ford 1243. Check plug condition, Gap is 25 thou. Clean up or order up some new points for the pump. They are notoriously cantankerous though. Good luck! If carbs don't drip, leave well alone, they have cork jet seals. There are quite a few settings. Float height, needle height, dashpot location. 3 in 1 light oil in the dashpot dampers, around 5 SAE. As the carbs age, the Mazak alloy turns to powder and you could strip the float bowl spindle threads or the banjo bolt threads. There is only the one carb jet and it is cleared by the needle. The jet is lowered to supply a rich mixture.They have no choke butterfly. From memory, one fuse is for fuel gauge, wipers and horn, the other for sidelights. Ignition, dynamo, starter and fuel pump are unfused.
I just had a quick web search, apparently one of the fuses (terminals A1 - A2) does the horn only and the other does wipers and lights. The horn fuse is meant to be a 50 while the other one should be a 35. According to that source, those fuses used a weird rating system (giving what's called the fusing current, i.e. the current at which the fuse blows rather than the nominal current, which the fuse is supposed to hold forever) so if you replace them with modern US ones you should use 35 and 25 amps.
Good to see you back hope you are well I missed my Sunday watch the best thing about this one is the fact it's a great British classic Keep 'em Coming great to watch and learn.
I had a 1947 MGTC and did this exact job... except on the right side. I was able to save my master but the only way to change fluid in mine was to take the master off as all the gunk & junk can only come out by taking the master off and turning it upside down. Mine was almost as messy as this puppy. Over all an easy thing to work on and fun to drive as long as you don't go over 40KPH with those huge spoked wheels. That well in the back holds the side windows, the jack , OEM took kit and the motor hand crank. I only drove mine once with all the side glass and top up and man is it tight with no place for arms. Brits were tiny folks back in that day. Mine was built just a months after the end of WWII and was cream and green. A cool car but glad it has a new home as it was just a touch too old for me. Just for fun I also have a 1957 GMC and the master is also under foot. It is a pain to put fluid in that too. Bobby
Just finished the video of yours from 8 years ago about a honda you got from a garage sale. I know that mower and the issue wasn't the carb. There was a replacement on the governor spring becsuse of that surging issue. I bought the exact model you was working on for $15 non running and it was doing the same thing. Bought the spring and fixed the issue. I sold it for $160 and only put $25 into it. Fully serviced and being used til this day. Now off to our next mustie adventure!!!
Enjoying this video on every step, great work Darren, Ignition switch and light switch = S for side lights and H for head lights. Even my 1972 MG has different points sets depending on year and distributor type.
Good to see you back, Darren - and glad to see you continuing this British classic. Edit to add: IIRC, one fuse is for things needing power when the key is turned like wipers, the other fuse is for things that need power all the time like lights.
Couldn't you hear me screaming DON'T TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE NEW LOCK? Apparently it didn't send the springs and tumblers flying across the shop so all is well. The vinyl top looks much whiter in the shop, maybe just the lighting or the carpet cleaner actually worked. This car is in amazing condition for its age. Love the content.
Hot damn, your back. Glad you are feeling better. You were missed. And the teeth on the key point up, so the pins in the ignition switch hang down. Take care and have a good day.
It looks a decent little car ,definitely be fun when she's running 😊 MG have always been pretty stylish to me anyway, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I read a book in grade school about a young guy and his mentor bringing a MG TC back to life, and going racing. That planted the romance of these little buggies in me. As I'm watching you wash it, it strikes me as way more like a boat or bike as you wash the dash.
Nice MG! Factory was POSITIVE ground, 12v. @14:26 Driver's door doesn't drop an inch when unlatched so you can scratch replacing door wood off the list (with a huge sigh of relief). Be careful with those doors and never put weight on the hinges. The switches on most English cars have "S" for park lights and "H" for the main headlights. It's 12 volt and no relays so there is a lot of current running through those headlight wires. Whenever I rebuild an entire brake system like this I've found it's best to convert it to Dot 5 silicone fluid. The purple stuff is so inert it lasts decades of storage which is perfect for an infrequently used car like this one. I got tired of replacing Dot 3 damage and began converting all of mine 20 years ago.
Definitely takes a talented mechanic. Ya got close. Lots to chase down. This car and the 3.8 4 door jag we my two favorite cars. Almost had one of these in a trade when I was in my teens! Probably good that I didn't lol!
As an owner of a 53 TD, I must say that this is the cleanest, most rust free example I have seen. The TD is a hoot to drive and surprisingly dependable. First gear is so low, it is only good for pulling tree stumps. Don't lean on the door when it is open!! It is a beautiful car that epitomizes the period and, were it not for the potential gas bomb on the back bumper, it would be almost perfect. You and Moss Motors in California are going to be great friends!
Just started watching this video, Darren and have to say "Welcome back"! I hope your health is on the improve. And I'm looking forward to more work on this very interesting automobile. Cheers.
Great to see you, and giving TLC to the MG. Remember the TC and TD models when new. Simple and fun to drive. Same colour as my Riley Lynx 1933 disappearing hood model. Riley in my view, built to a a superior standard than the pre war MG cars;TB etc. All are much cherished here in the UK. Great car clubs too. We would welcome you to the Rally events should you pay us a visit. Best wishes from the UK.
I've been watching your videos for 11 years now. I wanted to say thank you for all of the work you've put in to make these videos. I didn't have a dad and never had anyone to show me how to work on anything, I had to figure it out myself. But you were like my UA-cam dad. I am proficient at working on many things now, but it started with me watching your videos. I learned so much from you and continue to learn from you. It took me a long time to understand how the heck you could be so patient when things didn't go well, but I know now being patient is the only way this work can be enjoyable.
Thank you, you are awesome.
Being patient is the only way you can avoid breaking things. When it starts to get a bit much then walk away.
Great testimony Sam
Yes. Sometimes (and often times) you need to step back and think. It will come to you. Been doing these things since the 70's, like Mustie has. He is a little better than I.
Has to be 10 or 11 years for me as well - I think i started watching when he rebuilt the Farmall tractor back in his home garage - he had me hooked right from that first time I watched - in the meantime I've rebuilt dozens of small engines, diesel generator, etc -- just nothing VW - they aren't popular in my area and there aren't really any around.
@@jlucasound you have to eat the elephant one bite at a time.
Welcome back Mustie!
Glad your back, Mustie. Sunday morning isn't the same without your content.
Nice to see you back. I hope you’re feeling better.
Great to have you Back Mr Mustie 👍
Hi Mustie from the UK, as for the switch with the ignition key the symbols H & S mean H for headlights and S for sidelights, the sidelights are the small ones on the wings/fender, normally used when parking at night, also on older British cars there was a foot operated switch near the pedals to put on the main beam/high beam, hope this helps.
...I guessed that "S" was for "START"-(?)
At least over here in continental europe sidelights are a backup for your main headlights, so if one headlight fails oncoming traffic does not think you´re a motorbike.
@@daleburrell6273 Good guess, but no. Old MGs like this had a pull knob on the dashboard to operate the starting switch. I thought the same thing for a moment, even though I had an MGA that used the same kind of pull knob (that was at least also marked with an S on the end).
I was guessing signal lights. I wasn’t far off
Hope you are feeling better! Love this channel, learned so much over the years.
Hey Mustie! Long time subscriber here. My Sundays start with my first cup of coffee, my favorite chair, and the new Sunday Mustie1! HOWEVER, I know I speak for most of your viewers and probably 99% of your subscribers: We Love You Man! So take care of Mustie1 first and we will all be here for you when you are feeling better. Health first! Always! God's Speed!
Welcome back musty one so happy to see you back again doing what you do best I hope you had a decent vacation everybody needs one once in awhile I hope everybody's healthy wealthy and fine
glad Mustie is back. Of course your health comes first, but you have been missed. I have learned a lot from you. Stay healthy and keep wrenching 😊
British car, British engineering, British weather; What more could one ask for ? Many happy returns !
That's gonna be such a sweet little car when Mustie finishes! Gotta love the joy and satisfaction he shows while washing her for the first time.
Steve! Your contribution is now part of this restoration! Lucky Dog!! Thanks, man!
Good to see Mustie is back. Thanks for a all your videos, I learn something from each one!
Thanks!
Mustie1, you are a part of my regular Sunday afternoon routine. Great to have you back!
We need to be a little more supportive of Mustie1. Everybody needs to hit the like button. He doesn’t ask. Come on, only one out of five gives a “thumbs up”.
It’s the least you can do for a good friend.
Mrs Mustie best keep an eye on you!
Megga thanks for making a video Mustie, Made me & thousands of other fans happy today.. Hope feeling better these days..
So Happy your back, hope your getting healthier by the day, God blees the Mustie man and thanks for all you do.
Good morning buddy hope you're feeling better 😊 thanks for sharing 👍
Great video! Always fun watching you work on these old cars and things.
That is a seriously beautiful little car...
Have always loved that body style
Glad to see you back in action. All the best.
I was concerned when I hadn't seen you in weeks and it made me realize how much I wait for your videos. Glad you have you back!
Thank you! I really enjoyed this.
Back in 1973 I got the same year and color of your car. The original engine had a bad crank shaft in it.
The previous owner had replaced the engine and transmission with one from an Opal GT.
It ran ok. Only paid $100.00 for it! O the good old days!.
Didn’t keep it long as i was 19 at the time and wanted something with room for more people.
Welcome back Darren, I hope you're feeling better. Watching Mustie on a Sunday has become part of my weekend routine. When you were off, it gave me an excuse to watch some of my old favourites again. 👍🏴🙂
Welcome back Mustie, hope you are feeling better. Just wanted to share a trick my dad showed me a long time ago. A dab of Elmers white school glue on the washer and let it set for a minute will hold the washer to the screw to keep it from dropping off. It also acts as a weak loctite that is easy to bust loose with no problem.
Greetings from the far side of the pond, where that beautiful car was born. Over here 'tail lights' are called 'side' lights, hence "S" on the switch.
I came here to say this.
@@sargentcolon2323 Me too!
Oh, I thought the s was for the snails over there: so all the snails could say "look at that s-car-go."
I know that was bad but you started it.
I was also going to say that, does the car have a foot switch for high beam and dip headlights.
Curious the difference in auto vernacular between our countries. I'm curious why it's "side" lights over there. Any explanations or lore would be a great thing if you wish to share.
I've watched a long time, encouraged to start a Wednesday rescue repair channel Dunno if anyone would watch but you've inspired me. Thanks Mustie1!
Good to see you back, Mustie! 😊
Who I was looking at the milk carton if I saw your face on it saying missing.. I'm glad your back brother.. glad you're back
It's great to have you back
The first MG midget engine I ever rebuilt was back in 1973. Such a fun little car to drive! Thanks for sharing your video with us!
I love the longer video’s. So glad you’re back and healthy Mustie.
I found this channel during Covid and have been hooked ever since, I was lucky I had a grandfather who was a model engineer so my brother and I learnt about steam etc, our father got us to take things apart to fix them and put them back together, we both did engineering apprenticeships for four years at the same company and I took up as a machine tool fitter and spent my working life stripping, repairing and installing machine tools, robots, industrial washing machines and all manner of equipment but in all that time you realise that you don't know it all and you will always learn and Mustie shows me other ways around a problem. I now have a five year old grandson who follows me around and is asking questions so maybe I can give him an interest.
Glad to see your back ! This mg looks exactly like the 45 in the movie " back to school" with R . Dangerfield ....triple Lindy anyone :)
What a lovely old car and thanks for the video on this lovely old British car
Just had an earthquake here in Montreal, a 4.0 according to the USGC. But that won’t stop me from watching Mustie1 on a Sunday morning. 🇨🇦👍🤣
Yeah he. Has his earth shaking repairs
4.8 centered in Drummondville
What time did it happen?
Really?!
Japan, California, now it’s your turn…😉😬✌️🇺🇸🇨🇦✌️Greetings from Southern California.
Glad to see you back. I worry when I don’t see one of my favorite you tube shows. In my world of 74 plus years old , when you don’t hear from someone for two weeks it is not generally a good out come. Love your work ! I hope you are well
Takes me back, thanks. When we replaced brake shoes we put a small filed champher on the leading edges. Ah, heady days!
This is one of my favorite videos by Mustie! Thank you sir!
That rotor jogged a memory of mine from when I was a kid my uncle who was restoring a MG had the engine is his basement, my other uncle (dads brother) a mechanic and my father also a mechanic and a former RCAF electrical specialist WWii vet were arguing (over beers) when the spark plug would fire on the hockey stick shaped rotor tip at the start of the contact or the end. Just now sixty years later I realized they were both possibly wrong as the spark point would be when the points opened which could be at the mid point of contact.
Nice to have you back. My first car was a 52 MGTD . Bought it for $75 , in 1968. The engine was blown . What a fun car
Good to see you again hope you are feeling better
Hey Darren, very happy to see you're back after a couple weeks! Cannot tell you how much I enjoy watching your videos. Side note: You mentioned a "comb" pick for that lock cylinder, but that wouldn't have done anything on a "wafer lock" such as that ignition. You really should pick up even a fairly cheap set of basic lock picks, or at least an assortment of tension bars and rakes. A rake is a bumpy flatbar, which will open basically any wafer lock in about a second. You obviously made due with what you had to work with, but a rake would've made that so much easier. The Combs are great for most of the awful locks MASTER makes, along with a few others.
Thanks again for more than a decade of Sunday afternoon education and entertainment. I really can't express just how much I've learned watching your videos. Love you brother, stay healthy!
I love it when he giggles every time a motor kicks over. I'll bet he does that when his electric toothbrush starts up too!
Glad to have you back on. Sunday mornings are just not the same without a Mustie video!
Said it before, you, sir, are a MAGICIAN!!
In the past, I had a spark plug mounted on a large aligator clip for testing spark. You could clip the test plug easily onto any protruding metal for testing purposes.
Welcome back sir and thank you for getting back to this project we can't wait to see this car driving around town keep up the amazing work six stars brother
So glad to see you hope you are well!
I know some UA-camrs worry about the length of videos and pace. I love your videos! I find it very interesting and they bring me great joy and contentment. I just wish I could be with you to brainstorm or hold the light etc. Thanks for sharing!
The windshields (windscreens in Brit terminology) in these British sportscars were easily removeable for that "hairy-chested, bugs-in-your-teeth" experience. With the top entirely removed and the windshield off they could make much higher speed. Some had a "tonneau cover" that could be placed over the open body with the top off when parked. The snaps that fit ove the pegs are called "lift the dot" fasteners. They are also used on some marine applications. Since they were destined to the American market, most of the major fasteners were SAE standard, not Whitworth.
Hi Mustie, "CONGRATULATIONS" nice toy that you have there, several years ago I was playing with one of those exactly like that one, even was the same color, thanks you for sharing it with us, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
Mustie 1 "Lets Wrench " Glad your Back. God Bless
I worked in a "Foreign Car" shop (remember those?) in the mid- and late-seventies and was something of a British car specialist. This was a college town so lots of MGs, Triumphs, Sunbeams, and even the occasional Lotus. I still have my '72 Triumph that the mate and I drive on pretty weekend afternoons. Watching this brings back good memories of British autos and their many quirks and odd turns, and of a time when the most complex tool you needed was a timing light - no computers in sight. Glad to see you back on your feet, out and about as we say in the South!
That you got those master cylinder bolts to break loose is nothing short of stupendous.
This is a great project and a lovely car. I can't wait for those parts to arrive and, for the next episode.
Good to see you back.
Your back Mustie!!
Nice to have you back Mustie , you were greatly missed. Sunday coffee with Mustie has restored order.
S = sidelights. You have been supplied with the later points and condenser for the DM2 distributor which has a Vacuum advance. put a minute smear of grease on the cam and 2 drops of oil on the cam centre, under the rotor arm. Points gap is 15 thousandths of an inch. Check Firing order is 1342 not the Ford 1243. Check plug condition, Gap is 25 thou. Clean up or order up some new points for the pump. They are notoriously cantankerous though. Good luck! If carbs don't drip, leave well alone, they have cork jet seals. There are quite a few settings. Float height, needle height, dashpot location. 3 in 1 light oil in the dashpot dampers, around 5 SAE. As the carbs age, the Mazak alloy turns to powder and you could strip the float bowl spindle threads or the banjo bolt threads. There is only the one carb jet and it is cleared by the needle. The jet is lowered to supply a rich mixture.They have no choke butterfly. From memory, one fuse is for fuel gauge, wipers and horn, the other for sidelights. Ignition, dynamo, starter and fuel pump are unfused.
Re fuses we used to put a piece of silver foil from a cigarette packet across the two fuses then you could start it without an ignition key!
I just had a quick web search, apparently one of the fuses (terminals A1 - A2) does the horn only and the other does wipers and lights. The horn fuse is meant to be a 50 while the other one should be a 35. According to that source, those fuses used a weird rating system (giving what's called the fusing current, i.e. the current at which the fuse blows rather than the nominal current, which the fuse is supposed to hold forever) so if you replace them with modern US ones you should use 35 and 25 amps.
A great start to a wonderful Sunday on a holiday weekend! Happy to have a new Mustie 1 video to begin the day - his videos are the best on UA-cam.
Mustie1 is back!
Glad to see your back and feeling better Darren and I always love how you talk to us in the videos it makes me feel right at home ❤😊
Cotter pin in UK is called a split pin
Good to see you back hope you are well I missed my Sunday watch the best thing about this one is the fact it's a great British classic Keep 'em Coming great to watch and learn.
I had a 1947 MGTC and did this exact job... except on the right side. I was able to save my master but the only way to change fluid in mine was to take the master off as all the gunk & junk can only come out by taking the master off and turning it upside down. Mine was almost as messy as this puppy. Over all an easy thing to work on and fun to drive as long as you don't go over 40KPH with those huge spoked wheels. That well in the back holds the side windows, the jack , OEM took kit and the motor hand crank. I only drove mine once with all the side glass and top up and man is it tight with no place for arms. Brits were tiny folks back in that day. Mine was built just a months after the end of WWII and was cream and green. A cool car but glad it has a new home as it was just a touch too old for me. Just for fun I also have a 1957 GMC and the master is also under foot. It is a pain to put fluid in that too. Bobby
Just finished the video of yours from 8 years ago about a honda you got from a garage sale. I know that mower and the issue wasn't the carb. There was a replacement on the governor spring becsuse of that surging issue. I bought the exact model you was working on for $15 non running and it was doing the same thing. Bought the spring and fixed the issue. I sold it for $160 and only put $25 into it. Fully serviced and being used til this day. Now off to our next mustie adventure!!!
We call "grease fittings," "grease nipples."
Seriously.
That's what we call them.
🇬🇧
Our language, our rules...
😊
Thank you for going above and beyond for our entertainment. Hope your health bounces back my friend !
Enjoying this video on every step, great work Darren, Ignition switch and light switch = S for side lights and H for head lights. Even my 1972 MG has different points sets depending on year and distributor type.
Sorry for the health problems you've had to deal with, but glad you're able to make videos again. I love watching all the videos you put out.
So good to see you this week. I hope you’re on the mend. You are a highlight of my week and I’ve learned so much from you. Take care.
Good to see you back, Darren - and glad to see you continuing this British classic.
Edit to add: IIRC, one fuse is for things needing power when the key is turned like wipers, the other fuse is for things that need power all the time like lights.
pretty fun little project! glad you were feeling better to get some more content out. Happy to have whatever you put out. Thanks Mustie!
thanks Darren for bringing us along, really enjoyed it, hope you a feeling better. take care eh!
Glad to have you back; it's interesting to see how different the British cars of that vintage were.
Couldn't you hear me screaming DON'T TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE NEW LOCK?
Apparently it didn't send the springs and tumblers flying across the shop so all is well.
The vinyl top looks much whiter in the shop, maybe just the lighting or the carpet cleaner actually worked.
This car is in amazing condition for its age.
Love the content.
Whitewalls on a classic MG would be a very American thing to do ;-) Great to see you back.
Hot damn, your back. Glad you are feeling better. You were missed. And the teeth on the key point up, so the pins in the ignition switch hang down. Take care and have a good day.
It looks a decent little car ,definitely be fun when she's running 😊 MG have always been pretty stylish to me anyway, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Good to see you wrenchin' on stuff Darren. Hope you're feeling better! Cheers! Todd the retired trucker.
I read a book in grade school about a young guy and his mentor bringing a MG TC back to life, and going racing. That planted the romance of these little buggies in me. As I'm watching you wash it, it strikes me as way more like a boat or bike as you wash the dash.
Great to see you back, awesome to see you worked on this neat car! You just made my week!!
Great to see you back Mustie !
Hell of a job and excellent, you'll get done! It's a beautiful car and fun to drive, can't wait looking forward to it.
Welcome back good to see you are feeling better and great content the top looks a lot better after the cleaning
Missed you old friend. Great to see your back.
Nice MG! Factory was POSITIVE ground, 12v. @14:26 Driver's door doesn't drop an inch when unlatched so you can scratch replacing door wood off the list (with a huge sigh of relief). Be careful with those doors and never put weight on the hinges. The switches on most English cars have "S" for park lights and "H" for the main headlights. It's 12 volt and no relays so there is a lot of current running through those headlight wires. Whenever I rebuild an entire brake system like this I've found it's best to convert it to Dot 5 silicone fluid. The purple stuff is so inert it lasts decades of storage which is perfect for an infrequently used car like this one. I got tired of replacing Dot 3 damage and began converting all of mine 20 years ago.
Missed you. Glad you are up and about.
Darren, glad you’re back and feeling better. I’m sure you’ll get the MG 🇬🇧 running once you get all the parts delivered.
Welcome back! And good luck with that Lucas (Prince of Darkness) electrical system.
Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Welcome back! Such a great car! Can't wait to see it scooting around!!
Definitely takes a talented mechanic. Ya got close. Lots to chase down. This car and the 3.8 4 door jag we my two favorite cars. Almost had one of these in a trade when I was in my teens! Probably good that I didn't lol!
As an owner of a 53 TD, I must say that this is the cleanest, most rust free example I have seen. The TD is a hoot to drive and surprisingly dependable. First gear is so low, it is only good for pulling tree stumps. Don't lean on the door when it is open!! It is a beautiful car that epitomizes the period and, were it not for the potential gas bomb on the back bumper, it would be almost perfect. You and Moss Motors in California are going to be great friends!
It seems dependable to me. I'd count on it not running any day of the week.
For me this is your best project to date but then I've always loved these cars
Happy to see you are better, hope everything is going well for you and your family, God bless and have a great day
thank you mustie I have learned so much over the last 10 years or so from you :)
Just started watching this video, Darren and have to say "Welcome back"! I hope your health is on the improve. And I'm looking forward to more work on this very interesting automobile. Cheers.
Darren, by the look of it, the new points kit is for a distributor with vacuum advance mechanism.
Great to see you, and giving TLC to the MG. Remember the TC and TD models when new. Simple and fun to drive. Same colour as my Riley Lynx 1933 disappearing hood model. Riley in my view, built to a a superior standard than the pre war MG cars;TB etc. All are much cherished here in the UK. Great car clubs too. We would welcome you to the Rally events should you pay us a visit. Best wishes from the UK.