I know this video was done eight years ago but you showed me something that I needed to know on a 1980 Ford courier 2.0 engine. Thank you sir. I am in America and nobody has a video that shows anything like this until now.
Changed the valve stem seals on my 3.0 Capri and oh my god what a difference it made, it used to drink oil now it burns none at all, spark plugs are way cleaner now too ofcourse!
Well very good video, but i want to add a litlle detail about oil seal, if someone install a new set its better to locate a litlle bit vaseline in the top of the edge valve to insert the new seal smooth without to hurt it, maybe it sounds exaggeration....but sometimes you ll never know.....
I recall an engine we rebuilt and bored. Couldn't find the valve seals at the time and the car was on the clock, so we did everything except them: We got a puff of blue smoke every time we hit the gas pedal hard. Good video, especially the last bits where you don't just edit out the trouble you had reinstalling: That merely says "if you have this trouble, you're probably not doing it wrong".
Brilliant vid'! You can do this without a compressor, take the plug out, and feed either 16mm polyprop, or sash cord, into the piston chamber through the plug hole at BDC, then rotate the engine to TDC, which will crush the rope and stop the valve from moving, you can then compress the valve spring. Watch out for the pinging though, those collets have been trying to escape for years. I draped a cloth over when I first compressed the spring. I just did this on my TD04 converted Miata.
Cheers Adrian. Yep the rope method will work if you can't get your hands on a compressor. Never tried it, but by all accounts works just as well. Thanks for the feedback. What ECU are you using in the Miata? I'm after a unit for mine but can't decide! Cheers. James.
I need to do this and i have made my mind in using the rope method,id rather have something with atoms underneath those valves that invisible force,lol,im one of those that if i went skydiving there would be a problem, even with the reserve chute so I'm always very cautious, ive learned my lesson years ago.
Even when glued in place they're still easy to remove. Obviously it takes a little more force to pop them off the valve guide, but they do come off no problem. Still, I wouldn't recommend glueing them unless you have the exact problem I had.
@@FastRust I did my aprenticship with a ford main dealer from 1970 to 75, and we used thin rope to stop valves dropping, have used compressor as well in later years, good work and good video
Love the vid mate, got a cb900 bike That needs new valve seals but getting head set is difficult enough but to be able to do the job like you've just done.. BRILLIANT
Colorado, USA here. Are you in Free Ireland or "captured" Ireland ? I will be doing the seals replacement on a 1993 Chevy K-2500 extended cab pick up with 191,000 plus miles. Previous owner said the engine was low on coolant so things got a little hot in the heads. I have air and the other tools to do this. I had seen other vids but the care you demonstrated in removing and reinstalling components is a bit more detailed than what I saw in those other vids. I made notes to remind me these things. Finally, let people know to put the cotters/retainer bits back in the valve slots taper side down to insure positive engagement to the spring caps. I will use the "bopper" and socket method as you have. Cheers Mate ! God Bless Rory Gallagher ! :-)
I just did valve seals on my 73 Pinto 2.0 . Valve seal #1,2,3 and 4 with that tool Rust shows here in his video, THAT TOOL IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. Got one on Amazon for like $25.00, Valve seal #5,6,7 and 8 I did a week ago with a rental clamping tool from the auto part store, Boy that tool is a pain in ass to get it done. I also used the rental clamping tool 2 yrs yrs ago on my 72 pinto. freekin nightmare to use and takes WAAAAAY more time. Buy the tool that Rust is showing here. Also get the one that has that adjusting arm and you can clear the Carb on #4 Valve when you change the arm angle. It seemed easy if you start with the part of the tool that sits on the spring first, then get the hooks over the cam. I also fed rope through a straw to hold up the valves, Take off the followers first to make it easy, I'd get the piston up to TDC then back it down like 1-2 inch, then feed the rope in till full, then crank the piston up on the rope to push the valve up, a few times the cam lobe would be going down making it hard to get the follower off. SO, Take the followers off first to make it easy,
Great video and details, much appreciated! Finally I'm about to tackle this on my consul, I don't seem to find that valve guide line, whats the correct name to search for it?
Thank you so much IV got really loads of blue smoke on me 1.6 Capri 1981 think IV over filled the oil and IV realised IV put 5/40 oil not 20/50. The Capri has been standing for 5 years in the dry garage.
I’ve done this job with the engine in the car after a valve spring broke. I get a length of 30 amp three core electric cable, curved it sideways and poked it in the spark plug hole so it went beneath the affected valve. I then rotated the engine to trap the cable between the piston and the valve, so the valve wouldn’t open. I then removed the broken spring. Using a lever I was able to compress and refit a new spring.
@@FastRust I think what I'm gonna do is just pull a used head with good valves and springs still in it, put the new seals on that head, then just take a 3 day weekend and swap heads.
Usual stuff. Blue smoke on first start up, blue smoke on decel. Blue smoke if you give it a rev after its been a while idling.. all fixed with new seals
Seems this could be my problem,iv got a mk6 golf R recently mapped,wen i put my foot down I’ll get a little bit of blue/gray smoke,not all the time tho,and sometimes wen I’m coming to a stop either roundabout or traffic lights it will sometimes let out some more of the same colour smoke,mainly wen I’m about to pall of,from another video i just watched it sounds like the stem seals,but apparently it can also be pistons,but the other video it said if it was the pistons it would smoke all the time witch it doesn’t,I’m going to change the PCV for the hell of it even tho a genuine one from VW was only fitted 4 months ago,I thought at first it was the seal in my turbo so i brought a new one,but since changing the turbo it don’t smoke as much as it did,maybe it’s just me on that,but my problem might be this,question is as iv no knowledge on this,if your in there changing stem seals is it worth changing the pistons as well?
If you haven't got a compressor. I use poly rope feed it thru the spark plug hole and bring the piston to tdc. This compresses the rope and holds the valve up
Awesome! I need to do this with my ford transit mk2, it has the same engine, i hoop i can do it in the car. As the heater inlet is in the way. I think it happens with the 4th cilinder because it gets the hottest of al due to it being the furthest away from radiator and also wind Cooling!
The thought had crossed my mind. I still have the issue to this day although last one that popped off was no.2. Always exhaust side though. Good luck getting yours done 👍🏻
Awesome video! I have the same engine Could you please write the name of the air compressor to spark plug hose/connector? Or even a link if possible. Cant seem to be able to find it anywhere.
I put the piston at TDC then backed it down a little, Then fed like 8' of thin rope through a drinking straw into the spark plug hole. Then brought piston back up till it stopped moving, Got them all done that way. No more oil burning now.
I dropped one of my hex bits into the spark plug hole.....still figuring out how to retrieve it without removing the head 😢😢😢..... the magnet tool i have is too big....the VW Polos have narrow spark plugs and holes.....any ideas without removing head?..... i cant find a small enough magnet anywhere
@@babelonchabalala1690 - I know someone sales a small pencil sized retractable magnet. You may want to check with Harbor Freight. However, I’m not sure if the magnet is strong enough to lift a socket. ????
Would it work on a diesel if I bring the piston to top dead centre and use the flat top of the piston to ensure that the valve does not drop? At TDC, the clearance between the underside of the head and the top of the piston is very little indeed and although the valve will drop a little, it would not be much. I have an air compressor but I do not have a fitting to deliver air to the combustion chamber through the injector tubes. The engine is a Volvo marine diesel, the MD17C (the MD17D is very similar). If I could manage to change the valve seals without lifting the heads it would save a massive amount of work, and expense. Thanks.
I've often wondered whether it would work this way. The only issue I can see is that the valve drops so you get coil bind compressing the spring before the keepers can be removed. I'd be tempted to use the rope method if you can't use compressed air. Feed rope into the cylinder then bring the piston up to squash it under the valve.
Awesome video thank you have to do these on my tiger kit car with the pinto found all the stuff you used apart from the air line im struggling to find what should i search to find one thank you
I am going to replace the valve stem seals on my Toyota 2azfe with the engine on the car using this method. I will attempt to do this without letting the timing chain come off of the crank sprocket so I don't have to drop the oil pan just to put it back on. I will do my best to secure the chain in place while removing the cam sprockets. This means I will have to avoid turning the engine/crank shaft. With the timing marks aligned prior to removing the cam sprockets, Cylinders 1 and 4 will be set to top dead center while 2 and 3 will be at the bottom. My concern is, will I be able to pressurize cylinders 2 and 3 while they are on bottom position to prevent the valves from dropping in?
Handy Daddy If both valves are closed and you can maintain around 70 -80 psi in the cylinder, I see no reason why the valves should fall in, regardless of piston position. It may just take longer to get 2 & 3 up to pressure being that the volume inside the cylinder is larger. Having said that, I’ve never done it this way! If you’re worried you could always use the stuff-rope-into-the-cylinder method, just to be extra careful. Don’t forget to stick it in gear.
Hey Fast Rust, is it important to use that little see through plastic protector sleeve that fits on the valve while installing the new seal? The last time I did seals the kit didn't come with that. I just toss them on with the lock tight and some grease around valve seal hole.
I fit a thin drinking straw over the valve stem with a bit of oil....those grooves on the valve stem that hold the cotters(keepers)....they could damage the new seal when u slide it over those grooves....after installed i just pull out the straw again
I don't get a puff of blue smoke when I start the motor but I do when it has been idling and I rev it, for instance sitting at the lights and then driving off. Would that also be valve stem seals or is it something else?
With 8 valves I reckon I could do all the seals this way in about 3 to 4 hours. Of course if you have 16 it could easily be more like 5 to 6 hours. Either way it's quicker than removing the head, which could take you best part of a day maybe longer. Doing it this way you don't have to deal with timing belt, draining the coolant, removing the exhaust, replacing the head gasket etc etc.
Bought a beautiful 2006 Nissan Altima. Ran nice but smoked a lot at start up. Started to change the Valve seals. Found a valve that must have had a stem half the size. Of the bore. With 225 k on the car I decided to order one of the Japonese imported engines.
It's not classic stem seal symtoms to be honest. But if you're burning oil, it's one of the simpler things to rule out, so would still recommend checking them.
@@shadeauto3373 turned out to be the stem valve seals, cots me 1200 to get it fixed with a new timing chain too, it has been 14 months now with no problems
Because there is a gap between the piston and valve. Not a lot in some engines but it's there. If you let the valve drop down a little bit, you wouldn't be able to compress the spring enough to get the keepers back in the valve grooves. The air keeps the valve fully closed and extended fully so you have to compress the spring the least amount possible. If you have the head off the vehicle, the tool clamps on the top of the spring and the underside of the valve.
soch does not mean that you cant have 16 valves per 4 silinder. Sohs is only for single cam meaning. and one cam can still drive 4 valves. But usually yes, sohsh is easier since it wont cover valves itself. In doch setup you propably need to remove cams to work on seals.
@@FastRust No smoke when launching it, I tested that when you told me to :) Also, when I start the car when it's been sitting for days, it fires right up quick, but when I drive around shopping here and there throughout the day, when leaving a store, I have to crank it for like 7-8 seconds for it to start if the visit to the store is quick. That's weird.
the tool needed to be rotated 90º, in order to have 2 sides (left and right) to insert the 2 keepers; the way it is ,you only have the front... but i guess there is no room for leverage.
It's not the most well designed tool to be honest, but it is cheap. The price of the tools (minus the compressor), works out at a similar price to a new head gasket & bolts, so it's not a bad option in that respect.
Actually I have more than 10 years as a mechanic ASE Certified. My comment was because there are modern engines like VVT-I and VTEC. Another thing, I was just joking. I like this video, he did a good job. Can you take a joke, are you a red head chick..?
I have to admit, I didn't like the comment about the Titanic engine much either but after owning a Mk3 Cortina 2.0 GT back in the 80's and currently owning a Mk3 Cortina 1.6 XL I have to say that my 10 year old Toyota 1.3 VVTi outperforms both of them. Still love Pinto SOHC engines though. So simple to work on and you do not need a laptop to diagnose any problems with them.
Want to know how to replace a timing/cam belt on one of these engines? Click this link:
ua-cam.com/video/0X_o59Mz96Y/v-deo.html
I know this video was done eight years ago but you showed me something that I needed to know on a 1980 Ford courier 2.0 engine. Thank you sir. I am in America and nobody has a video that shows anything like this until now.
Great to hear. Still one of the channel's most viewed videos so it must have some relevance still. Thanks!
Changed the valve stem seals on my 3.0 Capri and oh my god what a difference it made, it used to drink oil now it burns none at all, spark plugs are way cleaner now too ofcourse!
+Capri Driver Yea it's suprising how much oil you'll get through if these seals are shot. Nice one.
Well very good video, but i want to add a litlle detail about oil seal, if someone install a new set its better to locate a litlle bit vaseline in the top of the edge valve to insert the new seal smooth without to hurt it, maybe it sounds exaggeration....but sometimes you ll never know.....
I recall an engine we rebuilt and bored. Couldn't find the valve seals at the time and the car was on the clock, so we did everything except them: We got a puff of blue smoke every time we hit the gas pedal hard. Good video, especially the last bits where you don't just edit out the trouble you had reinstalling: That merely says "if you have this trouble, you're probably not doing it wrong".
Brilliant vid'!
You can do this without a compressor, take the plug out, and feed either 16mm polyprop, or sash cord, into the piston chamber through the plug hole at BDC, then rotate the engine to TDC, which will crush the rope and stop the valve from moving, you can then compress the valve spring.
Watch out for the pinging though, those collets have been trying to escape for years.
I draped a cloth over when I first compressed the spring.
I just did this on my TD04 converted Miata.
Cheers Adrian. Yep the rope method will work if you can't get your hands on a compressor. Never tried it, but by all accounts works just as well. Thanks for the feedback. What ECU are you using in the Miata? I'm after a unit for mine but can't decide! Cheers. James.
I need to do this and i have made my mind in using the rope method,id rather have something with atoms underneath those valves that invisible force,lol,im one of those that if i went skydiving there would be a problem, even with the reserve chute so I'm always very cautious, ive learned my lesson years ago.
@@dntlss I want to see him remove one that’s been Worked on you before where they’re glued in place?
Even when glued in place they're still easy to remove. Obviously it takes a little more force to pop them off the valve guide, but they do come off no problem. Still, I wouldn't recommend glueing them unless you have the exact problem I had.
@@FastRust I did my aprenticship with a ford main dealer from 1970 to 75, and we used thin rope to stop valves dropping, have used compressor as well in later years, good work and good video
One of the best video I have seen after long time. Thank you sir! 👏 the detail (mind blowing)
Love the vid mate, got a cb900 bike
That needs new valve seals but getting head set is difficult enough but to be able to do the job like you've just done.. BRILLIANT
Cheers mate. Glad it helped! Fireblade? My dad had one, his 2nd fave bike ever after his EXUP 👍
I had never thought of the idea of compressed air. Very informative video. Thanks a lot.
Same here,
Can feed rope into the cylinder as well if you don't have a compressor.
@@bschtonks2010How did you manage that?
@@justice4ayrton8gabrielleAbreu took the plugs out and used .. rope.
Underrated video. Thank you for showing us the install on the spare valve!
Old vid but my best performing one so I guess people are still watching it. Thanks!
Great video, thank you. Can you explain why we have to pump air in the cylinder? An answer would be much appreciated.
Keeping pressure in the cylinder pushes the valve up and keeps it from falling into the cylinder when you remove the spring.
@@МаксимилианШаффер thank you 🙏
Fabulous information. 10/10. I put pantihose in the spark plugs hole, and turn the engine with piston up.
Nice one cheers! Pantihose is a new one but if it works, why not. Any specific brand?! 🤣
Fantastic video. Great advice. Just done valve seals on my 1.6 Cortina. Big thank you. Next job valve seals on my 2.8 Capri. 😊
Cheers! Never done them on a 2.8 so good luck
I have never nor have I ever seen anyone reuse a valve cover gasket. 😂 I love it. Cool video.
I'll take that as a compliment. It can be done, especially if you have the valve cover off as often as I do! Cheers.
Excellent presentation Thankyou. Clearly explained, with professional recording/camera work.
Thanks Ben. I cringe when I watch these older videos! Glad to hear people are still finding them helpful. Cheers.
Very good video. Useful to see which way to turn the follower locking and adjusting nuts. Thanks
Glad you found it useful. Thanks.
Colorado, USA here. Are you in Free Ireland or "captured" Ireland ? I will be doing the seals replacement on a 1993 Chevy K-2500 extended cab pick up with 191,000 plus miles. Previous owner said the engine was low on coolant so things got a little hot in the heads. I have air and the other tools to do this. I had seen other vids but the care you demonstrated in removing and reinstalling components is a bit more detailed than what I saw in those other vids. I made notes to remind me these things. Finally, let people know to put the cotters/retainer bits back in the valve slots taper side down to insure positive engagement to the spring caps. I will use the "bopper" and socket method as you have. Cheers Mate ! God Bless Rory Gallagher ! :-)
Thankyou my good man! Good look with doing your seals.
Thank you, excellent video, I have been struggling with an '88 351, the air compressor trick was worth millions!
Cheers Josh. It's a reliable way of doing the job. I prefer the compressed air technique to sticking rope down in the cylinder.
Great video!
I have a pushrod engine, should I tune the valves after doing this?
Very very good video. I have watched many times. Regards from Mexico
glad to be of assistance!
Kind regards!
Fuck Mexico.
Indeed!
I just did valve seals on my 73 Pinto 2.0 . Valve seal #1,2,3 and 4 with that tool Rust shows here in his video, THAT TOOL IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. Got one on Amazon for like $25.00, Valve seal #5,6,7 and 8 I did a week ago with a rental clamping tool from the auto part store, Boy that tool is a pain in ass to get it done. I also used the rental clamping tool 2 yrs yrs ago on my 72 pinto. freekin nightmare to use and takes WAAAAAY more time. Buy the tool that Rust is showing here. Also get the one that has that adjusting arm and you can clear the Carb on #4 Valve when you change the arm angle. It seemed easy if you start with the part of the tool that sits on the spring first, then get the hooks over the cam. I also fed rope through a straw to hold up the valves, Take off the followers first to make it easy, I'd get the piston up to TDC then back it down like 1-2 inch, then feed the rope in till full, then crank the piston up on the rope to push the valve up, a few times the cam lobe would be going down making it hard to get the follower off. SO, Take the followers off first to make it easy,
Yeah the tool works really well on the pinto. Saved me a fortune in head gaskets already. Glad to hear you got the job done!
Great video and details, much appreciated!
Finally I'm about to tackle this on my consul, I don't seem to find that valve guide line, whats the correct name to search for it?
You're blessed to have valves that sit proud like that... im working on a Peugeot head and those seals are 3 1/4" below the surface 😡
Hello. Your video was published 8 years ago but did you have good return with your valve stem seals glued ?
Thank you so much IV got really loads of blue smoke on me 1.6 Capri 1981 think IV over filled the oil and IV realised IV put 5/40 oil not 20/50. The Capri has been standing for 5 years in the dry garage.
Great video, exactly what I needed... Thanks for taking the time to make it and you are so right about the shiny new tools :-)
Glad it was helpful, cheers!
Those little spring bottoms that the springs hook onto, I've seen those facing both ways in my repair books etc. I have mine facing outwards.
I’ve done this job with the engine in the car after a valve spring broke. I get a length of 30 amp three core electric cable, curved it sideways and poked it in the spark plug hole so it went beneath the affected valve. I then rotated the engine to trap the cable between the piston and the valve, so the valve wouldn’t open. I then removed the broken spring. Using a lever I was able to compress and refit a new spring.
Where can I get the spring compressor from rather than the type I have that clamps under the valve when the head is off. Thanks.
How would it work without an overhaul cam. I've got a DAF 615 and I'd like to change the valve stem seals
It'll take a good while to do the seals in my 16 valve corolla. Lol
yeh, when 16v comes back to bite you!
@@FastRust I think what I'm gonna do is just pull a used head with good valves and springs still in it, put the new seals on that head, then just take a 3 day weekend and swap heads.
Not a bad idea. Swapping the seals is definitely easier with the head off, but it is more expensive that way. Good luck 👍
Got a 91 integra. .
Lol 16 valve call me when you're done it on the 24 valve motor 3.0 in mid 2000 Chrysler Sebrings😂
Can you use a stem valve sealant and piston ring sealant to stop the smoke
Great job body well explained, may I ask what was the valve stem seals symptoms you had got !!? Thanks
Usual stuff. Blue smoke on first start up, blue smoke on decel. Blue smoke if you give it a rev after its been a while idling.. all fixed with new seals
Brilliant. Thanks for uploading
Seems this could be my problem,iv got a mk6 golf R recently mapped,wen i put my foot down I’ll get a little bit of blue/gray smoke,not all the time tho,and sometimes wen I’m coming to a stop either roundabout or traffic lights it will sometimes let out some more of the same colour smoke,mainly wen I’m about to pall of,from another video i just watched it sounds like the stem seals,but apparently it can also be pistons,but the other video it said if it was the pistons it would smoke all the time witch it doesn’t,I’m going to change the PCV for the hell of it even tho a genuine one from VW was only fitted 4 months ago,I thought at first it was the seal in my turbo so i brought a new one,but since changing the turbo it don’t smoke as much as it did,maybe it’s just me on that,but my problem might be this,question is as iv no knowledge on this,if your in there changing stem seals is it worth changing the pistons as well?
Hey, Good video. Where Could I to buy the special tool for compress valve spring? Does it is part of a complete tool set for valve job? Thanks
Hey. Go on ebay and search 'ohc valve spring compressor' & you'll be able to buy the exact same one I have. Not part of a set, no.
If you haven't got a compressor. I use poly rope feed it thru the spark plug hole and bring the piston to tdc. This compresses the rope and holds the valve up
I did mine, NO more smoking.
Very handy, Sadly I can't get power to my garage so I need to do the rope trick.
who or where can i buy a valve spring compressor like that one ?
Awesome! I need to do this with my ford transit mk2, it has the same engine, i hoop i can do it in the car. As the heater inlet is in the way. I think it happens with the 4th cilinder because it gets the hottest of al due to it being the furthest away from radiator and also wind Cooling!
The thought had crossed my mind. I still have the issue to this day although last one that popped off was no.2. Always exhaust side though. Good luck getting yours done 👍🏻
@@FastRust thanks i ordered the same tool you got. And i Will get it done next time i check valve clearence.
Cool video mate 😎
Awesome video!
I have the same engine
Could you please write the name of the air compressor to spark plug hose/connector? Or even a link if possible. Cant seem to be able to find it anywhere.
Laser Valve Holder Part no. 2372. Got it from the local parts store years ago so haven't got a link sorry. I'd give eBay a shot. Cheers!
@@FastRust Thanks mate! Will do.
Could this be done on 350 small block? Idk how you would compress the spring....
This guide is meant for OHC vehicles so I'm not sure how you'd go about it with a pushrod engine like a 350. There must be a way? Anyone?
If you get the piston on the up spot, would that keep the valve from falling in?
The valve will still fall down part way making it very hard to reassemble.
I put the piston at TDC then backed it down a little, Then fed like 8' of thin rope through a drinking straw into the spark plug hole. Then brought piston back up till it stopped moving, Got them all done that way. No more oil burning now.
HA HA! I did it that way way back in the early 1980's to my 2L pinto engine!
Great video, but I do have a question. If the valve accidentally drops, is there a way to get it back up without removing the head???
If you've got the piston at TDC it won't drop too far, you should just be able to grab it and pull it back up
@@FastRust thanks for the quick reply. Be blessed! 😇
I dropped one of my hex bits into the spark plug hole.....still figuring out how to retrieve it without removing the head 😢😢😢..... the magnet tool i have is too big....the VW Polos have narrow spark plugs and holes.....any ideas without removing head?..... i cant find a small enough magnet anywhere
@@babelonchabalala1690 - I know someone sales a small pencil sized retractable magnet. You may want to check with Harbor Freight. However, I’m not sure if the magnet is strong enough to lift a socket. ????
Would it work on a diesel if I bring the piston to top dead centre and use the flat top of the piston to ensure that the valve does not drop? At TDC, the clearance between the underside of the head and the top of the piston is very little indeed and although the valve will drop a little, it would not be much. I have an air compressor but I do not have a fitting to deliver air to the combustion chamber through the injector tubes. The engine is a Volvo marine diesel, the MD17C (the MD17D is very similar). If I could manage to change the valve seals without lifting the heads it would save a massive amount of work, and expense. Thanks.
I've often wondered whether it would work this way. The only issue I can see is that the valve drops so you get coil bind compressing the spring before the keepers can be removed. I'd be tempted to use the rope method if you can't use compressed air. Feed rope into the cylinder then bring the piston up to squash it under the valve.
@@FastRust Difficult to use rope with a diesel as you have to disturb the injectors to have any chance of getting it in there.
Awesome video thank you have to do these on my tiger kit car with the pinto found all the stuff you used apart from the air line im struggling to find what should i search to find one thank you
Thanks Luke. Laser Valve Holder. Part 2372. That's what it's called on the packet 👍🏻
Thank you
I am going to replace the valve stem seals on my Toyota 2azfe with the engine on the car using this method. I will attempt to do this without letting the timing chain come off of the crank sprocket so I don't have to drop the oil pan just to put it back on. I will do my best to secure the chain in place while removing the cam sprockets. This means I will have to avoid turning the engine/crank shaft. With the timing marks aligned prior to removing the cam sprockets, Cylinders 1 and 4 will be set to top dead center while 2 and 3 will be at the bottom. My concern is, will I be able to pressurize cylinders 2 and 3 while they are on bottom position to prevent the valves from dropping in?
Handy Daddy
If both valves are closed and you can maintain around 70 -80 psi in the cylinder, I see no reason why the valves should fall in, regardless of piston position. It may just take longer to get 2 & 3 up to pressure being that the volume inside the cylinder is larger. Having said that, I’ve never done it this way! If you’re worried you could always use the stuff-rope-into-the-cylinder method, just to be extra careful. Don’t forget to stick it in gear.
Nice video !
What is that valve spring compressor tool called. It seemed very slick.
Sealey VS168 👍
Thanks for making this video
Awesome video!
Would this work on a BMW 320i 4 cylinder?
Very clear information
Hey Fast Rust, is it important to use that little see through plastic protector sleeve that fits on the valve while installing the new seal? The last time I did seals the kit didn't come with that. I just toss them on with the lock tight and some grease around valve seal hole.
Never heard of them so no! I just put a light smear of grease on the grooves that the collet locates in, then install.
I fit a thin drinking straw over the valve stem with a bit of oil....those grooves on the valve stem that hold the cotters(keepers)....they could damage the new seal when u slide it over those grooves....after installed i just pull out the straw again
Great work
Love the channel name 😭😂
Ha thanks. Wasn't sure myself but stuck with it now!
I know its an old video but does anyone know where i would get the air fitting for spark plug ?
Very clear explanation
Thanks 👍
I don't get a puff of blue smoke when I start the motor but I do when it has been idling and I rev it, for instance sitting at the lights and then driving off. Would that also be valve stem seals or is it something else?
Valve seals can cause this, but I'd expect to see smoke at cold start up as well. Crankcase breather blockage maybe?
@@FastRust Thanks for the quick response mate, As the breather is the easier thing to fix I will look at it first.
👍
How many hours did this take you and how much time do you think this saved you from taking the motor apart further?
With 8 valves I reckon I could do all the seals this way in about 3 to 4 hours. Of course if you have 16 it could easily be more like 5 to 6 hours. Either way it's quicker than removing the head, which could take you best part of a day maybe longer. Doing it this way you don't have to deal with timing belt, draining the coolant, removing the exhaust, replacing the head gasket etc etc.
Very good job great idea
thankyou!
Bought a beautiful 2006 Nissan Altima. Ran nice but smoked a lot at start up. Started to change the Valve seals. Found a valve that must have had a stem half the size. Of the bore. With 225 k on the car I decided to order one of the Japonese imported engines.
Yea, no seal is gonna fix that problem!
My mini emits smoke after about 20 min of driving, there no smoke at start up. Could it still be stem valve seals?
It's not classic stem seal symtoms to be honest. But if you're burning oil, it's one of the simpler things to rule out, so would still recommend checking them.
piston rings is more likely to be the problem
@@shadeauto3373 turned out to be the stem valve seals, cots me 1200 to get it fixed with a new timing chain too, it has been 14 months now with no problems
Thank you for your video
Just found your channel. Clear instructions with good camerawork. Subscribed!
Try my best! Thanks Hendrik.
Cheers for the video
I used to go to school with Collette Cotter. 😂
Can anyone please explain why you need the air conpressor ifnthe piston is already at the top in the compression stroke.
Because there is a gap between the piston and valve. Not a lot in some engines but it's there. If you let the valve drop down a little bit, you wouldn't be able to compress the spring enough to get the keepers back in the valve grooves. The air keeps the valve fully closed and extended fully so you have to compress the spring the least amount possible. If you have the head off the vehicle, the tool clamps on the top of the spring and the underside of the valve.
Not looking forward to doing all 24 valve seals on my Dodge Stealth. Gotta do a timing belt anyway so I guess I might as well do both.
The one time having more valves is a disadvantage. Good luck!
What do you pressurize the cylinder to?
70/80psi will do the job
Good video
Is that a 2.3l Ford Fast Rust?
No straight 2.0. We didn't get the 2.3 over here in the UK. As I understand it they're quite similar though.
Can't you just rotate the crankshaft so the piston sits TDC?
For what do you use that Loctite product? I don't get it
Explain it in the video. Valve guides a bit worn so at high rpm the seals pop off. Bit of glue holds them in place.
@@FastRust Use Ford CVH valve stem oil seals they have a lip on the bottom which the spring sits on to prevents the seal poping up
Can I do it on my tacooma 2.7
this is for the engine HE talks about .... NOT the one you may be driving!
If you put the cylinder all up don't hold the valve?
What is the air tube called that you use?
Laser Valve Holder. Part no. 2372.
@@FastRust from which site?
Think I got it in local parts store. Was a long time ago!
Brilliant idea with the air and saves so much labour intensive work otherwise
where can i find you i need some work doing
Fire an email to teamfastrust@gmail.com
is it as easy on a dohc engine?
Can't say for sure but as it's OHC it can't be far off. DOHC you have double the amount of seals though!
soch does not mean that you cant have 16 valves per 4 silinder.
Sohs is only for single cam meaning. and one cam can still drive 4 valves.
But usually yes, sohsh is easier since it wont cover valves itself. In doch setup you propably need to remove cams to work on seals.
i like the syro U473t8+E .
I noticed my 73 still smokes a little at start up after changing valve seals, must be the motor is getting tired and the rings are boo boo, :)
Does it smoke under load?
@@FastRust No smoke when launching it, I tested that when you told me to :) Also, when I start the car when it's been sitting for days, it fires right up quick, but when I drive around shopping here and there throughout the day, when leaving a store, I have to crank it for like 7-8 seconds for it to start if the visit to the store is quick. That's weird.
What wrong if its smoking Consistently?
Engine's probably a little tired. Compression test and investigate.
Bad rings and bad pistons
collets dude collets but great vid
ha ha. You're right, by the time I'd filmed it, it was too late.
thank you
No problem
the tool needed to be rotated 90º, in order to have 2 sides (left and right) to insert the 2 keepers; the way it is ,you only have the front... but i guess there is no room for leverage.
It's not the most well designed tool to be honest, but it is cheap. The price of the tools (minus the compressor), works out at a similar price to a new head gasket & bolts, so it's not a bad option in that respect.
Did you say 80 psi . Or 18 psi .
80psi
👌👌👌
Mazda Rustler 1,3
DO NOT!!! use loc-tite, i used loc-tite 271 and now i have a stuck valve
Without remove the head, but remove the engine ???
No need to remove the engine. I address this point in the video. Mine was out for other maintenance.
@@FastRust thanks
Is that the engine from the Titanic ship...dude ...we are in 2016.
typical comment from someone who doesn't know nothing about engines, are you a blonde chick ?
???
Actually I have more than 10 years as a mechanic ASE Certified. My comment was because there are modern engines like VVT-I and VTEC. Another thing, I was just joking. I like this video, he did a good job. Can you take a joke, are you a red head chick..?
It's all good. I personally think it would make a sweet anchor.
I have to admit, I didn't like the comment about the Titanic engine much either but after owning a Mk3 Cortina 2.0 GT back in the 80's and currently owning a Mk3 Cortina 1.6 XL I have to say that my 10 year old Toyota 1.3 VVTi outperforms both of them. Still love Pinto SOHC engines though. So simple to work on and you do not need a laptop to diagnose any problems with them.
Try another angle when recording.
It's always better to do work with the engin in the car cause it's real life dude.
Title say without removing the head but you removed the whole engine.
Someone didn't listen to the video
For heaven's sake, why add some jerky music to your video to make it annoying to watch?
What is name of the air tool used to keep the valves in place?
Laser Valve Holder. Part no. 2372.
Can anyone please explain why you need the air conpressor ifnthe piston is already at the top in the compression stroke.
Because the valve will drop into the cylinder without air pressure.
Good job. Thankyou