I love how real this channel is. It's not a fancy 2 post lift in a clean, perfect shop with all the right tools. You're a real guy just DOING the thing. I can relate and I'm binging your videos f my MK6!
Third 02 is on the turbo and if you do an aftermarket turbo they may not have 02 spot so you can take out plug drop the other 02 sensor if that top spot
Thanks for this painfully honest and comprehensive video! It's nice to see another regular person doing an install where things go wrong, instead of a professional working on a nearly brand new surface rust free vehicle that has zero complications! You kept your cool too (at least on camera) and that's saying a lot! I realize this video isn't super new, but keep at it!
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, I am not a professional and am not afraid to show it. Too many people try to appear too polished and everything is perfect but that isn't always accurate to the viewers watching it. Just trying to be one of the guys! Hahah. And yeah, I kept my cool because I didn't keep my cool on other installs in the past. Learned how to keep a level head and think because there is always a solution that I just need a clear head to find!
I don't recommend using a torque wrench as a breaker bar. That being said I dont envy you and this has given me full confidence in having a shop do the dp install.
I really try to avoid it but in tight spaces, it’s the longest click wrench I have. Need to change that! And yeah, just get a shop. This was not fun during but totally worth it once it was done!
did you get a check engine light from the o2 sensoer? I have heard of people getting check engine lights. I'm looking into buying either a CTS Turbo DP or a ARM Motorsport DP. Not sure which to get.
I did, but a stage 2 tune will take care of it. Just telling the sensor to read for 3 inches in its formula, not 2.5. And I almost got the ARM DP but they have skyrocketed in price after they entered the market was one of the cheapest options you could find. What I paid for both the turbo outlet and throttle body pipes, you can't even get one for that price. Really, either will do great I am assuming!
Stage 1 I don't believe will. I had a CEL with my stage 1. Albeit I did the downpipe after the tune. If you just want stage 1, find a tuner in your area who can code out the CEL independently. Although 034 is only $50 more go stage 2 and the stock clutch can hold it (in a manual) and that would get rid of the CEL.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic ARM website has them on sale for as low as $350 and then CTS has it on sale rn for $340. I think I’m going to do ARM and see if any of my friends know anyone who can get rid of the check engine light
@@TheParkingLotMechanic fair, i probably know somebody who could code out the cel. I can definitely go stage 2, but would rather not push it since i have to make multiple 5+ hour drives per year and she’s already got 107k miles on stock everything haha
How did you get the 2 broken studs out. I have the same problem on my car and was trying to watch videos to see if anyone made a video on how to get them out
Some people shouldn’t work on cars and that’s you. Why didn’t you just make things simple and removed the battery.. takes on 5 minutes.. stop working on cars man,
I love how real this channel is. It's not a fancy 2 post lift in a clean, perfect shop with all the right tools. You're a real guy just DOING the thing. I can relate and I'm binging your videos f my MK6!
Third 02 is on the turbo and if you do an aftermarket turbo they may not have 02 spot so you can take out plug drop the other 02 sensor if that top spot
Thanks for this painfully honest and comprehensive video! It's nice to see another regular person doing an install where things go wrong, instead of a professional working on a nearly brand new surface rust free vehicle that has zero complications! You kept your cool too (at least on camera) and that's saying a lot! I realize this video isn't super new, but keep at it!
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, I am not a professional and am not afraid to show it. Too many people try to appear too polished and everything is perfect but that isn't always accurate to the viewers watching it. Just trying to be one of the guys! Hahah. And yeah, I kept my cool because I didn't keep my cool on other installs in the past. Learned how to keep a level head and think because there is always a solution that I just need a clear head to find!
Props to you for pushing through it bro!
Thanks! It was tough, I'll tell ya what.
I don't recommend using a torque wrench as a breaker bar. That being said I dont envy you and this has given me full confidence in having a shop do the dp install.
I really try to avoid it but in tight spaces, it’s the longest click wrench I have. Need to change that! And yeah, just get a shop. This was not fun during but totally worth it once it was done!
the extra port is for bigger turbo upgrades that dont have a o2 sensor port
Ahhh, that makes sense. Thank you!
@@TheParkingLotMechanic yeah when looking at turbo upgrades I saw some don't have a port for DVS/bovs or oxygen ports
Thanks for the info.....I think I'll take it to my buddy's and use his lift :)
Highly recommend a lift!
did you get a check engine light from the o2 sensoer? I have heard of people getting check engine lights. I'm looking into buying either a CTS Turbo DP or a ARM Motorsport DP. Not sure which to get.
I did, but a stage 2 tune will take care of it. Just telling the sensor to read for 3 inches in its formula, not 2.5. And I almost got the ARM DP but they have skyrocketed in price after they entered the market was one of the cheapest options you could find. What I paid for both the turbo outlet and throttle body pipes, you can't even get one for that price. Really, either will do great I am assuming!
@@TheParkingLotMechanicwill any tune get rid of the cel? I plan on doing stage 1 tune with the downpipe so i’m curious if the light will still go away
Stage 1 I don't believe will. I had a CEL with my stage 1. Albeit I did the downpipe after the tune. If you just want stage 1, find a tuner in your area who can code out the CEL independently. Although 034 is only $50 more go stage 2 and the stock clutch can hold it (in a manual) and that would get rid of the CEL.
@@TheParkingLotMechanic ARM website has them on sale for as low as $350 and then CTS has it on sale rn for $340. I think I’m going to do ARM and see if any of my friends know anyone who can get rid of the check engine light
@@TheParkingLotMechanic fair, i probably know somebody who could code out the cel. I can definitely go stage 2, but would rather not push it since i have to make multiple 5+ hour drives per year and she’s already got 107k miles on stock everything haha
How did you get the 2 broken studs out. I have the same problem on my car and was trying to watch videos to see if anyone made a video on how to get them out
Stud extractor from Home Depot. Sorry if this is too late to help :(
@TheParkingLotMechanic are you able to link the extractor set?
Warmed up the engine and then spray pb blaster.. bro, stop working on cars..you’re of mechanically inclined. Clearly…
Some people shouldn’t work on cars and that’s you. Why didn’t you just make things simple and removed the battery.. takes on 5 minutes.. stop working on cars man,
If you wanted perfection, you should not have come here.