You want the pinion pointing a few degrees downward in static state. When you jump on it the pinion climbs the ring gear causing the dif housing to go level with the driveshaft under hard acceleration applying lift to the control arms at the point of your new bushings.
I know it’s been about 6 months, but do what you want on the control arms on the rear, but DOM fabricated something stuff can run $300+. I have a 67 so the same. Just cleaned them up to bare metal and MIG welded seam between the stamped steel members that are plugged welded together both top, bottom and the axle end. Ground to look nice, primed, painted then with clear. I expect no flexing under any load the axle would take. Maybe it’s the frugal farm boy left in me, but choose to spend my money on a ratio of ring & pinion matched to my overdrive with lockup at road speed. Yes, I rebuilt the disc type locker and new bearings. But, having a diff housing spreader and decades of doing these was not hard. The average warranty book time at the dealer is about 5.8 hours, so you get fast. I am watching each video in sequence and reliving my daily driver, thru your work, both the ups and downs. Like the caliper banjo bolts. S@?t happens! I saw it on a bumper sticker once, must be true. Keep it up, I’am subscribed! ASE Master Tech since the 70’s (Called National Institute of Automotive Excellence) then they shorten it. Strange to think the original test had questions on points & condensers, much less front drum brakes pulling when applied! Best of luck with your build.
Looks great, for putting shocks on maybe try a ratchet strap around the frame and control arms, but might want to see if the kit calls for longer shocks. That’s going to be a sweet truck!!
I thought about doing that too. I ran out of time to be honest. It’s only about half the width of the bolt off so with the extra weight of the bed it’ll be fine.
Good video. Finished mine aswell, didn’t put the shims in tho, but so far so good. Ordered that E-stopp parking brake kit for my next project. Cables were broken anyways so might aswell tackle that too
Great vid! It addressed several steps that others haven’t. Question: what orientation do the small poly pieces need. Bevel to the arm or bevel to the bracket?
Looking good man! I've been working on my c notch tonight. Just curious on what you have in mind on the trailing arms? Also do you know what other rear end will work to make it positive traction? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The old stock units are getting hard to find and would likely need to be rebuilt. I’d go aftermarket. For trailing arms, I’ll eventually get a set of tubular arms.
You planning on doing Autocross after all is set and done with your truck? I see a lot of these trucks doing Autocross on magazines. Pretty sick that they're keeping up with Camaros and Mustangs 🤘. Hope to see your C10 on a magazine one day
Which shocks did you go with from cpp for your setup. Are they the 5” drop shocks ? I’m doing a similar setup with mine want to make sure they have enough travel length
They make shims at different degrees. You can get away without shimming at that drop but I’d recommend seeing what your pinion angle looks like and going from there
Hey Paul - I'm in the middle of doing the same thing on my 67. I asked another group which way fat end of shim should face - they said towards back. You said towards front. Since making this video, have you confirmed front was correct? Any driveline issues so far?
@@paulkc10 oh. I'm looking to possibly get a c10 and I'm pretty clueless on the suspension at the moment. I thought when they were converted to coilovers, the leaf springs (I think it's leaf springs) were changed out, for some reason and the truck would be purely riding on coil overs and shocks, but I suppose that doesn't make much sense... I was wondering because the QA1 and CPP coil overs only have a 5/6 and 5.5/5 drop, and I liked the 5/7 or 5.5/8 drops better. I'll have to try to do some more learning, thank you
Not all C10’s are leaf spring suspension (most aren’t - until you start getting into C20’s or later models). With a coil spring set up, the axle still needs to be attached to the trailing arm. So you could definitely run a drop block.
@@paulkc10 I've only read that this was the first generation for leaf springs, apparently the had coil springs and leaf springs were an option. looks like I have a lot more research to do, thank you. Edit- looks like Chevy c10s came standard with coil, leaf was an option, and GMC c10s came standard with leaf, and coil was an option.
Your doing a fine job but i am doing the same thing to my 67 but i did not cut the frame to make it a short bed watched another fella do it to a 67 with leaf springshe just everything forward 1 ft. and decided to give it try made my own 4 link system witch i found on You Tube will be putting out Video soon .
Did a qa1 suspension drop on my 68 c10 handling is amazing
I bet
I just did this last week! just gotta install my adjustable panhard bar now.
Great video. You made it simple. What i was looking thanks
Great quality videos! I am basically following your set up. Keep it up!
Awesome. Big things coming soon
Thanks for this helpful video! Lowering my C10 project soon!
Really coming along I enjoy this channel bro !
You want the pinion pointing a few degrees downward in static state. When you jump on it the pinion climbs the ring gear causing the dif housing to go level with the driveshaft under hard acceleration applying lift to the control arms at the point of your new bushings.
Nice work I'm thinking of putting 2inch drop blocks on my 67 c10
No I want the other direction up
Hi do they make that kit for a c20 thks for the video
I know it’s been about 6 months, but do what you want on the control arms on the rear, but DOM fabricated something stuff can run $300+. I have a 67 so the same. Just cleaned them up to bare metal and MIG welded seam between the stamped steel members that are plugged welded together both top, bottom and the axle end. Ground to look nice, primed, painted then with clear. I expect no flexing under any load the axle would take. Maybe it’s the frugal farm boy left in me, but choose to spend my money on a ratio of ring & pinion matched to my overdrive with lockup at road speed. Yes, I rebuilt the disc type locker and new bearings. But, having a diff housing spreader and decades of doing these was not hard. The average warranty book time at the dealer is about 5.8 hours, so you get fast.
I am watching each video in sequence and reliving my daily driver, thru your work, both the ups and downs. Like the caliper banjo bolts. S@?t happens! I saw it on a bumper sticker once, must be true. Keep it up, I’am subscribed!
ASE Master Tech since the 70’s (Called National Institute of Automotive Excellence) then they shorten it. Strange to think the original test had questions on points & condensers, much less front drum brakes pulling when applied! Best of luck with your build.
Looks great, for putting shocks on maybe try a ratchet strap around the frame and control arms, but might want to see if the kit calls for longer shocks. That’s going to be a sweet truck!!
I thought about doing that too. I ran out of time to be honest. It’s only about half the width of the bolt off so with the extra weight of the bed it’ll be fine.
@@paulkc10 You can use stock length shocks with this kit. The ride much better
Good video. Finished mine aswell, didn’t put the shims in tho, but so far so good. Ordered that E-stopp parking brake kit for my next project. Cables were broken anyways so might aswell tackle that too
The cables are such a pain in the ass
Dropped my rearend on my 61 Apache with 3" coils. No issues with pinion angle.
Wow, you got that done quickly.....
Mearure the driveline angles before you change anything ,
Weld the trailing arm seams.....DONE! and flip the trailing arm pivot brackets upward.
Great vid! It addressed several steps that others haven’t.
Question: what orientation do the small poly pieces need. Bevel to the arm or bevel to the bracket?
Great Video!
What size drop are the springs in rear?
5
Looking good man! I've been working on my c notch tonight. Just curious on what you have in mind on the trailing arms? Also do you know what other rear end will work to make it positive traction? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The old stock units are getting hard to find and would likely need to be rebuilt. I’d go aftermarket. For trailing arms, I’ll eventually get a set of tubular arms.
Easy to rebuild an old GM 12 bolt rear end. I just converted my '70 C10 12 bolt rear-end to posi, or you can pay someone to do it.
When measuring the rear alignment, where exactly are you measuring from?
You planning on doing Autocross after all is set and done with your truck? I see a lot of these trucks doing Autocross on magazines. Pretty sick that they're keeping up with Camaros and Mustangs 🤘. Hope to see your C10 on a magazine one day
Probably not autocross. The suspension setups on those trucks is far superior to what I’m putting on. I appreciate you bud
Opposite side of bushing is tapered side in or out ? I saw another guys video where he turned and is talked them tapered side in toward trailing arm
Which shocks did you go with from cpp for your setup. Are they the 5” drop shocks ? I’m doing a similar setup with mine want to make sure they have enough travel length
They’re the same generic drop shocks all the retailers sell
I have a 66 C-10 panel that I want to lower 1 1/2”. Do I need the shims for this?
Thanks.
They make shims at different degrees. You can get away without shimming at that drop but I’d recommend seeing what your pinion angle looks like and going from there
What about the front? What drop spindles did you use? I want to ordered everything at once. Thank you in advance!
I made a video showing all the front suspension rebuild
Do you have drop springs in it already if so how low did you go on springs?
Yea 5” drop springs
Hey Paul - I'm in the middle of doing the same thing on my 67. I asked another group which way fat end of shim should face - they said towards back. You said towards front. Since making this video, have you confirmed front was correct? Any driveline issues so far?
I had them backwards
@@paulkc10 Thanks!
Drop blocks can't be combined with coil overs, correct?
Sure they can. The coil over should provide the drop for you tho
@@paulkc10 oh. I'm looking to possibly get a c10 and I'm pretty clueless on the suspension at the moment. I thought when they were converted to coilovers, the leaf springs (I think it's leaf springs) were changed out, for some reason and the truck would be purely riding on coil overs and shocks, but I suppose that doesn't make much sense...
I was wondering because the QA1 and CPP coil overs only have a 5/6 and 5.5/5 drop, and I liked the 5/7 or 5.5/8 drops better. I'll have to try to do some more learning, thank you
Not all C10’s are leaf spring suspension (most aren’t - until you start getting into C20’s or later models). With a coil spring set up, the axle still needs to be attached to the trailing arm. So you could definitely run a drop block.
@@paulkc10 I've only read that this was the first generation for leaf springs, apparently the had coil springs and leaf springs were an option. looks like I have a lot more research to do, thank you.
Edit- looks like Chevy c10s came standard with coil, leaf was an option, and GMC c10s came standard with leaf, and coil was an option.
Your doing a fine job but i am doing the same thing to my 67 but i did not cut the frame to make it a short bed watched another fella do it to a 67 with leaf springshe just everything forward 1 ft. and decided to give it try made my own 4 link system witch i found on You Tube will be putting out Video soon .
I'm restoring my 67c10 on my channel also
The music junked another video 👎👎👎👎💩💩😬