Part 2 - The Cause of Muddy Well Water After Raining, Casing Repair.
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- Опубліковано 21 чер 2022
- This Residential Water Well Would always get Muddy after a heavy Rain fall.
Failure to install Well casing correctly can result in what's depicted in this video.
It washed away all the dirt in the surrounding bore hole, bringing the Red Clay soil down into the Clean portion of the well.
First We Had to Fix The the 6" Casing, and we can install a 4" Well liner in the Future to be 100% sure that All surface water Doesn't mix with the Fresh Clean Drinking Water.
Links to Common Water Well System Products
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40/60 Pressure Switch amzn.to/3QyJMeO
Brass Tank T Manifold Kit amzn.to/3p89gUY
1/2 Hp 240v Pump 150ft Max Pumping Depth amzn.to/3zGY3iZ
Rubber Tape for Wire amzn.to/3vSR1GI
Wire Splice Kit amzn.to/3A7U68q
#wellwater #wellpump #nowater
If you have questions about Wells /Pump Systems, feel free to leave a comment & id be glad to help Anyone in need!
Tips/Donations are Happily Accepted but not Required to get my Help
Venmo: Philip-Hensley-3
PayPal: Hwdracing@gmail.com - Авто та транспорт
As I plumber watching this. I would suggest you invest in a 4-6 inch test ball from a plumbing supply house and a couple extension hoses. Would be a lot safer and easier to seal the well from debris falling in.
It's good to see a young man like you abiding by ol' time honor telling customers that you're a man of your word and a handshake will seal the deal. Thanks for another great video. Thank you.
One thing I like seeing when I'm watching some UA-cam is a smart man bud you stick with it and remember what pops learned, you, bud, and you'll go far in life
You're a good man, knowledgeable, workmanlike, and honest. Your clients are lucky to have you.
You seem to be a real man of his word! Because our WORD and standing behind it is all we really have that is TRULY OURS IN THIS WORLD!
❤❤❤❤❤!
This was a clever solution to a potentially challenging problem! Minimum expense for the homeowner but a properly done job.
I love this video so much!!! I googled you all and you're in Ohio. I'm in NC so you all are far from me but I could damn sure use your help so much!!! Our well is close to 30 years old and we have had muddy water going on and yes especially after heavy rains. Dumbasses down here cannot seem to fix the problem but I bet you all could fix it! Thank you for the video!!! God bless!
Great job, I learned something.
who ever drilled the well did a piss poor job of back filling the angular space (outside of casing) i always left the drill (rock cuttings) fill in behind the casing, they pack so tight most times it is impossible to pull the casing back out. makes a excellent seal. if you would have installed a pitless adapter at the depth where the line goes into the house you would not have had to piss with the cement rings.AHYHOW ill give you a A you did a good job and you seem to be a guy who would not screw his customer's.
Pitless adaptors are great, its just not very common for us down south.
Once you get to far north VA and above you start running into pitless.
qqqq
😊
Annular space, not angular.
Thanks for part 2.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
By the looks of the clay and your accent sounds like my vist to a school bus manufacturer in High Point .
I had a similar issue and it was disturbing, the original owner didn't have an problem but as th second owner of this 12 year old house a heavy rainy season showed its ugly problem including adding a liner.
Great job guys.
Great diagnosis and execution.
Another great professional job by an honest man. Happy new year!
I keep learning from your videos. Thank you!😊🙏🏾🌿
Fantastic video. Your work definitely deserves to be documented as you do. Thanks
Man I wish you were in my area. I have a large diameter concrete casing well that gets muddy after every rain. I can see runoff water going in about 12 feet down. I've had three plumbing companies look at it, and nobody knows how to fix it. You mentioned using a liner. I think that could be my solution. Thanks for the video. You're a master.
There's no fixing your bored well. They work using surface water.
You must use big filters or drill a drilled well.
@H2o Mechanic Thanks H2o Mechanic! Bummer.
Great job! Thanks for making the video!
Very interesting!!! Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!
I had a well drilled in Mass. in 1977 with 6" steel casing they welded the joints.
Another Awesome Job.
So irritating that people do work like that original job. It is so much easier to do it right the first time, and everybody in between is so much happier.
Always factual and meaningful content. Makes me wanna take the proper courses, go out and buy a Well Drilling truck and do this myself. Great to see the guy you learned from as well. \o
Best go do a week or a month with a driller in your area seeing then how the wells are made size, depth, rock, unconsolidated with screens how much they produce do they flow. Lots to know things can go bad in a heartbeat and depending on rigs needed etc and tooling the costs to get set up might blow your mind cheap might be -$50K or $500K+ might be needed.
@@stevelalondejr2183 Woah. I figure that truck would be expensive.
Now a days a drill truck probably 750,000 or a million, I just bought and ditch witch Jt 30 hdd drill and it was 430,000 with trailer and location equipment
Very interesting and very well explained. I have definitely learned a few things.
Nice work!
That Holeplug is mined, and packaged in my town. I used to be a welder for them.
Nice fix!
Nice job.
Good job,
Great to see someone instructing a person on how to do the job, and not demonstrating, the learner learns so much better and quicker
Awesome
My well was installed in 1994 at 335'. The pump quit in 2017. Not bad.
U got a new sub. I just want to say I like the content and info it's been hard to find information on some of this stuff that Is reliable. Had a problem with my well and had a service call and was told that my pump was failing pressure tank control box were all bad. Only did the pressure tank and control box to get water restored. We had been dealing with the low pressure since the purchase of the house so was surprised that it was even lower than it was prior to the issue and even though he pulled out the pump he didn't chlorinate the well. So we dealt with the low pressure for a couple of years but I finally found some info on shocking the well with a ton of chlorine fixing the issues we have. Slimy rusty stuff low pressure and funny smell. So I decided that before I was going to condemn the pump to give this a try. It worked way better than expected obviously the pressure didn't change but I found out that the service tech installed a lower pressure switch and is why I was confused about the pump failure don't get me wrong the pump is not the best and isn't big enough to keep up with the flow but that is a different issue and don't mean it's bad. It cleared out my pipes increase in flow and I went for gold and cranked up the pressure switch and have been at it for a year+ now with it set at 70/50 and everything has been working great. Should I be worried about the pressure setting at this point or being everything is great no leaks ECT leave it and keep running till the pump finally lets go
Leave it alone & keep running it.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Dammit ! Why am I addicted to this shit ?
Cherne makes inflatable test plugs that would be handy, and some end of pipe expandable wingnut plugs
Nice Job, the only thing I would have done differently is before you plumbed back up the well, turn back on the breaker and let it flush the dirt/bleach out before sending all that junk back into their home to clog up their sediment filters.
Need a follow up. Like to know how things panned out.
Do you not like using primer before solvent welding the pipe
I'm curious how / if you were able to verify that the casing was intact the rest of the way down. I got a good laugh at how fast you were ale to pull that pump, compared to my 900' deep well!
900ft whats your gpm hopefully 1000 gpm anything less at that depth is just disappointing to install or drill and a lot of money for a little bit of water. In my professional opinion
Saving a dime , not lining that now, is asking for big problems later. Hope he gets lucky.
You could put a flat chisel on your sds hammer drill and jack hammer alot of that dirt out into the pit and not have to dig quite so much with the shovel and maybe save some dirt going into the hole
Great job, good solution, but why is there such poor pressure and volume from the hose afterward? Should be gushing...
What kind of water well completion would you prefer? Is it open hole completion? Or hole bearing with water source with perforated casing?
For 1980 that was some extremely lazy casing install. If it fell in after cutting it would not have been that hard to fish it out and do it proper. The fact they did it twice boggles my mind, the casing is actually in really good shape so I doubt it rusted out the threads. The concrete pad was the cincher. Their intent was obviously to try to stabilize the top of the casing that was just resting on the coupler. But in reality that kept that top part unable to settle with the lower part.
stick a bag or bedsheet down there ,,,works great for stopping dirt
should have a rubber bladder you could slip into the pipe, inflate it to make a seal to minimize stuff falling in
Damn, that was some serious clay.
Ok it’s been a few months since you posted this video. Can you give us a update? Did you have to put a liner in it?
digging clay with a shovel. thats funny
Hammer drill with a spade bit is the best thing to hand dig hard clay if you ever need too
You could make an air bladder for that type of situation. I bet you could make one out of an ordinary cleanout bladder.
What area do you work in? I couldn't find that information. I need to find someone to do this. Nice job!
Why did the original installer not seal that pipe with bentonite?
Did you make your well wheel?
Wear gloves, man! Take care of your self! Thx for video 😊
Could you not use those inflatable drain test bags to block the bore entirely while you're digging?
Was there ever a part 3?
I totally lost by this. I have worked Colorado water wells for decades. We always used steel pipe casings cemented into place. New holes need min 40 foot casings. Then I saw a number of your wells with pipes coming out the top of the well head. We used pitiless adapters 5 feet down. It’s strange seeing wells where the casing is plastic and wiggles about. Is this the standard for your part of the country?
Good job a union would be a little easier to take apart the line when ready to pull the pump and I hate to say it but that well is perty much done. Hopefully it can still produce at least 5gpm after the liner 🌊⛲👍👌✌️💯
Do y'all not use a small mirror next to your temple to shine sunlight down the tube while you're looking down it?
🏁👍
I have the same problem except I have a 4 inch plastic pipe for a casing. 1/3 of the dirt around the casing is gone. about 1.5 inches away from casing. A piece of dirt fell in and I could hear it hit the water. I guess i cannot use bennonite casue it will just go down into the water.
Any suggestions?
Call a well company! Fix it before it gets unusable
How is the coupler sealed to the steel casing? I understand it's cemented w/ PVC cement to the PVC casing. And do you sell those on your website? Always interesting to see the options to repair different issues you run into.
It's essentially a weak compression fit. A semi-flexible material is tightly fit (the hammering forces it around and seats it) around an inflexible pipe, so it's like attaching a hard radiator hose. The 4" pipe itself is not under pressure, it's only a conduit for the pump and smaller pipe it is attached to. All you need is a seal tight enough to resist the fairly low pressure of the ground water attempting to seep in, which that fitting will do, and any seepage attempting to go through that tight fit will self-seal with particulate. That's a good "quick" fix for a fairly serious problem of half-assery done 40 years ago.
Why not use an inflating PIG ball. Long air line and a string and your set.
Where did you get the metal to pvc transition
My drilling supply company.
Recently I been planting shrubs in that red clay. It's like concrete. I see him punch that shovel and it just chips off a small bite.
Use a digging bar
Hey, Can i get a brass elbow ,6 -1 inch SS hose clamps ,and a 4 inch ADS well seal from you or can you tell me where to get them ? Thank you! Kevin F
Hwdracing@gmail.com send me a email with what you need & I'll get you a price for what you need. Email is best for personal information
I have the same problem, but my well is only 40 feet deep and 3 feet wide. The casing is made of 13 concrete pipes and when it rains the water gets dirty. Also, I realized that rain washes away the dirt around the casing so now I have 5 or so inches of space between casing and the soil. What can I expect in the future?
What's the ground makeup the soil layers etc is there a well log on the construction how is it back filled around the casing what is the static level does the water come in from the bottom material is there a gravel pack etc. lots of questions and variables I know then who was the driller how many gpm do it produce ?
Getting sick
Which state are you located in?
Wondering if you could recommend what well pump I should install-the data plate says the well is 145ft deep-static water level is 40ft and the yield is 10 GPM.
I have a 180 ft. deep / static 30ft. / 7 GPM.. I use a 1/2 HP Franklin Electric 120 volt 3 phase wire..Works great!
@@MargeSchott420 Thanks!
@@MargeSchott420 Hey Rone, 120v and 230v are single phase; thinking you have three wires, with 120vac to ground on two of the wires and poss 0v on the other, which would be a ground wire. If you read the two "hot" wires to each other, you may find you have 230vac between them.
At the end, when the hose is running, can you smell the chlorine and will it kill the grass?
Doubtful, city folks would all have dead grass if that were the case.
Fix the solution.
😆 yea I noticed that too lol
The concrete around the casing where I’m from the frost will pull the casing up and unseal it’s self
Well thank god the rest of us do not live there .
Is that casing supposed to be that loose? Looks that would indicate another slipped joint or broken casing.
Yup, another broke joint around 40ft. Only a liner could truly fix that
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Seems is still loose deep there so probably still has water going in.
No bentonite was harmed during the making of this video.
Can you pour rubbing alcohol down the well to sanitize and then pump it out the garden hose afterwards?, or does the chlorine pool shock the only thing to use?
Never introduced an explosive substance into a confined area. Chlorine is very good as a disinfectant.
@@nelsondog100 yes i used pool chlorine to sanitize the well, I realized that it’s not a good idea to use isopropyl Alcohol as it’s flammable, hehee..
@@highspeedboom lol yeah you don't want that in your drinking water.....
Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent purifying I use food grade 35%
Where is the sanitary seal between the well casing and drilled hole? First 30 feet should be sealed with concrete on top of 1" or less gravel? What country is this? Must be in Africa!!!
Thanks a bunch. It was a great tip to find out if a concrete is put around the casing, in time it can move. Something which I was contemplating on doing here in Uganda. This video was a great help to deter me from putting a concrete slab around the casing. I just got a new borehole machine for my voluntary project in Uganda helping villagers with clean water. I was about to start the first borehole but ran out of time on my air ticket. I'm heading back to TX then back again to start the first borehole using a submersible pump. Other villages where there is no electric, I'll be using a hand pump. Do I have to flush the borehole before installing a submersible pump? Many thanks for sharing your very valuable experience with us. For me your work and advise is a rating of 12 out 10
Once you drill the well, you can install the pump & flush the well by allowing it to pump for 30+ mins. Itll allow fresh water to flow in & hopefully the water becomes clear.
@@h2omechanic Many thanks, your response is greatly appreciated. I'll give it a try as you suggested on my return from TX. Is Polymer necessary to use in order to avoid borehole cave in? Here they mention it when drilling but not when dug by hand. I am about 8 km from a lake which is about 10 square meters and about 3 meters deep. I have not heard you mention in any of your videos. Someone here gave me an advise to buy a 7 inch drill bit and use 5 inch casing. I bought a 7 inch tricone drill bit for use on tough rocks. Not having started the first borehole with a new machine and having watched your videos, now I'm wondering if I can use a 4 inch casing instead since I already have a 7 inch drill bit. So using a 4 inch casing for both hand pump and submersible pump, will it work? Many thanks again
@@umojacleanwater yes alot of people use 4" casing. It's different from region to region.
I suppose he never opted for the liner or the new pump.
Jesus that's a muddy ass well.
Have you fellas ever installed HDPE well casing? It's not quite as straightforward to work as PVC but it's a lot more resistant to cracking and all that. And you can get it in *crazy* lengths.
You should be pouring concrete around that hole, doesn't look like it was done
This guy is somewhat handsome
BE NICE TO RUN A WATER HOSE DONE THE PIPE TO CLEAN THE IN SIDE OF THE PIPE AND ALSO SPRAY OFF THE MUD ONT HE WATER LINE CAMING OUT OUF THE HOLE... SO IT WILL BE CLEAN AGAIN...
I would start looking into Air well (condenser) & Atmospheric water generator's Technology
(80Ltrs ~ +10000Ltrs Per Day )
Air Well Remains At above Ground level (easy to Service & Fix and keep clean ) Guy with HVAC Skills Can fix Them
They work in Drought Arias (Droughts going on for decades No Rainfall in Years ) and can work OFF Grid Battey less Solar & Wind power (SOLER MPPT VFD)
Cisterns (Underground Plastic Tanks / Underground & And Above Ground raised weight accumulator tower) Buffer (With UV-C & OZone germicidal loop Treatment)
If I were the owner, I'd have you dig down the next 10 feet to the hopefully last loose joint. Then replace up to surface. Hopefully eliminating relining the well! Also you need to repack backfill every 3 inches so nothing shifts when soil settles.
Just drop a complete new pipe set up in it and be done .
15:18 "All we have to do now is plug it up" if you plug it up the pipe won't work lol do you mean plug it in or hook it up
Won’t chlorine kill the septic?
nope not if you don't go crazy with it. the chlorine will mostly be used up by the time it hits the septic.
@@rustblade5021 I’m still sceptical
Love to see you teaching a hand how to get shit done right and not overstepping even telling your dad “he’s good” and letting him give it a try shows some maturity that I can only hope to obtain in my future 🫡
If you knew it's like a 20 percent chance it fixes the issue.....why not go ahead and run the liner down the well?? That would be 100 percent fix right??
So a liner was my recommendation, but the casing didn't line up so I could install it. So this had to be done first. Secondly it's a money issue. He had to borrow money for this part, we discussed a liner to be installed in the future. He called after 3 days of rain & said it didn't get dirty and to hold off on scheduling the liner. I can only offer the recommendation, its up to the owner if he wants to pay for the service
@@h2omechanicAll this time later, did the bentonite keep it sealed? Great channel. Calmly explaining everything as you go is key.
Lining wont fix water contamination unless you are grouting/sealing between the outer pipe and the liner. Is that what they will do?
Seems to me the better decision is to dig another ten feet down and seal the broken joint.
they have a special seal they put on the end of the liner. looks like a ribbed pine cone or something. it has multiple rings that press against the steel casing and seals to it at the bottom.
Go in the undergroung
😅
"It's not gunna fix the solution" well, OK then.
Guess pulling the casing and fixing it right was out of budget.
I wouldn't be worth the money either way might as well drill a new well. For as much trouble as it would be no one would go that far in less you have time to waste and money to burn
Hopefully whatever goober drilled this well originally went out of business quickly.
Oh man, what a butcher job before you
For the money hes spending on this old well for a few dollars more after he pays to put a bandage on a 40 year old well he could have a new well . A no brainer.