I used to love the amazing suspension on that toy. That simple spring loaded mechanism absolutely nailed it as far as making it look like it was gliding.
I put up all my vehicles from star wars on the wall like the one video you showed. That’s for the idea. Between you and retro I’m fixing toys and having a lot of fun! Thanks brother.
Just received a speeder from eBay today and thanks to this video I had no problem disassembling, cleaning, replacing a spring and putting it back together. Great stuff. Need to find some replacement stickers for it now. All I have is the one under the hood compartment.
Not sure how old this post is. Excellent video by the way. Tried the windshield hack. Worked great. I. Staryed up a little bit. And cut the tabs from the same piece as the windshield. No welding needed.
These vids are helping me re-aquaint myself with ideas I had when used to build model cars etc. My Mom was always asking why are you saving those plastic caps and why do you want my old lipstick cases and I even used to save the ball from roll on deodorant, they made like little superballs really bounced great! I I think I have some sort of clear plastic domes I was saving for some sort of bubble top fpr some modern space age cars I had. I always thought have the fun of all this stuff was finding how many things around the house you could use for something...! Thank you for these!
Excellent idea from Alexander and almost perfectly executed Dave. Bet you turned the air blue when your second attempt had another seepage of plastic weld.
Wow, awesome ingenuity for the windscreens. Question - do you think it would be possible to have left some plastic on either end of the windscreens that you cut and actually use that material to cut the tabs into the shape as well so it's one unified piece? I know it would be more of a challenge, but I have faith you could do it! You should try it with the leftovers.
@@toypolloi I agree to a point. You just have to keep an eye out at toy fairs or even Ebay. You can buy a original windscreen on Ebay for $18.00 usd right now.
Back when I was 13 or 14 (I'm currently 46) I had the same missing/broken windshield. I got hold of a piece of clear perspex from a hardware store, using twist wire I made a frame for the windscreen at about what I though It would look like. I then flattened the wire out, used it as a template and cut the new windscreen out of the flat perspex. Then using a lot of boiling water, an appropriately large jar and a lot of burnt fingers I heated the perspex up and wrapped it around the jar. Not the most perfect work but I've still got it and it still feels pretty cool. My first repair/mod.
I used your Christmas Babel idea here and adapted it for my matchbox landspeeder and used the rounded container a cupcake came in to create a replacement windscreen.
Always love watching your vids! Apart from the nostalgia trip there are some useful modelling and resources tips you have. I am now mainly a Wargaming modeller. Making stuff for my games out of packaging and stuff like those baubles you used today. Your hints are brilliant and help a great deal. Thanks!
A really nice video! Your fix for the gear was really nice. It looks like it might hold for a good while. Those Christmas baubles really seem to be perfect for this! I think that the way to keep from getting the glue onto the windscreen shield is to first put down some removable tape around the bottom before you begin bonding the tabs on.
Im blown away ...your crazy talented man...i wish you would have shown me how to put those newer land speeder seats in the old one i been thinking about that for awhile now but didn't know if it was possible
Have you tried putting tape covering the original screen, cutting around the edges (and tabs), removing the tape as a single piece, and transferring it to the donor. Just another way to create a template. If you find problems with the tape curling up and sticking into a ball when you are transferring, start of by rubbing the tape across your jeans before starting, it will remove some of the stickiness.
Just bought a speeder that arrived yesterday, and I'll be trying a few of these techniques, although, I'll also be on the hunt for some springs, or at least better elastic bands.
Ah... my absolute favourite vintage Star Wars vehicle. If I only owned one vehicle - this would be it! I think maybe for spares and repairs the PotF reissue would be ideal. You could use it for the windscreen, spring mechanism, etc. Just a shame that the seats and gear stick don't match in colour.
Toy polloi!!! Your fixes are marvelous!!! You're an amazing Craftsman!!! I wish you all the best, and all the success you deserve!!! Thanks for the wonderful videos!!!!
Brilliant work yet again! I've done customs of really beat up landspeeders, but it's wonderful to see a lovely, clean restoration! Keep up the excellent work!
Nice use of those Christmas balls in that fix. Can't wait to see the video about the decals. When I try making custom decals they aren't the size I want them for some reason. Hope the video can teach me how to fix that. Keep it up.
Mega impressive I'm sure your skills would have stretched. To cutting out the notched parts with a dremel for the canopy. I was waiting for you to do it. Plastic weld is a great product.
Awesome job, Toy Polloi! Maybe next time you weld the tabs on, you may want to put masking tape over the windscreen to avoid getting weld on it, during placement of the tabs?
That Weldon will wick it's way up under the tape. It has less surface tension than water, so it runs and drips and creeps everywhere... I learned the hard way...
I have a landspeeder. I have those ornaments (70% off, yet- grabbed the whole box). I am going to look into 3d printing the seats- found out the library has a printer. Which also means finding a good pic of the seats (or several), so they can be recreated properly. Going to have to open it up and look at the mechanism, and see what I can do to improvise *ever* so slightly on the adhesive front if my gearshift is broken. Then... stickers. Ugh. On that front, I am going to be up the creek- no printer. Oh, on an unrelated, but still of interest note: CHROME PLATED PLASTIC! I know you keep hearing about "Ohh! Paint it black for more gloss!" I bought a Bandai 1/12 scale C-3PO recently. It is a ridiculously high gloss gold chrome- and guess what- the plastic directly underneath the plating is GREY. Not black, gloss black, or any other black. Just a neutral grey color.
I've got two of the diecast....neither has the "window" but one has a broken rear thruster but has both the characters and another has all good thrusters and great paint job but no characters.....so there a safe way to transfer the characters?
If you're ever looking for a good strong joint again or need to fill some gaps use ca glue and baking powder. You can either fill the gap with the powder and then drip some ca on it and then paint to fill gaps or put your ca in place and sprinkle the powder on. Either way you'll get a rock solid bond and with the added bonus that the baking powder cures the ca glue almost instantly
I feel like it's an indication that I've watched too many of your restoration videos when the first thought I had for the cockpit windshield was clear plastic christmas ornaments. lol
As for the replacement of the springs, you can also use some of those spings from cheap ballpens - I had replaced my original spings in my landspeeder in my childhood because I though those where kind of weak and wobbly and the speeder sits almost on the ground if you put figure in it. So I replaced them with spings from ballpens which are a little more firm so the speeder levitates even with figures in it - and don't worry about the mechanism, works fine with the new springs -mine are in it for over 40 years now.
Barely two minutes in and my mind is blown. I had both of these landspeeders as a kid (second hand) and never realised there was meant to be seats and a lever for the landing gear on the big one!
I found a 1995 tan land speeder for 1 buck and i only needed to make a wind shield so i cut one out of a plastic bottle and it looks good, I like star wars toys too, And i did not know it had a front trunk until now,
I made another off camera and it was perfect in the end. Just need to go slow with it. It's quite hard to film some of these things and film at the same time.
@@toypolloi I bet, most of my videos are just that, videoing something but not trying to work in front of it. I dont think l could do that l have enough problems doing it with out a camra in front of me! lol
As a lego fan, it pained me slighty to see the lego get destroyed, but at least it was an extremely common piece, and that it went towards fixing such an amazing toy! Excellent job, Toy Polloi!
My excellent performance again you do an excellent job but I would recommend using a smaller brush there are micro brushes that you can use their May here in the states and I think you're going to buy a man in the UK myself their work really fine for especially doing gluing up on the really fine points and they wouldn't have a problem instead of using it paint brush anyways cheers
Another brilliant fix! Nice to see the mighty 'Plastic Weld' in action. I swear by it - it's never let me down. I would, however, just have fixed the windscreen straight to the body using something like 'Clear-Fix', which is formulated for use with transparent parts, and is unreactive with them, so it doesn't stain. Is there any chance that you could make some new decals for the 'Speeder's interior? I have one, complete in all respects, bar the stickers. I doubt I'm alone in this. Cheers!
What I like about it is that it can be used to fix like to like, but also you can cement ABS (which most LEGO is made from) to Polystyrene, or polystyrene to Perspex (Plexiglass), etc. It won't, however, cement Polypropylene, or Polyethylene. I've used it on 1/76 tank kits, brushed on to exterior areas until it softens a bit, and then pressed a craft knife tip into it to recreate weld marks. On parts where a hatch cover fits into it's rebate, a tiny drop at one corner will flow round the whole join due to capilliary action, and dry instantly. So long as you remember to securely close the bottle when you're done, it will last months.
I would've used masking tape on the original windscreen (including the tabs), trimmed around the edges and then you've got a perfect template to lay over the bauble and cut out an almost exact replica, tabs and all.
3 things. 1. Why not use a marker to mark where you need to glue the tabs so you don't need to guess? 2. Why not cut the tabs into the windshield instead of having to glue it. 3. Seeing that the sampler one is half the size, could you just have the measurements you use for the larger piece? Thanks. Great video.
why didn't you just stick masking tape over the original windscreen, cut it to the exact shape then stick it to the borble and then simply cut around the masking tape? the same way Cos players make foam helmets
@@toypolloi I'll be doing by guess and by gosh, using this video as a guide. I have no idea where to find that brand of plastic weld here in the US, so, I am going to get creative.
Are there certain part numbers that should go with the original 1978 Kenner Land speeder, as I have noticed a big difference in the part numbers on the two different speeders I bought to use for parts. Also, on the upper portion of the speeder body, the parts numbers were the same, but the imprinted numbers looked totally different in the plastic. I appreciate any help.
Hi Dave. Please could you tell me at what length did you cut the piece of lego as I haven't got an unbroken gear stick / landing gear mechanism clip to go by as a template?
could have cut the ball a little longer then sand-shaped the brackets into the windscreen, would be a bit stronger and avoid the glue mishaps. May even save a little time.
Was hoping this might show how to re-attach the middle turbine fin at the back just like your donor machine. Mine broke off years ago. Any chance you could feature that at some point, please?
Hi Dave. Have you any plans on restoring vintage ghostbusters figures? Maybe adding lighting to the vintage firehouse? I'm looking for ideas. Cheers Dave. Jon.
when i see all that difficult cutting with the dremel i feel an ultrasonic cutter would be a great addition to your toolbox... they work great on all kinds of plastics and are mor versatile and finer then the cutoff-wheel...
Longtime fan of your videos! This one in particular was invaluable in helping my resurrect my old (from childhood) landspeeder. The only pieces still missing are the windscreen (which this vid will help with, too!) and the snapped-off top/midde turbine on the back of the speeder. I recently picked up a replacement turbine, but I'm a bit stumped on how to best attach it, and I wonder if you had any suggestions?
@@toypolloi Thanks! And the "fin" support strut? (I should have specified that was missing!) I'm concerned that just afixing a vertical bit of plastic (shaped accordingly) between the body and the turbine would be a bit flimsy (though I suppose that's why these turbines seem to snap off in the first place).
Have you thought about getting a 3D printer to reproduce the little missing bits? They may be coming down in price to the point where it's actually a practical solution.
I used to love the amazing suspension on that toy. That simple spring loaded mechanism absolutely nailed it as far as making it look like it was gliding.
I put up all my vehicles from star wars on the wall like the one video you showed. That’s for the idea. Between you and retro I’m fixing toys and having a lot of fun! Thanks brother.
That is awesome!
Just received a speeder from eBay today and thanks to this video I had no problem disassembling, cleaning, replacing a spring and putting it back together. Great stuff. Need to find some replacement stickers for it now. All I have is the one under the hood compartment.
Watching your videos always make me say "why in the hell didn't I think about doing that" keep up the great work my friend!
Amazing work! I don't know what's the best part; your final product or watching you make that final product.
Not sure how old this post is. Excellent video by the way. Tried the windshield hack. Worked great. I. Staryed up a little bit. And cut the tabs from the same piece as the windshield. No welding needed.
I enjoy your channel very much. On this particular fix, I would recommend leaving the plastic for the tabs during the initial cut.
These vids are helping me re-aquaint myself with ideas I had when used to build model cars etc. My Mom was always asking why are you saving those plastic caps and why do you want my old lipstick cases and I even used to save the ball from roll on deodorant, they made like little superballs really bounced great! I I think I have some sort of clear plastic domes I was saving for some sort of bubble top fpr some modern space age cars I had. I always thought have the fun of all this stuff was finding how many things around the house you could use for something...! Thank you for these!
Excellent idea from Alexander and almost perfectly executed Dave. Bet you turned the air blue when your second attempt had another seepage of plastic weld.
I have the first PaliToy Sand Speeder, but it has been serviced by a Tusken Raider.
Also, I noticed your subscriptions reached 25K! Awesome! I hope future viewers realize the value of your vids and subscribe to support this channel.
Wow, awesome ingenuity for the windscreens. Question - do you think it would be possible to have left some plastic on either end of the windscreens that you cut and actually use that material to cut the tabs into the shape as well so it's one unified piece? I know it would be more of a challenge, but I have faith you could do it! You should try it with the leftovers.
The landspeeder windscreen still remains the only thing missing from my vintage star wars die cast collection. Great fix
Not anymore :D
I would still try to source out an original windscreen if you can.
I think there are way more speeders out there without screens. So not everyone will be able to find or afford to buy one.
@@toypolloi I agree to a point. You just have to keep an eye out at toy fairs or even Ebay. You can buy a original windscreen on Ebay for $18.00 usd right now.
Back when I was 13 or 14 (I'm currently 46) I had the same missing/broken windshield. I got hold of a piece of clear perspex from a hardware store, using twist wire I made a frame for the windscreen at about what I though It would look like. I then flattened the wire out, used it as a template and cut the new windscreen out of the flat perspex. Then using a lot of boiling water, an appropriately large jar and a lot of burnt fingers I heated the perspex up and wrapped it around the jar. Not the most perfect work but I've still got it and it still feels pretty cool. My first repair/mod.
Everyone that i watch that do amazing restoration are from the UK
Not sure why that is. But I guess we have a history of make do and mend. It's just a fun hobby to have. Cheers
Fantastic idea for new windshields !!! Such quality!
Genius idea using make it yourself xmas baubles as the windscreen.
I don't know how I missed this vid when it came out. Great fix!
Two great fixes in one video, Dave!
But oh how I winced when you mentioned the Plastic Weld finger mark… I’ve been there too!
I think I use to save the little clear plastic ball containers from the gum ball machine to make space helmets for GI Joes etc.
Unbelievable. Have followed your videos for a few of my vintage restorations and am constantly amazed at your eye for detail and creativity.
Cool, thanks!
Damn! My heart broke when the plastic weld got on the bigger canopy. Son-of-a....!
Wonderful fixes.
THIS was my favorite vehicle from the LEGACY size figures
I used your Christmas Babel idea here and adapted it for my matchbox landspeeder and used the rounded container a cupcake came in to create a replacement windscreen.
nice!
i think it looked better the small one in the diecast, great fix!
You really are remarkable at improvising these fixes. I'm really pleased to watch your vids and look forward to them, Dave. Nice.
Excellent job . You really are to toy man. Can't wait to see what's next.
Genius, as always 👍 I would never have thought of using a christmas ball.
Always love watching your vids! Apart from the nostalgia trip there are some useful modelling and resources tips you have.
I am now mainly a Wargaming modeller. Making stuff for my games out of packaging and stuff like those baubles you used today. Your hints are brilliant and help a great deal. Thanks!
A really nice video! Your fix for the gear was really nice. It looks like it might hold for a good while. Those Christmas baubles really seem to be perfect for this! I think that the way to keep from getting the glue onto the windscreen shield is to first put down some removable tape around the bottom before you begin bonding the tabs on.
Another great fix. I need at least one of each of these myself. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome restoration toy polloi and what a great shout the xmas bauble idea is genius 👍👍👍👍
You need sell "A bit fiddly." T-Shirts!
Ingenious! Fantastic video man! I'm glad you showed the baubles because I'm getting alot of diorama ideas from looking at these....good job!
I would've never thought of this solution, months would pass by and I'd still be staring at a speeder without a windshield
I once owned the diecast landspeeder as a kid. I think the smaller windscreen matches the original, but my memory might betray me here :-) Nice work!
Im blown away ...your crazy talented man...i wish you would have shown me how to put those newer land speeder seats in the old one i been thinking about that for awhile now but didn't know if it was possible
Have you tried putting tape covering the original screen, cutting around the edges (and tabs), removing the tape as a single piece, and transferring it to the donor. Just another way to create a template. If you find problems with the tape curling up and sticking into a ball when you are transferring, start of by rubbing the tape across your jeans before starting, it will remove some of the stickiness.
Just bought a speeder that arrived yesterday, and I'll be trying a few of these techniques, although, I'll also be on the hunt for some springs, or at least better elastic bands.
Elastic bands, or just some elastic tied in a loop will work just as well if you can't find any springs.
I like your "busy" music. :)
Terrific job, sir!
Your so patient I would of been swearing and throwing stuff everywhere 👍🏻🇦🇺
Ah... my absolute favourite vintage Star Wars vehicle. If I only owned one vehicle - this would be it! I think maybe for spares and repairs the PotF reissue would be ideal. You could use it for the windscreen, spring mechanism, etc. Just a shame that the seats and gear stick don't match in colour.
AMazing as always man. Looks so great.
Glad you like it!
Fantastic job i just started watching and fascinated how you get round the problems 👍👌
VERY NICE, DAMN I HAD THEM BOTH... 👍👍👊
Toy polloi!!! Your fixes are marvelous!!! You're an amazing Craftsman!!! I wish you all the best, and all the success you deserve!!! Thanks for the wonderful videos!!!!
Brilliant work yet again! I've done customs of really beat up landspeeders, but it's wonderful to see a lovely, clean restoration! Keep up the excellent work!
Nice use of those Christmas balls in that fix. Can't wait to see the video about the decals. When I try making custom decals they aren't the size I want them for some reason. Hope the video can teach me how to fix that. Keep it up.
Mega impressive I'm sure your skills would have stretched. To cutting out the notched parts with a dremel for the canopy. I was waiting for you to do it. Plastic weld is a great product.
Awesome job, Toy Polloi! Maybe next time you weld the tabs on, you may want to put masking tape over the windscreen to avoid getting weld on it, during placement of the tabs?
That Weldon will wick it's way up under the tape. It has less surface tension than water, so it runs and drips and creeps everywhere... I learned the hard way...
I have a landspeeder. I have those ornaments (70% off, yet- grabbed the whole box). I am going to look into 3d printing the seats- found out the library has a printer. Which also means finding a good pic of the seats (or several), so they can be recreated properly. Going to have to open it up and look at the mechanism, and see what I can do to improvise *ever* so slightly on the adhesive front if my gearshift is broken.
Then... stickers. Ugh. On that front, I am going to be up the creek- no printer.
Oh, on an unrelated, but still of interest note: CHROME PLATED PLASTIC! I know you keep hearing about "Ohh! Paint it black for more gloss!" I bought a Bandai 1/12 scale C-3PO recently. It is a ridiculously high gloss gold chrome- and guess what- the plastic directly underneath the plating is GREY. Not black, gloss black, or any other black. Just a neutral grey color.
I've got two of the diecast....neither has the "window" but one has a broken rear thruster but has both the characters and another has all good thrusters and great paint job but no characters.....so there a safe way to transfer the characters?
If you're ever looking for a good strong joint again or need to fill some gaps use ca glue and baking powder. You can either fill the gap with the powder and then drip some ca on it and then paint to fill gaps or put your ca in place and sprinkle the powder on. Either way you'll get a rock solid bond and with the added bonus that the baking powder cures the ca glue almost instantly
Very well done!, i will be waiting the video for the stickers!
Cool project!
Put tape on old one and trim evenly. Then transfer to new one. Perfect outline.
Another great video should apply for a job at Audi with the 4 spring toy technique
Audi 4 I get ya.
Awh man I'm laaaate! Love the landspeeders though, and you rocked it as always~
Well done.
awesome! i had a similar idea but using bath bomb molds .... of course i needed you to show me how to do it haha
Great fix, try using masking tape to cover the windshield to avoid those mistakes.
I feel like it's an indication that I've watched too many of your restoration videos when the first thought I had for the cockpit windshield was clear plastic christmas ornaments. lol
As for the replacement of the springs, you can also use some of those spings from cheap ballpens - I had replaced my original spings in my landspeeder in my childhood because I though those where kind of weak and wobbly and the speeder sits almost on the ground if you put figure in it. So I replaced them with spings from ballpens which are a little more firm so the speeder levitates even with figures in it - and don't worry about the mechanism, works fine with the new springs -mine are in it for over 40 years now.
Beautiful
Barely two minutes in and my mind is blown. I had both of these landspeeders as a kid (second hand) and never realised there was meant to be seats and a lever for the landing gear on the big one!
Great tips as always! Nice one.
Great idea!!!
I found a 1995 tan land speeder for 1 buck and i only needed to make a wind shield so i cut one out of a plastic bottle and it looks good, I like star wars toys too, And i did not know it had a front trunk until now,
O_O outstanding. Huge congrats !
really great
great work once again!! this has made my day!!
My son has one of those.
If you want to glue clear plastics without the misting try Humbrol Clearfix. It's designed not to mist clear stuff.
Great video, dont worry about the mistake it still looks great!!👍☯️👍
I made another off camera and it was perfect in the end. Just need to go slow with it. It's quite hard to film some of these things and film at the same time.
@@toypolloi
I bet, most of my videos are just that, videoing something but not trying to work in front of it. I dont think l could do that l have enough problems doing it with out a camra in front of me! lol
Another brilliant toy restoration Toy Polloi Green bauble for Cpt Zargons visor?...!
nice n entertaining as always
As a lego fan, it pained me slighty to see the lego get destroyed, but at least it was an extremely common piece, and that it went towards fixing such an amazing toy! Excellent job, Toy Polloi!
@Cr6479 Hey, its okay! I have watched his other videos.
My excellent performance again you do an excellent job but I would recommend using a smaller brush there are micro brushes that you can use their May here in the states and I think you're going to buy a man in the UK myself their work really fine for especially doing gluing up on the really fine points and they wouldn't have a problem instead of using it paint brush anyways cheers
I was totally thinking you were gonna dremel out most of the lip that connected the ornament together to make the tabs.
awesome
Wild. I have an original blk seat for it.
Would glazing the windscreen with clear resin make the scratches or marks disappear. Resin works on resin. Maybe something to play around with
Another brilliant fix! Nice to see the mighty 'Plastic Weld' in action. I swear by it - it's never let me down. I would, however, just have fixed the windscreen straight to the body using something like 'Clear-Fix', which is formulated for use with transparent parts, and is unreactive with them, so it doesn't stain. Is there any chance that you could make some new decals for the 'Speeder's interior? I have one, complete in all respects, bar the stickers. I doubt I'm alone in this. Cheers!
It works great on some plastics. There are still a few types that it fails on. But in this case, it's perfect.
What I like about it is that it can be used to fix like to like, but also you can cement ABS (which most LEGO is made from) to Polystyrene, or polystyrene to Perspex (Plexiglass), etc. It won't, however, cement Polypropylene, or Polyethylene. I've used it on 1/76 tank kits, brushed on to exterior areas until it softens a bit, and then pressed a craft knife tip into it to recreate weld marks. On parts where a hatch cover fits into it's rebate, a tiny drop at one corner will flow round the whole join due to capilliary action, and dry instantly. So long as you remember to securely close the bottle when you're done, it will last months.
I would've used masking tape on the original windscreen (including the tabs), trimmed around the edges and then you've got a perfect template to lay over the bauble and cut out an almost exact replica, tabs and all.
Would a plastic buffing compound on your Dremel buffing wheel help eliminate the plastic weld imperfections ?
Great job that's the same repair I made to mine....Any way to remove the yellowing from the windshield mine looks really bad?????
I remember the windshield on the die cast version always was very low, as you say they would get sand in their faces.
3 things. 1. Why not use a marker to mark where you need to glue the tabs so you don't need to guess?
2. Why not cut the tabs into the windshield instead of having to glue it.
3. Seeing that the sampler one is half the size, could you just have the measurements you use for the larger piece?
Thanks. Great video.
Danke :)
why didn't you just stick masking tape over the original windscreen, cut it to the exact shape then stick it to the borble and then simply cut around the masking tape? the same way Cos players make foam helmets
In here to say the same. He could have figured the tabs into that as well and cut them out at the same time instead of having to glue them on.
I showed measurements as not everyone will have an original screen to work from. Cheers
@@toypolloi I'll be doing by guess and by gosh, using this video as a guide.
I have no idea where to find that brand of plastic weld here in the US, so, I am going to get creative.
@@toypolloi mic drop!!
That would work, but at the end of the day ways to skin a cat
Have you ever seen the movie HELP with the Beatles?
John: "Not the wheel!"
The Jeweler: "Even the House Of Hanover had the wheel"
Are there certain part numbers that should go with the original 1978 Kenner Land speeder, as I have noticed a big difference in the part numbers on the two different speeders I bought to use for parts. Also, on the upper portion of the speeder body, the parts numbers were the same, but the imprinted numbers looked totally different in the plastic. I appreciate any help.
Had to wait till 10:12 into the video before I could take my first shot!
Hi Dave. Please could you tell me at what length did you cut the piece of lego as I haven't got an unbroken gear stick / landing gear mechanism clip to go by as a template?
I would guess about an inch. But without taking one apart I can't say precisely. Just do what looks good.
could have cut the ball a little longer then sand-shaped the brackets into the windscreen, would be a bit stronger and avoid the glue mishaps. May even save a little time.
Was hoping this might show how to re-attach the middle turbine fin at the back just like your donor machine. Mine broke off years ago. Any chance you could feature that at some point, please?
Use the plastic weld. That should give the strongest join.
Hi Dave. Have you any plans on restoring vintage ghostbusters figures? Maybe adding lighting to the vintage firehouse? I'm looking for ideas. Cheers Dave. Jon.
I have some waiting to be worked on. I'm trying to find a good way to fix the proton pack clips. I also have a ecto 1 that I want to customize.
@@toypolloi great stuff. I can't wait. I just recently purchased the firehouse since having one as a kid 😁
when i see all that difficult cutting with the dremel i feel an ultrasonic cutter would be a great addition to your toolbox... they work great on all kinds of plastics and are mor versatile and finer then the cutoff-wheel...
Longtime fan of your videos! This one in particular was invaluable in helping my resurrect my old (from childhood) landspeeder. The only pieces still missing are the windscreen (which this vid will help with, too!) and the snapped-off top/midde turbine on the back of the speeder. I recently picked up a replacement turbine, but I'm a bit stumped on how to best attach it, and I wonder if you had any suggestions?
Thanks. Plastic weld should fix it. It's the right kind of plastic.
@@toypolloi Thanks! And the "fin" support strut? (I should have specified that was missing!) I'm concerned that just afixing a vertical bit of plastic (shaped accordingly) between the body and the turbine would be a bit flimsy (though I suppose that's why these turbines seem to snap off in the first place).
You can make that out of styrene sheet. If it feels to thin, pin it as well. I show this in many fixes.
Have you thought about getting a 3D printer to reproduce the little missing bits? They may be coming down in price to the point where it's actually a practical solution.
I have thought about it for myself. But I try to show fixes anyone can do without the need for expensive equipment or crazy skills. Cheers
@@toypolloi Makes sense! Truly enjoy watching the channel. Lots of great information. Thanks for doing it.