This has got to be the best DIY video I have ever had to use. Perfectly cut/dry, not too much unneeded info, not one single question or issue when finished. THANK YOU!
First time doing anything under the hood myself so I was a little intimidated lol. This is by far one of the best DIY video hands down. I’m proud to say I the replacement went smoothly. So smooth in fact I went a step further and replaced my spark plugs while I was at it. Definitely feeling a sense of accomplishment and that’s all thanks to you!! Keep up the great content and God Bless!!
Straight and to the point! I will be doing this exact replacement in a couple hours! $23 for the gasket and DIY sounds better than $295 at the shop. Thank you tons for this video!! Got a new sub.
This is a perfect example of professionalism !!! I wish I can say I have seen a better,clearer video than this but I honestly can't , this is so clear I didn't have to wonder about anything straight to the point with ZERO blah,blah,blah,,,Thank You so much for this vid man,, hope to see more !!
Thank you so much for this video, and thank you again for your attention to detail and how descriptive you are. Extremely helpful. Never even thought I'd do a valve cover gasket and now I feel very comfortable doing it after watching this
Thanks for the video and the instructions on bolt tightening order and torque specs. I just did this on my 2011 Forte (even same color as yours) with 199k miles after watching you. It has needed it for a while as I could always smell burning oil after driving and there was evidence of seepage at the back side. Piece of cake. Inside still looked like a new engine.
Thanks, man. Your video helped me find the right gasket for my customer’s car! Everywhere I looked was the same as the first one you bought. You got me out of a bind
This was a great help. One thing, though. The reason the 1st gasket didn't fit, was the gasket is different for 2010 and 2011. I got the Mehle gasket for my car, a 2010. the part was the vs50556. Had the same problem with improper fit. If you look up the gasket for the 2011 it's the vs50555. Even though mine is a 2010, they must have changed valve covers half way thru the year. My car a 2010, needed the 2011 gasket.
Awesome! Great simple follow along video that I needed to know from you as the right guy .. 😁 Thanks! For making it a quality time video and being a true guy of real help... That's what makes great good Americans that I can be proud of...
Thanks for the heads up on the gasket. I had bought the Fel-Pro one but took it back box unopen and got the Mahle...............EDIT...............I had to go back and get the Fel-Pro once I had my cover off. If you have shouldered bolts use the Mahle. If you have straight regular bolts use the Fel-Pro.......EDIT AGAIN 12/2/22...........FelPro Gaket leaked. even though was tight to spec. Using the Mahle this time for the cover with non shouldered bolts. Mahle part # VS50556
I had the very same issue. I took my valve cover and the gasket wouldn't fit. I had to get the one with the spark plug gasket attached to the outer layer.
Gotta do my ol lady's valve cover gasket leaking in same spot yours was and your video is perfectly explained not rushed in detail good camera angle everything not a lot of blah blah blah 100% mane. Well done now I know I can do her without a sweat and I'ma do the cam sensor as well easy peasy 😊
10:21 A lot of sources say NOT to use abrasives like Scotch-Brite or Roloc discs for cleaning / prepping gasket surfaces. The aluminum particles that are embedded in the pads will inevitably cause damage to the engine . It is suggested to use brake cleaner/Acetone & metal or plastic razor to prep sealing surfaces. Or you mask the open top of the engine & do a oil change afterwards.
Old red scotch brite pads are perfectly fine and people have been using them forever successfully, including myself. I work at an Acura dealership and thats all the mechanics use…we have boxes on boxes of it for this very reason. Idk what form of scotch brite you think I’m referring too, but a regular soft red scotch brite pad shouldn’t be scraping up particles of aluminum or anything for that matter, other than old gasket material. That said…there are other methods you can utilize successfully. I don’t like metal blades, yes they can be used successfully….although in my opinion metal razor blades are aggressive, and they can definitely scar up the surface and scrape up shavings/particles. If aluminum particles are your concern, scraping with a metal razor blade by far has the greatest chance of doing this. I do like plastic razor blades. Scotch brite is the go to and plastic razor blades for anything stubborn IMO.
I have a question. I have seen elsewhere that if you remove the sparkplug and you see that you have oil on the sparkplug, that likely means you need to replace o-rings/valve cover gasket, but that also means that by removing the sparkplug you are allowing oil to then drain down into the cylinder. I removed the sparkplug before I realized that oil had gotten onto the sparkplug, and now I am worried that oil may damage the area below where the sparkplug was located. Will this cause damage to my engine? I wish I had dabbed the oil or siphoned the oil out of the well before removing the sparkplugs, but I didn't know. Do you have any advice on how to remove oil that may have drained further downward once I removed my oily spark plugs? Thank you for the great video. I will soon be replacing the gasket
In a shop environment, 9 times out of 10 they are just gonna pull the plug out and if a drop of oil happens to fall down, so be it. Typically the amount of oil in the cylinder surrounding the spark plug is minimal, and if a drop or two happen to drip down..it isn't going to harm anything. What you can do to try and avoid it is roll a few paper towels up nice and tight, and send it down the spark plug tube and spin it around. You can do this both before and after removing the plug, just make sure you don't go crazy when the plug is removed so you don't rip off any paper towel. You can also do this with a microfiber cloth to avoid that possibility. This is essentially "dabbing" the oil out like you mentioned. You can also lightly blow compressed air in the cylinder before wiping it out to get most of the sitting oil blown out.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I saw in a separate video that you can supposedly also use brake cleaner spray to spray down into the spark plug tube after you have dabbed the oil out and have used the compressed air. Would you advise against using brake cleaner to help clean the spark plug tube? Thanks again
@@pauldavis7318 brake cleaner is great & effective for cleaning up oil, but personally I would say steer away from spraying it in the tube, it might create more of a mess than actually help.
Want to thank you on such an informative video. I am assembling all the tools necessary and all I need is a torque wrench. Do you have any recommendations on which torque wrench to buy that wont break the bank? I dont know whether to buy the 1/4" or the 3/8" drive for this job. I do have a 1/4" & 3/8" drive socket set with ratchet , 40 pieces & a seperate spark plug extension(I have changed the spark plugs before). An additional quesiton I have is do I need to get an additional extension for the torque wrench recommended? Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you again for such a good video.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! And the size doesn’t matter as much….in regards to 3/8 or 1/4…as it does the range of inch and/or foot pounds. You just want to make sure the wrench covers all the necessary torque values you need. I personally like having all of them available, but its not really necessary if you aren’t using them regularly. I would stay away from Craftsman torque wrenches, I’ve had multiple and they always give me problems pretty quickly, unfortunately. If you aren’t using the torque wrench frequently or regularly I would maybe suggest renting them from Autozone. You put a deposit on the loaner tool, then you get it all back when your done. That way its free, and you get to use the tool you need with no strings attached. As far as the extension, you can use any extension you want really, i think i used an 8” or 10” on this!
Bring old school, we always put a thin layer of the blue RTV on both sides of the gasket, or mating surfaces. You mentioned cleaning off that black tar, so did that mean the factory had sealed all around the gasket perimeter, and if so why didn't you do the same? It didn't appear to have any around the spark plug cavity. BTW, great video ❤
So first thing amazing video and walkthrough secondly tho i did my spark plugs and noticed oil In one of them thit should fix this right? alot people saying its the gaskets. My question do you know how to clean in the spark plug since oil is in it also no leaks or misfires yet thankfully any advice nuch appreciated.
Thanks man, I appreciate it! But yea the spark plug seals (which are part of the valve cover gasket) should solve the issue. Honestly there probably isn’t gonna be a lot of oil in there that you can clean, but you can roll a couple paper towels up long-ways and gently spin it around in the cylinder to clean any remaining oil in there. Clean the coil boots good too cause they probably will have more oil than anything.
So on the rtv, does it only go on the passenger side by the timing chane, or should some be applied to the drivers side as well? Should i clean my old valve cover with brake clean? It won't damage anything i am hoping.
Only on passenger side. If it needed to be anywhere else, I would have mentioned it. The RTV is meant to fill in any gapping that's between the valve cover/and the timing chain cover, which the VCG rubber can't quite reach deeply into and perfectly fill. Thats why RTV is always outlined to be put on the timing cover when doing a VCG. Outside of that it’s simply not needed, it will seal perfectly fine without RTV anywhere else, and of course they don’t come with RTV anywhere else from factory. And brake cleaner isn’t going to damage the valve cover.
I have a question what if someone doesn't have a torque wrench could they just tighten them with a socket wrench on a 2012 Kia forte because I'm going to be doing my valve cover gaskets and that is the reason I am asking anyway thanks for making such a great video it really is going to help me in replacing my valve cover on my 2012 Kia forte keep up the awesome UA-cam videos
Something like a valve cover gasket, In my opinion it’s best to torque it. Anything that involves a gasket/seal should really be torqued. You can rent a torque wrench for free from autozone. That said….there are many things you can get away without torquing, even with some experience you could do a valve cover gasket without one and get away with it, but ideally I still think torquing is ideal and would recommend going renting one for the job.
Excellent how to video. Covered all the bases. One question I have is having an extension on a torque wrench, will that throw off the measured torque? Thanks!
Appreciate the comment. But a straight extension should have no effect on torque specs. If you had a swivel or something like that on the extension setup that could potentially affect torque value. But any straight extension should have no change on anything.
Espero que puedas entender lo que digo, Yo batallé mucho para encontrar la parte correcta con el número de parte que has dado me has ayudado muchísimo thank you so much
Cuando compre el repuesto para eso, me pidieron el numero de chassis y en la computadora busco antes de vendermelo, fue en la agencia de Kia aqui en mi pais, el mecanico me dijo que compre de KIA y asi lo hice, el lunes veremos que onda..! no fue caro para nada, ni tampoco la reparacion sera por el presupuesto que me paso. tengo un Cerato 1.6 y esta teniendo esas mismas filtraciones.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee gracias por el video me salvó el día y lo mejor es que me querían vender la pieza que no era y al ver el video, tuve que enseñarle el video al vendedor para que entendiera.
@TheOriginalBeeCee Why not use The Right Stuff in any other area? Why just in those 2 spots? Couldn't I use that all around and it would be okay or does it have to be just in those 2 spots?
The RTV is meant to fill in any gapping that's between the valve cover/and the timing chain cover, which the VCG rubber can't quite reach deeply into and perfectly fill. Thats why RTV is always outlined to be put on the timing cover when doing a VCG. Outside of that it’s simply not needed, it will seal perfectly fine without RTV anywhere else, and of course they don’t come with RTV on the cover from factory.
Thank you so much bruh the gasket autozone an o'really was says the one that geos to the 2010 kai forte 2.4L was the VS50556 which did not fit at all but the 2011 one did for me the VS50555.
Hello , thanks for this video I'm doing headgasket job in this car but i can't find a lot of info about this car. I'm looking for the tq specs of the head.
I did this same process now after installation the engine only runs when hose is disconnected from pcv valve… bought new valve and still same issue… engine only runs when hose isn’t connected to anything… what could it b?
Check out this video, should fall more in line with your application: 2011-2015 Kia Optima Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (2.4L GDI) ua-cam.com/video/AhYCRAkO8z0/v-deo.html
Just answered this is another recent comment: Check out this video, should fall more in line with your application: 2011-2015 Kia Optima Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (2.4L GDI) ua-cam.com/video/AhYCRAkO8z0/v-deo.html
A torque wrench is definitely something I would suggest for a valve cover gasket job. I actually have Craftsman torque wrenches, which I’ve actually had problems with. The lock on them breaks extremely easily. But autozone rents torque wrenches, you can always rent one for free to get the job done!
Great video, still seems a bit daunting to me. If I was a bit braver I would do it myself but right now I think I’ll have a mechanic do it for me. Edit: the shop is charging 200 where I could do it myself for 50 (would be cheaper if I had the tools) I’m doing it myself this weekend haha
Hahaha. Its not that hard. Take your time & staying organized are half the battle. If you can manage that it will probably go a lot smoother than you think!
It wouldn’t cause “consumption”, as in the motor burning oil, etc. These motors are notorious for burning oil. This car had the oil consumption issue. Ive seen this car loose over a quart of oil in a 3000 mile oil change interval. But no, the VCG leaking is a separate issue from the oil consumption issue with these motors. Kia even had recalls for this issue, but was very picky & choosy on actually qualifying for the recall.
@@dearaminou4726 engines don’t have to smoke to consume oil/have something wrong. I’m not quite sure what the issue is directly, been a while since I looked into it. But you can Google search terms like “kia motor burning oil” and/or “Kia engine recall” etc., and you can find a good amount of information and insight regarding these issues.
Whats up man. This is not my vehicle, I only did the job on it....so I’m not overly familiar with it. I would suggest doing some Googling on the code in relation to the car, so search something like “p0205 kia forte” and see what you come up with. Couldn’t hurt to take a look under the hood as well if you haven’t already and see if anything sticks out.
Local parts stores typically stock both and have them both on hand, at least advance does…this is one i would just pay a few extra bucks for and get locally. I would call, see if they have both in stock, if they do…do the job, and once you have the original gasket off and in hand…go to the store with it and match it up to get the right one the first time.
It's probably just varnish. As long as there is no build-up, or sludge, or any areas where you can scoop some out with your finger, you should be fine. Some suggest switching to a synthetic oil to help clean it up over time, but I can't personally confirm how effective that would be.
Thanks for the comment! This is not my vehicle although, I only did the job on it. If I ever have the opportunity to do the job though, I would be happy to do a video on it.
OEMTOOLS 25313 Door Panel Remover, Constructed from High Carbon Steel for Easy Door Panel Removals, Won’t Damage Upholstery, Useful Auto-Trim Removal Tool a.co/d/ik84a9W
I just had this situation like two days ago I thank you for this video very hopeful!! Could be because I’m not losing any Power steering fluid. Going to look at it soon thanks men
This is precisely what my Cerato needs right now! , too bad i dont have the tools nor the cojones to do it , so i spoke my mechanic and going to take the car to the shop this monday. got the replacement from the KIA dealership here in my city using the Chassis number! so i hope theres no mistake ! lol
This has got to be the best DIY video I have ever had to use. Perfectly cut/dry, not too much unneeded info, not one single question or issue when finished. THANK YOU!
Thank you so much for the comment! 🙏
This guy has to be awarded for the best DIY video maker. Nice and well done.
I truly appreciate your comment! Thank you!! 🙏🙏
First time doing anything under the hood myself so I was a little intimidated lol. This is by far one of the best DIY video hands down. I’m proud to say I the replacement went smoothly. So smooth in fact I went a step further and replaced my spark plugs while I was at it. Definitely feeling a sense of accomplishment and that’s all thanks to you!! Keep up the great content and God Bless!!
Awesome! Great to hear. I appreciate the comment 🙏🙏🙏
Straight and to the point! I will be doing this exact replacement in a couple hours! $23 for the gasket and DIY sounds better than $295 at the shop. Thank you tons for this video!! Got a new sub.
Appreciate it man!! Good luck with the job!!!
This is a perfect example of professionalism !!! I wish I can say I have seen a better,clearer video than this but I honestly can't , this is so clear I didn't have to wonder about anything straight to the point with ZERO blah,blah,blah,,,Thank You so much for this vid man,, hope to see more !!
Thank you much for your comment! I truly appreciate it!!!
Wow, one of the best if not the best complete start to end video I have seen , thanks dude ! you the man
Thanks man! I truly appreciate the comment 🙏🙏
I installed the valve cover today. Thank you so much for your video. Everything went smoothly but very messy. No leaks or check engine light.
great to hear! Appreciate the comment!
this is the best DiY Video simple and straight up
Appreciate the comment! Thank you!!
Thank you so much for this video, and thank you again for your attention to detail and how descriptive you are. Extremely helpful. Never even thought I'd do a valve cover gasket and now I feel very comfortable doing it after watching this
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad my video could help ease your mind about doing the job 😊
Thanks for the video and the instructions on bolt tightening order and torque specs. I just did this on my 2011 Forte (even same color as yours) with 199k miles after watching you. It has needed it for a while as I could always smell burning oil after driving and there was evidence of seepage at the back side. Piece of cake. Inside still looked like a new engine.
awesome! Glad you got it done!!
Thanks, man. Your video helped me find the right gasket for my customer’s car! Everywhere I looked was the same as the first one you bought. You got me out of a bind
Awesome man! Glad it helped 🙏
This was a great help. One thing, though. The reason the 1st gasket didn't fit, was the gasket is different for 2010 and 2011. I got the Mehle gasket for my car, a 2010. the part was the vs50556. Had the same problem with improper fit. If you look up the gasket for the 2011 it's the vs50555. Even though mine is a 2010, they must have changed valve covers half way thru the year. My car a 2010, needed the 2011 gasket.
Good insight 👍
the best it is always to buy it from the Dealership's part department, cuz they ask you the chassis number of your car to begin with.
Thanks man i was about to this on my own after work on a friday. Ill start her up tomorrow.
You are the best, this video did help me a lot I just saved 200$ thank you very much!!!
Awesome I appreciate the comment!
Great video, great camera work and quality. Thanks for going through every step!
Thanks man I appreciate the comment!!
Excellent step by step video. Wish you had a timing chain replacement video on this same engine.
Appreciate it! not my vehicle though, that’s only something I would get into on my own projects lol. I wouldn’t dig that deep on a customer vehicle.
Awesome! Great simple follow along video that I needed to know from you as the right guy .. 😁 Thanks! For making it a quality time video and being a true guy of real help... That's what makes great good Americans that I can be proud of...
Thanks for the comment 🙏
Thanks for the heads up on the gasket. I had bought the Fel-Pro one but took it back box unopen and got the Mahle...............EDIT...............I had to go back and get the Fel-Pro once I had my cover off. If you have shouldered bolts use the Mahle. If you have straight regular bolts use the Fel-Pro.......EDIT AGAIN 12/2/22...........FelPro Gaket leaked. even though was tight to spec. Using the Mahle this time for the cover with non shouldered bolts. Mahle part # VS50556
Glad it helped man!
I had the very same issue. I took my valve cover and the gasket wouldn't fit. I had to get the one with the spark plug gasket attached to the outer layer.
Absolutely perfect video for this job. Couldn’t have made it easier for us. Thank you!
Thank you for the comment! Definitely appreciate it!!!
Gotta do my ol lady's valve cover gasket leaking in same spot yours was and your video is perfectly explained not rushed in detail good camera angle everything not a lot of blah blah blah 100% mane. Well done now I know I can do her without a sweat and I'ma do the cam sensor as well easy peasy 😊
Awesome man! I appreciate the comment!! Good luck with the job 🤙🤙
You make it easy and I like you awareness about details , thank you bro
Thank you for the comment man 🙏
10:21 A lot of sources say NOT to use abrasives like Scotch-Brite or Roloc discs for cleaning / prepping gasket surfaces. The aluminum particles that are embedded in the pads will inevitably cause damage to the engine . It is suggested to use brake cleaner/Acetone & metal or plastic razor to prep sealing surfaces. Or you mask the open top of the engine & do a oil change afterwards.
Old red scotch brite pads are perfectly fine and people have been using them forever successfully, including myself. I work at an Acura dealership and thats all the mechanics use…we have boxes on boxes of it for this very reason.
Idk what form of scotch brite you think I’m referring too, but a regular soft red scotch brite pad shouldn’t be scraping up particles of aluminum or anything for that matter, other than old gasket material. That said…there are other methods you can utilize successfully. I don’t like metal blades, yes they can be used successfully….although in my opinion metal razor blades are aggressive, and they can definitely scar up the surface and scrape up shavings/particles. If aluminum particles are your concern, scraping with a metal razor blade by far has the greatest chance of doing this. I do like plastic razor blades. Scotch brite is the go to and plastic razor blades for anything stubborn IMO.
Professional level teaching
Appreciate it man 🙏
I have a question. I have seen elsewhere that if you remove the sparkplug and you see that you have oil on the sparkplug, that likely means you need to replace o-rings/valve cover gasket, but that also means that by removing the sparkplug you are allowing oil to then drain down into the cylinder. I removed the sparkplug before I realized that oil had gotten onto the sparkplug, and now I am worried that oil may damage the area below where the sparkplug was located. Will this cause damage to my engine? I wish I had dabbed the oil or siphoned the oil out of the well before removing the sparkplugs, but I didn't know. Do you have any advice on how to remove oil that may have drained further downward once I removed my oily spark plugs? Thank you for the great video. I will soon be replacing the gasket
In a shop environment, 9 times out of 10 they are just gonna pull the plug out and if a drop of oil happens to fall down, so be it. Typically the amount of oil in the cylinder surrounding the spark plug is minimal, and if a drop or two happen to drip down..it isn't going to harm anything.
What you can do to try and avoid it is roll a few paper towels up nice and tight, and send it down the spark plug tube and spin it around. You can do this both before and after removing the plug, just make sure you don't go crazy when the plug is removed so you don't rip off any paper towel. You can also do this with a microfiber cloth to avoid that possibility. This is essentially "dabbing" the oil out like you mentioned. You can also lightly blow compressed air in the cylinder before wiping it out to get most of the sitting oil blown out.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I saw in a separate video that you can supposedly also use brake cleaner spray to spray down into the spark plug tube after you have dabbed the oil out and have used the compressed air. Would you advise against using brake cleaner to help clean the spark plug tube? Thanks again
@@pauldavis7318 brake cleaner is great & effective for cleaning up oil, but personally I would say steer away from spraying it in the tube, it might create more of a mess than actually help.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks a lot for your help.
@@pauldavis7318 no problem!
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you very much for the video the only difference is the car color
Awesome glad it helps 🙏
Want to thank you on such an informative video. I am assembling all the tools necessary and all I need is a torque wrench. Do you have any recommendations on which torque wrench to buy that wont break the bank? I dont know whether to buy the 1/4" or the 3/8" drive for this job. I do have a 1/4" & 3/8" drive socket set with ratchet , 40 pieces & a seperate spark plug extension(I have changed the spark plugs before). An additional quesiton I have is do I need to get an additional extension for the torque wrench recommended? Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you again for such a good video.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it! And the size doesn’t matter as much….in regards to 3/8 or 1/4…as it does the range of inch and/or foot pounds. You just want to make sure the wrench covers all the necessary torque values you need. I personally like having all of them available, but its not really necessary if you aren’t using them regularly. I would stay away from Craftsman torque wrenches, I’ve had multiple and they always give me problems pretty quickly, unfortunately. If you aren’t using the torque wrench frequently or regularly I would maybe suggest renting them from Autozone. You put a deposit on the loaner tool, then you get it all back when your done. That way its free, and you get to use the tool you need with no strings attached. As far as the extension, you can use any extension you want really, i think i used an 8” or 10” on this!
Do you know by chance if it would be the same gasket for the 2010 Kia Forte Koup 2.4?
Actually, it looks as though it is!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you! 🙏🏽
@@TheOriginalBeeCee hey - thought snout giving you an update. This gasket will fit the 2010 2.4 forte koup as well!
Bring old school, we always put a thin layer of the blue RTV on both sides of the gasket, or mating surfaces.
You mentioned cleaning off that black tar, so did that mean the factory had sealed all around the gasket perimeter, and if so why didn't you do the same?
It didn't appear to have any around the spark plug cavity.
BTW, great video ❤
So first thing amazing video and walkthrough secondly tho i did my spark plugs and noticed oil In one of them thit should fix this right? alot people saying its the gaskets. My question do you know how to clean in the spark plug since oil is in it also no leaks or misfires yet thankfully any advice nuch appreciated.
Thanks man, I appreciate it! But yea the spark plug seals (which are part of the valve cover gasket) should solve the issue. Honestly there probably isn’t gonna be a lot of oil in there that you can clean, but you can roll a couple paper towels up long-ways and gently spin it around in the cylinder to clean any remaining oil in there. Clean the coil boots good too cause they probably will have more oil than anything.
So on the rtv, does it only go on the passenger side by the timing chane, or should some be applied to the drivers side as well? Should i clean my old valve cover with brake clean? It won't damage anything i am hoping.
Only on passenger side. If it needed to be anywhere else, I would have mentioned it. The RTV is meant to fill in any gapping that's between the valve cover/and the timing chain cover, which the VCG rubber can't quite reach deeply into and perfectly fill. Thats why RTV is always outlined to be put on the timing cover when doing a VCG. Outside of that it’s simply not needed, it will seal perfectly fine without RTV anywhere else, and of course they don’t come with RTV anywhere else from factory.
And brake cleaner isn’t going to damage the valve cover.
I have a question what if someone doesn't have a torque wrench could they just tighten them with a socket wrench on a 2012 Kia forte because I'm going to be doing my valve cover gaskets and that is the reason I am asking anyway thanks for making such a great video it really is going to help me in replacing my valve cover on my 2012 Kia forte keep up the awesome UA-cam videos
Something like a valve cover gasket, In my opinion it’s best to torque it. Anything that involves a gasket/seal should really be torqued.
You can rent a torque wrench for free from autozone. That said….there are many things you can get away without torquing, even with some experience you could do a valve cover gasket without one and get away with it, but ideally I still think torquing is ideal and would recommend going renting one for the job.
Excellent how to video. Covered all the bases. One question I have is having an extension on a torque wrench, will that throw off the measured torque? Thanks!
Appreciate the comment. But a straight extension should have no effect on torque specs. If you had a swivel or something like that on the extension setup that could potentially affect torque value. But any straight extension should have no change on anything.
Espero que puedas entender lo que digo,
Yo batallé mucho para encontrar la parte correcta con el número de parte que has dado me has ayudado muchísimo thank you so much
Cuando compre el repuesto para eso, me pidieron el numero de chassis y en la computadora busco antes de vendermelo, fue en la agencia de Kia aqui en mi pais, el mecanico me dijo que compre de KIA y asi lo hice, el lunes veremos que onda..! no fue caro para nada, ni tampoco la reparacion sera por el presupuesto que me paso. tengo un Cerato 1.6 y esta teniendo esas mismas filtraciones.
Este video me salvó el día.
Gracias!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee gracias por el video me salvó el día y lo mejor es que me querían vender la pieza que no era y al ver el video, tuve que enseñarle el video al vendedor para que entendiera.
@TheOriginalBeeCee Why not use The Right Stuff in any other area? Why just in those 2 spots? Couldn't I use that all around and it would be okay or does it have to be just in those 2 spots?
The RTV is meant to fill in any gapping that's between the valve cover/and the timing chain cover, which the VCG rubber can't quite reach deeply into and perfectly fill. Thats why RTV is always outlined to be put on the timing cover when doing a VCG. Outside of that it’s simply not needed, it will seal perfectly fine without RTV anywhere else, and of course they don’t come with RTV on the cover from factory.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks so much for the quick response! This helps greatly.
@@JerryJonesjrsr no problem 🙏
Nice and simple. Thank you sir.
Appreciate the comment! Thank you!
Excellent video brother…this tutorial help me a lot to replace my head gasket..gracias señor!!
🙏🙏 appreciate it!
Thank you so much bruh the gasket autozone an o'really was says the one that geos to the 2010 kai forte 2.4L was the VS50556 which did not fit at all but the 2011 one did for me the VS50555.
Appreciate the comment 🙏🙏
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do I need to drain the oil first?
Nope! I would have mentioned it if needed.
Hello , thanks for this video I'm doing headgasket job in this car but i can't find a lot of info about this car.
I'm looking for the tq specs of the head.
Unfortunately I don’t have the head gasket specs. I would probably suggest ordering a Haynes manual for it
thanks for this video, will help me alot on how to replace the gasket as my gasket is leaking little now.
🙏🙏🙏
Thank you so much, your video helped me find the right part for my car, great video
Im glad it helped!!!
I did this same process now after installation the engine only runs when hose is disconnected from pcv valve… bought new valve and still same issue… engine only runs when hose isn’t connected to anything… what could it b?
Could be the same torque specs for the 2.4l 2011?
Check out this video, should fall more in line with your application:
2011-2015 Kia Optima Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (2.4L GDI)
ua-cam.com/video/AhYCRAkO8z0/v-deo.html
will this fix oil in the spark plug problem?
Yessir
Are these the same torque specs for the 2.4 liter?
Just answered this is another recent comment:
Check out this video, should fall more in line with your application:
2011-2015 Kia Optima Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (2.4L GDI)
ua-cam.com/video/AhYCRAkO8z0/v-deo.html
Amazing vid. Going to work on mine soon. Were did you get your inch pound torque wrench. I assume its an important tool to have when doing this?
A torque wrench is definitely something I would suggest for a valve cover gasket job. I actually have Craftsman torque wrenches, which I’ve actually had problems with. The lock on them breaks extremely easily. But autozone rents torque wrenches, you can always rent one for free to get the job done!
What gasket do you use? There are so many choices and alot of negative comments
Literally in the video man. @12:18
Great video, still seems a bit daunting to me. If I was a bit braver I would do it myself but right now I think I’ll have a mechanic do it for me.
Edit: the shop is charging 200 where I could do it myself for 50 (would be cheaper if I had the tools) I’m doing it myself this weekend haha
Hahaha. Its not that hard. Take your time & staying organized are half the battle. If you can manage that it will probably go a lot smoother than you think!
Could a leak in the valve cover gasket cause oil consumption between each oil change?
It wouldn’t cause “consumption”, as in the motor burning oil, etc. These motors are notorious for burning oil. This car had the oil consumption issue. Ive seen this car loose over a quart of oil in a 3000 mile oil change interval. But no, the VCG leaking is a separate issue from the oil consumption issue with these motors. Kia even had recalls for this issue, but was very picky & choosy on actually qualifying for the recall.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you 😊👍
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Even if the engine doesn't smoke!.... So what's the problem with these engines?
@@dearaminou4726 engines don’t have to smoke to consume oil/have something wrong. I’m not quite sure what the issue is directly, been a while since I looked into it. But you can Google search terms like “kia motor burning oil” and/or “Kia engine recall” etc., and you can find a good amount of information and insight regarding these issues.
Do you know if these vehicles have a fuel temp sensor? I got a p205 code
Whats up man. This is not my vehicle, I only did the job on it....so I’m not overly familiar with it. I would suggest doing some Googling on the code in relation to the car, so search something like “p0205 kia forte” and see what you come up with. Couldn’t hurt to take a look under the hood as well if you haven’t already and see if anything sticks out.
What gasket did you get I got the felpro and I could t get the inner gasket in
@ 12:18
For whatever reason some kia forte run a different gasket setting.
The correct fel-pro gasket number is VS 50923 R
Good info!
Should i clean the sparkplugs if they have oil on them ?
Most definitely at the least…at that rate I would suggest replacing them while you’re in there
I'm also having a hard time finding a inch-pound torque wrench, I live in New Brunswick, Canada would you happen to know of any online ?
@@joshuaarango9973 www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-torque-wrench/p/oemtools-3-8in-drive-torque-wrench/209524_0_0?spps.s=1123&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:19489353547&&CATARGETID=120054150001289921&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAjwjOunBhB4EiwA94JWsJIDm4tbkX8kgQ2X3U8HLb5Bf2P81AaQup9aAH5cdSkDO5Cpic9muRoCnKkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you for the video. Had the same issue and this helped me a lot.
Awesome, I’m glad it helped!
Amazon says the Mahle doesnt fit a 2012 kia forte but the Felpro does??? Could 2012 be different than 2011?
Local parts stores typically stock both and have them both on hand, at least advance does…this is one i would just pay a few extra bucks for and get locally. I would call, see if they have both in stock, if they do…do the job, and once you have the original gasket off and in hand…go to the store with it and match it up to get the right one the first time.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thank you for taking the time to reply. I am going to follow your instructions next weekend!
@@TheEchomaker awesome..good luck with the job 🙏
if I take the gasket cover off and the oil on the engine is reddish-brown as opposed to yellow, what does that mean?
It's probably just varnish. As long as there is no build-up, or sludge, or any areas where you can scoop some out with your finger, you should be fine. Some suggest switching to a synthetic oil to help clean it up over time, but I can't personally confirm how effective that would be.
Thank you so much, I'm learning how to work on my own car so this is amazing. How long does it normally take to do something like this?
Nice! That’s great. Probably like 1-2 hours though depending on experience & cleaning!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee okay, thanks🤗
@@Quenna09 no problem!
Dude do u have a class very clear and informative video do have one for power steering
I appreciate it! Unfortunately I don’t, but I might just have one sometime soon!
Hi Thanks for the video.
Can you also do "fuel injector replacement" on this vehicle (KIA-FORTE-2010-2013)
Thanks for the comment! This is not my vehicle although, I only did the job on it. If I ever have the opportunity to do the job though, I would be happy to do a video on it.
Great video brotha!
Appreciate it!
Great video! About to do this on my 2010 forte sx
Awesome man good luck on the job 👍
@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you do all my work on my 2010. Only 130k miles
Good stuff man DIY’ing is always better!
thanks a lot was really great !! nice video a hope more of this Kia Forte 2010
Appreciate the comment 🙏
gotta link to that clip removal tool?
OEMTOOLS 25313 Door Panel Remover, Constructed from High Carbon Steel for Easy Door Panel Removals, Won’t Damage Upholstery, Useful Auto-Trim Removal Tool a.co/d/ik84a9W
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you, sir.
@@delliott777 no problem 👍
a dab of dielectric grease is good in the coil boots
Ehh
Excellent video
Appreciate it 🙏
Gracias. Excelente!
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
What if the oil sitting on top of the exhaust ?
I would make sure you don’t have a Head Gasket leak
I just had this situation like two days ago I thank you for this video very hopeful!! Could be because I’m not losing any Power steering fluid. Going to look at it soon thanks men
Thank you!
🙏🙏
This vid rules. You deserve a 🍺
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Gracias
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Tank u sir. Doing this tmr
🙏
Good video
Appreciate it!
I got the felt pro and it did not fit
This is precisely what my Cerato needs right now! , too bad i dont have the tools nor the cojones to do it , so i spoke my mechanic and going to take the car to the shop this monday. got the replacement from the KIA dealership here in my city using the Chassis number! so i hope theres no mistake ! lol
Good luck! 👍