I do share more photos and video clips on Instagram as I’m building up or thinking about stuff. I spend a bit more time on the UA-cam videos and try to do more condensed content. Search nicks_projects on Instagram.
I’ve used the YB cosworth tensioner. It’s readily available worldwide and it has a belt guide. However I did have to have 2.5mm machined off the back of it to give proper alignment. Eventually I plan to re-make the side cover with some extra strength and a 2.5mm recess so I can run a standard YB tensioner.
I’m building a 1420cc engine. 73.5mm bore, 83.5mm crank. The bmw k head goes on any big bore block, obviously with the suitable mods, you can also get an 8v head on a small bore block.
@Nick Thornhill I'm a big mini fan, it's what the first M in MRM stands for, what I cut my teeth on as a youth. Look forward to following this. I've a mini here I need to build for my son.
It looks like you are going to need access to the head of the countersunk screw when you adjust the tensioner or am I missing something? Also, the screw goes into the crankcase volume. How do you seal against oil mist blowby around the screw?
Yes I hear you. I messed that bit up quite significantly. I wanted to drill and tap it but I got it wonky with an odd thread tap and had to adapt. I have held it in place with some some precision places indentations and I sealed it with RTV on the back. So hopefully it shouldn’t leak. The long term plan is to redesign the end plate altogether and have the stud mounted in there properly. For now I want to make sure everything else works well. I haven’t got a drain on the end plate so that might need to be added too.
@@NickThornhill If you put the screw in place and fasten it with a nut on the outside you can TIG around the edge of the screw head to make it airtight and act as a stud at the same time.
@Tguson yeh I went through lots of ideas. The end plate being anodised aluminium stopped a lot of them. It doesn’t pick up on the bottom set of bolt holes either which I’d like it it to. It’s a learning journey, want to try a few things and see what works and what doesn’t. Lots of notes in my book for Mk2.
@@NickThornhill OK, I assumed the plate was steel but then welding the screw to it isn't an option. But since you obivously can get your heads welded up, why not just fill both holes and re-tap? The tensioner will cover the area anyway once installed.
@Tguson the tensioner had to be modified to fit on a flat plate. I’ve got an idea to make a new conversion end plate that uses a standard YB cosworth tensioner, stud and nut, possibly the tensioner locking plate too.
Hey Nick? What cam sprockets did you use? I picked up a set, same style but from a twin cam lancer and they were too big to clear. And what bottom sprocket? 😊
The cam sprockets, oil pump drive, crank pulley and blanking plates are All from force racing. They machine them in house for their own conversion kit.
I know how you feel about filming and figuring it out. Good work.1420 cc sounds good.
Thanks. It’s really challenging to document it and my time is limited.
I do like your disclaimer
Lol indeed. #notmyfault
Is IG the best place to see your full collection of videos?
I do share more photos and video clips on Instagram as I’m building up or thinking about stuff. I spend a bit more time on the UA-cam videos and try to do more condensed content.
Search nicks_projects on Instagram.
Hello, well done, which belt tensioner do you use for this?
I’ve used the YB cosworth tensioner. It’s readily available worldwide and it has a belt guide. However I did have to have 2.5mm machined off the back of it to give proper alignment.
Eventually I plan to re-make the side cover with some extra strength and a 2.5mm recess so I can run a standard YB tensioner.
I asked Matt Read about your drillings and shared your vid. Apparently Readspeed do the same drilling 🙂
Thanks Claire. I’m glad I’m not alone here. It just seems the most logical option.
Great project, I will surely do it in a while. Your videos will be very useful to me. Is it for mounting on an engine of what displacement?
I’m building a 1420cc engine. 73.5mm bore, 83.5mm crank.
The bmw k head goes on any big bore block, obviously with the suitable mods, you can also get an 8v head on a small bore block.
I did wonder what engine you were playing with.
Definitely a mini engine with a hint of bmw, cosworth and now peugeot too 😂
@Nick Thornhill I'm a big mini fan, it's what the first M in MRM stands for, what I cut my teeth on as a youth. Look forward to following this. I've a mini here I need to build for my son.
Yes I’ve seen yours too. It’s in a better state than mine atm 😂
It looks like you are going to need access to the head of the countersunk screw when you adjust the tensioner or am I missing something? Also, the screw goes into the crankcase volume. How do you seal against oil mist blowby around the screw?
Yes I hear you. I messed that bit up quite significantly. I wanted to drill and tap it but I got it wonky with an odd thread tap and had to adapt. I have held it in place with some some precision places indentations and I sealed it with RTV on the back. So hopefully it shouldn’t leak.
The long term plan is to redesign the end plate altogether and have the stud mounted in there properly. For now I want to make sure everything else works well. I haven’t got a drain on the end plate so that might need to be added too.
@@NickThornhill If you put the screw in place and fasten it with a nut on the outside you can TIG around the edge of the screw head to make it airtight and act as a stud at the same time.
@Tguson yeh I went through lots of ideas. The end plate being anodised aluminium stopped a lot of them. It doesn’t pick up on the bottom set of bolt holes either which I’d like it it to.
It’s a learning journey, want to try a few things and see what works and what doesn’t. Lots of notes in my book for Mk2.
@@NickThornhill OK, I assumed the plate was steel but then welding the screw to it isn't an option. But since you obivously can get your heads welded up, why not just fill both holes and re-tap? The tensioner will cover the area anyway once installed.
@Tguson the tensioner had to be modified to fit on a flat plate. I’ve got an idea to make a new conversion end plate that uses a standard YB cosworth tensioner, stud and nut, possibly the tensioner locking plate too.
Hey Nick? What cam sprockets did you use? I picked up a set, same style but from a twin cam lancer and they were too big to clear.
And what bottom sprocket? 😊
The cam sprockets, oil pump drive, crank pulley and blanking plates are All from force racing. They machine them in house for their own conversion kit.
Disclaimer 😂😂😂 I'm happy with the results from a masonaty drill.
Glad to hear it. The next one I might try a bigger one.
engineerng sollutions should "just make sense"
This just makes sense to me 👌🫣 fingers crossed it works in reality