Oak Spice Rack with Domino Rails
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- A short video following the process of building this simple but very effective American White Oak spice rack using the Festool Domino Jointing machine and some homemade dowel.
The Finish is Osmo Raw, The glue i'm using is Polyurethane (sovereign Chemicals) or (Woodweld)
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Hi Mr Bradshaw, I’ve just spent the evening watching your work, very relaxing to watch and I’m doing the watching rather than the working ,
Thank you 👍🔨📐😄
Gary!! ive watched quite a few of your videos, very relaxing also mate so thanks!!
I enjoy watching your builds - especially your millwork on the spindle moulder. Learning lots of tricks. Cheers.
Awesome to hear, Ill try to keep them coming. Got a little bit of simple ring fence work coming up on some shelf brackets soon.
can't beat a bit of oak against white. Love the number of screws you put in the back. I feel justified in over building everything myself. lol. Looks great.
Cant beat a bit of over engineering. The troubling thing is, i think ive got to paint it a different colour now! haha.
looks great,nice design...........reminds me of my secondary school woodwork class of 1975.although no biscuits or dominos around then,just dowels lol ,cant even remember the glue....prob evo-stick.never forget the smell or buzz with that stuff ............thanks bud......stay safe....................dougie
Haha, i never got to make a Spice rack at school with dowels, we had the mighty hot melt glue!! haha. Probably not even allowed that now. Cheers buddy, you too.
Another quality job, thanks for sharing 👍
Nice one Neil, thankyou
lovely job it looks really good
Nice one John, thankyou
Another great job
Thansk once again Pete :D
Great work and nice finish on it. I've been following you for a while from here in Texas and appreciate seeing quality work and craftsmanship I wish more young people here took an interest in the trades and doing work they can be proud of instead of the wham bam thank you m'am that passes for cabinet and finish work or joinery as you call it over there and unfortunately people settle for it because they don't know the difference. As to the Domino in hard woods I work with mostly White Oak, Cherry, Maple and other hardwoods and never had an issue with it cutting. Now I need to convert metric to imperial and get busy on this.
Cheers Danny, Quality is appreciated, but like you say joe public do not realise the work involved in making things. These videos have certainly opened a few of my customers eyes as to how much work goes into things. Its a useful tool. Domino is great, i know some traditionalists dont like it, but for me its a great in between of proper joinery quality and cost effectiveness.
another mesmerising build - thank you for sharing - how long did it take you to make ?
Thanks Gary, under a day i think, roughly. a little longer as filming takes its own time.
@@BradshawJoinery Yes, the filming / editing at the start can take longer than the project ;-)
Nice job. I’ve found it’s not that easy to get a clean and consistent hole in harder wood with a domino so I would shy away from how you did it.
So well done because it looks great.
It seems to cut fairly clean, it is a new cutter however and plunge very carefully for a start. You could always plane 1/2mm off the thickness if you found tearout an issue.
I have had similar issues when the dust extraction has not been on, me not turning it on 🙄, when plunging vertically.
I love your videos on windows. But do you have any video for build front doors(especially double front doors). I am planing to build one but still need to figure out how transom are build. Could you let me know if you know. Man thanks..
Not yet matey, transom above double doors? Its just a cill detail to the top half and a jamb detail to the bottom. appropriate setbacks on the tenon to allow for the bevel on the top, unless its direct glazed then its even easier as its just a rebate. If doors are open in and glass is external then you have to stop rebates on the jambs, run them through to the far side of transom and chisel out square or do a diminished shoulder (if your fancy) on both sides.
Excellent channel...What adhesive are you using?
Its a PU Rapid glue from sovereign chemicals
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you & keep up the great work.
Your spindle moulder is amazing and a little scary. That 20mm oak board just disappeared while shaping
It was a deep cut, But yeah minced it up no problem haha. Got to be very careful with it, a snag could end very badly.
Another lovely job buddy.
Don't know how you get on so well with the domino. mine was one of the first editions, and always seemed to fight me. I love my duo-doweller and biscuit jointer, but can't do things like this so easily.
How are you liking the Festool belt sander? I loved the plate, but got fed up with not being able to buy after market scratch (for the 4in sander), and strangely, for festool, didn't think the dust extraction was as good as the old makita war horse, so went back to that.
I'll find you on Patreon and ping you a few quid becuase I do love your videos!
Hey Matt, ive definitley found some cutters are very agressive from new in the domino, and some alot smoother, maybe that was the problem? it takes some getting used to especially in a vertical plunge, i wrecked a few pieces for a start, ive found themachine has to be running before putting into place to avoid a plunge on startup. Dust extraction is essential too.
The belt sander is probably the best thing ive bought in a long time! haha Its solved a couple of issues for me... 1 Accoya sanding on face frames and shaker doors... i can sand these in a very controlled manner now and achieve a perfectly flat surface, a orbital tends to dig the soft grainn out! and second thing its helped with is lipping veneers. once a edge lipping is glued in place, say 10mm i just set the sanding frame so it is just level with the surface and then when held over the lipping thats proud it sands that but not the veneer. It gets it mighty smooth and its so contollable. no chance of grain rip out like if using a router to flush trim. Its perfect! I used to like the makita 4" i used as an apprentice, but nowhere near as flat or controllable as the 75! I love it.
Cheers for the Patreon. Humbled at the support ive had thus far! :)
@@BradshawJoinery is the 3in then? I think that takes the abranetbelts. If so, give them a go. Rest Express were cheapest last time looked. I had the 4in and they didn't fit. Might have to try the 3in if you rate it. I can see it in my work flow the same as you for cabinet doors and edging, but cheaper chan a lopping planer and certainly more space efficient than a drum sander.. Hmm. Maybe I cant afford your patreo now 😁
That’s some LARGE spice jars.
Haha yeah, hopefully the cooking isnt bland!
I have realised after watching your videos that you never use a table saw and I don't think I have ever seen one in your workshop ? Why don't you use one ?
I'll answer that for you. Because ripping on a bandsaw is easier, less noisy, a lot less dusty, doesn't throw dust at you, doesn't kick back, looses less wood.. umm... I expect thats a few of the reasons..
I have a small startrite saw for ripping down smaller parts, i do use it a little bit, and is handy for alot of tasks but i prefer the band saw as Matt has said. I have done a lot of proper bench joinery up to now, and swapped the big circular for the bandsaw and didnt look back. Now im getting more cabinetry work a table saw is looking more useful again, but for general ripping/sizing the bandsaw is king. I have many times got 2x 15mm x 150mm boards from some 1.5" timber (accoya) and saved a small fortune on planing down 1" boarding to do the same job. Its only a 2mm wide kerf.
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you for the explanation. My Freud blades are only 2.8mm kerf so I am not sure the keft argument is valid :-) As for bandsaws I am guessing they are only as useful as they are well made. My reasonably priced(£899) but crap Chinese built Metabo is a constant battle, the blade flexes a lot and getting a straight long cut is impossible. Hence my question about the table saw (or lack of)
I wouldn't trust a bandsaw for a straight finish cut without planing after. I also wouldn't circular saw withou planing after. If your going to have just one machine in the shop a circular saw is king. But like I say I've got both and use both. I just wouldn't choose to rip timber down on a circular over the bandsaw and that is the core use of it. The bandsaw is delightful compared and I can cut 16" deep 👍
@@BradshawJoinery According to Metabo my bandsaw will do 14" but with the left/right deflection on the blade it's a real lottery. I suspect Metabo have a tensioning issue which is causing the blade deflection. Will try a wider blade and see it it helps. Moral of the story is don't buy Chinese built crap :-)