TGV Matching Boards. How to make your own
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- How to make your own TGV Matching Boards using a Spindle Moulder.
If you want your boarded joinery to look Pro, then you need to have equal width boarding and Stiles. This means making bespoke panelling. If you are making a lot of one thickness board then having a cutter set made or buying a kit to make TGV boarding will be the best option, but for smaller productions making in a similar fashion to this is a great way to get the job done.
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I have to say - a medal to your customer who paid a LOT I suppose to re-purpose this lovely cupboard. Too many people would have put it onto the bonfire and spent nothing except maybe tp IKEA! Great job.
Thanks David! Yes i have some fabulous customers who can see the value in things!
Thanks for taking the time for these videos. I am only an aspiring amateur with a small side-line but finding them invaluable for picking up tips with a focus on quality.
No worries that what they are there for! Its all about that attention at every stage and good planning. Knowing the process all the way thorugh makes the decisions at the start much better
Classy job there, you're a credit to your trade. I made a couple of braced doors after watching one of your other videos, turned out great. Keep 'em coming...
Ahh, thats brilliant to hear!! Thankyou, glad to be of some use :D
Excellent I’m just about to. Build some gates so your videos have come in very useful thanks
Thanks Mark that's great to hear
Great video. I use the same moulder, those extension tables look useful. Pricey though knowing felder
HI James they are great! I wouldnt have bought and had i not recieved one with the machine when i bought that.... i now have 3 that i use on the spindle, planer and bandsaw, im constantly swapping them about. Spindle moulder feels small/not as safe when they aren't on so i rarely use it without them!
Very useful, Thanks. I don't own a spindle moulder, but I can use these principles on my Festool router table with their spindle and cutters. It'll be good enough for an amateur who can put up with the tool changes!
Main thing with boarding is when doing the rebating be very careful not to get variations in the thickness of the tongue. If you work from both faces and the boards are not planed accurately it's real easy to get problems!
Glad the video has been of some help
Thanks, another great video. It seems you're showing me how to do things professionally just AFTER I've done them myself! (Just done a TGV boarded stable door). Maybe I need to slow down a bit and wait for your videos before tackling my next project. However, it'll all be useful next time I need to do this stuff. Keep the videos coming - very much appreciated.
Haha! That's brilliant Ian! What's your next project? If it's a ladder shelf then hold fire! Haha
Another great video. Very helpful.
Keep them coming
Thankyou Alastair
Great video, love seeing all the spindle work. I have that adjustable groover as well, and it's the one I use the most. You are spoiled over there with easy access to Accoya! On this side of the pond you need to sell a kidney to buy a few sticks of it!
Thanks buddy! It's a brilliant bit of kit that groover. Much better than the wobble saw I moved on from!
It's pretty dear over here, £2500 per m3 roughly! Worth it though
That's funny, I moved to it from a wobble saw too! I'm curious about that gap in sizes between 7.5 and 8. I'll have yo look at mine because I don't think I've used it in that range.
Brillant video great information thank you.
Awesome to hear! Thankyou Glen
Another quality video thanks for sharing - what overall thickness do your gates tend to come out at they look around 60mm ? Thanks
Thanks Harry. Depends on the application, but for something nice and strong usually around 58mm in Accoya. I would have used ex 2" for this particular gate but only had 2.5" stock of timber in so thought why thin it down!
Hi Brad, I am using Iroko and am making garage barn doors and frame and also side door to match, I will be making them to your method of making, a traditional way of making tung and grooved barn doors, is it worth using the Iroko for the side door cill or is it worth using sapelle? what is the difference in price of the wood you are using and Iroko, you may ask why am I using Iroko, the reason is I do not want to paint or finish the wood I want a lovely looking wood finish. I have subscribed to your channel as it is the best channel I know of that explains joinery really well. There is a lot there I already know but with age it is easy to need a reminder and your videos remind me what I should be doing so thank you very much from an aging cabinet maker & Joiner. I have started my own channel for unusual jobs called Ian Robinson Cabinetry & Joinery no where near as good as these videos mind, I used to run a big company for joinery and cabinetry but too stressful after 20 years running it, I now have a small workshop that I really love working in but not got as many machines anymore but I do cope easily and found I do not need as much as I used to. keep up the good work it is great to see a fellow joiner at work.
Hi Buddy, thanks for this, There isnt much in the Iroko/sapele difference, i would lean toward iroko if you are staining/natural finish and sapele if you are painting. I would say iroko is more durable than sapele in my experience. In terms of the difference in them to Accoya, over double the price accoya is but durability is exceptional. in a average setting hardwood is 20-30 years, accoya 50 plus, aswell as the added benefit of no movement during that time. Thanks for the sub!!
@@BradshawJoinery wow that is impressive with accoya. Do you finish accoya or leave it unfinished?
Another great video with lots of useful information. What’s the alarm sound that appears in some of your videos?
Thanks Mark, they are Gate alarms, they are dual beam sensors that alarm when something passes through them. 100% accurate. Works well with the CCTV you can quickly keep an eye on who's about. Much more relaxing than running outside to check everytime you hear a vehicle slowing down!
Bradshaw Joinery sounds good I wouldn’t mind details of that.
Sorry, i pressed dislike by mistake lol if that appeared on your feed?! im camping and an airbed isnt the most stable viewing platforms lol. Love your videos mate. Pls dont think i disliked intentionally 👍👍
Haha no worries Chris! Didn't even see the dislike 🤣..
Just know this, if you dislike again I'll break you...! (Jokes)
@@BradshawJoinery 😂😂😂😂😂
Morning,
I'm just about to build two oak gates circa 400 mm wide and fit with t&g - this oak was cut 34 years ago and has been barn stored - I'm using a router table but given your comments on expansion and contraction what gap would you recommend between boards for allowance - the panels will be 18mm thick? Aways find your videos thoroughly educational and uplifting.
If it's bone dry, I'd look for 2.5mm as it will expand in winter and shouldn't shrink much more. All depends on the moisture reading. Nail/pin the boards on instead of screws and the screws will most likely fail where a nail will give/bend.
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you ever so much - I'm proposing to create a tongue both top and bottom to fit into a routed rebate along the rails - no need to reply if you think is ok!
hey, around 7 minutes in you mention that in summer the wood will be the driest of the dry and in winter the wettest of the wet in full humidity, but my understanding was that wood expands in summer due to higher humidity and shrinks in winter as air is dryer.. have I got this completely wrong!?
Yes for external woodwork. Maybe internal woodwork there could be an argument in the opposite direction but I've not witnessed it myself. My Garage doors are softwood and they have shrunk that much on the boarding they aren't far off showing gaps yet In the winter they are tight up to each other!
You have to be careful with humidity though and you are correct that winter can have lower humidity. When temps are low the air is really dry. Can notice it with paint application where the wb paint will dry out rather than cure and cause problems!
Depends where you are, I grew up in a place that had wet winters and dry summers, i.e. wood swelled in winter. I now live in a place where the opposite is true, dry winters and wet summers, everything swells here in the summer.
@@johnpatrick4983 Very True!
I live in Cape Town, South Africa and we have wet winters and warm summers. The wood swells in the winter and contracts in the summer. Thank you for highlighting this point.