I so agree with you about checking the action on every string. Most guys just check the two e’s and count on the radius of the saddle to be correct. You would have to be real lucky for that to happen. Great video!
Thanks so much for this video, Mr. Kimsey. It gave me the information and guts to make a new saddle for my daily driver. Turned out great--the tone and volume are vastly improved!
Awesome work, now that's precision. I would love to have a bone saddle put in my 65 Epiphone Texan and get rid of that adjustable, rosewood saddle. In my opinion nothing sounds better than bone saddle. The precision that you use to make your saddles as crazy good. And you're right, by doing it this way you have the exact space that you need for each string to vibrate properly. Again, awesome job.
I was gonna change from "Kimsey Lutherie", which is boring, to "Bryan's Guitar Garage- tune ups and hot rods". Calipers, feeler gauges... what else do I use that sets people off? :)
Great video! It normally takes me 4 or 5 tries to get the saddle fine tuned and then I'm still over/under by .001. Maybe your comment about the thickness of the pencil line could be some of my problem.
I get it on the first shot about half the time. The other 40% of the time it takes me 2 tries, just like I showed here. If it takes more than that, I measured wrong the first time. The key is whether or not I compensate and polish the first draft. If I do, then it almost _always_ takes another run. If it don't, I nail it first try. Go figure.
Have you ever seen the lower frets of the D string buzzing more easily than the A string in the same area? I've got an A and D that are exactly the same height, .085", but the E on the second fret will buzz before the B on the A string. Relief is .008". It looks like in this case, with the setup getting close to as low as you'd want to go, my D string needs to be just a bit higher than the A in order for them to buzz (or not buzz) from the same amount of force.
First of all, E on the 2nd fret D string can be one of the worst notes ever on an acoustic guitar. There is no mechanical reason why your D string should have a higher action than the a string. I would be looking at a high fret or possibly loose back braces. The first thing you should do is the next fret test to verify that the string is clearing the fret. There is a full video on my channel search for next fret technique
@@Bryankimsey Thanks for your reply. There does seem to be something about that 4th string, 2nd fret E that makes it problematic. I watched your next-fret technique video. That's a nice, quick way to check for low/high frets or low clearance up the neck from too much relief. I measured the third fret clearance, and the B and D string are real close, but the A string might have about .001" more clearance at .008" and the D at .007". So, maybe that's enough to make the difference. Everything else seems fine. I was just going to make another saddle just to raise that D string a tiny bit.
I so agree with you about checking the action on every string. Most guys just check the two e’s and count on the radius of the saddle to be correct. You would have to be real lucky for that to happen. Great video!
Thanks so much for this video, Mr. Kimsey. It gave me the information and guts to make a new saddle for my daily driver. Turned out great--the tone and volume are vastly improved!
Awesome work, now that's precision. I would love to have a bone saddle put in my 65 Epiphone Texan and get rid of that adjustable, rosewood saddle. In my opinion nothing sounds better than bone saddle. The precision that you use to make your saddles as crazy good. And you're right, by doing it this way you have the exact space that you need for each string to vibrate properly. Again, awesome job.
My Lord learn SO MUCH !! thanks a Million
That’s what you have to add to your shirt
Bryan Kimsey
the Guitar Mechanic
Calipers & Feeler Guages
I was gonna change from "Kimsey Lutherie", which is boring, to "Bryan's Guitar Garage- tune ups and hot rods". Calipers, feeler gauges... what else do I use that sets people off? :)
@@Bryankimsey
Bryan’s Guitar Garage
Tune-Ups and Hot Rods
Calipers, Feeler Gauges & Nuts
I want the first one.
Sheriff, you are killing it these days. Great stuff. Data and math for the win.
Great video! It normally takes me 4 or 5 tries to get the saddle fine tuned and then I'm still over/under by .001. Maybe your comment about the thickness of the pencil line could be some of my problem.
I get it on the first shot about half the time. The other 40% of the time it takes me 2 tries, just like I showed here. If it takes more than that, I measured wrong the first time. The key is whether or not I compensate and polish the first draft. If I do, then it almost _always_ takes another run. If it don't, I nail it first try. Go figure.
Thank you!
Have you ever seen the lower frets of the D string buzzing more easily than the A string in the same area? I've got an A and D that are exactly the same height, .085", but the E on the second fret will buzz before the B on the A string. Relief is .008".
It looks like in this case, with the setup getting close to as low as you'd want to go, my D string needs to be just a bit higher than the A in order for them to buzz (or not buzz) from the same amount of force.
First of all, E on the 2nd fret D string can be one of the worst notes ever on an acoustic guitar. There is no mechanical reason why your D string should have a higher action than the a string. I would be looking at a high fret or possibly loose back braces. The first thing you should do is the next fret test to verify that the string is clearing the fret. There is a full video on my channel search for next fret technique
@@Bryankimsey Thanks for your reply. There does seem to be something about that 4th string, 2nd fret E that makes it problematic. I watched your next-fret technique video. That's a nice, quick way to check for low/high frets or low clearance up the neck from too much relief. I measured the third fret clearance, and the B and D string are real close, but the A string might have about .001" more clearance at .008" and the D at .007". So, maybe that's enough to make the difference. Everything else seems fine. I was just going to make another saddle just to raise that D string a tiny bit.