Dual action trussrod conversion in a vintage Brazilian Rosewood Martin D-28 guitar (sacrilege!!)
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2024
- This is a video which gives a good overview in what is required to put a trussrod in a vintage Martin guitar. This is not a tutorial, just a video to show you that it can be done. Some people think it’s a bad idea, but the truth is, With a good Trussrod, a guitar can play much more easily! Don’t be afraid to resto-mod! #woodworking #acousticguitar #vintagemartin #brazilianrosewood #trussrodconversion
The double rod is the best neck reinforcement device ever designed. They work!
I have put these in several 70's dreadnaught Martins and never had any issues or regrets..
I completely agree. As far as guitars go, those 1970’s Martins are the best built, most hotrod-able guitars available at a reasonable price.
A number of years ago, I came across a 1967 D12-20 that was in immaculate shape but had never been played too much because of improper setup and the neck was bowed like a banana-It almost played like a slide guitar. I did exactly this job described here plus a neck reset but the purists on the Martin forums told me I was ruining the guitar and it's value. I think the hardest part was building the jig to route the neck channel out. I played the "Ringer," as I call it, last night. The tone and sustain are incredible. The "Ringer" is getting played regularly instead of sitting in its case in a closet somewhere. I would highly recommend this, especially for 12 strings, instead of compression fretting.
100%! Nice to hear about your trusty old 12!! Thanks-Jeremy
@@Hamm-toneGuitars That channel looks off center. Did you measure it?
@@EbonyPopethe new channel was centred on the original which was not centred.
I love your no fuss attitude and got her done. Good job.
Hey thanks! Next one up for a trussrod conversion & neck reset is a ‘63 D-18. Be well!
fantastic job mate, very impressive
Thanks!
I did this on a crappy messed up Fender acoustic that was meant for the trash someone had screwed up big time…I’d never done this before & figured this was a good way to learn…It came out really nice surprisingly so I ended up replacing the nut & saddle with bone, new pickguard & it plays & sounds pretty ok for what it was.
I figure it’s always to give it a shot! So many people just think about doing it/trying something different. Glad to hear it worked out well!
I have a 1975 Martin D 28 with similar neck relief issues. It is only playable in the first position as well. I would gladly have a truss rod installed if I could afford it. I’ve always wondered if this was a possible solution. Thanks for showing how it’s done.
Heat press "can" spring back in a couple weeks but it can also hold for years. Nice to see how it's done at least to see that it gets done though all the fun stuff was left out. Thanks for the vid
I have another one that I have just started… I’ll try to do a more detailed recording of the process and post it later. Thanks for your feedback!
Seems like all the really good acoustic guitar luthiers are in Canada. 👍
Great work, great attitude
Hey thanks!
I totally agree! Get that puppy playing again.
Great video. would have loved to see the soundboard routing for the patch.
I know this is an old video, but I had my luthier do a heat press on my '72 (which probably has a T-bar as well) and the neck hasn't sprung back appreciably; that was around ten years ago. It was a last ditch effort to put off the neck reset which will have to happen the next time I bring it in for frets. I've owned the guitar since about 1998 and I am on my third set of frets (I play a lot, and with a lot of vibrato so I really grind those frets down). I just dressed them this year so likely this time next year it'll be going under the knife. I play this thing with a 0.013"-0.056" set. I also do check things like relief and string height periodically to make sure she is happy (humidity and whatever) so I was surprised to hear you say it was only a temporary fix. I must have gotten lucky!
You are lucky! Great to hear it works out well sometimes! I think it was mid 1963 when they switched from the T bar to the square tube. I have a ‘71 with a square tube. It had a reset in 1996 and still plays very well.
I would like to see a little more about how you created the truss rod access hole from the inside. Thanks.
Next time I do a conversion, I’ll put some more detailed shots of that step in a video.
My 64 D-21 needs this as well.
It’s so nice to have a secretly adjustable vintage Martin. You can keep it as your secret and make everyone wonder why your Martin plays better than theirs!!
Nice work! It's amazing how Martin and Gibson used such bad ideas in their acoustic instruments, such as the non-adjustable truss rod in the Martin, and the goofy, tone-killing adjustable metal bridge insert that Gibson used. Bean counters influencing guitar construction to save a few $$ on each instrument has lead to stupid designs over the years.
🤣👍
My 60 year old D-28 with non adjustable T bar neck reinforcement has NEVER needed a neck reset and has as good action as my 2 month old 00-18. Why fix what’s not broken?
That's a rare bird that doesn't need a reset.
Jimmy D'Aquisto would try to talk customers into not having an adjustable truss rod but rather a bar. If you think you know more than Jimmy D.... you don't.
Ever try compression fretting? Good way to fix a bowed neck in an old Martin. Much less invasive..
Compression frets are a very good concept, but they don’t always work as well as one may hope. The climate here fluctuates from 65% relative humidity to 5%, and with those fluctuations, it’s really nice to be able to adjust the truss rod accordingly. The neck can move a fair bit in the spring/fall/winter.
What are your acoustic setup specs? I set my affordable Washburn up to 19-10 thou nut heights and 4-3 32nds with a capo on the first, 3-5 thou relief. I plays pretty fast.
With action relative to the first fret, between 7/64 and 6/64 on the bass side, and 4/64 and 5/64 on the treble side on an acoustic guitar. I usually aim for a minimal amount of neck, relief, somewhere between .006” and “.012”. Nut slot height, in relation to the first fret, after the neck, relief and saddle is adjusted properly, usually somewhere between .006” and .012”, depending on the guitar, playing style is also a factor.
That channel looks off center. Did you measure it?
Believe it or not, the original channel was offset slightly… This was the only guitar that I’ve seen so far come out of the Martin factory where the Trussrod was offset… On an angle a little bit. I like that you picked up on that. Good eye.
@@Hamm-toneGuitars I have a cheap strat copy that is otherwise well built and it has the same problem. The original truss rod is a few millimeters offset. I guess I'll plug the whole channel and re-route it.
Purists are probably losing their minds at just the thought of doing this mod but if I had the money and a vintage Martin I'd rather modify the instrument and have something playable vs a collectors item that'll not be usable.
I whole heartedly agree! Thanks
Absolutely true if you know you are keeping the guitar to the grave. In this case, why would you ever sell such a treasure? However you must acknowledge that the ultimate monetary value of the instrument will take a big hit because of this modification.
That’s just the way of the world.
You get the point, wish there was more people like you
I have no problem with your resto-mod
Thanks!
Question 😅 what if a truss rod is turned counter clockwise and nothing happens? Is it a single action? Thanks
Often it takes a half turn to a complete turn counter clockwise to see if it’s dual action. They’re all different……
@@Hamm-toneGuitars did a half turn and its pretty stuck. Tried to remove the fretboard and accidentally cracked the first fret luckily its a low budget guitar hehe. Just checking if its fixable. And by the looks of it. I think its single action truss rod. By the way thanks for replying man!
@Hamm-toneGuitars Hey dude I have an old slingerland songster from the 30s that belonged to my great grandfather- the neck is bowed and there is no truss rod. Do you think you could fix it and make it playable again? Would love to restore it
This is definitely something that can be done. You can find my contact info @ www.hammtone.com
Compression fretting is also an option. Not nearly as functional as an adjustable truss rod of course. I'd be hard pressed to talk any of my "true believer" Martin customers into doing that mod.
I always appreciate the customers who are both “true believers” in Martins, but also “true players”! Compression frets are definitely a good alternative.
Action a bit high or is it coz m listening from my phone..
After the guitar was done, it had really nice action. Beforehand, the action was very high.
I would fear, that the body is falling to pieces, when I heat the fretboard to remove it. I have an old custom acoustic lying around with a broken trussed and it's not worth enough to bring it to a luthier, so I would try it myself.
Fantastic! I hope it goes well!!
2:40 in and I learn a new trick. Feed current from an old solder gun into the fret to heat it.
It works so well, there is no comparison
How to remove guitar frets with a soldering iron (in my opinion it’s the best way)
ua-cam.com/video/U5Hn1Lvah5M/v-deo.html
how much does this type of mod typically cost?
If the guitar needs a Neck Reset , somewhere around $100”Canadian, if it doesn’t need a Neck Reset, $650. Includes a full refret and setup/fretdress.
Nothing you do to improve a guitar is ever wrong. Get real people
Butchery...
Thanks! I’ve been waiting for a comment like this…! 🤘
@@Hamm-toneGuitars I'm here to help. Smiles....