Thanks Steve, spot on advice and great video. I pulled C5 and it wouldn't even read on the capacitance meter. Replaced both capacitors with good quality parts and everything is working again.
Hello, just wanted to give you Feedback that your Video also helped me to fix my F62 and jumping temperature reading and random display lighting. Thank you very much for sharing your solution to us.
Hi..I just did this to my vaillant 837 eco tec plus and it worked...so I have 2 837s,, 1 at my dad's and 1 at mine...my dad's was faulty showing f62 and f61...swapped dad's pcb to my boiler and f62 came to my boiler where as my dad's boiler worked...so 💯 it's a faulty pcb...I had an older pcb from a 3rd boiler too capacitors off and boilers back on working....no temperature jumps......saved 180£ on a new pcb
Excellent job & many thanks for posting your feedback and reducing electronic waste buggering up our planet. These caps are a VERY common root cause to PCB issues. Cheers Steve
Hi, any chance of advising the replacement component that you purchased. Getting confused with the different types available and voltage ratings. Thanks.
@marksweeney1970 I got them off eBay described as 470uf 35v 105C LOW ESR Size 20mmx10mm Panasonic EEUFM1V471 and they are still running fine. P.S. One thing to take a special look at after fitting the PCB back to the boiler is to make sure it's fully pressed down and all the clips are engaged; otherwise, the on/off/timer dial may not work as there are contact pins on the PCB. Yes, it happened to me :)
Mine failed the engineer just replaced the PCB he said it was the big cap, the landlord covered the cost. He suggested there had been a power surge 😮 I did think from my a previous engineer job why can you just change the cap. Good video mate. It would be good if you could get broken boards and sell them covering your time changing the caps. Like you said let's try save the planet. The new board is significantly different
It's always the pcb causing a voltage drop across the board components, if it's an old boiler 8 + years old then it's not worth spending the ridiculous amount of money on a new pcb , there are plenty of companies around where you can part exchange your old board for a reconditioned board at a fraction of the cost of a new one.... 👍
Hello, I've seen SIMILAR ( Capacitor ) fix-suggestions on other ( identical F.61 related ) youtube entries. The appartment from my Son has a Vaillant ecoTEC Plus and since a short while, we had fully identical results. F.61 points to GAS-valve or PCB according to most found info. GAS-valve, as found in other info, can easily be MEASURED. The outside PENs ( after removing the plug from the gas-valve, 2-wites go to the 2 pens related ... ) should have a Ohm-reading from between 40 to 60 Ohm. I my case it was 54 Ohm ==> correct so NOT a GAS-valve issue. We also had these DISPLAY reading 'swings' where temp was jumping ... around. I bought two new capacitors ( 470 uF, 35V , 105 degrees Celcius specs... ) and removed the old to insert both new Capacitors ( mind the POLARITY since there is a + and - . CONFIRMATION all is fine : System is running nog for a week and all is stable and fine. Before, the issue did occur every x-hours. One important point is the Temperature specs ( 105 Celsius ) from these capacitors. They are situated on the TOP when the machine is closed and by that, they are relative close to the real HEATING centre. Capacitors possibly 'dry-out' because of this heat. The inside fluid DRYs out , and then their Capacity function/role can no longer be handled. Possibly the reason from the issues. The price from these two capacitors ( NEW ) in an Electronic-shop was less then one EURO for both together . This is nothing compare to the price from a PCB. In my case I found the replacemtn PCB on a web-page in a shop near-by, priced around 280 EURO ( without TAX ) ... So this FIX for less then one EURO was a HIT. THANKS for your input and please keep up the good work to INFORM.
Excellent! and I am very glad it fixed your problem for 1 Euro. Thanks also for some valid points (capacitor polarity etc) that I will add into the into text. Cheers Steve
Great video and instruction thanks 👍. Getting confused with the range of replacement capacitors to buy, especially the voltage. Any links or product specs available? Many thanks 😊
The capacitor spec is mentioned in the videos informaton text ...a 470uF 35V Electrolytic capacitors , BUT there would be no problem fitting a 1000uF 35V in these positions. You could fit low ESR (effective serial resistance) types ....they are better to reduce ripple however probably that will have little to no benefit to this application. Higher capacitance values and lower ESR types will generally give better supply filtering but cost more money, so if a 470uf does the job, thats what a manufacturer will fit. If you have an old busted Printer, TV, PC power supply, Hifi, Inverter etc etc ....you could probably find a suitable capacitor for free! Search Ebay, Digikey, Aliexpress, Amazon etc for ' 470uf 35V Aluminium electrolytic capacitors' 99% of them will be 105 C temperature rating which is ok
Hello, I'm getting the 'con' error on ecotec pro. Readings jumping around. No pilot. Was switched off at spur. Is there anything I can do to fix con error?
F28 error code indicates a boiler has an ignition or gas valve problem. Water pressure gauge dropping must be a leak somewhere (i.e somewhere in radiator loop or from pressure relief valve??) . If it's not ignighting theres a number of potential issues - really one for a gas engineer. Check condensate trap isnt blocked with muck. If they are sporadic error codes it could be worth changing caps. If your engineer says oh its your PCB...You know what to do ...change the caps ! Perhaps reply here once the cause is known
Hello. I am a combi repairman. I also repair certain parts of combi cards myself. I replace certain parts of the types of faults I take note of. Can you also specify which part on the card we need to replace in the f27 fault caused by the card in this combi?
ok I'm not 100% sure. F27 is an incorrect flame situation so it's not sensing the correct burn or ignition ..maybe gas valve, flame sensing, electrodes or as you say some I/O sensing and control on the PCB. Moisture, hi humidity or water corrosion on the PCB can be a cause of that. This link has some ideas and it may even be a capacitor related. www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3638769.html Please let us know how you fixed it in the end. Cheers
Ecotec pro 28 r2. Hot water on, Pump runs, diverter activates, fan comes on for a second, then off. Repaets this cycle. Vaillant tec says PCB. Is this this the possible fault on the pcb? Thankyou
I have a question… My EcoTec pro 28 has been shutting down every now and then, and the fault codes have been F61 and F62. I have observed the temperature gauge like the one explained on this video but the temperature doesn’t jump like on this video. Does that mean it’s not the fault described here. If so, what’s the way to diagnose the other possible faults? Many thanks in advance for any replies. This sounds like the place where the knowledge is hiding 👍
Well f61 and f62 are gas valve type problems..commonly if the valve is stuck or has a problem the fault tends to be pretty permanently there..i.e nearly every ignition. That's a gas engineer job for certain. If the fault occurrences are more sporadic random times and boiler is oldish then the PCB is highly likely. If it was me I'd find a electronics friend , some capacitors..old pc power supply s, old printer etc or ebay. swap the caps ...thats not much cost to try compared to new PCB or an engineer call out. Let us know the outcome! Cheers
just replaced pressure sensor on ecotec 630 F75..... Wouldn’t come back on so used a hair dryer suspected caps came back to life Couldn’t see voltage of caps as back on so thanks for info Can i just ask why you changed value to 1000uf on C5. Fixed my american fridge freezer a few years back same issue Caps only have so many 1000 hrs of life and these devices are on 24/7
Glad you fixed it ok. Umm why I fitted a 1000uf in place of a 470uf.? ..well a highly technical reason reason..I had one! it had suitable lead pich & voltage rating, a higher capacitance in such a PSU smoothing application is unlikely to be a problem..maybe even a benefit. Manufacturers usually fit a uF value to get the job done...more uF generally = more cost. Cheers Steve
Muchas Gracias! He podido solucionar el problema sustituyendo los dos condensadores electrolíticos de 470uF. Antes, para asegurarme, he mirado la resistencia interna de la válvula de Gas y me daba una lectura correcta. Ánimo a las demás personas. No es una tarea muy complicada y ahorras mucho dinero.
Muy bien!, hablo un Poco Espanol pero mi español es muy malo, me alegra mucho saber que reparaste tu caldera, ahorraste mucho dinero y confirmaste que es un trabajo fácil. bien hecho. feliz navidad!
Unless you live nextdoor it's probably not practical ! Speak to a local friend or contact familiar with electronics, show them the video and I'm sure they could help. Hope you fix it.
Sorry..thats something to do with the diverter valve stuck or not operating. This valve directs the circulating hot water via radiators or the primary side of the internal heat exchanger which then heats the tap water. Nothing to do with these F62 or other capacitor related faults. Engineer needed
Thanks Steve, spot on advice and great video. I pulled C5 and it wouldn't even read on the capacitance meter. Replaced both capacitors with good quality parts and everything is working again.
Hello, just wanted to give you Feedback that your Video also helped me to fix my F62 and jumping temperature reading and random display lighting. Thank you very much for sharing your solution to us.
Hi..I just did this to my vaillant 837 eco tec plus and it worked...so I have 2 837s,, 1 at my dad's and 1 at mine...my dad's was faulty showing f62 and f61...swapped dad's pcb to my boiler and f62 came to my boiler where as my dad's boiler worked...so 💯 it's a faulty pcb...I had an older pcb from a 3rd boiler too capacitors off and boilers back on working....no temperature jumps......saved 180£ on a new pcb
Excellent job & many thanks for posting your feedback and reducing electronic waste buggering up our planet. These caps are a VERY common root cause to PCB issues. Cheers Steve
@SteveT_IoW_UK world class video...thank u very much...changing the capacitors was easy too
Same here, replaced the shown caps and boiler's running well without flagging any errors (f61 before). Thanks!
Hi, any chance of advising the replacement component that you purchased. Getting confused with the different types available and voltage ratings. Thanks.
@marksweeney1970 I got them off eBay described as 470uf 35v 105C LOW ESR Size 20mmx10mm Panasonic EEUFM1V471 and they are still running fine. P.S. One thing to take a special look at after fitting the PCB back to the boiler is to make sure it's fully pressed down and all the clips are engaged; otherwise, the on/off/timer dial may not work as there are contact pins on the PCB. Yes, it happened to me :)
@@tomtomssperfect, thank you for responding 😀. Found them and ordered 👍
Mine failed the engineer just replaced the PCB he said it was the big cap, the landlord covered the cost. He suggested there had been a power surge 😮 I did think from my a previous engineer job why can you just change the cap. Good video mate. It would be good if you could get broken boards and sell them covering your time changing the caps. Like you said let's try save the planet. The new board is significantly different
Brilliant......just changed my caps and working again!!! Saved a fortune...thankyou!!
Excellent! I am glad it worked for you
Excellent, where can I source this capacitor?
It's always the pcb causing a voltage drop across the board components, if it's an old boiler 8 + years old then it's not worth spending the ridiculous amount of money on a new pcb , there are plenty of companies around where you can part exchange your old board for a reconditioned board at a fraction of the cost of a new one.... 👍
Hello,
I've seen SIMILAR ( Capacitor ) fix-suggestions on other ( identical F.61 related ) youtube entries.
The appartment from my Son has a Vaillant ecoTEC Plus and since a short while, we had fully identical results.
F.61 points to GAS-valve or PCB according to most found info.
GAS-valve, as found in other info, can easily be MEASURED. The outside PENs ( after removing the plug from the gas-valve, 2-wites go to the 2 pens related ... ) should have a Ohm-reading from between 40 to 60 Ohm. I my case it was 54 Ohm ==> correct so NOT a GAS-valve issue.
We also had these DISPLAY reading 'swings' where temp was jumping ... around.
I bought two new capacitors ( 470 uF, 35V , 105 degrees Celcius specs... ) and removed the old to insert both new Capacitors ( mind the POLARITY since there is a + and - .
CONFIRMATION all is fine : System is running nog for a week and all is stable and fine. Before, the issue did occur every x-hours.
One important point is the Temperature specs ( 105 Celsius ) from these capacitors. They are situated on the TOP when the machine is closed and by that, they are relative close to the real HEATING centre.
Capacitors possibly 'dry-out' because of this heat. The inside fluid DRYs out , and then their Capacity function/role can no longer be handled. Possibly the reason from the issues.
The price from these two capacitors ( NEW ) in an Electronic-shop was less then one EURO for both together . This is nothing compare to the price from a PCB. In my case I found the replacemtn PCB on a web-page in a shop near-by, priced around 280 EURO ( without TAX ) ...
So this FIX for less then one EURO was a HIT.
THANKS for your input and please keep up the good work to INFORM.
Excellent! and I am very glad it fixed your problem for 1 Euro. Thanks also for some valid points (capacitor polarity etc) that I will add into the into text. Cheers Steve
Great video and instruction thanks 👍. Getting confused with the range of replacement capacitors to buy, especially the voltage. Any links or product specs available? Many thanks 😊
The capacitor spec is mentioned in the videos informaton text ...a 470uF 35V Electrolytic capacitors , BUT there would be no problem fitting a 1000uF 35V in these positions. You could fit low ESR (effective serial resistance) types ....they are better to reduce ripple however probably that will have little to no benefit to this application. Higher capacitance values and lower ESR types will generally give better supply filtering but cost more money, so if a 470uf does the job, thats what a manufacturer will fit. If you have an old busted Printer, TV, PC power supply, Hifi, Inverter etc etc ....you could probably find a suitable capacitor for free! Search Ebay, Digikey, Aliexpress, Amazon etc for ' 470uf 35V Aluminium electrolytic capacitors' 99% of them will be 105 C temperature rating which is ok
Hello,
I'm getting the 'con' error on ecotec pro. Readings jumping around. No pilot. Was switched off at spur. Is there anything I can do to fix con error?
Hi, we get F62 and F28 but also water pressure keeps dropping few times per day.. is it PCB please?
F28 error code indicates a boiler has an ignition or gas valve problem. Water pressure gauge dropping must be a leak somewhere (i.e somewhere in radiator loop or from pressure relief valve??) . If it's not ignighting theres a number of potential issues - really one for a gas engineer. Check condensate trap isnt blocked with muck. If they are sporadic error codes it could be worth changing caps. If your engineer says oh its your PCB...You know what to do ...change the caps ! Perhaps reply here once the cause is known
Hello. I am a combi repairman. I also repair certain parts of combi cards myself. I replace certain parts of the types of faults I take note of. Can you also specify which part on the card we need to replace in the f27 fault caused by the card in this combi?
ok I'm not 100% sure. F27 is an incorrect flame situation so it's not sensing the correct burn or ignition ..maybe gas valve, flame sensing, electrodes or as you say some I/O sensing and control on the PCB. Moisture, hi humidity or water corrosion on the PCB can be a cause of that. This link has some ideas and it may even be a capacitor related.
www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3638769.html
Please let us know how you fixed it in the end. Cheers
Ecotec pro 28 r2. Hot water on, Pump runs, diverter activates, fan comes on for a second, then off. Repaets this cycle. Vaillant tec says PCB. Is this this the possible fault on the pcb? Thankyou
What is the phone to contact?
Ive hot f61 issue.. intermittent and temp jumping around ecotech 28....so capacitor issue? Where to buy?
eBay or look at extracting some suitable near values from an old pc power supply, old printer, old TV! Etc
I have a question…
My EcoTec pro 28 has been shutting down every now and then, and the fault codes have been F61 and F62.
I have observed the temperature gauge like the one explained on this video but the temperature doesn’t jump like on this video. Does that mean it’s not the fault described here. If so, what’s the way to diagnose the other possible faults?
Many thanks in advance for any replies. This sounds like the place where the knowledge is hiding 👍
Well f61 and f62 are gas valve type problems..commonly if the valve is stuck or has a problem the fault tends to be pretty permanently there..i.e nearly every ignition. That's a gas engineer job for certain. If the fault occurrences are more sporadic random times and boiler is oldish then the PCB is highly likely. If it was me I'd find a electronics friend , some capacitors..old pc power supply s, old printer etc or ebay. swap the caps ...thats not much cost to try compared to new PCB or an engineer call out. Let us know the outcome! Cheers
just replaced pressure sensor on ecotec 630 F75..... Wouldn’t come back on so used a hair dryer suspected caps came back to life Couldn’t see voltage of caps as back on so thanks for info Can i just ask why you changed value to 1000uf on C5. Fixed my american fridge freezer a few years back same issue Caps only have so many 1000 hrs of life and these devices are on 24/7
Glad you fixed it ok. Umm why I fitted a 1000uf in place of a 470uf.? ..well a highly technical reason reason..I had one! it had suitable lead pich & voltage rating, a higher capacitance in such a PSU smoothing application is unlikely to be a problem..maybe even a benefit. Manufacturers usually fit a uF value to get the job done...more uF generally = more cost. Cheers Steve
wished I found this video earlier.
Thanks a lot
Muchas Gracias!
He podido solucionar el problema sustituyendo los dos condensadores electrolíticos de 470uF.
Antes, para asegurarme, he mirado la resistencia interna de la válvula de Gas y me daba una lectura correcta.
Ánimo a las demás personas. No es una tarea muy complicada y ahorras mucho dinero.
Muy bien!, hablo un Poco Espanol pero mi español es muy malo, me alegra mucho saber que reparaste tu caldera, ahorraste mucho dinero y confirmaste que es un trabajo fácil. bien hecho. feliz navidad!
can you do on my boiler? happy to pay of course?
Unless you live nextdoor it's probably not practical ! Speak to a local friend or contact familiar with electronics, show them the video and I'm sure they could help. Hope you fix it.
hi can you tell me when i open the hot water the heating comes on
Sorry..thats something to do with the diverter valve stuck or not operating. This valve directs the circulating hot water via radiators or the primary side of the internal heat exchanger which then heats the tap water. Nothing to do with these F62 or other capacitor related faults. Engineer needed
Can you diagnose it's a capacitor issue for error F27 on a pcb which relates to the fan issue
Regards Muwafak
Vaillant is rubbish boiler, over rated and over priced. Always issues with PCB, gas valve and fan. Parts are very expensive as well.