I find a finer paper works best, like recite(?)... after a while it becomes old hat and you can do it without paper. I have never lost a spur gear in 9 years running too tight makes a lot of noise too loose will strip out very quickly, Thanks you guys always give good advice....
Thanks again AMain, I was just about to make a Video on setting up a Kyosho Trail King with the 13 tooth Steel Pinion Gear and setting up the proper Gear Mesh... If I still do it, will refer to this Video so you get credit. Thanks again AMain! Bruno ⚓
I have a arrma Typhon 3s v3 and when I try to set the mesh as I turn the screws the motor mount shifts and I lose my spot where I wanted it set and it becomes too tight...so frustrating
Your videos really really help is it bad to have gear mesh really tight like pinion gear tooth touching the the back in between the two spur gear teeth
My gear can't go close enough to mesh properly so there is this horrible clicking sound do u think i should make that little sliding hole longer? the hole where your engine mount slides along
I don't understand why no one has made a good helical gear for center diffs and pinions... The known down side to helical cut is a slight loss in efficiency vs a like sized strait cut gear, but they can take much more power input without the noise and deliver that power much more smoothly without the slop. Setting gear mesh would be a load easier to. Theoretically, one should be able to produce a helical cut spur and pinion that is 1/3 the width of a standard cut set, which would make up for the efficiency loss and even help with less rotational mass, thus further reducing parasitic loss.
I have learned that the only advantage of helical gears is less noise and more smoothness. Cost, weight, losses, need for special bearings would make it a hard sell in RC. In full scale auto racing it's all straight cut gears. The whine and slop is horrendous but everything else is superior.
Yeah I heard this argument before, but it's no good in my opinion. It doesn't really cost more because you can just seat two helical gears together to make one normal width gear and to make it a herringbone at the same time without needing a special cut on one gear face. Secondly I am not sure what your talking about when it comes to the bearings. There is no need for anything special here. The same bearings can be used. As far as real cars go, the reason they use straight cut gears is because they are using metal. The high strength plastics used on RC cars are far superior to the metals used in real race cars per molecular size. We are not dealing with a real car. We are talking about a light weight model that is typically 1/10 scale, that run scale speeds of 600mph. No real car could do what these models can and should not be compared structurally as such. Lastly. RC helicopters already use helical gears as their main cyclic drive. There is a reason they do this. The same one I am trying to get these RC engineers to accept as superior. But they won't listen and that's fine. I understand the replacement market is their bread winner in the big picture. It's just to bad the industry is like every other one and chooses to use inferior tech for profitable reasons. If I designed my own RC car, it wouldn't even have diffs or drive lines period. We are in an age of multi-motor drones that communicate between them selves (ESC/motors) from boards that synchronize such information with accelerometers and gyro feed back. My design would utilize this with two shaft motors that would set where the front and rear diffs are now. No more tuning diffs and replacing gears. Everything would be adjustable on the fly. Efficiency would be through the roof. Why don't we have this already is beyond me...
just sued this method hoping for the best lol. tried doing without and it seemed crazy loud. guess to tight. than to loose it kinda sounded like plastic smacking. used the paper now it's not as loud nor the odd plastic smack noise when y brake engages so i mean it must be correct now lol. worse case i strip the plastic and gives reason to buy metal lol. luckily those parts are the cheap side of things
I find a finer paper works best, like recite(?)... after a while it becomes old hat and you can do it without paper. I have never lost a spur gear in 9 years running too tight makes a lot of noise too loose will strip out very quickly, Thanks you guys always give good advice....
receipt ffs it's spelled receipt.
Thanks again AMain, I was just about to make a Video on setting up a Kyosho Trail King with the 13 tooth Steel Pinion Gear and setting up the proper Gear Mesh... If I still do it, will refer to this Video so you get credit.
Thanks again AMain!
Bruno ⚓
Sounds good, thank you Bruno. Good luck with your video too!
-Brett
I have a arrma Typhon 3s v3 and when I try to set the mesh as I turn the screws the motor mount shifts and I lose my spot where I wanted it set and it becomes too tight...so frustrating
Bro i have the same problem. I shreddered 3 main gears because of it.
Yeah, it happens. Good to double check the mesh after securing the motor down.
-Brett
Your videos really really help is it bad to have gear mesh really tight like pinion gear tooth touching the the back in between the two spur gear teeth
Nice short video!
Very helpful thanks!
Thnx so much man I was like why does it keep on stopping it self THNX easy fix as I did a break in
My gear can't go close enough to mesh properly so there is this horrible clicking sound do u think i should make that little sliding hole longer? the hole where your engine mount slides along
I test mine with paper too if it tears the paper it's too tight
I don't understand why no one has made a good helical gear for center diffs and pinions... The known down side to helical cut is a slight loss in efficiency vs a like sized strait cut gear, but they can take much more power input without the noise and deliver that power much more smoothly without the slop. Setting gear mesh would be a load easier to. Theoretically, one should be able to produce a helical cut spur and pinion that is 1/3 the width of a standard cut set, which would make up for the efficiency loss and even help with less rotational mass, thus further reducing parasitic loss.
I have learned that the only advantage of helical gears is less noise and more smoothness. Cost, weight, losses, need for special bearings would make it a hard sell in RC. In full scale auto racing it's all straight cut gears. The whine and slop is horrendous but everything else is superior.
Yeah I heard this argument before, but it's no good in my opinion. It doesn't really cost more because you can just seat two helical gears together to make one normal width gear and to make it a herringbone at the same time without needing a special cut on one gear face. Secondly I am not sure what your talking about when it comes to the bearings. There is no need for anything special here. The same bearings can be used. As far as real cars go, the reason they use straight cut gears is because they are using metal. The high strength plastics used on RC cars are far superior to the metals used in real race cars per molecular size. We are not dealing with a real car. We are talking about a light weight model that is typically 1/10 scale, that run scale speeds of 600mph. No real car could do what these models can and should not be compared structurally as such.
Lastly. RC helicopters already use helical gears as their main cyclic drive. There is a reason they do this. The same one I am trying to get these RC engineers to accept as superior. But they won't listen and that's fine. I understand the replacement market is their bread winner in the big picture. It's just to bad the industry is like every other one and chooses to use inferior tech for profitable reasons.
If I designed my own RC car, it wouldn't even have diffs or drive lines period. We are in an age of multi-motor drones that communicate between them selves (ESC/motors) from boards that synchronize such information with accelerometers and gyro feed back. My design would utilize this with two shaft motors that would set where the front and rear diffs are now. No more tuning diffs and replacing gears. Everything would be adjustable on the fly. Efficiency would be through the roof. Why don't we have this already is beyond me...
Is the gear supposed to be flush with the pinion gear. Like even or is the bigger gear supposed to overhang the smaller gear
just sued this method hoping for the best lol. tried doing without and it seemed crazy loud. guess to tight. than to loose it kinda sounded like plastic smacking. used the paper now it's not as loud nor the odd plastic smack noise when y brake engages so i mean it must be correct now lol. worse case i strip the plastic and gives reason to buy metal lol. luckily those parts are the cheap side of things
Does apply to 4x4 too?
Thank you so much 😁
I cant do this on my vaterra twin hammers v2 cuz the spur is blocking the bolts
Do I need to keep grease on the pinion and spur gear, or should they be dry??
I would for good measure but idk if it’s necessary
Definitely dry. Grease will attract dirt/pebbles and can even shatter the teeth if one gets in there.
Leave them dry like one person commented. Dirt and debris like to collect in this area so it's best to use the gear cover if you have one too.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies thank you
INTERESTING
nice method
So how can you set the gear mesh properly on a vehicle like the RC18T2/B2? You can't get to the gears because of the design.
@Ronnie Jones will I reply, or Amain?
No Loctite ?
save money. RC isn't a good way to save money to be honest
Yeah, I keep sinking my darn boats! Getting expensive!
Motor screws, not bolts..
1:03 what?
What ever happened to this guy?
Shaun still works at AMain and still races r/c. We'll tell him you said hi.
-Brett