Yes popped up as i sat down to my post lunch rest and read. Perfect interlude to watch your vid. And agree with other comment you have a great story telling voice. 😊
That was a really good explanation of cathodic protection. Especially about connections to your sea cockspur etc. Really good video. Thans for sharing. ❤
Thank you Graham. It's been thought about for a long time, some of it was videoed a year ago when Zephyr IV was out of the water. Once I started writing a script, it sort of fell into place. I was so lucky to find the distressed propeller at Boat Breakers. It does sort of hone your attention :-) - Thanks for watching, if you haven't subscribed yet, I'd be really pleased if you did.. Best Wishes ... Dave
@@davesailing I'm just a random dude on the internet that enjoyed this peaceful 8 minutes. Your content is enjoyable in the same way Baumgartner Restoration is. Interesting and peaceful.
Who'd of thought sitting at your kitchen table and dangling 2 screws from a piece of wood into a jar of salty water could be so interesting 😊 Great video.
Well I found it interesting :-) Thanks for watching Kath. I'm wondering if there is any mileage in an online, "Screw Dangling Workshop". What do you think ?
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing. It's much appreciated. There are other boat maintenance videos on the Channel, which you might find interesting, Check out - ua-cam.com/play/PLHpRqzORk6uONy_f0M0TSPxlstENhj__x.html . Thank you also for reminding me of, "Mad World by Gary Jules" and introducing me to, "Island in the sun by Wheezer". I hope that's where I'm going when I finally pop me clogs :-).
Hi, Considering the boat spent from December to March static on the Marina then I think it worked reasonably well. If I was staying with that prop, I would really clean it up and abrade it with a coarser paper to get the best possible key for the primer and probably add three coats of antifouling rather that two. It's a shame I couldn't get to take video before they blasted it with the pressure washer. I would like to have seen how much of the primer came detached under normal use. It didn't work at all well on the P bracket. Too hard I think and didn't erode to expose more biocide. Had a few problems here, been a bit poorly, so behind schedule. Hoping to be sailing by end of May. Good to hear from you ... Take Care Dave
Well the theory suggests that. On my case all the bronze bits are wired back to the big sacrificial anode bolted to the hull. And none of my seacocks have gone pink after 30 years. I have a shaft anode to protect my propeller but now I've upgraded to a Feather Stream it has its own bolt on anode. You can over protect a boat but mine seems about right. Glad you enjoyed the video. I learned a few interesting things, whilst researching it. And it was fun playing around with the jar of salt water and different combination of metals..Best wishes... Dave
i bought a hanging anode, where should i connect it? i was thinking that i could protect my prop with it, but also my hull anode is almost dissolved fully, so where should i connect my ganging anode to ? i see that electro eliminators are available, but not sure that ill buy one of those just yet, whats your advice?
Hi - My immediate reaction is to say, "replace the hull anode as soon as possible". If it is eroding away then it must be doing it's job, sacrificing itself instead of the prop. I normally change mine every couple of years. One they start eroding they become less effective as the surface corrosion acts as a resistance to the electrical connection through the water. If you hang an anode over the side then it should ideally be connected to where the contacts for the hull anode come into the hull. That way it will be helping the hull anode do its job. You must however check that the hull anode is electrically connected to the Propellor and also to any bronze seacocks you might have. Use you multimeter on the ohms range to check for continuity. The dangling anode should only be treated as a temporary fix. Get the Hull Anode replaced ASAP. I don't have any personal experience of electro eliminators but I suspect they need very careful setting up to ensue that you don't electro plate the sacrificial anode with copper from the Prop. I hope that helps - I thought the video explained the reason for the Anode(s) perhaps it would help you to watch it again ? .. Best Wishes ... Dave
@davesailing thank you! yes, as soon as we get the boat out of the water ill replace the hull anode ! thats exactly my feelings too! but might not lift the boat out for another couple months, so i bought a hanging anode so that i at least have something to wire up to the metals i want to protect. its a bit too cold to dive down and swap the anode whilst in the water at the moment so ill have to wait to replace it in the normal fashion. my thinking was to connect the hanging anode to the bolts where the normal hull anode was connected to but when i looked on the inside of the boat today i didnt see any obvious bolts at the position of the hull anode, so im a bit mystified. might the hull anode be connected directly to the keel and thus be out of sight inside the boat? or perhaps the ends of the bolts are covered up by a block of wood where the hull anodes connect to ? this is an idea i thought could be the case. its a 1950's wooden boat. and non of the sea cocks are connected to a bonding point, so this is a job i now realise i will have to undertake. and from the videps ive watched, an electro eliminator is device which has a set of brushes that contact the prop shaft and then the cable from the anode attaches to the terminals of it. im not sure if the hull anode was protecting the prop or not, what does a hull anode normally protect on a wooden hull boat? the boat has a mass of steel on the keel at the very bottom of the boat. ive been watching lots of videos on galvanic corrosion. thanks for your reply.
Excellent presentation and very clear description of the anodic processes. Best
Thank You Mark. You were on the ball today, the first one to view it and barely 10 minutes after it went public. Take Care ... Dave
Yes popped up as i sat down to my post lunch rest and read. Perfect interlude to watch your vid. And agree with other comment you have a great story telling voice. 😊
That was a really good explanation of cathodic protection. Especially about connections to your sea cockspur etc. Really good video. Thans for sharing. ❤
Thank you Graham. It's been thought about for a long time, some of it was videoed a year ago when Zephyr IV was out of the water. Once I started writing a script, it sort of fell into place. I was so lucky to find the distressed propeller at Boat Breakers. It does sort of hone your attention :-) - Thanks for watching, if you haven't subscribed yet, I'd be really pleased if you did.. Best Wishes ... Dave
What a beautiful voice.
Well that's a very kind thing to say, thank you, quite made my day :-) A present from my Dad I guess.
@@davesailing I'm just a random dude on the internet that enjoyed this peaceful 8 minutes.
Your content is enjoyable in the same way Baumgartner Restoration is. Interesting and peaceful.
Well you are very welcome "random dude" @@unpersonableme1805
Who'd of thought sitting at your kitchen table and dangling 2 screws from a piece of wood into a jar of salty water could be so interesting 😊 Great video.
Well I found it interesting :-) Thanks for watching Kath. I'm wondering if there is any mileage in an online, "Screw Dangling Workshop". What do you think ?
Sounds like a winner to me 😊
Great video, can't wait to see more
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing. It's much appreciated. There are other boat maintenance videos on the Channel, which you might find interesting, Check out - ua-cam.com/play/PLHpRqzORk6uONy_f0M0TSPxlstENhj__x.html .
Thank you also for reminding me of, "Mad World by Gary Jules" and introducing me to, "Island in the sun by Wheezer". I hope that's where I'm going when I finally pop me clogs :-).
Now i'm wondering if i should get one for my car...
Well not unless you have an Amphicar or maybe a Dukw. However it would be a good talking point at the pub. Cheers ... Dave
A fellow Westerly Storm? I tried the eco power and thought it rubbish. Yours appeared to work a bit better.
Hi, Considering the boat spent from December to March static on the Marina then I think it worked reasonably well. If I was staying with that prop, I would really clean it up and abrade it with a coarser paper to get the best possible key for the primer and probably add three coats of antifouling rather that two. It's a shame I couldn't get to take video before they blasted it with the pressure washer. I would like to have seen how much of the primer came detached under normal use. It didn't work at all well on the P bracket. Too hard I think and didn't erode to expose more biocide. Had a few problems here, been a bit poorly, so behind schedule. Hoping to be sailing by end of May. Good to hear from you ... Take Care Dave
So, every bronze throughull should be wired to a sacrificial anode?
Great video btw :)
Well the theory suggests that. On my case all the bronze bits are wired back to the big sacrificial anode bolted to the hull. And none of my seacocks have gone pink after 30 years. I have a shaft anode to protect my propeller but now I've upgraded to a Feather Stream it has its own bolt on anode. You can over protect a boat but mine seems about right. Glad you enjoyed the video. I learned a few interesting things, whilst researching it. And it was fun playing around with the jar of salt water and different combination of metals..Best wishes... Dave
i bought a hanging anode, where should i connect it? i was thinking that i could protect my prop with it, but also my hull anode is almost dissolved fully, so where should i connect my ganging anode to ? i see that electro eliminators are available, but not sure that ill buy one of those just yet, whats your advice?
Hi - My immediate reaction is to say, "replace the hull anode as soon as possible". If it is eroding away then it must be doing it's job, sacrificing itself instead of the prop. I normally change mine every couple of years. One they start eroding they become less effective as the surface corrosion acts as a resistance to the electrical connection through the water.
If you hang an anode over the side then it should ideally be connected to where the contacts for the hull anode come into the hull. That way it will be helping the hull anode do its job. You must however check that the hull anode is electrically connected to the Propellor and also to any bronze seacocks you might have. Use you multimeter on the ohms range to check for continuity.
The dangling anode should only be treated as a temporary fix. Get the Hull Anode replaced ASAP.
I don't have any personal experience of electro eliminators but I suspect they need very careful setting up to ensue that you don't electro plate the sacrificial anode with copper from the Prop.
I hope that helps - I thought the video explained the reason for the Anode(s) perhaps it would help you to watch it again ? .. Best Wishes ... Dave
@davesailing thank you! yes, as soon as we get the boat out of the water ill replace the hull anode ! thats exactly my feelings too! but might not lift the boat out for another couple months, so i bought a hanging anode so that i at least have something to wire up to the metals i want to protect. its a bit too cold to dive down and swap the anode whilst in the water at the moment so ill have to wait to replace it in the normal fashion. my thinking was to connect the hanging anode to the bolts where the normal hull anode was connected to but when i looked on the inside of the boat today i didnt see any obvious bolts at the position of the hull anode, so im a bit mystified. might the hull anode be connected directly to the keel and thus be out of sight inside the boat? or perhaps the ends of the bolts are covered up by a block of wood where the hull anodes connect to ? this is an idea i thought could be the case. its a 1950's wooden boat. and non of the sea cocks are connected to a bonding point, so this is a job i now realise i will have to undertake. and from the videps ive watched, an electro eliminator is device which has a set of brushes that contact the prop shaft and then the cable from the anode attaches to the terminals of it. im not sure if the hull anode was protecting the prop or not, what does a hull anode normally protect on a wooden hull boat? the boat has a mass of steel on the keel at the very bottom of the boat. ive been watching lots of videos on galvanic corrosion. thanks for your reply.