I had a Glendo hone for sharpening carbide hand engraving tools. Visited the company for a week long class. Got a tour of the shop to see the production of the tools and machines. They also were doing job shop work to keep their CNC machines always running. Great company.
this tool has been on my want list and luck of the draw I found it on FB from a nice family where the dad had pasted away and they were closing the shop after 60 yrs...
I see one of my six 24vdc motors turning into a slow speed grinder one day??? Naw, the Metal Shaper will not like getting put off any more, hehe 😞. This Dec marks two years that Sammie and I brought it home. Where does time go? Today is TGIF (toes go in first) PET scan day, hope the table is warm and toasty,,,hehe! Mail headed your way, Bear
When I was at small machine shop that made fixture used to grind the top of the insert with a diamond wheel 1 side at a time was good get to the roughing stage then fine tune later after heatreat or no heatreat
Saludos Chuck, That's a great tool to have in the shop. I've wanted to build my own. The tools i use never seem to be sharp enough. I'll have to get busy and see what I can do. I think I have all the parts I need to to make one. Now I need to find the time. Merry Christmas to You and yours and a Happy New Year! KOKO
I've got one I use primarily for sharpening solid carbide boring bars and special form tools. Inserts are "too cheap" to justify resharpening but I would recommend cutting the full radius back rather than flatting out the rake and chip breaker. A medium-light cutting insert like Mitsubishi's MJ chipbreaks are great to resharpen because it doesn't have an edge hone, has a continuous positive rake down to the chipbreaker, and they're cheap. CarbideDepot has CNMG43# for less than 90 bucks for 10 inserts, basically $2 per edge. If you have any of the accu-finish wheels, save it!! Even if wears down to the aluminum. They're great for spindle-off lapping for extremely tight forms while maintaining front/side relief all the way around. You can lap as fine as your finest measure equipment. Congratulations on your new machine tool! Oh and I like your thumbnail! How'd you make that?
thanks for viewing and your informative comments, curious do you have the "tool stop guide"? for the Accu finish? Regarding wheels search "replacing a wore out diamond disk on a Glendo Accu-Finish wheel". The thumbnail photo was from a friend who merged the photos....
Hi Chuck. Merry x-mas. I think carbide boring bars and other brazed on tools is where this would shine. Altering the chip breaker geometry on an insert will probably give mixed results. I need to figure out what to do with my carbide boring bars for the mill. They are KBC brand chinesium and they always seem to either rub or just produce ridiculous tool pressure. I have tried to change the approach angle and grind more relief on the side to avoid rubbing and make them more positive but have had mediocre results. Any thoughts?
Compare the height of the cutting edge of the carbide to the center axis of its shank. If the carbide is higher, then you're guaranteed to be introducing a negative rake as you bore. Negative rake requires greater setup stiffness. I'd bet those brazed on carbide are well above 'center line'. If you ground the cutting edge to be at 'center line' or lower, then you can position the boring bar in the boring head to introduce a positive rake.
I centred the boring head on one of the vice jaws and rotated the carbide until it was flat to the jaw to ensure the carbide was square to the bore and then ground the back edge to ensure it wasn't rubbing but it still does not cut well. I even went so far as to mill a flat on the shank so that it would index to this position every time. It seemed to cut better but the edge did not last long. Railroad track is not very nice to machine mind you...
@@barrygerbracht5077 Not sure what you're trying to achieve by doing all that lining up. If your cutting edge is higher than the center of the tool shank, the cutting edge will always present itself as a negative rake tool regardless of how it gets oriented within the boring head. imgur image U9ueSA6 Hopefully that diagram makes it a little bit clearer what I'm trying to get at. In another sense, it is as if you're running a boring bar on the lathe with the tool higher than the center axis of the spindle. It's not impossible to make nice bores with a negative rake tool but honestly, but it's one of the easiest and first things to check.
Is there dust collection on that grinder? Carbide dust is particularly bad for your lungs. Nice score on the grinder! Pattern in end finish looks like something may be loose.
no dust collection, unit runs so slow it is contained some what, you can also wet the wheel when grinding, thanks for viewing and I did notice the end finish....
thanks for viewing, I paid 750 for the unit, I will be showing all of the items in another video. regarding the wheels, you can make your own (I am going to do a special one)
Wow, nice grinder. Just a tip, don’t use red text for your video descriptions. It’s illegible, especially for a colour blind person against a low contrast background 😁.
Hoi nice grinder, but it seems go forget to grind clearance on the cuttingtool. it has to be at least 5 degrees. check the crosslide for play your tool is not steady.
Love the subject of tool sharpening. More please. Thanks Chuck
more videos on this will follow, thanks for viewing
I will send over my 50 lbs of used inserts for refurb. Those are nice grinders. Nice find Chuck, Merry Christmas.
thank Randy for viewing, yes this unit has been on my want list....
I had a Glendo hone for sharpening carbide hand engraving tools. Visited the company for a week long class. Got a tour of the shop to see the production of the tools and machines. They also were doing job shop work to keep their CNC machines always running. Great company.
thanks for viewing Kurt, that must have been a great week..
Cool tool, Chuck. I have wanted one of these for a while.
this tool has been on my want list and luck of the draw I found it on FB from a nice family where the dad had pasted away and they were closing the shop after 60 yrs...
That is going to be a handy tool. Merry Christmas to You and yours and a Happy New Year! Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
thanks for viewing my friend, wishing you great health thru the Xmas season and a great new year....
Hay Chuck.
Nicely done
thanks for viewing Kimber....merry xmas
Nice tool 👍👍
When your done sharping Randy's I have a few more to add to the pile 😁
door is always open for you....thanks for viewing
Cool tool. Wish to see more about it.
more to come...thanks for viewing
I see one of my six 24vdc motors turning into a slow speed grinder one day??? Naw, the Metal Shaper will not like getting put off any more, hehe 😞. This Dec marks two years that Sammie and I brought it home. Where does time go? Today is TGIF (toes go in first) PET scan day, hope the table is warm and toasty,,,hehe! Mail headed your way, Bear
wishing you all the best in your health issues....time does fly.....thanks for viewing
Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas to you and your family 😅
Thanks for viewing and my best wishes to you also...
When I was at small machine shop that made fixture used to grind the top of the insert with a diamond wheel 1 side at a time was good get to the roughing stage then fine tune later after heatreat or no heatreat
nice tool!
thanks for viewing
Saludos Chuck, That's a great tool to have in the shop. I've wanted to build my own. The tools i use never seem to be sharp enough. I'll have to get busy and see what I can do. I think I have all the parts I need to to make one. Now I need to find the time. Merry Christmas to You and yours and a Happy New Year! KOKO
Hello Jim, thanks for viewing, ahhh, another project for the list...LOL, Merry Christmas
I've got one I use primarily for sharpening solid carbide boring bars and special form tools. Inserts are "too cheap" to justify resharpening but I would recommend cutting the full radius back rather than flatting out the rake and chip breaker. A medium-light cutting insert like Mitsubishi's MJ chipbreaks are great to resharpen because it doesn't have an edge hone, has a continuous positive rake down to the chipbreaker, and they're cheap. CarbideDepot has CNMG43# for less than 90 bucks for 10 inserts, basically $2 per edge.
If you have any of the accu-finish wheels, save it!! Even if wears down to the aluminum. They're great for spindle-off lapping for extremely tight forms while maintaining front/side relief all the way around. You can lap as fine as your finest measure equipment.
Congratulations on your new machine tool! Oh and I like your thumbnail! How'd you make that?
thanks for viewing and your informative comments, curious do you have the "tool stop guide"? for the Accu finish? Regarding wheels search "replacing a wore out diamond disk on a Glendo Accu-Finish wheel". The thumbnail photo was from a friend who merged the photos....
Hi Chuck. Merry x-mas. I think carbide boring bars and other brazed on tools is where this would shine. Altering the chip breaker geometry on an insert will probably give mixed results. I need to figure out what to do with my carbide boring bars for the mill. They are KBC brand chinesium and they always seem to either rub or just produce ridiculous tool pressure. I have tried to change the approach angle and grind more relief on the side to avoid rubbing and make them more positive but have had mediocre results. Any thoughts?
Compare the height of the cutting edge of the carbide to the center axis of its shank. If the carbide is higher, then you're guaranteed to be introducing a negative rake as you bore. Negative rake requires greater setup stiffness. I'd bet those brazed on carbide are well above 'center line'. If you ground the cutting edge to be at 'center line' or lower, then you can position the boring bar in the boring head to introduce a positive rake.
I centred the boring head on one of the vice jaws and rotated the carbide until it was flat to the jaw to ensure the carbide was square to the bore and then ground the back edge to ensure it wasn't rubbing but it still does not cut well. I even went so far as to mill a flat on the shank so that it would index to this position every time. It seemed to cut better but the edge did not last long. Railroad track is not very nice to machine mind you...
@@barrygerbracht5077 Not sure what you're trying to achieve by doing all that lining up. If your cutting edge is higher than the center of the tool shank, the cutting edge will always present itself as a negative rake tool regardless of how it gets oriented within the boring head. imgur image U9ueSA6 Hopefully that diagram makes it a little bit clearer what I'm trying to get at. In another sense, it is as if you're running a boring bar on the lathe with the tool higher than the center axis of the spindle.
It's not impossible to make nice bores with a negative rake tool but honestly, but it's one of the easiest and first things to check.
Nice tool score.
thanks for viewing and the xmas card...nice
Your welcome Chuck.@@outsidescrewball
Is there dust collection on that grinder? Carbide dust is particularly bad for your lungs. Nice score on the grinder! Pattern in end finish looks like something may be loose.
no dust collection, unit runs so slow it is contained some what, you can also wet the wheel when grinding, thanks for viewing and I did notice the end finish....
We used a service grinder to take down the top edge .020 .010 or .005 made all sides of the insert was the same
This was for a face milling cutter
I have found that after the coating is gone there not long for this world , would work good on uncoated inserts tho
thanks for viewing and your information..
I picked one up at a garage sale - but it only had the wheel mounted in it...... a new set of wheels is over $300 - so that's a future purchase
thanks for viewing, I paid 750 for the unit, I will be showing all of the items in another video. regarding the wheels, you can make your own (I am going to do a special one)
@@outsidescrewball Please do a video on how you can make your own. A set of wheels are $400 for this puppy. I only paid $60 for the base unit
Wow, nice grinder. Just a tip, don’t use red text for your video descriptions. It’s illegible, especially for a colour blind person against a low contrast background 😁.
thanks for viewing and your tip!!
Hoi nice grinder, but it seems go forget to grind clearance on the cuttingtool. it has to be at least 5 degrees.
check the crosslide for play your tool is not steady.
yes there was clearance which existed, I only dressed the actual edge....yes, I noticed the end finish on the part...thanks for viewing
I think you're feeding much too slow. 20 seconds to face the bar - should be more like 4.
thanks for viewing and yes I agree..
0:00-1:46 That's galling on the insert, buildup. Not damage.
thanks for viewing and your informative comment