Nice work, Jeff! I did this at a doctor's office to comply with HIPPA rules for separation of the waiting area to the check in area. It's a time-consuming job and takes some time. Yours looks great!
What type of person/company would you hire to install this type of window? I recently had an old window blocked up with cinderblock. I am very unhappy with it. I would like to replace it with glass blocking. It is in my kitchen. It's too heavy of a job for me .
Great video Jeff. Many, if not all, other glass block videos left out useful information. In particular the metal supports at every third course, brick ties, and using glass block mortar between glass blocks, and the type S mortar for contact with rough opening. The spacers do come up in other videos, though, none showed, let alone mention, the twist removal of them. I decided to install glass blocks instead of glass block windows because of the weight differences. Handling each block installation is much less weight then dealing with the weight of an entire window at once. Thanks so much Jeff
Well that's interesting. I've never seen this done before and don't really have brick laying experience. I'd like to get a side window of the house done with something like this in Florida, i assume it helps reduce heat.
Nice job! I heard you say you got the products locally at HD in your area (I figure you're near Pittsburgh, PA). For anyone watching, glass blocks are one of those things that are very area-specific. In the Wash DC area up to Northeast PA I couldn't find anyone who stocks the white mortar for glass blocks. In fact, neither HD nor Lowe's allows me to order it. One of the builder supply places I talked with said I could make the mortar from silica sand, white mortar and some liquid bonding polymer -- but that would have cost me about $60 bucks for my one-window project and I would have a bunch leftover. Soooo, I actually ordered a 50lb bag of glass block mortar from Menards, for $40 shipped to my home.
Great video, thanks!! Just getting started thinking about replacing a 48"x60" bathroom sliding window above a jetted tub with glass blocks as I remodel/replace the never-used tub with a nice walk-in shower. (Definitely do NOT want shower spray sitting in the window channel and finding a way into the framing below!) A few questions after watching. For measuring/spacing, it looks like maybe 1/2" on all 4 sides and 1/8-1/4"" between tiles??? And reading other comments below, why shouldn't they be placed next to standard window wood framing?? if not, what goes between the 2x4 window frame and mortar?
@@jeffb1886 thanks for watching! You got the spacing right. Should be under 1 inch on the sides, and I believe the spacers I used were 1/4”. You can put them in a wood frame, just be sure to use a lot of brick ties as the mortar won’t bond to the wood. Then just put the appropriate trim covering the wood.
I have 1 basement window I need to glass block in. I was going to use modified thinset for the simple reason that I have nearly a full bag of thinset and no glass mortar and I'd rather have no mortar at all than 2 nearly full bags I'd never use. Any opinions? I am in southern Ohio.
Thanks for great video. I do have a question . I doing a basement window. Probably 3 rolls up. Any different than ur work. Do I need the stabilizer cable to go across?
Is there still a demand for installation of glass block windows? I’ve done glass block windows inside my home in two places to reflect light throughout home. Thinking of doing it as business startup. I did a glass block window in our master bath interior closet wall so closet doesn’t feel so dark. Did another in bathroom interior wall to reflect light from a nearby window. Look cool during sunrise. Reflects throughout upstairs room. Wish I could show pictures. I did both over ten years ago. Still love glass block! How does one charge for glass block installation?
Love this video!! Never laid block or brick, but mama wants a glass block bathroom window. What is the name of the long metal thing you put over the 3rd row? I caught the Brick ties. And, can you ley these glass blocks on wood? Or nail something on top of the wood? Thanks, Terry
I recently had a brick layer block up a window in my kitchen. Anderson refused to install a new window because they could not guarantee it would be sturdy. I hired someone to block it up. They used cinderblock. Bad choice for a kitchen window. Not to mention it the mortor looks like it was done by a 3 yr old. I like it knocked out and replaced with a glass block window. I am in Philly. So, do I hire a window instalker or a brick layer? Your video is very well done. Great job on the window install.
Are we to assume that you came back and pointed and finished the blocks in the same way on the interior? I want to do this on a partition wall on a shower I'm building so both sides need to be finished. Thanks for posting this!
I have 2 acrylic(I think feels like plastic)clear wavy block bathroom windows. One window-middle bottom 4 cubes have cracks that I can feel inside and out that needs to repair. One suggested GE Premium window caulk another said they don’t think it would hold up but to use solar shield sealant to repair to cover it. Would appreciate your thoughts and thank you. Cold weather coming. No budget or time to anything major.
Hypothetically if someone wanted to reduce the amount of space for the blocks, you could replace two rolls of the glass block with brick or cinder blocks and then add the window blocks ?
I was thinking of installing a section of glass block into an exterior wall. The section would be about 15 feet tall (floor to near roof) and maybe five feet wide. Is there any reason that is a bad idea?
Hard to say without actually seeing it but sounds like there shouldn’t be any problems. I would definitely add a lot of brick ties to keep it from moving while building.
Hey Jeff, ive been watching/reading a few different peoples advice on glass block. I am wondering if there was a reason you did not use an expansion joint/foam between the glass and concrete? I live near Toronto so we have to deal with winter, wondered if this was something you had to deal with? Materials for this project are turning out very hars to find so i dont know if i can even go through with it
@@mackensimon been installing glass block here in Pittsburgh for about 15 years now. Never used an expansion joint, never had a problem. Pittsburgh has one of the most notorious freeze/thaw cycles in the country. Thanks for watching!
Hey, can you advise on the premade glassblock windows? I have the basic, 2 layer, with the small pullout window, but I am noticing that the bottom of the glass blocks are not siliconed in, like the top part. Is that a mistake on manufacturing? I bought from Home Depot. I am gonna call them, but wondered if you ever saw this on the prebuilt windows. I'm thinking that I could just silicone in between each one. I bought these 4 years ago, just now doing my project. Thanks for your video.
@@jeffdeshong I spoke with representative at H.D. He said it is purposefully made that way, so that if moisture gets into the glass, the water will have an escape route, and the mortar will wick it away. Here's what I think, they shouldn't count on the product failing, and build in 3 huge gaps between the bottom row of the 4 glass blocks. I'm putting silicone in those, plus placing a rubber wall track thingy around the entire thing, and putting an extra bead along where the plastic meets at the corners of the small pullout window, and removed the screen, siliconed those 4 edges, too. My window frame is solid steel, and I wasn't going to mortar, but just silicone it into place. The framing already had the metal edge around the top and sides, so it keeps the window from slipping forward. Well, cheers to DYI's, and thank you for responding. There was no way that I was tearing out that perfectly good, solid, metal framing. Thanks, again!
@@raymarshall2995 there is moisture in the air that will condense in there when it gets cold, and covering those gaps prevents it from escaping properly. Every window of all kinds has small gaps like that to let moisture out of the bottom.Dont cover manufacturer designed gaps.
@@ReticulatingSplines_ Does the moisture get into the blocks via the gaps between the blocks? The reason I ask is because if I were stacking and mortaring each block, row after row, , where would the water have room to escape? I had the preset made windows in the box for 4 years before I got around to getting them out. In a moisture secure environment, the thin, small bead of glue that was barely holding the outer, narrow edges together was already turning a yellowish brown, and it was pulling away from the corners of where it was barely secure. There are more gaps in between those blocks than a double-punched piece of swiss cheese! The ONLY places that there were any silicone of substance was in between the top 4 blocks (3 spaces), about 2 inches deep, and the blocks are 6" deep! There are 2 rows, and in between the 1-2 row, there was less than 2 inches between those, making the horizontal lines, before it met with the top of the window void 😳! With the amout of gaps in those suckers, and the deteriorating, dime width space of inferior silicone, that whole DANG thing is basically a strainer. Hell, no wonder they say it will collect water, and will need somewhere for it to run off to. That cheap screen insert they have screwed in over the window would hold out more water than those blocks. It's sorry manufacturing job, and there should be no reason for than silicone to be deteriorating inside of a box, that's inside of my house. Two rows of blocks ☆'☆'☆'☆: 4 same size ☆'*[ ]*'☆: 2 outside are like top, the inner blocks are smaller, where it meets up around/sandwiches in window. If I turn window upside down, looking between those bottom 4 windows, I can drop a paint stirrer stick all the way thru the bottom blocks, and into the gaps of the top blocks, total 8-9"! The silcone that holds the two rows together, 2" on the end of a 6" wide window. 12"×31" blocks with pullout window: The 3 vertical lines holding together 4, Double stacked, 12" vertical---has 2 inches of silcone, leaving 8 inches between top/bottom. The horizontal 4 blocks, including pullout window, is 31 across, and there's 2 inces on each end of that horizontal line, leaving 29" of open space between bottom 4 windows and the pullout window. That's just crap! The only thing that has a dime thick bead of silicone is on the front and back side laying on tops of windows. Those things are manufactured for failure from the get-go, so when they fail, sooner than later, it's another set of windows sold. Again, if I were laying each block, I would not be incorporating 80% of gaps, only mortaring the top/side edges 20%. I appreciate your response. I've made video of all the gaps, and what I've done to fix things. Build a product that doesn't contain 80% gaps, and you won't need to leave the holes for all the water to escape the doorways they left open.
You said the block was 8”. You laid the block on the outside of the block and i wanted to see what you did about the gap on the inside of the block since block is alot thicker. I have only saw a block 4 inch thick which means on the inside there is two inches exposed. What do you do to finish the block inside.
You can do whatever you like. If you’re finishing the inside of the room then you could add some type of trim. Since mine will be block when finished,the window will have a 4 inch shelf. The blocks are filled with concrete.
@@jeffdeshong Hey thanks for responding! My room's window is facing our neighbor's house and they are loud AF. I've been thinking of placing glass blocks instead though my only air ventilation is my AC.
Здравствуйте, Джефф. Вы приложили много усилий, похвально, но из-за того, что вы ,наверное, не знали как правильно укладывать блоки, вы нарушили технологию, как мне кажется. Например, у вас нет армирования и нет фиксации стеклоблоков к стене. Поэтому, мне конечный результат не нравится, Jeff. Удачи.
They are quite strong. He used ties imbedded in the mortar (though not enough IMHO), and stainless rebar every 3 courses (should be every other course IMHO). That window isn’t going anywhere.
I disagree. Pretty strong, but sure someone could make their way through it with a hammer. Thing is most criminals look at glass block and never even attempt entry through them, they choose a different path into a home. I did a glass block window bigger than this one on my own home a few years ago, and I used the stainless rebar ties this guy used every single course just to make sure it was as strong as possbible for security reasons. I used tap cons to secure the stainless rebar ties to the cmu. If if remember correctly the stainless rebar was a bit different design than this guy used and had fastening points built into it so I didn't need to use the "brick ties" he used in this video.
Your video work is as good as the installation! You nailed all the proper way to do this. Thanks for sharing, keep up the great work!
Thank you 👍🏻
Nice work, Jeff! I did this at a doctor's office to comply with HIPPA rules for separation of the waiting area to the check in area.
It's a time-consuming job and takes some time.
Yours looks great!
Thanks Mike! Definitely time consuming
What type of person/company would you hire to install this type of window? I recently had an old window blocked up with cinderblock. I am very unhappy with it. I would like to replace it with glass blocking. It is in my kitchen. It's too heavy of a job for me .
Great video Jeff. Many, if not all, other glass block videos left out useful information. In particular the metal supports at every third course, brick ties, and using glass block mortar between glass blocks, and the type S mortar for contact with rough opening. The spacers do come up in other videos, though, none showed, let alone mention, the twist removal of them.
I decided to install glass blocks instead of glass block windows because of the weight differences. Handling each block installation is much less weight then dealing with the weight of an entire window at once. Thanks so much Jeff
Thanks for watching. Happy to help!
Well that's interesting. I've never seen this done before and don't really have brick laying experience. I'd like to get a side window of the house done with something like this in Florida, i assume it helps reduce heat.
Nice job! I heard you say you got the products locally at HD in your area (I figure you're near Pittsburgh, PA). For anyone watching, glass blocks are one of those things that are very area-specific. In the Wash DC area up to Northeast PA I couldn't find anyone who stocks the white mortar for glass blocks. In fact, neither HD nor Lowe's allows me to order it. One of the builder supply places I talked with said I could make the mortar from silica sand, white mortar and some liquid bonding polymer -- but that would have cost me about $60 bucks for my one-window project and I would have a bunch leftover. Soooo, I actually ordered a 50lb bag of glass block mortar from Menards, for $40 shipped to my home.
Several Lowes near Doylestown have the glass block mortar. It’s really best you use it. It sticks to anything.
IM AN ARCHITECT AND I AM AMAZED!!
Which metal should be used as support for rust proof please suggest
Thanks for posting. Got a great deal on on around 100 of these. Gonna go to town like I know what I'm doing!
-youtube Certified Mason.
Good job❤
Good job bro a rubber float would be easy next time for filling in the joints them use the sponge to clean up
Whats a rubber float? Layman here. Thanks
@@buddy999100little late to the party here. But rubber float used for grouting tile is what I assume he’s referencing.
Really great work and great video Jeff. The glass block looks fantastic. I'm looking to do something similar in an old basement doorway
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks!! Just getting started thinking about replacing a 48"x60" bathroom sliding window above a jetted tub with glass blocks as I remodel/replace the never-used tub with a nice walk-in shower. (Definitely do NOT want shower spray sitting in the window channel and finding a way into the framing below!) A few questions after watching. For measuring/spacing, it looks like maybe 1/2" on all 4 sides and 1/8-1/4"" between tiles??? And reading other comments below, why shouldn't they be placed next to standard window wood framing?? if not, what goes between the 2x4 window frame and mortar?
@@jeffb1886 thanks for watching! You got the spacing right. Should be under 1 inch on the sides, and I believe the spacers I used were 1/4”. You can put them in a wood frame, just be sure to use a lot of brick ties as the mortar won’t bond to the wood. Then just put the appropriate trim covering the wood.
Enjoyed this video. Just about to attempt a 7x5 block stand alone floor to wall for outdoor shower.
Big help this video
Thank You. Very informative. 👍
I have 1 basement window I need to glass block in. I was going to use modified thinset for the simple reason that I have nearly a full bag of thinset and no glass mortar and I'd rather have no mortar at all than 2 nearly full bags I'd never use. Any opinions? I am in southern Ohio.
It should be fine.
nice job very well explained
Thank you, this is super helpful and it gives me hope to get it done one day
Nice job! Looks great!
Thanks for great video. I do have a question . I doing a basement window. Probably 3 rolls up. Any different than ur work. Do I need the stabilizer cable to go across?
Should be pretty much the same. If it’s only 3 you dont really need the stabilizer
Nice clean work brother
Thank you
Is there still a demand for installation of glass block windows? I’ve done glass block windows inside my home in two places to reflect light throughout home. Thinking of doing it as business startup. I did a glass block window in our master bath interior closet wall so closet doesn’t feel so dark. Did another in bathroom interior wall to reflect light from a nearby window. Look cool during sunrise. Reflects throughout upstairs room. Wish I could show pictures. I did both over ten years ago. Still love glass block!
How does one charge for glass block installation?
I only install pre made glass block windows for customers. I charge a flat rate
Really enjoying your video's!
Love this video!! Never laid block or brick, but mama wants a glass block bathroom window.
What is the name of the long metal thing you put over the 3rd row? I caught the Brick ties.
And, can you ley these glass blocks on wood? Or nail something on top of the wood?
Thanks,
Terry
That metal thing is just a glass block reinforcer. I wouldn’t lay them on wood.
I recently had a brick layer block up a window in my kitchen. Anderson refused to install a new window because they could not guarantee it would be sturdy. I hired someone to block it up. They used cinderblock. Bad choice for a kitchen window. Not to mention it the mortor looks like it was done by a 3 yr old. I like it knocked out and replaced with a glass block window. I am in Philly. So, do I hire a window instalker or a brick layer?
Your video is very well done. Great job on the window install.
Are we to assume that you came back and pointed and finished the blocks in the same way on the interior? I want to do this on a partition wall on a shower I'm building so both sides need to be finished. Thanks for posting this!
Yup finished the same way on both sides. Thanks for watching!
I have 2 acrylic(I think feels like plastic)clear wavy block bathroom windows. One window-middle bottom 4 cubes have cracks that I can feel inside and out that needs to repair. One suggested GE Premium window caulk another said they don’t think it would hold up but to use solar shield sealant to repair to cover it. Would appreciate your thoughts and thank you. Cold weather coming. No budget or time to anything major.
If it’s only temporary, some clear caulk should hold up for the winter.
Hypothetically if someone wanted to reduce the amount of space for the blocks, you could replace two rolls of the glass block with brick or cinder blocks and then add the window blocks ?
Depends on how many brick or block you use, they weigh a lot more than glass block.
I was thinking of installing a section of glass block into an exterior wall. The section would be about 15 feet tall (floor to near roof) and maybe five feet wide. Is there any reason that is a bad idea?
Hard to say without actually seeing it but sounds like there shouldn’t be any problems. I would definitely add a lot of brick ties to keep it from moving while building.
Hey Jeff, ive been watching/reading a few different peoples advice on glass block. I am wondering if there was a reason you did not use an expansion joint/foam between the glass and concrete? I live near Toronto so we have to deal with winter, wondered if this was something you had to deal with? Materials for this project are turning out very hars to find so i dont know if i can even go through with it
@@mackensimon been installing glass block here in Pittsburgh for about 15 years now. Never used an expansion joint, never had a problem. Pittsburgh has one of the most notorious freeze/thaw cycles in the country. Thanks for watching!
Hey, can you advise on the premade glassblock windows? I have the basic, 2 layer, with the small pullout window, but I am noticing that the bottom of the glass blocks are not siliconed in, like the top part. Is that a mistake on manufacturing? I bought from Home Depot. I am gonna call them, but wondered if you ever saw this on the prebuilt windows. I'm thinking that I could just silicone in between each one. I bought these 4 years ago, just now doing my project. Thanks for your video.
Hard to say without seeing for myself. But yeah I would just add some silicone
@@jeffdeshong I spoke with representative at H.D. He said it is purposefully made that way, so that if moisture gets into the glass, the water will have an escape route, and the mortar will wick it away. Here's what I think, they shouldn't count on the product failing, and build in 3 huge gaps between the bottom row of the 4 glass blocks. I'm putting silicone in those, plus placing a rubber wall track thingy around the entire thing, and putting an extra bead along where the plastic meets at the corners of the small pullout window, and removed the screen, siliconed those 4 edges, too. My window frame is solid steel, and I wasn't going to mortar, but just silicone it into place. The framing already had the metal edge around the top and sides, so it keeps the window from slipping forward.
Well, cheers to DYI's, and thank you for responding. There was no way that I was tearing out that perfectly good, solid, metal framing. Thanks, again!
@@raymarshall2995 there is moisture in the air that will condense in there when it gets cold, and covering those gaps prevents it from escaping properly. Every window of all kinds has small gaps like that to let moisture out of the bottom.Dont cover manufacturer designed gaps.
@@ReticulatingSplines_ Does the moisture get into the blocks via the gaps between the blocks? The reason I ask is because if I were stacking and mortaring each block, row after row, , where would the water have room to escape? I had the preset made windows in the box for 4 years before I got around to getting them out. In a moisture secure environment, the thin, small bead of glue that was barely holding the outer, narrow edges together was already turning a yellowish brown, and it was pulling away from the corners of where it was barely secure. There are more gaps in between those blocks than a double-punched piece of swiss cheese! The ONLY places that there were any silicone of substance was in between the top 4 blocks (3 spaces), about 2 inches deep, and the blocks are 6" deep! There are 2 rows, and in between the 1-2 row, there was less than 2 inches between those, making the horizontal lines, before it met with the top of the window void 😳! With the amout of gaps in those suckers, and the deteriorating, dime width space of inferior silicone, that whole DANG thing is basically a strainer. Hell, no wonder they say it will collect water, and will need somewhere for it to run off to. That cheap screen insert they have screwed in over the window would hold out more water than those blocks. It's sorry manufacturing job, and there should be no reason for than silicone to be deteriorating inside of a box, that's inside of my house.
Two rows of blocks
☆'☆'☆'☆: 4 same size
☆'*[ ]*'☆: 2 outside are like top, the inner blocks are smaller, where it meets up around/sandwiches in window.
If I turn window upside down, looking between those bottom 4 windows, I can drop a paint stirrer stick all the way thru the bottom blocks, and into the gaps of the top blocks, total 8-9"! The silcone that holds the two rows together, 2" on the end of a 6" wide window.
12"×31" blocks with pullout window:
The 3 vertical lines holding together 4,
Double stacked, 12" vertical---has 2 inches of silcone, leaving 8 inches between top/bottom. The horizontal 4 blocks, including pullout window, is 31 across, and there's 2 inces on each end of that horizontal line, leaving 29" of open space between bottom 4 windows and the pullout window. That's just crap! The only thing that has a dime thick bead of silicone is on the front and back side laying on tops of windows.
Those things are manufactured for failure from the get-go, so when they fail, sooner than later, it's another set of windows sold.
Again, if I were laying each block, I would not be incorporating 80% of gaps, only mortaring the top/side edges 20%.
I appreciate your response. I've made video of all the gaps, and what I've done to fix things. Build a product that doesn't contain 80% gaps, and you won't need to leave the holes for all the water to escape the doorways they left open.
Thanks man you’re a lifesaver
You said the block was 8”. You laid the block on the outside of the block and i wanted to see what you did about the gap on the inside of the block since block is alot thicker. I have only saw a block 4 inch thick which means on the inside there is two inches exposed. What do you do to finish the block inside.
You can do whatever you like. If you’re finishing the inside of the room then you could add some type of trim. Since mine will be block when finished,the window will have a 4 inch shelf. The blocks are filled with concrete.
, im going to try this . thank you
Nice 👍
Any issue regarding water leak due to heavy rain from outside?
No
Do glass blocks really help with soundproofing?
Compared to regular windows? I would say yes
@@jeffdeshong Hey thanks for responding! My room's window is facing our neighbor's house and they are loud AF. I've been thinking of placing glass blocks instead though my only air ventilation is my AC.
@@libbyrose8541 you could always add a glass block vent. They have a couple different sizes. Should still help with the noise.
Thank you! @@jeffdeshong
How did you handle the space above the window?
Lintel with 4 inch block
ua-cam.com/video/pTLNodkyCKE/v-deo.htmlsi=DUPoXMG-GB1MbOMi
@@jeffdeshong Ok. Thank you. You did a wonderful job on that window.
@@juanitawatson596 appreciate it 👍🏻
Good job
Not setting 1st layer on a track system? Why not?
Nice
good job
Yo nice job bruh
Add sand to the type S?
Yes ratio is 2:1. 2 sand to 1 mortar
Здравствуйте, Джефф.
Вы приложили много усилий, похвально, но из-за того, что вы ,наверное, не знали как правильно укладывать блоки, вы нарушили технологию, как мне кажется. Например, у вас нет армирования и нет фиксации стеклоблоков к стене. Поэтому, мне конечный результат не нравится, Jeff. Удачи.
As a tile guy, that mortar was consecutively mixed wrong.... lol😅
Looks good though. What are you doing to cap it off?
What about the other side?
@@misodinamosa what about it lol?
GD look
Thing is with these is someone can kick there way into the garage, there not very strong.
Kinda like any window?
They are quite strong. He used ties imbedded in the mortar (though not enough IMHO), and stainless rebar every 3 courses (should be every other course IMHO). That window isn’t going anywhere.
I disagree. Pretty strong, but sure someone could make their way through it with a hammer. Thing is most criminals look at glass block and never even attempt entry through them, they choose a different path into a home. I did a glass block window bigger than this one on my own home a few years ago, and I used the stainless rebar ties this guy used every single course just to make sure it was as strong as possbible for security reasons. I used tap cons to secure the stainless rebar ties to the cmu. If if remember correctly the stainless rebar was a bit different design than this guy used and had fastening points built into it so I didn't need to use the "brick ties" he used in this video.
@@tylerhall6455 Only strong when rebar is used.
I think glass blocks are sexy