Great video! I recently bought an 18" home built ancient saw for $250. Actually all that is redeemable is the new motor and the blade. The basin is of rusted sheet metal. I would like to follow the design that you have presented. I like the slanted bottom and the reduced channel for the saw. I can do that I think. I would like to mirror your design for the drive, and the shut off switch. Good luck to me. I need to trim the length of my vice about 7". I'm hoping that I find the right bearing setup for carriage. I'm taking my time and asking other builders. I'm very happy to have found your video. If you have created a list of materials and a blueprint. please let us know.
Hello Dalton, I'm sorry I don't have any drawings I just made sketches as I go I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun building your saw. Thanks again for watching my videos!
The best guidance I've seen so far. I've watched your video 3 times so far and expect to be a frequent visitor. Your saw is really a nice model for other builders.@@ElieGhanimeEG
That was an excellent video sir thank you I recently bought a 14 inch lortone spartan drop saw and I am needing a clamp system like the ones you made, they are very well designed. 😆
Jim B you're watching the old channel 😄 I didn't upload this video to the new channel, anyway I used 1/16" sheet metal it's about 14 gauge, I had the tank shaped and then welded the 2 ends, I did a leak test using water, all the weld was good then I added automotive sealer over the weld, the cover also welded however, if I build another one I would make it square instead of rounded front.
Enjoyed your video, something I need to know befor building a saw is, what surface speed or RPM is needed to keep the blade happy, what HP is needed for a 20 inch blade. what should the feed rate be?. Thank You.
Nice informative video. Did you salvage a Covington or buy a few of their replacement parts? I bought a Covington arbor which I could not build for what they charged...or build something I would trust. I just know that I may need to buy other parts, especially the electrical and just wonder if there is a good source.
Thanks Eg Jewels for the video very informative. I have a Highland Park Combo lapidary unit model B-10 built probably late 60's early 70's. It has 10" saw with shaft and moter to the right of the blade and a sanding drum with another moter to right of the drum do your rules about which way to turn bolts to remove blade and drum apply to this model if anyone has the Highland Park B-10 would much appreciate Thanks
Hi Dennis, the rules always apply to all motors, if the motor on the right side of the blade or anything turning that you apply pressure on, the nut used has to be left-handed, the same applies for motor on the left side of the turning blade or grinding wheel, the nut must be right-handed, therefore, it dosn't matter what kind of machine you have or how old it is, the rules apply to all. Thanks for asking and I hope you enjoy all my videos. Elie Ghanime
Hell Sir, can you please make a video on how not to waste rough gems when cutting? I have an expensive piece of rough and don't want to waste it unnecessarily.
Hello Rustam, the limit switch is for safety reasons, if the vise carriage dosen't shutoff the motor by pulling the chain shutting off the front switch and it keeps moving towards the back unattended, it could create a lot of damage, the limit switch set at the back it will be activated by the vise carriage pushing the limit switch shutting off the electric power.
Great video! I recently bought an 18" home built ancient saw for $250. Actually all that is redeemable is the new motor and the blade. The basin is of rusted sheet metal. I would like to follow the design that you have presented. I like the slanted bottom and the reduced channel for the saw. I can do that I think. I would like to mirror your design for the drive, and the shut off switch. Good luck to me. I need to trim the length of my vice about 7". I'm hoping that I find the right bearing setup for carriage. I'm taking my time and asking other builders. I'm very happy to have found your video. If you have created a list of materials and a blueprint. please let us know.
Hello Dalton, I'm sorry I don't have any drawings I just made sketches as I go I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun building your saw. Thanks again for watching my videos!
The best guidance I've seen so far. I've watched your video 3 times so far and expect to be a frequent visitor. Your saw is really a nice model for other builders.@@ElieGhanimeEG
That was an excellent video sir thank you
I recently bought a 14 inch lortone spartan drop saw and I am needing a clamp system like the ones you made, they are very well designed. 😆
What motor did you use for the feed system, pully size and thread size?
The motor is slow speed high torque 120 V 60 Htz, the pully is 2" at the motor and 4" at the drive shaft, the drive shaft is ½" fine thread.
What type of metal did you use to construct your saw? Also, what gauge did you use and what method of joining the metal together did you use?
Jim B you're watching the old channel 😄 I didn't upload this video to the new channel, anyway I used 1/16" sheet metal it's about 14 gauge, I had the tank shaped and then welded the 2 ends, I did a leak test using water, all the weld was good then I added automotive sealer over the weld, the cover also welded however, if I build another one I would make it square instead of rounded front.
Enjoyed your video, something I need to know befor building a saw is, what surface speed or RPM is needed to keep the blade happy, what HP is needed for
a 20 inch blade. what should the feed rate be?. Thank You.
Very helpful video; thanks. Do you have actual plans for building this saw?
Nice informative video. Did you salvage a Covington or buy a few of their replacement parts? I bought a Covington arbor which I could not build for what they charged...or build something I would trust. I just know that I may need to buy other parts, especially the electrical and just wonder if there is a good source.
What plans did you use to make the saw, or did you buy it already made?
What brand is your 18” saw?
Hello Amanda, I’m using a MK 301
And thank you for watching my videos!!
Thanks Eg Jewels for the video very informative. I have a Highland Park Combo lapidary unit
model B-10 built probably late 60's early 70's. It has 10" saw with shaft and moter to the right of the blade and a sanding drum with another moter to right of the drum do your rules about which way to turn bolts to remove blade and drum apply to this model if anyone has the Highland Park B-10 would much appreciate Thanks
Hi Dennis, the rules always apply to all motors, if the motor on the right side of the blade or anything turning that you apply pressure on, the nut used has to be left-handed, the same applies for motor on the left side of the turning blade or grinding wheel, the nut must be right-handed, therefore, it dosn't matter what kind of machine you have or how old it is, the rules apply to all.
Thanks for asking and I hope you enjoy all my videos.
Elie Ghanime
Very good
Hell Sir, can you please make a video on how not to waste rough gems when cutting? I have an expensive piece of rough and don't want to waste it unnecessarily.
Hi Benji, you have to be more specific, what kind of rough you're talking about? What size saw are you using? Too many variables!!!
Torque is opposite rotation
Torque is a rotational force or turning effect. It represents the capability of a force to produce change in the rotational motion of the body.
Nice shirt
Thanks, by the way you’re watching my old UA-cam channel, here’s the new link.
ua-cam.com/channels/3zSF2wGBv1pzuUYksU8d3w.html
Limit switch all about?!
Hello Rustam, the limit switch is for safety reasons, if the vise carriage dosen't shutoff the motor by pulling the chain shutting off the front switch and it keeps moving towards the back unattended, it could create a lot of damage, the limit switch set at the back it will be activated by the vise carriage pushing the limit switch shutting off the electric power.