Good vid, Ed. Topic of ballast comes up a lot on tractor forums, with common recommendations being a counter weight on the 3 pt hitch and loaded tires, but that's not always the ideal option depending on application. For instance, counter balance is what you need for lifting stuff with the loader to relieve stress on the front axle, but it becomes counter productive when plowing (and especially snow pushing) because you're lightening the weight over the front tires, and then start losing steering when the plow or pusher box starts riding up with the snow buildup on it.
@@Redneck_Ed I love youtube because of stuff like this, eg, learn something in a vid, read stuff in the comments, bounce ideas of each other...youtube university!
@@tlm3574 Since I haven't weighted just the wheels or checked, I'm just not sure what is inside of mine. In the video, I assume 8lbs at 10 gallons per tire. Beet juice is listed at 10.7 or up to 11 lbs and is best to maximize weight density, but I don't agree that antifreeze is too light. Lots of people fill with washer fluid or RV antifreeze and if you do that plus have rear ballast, it's a workable combination. One issue with RV antifreeze is that at -8 in my freezer I did get it to solidify some. It doesn't expand and cause issues, but having a solid chunk of anything inside the tire isn't good. My climate here isn't cold enough though to worry about that hard of a freeze. Canada...probably a different story.
@@Redneck_Ed if you are curious(I am) you can park with valve stem below top and let a little fluid out. If its dark and smelly its beet juice. If it's salty its calcium chloride, if its bluish its windshield washer, and if its yellow anti freeze. Or ask the dealer. He probly puts the same stuff in all his tires. Mite be useful to know for weight purposes and in case you have a leak you can protect your pets and livestock. More vidoes. Yours are interesting.
Good video Ed… I wasn’t tracking the specific total weight spec on the GC series being that low. I have a GC1725M and this made me realize I probably have exceed the total weight spec nearly every time I’ve used the tractor at some point… tractor has about 200 hrs on it total so far! I have a ~625 lb home made concrete ballast box and the same 315 lb box blade as you, and have spent a lot of time moving heavy top soil, tree debris, and logs. These little subcompacts are almost useless without ballast (2” wheel spacers help with stability too), and honestly it’s not safe using the loader for normal loads without at least the 315 lb box blade (I normally use the 625 lb ballast box for any real work). Tractor seems to handle it without issue, definitely a strong machine for it’s size. I believe Tim at TT w/Tim consistently runs his 1025R at over 3000lbs if I remember correctly. Anyway, the GC is primarily used for lighter property maintenance now anyway sine I’ve acquired a larger 35 hp tractor with about double the lifting capacity for the heavier loads now.
I'm sure that we're all exceeding those specs at times. The spec number for total weight seems low, and the machines can clearly handle more. As you mentioned, you just can't work safely without some ballast weight. If that puts you over the total weight spec at times, then so be it.
Good vid, Ed. Topic of ballast comes up a lot on tractor forums, with common recommendations being a counter weight on the 3 pt hitch and loaded tires, but that's not always the ideal option depending on application. For instance, counter balance is what you need for lifting stuff with the loader to relieve stress on the front axle, but it becomes counter productive when plowing (and especially snow pushing) because you're lightening the weight over the front tires, and then start losing steering when the plow or pusher box starts riding up with the snow buildup on it.
I'm so glad you mentioned that. I am going to pin this comment to the top. The GC definitely needs that front end weight when plowing.
@@Redneck_Ed I love youtube because of stuff like this, eg, learn something in a vid, read stuff in the comments, bounce ideas of each other...youtube university!
Great information.
I once wanted to quickly move a pallet of material without anything on the 3point and found I could barely steer.
That's a great point. Loading down that front end really puts a strain on the power steering. I've been in that situation before too.
What did you use to ballast the rear tires?
They came with liquid ballast from the dealer. I'm honestly not sure what they used.
@@Redneck_Ed some ballast is 11 lbs and some 8. Anti freeze is too light . beet juice is best.
@@tlm3574 Since I haven't weighted just the wheels or checked, I'm just not sure what is inside of mine. In the video, I assume 8lbs at 10 gallons per tire. Beet juice is listed at 10.7 or up to 11 lbs and is best to maximize weight density, but I don't agree that antifreeze is too light. Lots of people fill with washer fluid or RV antifreeze and if you do that plus have rear ballast, it's a workable combination. One issue with RV antifreeze is that at -8 in my freezer I did get it to solidify some. It doesn't expand and cause issues, but having a solid chunk of anything inside the tire isn't good. My climate here isn't cold enough though to worry about that hard of a freeze. Canada...probably a different story.
@@Redneck_Ed if you are curious(I am) you can park with valve stem below top and let a little fluid out. If its dark and smelly its beet juice. If it's salty its calcium chloride, if its bluish its windshield washer, and if its yellow anti freeze. Or ask the dealer. He probly puts the same stuff in all his tires. Mite be useful to know for weight purposes and in case you have a leak you can protect your pets and livestock. More vidoes. Yours are interesting.
Anothe great video and well explainned Ed . have a great day
Good video Ed… I wasn’t tracking the specific total weight spec on the GC series being that low. I have a GC1725M and this made me realize I probably have exceed the total weight spec nearly every time I’ve used the tractor at some point… tractor has about 200 hrs on it total so far! I have a ~625 lb home made concrete ballast box and the same 315 lb box blade as you, and have spent a lot of time moving heavy top soil, tree debris, and logs. These little subcompacts are almost useless without ballast (2” wheel spacers help with stability too), and honestly it’s not safe using the loader for normal loads without at least the 315 lb box blade (I normally use the 625 lb ballast box for any real work). Tractor seems to handle it without issue, definitely a strong machine for it’s size. I believe Tim at TT w/Tim consistently runs his 1025R at over 3000lbs if I remember correctly. Anyway, the GC is primarily used for lighter property maintenance now anyway sine I’ve acquired a larger 35 hp tractor with about double the lifting capacity for the heavier loads now.
I'm sure that we're all exceeding those specs at times. The spec number for total weight seems low, and the machines can clearly handle more. As you mentioned, you just can't work safely without some ballast weight. If that puts you over the total weight spec at times, then so be it.
Great info, Ed! That's a lot of work. Today is Saturday. I should have watched this on a weekday. I am a statistician by trade, except on weekends! 😅
Out of respect for such a loyal viewer, I'll wait to publish my next numbers video on a weekday, lol!
@@Redneck_Ed LOL
Most 3pt implements made for this size tractor are over 400#
Box blades, landscape rakes and rear blades are well under. Land planes, mowers, and tillers are probably all over.