AKAI MPC 60 Restoration Part 2
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- Fianally, part II of the restoration of my MPC 60!
Sorry this took me so long to get to. Hope you are all well and enjoy the clip :D
/ 100thingsido
100smusic.bandcamp.com/
lander2.bandcamp.com/
Great job!
This is such a beautiful instrument, brings in class to any studio!
Indeed, Awesome to use and really adds a nice flavor to any sample :D
Finding this small niche channel with your wonderful enthusiasm powering the content seems like a jackpot! Hoping the YT algorithm is favorable to you in the future.
Thankyou for the very kind words :D
Just bought this machine and fell in love with it. A masterpiece in music history !
Hope you love it as much as I do! The ported MPC3000 OS is worth trying out for it:D
It's wild seeing the Oberheim OB-Mx sitting there; I don't seem to see them in studio shots that often. (I'm currently fighting with the LCD in mine).
I have a few videos on the OB-Mx but yeh I always feel like I do too many OB-Mx videos so try and keep the quantity under control :D
@@100ThingsIDo Not many other people are doing OB-Mx videos, and it's a highly misunderstood synth, so more are always welcome. :)
@@Lantertronics I'll see what I can do soon! :D
Whenever I get access to some old EEPROMs in devices I get my programmer out, read them out and backup the data. I had a Linn Drum and a Memorymoog once, where some bits flipped back to high so the software would crash in the Memorymoog and the drumsound would click in the Linn Drum. Saved me twice.
Yeh, I have backups of the Rom's in most of my gear! EPROM readers are so cheap these days but some older UV EPROMS are now starting to become a lot harder to souce! :D
Perfect video ❤ I tried replacing the old original display with a new one. The old original display worked. Since I got the new display, I only see a blue backlight. Do you perhaps know why that is❓
Unfortunatly it could be a lot of things, Contrast being not set correctly on an LCD can cause it to look like its not working, check the cables, and look at it from various angles to see if you can see even a slight bit of the display. Hope this helps :D
It looks perfect to me. Excellent job.
Thanks Gaita :D It's for sure very nice to have in the studio :D
Brilliant work!!!
Thanks man! I should of checked the comments before sending you the email as you have already watched it. I'll send you a longer email very soon :D
Wow looks brilliant! Nicely edited also
Thanks man! It took a few attempts to get it all to work :D
So did you paint the play stop buttons or just buy a new set? Good to know that retrobriting doesn’t fade the lettering on them.
I used water slide decals printed on a laser printer then I covered the print with a varnish to make it last longer. 1 year later they are still going strong :D Easy to re-do if they wear out and look so much better than stickers!
Excellent job, I realy loved this series. 👍🏼
(even if I'm not an "MPC boy", even in its time, I was more a "classic" sampler+atari then mac guy)
Thanks! :D It was potentially the biggest restoration project to date! Really happy with the results!
💕☔️👍🏻😎
❤️ :D
He got great skill ..!
haha! Thanks hyun-ho lee :D
What was the bit of soldering you did after replacing the backlight? I’m about to do the same to mine but didn’t think it required any soldering
That was just to solder down the backlight connectors to the display board. Mosttimes they need soldering sometimes not... Its pretty easy to do so if you do some practice first I'm sure you could solder it :D
Really enjoyed this video. You really hooked this one up. Thanks for posting. I just picked up a 60 that is quite beat up. Do you happen to have any links to what SCSI2SD parts are needed and where to purchase them? I’ve been having a hard time finding a compatible kit. In fact, having trouble sourcing a ton of parts that I will need.
I used a generic SCSI2SD adaptor and a 3dprinted shell for it. I purchased Jazzcats version of the SCSI interface & cables from eBay. I set up the SCSI2SD adaptor pretty much using the Auto setting. Hope this helps :D
@@100ThingsIDo Thanks for the response, but yeah the problem I’m having is finding anyone with SCSI2SD adapters in stock. I’ve found everything else but those adapters.
Nice one! I'm just waiting to get all tact switches to replace them in my 60 too. Great job!
Well woth changing every Tact switch. I find on anything that has dodgy or marginal ones it really adds stress to the session :D
@@100ThingsIDo yes Sir. 70 pieces ordered. 50 small ones and 20 big ones just in case to have a few spare ones. Will you try to refurbish letters on the big buttons? My STOP button isn't readable at all. I can get some stickers but I'm not sure if that's a good idea. I'm planing to send my top panel for respray. It will cost me appx €200 plus shipping cost. I think it's worty.
@@bizon33obroty I came up with a different way to do the buttons I think.. No sure how long it will last but holding up well so far.. drop me an email and I can let you know what I did and send you an image of the example :D
@@bizon33obroty Hello, I’m in the processing of refurbishing a beat to all hell MPC 60. Are you willing to share where you picked up the tact switches and what company repaints the top panels? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@bizon33obroty OK thank you!! I’m going to check it out now. Are the B3W-4000 switches a different size? I thought all 59 tact switches are the same size.
I have a 60ii, is it the same process to clean the floppy drive?
Pretty much, just go slow and take lots of pictures :D
What about de-yellowing the whole face plate? I just bought a 2000XL in the same shape. Most yellow I have ever seen.
You can try cleaning it first then cover the display with something to block UV (foil or something like that) and leaving the MPC out in the sun for a few hours for a few days (Don't let it get damp or wet of course). That can help most plastics (and some paints) return from deep yellowing :D
What happened to Peter?
So, is there a reason you haven't gone for Roger's OS v3.1? Also, how much work did you do on the pads?
Peter just didn't seen to work in any of the SO points this week so I decided to save him, Newt and the others for next time :D I went with the ported Vimana 3.15b OS more down to price than anything. There are a few bugs in it that might make me purchase Rogers 3.1 later (such as the Mixer not working). Pads were and are perfect so I did not have to change anything there!
How difficult was it to swap leather on that bolster?
I just purchased some self adhesive leather (I think its Plastic 'leather') from eBay, unscrewed the bolster and put the new leather right over the top. Worked like a charm :D
@@100ThingsIDo I see, thanks for your reply! I'm curious to know if anyone ever managed to get good results having replaced the original material... this might be something I will do soon
@@Hauteclaire16 Yeh, its bascially just plastic fabric on wood so as long as you go slow and cut to the correct size it should look awesome :D
@@100ThingsIDo Did you remove the old 'leather', or just put the new on top of the other? 🙂
@@djdue5654 Just put it over the top, the old leather was mostly OK but had a small nick in it so I decided to leave it in place for originality if I wanted to go back to it :D
What repair ? Except cleaning
Great job!
Thanks, and thanks for checking the video :D