Absolutely the best video out there for the left hand rear brake mod! Thank you for creating it. It really is a game changer for low speed maneuvers to help moderate the DCT since we don't have a clutch to feather (and no, I don't miss it). I was able to get mine done in a relatively short period of time once I got all the parts. Sourcing the master cylinder and the brake lever was really time consuming. I ended up getting a used master cylinder from E-bay and it was in surprisingly good condition. I also had a really good customer service experience with the Sic Shop. Super helpful and accommodating. I ended up using their "custom" 56 inch brake line with a 70 degree bend on the master cylinder end and a straight on the other. Like you said, it could have been 54 inches. I spent some time getting the teardrop installed since the o-ring is very firm and resists compression. I ended up putting the o-ring on the teardrop and then a used a little brake fluid to help lubricate it. After that, it was just patience and gentle persuasion. Once everything was torqued to specs it has not leaked a drop. Lastly, the clutch perch gave me a hassle, so I cut off the mounting "ears" and then used the center section as normal while adding the ears back in as spacers. By doing this I only needed to add a 1/4 W x 1/2 L x 1/8 inch thick piece of aluminum bar as a spacer to make the parking brake rock solid. I used BadAssEngineering's method for bleeding the brakes and it worked like a charm. No muss, no fuss. Just take your time. Here's the link for anyone that wants to give it a try. ua-cam.com/video/Vh9vpVejl1E/v-deo.html
This is an AWESOME response/comment! I'm sure you've helped even more people with it. My method worked/works very well but I'm 100% certain there are ways to improve upon it.
I don't honestly know. What I do know, though, is that I prefer hydraulic brakes and don't mind spending more $ to end up with something I prefer. One thing I may change is to completely eliminate the rear master cylinder and run a line straight from the handlebar-mounted master to the rear caliper...not sure yet.
No problem at all...just don't know how many more AT vids I'll post (involving installations, anyway) as it's essentially complete and I've just been riding it...maybe some rides in the Colorado mountains, when I visit the area...but...I recently picked up a '23 XR650L for the more, "hard core" mountain terrain out west. Thought/hoped people would find this video to be helpful...
Great video! Best setup I’ve seen yet. I have the Rekluse LHRB on my dirt bike and there is feedback when trying to use both pedal and lever. I like what you’ve done here!
Great video thanks, interesting master cylinder, I’d guess other switch contacts are for cancelling cruise, so you probably could use those if needed. I’ve done this on mine, couple of other notes, especially for UK. Using the rear brake lever with this set up does not give ‘feedback’ on the handlebar lever, the handle bar lever becomes the master cylinder reservoir for the whole operation. You can’t use both handle bar lever and foot lever together at the same time though. The tear drop unit is called a brake junction, Race Torx sell this in EU and UK. The 20* bend at the bottom, turn it around so the hose angle toward the master not away from. It’s a really worthwhile modification.
Thank you ;) . I don't actually know if that's true (other contacts being for c/c) but only because the Honda Silverwing 600 didn't have factory cruise (as far as I know...am I wrong about this?). What I meant by the handlebar lever vs foot brake pedal is that, when you depress one or the other (while the other one is already in a position of use), that action forces the one that is currently in a position of use to move in an opposing direction...at least, it did with my bike (until I removed the brake pedal from the equation, that is). You are absolutely correct in saying you can't use them together at the same time.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 Just FYI.......I wired my normally open contact of my left hand brake, in parallel with my front brake NO contact, it will activate the rear brake and also cancel cruise control.
Simply Brilliant innovation. I think due to the DCT this is almost necessary as DCT has both brake biases and it is better controlled with your right hand. I have the foot shifter too. I will eventually get to this. I will try to keep both the foot and the hand lever if I am able to figure this out. First things first , Barkbusters.
Thank you for the suggestion. Were it not for the fact that I really like the reposition of the stock e-brake assembly, as it is, I'd certainly look into this.
Any nay-sayers about DCT should really take more time to get used to it. It is a remarkable feature and, if you can preload the transmission without having to use your right foot...all the better.
Awesome video. Thank you so much for posting. For me is between the Transalp or the Africa twin dtc. I like your setup a lot but the weight scares me a bit.
Thank you very much...I really hope it is helpful. At the end of the day, it's just the method I preferred but I think it turned out well, all things considered.
Unfortunately, I don't know...but...I can measure it and post the answer here. I have since cut the extra off and it's not visible any longer. Rock solid so I'll leave it like that.
Great video thanks, Just one question, i ordered the same teardrop installed it making sure to put the O-ring first, put back the philip screw, but i get fluid leak when i apply pressure on the break, it’s like the teardrop goes backwards. Any idea how i can fix it ?
I went with the NC750D lever because another person posted a less descriptive conversion video (on UA-cam) and had used it. Seemed like a perfect match so I went with it...no other reason.
Excellent video! I love the DCT AS but, miss the clutch for those slow speed maneuvers where power finesse is needed. I have a left hand rear brake on my electric bike and quickly learned that it is the bomb when working in tight spaces. I have looked at a lot of these mod videos and all lacked the detail that yours provided. The parts list was a great add-on. I ended up buying a "used" master cylinder because no one had new units in stock anywhere in the world! Apparently your video caused a supply chain problem. 😄
Great video, thanks for sharing! Did you have any problems with the parking brake lever assembly hitting the fairing or the windscreen when the handlebar is fully locked to the right? I have the 2019 model and the burkbuster alone is almost hitting the windscreen (5mm gap) when fully locked to the right. It is because I installed 20mm raisers and tilt the handlebar a bit forward.
Is your parking brake OEM? I have a 2015 Honda CTX700N DCT and it would be nice for the controls to match what is on my 2021 Yamaha Zuma 125 scooter. I do not mind the right foot rear brake pedal on the Honda, but it would be trick if that were a redundant accelerator control… great info in your video!
What a great video. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but was apprehensive about attempting this job. After watching your video, you've made me feel much more comfortable about doing it myself. And kudos on the parts list. The guy who helps me at partzilla probably will appreciate it more than me. I've had trouble finding tank protectors for my 2022 ATAS dct. The ones you have look really good. Can I ask who makes those? Thanks for your time and energy. You're good at what you do.
I'm sorry but I'm not sure I understand the question. Wish I could answer other than to say that I didn't add anything other than what is listed/described.
Once the bike has, "learned" it is there (which is a requirement, after installation), it is really rather remarkable. It doesn't operate quite like a standard shift lever but it is very comfortable and intuitive. I'm not sure a how-to video would help much, though, because installation is complete and I'd rather not completely uninstall it, just to reinstall it. There is a video currently on UA-cam that covers its installation quite well. In fact...I watched his video, first, and used it as a tutorial.
It is the low version and came with my bike, which I purchased with 800'ish miles. So far, I find it to be quite comfortable, HOWEVER, I have noticed that it tends to "force" me forward and I don't really like that (can be a squisher of things lol). It can also cause your reach to be shorter than you might like, depending on your height and arm length. What I DO like about it being the low version is that, at 6'3", I can SO easily flat foot that I may enjoy it very much off road. If I don't, then...well...the bike came with the stock 2-piece seat and I'll just give that a shot. Thanks very much for your comment and questions.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 I have a SARGENT seats based from Jacksonville, Florida. I have a 2022 AFT DCT. They dont have a mold for 2022 yet, so I have to drop off my OEM two piece seats, to have them work on. I love it, it does not move me forward when I ride. I also had it in low configuration, since I am 5'8", with 30 inches inseam.
Hi, great video. Did you have any trouble with the teardrop pushing out when the brake is operated? I have done the mod, but the brake is soft and when I look at the teardrop I can see the pressure pushing it out. Any thoughts?
No, I've actually experienced none of that. In fact, it's rock solid. I did, however, make a mistake at first in that I didn't have the o-ring seated fully inside the master so the system never bled properly and the teardrop began leaking minutes later. As soon as I seated the o-ring completely, everything bled perfectly, and quickly, and has been golden ever since.
I experience this on mine, even if I seated the o-ring properly. It happened twice already. The solution I did, I use JB weld on top of the tear drop to provide extra strength to hold the tear drop in place. It had been solid so far. No more pulling out. I also bought a spare rear brake assembly, just in case I wanted to return it to OEM.
Great video, my dude! I'm looking to do this very thing! Also, what rubber tank protector are you using? That looks very grippy and comfortable. Thanks for sharing! 🤘
Absolutely the best video out there for the left hand rear brake mod! Thank you for creating it. It really is a game changer for low speed maneuvers to help moderate the DCT since we don't have a clutch to feather (and no, I don't miss it). I was able to get mine done in a relatively short period of time once I got all the parts. Sourcing the master cylinder and the brake lever was really time consuming. I ended up getting a used master cylinder from E-bay and it was in surprisingly good condition. I also had a really good customer service experience with the Sic Shop. Super helpful and accommodating. I ended up using their "custom" 56 inch brake line with a 70 degree bend on the master cylinder end and a straight on the other. Like you said, it could have been 54 inches. I spent some time getting the teardrop installed since the o-ring is very firm and resists compression. I ended up putting the o-ring on the teardrop and then a used a little brake fluid to help lubricate it. After that, it was just patience and gentle persuasion. Once everything was torqued to specs it has not leaked a drop. Lastly, the clutch perch gave me a hassle, so I cut off the mounting "ears" and then used the center section as normal while adding the ears back in as spacers. By doing this I only needed to add a 1/4 W x 1/2 L x 1/8 inch thick piece of aluminum bar as a spacer to make the parking brake rock solid. I used BadAssEngineering's method for bleeding the brakes and it worked like a charm. No muss, no fuss. Just take your time. Here's the link for anyone that wants to give it a try.
ua-cam.com/video/Vh9vpVejl1E/v-deo.html
This is an AWESOME response/comment! I'm sure you've helped even more people with it. My method worked/works very well but I'm 100% certain there are ways to improve upon it.
First video where all information is provided nicely. Thank you so much for this.
You are very welcome. I think I could have done a better job but it'll do!
I never knew about this conversion, I liked it, congratulations.
I don't honestly know. What I do know, though, is that I prefer hydraulic brakes and don't mind spending more $ to end up with something I prefer. One thing I may change is to completely eliminate the rear master cylinder and run a line straight from the handlebar-mounted master to the rear caliper...not sure yet.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 You can, but then you lose the rear ABS.
@@wallacemjr True but I don't really like rear ABS, anyway.
i am searching the solution for months. so good.
I'm really glad this was useful for you ;) .
Thanks a lot for sharing. It is nice to have the same interest and idea. Subscribed. Looking forward for more videos.
No problem at all...just don't know how many more AT vids I'll post (involving installations, anyway) as it's essentially complete and I've just been riding it...maybe some rides in the Colorado mountains, when I visit the area...but...I recently picked up a '23 XR650L for the more, "hard core" mountain terrain out west. Thought/hoped people would find this video to be helpful...
Great video! Best setup I’ve seen yet. I have the Rekluse LHRB on my dirt bike and there is feedback when trying to use both pedal and lever. I like what you’ve done here!
Great video thanks, interesting master cylinder, I’d guess other switch contacts are for cancelling cruise, so you probably could use those if needed. I’ve done this on mine, couple of other notes, especially for UK.
Using the rear brake lever with this set up does not give ‘feedback’ on the handlebar lever, the handle bar lever becomes the master cylinder reservoir for the whole operation. You can’t use both handle bar lever and foot lever together at the same time though. The tear drop unit is called a brake junction, Race Torx sell this in EU and UK. The 20* bend at the bottom, turn it around so the hose angle toward the master not away from. It’s a really worthwhile modification.
Thank you ;) . I don't actually know if that's true (other contacts being for c/c) but only because the Honda Silverwing 600 didn't have factory cruise (as far as I know...am I wrong about this?). What I meant by the handlebar lever vs foot brake pedal is that, when you depress one or the other (while the other one is already in a position of use), that action forces the one that is currently in a position of use to move in an opposing direction...at least, it did with my bike (until I removed the brake pedal from the equation, that is). You are absolutely correct in saying you can't use them together at the same time.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 Just FYI.......I wired my normally open contact of my left hand brake, in parallel with my front brake NO contact, it will activate the rear brake and also cancel cruise control.
Simply Brilliant innovation. I think due to the DCT this is almost necessary as DCT has both brake biases and it is better controlled with your right hand. I have the foot shifter too. I will eventually get to this. I will try to keep both the foot and the hand lever if I am able to figure this out. First things first , Barkbusters.
Suggest for u for hand parking brake lever use from honda rebel 1100.
All master cylinder are the same from cbr 1000 or fireblade 900 mk1
Thank you for the suggestion. Were it not for the fact that I really like the reposition of the stock e-brake assembly, as it is, I'd certainly look into this.
500lb Mountain Bike with DCT...The Word is Awesome!!!
Any nay-sayers about DCT should really take more time to get used to it. It is a remarkable feature and, if you can preload the transmission without having to use your right foot...all the better.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 but the most important thing of motorcycling...... can you rev your engine in a tunnel with that dct/scooter thingy
@@funyun You can shift to neutral ;) .
I prefer a Rekluse auto clutch over the DCT setup, but love the left rear hand brake conversion, thank you!
Awesome video. Thank you so much for posting. For me is between the Transalp or the Africa twin dtc. I like your setup a lot but the weight scares me a bit.
Nice work man
Thank you very much...I really hope it is helpful. At the end of the day, it's just the method I preferred but I think it turned out well, all things considered.
Hi, what is diameter space that you put the Allen key in? Or what size of Allen key you use as spacer
Unfortunately, I don't know...but...I can measure it and post the answer here. I have since cut the extra off and it's not visible any longer. Rock solid so I'll leave it like that.
Great video thanks,
Just one question, i ordered the same teardrop installed it making sure to put the O-ring first, put back the philip screw, but i get fluid leak when i apply pressure on the break, it’s like the teardrop goes backwards.
Any idea how i can fix it ?
Finally a video with a part list! Much thanks. Any reason you chose a lever from the NC750D and not the Silverwing?
I went with the NC750D lever because another person posted a less descriptive conversion video (on UA-cam) and had used it. Seemed like a perfect match so I went with it...no other reason.
Hi grate video will be doing this soon . Can u tell me the part you used from the vt1100 as i cant find it anywhere
Excellent video! I love the DCT AS but, miss the clutch for those slow speed maneuvers where power finesse is needed. I have a left hand rear brake on my electric bike and quickly learned that it is the bomb when working in tight spaces. I have looked at a lot of these mod videos and all lacked the detail that yours provided. The parts list was a great add-on. I ended up buying a "used" master cylinder because no one had new units in stock anywhere in the world! Apparently your video caused a supply chain problem. 😄
REALLY appreciate the comments and I'm SO happy this video made things better/easier for you.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Did you have any problems with the parking brake lever assembly hitting the fairing or the windscreen when the handlebar is fully locked to the right?
I have the 2019 model and the burkbuster alone is almost hitting the windscreen (5mm gap) when fully locked to the right. It is because I installed 20mm raisers and tilt the handlebar a bit forward.
I'm looking on line and can only seem to find right hand brake levers, is that what you ordered ? Thanks in advance
Is your parking brake OEM? I have a 2015 Honda CTX700N DCT and it would be nice for the controls to match what is on my 2021 Yamaha Zuma 125 scooter. I do not mind the right foot rear brake pedal on the Honda, but it would be trick if that were a redundant accelerator control… great info in your video!
Yes, the parking brake is OEM, just relocated. Thank you for the compliment, I really do appreciate it.
What a great video. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but was apprehensive about attempting this job. After watching your video, you've made me feel much more comfortable about doing it myself. And kudos on the parts list. The guy who helps me at partzilla probably will appreciate it more than me. I've had trouble finding tank protectors for my 2022 ATAS dct. The ones you have look really good. Can I ask who makes those? Thanks for your time and energy. You're good at what you do.
Ok. Quick question is there a check valve in the system?
I'm sorry but I'm not sure I understand the question. Wish I could answer other than to say that I didn't add anything other than what is listed/described.
Really good video
Thank you very much!
DCT and quick shifter, how does that work work ? Maybe a good reason to do another video. 🤣👌
Once the bike has, "learned" it is there (which is a requirement, after installation), it is really rather remarkable. It doesn't operate quite like a standard shift lever but it is very comfortable and intuitive. I'm not sure a how-to video would help much, though, because installation is complete and I'd rather not completely uninstall it, just to reinstall it. There is a video currently on UA-cam that covers its installation quite well. In fact...I watched his video, first, and used it as a tutorial.
Nice video. I have a 2022 as well and was wondering how you like your Corbin seat? Is it the low or high version? Thanks
It is the low version and came with my bike, which I purchased with 800'ish miles. So far, I find it to be quite comfortable, HOWEVER, I have noticed that it tends to "force" me forward and I don't really like that (can be a squisher of things lol). It can also cause your reach to be shorter than you might like, depending on your height and arm length. What I DO like about it being the low version is that, at 6'3", I can SO easily flat foot that I may enjoy it very much off road. If I don't, then...well...the bike came with the stock 2-piece seat and I'll just give that a shot. Thanks very much for your comment and questions.
@@spyceoflyfe3488 I have a SARGENT seats based from Jacksonville, Florida. I have a 2022 AFT DCT. They dont have a mold for 2022 yet, so I have to drop off my OEM two piece seats, to have them work on. I love it, it does not move me forward when I ride. I also had it in low configuration, since I am 5'8", with 30 inches inseam.
Hi! I’ve done my installation tonight :)
Can you give us the color of the two wires for the brake switch? Thx you :)
I wish I could but I just saw this comment and, honestly, it's been months since I did the job and I don't remember :( .
Hi, great video. Did you have any trouble with the teardrop pushing out when the brake is operated? I have done the mod, but the brake is soft and when I look at the teardrop I can see the pressure pushing it out. Any thoughts?
No, I've actually experienced none of that. In fact, it's rock solid. I did, however, make a mistake at first in that I didn't have the o-ring seated fully inside the master so the system never bled properly and the teardrop began leaking minutes later. As soon as I seated the o-ring completely, everything bled perfectly, and quickly, and has been golden ever since.
I experience this on mine, even if I seated the o-ring properly. It happened twice already. The solution I did, I use JB weld on top of the tear drop to provide extra strength to hold the tear drop in place. It had been solid so far. No more pulling out. I also bought a spare rear brake assembly, just in case I wanted to return it to OEM.
would this work on a 2017 dct
So, a leftyoctomy then.❤❤❤❤😂😂😂😂
Great vid for those that need to do these kind of things.
Many thanks from UK 🇬🇧
Great video, my dude! I'm looking to do this very thing! Also, what rubber tank protector are you using? That looks very grippy and comfortable. Thanks for sharing! 🤘
Awesome job. Where are you located? Florida here.
Minnesota, land of limited riding opportunity!
@@spyceoflyfe3488 currently doing the same setup to mine, just waiting on the parts. Thanks again.
Never installed an allen key before!
So where did clutch go ?
Says DCT in the video title 🧐
F
G
I need to give you my Africa for accessorizing it.. 🫣