5 minutes after I completed building a 30” jointer plane, by doing exactly as he showed doing, I was planing and hearing the wonderful hiss of the shavings.
That was a wonderful explanation and troubleshooting video. I have a couple of my wooden planes that were jamming and didn’t know how to tune them up. Never thought of checking the prongs, but after this video I went over to the shop and sure enough that was the issue! They’ll be singing soon! (Hopefully) Thank you!
Thanks for going through the adjustments and troubleshooting, Joshua. I picked up a Krenov-style kit from Hock Tools a few years ago and got hooked. I've since picked up all of their plans and made most of them. They're always a pleasure to use along with the power tool and CNC projects.
Thank you for this very informative video. With the high-res cameras you use, your videos are so enjoyable to watch. Love the close-ups. I just ordered my first wooden fore-plane and now I now how to use it!
Great Video - Thank You! I was wondering if the "little fingers" on the wooden wedge could be adjusted as I wasn't sure and didn't want to ruin a plane. I did indeed have a jamb due to this and have rectified the problem thanks to your video.
I have a question: I recently bought a number of planes from England, where I lived many years ago. My late father and my grand father were cabinet makers (and many more generations with them.) I am not a professional, but I do restoration work as a hobby. I am confronted with a dilemma. Some of the old Sheffield irons are in need of so much restructuring and straightening that I am tempted to order a number of Hock Tool irons to replace them. I have used these irons (Hock) in my Stanley planes, and I am super impressed. Aside from the expense of buying new irons, are there any other aspects to worry about? Although I understand very well that sharpening is essential to wood working, I’d rather spend my time actually working rather than straightening old steel, neglected and or abused by people who didn’t know what they were dealing with. I am not talking about the original craftsmen who used these tools, but rather the people now selling them. Thanks for your advice!
Impedance is indeed a word, in electrical engineering it is a quantity of the same dimension as resistance but it is complex valued and the imaginary part is used to model the capacitive (capacitor) or inductive (coil) property of the component it describes.
The wooden planes can also get jamming if the cap iron does not fit the blade, as you said in the last episode, and if the blade does not fit the planer body, i.e. if it is too big. I also noticed that the blade that are painted are more difficult to adjust. I also had a wooden plane with a single blade and it got stuck because the blade slots were cut too deep, even if I shorten the wedge, it gets stuck in that location. I solved it by rounding the corners of the blade, like with a scrub plane and sharpening the wedge at the bottom.
I have a question that has plagued me for a while. Diagrams dont explain it, so I'm hoping you know the answer. On a wooden bodied plane, at the toe and heel, there is often a veritcal chamfer that goes approximately half way down the plane corner towards the sole. Once it reached about halfway, there's a horizontal cut, using what appears to be a rat tail file. This is evident on all 4 corners of the plane. What is the purpose of this? And does it have a name? It seems like pretty much all wooden plane makers did it.
Awesome video, Many Thanks. Question: With a single iron plane, should the iron be polished for ease of adjustment, or should they have a slight amount of roughness so they don't slide out of adjustment ? I would also like to mention, I have a couple of bevel-down transitional planes, which were never really used, and definitely never sharpened, the cutting edge is severely chipped on both, (I believe that it's from carbide buildup from heat treating, which produced a very hard and chippy edge), I think the the previous owners tried using them, they chipped, and onto the shelf they went. Well to the point, both blades were sharpened at a 12° bevel angle, any thoughts on that, or is that angle typical of that time period (pre 1908) ?
12 degrees doesn't leave enough steel for the edge to hold up. Tilt the iron up when sharpening and impart 25 to 30 degree secondary bevel. You'll get rid of that acute bevel over time.
@@RafaelHe yes, thank you. I was curious if you had run across factory sharpening at that angle. It seems unlikely to me that two different people would chose that angle to resharpen a 25 or 30° factory angle. Many thanks
@@thomasgronek6469 You definitely want a 25-degree primary bevel. Also, I would not polish the entire back of the iron. Grip is your friend when it comes to wedging that iron in place. It's easy to adjust irons with pitting/texture.
I don't know if I enjoy Joshua's explanations most, the tools, the noise they make, or the view of the cabin and the garden.
5 minutes after I completed building a 30” jointer plane, by doing exactly as he showed doing, I was planing and hearing the wonderful hiss of the shavings.
Wow. Rex Krueger sent us over here from his shavehorse video, and boy am I glad he did!! Liked and subscribed! This is brilliant!!
Thank you for your explanation, mate!
I like your finger fine tuning method. I too struggle with sighting an iron. Thanks for this informative video.
Beatifull sunny workshop👍
Brilliant explanation, thank you. Regards Jim UK.
Excellent demonstration on setting up and trouble shooting wooden planes. They are a joy to work with when they are properly prepared.
Woohoo, team wooden planes! I'm going to take a closer look at my planes. Thank you very much :^)
Thanks Joshua for this informative video. I have a few wooden planes that I didn't understand until now. Time to pull them out and tune them up.
Glad to hear a few more will live on!
Thank you for the excellent explanation.
The combination of presentation and good camera angles is fantastic.
That was a wonderful explanation and troubleshooting video. I have a couple of my wooden planes that were jamming and didn’t know how to tune them up. Never thought of checking the prongs, but after this video I went over to the shop and sure enough that was the issue! They’ll be singing soon! (Hopefully)
Thank you!
Nice! Have fun!
Thanks for going through the adjustments and troubleshooting, Joshua. I picked up a Krenov-style kit from Hock Tools a few years ago and got hooked. I've since picked up all of their plans and made most of them. They're always a pleasure to use along with the power tool and CNC projects.
Really amazing content. Thanks for sharing this. I will be a Patreon supporter.
I enjoyed the video very much, Sir! I also learned a number of things that are very useful. Thank you, Sir!
Thank you for this very informative video. With the high-res cameras you use, your videos are so enjoyable to watch. Love the close-ups. I just ordered my first wooden fore-plane and now I now how to use it!
I bought your bench top joinery book and it has helped me alot my hand tool working. I build a Stickley Rocking chair using your M&T method.
That's awesome! So glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for these informative videos.
Great Video - Thank You! I was wondering if the "little fingers" on the wooden wedge could be adjusted as I wasn't sure and didn't want to ruin a plane. I did indeed have a jamb due to this and have rectified the problem thanks to your video.
Stoked to hear it was helpful!
I have a question: I recently bought a number of planes from England, where I lived many years ago. My late father and my grand father were cabinet makers (and many more generations with them.) I am not a professional, but I do restoration work as a hobby. I am confronted with a dilemma. Some of the old Sheffield irons are in need of so much restructuring and straightening that I am tempted to order a number of Hock Tool irons to replace them. I have used these irons (Hock) in my Stanley planes, and I am super impressed. Aside from the expense of buying new irons, are there any other aspects to worry about? Although I understand very well that sharpening is essential to wood working, I’d rather spend my time actually working rather than straightening old steel, neglected and or abused by people who didn’t know what they were dealing with. I am not talking about the original craftsmen who used these tools, but rather the people now selling them. Thanks for your advice!
Impedance is indeed a word, in electrical engineering it is a quantity of the same dimension as resistance but it is complex valued and the imaginary part is used to model the capacitive (capacitor) or inductive (coil) property of the component it describes.
Thanks! Yes, of course. My brain lapse during the recording. What else is new? 🤣
The wooden planes can also get jamming if the cap iron does not fit the blade, as you said in the last episode, and if the blade does not fit the planer body, i.e. if it is too big. I also noticed that the blade that are painted are more difficult to adjust. I also had a wooden plane with a single blade and it got stuck because the blade slots were cut too deep, even if I shorten the wedge, it gets stuck in that location. I solved it by rounding the corners of the blade, like with a scrub plane and sharpening the wedge at the bottom.
I'm not looking for projection by sighting down the sole, I'm looking to determine the lateral adjustment.
I have a question that has plagued me for a while. Diagrams dont explain it, so I'm hoping you know the answer. On a wooden bodied plane, at the toe and heel, there is often a veritcal chamfer that goes approximately half way down the plane corner towards the sole. Once it reached about halfway, there's a horizontal cut, using what appears to be a rat tail file. This is evident on all 4 corners of the plane. What is the purpose of this? And does it have a name? It seems like pretty much all wooden plane makers did it.
Awesome video, Many Thanks. Question: With a single iron plane, should the iron be polished for ease of adjustment, or should they have a slight amount of roughness so they don't slide out of adjustment ? I would also like to mention, I have a couple of bevel-down transitional planes, which were never really used, and definitely never sharpened, the cutting edge is severely chipped on both, (I believe that it's from carbide buildup from heat treating, which produced a very hard and chippy edge), I think the the previous owners tried using them, they chipped, and onto the shelf they went. Well to the point, both blades were sharpened at a 12° bevel angle, any thoughts on that, or is that angle typical of that time period (pre 1908) ?
12 degrees doesn't leave enough steel for the edge to hold up. Tilt the iron up when sharpening and impart 25 to 30 degree secondary bevel. You'll get rid of that acute bevel over time.
@@RafaelHe yes, thank you. I was curious if you had run across factory sharpening at that angle. It seems unlikely to me that two different people would chose that angle to resharpen a 25 or 30° factory angle. Many thanks
@@thomasgronek6469 You definitely want a 25-degree primary bevel. Also, I would not polish the entire back of the iron. Grip is your friend when it comes to wedging that iron in place. It's easy to adjust irons with pitting/texture.
@@mortisetenonmagazine Many thanks again.
@@thomasgronek6469 I've a couple of tapered plane irons that have a very low bevel, they look NOS, I'll measure the angle this evening and post here.
Impedance is a term from electrical engineering. I'd try to explain it but its kinda complex.