The Trying Plane In Use
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- Joshua demonstrates the use of the trying plane (also called a "jointer") at the bench. Though only used for the specific task of flattening a board or establishing a straight edge, there is no other tool that does the job so consistently.
First tool we we were shown in a workshop, 50 years ago, was a long handle brush.
Got here through Rex Krueger 👌 Thanks for sharing this experience and knowledge. I’ll ask my father in law to take his old wooden jointer plane to touch it up and take it to use. I just started out and have little experience with (wooden bodied) planes yet, and held off on purchasing a jointer until I need one. Now there’s a stack of project stuff in a corner somewhere that I think is not flat enough, so it would come in handy by this point 😁
Nice! I hadn’t realized there was a difference between jointer and trying planes. Appreciate the information!
Whilst each plane has there purpose, the sign of a wise craftsman is knowing when and what to use to get the best out of the both. The point you made of switching between planes was true in many aspects of woodwork and great piece of advice.
Oh great, now I need some wood planes to go with the 27 metal versions I have, thanks.
Thank you for explaining all the different types of tools and applications.
Good day Josh! A joy to see the shop. I miss it . Cheers mate
Good day, and another great video. Might talk about doing champers at different angles.
What an amazing channel! Situations explained by an articulated intelligent Man. Refreshing and motivating! Thank you for your time!
Thank you for the video, it was very informative and clearly stated. I have enjoyed watching all of the videos and have learned so much. I look forward to more in the future. Keep up the good work!
Yes, a fair show and tell, I have used my sargent 424 once and was in love with what it can do but I did not need to hit the gym that day.
Yes, gym membership savings is one of the underrated benefits of hand tools!
While living in the UK in the '80's, I happened to watch a TV documentary that had a large set of wood planes from approximately one foot X 4" in size up to six feet long by 10' wide (all estimates). The large one hand three "hand sets" to push it. I have often wondered over the ensuing years what they could have been used for. The "set" probably had seven or eight planes in graduated lengths from the one footer to the six footer. The owner had them mounted above his fireplace and that is what caught my attention. Thanks.
How do you care for a wooden plane? What finish is used and how do you maintain the wood? I have a new appreciation for what I thought would be essentially obsolete tools.
Great teaching!!!!
Not too much fluff speak. You achieved a distinct amount of detail explanations to make your point, but not beat it into the ground.
Thank you for you knowledge sharing.
Lovely old planes. Mine are metal.
I love the wooden ones though!👍
Excellent information glad I subscribed to your channel and your magazine.
Thanks, Frank! Glad you're enjoying them!
Great video 👍
I have a question about my wooden body jointer plane, its 28” and has an iron without a chip breaker, there's no signs that it has ever had one. There's no notch in the plane etc. Is this normal for a certain year? Thanks
Very informative and well made video.
"We're trying to work efficiently, we're trying to work fast" haha. beautiful old tools
My main surprise comes from the number of cars passing by: I thought you were in the middle of nowhere. Love your videos... As always. Love from France!
Yeah, my dead-end road is full of neighbors who love tearing up and down in their big trucks! Makes for great recording! Ha!
Good exposition and very useful, I think. I spent a long time getting to know how to plane and shaved a lot of wood. I've become "ok-ish", but I did something that I just haven't been able to correct efficiently. I somehow, and I don't know how, sharpened my number 5 iron out of square (not counting the slight camber). Now it digs in on one side even when I shift it over hard. Do you know an efficient way to get it back to square? I'm really bummed and the only solution I can see is taking a file to it and squaring it, then resharpening the whole thing.
Re-squaring by grinding or filing might be necessary in that case. I do have a couple wooden planes whose irons are sharpened somewhat out of square, but I've become accustomed to tapping the iron over so the cutting edge is parallel in the mouth. The fact that the top of the iron is tilted to the side somewhat makes no difference in operation. I do think wooden planes allow for more of this "skewed" adjustment than metal-bodied planes do.
Great video thanks for sharing!
It kind of defeats the purpose of the long sole if it's skewed with the majority of it off to your right. I understand skewing to achieve a smoother, slicing cut. But having the majority of the sole behind the iron completely off the work piece? You've just turned a jointer plane into a very heavy jack plane. Griping complete. Great information well presented. Subbed and liked. Keep up the great content.
Rex Kruger introduced me to your channel thanks
I recently restored a 22" wooden jointer, popped a new handle in it and go the blade up to scuff, love woodies!
but with the stanley, you can tighten and widen the mouth simple by adjusting the frog no?
Yeah, frogs can be moved. Not sure I'd use the word "simple" to describe that, though. If I was using metal-bodied planes, I'd be moving the frogs back to open the mouths.
@@mortisetenonmagazine The Bedrock line were the only ones I'd say had simple frog adjustments.
Thank you for the very good explanation. I struggle with planing. This makes me want to go get that old wood-body jointer off the shelf! Could you do a video on your sharpening technique?
Yeah, we will put it on the list for someday. In the meantime, check out our instructional videos at mortiseandtenonmag.com. My "Apprenticeship: The Foundations" covers that.
Any tips on technique? I'm a beginner and I have a 24" wooden body plane and I've struggled with getting flat edges. My edges tend to get a hump in the middle. I've tried skewing my plane and just going over the middle, but it has been hard to get a dead flat edge. Lately, I just switch to a smoother and try to hit the hump in the middle.
Sounds like your starting and ending pressure is more than in the middle. I would advise you to try to envision taking a deeper scoop out of the middle as you plane... because if you have a flat sole, you won't be able to. Instead it will be flat.
I was told heavy in front at the start (almost "lifting" the tote end), transitioning to even pressure in the middle. Finish with zero pressure on the front right as the plane reaches the end of the board.
Probably should elaborate that the purpose of this is only to ensure proper register of the part of the sole touching the wood.
The previous advise is really good for preventing your plane from riding the hump up and down which can and will happen even with a 30" plane if you're not aware of the possibility and conciously feeling for it.
If big jointer planes are so common, why not shorten one to a foreplane length? Or does that idea send shivers through you?
Jointers usually have their totes a bit further back from the iron than fore planes do - sometimes inches more. Cutting one down would likely mess with the balance of the tool.
good lesson, thanks
I've always wondered: why isnt the blade seated all the way at the back of the plane? What benefit is there to referencing off a surface you just cut? Or is it more that there's a detriment to NOT doing that?
Robert Wearing talks about this in his book, "The Essential Woodworker." Basically, unless a hand plane is made with an extremely complex adjustable sole, it is impossible to plane a perfectly flat surface. However, we're just working wood - the tolerances are close enough to flat and planar. A longer hand plane leaves a surface closer to perfectly flat than a shorter one. And while your suggestion (move the iron back) might lead to an even higher degree of perfection, I imagine the balance of that theoretical tool would make it really uncomfortable to use.
I understand you're not too fond of metal bodied planes but, you can open the throat with a file on one of them to enable larger chip extraction. The frog is also adjustable as previously mentioned, which is easily accomplished with the Bedrock style planes. Thanks for the tutorial. Nice work.
Aha!. Now I get it, thanks.
The old wooden jointer I have is 9mm thicker at the rear than the front. Clearly the sole is worn and it is not surprising that it has a wide mouth.
I'd be interested to know how long that plane is.
@@notesfromtheforest 560mm (22 in), made of European Beech
@@robertread8436 That is interesting! Must have been a workhorse.
Why is it that on a hand plane the sole is one, continuous surface, but on a power plane or jointer the surface behind the blade is stepped down to compensate for the wood that's removed? It seems like on a long stroke the pressure on a hand plane would be shifting front to back resulting in a concavity.
Using a power jointer, you should be applying pressure to the lead end, and in fact transfer any weight you have on the trailing end forward of the cutter once you are about mid way through. Otherwise you can create some concavity where you want it flat, because the board can bend under your weight. Wooden and iron planes can flex too, which is partially why the totes and knobs are located where they are. Because you are supply weight at the front and the back there is no appreciable load over the blade. Normally you start a stroke with your weight toward the front, and then shift to the tote as you near the end of the board. I like my Stanley's though and many of us who like iron planes like them because of the weight. I've never had trouble with the mouth choking up when the iron, cap iron and frog position are properly set up.
It's theoretically impossible to create a perfectly flat surface with a hand plane - at best, we can establish an imperceptibly curved surface. But this is well within the tolerances needed for precision woodworking. Remember that a power plane/jointer is taking off a bunch more wood than we are per cut.
@@notesfromtheforest Thanks. I appreciate that you actually answered the question. :)
Hi guys, love and appreciate your videos. How do you spell the type of plane discussed that sounds like “ray-zee” (with the lowered tote)? Thanks.
"Razee" is the American way of spelling it.
Interesting. I always thought they were called planes because they make the wood plain.
about cambered blades in jointer planes Shannon Roger ,from reinassance woodworking, showed that is useful to joint to board together when planed together. It is too long to write it here
The purpose of jointing two boards at once is to eliminate error in your planing "roll angle" by making complementary angles on both edges so that they book fold to 180 degrees included angle. So, if you're off by 1 degree from square when planing, when measured, one will be 89 degrees and the other 91 degrees. Of course they MUST be book folded for this to work. But it works VERY well and can save a lot of time when you don't have to have perfectly square boards. But that's with a flat iron.
A cambered iron brings extra error possibilities into the mix if you use this method. You essentially cut that camber angle into each board, then multiplied it by 2. So if you're camber was 1 degree and you were able to keep the iron centered, you have a full 2 degrees where the outside edges would by high and the center where the boards meet when planing would be low. Now open your book fold and eek!
I suppose, if you are REALLY skilled, you could perform some amazing feats of wow by not book folding them and end for ending instead, keeping the peak of the camber perfectly at the center of the sandwiched boards, and getting half the cambers opposed to cancel each other out. But just the thought of that gives me a headache. Haha!
I like my edge working plane irons flat. I round the corners slightly at the edges only.
@@mikemorgan5015 i am going to link you the video. I already know what you talked about. What i wanted to say is using two blades one with cambered and one flat. You are braver than me to write so much here, I am too lazy😅
@@mikemorgan5015 so the steps are, you aline the two boards one slightly higher , so in this way you are going to plane less. Than with a foreplane you plane both boards, in this way you have a small hollow in the middle. Than with a jointer you plane it. You start to have two shavings on the sides of the iron (we have an hollow in the center) and when you have a consistent shaving you're done. Seems more work but really it is not.
@@mikemorgan5015 ua-cam.com/video/v-A7tkSFUOM/v-deo.html
I think it looks similar to the trick you do when you want to plane straight a board, you make a little hollow in the center than with your jointer you true it
@@enricociuppa7093 It's a fine line between brave and insane my friend.........haha! I'll find the video.
I've only bought wooden planes. They're much lighter and have been around much longer than metal ones.
Paul sellers a pattern maker said in his life time no plane will warp in his life time doesn’t matter how you set it on the bench
I think Orange Osage would be awesome for soles, last for ever....if it's stable enough.
5:07
Found your un-used broom hanging on post behind you
Not unused: sweep-up happens at the end of the day. This was a productive day's work.
Its called a Try plane in English .
I've been 50 years doing what you explained and have taught many apprentices and would never let any of them sit a plane on a bench sole down ,unless over the gap
ua-cam.com/video/GOlLVtz3RCI/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/RcmSySP-pec/v-deo.html
Small point of order: when I was a lad 50 years ago I would have been thrown out of the shop if I put the plane on the bench with the soul/blade down. Was taught to rest the plane on its side so as not to damage or dull the blade.
This is a great point of debate among woodworkers. We might just do a video about it!
Andrew, you were taught that because you were a small boy at the time and the guy teaching you didn't want to have to sharpen the iron because some knucklehead set it down on a chisel. In working shops, no one ever set a plane on its side. That is the difference between school learning and shop learning. Just saying.
One of the things I like about wood planes is when it is cold in the shed the wood planes are way more pleasant to hold/use than the freezing cold metal bodied planes.
So true.
Great video, but something that annoys me, never put a plane with his chisel on the workbench but always on his side!!!!!!
You and I were both taught the same....but I've often been truly lined up on something like this...and been wrong. Paul Sellars, Charles Schultz and a good few others advocate for setting the handplane down on its sole, to avoid knocking the cutting iron out of adjustment. They have a very good argument and I've been doing it that way for a couple of years now....granted, I most often have the fore end of the plane resting on a pencil or piece of scrap -Veteran '66-68
Rest it on shavings. If you are sharpening to over1000 grit it’s worth it.
It's one of those rules the old 8th-grade or high-school shop teachers used to terrorize their students. I remember it well. My wood shop teacher was somewhere between 50 and 90 years old, and his right-hand index finger was bent on the end about 45 degrees--something about an accident with dynamite (or so he said). If he caught you placing a plane on its sole, he'd point that finger at you--which meant he was actually pointing at the guy next to you--and he'd say, "Young man!" and he'd launch into some cautionary tale that had nothing to do with hand planes (or wood working at all, for that matter).
Great info, but with better planning it wouldn’t have to be so long.
It’s against the law to put any plane on a surface like you have done 👎
Lots of people on both sides of the debate on this point. Some say that it's best to put the plane sole-down (keeps you from catching a hand on the iron, and a wooden bench top won't harm the edge), while some say to tip the plane over. We might do a video on the debate, since Joshua and I have differing views on it!
On its side when you are working the bench alone, flat down if you share the bench. The biggest risk to the plane iron is other tools. The biggest risk to you is not know where things are