BEFORE compressing the rings, LUBRICATE the rings, the piston skirt and even the ring compressor itself with engine oil. Even the cylinder walls should be lightly lubricated, Otherwise damage may occur during piston installation.
To make it easier to follow the progression of these videos, you should number them in the title. Also, when you add a new video in the series you could go back and post a link that would direct us to the next video. Great videos and very professional. Thanks
I love this show so much its helping me learn so much I am in the military and I am getting out to be a mechanical engineering because of your show so thank you so much
just a tip for next time. before you send your engine to the machine shop that is the best time to remove the old paint this way you can get ALL of it off. then once you get it back you can use a good primer before you paint it. its just better to start completely fresh as opposed to removing just the loose paint
Have the machine shop install the new cam bearings. Always use dish soap and water and brushes to do a final cleaning after you bring It home from the machine shop. Use compressed air to blow everyting dry.
i love the show and im a highschool freshman and i was wondering when i got get to college what should i major in to get into cars i was thinking mechanical engineering but im not exactly sure
Great video as always Chris. I also would love a video on window tinting. We have an old '96 Accord I easily removed the old cracjed & bubbled tint with a steam machine, a razor & a few towels. As how to put clean, streak & bubble free tint back on would be an invaluable video especially under the hot California summer sun.
why would you not use plasti gauge to check the bearing clearances on the main caps? And you torque the 4 inner caps first and then hit the first main cap with a rubber mallet or hammer on another hammer to seat the thrust bearing
If you notice in one shot at 10:05, they put what looks like white assembly lube on the cylinder walls... which is TOTALLY NOT what you want to use....
NOTE: All our previous videos were accidentally deleted, so we had to re-upload them all. Sorry for the inconvenience. We hope you continue to subscribe, LIKE and Favorite our videos! Visit our website (motorz.tv) for more!
More interested in painting it than showing where all the oil gallery plugs go especially the 2 hidden ones most commonly missed and without them you destroy the engine.
Not a big fan of A&P they don't seem to make very much stuff for a 94 Chevy I was wondering if you could recommend sights that will carry aftermarket for a truck that is 94 thank you. I all ready get LMC
Is there a trick to putting the piston rings onto the piston without bending or damaging them? Also, how much does a rebuild kit cost such as the one you're using in this video? (everything) BTW this is the best video i've seen yet for SB rebuilds.
So, from start to finish, how much did this whole process cost, approximately? i am curious because i would like to this to my 5.0, doing all the work myself (except machining the parts), but i have no idea of how much it run.
This world is crazy. Just 9 years ago it was totally cool to have a sexy lady help you build a motor for the fun of it, now it's probably a hate crime in 6 states. Great Video!
the cross hatch put in the cylinder during the honing process will make the rings rotate in the cylinder, and due to imperfections and differences in the thickness and design of each ring, they will rotate at different speeds. in fact all two stroke engines have pins in the pistons that disables the rings ability to rotate, so the orientation of the ring gaps during assembly is pointless because it will all get messed up during engine operation.
Since this is about a rebuild how about a custom build how do i know on what grade of oil do i use on the build either NA and F induction? And on grade of oil for certian tolerances
Did you all have the rotating assembly balanced? I have a 383 stroker project im working on, and would love to hear your input. Scat crank, scat rods and wiseco pistons...whats your take?
@MrChico809: Scat crank....hardened forging? Okay. Well, call a reputable crank grinder in your state. Why? "Everyone" gets the "forged pieces" But, very few get their shaft lightened by a competent crank grinder who could correctly remove about 20 ounces of material off that rotating mass. You are trying for increased torque with the longer stroke, but sacrificing combustion time( hang) at tdc with a shorter rod. Lighten your crank, shorten "wind up time" and lower your ET A hardened crank is expensive to have lightened though.[tooling costs] Ask about hardening -post grind. A high quality 6.125 inch rod with appropriate high silicon piston in a tight ring package will restore complete combustion[Especially with AFR alloy heads]2.05 int and titanium roller and a Jessell belt drive. A long stroke crank with a custom reduced base circle cam[rod bolt clearance] Lunati and Hank, etc have this stuff-$$$. 462 cu/inch 1st Gen mouse. My 2cents: Scat/Wiseco, Ebay parts. Good for scattering name brand 20w50 onto a track in the 1st 60 ft. The difference between every ones "383 Stroker" and the one that outperforms.
Threadlock maybe used, but the torque values may differ. Common application would be on the rodbolts. Pretty sure the ARP site covers the use of other compounds and how they change the torque required. It still remains important to lube the area under the bolt head/nut as well to over come friction for the same reason.
If you click the Show Notes link in the description it will take you to our website. Scroll down the page and you'll see the book on the right-hand side!
Most rod bearing halves are the same and can go in either top or bottom right? Mines a 95 350 sbc with stock rods, as far as I can tell they are both the same but don't wanna do it wrong lol using std size king si rod bearings
@@jdrok5026 are you sure about a 2 bolt being as strong as a 4 bolt I have had both and my 2 bolt arp 2000 studs cracked 2 main caps at 2,000 miles with 525hp 531lb.ft my 4 bolt arp 2000 studs has held 565hp and 588lb.ft for 36,770 miles both are 880 L31 blocks just capable of different holding more-less horsepower both shifted at 6800 rpm identical converter,transmissions, and rear diff ratios
Freeze plugs aren't - they are core plugs - and they are not where the molten metal is introduced - they are where the inner sand core is supported and later cleaned out when the casting is made.
You might want to find a new machine shop as it seems the one you used did not hot tank the block. If they would have there would be no paint left on the block to be removed with a wire brush. Most shops will shoot some wd 40 on the block to stop any rusting that will start on a totally clean block. All you do is wash off the oil and primer the block after which you can apply the color coat.
You'd have to pull the heads off to check if the pistons are stamped saying .30 over On sbc 350 .30 over is 355 cubic inches .60 over is 360 cubic inches
oSHOLLIVERo They arent freeze plugs, they are welch plugs or expansion plugs used to fill the holes left after the casting process. They were never meant to pop out if the engine freezes.
thats all wonderful but no plastagauge to check tolerance no oil on rings or wrist pins dont offset rear main i dont use that molly cam lobe grease on anything but cam lobes and i will never wear gloves while building a engine ya cant feel grit ol boy couldnt work at my shop i prime every engine built no lube under head bolts those two clean dry surfaces play hell with torque readings after torquin head and main bolts take a fat ass puntch and a 2 pound hammer and give the bolt heads a good wrap then re chech readings it just helps everyone kinda relax but hay i guess if ya trust everyone to do a perfect job everythings ok but i would rather know what my bearing tollerances are perfect world or not
Many people mention crush on the bearings.......And oil clearances. I am going to tell Ya-ll a little engine builder 'secret..............I buy dozens of quality tr-metal Clevite rod/main bearing sets,cams lifters, forged pistons sets. I measure all of them and hand fit selected parts from all the combined sets as sum total to the engine I am assembling. I do this for advantage of: slight manufacturer tolerance variations in mass production. I continue "mix and match" until they no longer meet my criteria. HINT [Some big name racing parts companies supply OEM too] And big name cam company's make 1000's of your favorite grinds ALL the time. I have an engine with precision fit. A quality hand assembled piece requiring minimal balancing and[with all machine work according to my spec] for RPM and application I am building it for. I do this for valve springs too. Straightness, seat pressure, installed height. Beware of E-bay listings of "new" engine rod/main bearing sets or forged brand-X-pistons Factory-sealed and unopened from manufacturer of engine parts, is much more meaningful compared to new" unused on Ebay. [On disassemble most newbies fail to remember which rod or main cap goes on what.]
graeme leigh There are potentially 100's+ who could view my comment. I warned of persons offering for sale precision bearings, piston rings or other engine components not in their original unopened packages. Legitimate products strive for proprietary packaging that evidences tampering unless of course It's a knockoff from Asia, with dedicated counterfeit artists doing their nasty work. It was informative in intent graeme, not derogatory. Cheers.
Any body know what the name of those pistons are called? I know mahle but I cant find them anywhere and I think if someone knew what to look up that it would really help me find them.
Do you write a list of every tool you'll need in a comment? Also where do you buy the Mahle power kit from the actual Mahle website or some other outlet store?
It's still going on TV, www.motorz.tv, and Prime Video. Full episodes aren't on YT anymore. New C10 build episodes are on hold for the time being because of the pandemic, but we'll be back at some point :) Thanks for watching
... with new complete motor rebuild except the heads , they LOOKED as if they had just came from the rebuild shop , why with only having less than 2000 miles and one oil change after break in oil and lube is motor burning oil , black , and smoke from exhaust ?? .. .. I believe oil being black is from car running too lean .. .. and to the bottom of the heads I only cleaned the up with 3m polishing discs because they looked like they were redone ... any help .. input . Im now missing car shows
@oSHOLLIVERo Yep. Another thing about them is the MAIN reason the holes are there are actually so when the block is casted, they can get the sand out. So they figured instead of welding the holes shut, they'd put plugs in case it freezes
Olivia Korte (Motorz Girl) joined the cast with S05E02 (Machine Shop episode). You can see more at motorzgirl(dot)com or her Motorz Girl Facebook page.
In reply to Chevyman5436: And anyone else wishing to learn. The "Freeze plugs" are actually part of the engine block casting process from the sand mold This is where the molten iron is actually introduced and the "holes" are left over after casting. Solution: Drive a "welch" plug into it to seal the water jacket. If you wish you CAN run water in an engine: The downsides are: Water boils at 212 Fahrenheit. A mix of low mineral content water [distilled or deionized] and Glycol type low silica coolant increases the boiling point well above 212 and has additives to reduce corrosion. Frozen water DOES expand: Popping out the welch plugs because they ARE the weak point. If you have ever removed heads from an engine suffering extended abuse of no glycol coolant, expect the factory steel shim head gaskets to have rusted the heads and block together as a unit. Solution: Thor god of Thunder application with 4lb hammer and four foot length of 1-1/4" pipe. Just be very careful cursing the owner between hammer blows.
No, 50/50 antifreeze still boils about 223F. It's the 16psi pressure that raises the boiling temp. That's why you don't remove the cap on a hot radiator, it will lose pressure and spray steam and boiling coolant everywhere.
+Fast Furious block casting numbers, 4"bore if its stock, 5.7 inch rods, and a 3.48 stroke. 327's have a 4 inch bore as well. so be careful to measure the stroke if your going off of bore diameter. Google is your friend.
Good shows. They are right about safety goggles and would hate to get that wire size stuck in me. Had a fine wire wheel stick me in eye and if you ever saw "Clockwork Orange", that's the same apparatus used by doctor to hold your eyelids open while they pull wire out. Only enjoyable part was sweet heart nurse putting me in a headlock while doctor went to work. I was lucky and eye was OK afterward.
@ 10:59 that bearing DOES NOT go on that rod end cap. Also to check crankshaft end play you need to use a dial gauge W/ magnetic base and two pry bars. And that's just for starters on what's going on WRONG HERE. ~V~ Obsession
BEFORE compressing the rings, LUBRICATE the rings, the piston skirt and even the ring compressor itself with engine oil. Even the cylinder walls should be lightly lubricated, Otherwise damage may occur during piston installation.
To make it easier to follow the progression of these videos, you should number them in the title. Also, when you add a new video in the series you could go back and post a link that would direct us to the next video.
Great videos and very professional.
Thanks
I love this show so much its helping me learn so much I am in the military and I am getting out to be a mechanical engineering because of your show so thank you so much
just a tip for next time. before you send your engine to the machine shop that is the best time to remove the old paint this way you can get ALL of it off. then once you get it back you can use a good primer before you paint it. its just better to start completely fresh as opposed to removing just the loose paint
Have the machine shop install the new cam bearings.
Always use dish soap and water and brushes to do a final cleaning after you bring It home from the machine shop.
Use compressed air to blow everyting dry.
i love the show and im a highschool freshman and i was wondering when i got get to college what should i major in to get into cars i was thinking mechanical engineering but im not exactly sure
It's preferred to go to UTI or any School meant for Mechanics
Don't you need to plasti gauge the bearings to check the bearing clearance?
Sponsors/advertising helps us produce more episodes. Don't read too much into that :) Thanks for watching!
Great video as always Chris. I also would love a video on window tinting. We have an old '96 Accord I easily removed the old cracjed & bubbled tint with a steam machine, a razor & a few towels. As how to put clean, streak & bubble free tint back on would be an invaluable video especially under the hot California summer sun.
This is a great show! ive been watching it before i start UTI and its helping me a lot.
Do you guys happen to have the details on the engine rebuild manual you showcased during the tools portion in the beginning of the segment?
why would you not use plasti gauge to check the bearing clearances on the main caps? And you torque the 4 inner caps first and then hit the first main cap with a rubber mallet or hammer on another hammer to seat the thrust bearing
Do you have to degree the cam or anytbing?
Crazy where the most replayed is
What about oiling the pistons and rings before installation ?
If you notice in one shot at 10:05, they put what looks like white assembly lube on the cylinder walls... which is TOTALLY NOT what you want to use....
NOTE: All our previous videos were accidentally deleted, so we had to re-upload them all. Sorry for the inconvenience. We hope you continue to subscribe, LIKE and Favorite our videos! Visit our website (motorz.tv) for more!
More interested in painting it than showing where all the oil gallery plugs go especially the 2 hidden ones most commonly missed and without them you destroy the engine.
Not a big fan of A&P they don't seem to make very much stuff for a 94 Chevy I was wondering if you could recommend sights that will carry aftermarket for a truck that is 94 thank you. I all ready get LMC
i used mahle piston in my b18 gsr and i couldnt be more pleased with them took 2 weeks to arrive though
Can't lose with Mickey Thomson! ⚡⚡
Is there a trick to putting the piston rings onto the piston without bending or damaging them?
Also, how much does a rebuild kit cost such as the one you're using in this video? (everything)
BTW this is the best video i've seen yet for SB rebuilds.
So, from start to finish, how much did this whole process cost, approximately? i am curious because i would like to this to my 5.0, doing all the work myself (except machining the parts), but i have no idea of how much it run.
Thanks... we all agree with you!
Does sears carry the cam bearing installation tool?
UA-cam does that sometimes, but the video is fine. Just click to another section of video when that happens, then click back.
This world is crazy. Just 9 years ago it was totally cool to have a sexy lady help you build a motor for the fun of it, now it's probably a hate crime in 6 states. Great Video!
Yeah it was fun while it lasted... thanks for the comment, Chris.
the cross hatch put in the cylinder during the honing process will make the rings rotate in the cylinder, and due to imperfections and differences in the thickness and design of each ring, they will rotate at different speeds. in fact all two stroke engines have pins in the pistons that disables the rings ability to rotate, so the orientation of the ring gaps during assembly is pointless because it will all get messed up during engine operation.
Since this is about a rebuild how about a custom build how do i know on what grade of oil do i use on the build either NA and F induction? And on grade of oil for certian tolerances
I am rebuilding an engine, only problem is my "shop" is on the second floor, could you give some advice for hand carrying the engine?
Hello,
I have an L46 to rebuild and I would like to know where can I buy a kit.
I am in France.
Thanks in advance.
what do you think about rebuiting a hevy 327
Did you all have the rotating assembly balanced? I have a 383 stroker project im working on, and would love to hear your input. Scat crank, scat rods and wiseco pistons...whats your take?
@MrChico809:
Scat crank....hardened forging? Okay. Well, call a reputable crank grinder in your state. Why? "Everyone" gets the "forged pieces" But, very few get their shaft lightened by a competent crank grinder who could correctly remove about 20 ounces of material off that rotating mass.
You are trying for increased torque with the longer stroke, but sacrificing combustion time( hang) at tdc with a shorter rod. Lighten your crank, shorten "wind up time" and lower your ET
A hardened crank is expensive to have lightened though.[tooling costs]
Ask about hardening -post grind. A high quality 6.125 inch rod with appropriate high silicon piston in a tight ring package will restore complete combustion[Especially with AFR alloy heads]2.05 int and titanium roller and a Jessell belt drive.
A long stroke crank with a custom reduced base circle cam[rod bolt clearance] Lunati and Hank, etc have this stuff-$$$. 462 cu/inch 1st Gen mouse.
My 2cents: Scat/Wiseco, Ebay parts. Good for scattering name brand 20w50 onto a track in the 1st 60 ft.
The difference between every ones "383 Stroker" and the one that outperforms.
We're glad it helps! Thanks for watching!
She's like what the fuck is he talking about
Threadlock maybe used, but the torque values may differ. Common application would be on the rodbolts. Pretty sure the ARP site covers the use of other compounds and how they change the torque required. It still remains important to lube the area under the bolt head/nut as well to over come friction for the same reason.
If you click the Show Notes link in the description it will take you to our website. Scroll down the page and you'll see the book on the right-hand side!
Get your cam bearings done by your machine shop it’s worth every penny
Most rod bearing halves are the same and can go in either top or bottom right? Mines a 95 350 sbc with stock rods, as far as I can tell they are both the same but don't wanna do it wrong lol using std size king si rod bearings
No, there is a top and bottom half.
very useful in small engines
Where can I pick up one of those small block Chevy manuals?
The machine shop can burn all the paint off and install the cam bearings which is a much better way to do it. Also use brass freeze plugs.
Yeah I have no idea why they didn't have the machine shop remove the paint
My local shop will remove the paint and repaint it for u if u ask for little to nothing
Hmm. I didnt know that. So when the water freezes they just pop out ? Makes since. Thanks man.
I agree Terry. Clean it before all the machining. #2, if you're going to do this process, why not start with a 4 bolt?
because a 4 bolt is just as strong as a 2 bolt only splayed 4 bolt main caps really make a difference
@@jdrok5026 are you sure about a 2 bolt being as strong as a 4 bolt I have had both and my 2 bolt arp 2000 studs cracked 2 main caps at 2,000 miles with 525hp 531lb.ft my 4 bolt arp 2000 studs has held 565hp and 588lb.ft for 36,770 miles both are 880 L31 blocks just capable of different holding more-less horsepower both shifted at 6800 rpm identical converter,transmissions, and rear diff ratios
Freeze plugs aren't - they are core plugs - and they are not where the molten metal is introduced - they are where the inner sand core is supported and later cleaned out when the casting is made.
uh ok then lol i call bullshit on that statement
jdr ok
Hes correct and you're a moron.
Both of y'all are right. So just shut up
Get this man a beer!
You might want to find a new machine shop as it seems the one you used did not hot tank the block. If they would have there would be no paint left on the block to be removed with a wire brush. Most shops will shoot some wd 40 on the block to stop any rusting that will start on a totally clean block. All you do is wash off the oil and primer the block after which you can apply the color coat.
a good hot tank would've taken the paint off and who paints before assembly ?
we always put grease on the main seal too.
Thanks. You got yourself a keeper!! ;)
Maybe I missed it but, when putting the piston ring tool on the piston, where is the oil lube?
Love the shows keep it up!
Question hope you can assist...I got a 350 from a buddy that says it's a 355 how can I tell ?
You'd have to pull the heads off to check if the pistons are stamped saying .30 over
On sbc 350
.30 over is 355 cubic inches
.60 over is 360 cubic inches
What do freeze plugs do ?
oSHOLLIVERo
They arent freeze plugs, they are welch plugs or expansion plugs used to fill the holes left after the casting process.
They were never meant to pop out if the engine freezes.
thats all wonderful but no plastagauge to check tolerance no oil on rings or wrist pins dont offset rear main i dont use that molly cam lobe grease on anything but cam lobes and i will never wear gloves while building a engine ya cant feel grit ol boy couldnt work at my shop i prime every engine built no lube under head bolts those two clean dry surfaces play hell with torque readings after torquin head and main bolts take a fat ass puntch and a 2 pound hammer and give the bolt heads a good wrap then re chech readings it just helps everyone kinda relax but hay i guess if ya trust everyone to do a perfect job everythings ok but i would rather know what my bearing tollerances are perfect world or not
Holy shit like you may have some good points in there but ever heard of punctuation?
After boring the block, has the displacement of the engine increased?
yeah, but very little lol
Great question!! Could we please get a rough idea!!
Are those main bearings used? They sure look it.
What about checking the nip @ crush on the bearings and the oil clearance?
Many people mention crush on the bearings.......And oil clearances. I am going to tell Ya-ll a little engine builder 'secret..............I buy dozens of quality tr-metal Clevite rod/main bearing sets,cams lifters, forged pistons sets. I measure all of them and hand fit selected parts from all the combined sets as sum total to the engine I am assembling. I do this for advantage of: slight manufacturer tolerance variations in mass production.
I continue "mix and match" until they no longer meet my criteria.
HINT [Some big name racing parts companies supply OEM too] And big name cam company's make 1000's of your favorite grinds ALL the time.
I have an engine with precision fit. A quality hand assembled piece requiring minimal balancing and[with all machine work according to my spec] for RPM and application I am building it for.
I do this for valve springs too. Straightness, seat pressure, installed height.
Beware of E-bay listings of "new" engine rod/main bearing sets or forged brand-X-pistons
Factory-sealed and unopened from manufacturer of engine parts, is much more meaningful compared to new" unused on Ebay.
[On disassemble most newbies fail to remember which rod or main cap goes on what.]
Who has "lack of knowledge"
graeme leigh There are potentially 100's+ who could view my comment. I warned of persons offering for sale precision bearings, piston rings or other engine components not in their original unopened packages. Legitimate products strive for proprietary packaging that evidences tampering unless of course It's a knockoff from Asia, with dedicated counterfeit artists doing their nasty work.
It was informative in intent graeme, not derogatory. Cheers.
Don't forget to stager the gaps on those rings!
This guy's sarcasm is on point.
Curious... who makes the shirt your wearing this video, and where can I get them. Thanks, Jim
Great video
I always soak my pistons with rings with motor oil before install
Thanks for the reply I ended up buying one from napa.
how much does it roughly cost to rebuild a 350 motor like that? new pistons, rings, valves, springs, etc.
Olivia is hilarious. Attractive, but hilarious.
Any body know what the name of those pistons are called? I know mahle but I cant find them anywhere and I think if someone knew what to look up that it would really help me find them.
What about the clearance on the crank?
Great Thanks for the info! R U located in Tennessee?
At 10:10 it looked like the top of the piston was pretty rough.
This is great!
Don't you have to use Plastigauge to measure the bearings and such?
How much would the entire top and bottom end rebuild cost?
Olivia, you had me at torque wrench!! I love you!!
Do you write a list of every tool you'll need in a comment? Also where do you buy the Mahle power kit from the actual Mahle website or some other outlet store?
Do they still make 350 blocks?
Yeah, aftermarket companies still produce them, but not GM.
is this meant to be episode 65?
Man I really miss this show.
It's still going on TV, www.motorz.tv, and Prime Video. Full episodes aren't on YT anymore. New C10 build episodes are on hold for the time being because of the pandemic, but we'll be back at some point :) Thanks for watching
thanks friend it is good
... with new complete motor rebuild except the heads , they LOOKED as if they had just came from the rebuild shop , why with only having less than 2000 miles and one oil change after break in oil and lube is motor burning oil , black , and smoke from exhaust ?? ..
.. I believe oil being black is from car running too lean ..
.. and to the bottom of the heads I only cleaned the up with 3m polishing discs because they looked like they were redone
... any help .. input . Im now missing car shows
Oil is supposed to be black, it means it's doing its job
why didn't they just strip the paint as part of the cleaning process back in Pamona??
Is there a company that will manufacture a block for you?
yeah just go to summit or world etc etc
@oSHOLLIVERo Yep. Another thing about them is the MAIN reason the holes are there are actually so when the block is casted, they can get the sand out. So they figured instead of welding the holes shut, they'd put plugs in case it freezes
nice one
Was that the old crank bearings he used? Looked like it it to me.
Olivia Korte (Motorz Girl) joined the cast with S05E02 (Machine Shop episode). You can see more at motorzgirl(dot)com or her Motorz Girl Facebook page.
In reply to Chevyman5436: And anyone else wishing to learn. The "Freeze plugs" are actually part of the engine block casting process from the sand mold This is where the molten iron is actually introduced and the "holes" are left over after casting. Solution: Drive a "welch" plug into it to seal the water jacket. If you wish you CAN run water in an engine: The downsides are: Water boils at 212 Fahrenheit. A mix of low mineral content water [distilled or deionized] and Glycol type low silica coolant increases the boiling point well above 212 and has additives to reduce corrosion. Frozen water DOES expand: Popping out the welch plugs because they ARE the weak point. If you have ever removed heads from an engine suffering extended abuse of no glycol coolant, expect the factory steel shim head gaskets to have rusted the heads and block together as a unit. Solution: Thor god of Thunder application with 4lb hammer and four foot length of 1-1/4" pipe. Just be very careful cursing the owner between hammer blows.
Thanks, professor.
No, 50/50 antifreeze still boils about 223F. It's the 16psi pressure that raises the boiling temp. That's why you don't remove the cap on a hot radiator, it will lose pressure and spray steam and boiling coolant everywhere.
Derek Sinz anti freeze raises the boiling point and lowers the freeze point. The pressure cap further raises the temp
How much did that machinist work cost?
Probably just as much as it would be to pay him and all these parts for a crate motor.. smh
Yea I would like to know too
Maybe 450$?
and never put engine rebuild lube on the end caps?
Why not use a set of $5 ring pliers?
the locks on the rods face to the outside of the block
quick question....how can you tell if its a 350 small block..??anyone....
+Fast Furious block casting numbers, 4"bore if its stock, 5.7 inch rods, and a 3.48 stroke. 327's have a 4 inch bore as well. so be careful to measure the stroke if your going off of bore diameter. Google is your friend.
cool vid
Good shows. They are right about safety goggles and would hate to get that wire size stuck in me. Had a fine wire wheel stick me in eye and if you ever saw "Clockwork Orange", that's the same apparatus used by doctor to hold your eyelids open while they pull wire out. Only enjoyable part was sweet heart nurse putting me in a headlock while doctor went to work. I was lucky and eye was OK afterward.
alot of builders say its good, which it is, but others say it isnt that accurate
@ 10:59 that bearing DOES NOT go on that rod end cap. Also to check crankshaft end play you need to use a dial gauge W/ magnetic base and two pry bars. And that's just for starters on what's going on WRONG HERE. ~V~ Obsession
Moron !! He's NOT building a Full on Race Engine !!!!!
Again - what about the other checks?
Olivia is smokin! She could assist me building my engine if she played her cards right :P
You’d have to play your cards right buddy
is 3,500 dollars a lot for a 355 install
I must have missed he part where they punched it 030 over.
2020
These types of bearings are very old.
Much better to integrate bearing to crank. 1 unit bolt in. Done.
9:44 I love this bluish coating on piston :-) quality!