I just changed mine - very easy job. Only sticking point was getting the two Torx screws out with very little clearance, but I managed to use a screwdriver T30 bit with a spanner. Mine had basically exploded, spring had come off its mountings. Door now closes a lot better in addition to actually staying open!
Thank you for this! I was trying to figure out what that part was. Mine doesn't have the grating sound, but it does seem to be wearing out and not holding at the "stops" very well. It's frustrating when trying to get out of the car and the door slams back on your foot.
I did the job today, I gave myself 2 hours after I had all the tools I needed laid out. I ordered the part from BMW about a week ago, I looked at it but I made the mistake of not checking everything out closely. After taking the door panel off, I removed the bolts from the door stop. It was a hard job, very tight and I had to use the T30 bit only with a crescent wrench on the bolts in the door, there was not enough room for ratchet on those bolts, but I did remove them fairly quickly. I weaseled the old door stop out and got the new one in, it was a bit of a chore. Then came the time consuming bummer, I could not seat the bolts on the door, I tried and tried but that was one of the most difficult positions I have ever worked in, no room , can't really see and hard to get a light in. I wasted over an hour trying, telling myself, come on, you can screw in a couple of bolts. I finally wised up and reluctantly pulled the door stop back out to see what was causing me so much difficulty. It turned out that there is a plate between the part and the door with holes (not threads) that the bolts go through, this probably for added strength. The plate was not aligned properly, and it would not allow me to thread the bolts into the part, that was the problem. So I got out a hammer and was able to move the plate enough to accept the bolts. Then I had to weasel the door stop back in and was able to get the bolts in and tight. It ended up taking me about 3 hours, and it was late and cold so I just covered my tools and will put them away tomorrow. I asked my mechanic about doing the job, he said it would probably take about an hour and a half, and at $140 per hour I decided to do the job myself. The main thing that I want to stress is, fully examine the part and test the bolts before installing it, I don't want to see anyone else go through what happened to me today.
With the video makes this a very easy job. 45 minutes. The 2 T-30 fasteners come out without having to remove the hard plastic trim around the door stop.
Integra DIY Yeah it's gotten SO much worse after this winter. It'd be about 1.5x what the car is worth to fix the rust though, so I'll drive it into the ground and scrap it before that probably.
was wondering if this is also a common problem on the coupe's? I have a 03 330Ci and I don't recall the previous owner saying he had a problem with it and I've had it almost half a year now and my door opens and closes quite quietly haha
Enjoyed the video, good work! Can I ask exactly what sealant you used on the vapor barrier? I've been using 3M window-weld and it has been failing on me and leaking after about 3-6 months.
All you had to do is warm up the sealant that was already on the door then work the vapour cover on it then some duck tape to cover any tears on the cover.BOOM
Hi Andy, How do you warm up the sealant? Is the vapour cover the sheet of plastic which covers all the holes in the door, and has the sealant around its edge? Thanks
I cannot believe there isn't a simpler fix to this thing than to replace the whole strap. I bet any car out there in the market could simply be fixed with lube/grease but no, not BMW.
I did not examine it closely. But after thousands of 'opens' I am sure that the hinge part just wears out and gets washed open to a larger bore. Which allows the moving part to vibrate at the frequency of the squeak. Grease, if applied to the right area, should work short term to silence it. But there will still be some slop.
The part is 50 bucks. It takes fifteen minutes to replace. What could be simpler? BMWs are well engineered, and to me this is just another example of that. Once the procedure is understood the repair can be made quickly and easily.
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I just changed mine - very easy job. Only sticking point was getting the two Torx screws out with very little clearance, but I managed to use a screwdriver T30 bit with a spanner.
Mine had basically exploded, spring had come off its mountings. Door now closes a lot better in addition to actually staying open!
Thank you! This really helped. Completed the repair in 45mins. No more noise!
I don't know if you still check these comments, but thanks for this - I did it today with this guide and completed it successfully
I do, and thank you for the kind words!
Thank you for posting this. I had a similar problem that this solved. Did it myself and saved cash. Thanks again.
Great video, huge pain snaking it back in on the coupe!
Excellent video for this repair. Just replaced the RHF here in Australia. I found the torx on the door was 27 on mine. Cheers
Beautiful car dude. I have the same problem and You helped me a lot. Now it will be much easier for me to do this, thanks to your video.
Thank you for this! I was trying to figure out what that part was. Mine doesn't have the grating sound, but it does seem to be wearing out and not holding at the "stops" very well. It's frustrating when trying to get out of the car and the door slams back on your foot.
I did the job today, I gave myself 2 hours after I had all the tools I needed laid out. I ordered the part from BMW about a week ago, I looked at it but I made the mistake of not checking everything out closely. After taking the door panel off, I removed the bolts from the door stop. It was a hard job, very tight and I had to use the T30 bit only with a crescent wrench on the bolts in the door, there was not enough room for ratchet on those bolts, but I did remove them fairly quickly.
I weaseled the old door stop out and got the new one in, it was a bit of a chore. Then came the time consuming bummer, I could not seat the bolts on the door, I tried and tried but that was one of the most difficult positions I have ever worked in, no room , can't really see and hard to get a light in. I wasted over an hour trying, telling myself, come on, you can screw in a couple of bolts.
I finally wised up and reluctantly pulled the door stop back out to see what was causing me so much difficulty. It turned out that there is a plate between the part and the door with holes (not threads) that the bolts go through, this probably for added strength. The plate was not aligned properly, and it would not allow me to thread the bolts into the part, that was the problem. So I got out a hammer and was able to move the plate enough to accept the bolts. Then I had to weasel the door stop back in and was able to get the bolts in and tight.
It ended up taking me about 3 hours, and it was late and cold so I just covered my tools and will put them away tomorrow.
I asked my mechanic about doing the job, he said it would probably take about an hour and a half, and at $140 per hour I decided to do the job myself.
The main thing that I want to stress is, fully examine the part and test the bolts before installing it, I don't want to see anyone else go through what happened to me today.
Thank you so much for your informative video I’m about to do my door brake or doorstop, it is immensely annoying also, thanks again.
Thanks! got it done in less than 15! Though, can't say I haven't taken these door panels off 43523 times prior.
Thank you, That was a very good tutorial.
With the video makes this a very easy job. 45 minutes. The 2 T-30 fasteners come out without having to remove the hard plastic trim around the door stop.
this is a sweet car, color combo is nice and this body style is great, but the rust kills the vibe of everything.
Integra DIY Yeah it's gotten SO much worse after this winter. It'd be about 1.5x what the car is worth to fix the rust though, so I'll drive it into the ground and scrap it before that probably.
Nice Clean Job !
was wondering if this is also a common problem on the coupe's? I have a 03 330Ci and I don't recall the previous owner saying he had a problem with it and I've had it almost half a year now and my door opens and closes quite quietly haha
THANK YOU
Enjoyed the video, good work! Can I ask exactly what sealant you used on the vapor barrier? I've been using 3M window-weld and it has been failing on me and leaking after about 3-6 months.
c0mputerwhiz1 It's just an automotive/marine all purpose weatherproof, waterproof sealant from Lowes.
Thanks, does it dry solid, or remain somewhat tacky like the OEM stuff so that the vapor barrier can be easily removed if need be?
c0mputerwhiz1 I'm not 100% sure. It's probably a bit tacky, but maybe not as much like tar as the OEM seal.
Cant u use old piece by repairing plastic part , My Master :-) I hv same problem in my car 2004 e46 320D ... Because new pc very expencive ..
The plastic on these generally degrades and becomes very soft/brittle. I don't believe a repair is possible.
@@E39Source ok thanks
Can the door stop be repaired somehow if it's not yet making horrible sounds like yours?
DashSVK Not that I know of actually. You might have better luck with lithium grease though.
***** Sounds good to me. I'll give it a try and I just saw the lithium grease at the supermarket...too bad I haven't read your comment sooner :)
Good job \o/
All you had to do is warm up the sealant that was already on the door then work the vapour cover on it then some duck tape to cover any tears on the cover.BOOM
Hi Andy,
How do you warm up the sealant?
Is the vapour cover the sheet of plastic which covers all the holes in the door, and has the sealant around its edge?
Thanks
You're good!
Do you remove window regulator module ?
No, I didn't need to. It's tricky to work around it, but possible.
Is there bolts inside door ?
Not for the door brake, they are located on the outside only.
How many bolts have door stopper ?
I think 3? Watch the video, everything is detailed.
Also, what color is this E46?? Topaz blue?
Nick Yes, Topaz!
Same color as my E46. Love it!
I need that exact part for my E34, anyone know the part number?
smashbash12341 Check Real OEM!
Yes. I also had to order this (Europe) the part number is 51 21 8 160 959
I cannot believe there isn't a simpler fix to this thing than to replace the whole strap. I bet any car out there in the market could simply be fixed with lube/grease but no, not BMW.
You probably COULD but that's a short-term half-ass repair.
I tried all kinds of lubes and no luck. What exactly makes the squeak - did you examine it when you removed the old one to see where the issue lies?
I did not examine it closely. But after thousands of 'opens' I am sure that the hinge part just wears out and gets washed open to a larger bore. Which allows the moving part to vibrate at the frequency of the squeak. Grease, if applied to the right area, should work short term to silence it. But there will still be some slop.
The part is 50 bucks. It takes fifteen minutes to replace. What could be simpler? BMWs are well engineered, and to me this is just another example of that. Once the procedure is understood the repair can be made quickly and easily.
@@erokbgordon On mine, the spring/catch mechanism broke after having it less than 4 years. Many of the common repair issues for the E46.