Video Tutorial series by Blue Oval Truck Parts: www.blueovaltru... This is a video tutorial on how to replace the distributer in your truck with Electronic Ignition.
I have been running pertronix in my 70 f250 reliably for 3 years. Starts up great every time, it's especially better starting during the winter. Also no adjustments needed.
1970 HB I replaced my points with the ignitor 2 although this guy says to leave in the condensor thing in the distributor ? My instructions says to remove them , I removed both the one in the distributor and the one that goes to the coil is that what you did ? ??? Also it said if you have a ballast resistor in the ignition system to remove it .... Is that under the dash somewhere ? I have not fired my engine yet it has been rebuilt .69 Ford f 250 C/S .....
hey me too, i plan to buy a 1977 chevy blazer in a few years and will be installing a breaker point ignition system in it(they wen't to electronic ignition in either 74' or 75' i think), as well removing all the smog equipment(im not in california so it will be perfectly legal)
Hello I'm Kevin from Malaysia , I'm using a Datsun B310 . Car starts perfect at times and dies within 20 minutes during idling . When it dies I'll need someone to crank while I knock the distributor and starts perfect . What could be the problem? Bearings in the distributor? Thank You
i can't get to my fuel pump, the electronic ignition is in the way. is it as easy as unscrewing all the screws around the EI? seems like the plate would remain and that would still be in my way =D 68 GMC p15 van, knuckle buster fix
Stripping those wires @ 10:20 over the caburetor isn't a real good idea! Cover the carburetor and keep foreign objects out of your engine or you will most likely have bigger problems than your ignition!
SUV man. .. really? Points and condenser over electronic ignition? The only reason ANYONE would prefer points over electronic ignition is not knowing how E.I. works and how to work on it. Points are the most unreliable, time consuming, performance robbing, waste of time, component you can have on any vehicle on the road today.
I've had Pertronic Ign. 3 times on my British car in the past 10yrs. Many of we club members have gone back to Points. The eccentric behavior ( primarily the timing ) of the Pertronic will make Ignition Points easier to live with.
I have a question and thank you for the video. Are there any gas savings from upgrading OEM distributor on a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor V8 5.0? Which systems would be more beneficial and less mechanically complicated for this goal? I've also heard of coil on plug systems. I'm a new virgin on an old scene and would appreciate any advice you can give thank you.
You really did manage to twist those spark plug wires into a mess when you put the distributor cap back on. I cringed and laughed at the same time. ha ha
I prefer to use standard automotive parts instead of these kits for many reasons a) these kits are not as reliabl as they say B) in a case of a breakdown, parts are not readily available C) it is almost impossible to have service on road in the event of a breakdown I by far prefer to build my system usint standard parts, in this case, the Ford Duraspark 2 is very easy to adapt, you can also use Chrysler reluctor and pick up coil with a Chrysler module or a GM HEI module these HEI modules are very reliable and dirt cheap.
I fear these kits because when they fail , unless you have on your hands the original breaker and condenser or a replacement module, you're stuck, I by far prefer adapting a current ignition system used by Chryler, Ford, GM or Bosch as reliability is there and replacement parts are readily available in about any autoparts. I had good results using complete system from Chrysler or Ford and using GM HEI module with about any magnetic pickup coil and about any HT coil used on inductive ignition system.
Jacques Poirier These kits are the only option to convert tractors. Unlike your auto...you die somewhere much closer to home. Also, it's not difficult to ziplock your points and toss them in your glove box in a pinch.
usually, tractors use distributors common to automobiles usually, Delco, Prestolite and so on, the majority of gas operated tractors are 4 cylinders and usually, the diameter of the distributor is close to old 6 or V8 so there is place to fit a Mopar reluctor ring and pick up coil I've done it on a cockshutt 30( 4 cyl Buda engine), a case 4 cyl engine and an inter 4 cyl engine, For these engines, I used a v8 chrysler reluctor and I removed 4 spikes from the reluctor leaving 4 spikes for firing the engine. the most difficult part of the work is to eliminate the points cam as this metal is hardened and very difficult to machine off with a lathe I grind off to a diameter close to the required diameter to remove the most hardened layer then finish it on a lathe with a carbide tool bit. the next difficult part is to align the high tension rotor to one of the cap tower then aligning a reluctor spike with the pick up coil pole and grinding the groove to recieve the locking pin. In one case, on a OMC 3.8 v6 marine engine, I had to order the fabrication of a reluctor as the firing sequence is 108-132 degrees ( odd fire)instead of 120-120degrees common to most 6 or v6 engines. The most difficult distributors to convert are small diameter european or asian distributors, in this situation, the best to do is to use newer distributors equipped with with a pick up coil and a reluctor or star wheel depending of the design. In all these cases, this approach is more complicated than using a kit but the reliability and the parts availability worth the effort invested. There is existing approachs using the existing points to trigger a HEI module but I fear them because they use generic resistors and a failure means you're stuck in the middle of nowhere. In any cases where the conversion have to go far on the road or on the sea, I suggest to have a spare distributor installed with fresh set of points and condenser ready ot take service
Most of my truck is original, however, I'm in favor of updating some things if they improve performance and reduce maintenance.. Especially since I'm not very knowledgeable in mechanical work. I'm doing great! This year's legislative session is coming to an end in a few weeks, so I'm thankful for that. How are you? Sorry I missed your call a week or two ago. Maybe this Sunday evening we can talk.
That's what I did to my truck, which is an 86 F250. It is now emissions exempt. And I am not in Kalifornia fortunately lol. I even found an exhaust shop with enough balls to build me an exhaust system with no catalytic converter. Engine is set up to run like an pre emissions engine, with the exception it still has the smog heads and low compression ratio. But if I ever become rich, that will change.
Yes it will run but you should have installed the condenser between the black line and the coil because it does have a purpose even though the car will run without it. Would you just remove your condenser while using points? The brain in this is just a magnet driven version of points. the condenser is there to protect the coil circuit from each tap of the connection which is happening in the magnetic brain and does reduce wear on the shaft. Unless there is a condeser in the brain. Note it.
This does not, then, replace the distributor, as the article suggests; it simply replaces the contact-breaker, or points. The distributor remains in place; it isn't replaced! Without doubt, the changes shown here are extremely beneficial. There are indeed ways, however, to completely replace the distributor; far more work involved, but there are a great many benefits, too.
Does anyone know what I would have to do to make the car start when you turn the key and let it go, my fathers truck starts by just turning the key and letting go, I would love to do this. Thanks
Smog heads are the junk emissions heads that were coupled up with all of the smog equipment. Big combustion chambers, small valves, crappy intake and exhaust ports.
Installing one of these on my 64 plymouth valiant slant 6 today. Different engine than yours but same principle.Seems simple enough. Thanks for the video.
I have been running pertronix in my 70 f250 reliably for 3 years. Starts up great every time, it's especially better starting during the winter. Also no adjustments needed.
1970 HB
I replaced my points with the ignitor 2 although this guy says to leave in the condensor thing in the distributor ? My instructions says to remove them , I removed both the one in the distributor and the one that goes to the coil is that what you did ? ??? Also it said if you have a ballast resistor in the ignition system to remove it .... Is that under the dash somewhere ? I have not fired my engine yet it has been rebuilt .69 Ford f 250 C/S .....
hey me too, i plan to buy a 1977 chevy blazer in a few years and will be installing a breaker point ignition system in it(they wen't to electronic ignition in either 74' or 75' i think), as well removing all the smog equipment(im not in california so it will be perfectly legal)
Ur replacing the internals.. The title is wrong
Awesome! Got this on our new 62 Mercury Meteor hot rod!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
How to convert old 2 point ignition coil into new 3 point ignitiin coil to be used as direct coil on plug . in new efi having pcm cars
No where does he mention timing verification either. This conversion WILL change the timing of the engine.
great vid, I've got a ford fairmont v8 302 5.0, do you know if there's a kit for my car?
fairmont is gonna have it anyway
Man I want to do the opposite conversion. I hate electronic ignition.
Hello I'm Kevin from Malaysia , I'm using a Datsun B310 . Car starts perfect at times and dies within 20 minutes during idling . When it dies I'll need someone to crank while I knock the distributor and starts perfect . What could be the problem? Bearings in the distributor? Thank You
i can't get to my fuel pump, the electronic ignition is in the way. is it as easy as unscrewing all the screws around the EI? seems like the plate would remain and that would still be in my way =D 68 GMC p15 van, knuckle buster fix
Your title is misleading you are not replacing a distributor,you are replace internals of a. distributer
Stripping those wires @ 10:20 over the caburetor isn't a real good idea! Cover the carburetor and keep foreign objects out of your engine or you will most likely have bigger problems than your ignition!
SUV man. .. really? Points and condenser over electronic ignition? The only reason ANYONE would prefer points over electronic ignition is not knowing how E.I. works and how to work on it. Points are the most unreliable, time consuming, performance robbing, waste of time, component you can have on any vehicle on the road today.
I've had Pertronic Ign. 3 times on my British car in the past 10yrs. Many of we club members have gone back to Points. The eccentric behavior ( primarily the timing ) of the Pertronic will make Ignition Points easier to live with.
I have a question and thank you for the video. Are there any gas savings from upgrading OEM distributor on a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor V8 5.0?
Which systems would be more beneficial and less mechanically complicated for this goal?
I've also heard of coil on plug systems. I'm a new virgin on an old scene and would appreciate any advice you can give thank you.
You really did manage to twist those spark plug wires into a mess when you put the distributor cap back on. I cringed and laughed at the same time. ha ha
I prefer to use standard automotive parts instead of these kits for many reasons
a) these kits are not as reliabl as they say
B) in a case of a breakdown, parts are not readily available
C) it is almost impossible to have service on road in the event of a breakdown
I by far prefer to build my system usint standard parts, in this case, the Ford Duraspark 2 is very easy to adapt, you can also use Chrysler reluctor and pick up coil with a Chrysler module or a GM HEI module
these HEI modules are very reliable and dirt cheap.
The distributor is quite clearly still being used. This is not electronic ignition in any way. Where is the amplifier box.
what about the 1973 307 Turbo Fire small block Chevelle Malibu's ignition points condensor
I fear these kits because when they fail , unless you have on your hands the original breaker and condenser or a replacement module, you're stuck, I by far prefer adapting a current ignition system used by Chryler, Ford, GM or Bosch as reliability is there and replacement parts are readily available in about any autoparts.
I had good results using complete system from Chrysler or Ford and using GM HEI module with about any magnetic pickup coil and about any HT coil used on inductive ignition system.
Jacques Poirier These kits are the only option to convert tractors. Unlike your auto...you die somewhere much closer to home. Also, it's not difficult to ziplock your points and toss them in your glove box in a pinch.
usually, tractors use distributors common to automobiles usually, Delco, Prestolite and so on, the majority of gas operated tractors are 4 cylinders and usually, the diameter of the distributor is close to old 6 or V8 so there is place to fit a Mopar reluctor ring and pick up coil
I've done it on a cockshutt 30( 4 cyl Buda engine), a case 4 cyl engine and an inter 4 cyl engine, For these engines, I used a v8 chrysler reluctor and I removed 4 spikes from the reluctor leaving 4 spikes for firing the engine.
the most difficult part of the work is to eliminate the points cam as this metal is hardened and very difficult to machine off with a lathe
I grind off to a diameter close to the required diameter to remove the most hardened layer then finish it on a lathe with a carbide tool bit.
the next difficult part is to align the high tension rotor to one of the cap tower then aligning a reluctor spike with the pick up coil pole and grinding the groove to recieve the locking pin.
In one case, on a OMC 3.8 v6 marine engine, I had to order the fabrication of a reluctor as the firing sequence is 108-132 degrees ( odd fire)instead of 120-120degrees common to most 6 or v6 engines.
The most difficult distributors to convert are small diameter european or asian distributors, in this situation, the best to do is to use newer distributors equipped with with a pick up coil and a reluctor or star wheel depending of the design.
In all these cases, this approach is more complicated than using a kit but the reliability and the parts availability worth the effort invested.
There is existing approachs using the existing points to trigger a HEI module but I fear them because they use generic resistors and a failure means you're stuck in the middle of nowhere.
In any cases where the conversion have to go far on the road or on the sea, I suggest to have a spare distributor installed with fresh set of points and condenser ready ot take service
sure... bet it started right up? hmmm... runs soo good i couldnt even hear it!! lol
Hello my friend , were i can buy this item???
Hate electronic ignition? I'm not much of a gear head, but why is a points system better? Thinking about doing this on my '72 F100 w/360.
Most of my truck is original, however, I'm in favor of updating some things if they improve performance and reduce maintenance.. Especially since I'm not very knowledgeable in mechanical work.
I'm doing great! This year's legislative session is coming to an end in a few weeks, so I'm thankful for that. How are you? Sorry I missed your call a week or two ago. Maybe this Sunday evening we can talk.
photography of the mechanics hands is not useful when matched to the narrative.
You forgot to install the ignition wire on the coil.
From where buy it
That's what I did to my truck, which is an 86 F250. It is now emissions exempt. And I am not in Kalifornia fortunately lol. I even found an exhaust shop with enough balls to build me an exhaust system with no catalytic converter. Engine is set up to run like an pre emissions engine, with the exception it still has the smog heads and low compression ratio. But if I ever become rich, that will change.
Yes it will run but you should have installed the condenser between the black line and the coil because it does have a purpose even though the car will run without it. Would you just remove your condenser while using points? The brain in this is just a magnet driven version of points. the condenser is there to protect the coil circuit from each tap of the connection which is happening in the magnetic brain and does reduce wear on the shaft. Unless there is a condeser in the brain. Note it.
This does not, then, replace the distributor, as the article suggests; it simply replaces the contact-breaker, or points. The distributor remains in place; it isn't replaced!
Without doubt, the changes shown here are extremely beneficial. There are indeed ways, however, to completely replace the distributor; far more work involved, but there are a great many benefits, too.
Necesita dar avance de encendido o lo hace solo
I want to change my Vans platnam system to Cdi system..is it ok..
Does anyone know what I would have to do to make the car start when you turn the key and let it go, my fathers truck starts by just turning the key and letting go, I would love to do this.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Thumbs up! (But you really do need to 're-check' initial timing) :)
Smog heads are the junk emissions heads that were coupled up with all of the smog equipment. Big combustion chambers, small valves, crappy intake and exhaust ports.
WOW ! EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW !!! 😀😀😀😀
what happened to the condenser you didn't leave in like you said.
Installing one of these on my 64 plymouth valiant slant 6 today. Different engine than yours but same principle.Seems simple enough. Thanks for the video.
i don't know why anyone would do this, i hate electronic ignition!
Damn NOT HD, but really helpful guys, thanks for doing this, I really appreciate all you hard work filming all this...
Hi their, where do you get the electronic ignition, where can I buy it. thank you.
Can someone tell me how to do wiring for a Dodge Cordova 400
cool, btw i decided to buy a 76 blazer instead lol, what are smog heads?
Can you hook up a msd box to this kit?
is it compatible with toyota 2r ,thanks
I hate crimping tools..solder man!
oops............make that blunder @ 8:17
is there a video I can watch
Great Vid. Thanks :)
แปผะสาให้ดวย้
your hands were covering up (masking) your removing all of the origonal components. Didn't learn a thing. I didn't watch any more.
buen video
Pertronix are junk, keep your points!
Todd Atkinson,Hey man, I would recommend Mallory MSD IGNITION SYSTEMS