@@Hardworkandrealestateprofits Very well as far as the pitch, but I brushed the first section when the concrete was a bit too wet and it left a rough texture. The rest was perfect.
I deliver concrete in Ireland and enjoy seeing what goes on after I normally leave. Your videos have educated me in something I do multiple times a day. Thanks.
This video showed me what I wanted to know when making a sloped apron going to my metal building. So the slump is the key factor in keeping the concrete from sagging towards the low-sloped end. Thanks for explaining about slump. My take-away is that the higher the slump number, the more water is in the concrete mix; the lower the slump number, the lesser amount of water in the concrete mix. Your 3-to-4 slump seemed to hold well without much sagging. Thanks and have a Merry Christmas. 👍🏽🤠 12/21/23 🎅🎄
Another excellent talk thru,.......not all projects are flat or easy, most aren`t unless they are new.....there is always something to consider/work around match up with, even in carpentry.
You know, I see a lot of things on UA-cam where someone from another part of the country (or world) does something completely different from me. Not this time. This is exactly how I would have done this job, from the forms to the finish. Good job here.
Amazing work Mike and crew. Love the effort you go to explaining the process and the challenges. I am hooked on your videos. Thanks for sharing. Watching from Melbourne, Australia.
For this slope you are pouring far to thin. You need a 4 slump MAX. This looks more like 5.5 or 6. Also, you can change your work load by adding Plastic (Water Reducing Agent) to a 3 slump and you will find it FAR easier.
but what's the problem you're trying to solve? it didn't seem like they were having difficulties working with it, and a higher slump should mean more concrete for the buck
@@MikeDayConcrete How many years have you worked in work like this sir? I ask because I want to learn, as of rn I have learned how to lay brick, block and stone from my father. I been in the masonry business for 14 years and I'm about to be 23.
@@joelmatus9442 Wow ! You are ready to have your own business then! get started with that and keep on learning about Concrete. You are so lucky to have a father that taught you a business skill. Also you need to learn how to price a job, how to treat people and how to run the business basics. BIG TIP! Always call back when you say you will, and always do what you say you will...and never be a jerk...is a habit that will pay you back tenfold... people will love you and will refer you to everyone they know, because you then are a man of his word. PRICELESS!
Fantastic job! Watching from California, doing work on personal house project, working with a sloped backyard. Great tips, I really appreciate the video.
! We call those knee boards "sliders" !! I had a similar job ,doing a driveway 14 ft wide all up hill about 100 ft long it was pretty steep felt like I was going to fall face first into the concrete while striking it off ,,,,when your 6ft6 and bent over ,,,at one point I had a guy holding on to my belt to keep me from falling forward !!!
You ALSO want to screed the pour in a UP HILL motion. YOu are doing it perpendicular to the form. CHANGE that to screed up hill and it will also work better.
🎉 Congratulations Mike! Just noticed you’re over the 80K subs mark. Nice job! Can’t you turn the skids perpendicular to the slope to keep from sliding back down hill? Like you would do on snow skis.
I have a side yard with a slope like that. From my house foundation to street fence is 16 ft and is about 60ft long (about 960 sq feet on the side yard space)....still trying to figure out how to make the space as flat as possible so we can use it. the rest of my yard is pretty flat but is just the last 16ft where it starts to drop down towards the street fence.. I live in the city on a corner lot. I don't know if I should take out dirt from the high end to level it out. If I do it this way that piece of land will be below home foundation and my porch. If done this way I probably have to build one or 2 steps to step down from porch to that area ...Another solution will be to fill in the low end with dirt to level it out but then all my neighbors from outside will still be able to see inside my yard since the rest of the yard sits high. I guess I can always put lattice or something for privacy..Another solution I was thinking was to use the same dirt from high end and reuse it for low end and this way my step down won be as deep as if I just take out dirt from high end without adding it to low end.. Today I got a string and run it from porch foundation to the fence where it slopes..I measured from fence foundation (low end) up to the string and it measured a little bit more than 2 feet. so I guess thats how much dirt they will need to add there along fence to level it out if I do it this way...How much slope/pitch should we live so it can be an usable space, for a fire pit with chairs, maybe use it for a basketball hoop..I just wanna be able to use space.
Thank you so much for sharing your skills and expertise. I was just wandering about my driveway project. It is a very steep slop.i want to remove the existing asphalt and replace it with concrete. It is a 75' long X 22' wide and the slop is about 30°.
I have a section of walkway to complete & I am mixing concrete as I go, been doing it in 8' sections but I have about a 15' area to pour/finish that is much steeper that the rest of the project. After watching this video I guess I should mix dryer & start at the bottom when pouring instead of the top ?? I'm doing this by myself, should I pour in smaller increments to keep from sagging ??
Should have started pouring at the top. Also that was wetter than I would have poured and the guy on the strikeoff on the bottom should have stayed about ten inches ahead of the guy on the top. Also wood kneeboards rather than sliders for finishing that. Wood kneeboards that are used everyday can bite on that and notcslide so bad. But those are the kinds of things you only know if you do it on a daily basis. Good video
A strategy is to get a mag float on a pole An Kareem up the Center and have a guy on the knee boards cream up and Seal up the edges along the wall. What do you think?
You only need 1/4 inch of fall every 4 feet,, could be a hazard with ice or rain, I would of suggested replacing the existing concrete and lowering the slab against the existing structure, or raising the the end of the pad and leaving face so it wouldn't of been such an extreme drop.
Why is the base board all unlevel? Ild be pissed if it wasnt level that base board is wavey? That normal? Lookin to do my driveway but seeing this i know what not to do ty for the video
Concrete Professional and mind reader! Mike I have this exact same situation. I'm a do-it-yourselfer homeowner. I need to do my first driveway poor very much like this. Thank you! I just didn't know the slump number I'll go with a 4. I'm going to broom finish it as well but I'm going to go horizontal 90° from what you all did. I want the broom stripes to help with gripping if that makes sense. Looking for better traction up and down the driveway. What is the timing on when to apply the broom? This is where you Pros really know your stuff. It's reading the concrete and when to time the bull float, magging and broom finish. I see edging is at the end I can figure that out.
Shouldn’t a expansion joint have been used in between the building and new concrete? Also between the existing and new concrete? To prevent issues when freezes occur? I’m no expert....just wondering?
Question for you. I just poured a driveway on a slope. Thanks for video. I ordered 4 slump. It was very dry and stacked uo in the cement truck. The driver had to get up there and break it loose. Should that have been my responsibility? When do I take control of the mix. When it hits the ground? Should I have tipped the driver?
Quick question and most likely a stupid one about concrete leveling itself I have dug footings that are not level at the bottom.. I’m talking 7” over 21 ft. Planning on filling about 3/4 of the way to grade. Will the cured concrete itself be level? All logic tells me yes but I’m terrified to waste a ton of money on this
Hello Mike, thanks for your great videos. I'm about to pour a slab for a tennis court, it needs a gradient both ways ie 1.25% grade on a diagonal. So top left would be 0, top right 3inches, bottom left 13.5inches and bottom right 16.5 inches; how would you mark out the slab height in the middle of the slab (the formwork will obviously take care of the sides). Thanks again.
You pound dowel pins (short pieces of rebar) in at intervals and hammer them down to the height you want the surface to be. Then when pouring the concrete move the concrete right up even with the top of the pin and make a flat pad there with your mag. Then pound the rebar pin down under the concrete with a hammer. Mark the pad with an "x" so you know it's your level.
The welded wire fabric reinforcement is pulled up to the middle of the concrete, but then it gets walked on everywhere and pushed back to the ground; what is the purpose of the wwf if it is not embedded?
Where are the steel chairs that should be tied in under the steel mesh to keep it suspended in the concrete slab, pulling it up with a piece of steel rod and then standing all over it when laying the concrete would be classed as a cowboy job if l installed a slab like that
In my world it's a 1 to 10. That's between me and the mixer driver. The video isn't about testing concrete. It's to tell the mixer driver how dry or wet I want the concrete.
@@MikeDayConcrete Ok... I was just explaining for people who don't know what a slump is. I wasn't talking about testing concrete either. A slump is always measured in inches. Im not trying to be a smartass. Im just explaining for people who don't know. They watch your videos to learn. (Rightfully so, your videos are well done and you do good work) That's all.
You're right, thanks. I should make a video of a tester doing a slump test next time I have to have my concrete tested. That might be interesting to some subscribers.
Assume 1-10 is the number of inches the slump will go down if tested. There is multiple ways of testing, measuring the spread will return other results.
sounds like a great idea until the thaw /freeze cycle in winter happens then the homeoners will be falling and busting their ass 1" drop in 4' is more than adequate for drainage ......homeowners just dont know
1” in 4’ isn’t very much, but it’ll drain ok most of the time. ⅝” per foot or 1:20 is max according to ADA code. You can get away with 1:12 provided you have hand railing on each side.
@@psidvicious ive been building homes in alaska for 25+ years so im well aware of building code thanks for your input most folks dont know and the average homeowner is uneducated there should be required education before they commit to the most expensive and most important decision of their lives (besides having children)
@@ak420dave7 I said 1” in 4’ will drain. You say everyone should have ‘required education’ on this stuff but you get defensive if someone includes some info on allowable slopes? Lighten up man.
@@psidvicious thats the trouble with this kind of interaction with folks theres no way for me to convey opinions that would be taken positively with one on one personal conversation i didnt intend to be defensive only stated my experience no disrespect intended
You’ve given this retired pipefitter enough information to do our pitched slab job at our compound. Thanks for your help brother!👍👍👍
How did it turn out?
@@Hardworkandrealestateprofits Very well as far as the pitch, but I brushed the first section when the concrete was a bit too wet and it left a rough texture. The rest was perfect.
@@vanmann8347 Thank you for the reply. Yes I have done the same thing before but it will still last for decades.
I deliver concrete in Ireland and enjoy seeing what goes on after I normally leave. Your videos have educated me in something I do multiple times a day. Thanks.
Glad I can help!
Greetings from ohio USA. You truck drivers are hero's to us finishers. Thank you
County Meath here. Can I have some? I need to do this 😂
“If the concrete wants to keep sagging, it makes the job a little bit harder.” Cool understatement.
This video showed me what I wanted to know when making a sloped apron going to my metal building. So the slump is the key factor in keeping the concrete from sagging towards the low-sloped end. Thanks for explaining about slump. My take-away is that the higher the slump number, the more water is in the concrete mix; the lower the slump number, the lesser amount of water in the concrete mix. Your 3-to-4 slump seemed to hold well without much sagging. Thanks and have a Merry Christmas. 👍🏽🤠 12/21/23 🎅🎄
Another excellent talk thru,.......not all projects are flat or easy, most aren`t unless they are new.....there is always something to consider/work around match up with, even in carpentry.
Thanks!
Most people don’t know how much upper body strength you have to put out on skates. Good video mike
Thanks!
A true professional makes it look easy. 👍 Job well done Day Crew.
Thank you!
This is the answer that I've looking for. Thanks Mike!
I pour most flat work at 4" slump I just did a "ramp" that dropped 28" in 5' used a 2" slump worked hard that day
Perfect. Thanks. I am doing a slightly sloping parking space at the side of my drive. This gave me loads of tips
Mike. Like I have said before u r the best. There is no body better. U r the best.
You know, I see a lot of things on UA-cam where someone from another part of the country (or world) does something completely different from me.
Not this time. This is exactly how I would have done this job, from the forms to the finish. Good job here.
Amazing work Mike and crew. Love the effort you go to explaining the process and the challenges. I am hooked on your videos. Thanks for sharing. Watching from Melbourne, Australia.
Thank you!
That would definitely be a job for knee boards instead of skid pans. Then you wouldn't slip down the slope. Skid pans are more for bigger flat pours.
For this slope you are pouring far to thin. You need a 4 slump MAX. This looks more like 5.5 or 6. Also, you can change your work load by adding Plastic (Water Reducing Agent) to a 3 slump and you will find it FAR easier.
Bill > Thanks for the great tip.
but what's the problem you're trying to solve? it didn't seem like they were having difficulties working with it, and a higher slump should mean more concrete for the buck
Awesome! My teenage son and I watched this out of curiosity how cement is poured uphill. Looks great! But now we want to see the finished product. :-)
Wow. Made it look easy
To do this right you need a lot of experience which these guys have, nice work 👍
Thank you!
@@MikeDayConcrete How many years have you worked in work like this sir? I ask because I want to learn, as of rn I have learned how to lay brick, block and stone from my father. I been in the masonry business for 14 years and I'm about to be 23.
@@joelmatus9442 Wow ! You are ready to have your own business then! get started with that and keep on learning about Concrete. You are so lucky to have a father that taught you a business skill. Also you need to learn how to price a job, how to treat people and how to run the business basics. BIG TIP! Always call back when you say you will, and always do what you say you will...and never be a jerk...is a habit that will pay you back tenfold... people will love you and will refer you to everyone they know, because you then are a man of his word. PRICELESS!
That part of the knee boards was funny, great video, thanks!
My uncle that's all he did for his life he was a masonry but the Lord called him because he needed a masonry up there in heaven
I like using 3 inch styrofoam pieces for my knee boards I weigh about 250 pounds. For lighter guys knee boards probably work well.
I use the same thing!!! They work great
Great job on a tough slope, from NC keep it up.
Thanks 👍
Greetings...enjoy watching your channel Mike. I enjoy your narrative and as always, very informative. Cheers from Australia.
Fantastic job! Watching from California, doing work on personal house project, working with a sloped backyard. Great tips, I really appreciate the video.
Very nice job on a difficult pour !
Thank you very much!
Tia's a pro now. Better watch out she might open her own company
She has learned a lot!
Gidday Mike from Australia. Another great video..
Thanks!
hopefully see you next spring when i build my house there
Yet another great video from Mike Day!
Thank you Steven!
You guys really earn your money. Great vid.
! We call those knee boards "sliders" !! I had a similar job ,doing a driveway 14 ft wide all up hill about 100 ft long it was pretty steep felt like I was going to fall face first into the concrete while striking it off ,,,,when your 6ft6 and bent over ,,,at one point I had a guy holding on to my belt to keep me from falling forward !!!
LOL... sounds like fun!
Excellent work like all those we have seen until today, greetings from San Felipe Chile a hug
Thank you!
Amazing job really enjoy the video hard work and attention to detail describes Mike and his crew.
Put a strip of duct tape on the width of your slider,it makes a difference,it’ll keep the slider from slipping down the slope.
You ALSO want to screed the pour in a UP HILL motion. YOu are doing it perpendicular to the form. CHANGE that to screed up hill and it will also work better.
Bill > Another great tip! Thanks.
I have been watching a lot of your videos I've been trying to learn how to do concrete
Awesome!
Nothing to but to do it. Come on back
Thanks for the info. I have about the same thing I want to do, but only 10' wide X 10' long. Think I'll get a pro.
No problem!
If you have some previous experience, you could do 10x10 pad yourself.
Nice vid 👍👍
Thanks!
in New Zealand this would be the least sloped driveway in the country. Was hoping to find some info how to make something that's actually sloped
Wow nice concrete slop
🎉 Congratulations Mike! Just noticed you’re over the 80K subs mark. Nice job!
Can’t you turn the skids perpendicular to the slope to keep from sliding back down hill? Like you would do on snow skis.
Amazing job my friend! Thank you for sharing!
Niceee 👍🏻 idk the way you do it seems easier then the way me and the crew do it out here in Florida 🔥
I have a side yard with a slope like that. From my house foundation to street fence is 16 ft and is about 60ft long (about 960 sq feet on the side yard space)....still trying to figure out how to make the space as flat as possible so we can use it. the rest of my yard is pretty flat but is just the last 16ft where it starts to drop down towards the street fence..
I live in the city on a corner lot. I don't know if I should take out dirt from the high end to level it out. If I do it this way that piece of land will be below home foundation and my porch. If done this way I probably have to build one or 2 steps to step down from porch to that area ...Another solution will be to fill in the low end with dirt to level it out but then all my neighbors from outside will still be able to see inside my yard since the rest of the yard sits high. I guess I can always put lattice or something for privacy..Another solution I was thinking was to use the same dirt from high end and reuse it for low end and this way my step down won be as deep as if I just take out dirt from high end without adding it to low end..
Today I got a string and run it from porch foundation to the fence where it slopes..I measured from fence foundation (low end) up to the string and it measured a little bit more than 2 feet. so I guess thats how much dirt they will need to add there along fence to level it out if I do it this way...How much slope/pitch should we live so it can be an usable space, for a fire pit with chairs, maybe use it for a basketball hoop..I just wanna be able to use space.
Thank you so much for sharing your skills and expertise. I was just wandering about my driveway project. It is a very steep slop.i want to remove the existing asphalt and replace it with concrete. It is a 75' long X 22' wide and the slop is about 30°.
That's great honest work
Very informative. Thanks
thanks bruh..love from Malaysia
Great video, thanks!
Great job! Thank you for sharing!
How come you didn't put spacers on your mesh so that it doesn't stick to your liner?
I have a section of walkway to complete & I am mixing concrete as I go, been doing it in 8' sections but I have about a 15' area to pour/finish that is much steeper that the rest of the project.
After watching this video I guess I should mix dryer & start at the bottom when pouring instead of the top ?? I'm doing this by myself, should I pour in smaller increments to keep from sagging ??
Should have started pouring at the top. Also that was wetter than I would have poured and the guy on the strikeoff on the bottom should have stayed about ten inches ahead of the guy on the top. Also wood kneeboards rather than sliders for finishing that. Wood kneeboards that are used everyday can bite on that and notcslide so bad. But those are the kinds of things you only know if you do it on a daily basis. Good video
Yea, this is my first time???
Pat V > Great tip ! Thank you!
Master's at work
A strategy is to get a mag float on a pole An Kareem up the Center and have a guy on the knee boards cream up and Seal up the edges along the wall. What do you think?
Was wondering if you need control joints on a ramp with this type of slope?
Mike this is tim from Ohio can u show me how to put lines on a drive way that is. 3 cars long. From the side walk to the house. Please
Thanks for the great vid its very helpful
You only need 1/4 inch of fall every 4 feet,, could be a hazard with ice or rain, I would of suggested replacing the existing concrete and lowering the slab against the existing structure, or raising the the end of the pad and leaving face so it wouldn't of been such an extreme drop.
Love your videos, how would I calculate yrd on a slab that's going from 4"- 14" in a 19' span ?
Why is the base board all unlevel? Ild be pissed if it wasnt level that base board is wavey? That normal? Lookin to do my driveway but seeing this i know what not to do ty for the video
Thank you for the video
I'm subbed.
Question when doing a ramp at that slope it's doesn't move?
Love it thanks for not pitching all the courses lol
Why did you not do the finishing bull float on your knees *perpendicular* to the slope instead of parallel?
the most important aspect you did not show..... how did you formulate the slope ?????? help somebody !!!!!!
When making a slope are you just sloping the frame at a angle or are you sloping the base itself?
What about control joints? Or did you saw cut them in after? Or Can you tell me why in this case you didn’t use any
BuildboyZ96 > Good Point!
Brilliant
Question, was there any divides to account for expansion or anything? If not, when is it needed/not needed?
You need plastic sliders for the steep jobs it’s easier on your arms and legs
How long did you let it cure before you were able to put your body weight on it to mag it? Great work thanks in advance
Guy on the low side goes first and also they should be pulling it slightly upward as they pull back
Concrete Professional and mind reader! Mike I have this exact same situation. I'm a do-it-yourselfer homeowner. I need to do my first driveway poor very much like this. Thank you! I just didn't know the slump number I'll go with a 4. I'm going to broom finish it as well but I'm going to go horizontal 90° from what you all did. I want the broom stripes to help with gripping if that makes sense. Looking for better traction up and down the driveway.
What is the timing on when to apply the broom? This is where you Pros really know your stuff. It's reading the concrete and when to time the bull float, magging and broom finish. I see edging is at the end I can figure that out.
Timing is the most important part of finishing concrete. Nothing to it but to do it
Shouldn’t a expansion joint have been used in between the building and new concrete? Also between the existing and new concrete? To prevent issues when freezes occur? I’m no expert....just wondering?
I agree! No expert here either, but if it was my building I'd like to have that.
Can anyone who knows and reads this, please answer this question?
Ok I Nd to c how u set the forms to even start so I know how to mold it. U know the formation. Gud job
Question for you. I just poured a driveway on a slope. Thanks for video. I ordered 4 slump. It was very dry and stacked uo in the cement truck. The driver had to get up there and break it loose. Should that have been my responsibility? When do I take control of the mix. When it hits the ground? Should I have tipped the driver?
Was hoping he would explain how to check the slump.
Is the skid that you use. Is it a. 2x4 wood. ?
New subscriber
thank you
Always screed and tamp uphill
Quick question and most likely a stupid one about concrete leveling itself
I have dug footings that are not level at the bottom.. I’m talking 7” over 21 ft. Planning on filling about 3/4 of the way to grade. Will the cured concrete itself be level? All logic tells me yes but I’m terrified to waste a ton of money on this
Mike how long do you wait before you start the initial bull floating and how long to finish it with the skates?
Any tips on how to get a plate compactor to work on a steep slope?
What is the purpose of using the magnesium trowel as apposed to a regular trowel??
I always wondered how it doesn't just flow over
How much does a job like this cost?
Hello, why do you put thermal isolation under the concrete?
gearstill > Good Question! I am wondering the same thing. Anyone who knows can you please answer this question?
Control joints?
Anything under 3 slump it would not come out of the shoot! Why not start back from the wall line?! Any way good job!
No expansion joints/lines?
Hello Mike, thanks for your great videos. I'm about to pour a slab for a tennis court, it needs a gradient both ways ie 1.25% grade on a diagonal. So top left would be 0, top right 3inches, bottom left 13.5inches and bottom right 16.5 inches; how would you mark out the slab height in the middle of the slab (the formwork will obviously take care of the sides). Thanks again.
You pound dowel pins (short pieces of rebar) in at intervals and hammer them down to the height you want the surface to be. Then when pouring the concrete move the concrete right up even with the top of the pin and make a flat pad there with your mag. Then pound the rebar pin down under the concrete with a hammer. Mark the pad with an "x" so you know it's your level.
How long did you wait until you broom finished?
do you not need rebar for this?
On broom finish do you just float or do you also trowel the slab
The welded wire fabric reinforcement is pulled up to the middle of the concrete, but then it gets walked on everywhere and pushed back to the ground; what is the purpose of the wwf if it is not embedded?
Where are the steel chairs that should be tied in under the steel mesh to keep it suspended in the concrete slab, pulling it up with a piece of steel rod and then standing all over it when laying the concrete would be classed as a cowboy job if l installed a slab like that
david vanhinsbergh > Yeah, true - that's what my dad would call a "chapusa" ... LOL
Dam thats alot of fall
The slump number determines how many inches it will spread out when you lift a slump tester lol. Its not just a 1to10 like you explained it
In my world it's a 1 to 10. That's between me and the mixer driver. The video isn't about testing concrete. It's to tell the mixer driver how dry or wet I want the concrete.
@@MikeDayConcrete Ok... I was just explaining for people who don't know what a slump is. I wasn't talking about testing concrete either. A slump is always measured in inches. Im not trying to be a smartass. Im just explaining for people who don't know. They watch your videos to learn. (Rightfully so, your videos are well done and you do good work) That's all.
You're right, thanks. I should make a video of a tester doing a slump test next time I have to have my concrete tested. That might be interesting to some subscribers.
Assume 1-10 is the number of inches the slump will go down if tested. There is multiple ways of testing, measuring the spread will return other results.
sounds like a great idea until the thaw /freeze cycle in winter happens then the homeoners will be falling and busting their ass 1" drop in 4' is more than adequate for drainage ......homeowners just dont know
1” in 4’ isn’t very much, but it’ll drain ok most of the time. ⅝” per foot or 1:20 is max according to ADA code. You can get away with 1:12 provided you have hand railing on each side.
@@psidvicious ive been building homes in alaska for 25+ years so im well aware of building code thanks for your input most folks dont know and the average homeowner is uneducated there should be required education before they commit to the most expensive and most important decision of their lives (besides having children)
@@ak420dave7 I said 1” in 4’ will drain.
You say everyone should have ‘required education’ on this stuff but you get defensive if someone includes some info on allowable slopes? Lighten up man.
@@psidvicious thats the trouble with this kind of interaction with folks theres no way for me to convey opinions that would be taken positively with one on one personal conversation i didnt intend to be defensive only stated my experience no disrespect intended
@@ak420dave7 Agreed.