This series is just what I had been looking for to finally _get_ grisaille! Thanks! I like the painting, though it also creeps me out a bit. It's like at any given moment a ghostly figure could come out of the house, telling me all the mistakes I made in life (or something). I love your accent! I hope you get around to doing more videos at some point.
Hi Susan, That makes me smile! Thank you for your note. I’m glad you found something that was of use to you in your own work. If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com. It would be fun to paint with you
Don't know if you're still out there but thanks just started with watercolour and charcoal and some oil pastels., a bit nervous about oils for some reason but this is the trigger. Very grateful.
Thank you so much for your note. I appreciate you taking the time. I hope you found something of value. If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com. It would be fun to paint with you
Thank you so much for the comment. Glad you liked it and found something of value. I completely understand the fear component. It’s not often talked about in art schools but the phenomenon of fear with painting exists. There is an excellent exercise that you can do to combat the fear. I will add that this fear can prevent you from doing your best work. Fear tightens you up. Self-expression comes more naturally when you are free of the burden of fear. You are a loser by virtue of being OK with failing. Failure is part of success. In any case, try this exercise. Using an 11 x 14“ canvas, draw a line down the middle vertically in another line down the middle horizontally, thereby making for equal rectangles. Instead of doing one painting, do four of them. It’s called abundance mentality. As soon as you quarter your canvas, your brain is relieved of the burden of putting your painting on a pedestal and demanding perfection from yourself. Your brain now perceives the quartered canvas As an exercise. This is freedom. Freedom equals expression. Good luck and happy painting to you my friend.
Hi Harriet, Thank you so much for your sweet note and for taking the time to do so. I’m glad you got something of value out of this. If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com. It would be fun to paint with you.
Hi Jeff, Thank you for watching my videos and checking in with your comment. Yes! You are correct. I just started using one with my plein air paintings. It’s a very useful alternative. Happy painting to you. Todd.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Painting this way reminds me a lot of how I have done charcoal tonal drawings on sepia colored paper. Using an eraser to pull out the lights and darken the darks with more charcoal. Cool method.
Thank you for sharing. You are a great teacher. Subscribed. Feel free/comfortable to promote yourself more! Your website is only shown for half a second at the end. You could/should probably leave it longer and put it in the info box for all your videos. 😊
Thank you DM! I appreciate your kind words and for taking the time to give me some feedback. Good ideas! I need to get better at that part of things. Appreciate it. I’m doing a paint along Zoom class in a few weeks if you want to join us. I’ve never done one before but a bunch of students had requested it based on the video series. I think it will be of great value. Either way, thank you sincerely fir reaching out with your praise.
Hi Todd, I love your videos. Was interested in your oil ground application. I see that you use 2 coats of oil ground. I'm in the process of putting two coats of acrylic gesso on hardboard and was going to finish it off with one coat of oil ground. Lastly, do you plan to make more videos in the future? Hope so!
What a nice compliment! Thanks so much Kevin. You should have an excellent surface if you prep like that. Good for you. I use one or two coats of oil ground by Gamblin. Yes, I’ll be making more videos very soon. I’m making my first short tonight as a matter of fact and look out for some Plein air videos and travel painting as well.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 That's great news! As a matter of pure coincidence, I've been getting very interested in getting into Plein air. I'll definitely be looking out for your videos. Thanks again for taking the time to put your videos out here for everyone to learn from!
I have some new digital tools I'm playing with that I'm using on my phone and iPad to help me do a few things you're doing more manually. I hope they are a temporary crutch, but they get me to the same place: 1) with an app called Grid, you can load a photo into it to grid out the photo and then use that reference on your phone or iPad to draw it on your canvas; I paid a few dollars and got the upgraded version so I can make my own grid; I like one with 4 x 4 lines rather than just one down the middle vertically and horizontally because I think it's more accurate. I am not good at using a View Catcher yet. 2) I go into Photos on my iPhone and then temporarily change the image to black and white to see the values, as I can't do that in my head yet. 3) There is another app called Notanizer if you want to do an Notan study. I actually see there is or was a ViewCatcher app, but I can't find in the Apple App store.
Gary, I use all of those things. I use my iPhone and iPad to edit in the field and in the studio. It’s an excellent resource and if Michelangelo had an iPad, I’m sure he would use it. LOL! I also use a grid app as well. I have use the notarizer and it is an excellent tool. Please remember, all of these are simply tools. Above all, using your eyes and developing sensitivities to distinguish the subtleties in value changes is a key element to your growth as a painter. This takes practice and lots of looking. Make yourself a simple value scale, look at A Winslow Homer book. Squint your eyes and focus on just the darkest darks. Within a minute or two, if you can remain squinting, you will see abstract puzzle shapes of dark almost emerge from the page. If that’s happening, you are exercising the right side of your brain and are able to see abstract puzzle shapes rather than things. This is at the heart of seeing. The heart of seeing requires an ability to distinguish dark from light. Do the same thing with the lights and then begin the more difficult challenge of seeing the midterms. You can hold your value scale up to any painting and look for a value 5 for example. developing sensitivities to see mid tones is one of the highest degrees of challenges. Master this and you are two steps ahead of the sheriff.
Great video! I use water mixable oils and I always use a fast dry medium. I've tried this technique with my medium but it almost dries too fast..like it feels hard to erase. Could I use the linseed oil as you do and then use my fast dry medium in subsequent layers on top?
Thank you for the kind words. Yes! You can use water soluble oils over traditional linseed oils. Remember, I’m using the Linseed oil only once in the initial layer over my drawing. It’s important to note that this layer is whisper thin. Once you run your fingers over it, you will feel a thin film residue. It’s important not to go too thick. It’s only purpose is to seal the drawing and extend your painting time in the subsequent next layer. Good luck and happy painting.
Great video! Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. This is a valuable study worth the try. The explanation is excellent and the process is just amazing. Congratulations on your channel and I wish you the best. It will grow fast! I hope you continue with posting more videos with different subjects. Blessings and be safe. New subscriber and I will look at your other videos.
Thank you for posting such an informative video. It made me subscribe :). Do you think I could use walnut oil instead of linseed oil for the first step?
Hi Laura, Thank you so much! It was sweet of you to take the time and write to me. I’m glad you subscribed and I hope you found something of value to help you with your own painting. Yes! You can use one of oil. I think you’ll find it works just about as well as refined linseed oil. Let me know how your experiment works out. If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com. It would be fun to paint with you
Thanks for this wonderful little video! How did you get that ripply texture on the white ground (as it appears at 3:30)? This texture becomes wonderfully pronounced after you add the umber (at 8:38)!
Hi, thank you for your comment, I’m sorry for my late reply. I’m daily new to hosting a channel and just seeing your comment now. To answer your question, I got the texture by priming the wood panel with acrylic gesso using a large brush. The brush left the texture. Thank you for pointing it out. I like that effect as well.
Hi Jose, do you have about six hours or so of drying time before the paint begins to set and get tacky. This is the paintings way of telling you it’s time to quit for the day. You can work on any size painting with this. If you click this link it will take you to a page where I illustrate the entire process through photographs. The painting I’m working on in these photos is 48 x 60“. Good size. Best of luck.
This is a great video, thank you. Love this methodical approach, your explanations and all the tips. I do have one question though, I'm new to oils. At 2:50, when covering the canvas with linseed oil and some umber: won't this make the first layer a very fat layer (even if so thinly applyed) and break the fat over lean rule? I don't think the next layers can be fatter than this first one. Won't this cause problems after a few months of drying up like cracks in the paint or so?
Oil painting techniques like this have been used since the classical era of oil painting as long as you seal your painting once it’s done drying it should be fine for generations
Todd, would you use this same method while doing plein air? I'm guessing the gamsol will dry quickly enough allowing you to add color to your underpainting? Would you ever do the underpainting in acrylic to get it to dry quick enough?
Hi Gary, good to see your comment here, thank you so much for your interest and passion. I have tried this doing plein air. I did it and oils over two days. The first day I simply did the monochrome under painting and then I came back another time and glazed in color. I have also done a raw umber acrylic under painting, and then glazed in oil color over that in the field. It’s an excellent technique. It offers a sensitivity to light and dark in a way that direct painting methods do not. To be clear, when I do go out plein air, I primarily paint directly. One other thing, if you are going to do an acrylic underpainting, be sure your canvas is prepared with acrylic gesso rather than oil prime. You can paint oil over acrylic, but not the opposite. Looking forward to having you in class and learning and painting with you. All the best, Todd
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Todd, thanks! when you "glazed in oil color over that in the field" did you use alkyd dryers to reduce the drying time for the glazing or is that not needed? In your acrylic underpainting, are you able to wipe away the lights like with a dry brush or wet brush or towel, or do you actually need to use some white paint to add those? thank you.
This is great, I much prefer it to wiping away from a ground of pigment plus OMS which I've been using up til now. 2 questions - is there a danger of subsequent layers cracking as only linseed oil is used in this layer ('fat')? Also, how long should I leave this underlayer to dry? (maybe if long enough that negates my first question?) Thanks so much for sharing this Todd!
Hi Kate, I’m sorry to get to your question so late, please forgive me. I’m glad you found value in these videos. Good question regarding the Far Over lean principal. If you watch carefully in the video, you can see how I stress using only a whisper thin layer of oil. Its purpose is to seal the drawing and create a slippery surface for the subsequent layer of rubber. You can see in the video where I wipe my fingers over the surface and present a very thin residue of oil on my fingertips. It is such a thin application of oil that it does not present a fat over lean issue with regard to cracking. Also note that, and subsequent layers of color application, I am using liquin. Liquid is an alkyd resin Quick dry medium. Comparatively devoid of fat. Typically with glazed passages, there is hardly an issue of cracking when using it in this manner. Good luck to you and happy painting my friend
Do you use oil primer and do you have any information on you make your painting panels? Are they mounted with linen, and/or do you prime the panel itself? thank you.
Hi Gary, good to hear from you again. I use two surfaces, either oil primed linen mounted to wood panels or I use oil primer on wood panels. Let me break each down for you below: 1) Oil primed linen canvas: I buy it by the roll. It is expensive but cheapest to buy by the roll and cut and glue them onto panels yourself. The alternative is to purchase them yourself, already mounted on wood panels...that is very expensive. If you can afford it, Sourcetek makes great Oil primed linen canvas mounted on wood that are ready to paint on. I buy a roll of linen (Clausens #13 single primed) it comes already primed. I cut it to the size I need and glue mount it on a pre cut wood panel. I use Masonite hard board panels that I buy at Home Depot. I buy a large 8x4’ sheet fir under ten bucks and cut it to sizes I want to paint on. The glue takes about an hour to set...Put a book or two on it and set it to secure the adhesion and boom! Good to go. 2) Oil primed wood panels. I buy a large can of oil primer from Gamblin on Dick Blick.com. I use a roller and put on a healthy coat of primer on a pre-cut wood panel. Let it dry (it can take a week) and boom !!...Good to go! Hope that helps. See you in class my friend.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thank you! I think you mean this roll of linen? Claessens Linen Canvas Rolls. Which texture? Do you use Gamblin PVA Sizing or something like that for the glue? thank you.
Thx for sharing your video. I landed here while I was searching for an alternative to solvent which causes headaches when I use it in my under paintings. After seeing your process I did a test run on a canvas paper. I applied refined linseed oil but it didn’t work 😢It was pretty hard for me to lift the paint. I guess it’s a problem with the oil painting paper surface and I will test it on a small piece of canvas.
Thank you for your kind comments. Papers can be very absorbent and are not ideal for oil. It’s always best to use substrate that’s prepared and such a way that it will not be “thirsty“, or drink your oil/color. I prefer preparing my canvas or boards with oil primer. Give that a try and best of luck.
I like your handle and painting outdoors with a Covina and a scotch on occasion. To answer your question, You can definitely paint larger no problem. Here is a link to a series of photos I took of the process on a 48x60” oil. www.toddbonita.com/how-i-make-a-picture.html
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thanks Todd. You know I havent actually tried that yet 🙈 It seems all my cash is going towards art supplies these days. Ok I see its possible now thank you. I’ve notice others use turps on the cloth and was thinking that might be a way too. But Ill first just go with what you’ve done. Thanks again
Todd, I've seen an underpainting started with just Gamsol. What does the linseed oil do vs. Gamsol? I'm guessing Gamsol might be better for plein air because it dries faster? thank you.
Hi Gary, thanks for your comment and question. Yes! You are correct. The game saw is certainly better for plein air because it evaporates. Studio painting is a completely different beast all together. Particularly here when layering and glazing. The linseed oil is used very thinly as you can see in the video. The purpose is threefold. One, it helps seal the drawing underneath. Two, It creates a thin, slippery surface for the brush to cover and for the subsequent paper towel to wipe away paint in the next step. Three, it gives you a little more time to work before the paint dries. I’d say about six hours. Looking forward to painting with you in our class. You will understand it more readily in the context of our first painting together. I will be there to critique you live in the zoom class. Looking forward to it my friend. See you soon.
Just learned more about the actual technique of painting in this short 20 minute video than I did in the 7 years I spent in art school
Gosh your voice is so soothing and this is so relaxing and I’m learning so much and I’m not even half way through.
This series is just what I had been looking for to finally _get_ grisaille! Thanks! I like the painting, though it also creeps me out a bit. It's like at any given moment a ghostly figure could come out of the house, telling me all the mistakes I made in life (or something). I love your accent! I hope you get around to doing more videos at some point.
Great video. Thanks for posting
I've been looks ng for this exact method demonstrated. Thank you! For those of us who struggle with value, this method is so helpful!
Hi Susan,
That makes me smile! Thank you for your note. I’m glad you found something that was of use to you in your own work.
If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com.
It would be fun to paint with you
Don't know if you're still out there but thanks just started with watercolour and charcoal and some oil pastels., a bit nervous about oils for some reason but this is the trigger. Very grateful.
I'm loving your videos with so much information to help me learn thank you
Great tutorial. You deserve more views :)
Hey, thanks!
Such an easy trick, but it makes all the difference!
Great video, I hope you continue to share your knowledge. Love how you have explanations on why you use what.
Thank you so much for your note. I appreciate you taking the time. I hope you found something of value.
If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com.
It would be fun to paint with you
Nice atmosphere in this.
Thank you so much
Really great video, thanks!
Great video! I love monochromatic painting. Never been brave enough to use a little chip brush for the whole thing- I’ll have to give that a try. ☺️
Thank you so much for the comment. Glad you liked it and found something of value. I completely understand the fear component. It’s not often talked about in art schools but the phenomenon of fear with painting exists. There is an excellent exercise that you can do to combat the fear. I will add that this fear can prevent you from doing your best work. Fear tightens you up. Self-expression comes more naturally when you are free of the burden of fear. You are a loser by virtue of being OK with failing. Failure is part of success.
In any case, try this exercise. Using an 11 x 14“ canvas, draw a line down the middle vertically in another line down the middle horizontally, thereby making for equal rectangles. Instead of doing one painting, do four of them.
It’s called abundance mentality. As soon as you quarter your canvas, your brain is relieved of the burden of putting your painting on a pedestal and demanding perfection from yourself. Your brain now perceives the quartered canvas As an exercise. This is freedom. Freedom equals expression. Good luck and happy painting to you my friend.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Great idea… I’ll give it a go. Thanks. 😊
Love this! Thank you so much for teaching such a valuable technique.
Hi Harriet,
Thank you so much for your sweet note and for taking the time to do so. I’m glad you got something of value out of this.
If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com.
It would be fun to paint with you.
Great lesson! Thanks for sharing!
Wow!❤️👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Love this technique❤
Beautiful. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your comment
The pointy nubb resembles a "stump" that is used to blend charcoal drawings.
Incrredibly useful!
Rather than using a kneaded erasor for that detail work you can get a rubber tool that is made for erasing paint in this manner.
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for watching my videos and checking in with your comment. Yes! You are correct. I just started using one with my plein air paintings. It’s a very useful alternative. Happy painting to you. Todd.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Painting this way reminds me a lot of how I have done charcoal tonal drawings on sepia colored paper. Using an eraser to pull out the lights and darken the darks with more charcoal. Cool method.
Thanks
Thank you for sharing. You are a great teacher. Subscribed.
Feel free/comfortable to promote yourself more! Your website is only shown for half a second at the end. You could/should probably leave it longer and put it in the info box for all your videos. 😊
Thank you DM! I appreciate your kind words and for taking the time to give me some feedback. Good ideas! I need to get better at that part of things. Appreciate it.
I’m doing a paint along Zoom class in a few weeks if you want to join us. I’ve never done one before but a bunch of students had requested it based on the video series. I think it will be of great value. Either way, thank you sincerely fir reaching out with your praise.
Hi Todd, I love your videos. Was interested in your oil ground application. I see that you use 2 coats of oil ground. I'm in the process of putting two coats of acrylic gesso on hardboard and was going to finish it off with one coat of oil ground. Lastly, do you plan to make more videos in the future? Hope so!
What a nice compliment! Thanks so much Kevin. You should have an excellent surface if you prep like that. Good for you. I use one or two coats of oil ground by Gamblin.
Yes, I’ll be making more videos very soon. I’m making my first short tonight as a matter of fact and look out for some Plein air videos and travel painting as well.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 That's great news! As a matter of pure coincidence, I've been getting very interested in getting into Plein air. I'll definitely be looking out for your videos. Thanks again for taking the time to put your videos out here for everyone to learn from!
Nice demo
I have some new digital tools I'm playing with that I'm using on my phone and iPad to help me do a few things you're doing more manually. I hope they are a temporary crutch, but they get me to the same place: 1) with an app called Grid, you can load a photo into it to grid out the photo and then use that reference on your phone or iPad to draw it on your canvas; I paid a few dollars and got the upgraded version so I can make my own grid; I like one with 4 x 4 lines rather than just one down the middle vertically and horizontally because I think it's more accurate. I am not good at using a View Catcher yet. 2) I go into Photos on my iPhone and then temporarily change the image to black and white to see the values, as I can't do that in my head yet. 3) There is another app called Notanizer if you want to do an Notan study. I actually see there is or was a ViewCatcher app, but I can't find in the Apple App store.
Gary, I use all of those things. I use my iPhone and iPad to edit in the field and in the studio. It’s an excellent resource and if Michelangelo had an iPad, I’m sure he would use it. LOL! I also use a grid app as well. I have use the notarizer and it is an excellent tool.
Please remember, all of these are simply tools. Above all, using your eyes and developing sensitivities to distinguish the subtleties in value changes is a key element to your growth as a painter. This takes practice and lots of looking. Make yourself a simple value scale, look at A Winslow Homer book. Squint your eyes and focus on just the darkest darks. Within a minute or two, if you can remain squinting, you will see abstract puzzle shapes of dark almost emerge from the page. If that’s happening, you are exercising the right side of your brain and are able to see abstract puzzle shapes rather than things. This is at the heart of seeing. The heart of seeing requires an ability to distinguish dark from light. Do the same thing with the lights and then begin the more difficult challenge of seeing the midterms. You can hold your value scale up to any painting and look for a value 5 for example. developing sensitivities to see mid tones is one of the highest degrees of challenges. Master this and you are two steps ahead of the sheriff.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 thank you. great advice!
Great video! I use water mixable oils and I always use a fast dry medium. I've tried this technique with my medium but it almost dries too fast..like it feels hard to erase. Could I use the linseed oil as you do and then use my fast dry medium in subsequent layers on top?
Thank you for the kind words. Yes! You can use water soluble oils over traditional linseed oils. Remember, I’m using the Linseed oil only once in the initial layer over my drawing. It’s important to note that this layer is whisper thin. Once you run your fingers over it, you will feel a thin film residue. It’s important not to go too thick. It’s only purpose is to seal the drawing and extend your painting time in the subsequent next layer. Good luck and happy painting.
Great video! Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. This is a valuable study worth the try. The explanation is excellent and the process is just amazing. Congratulations on your channel and I wish you the best. It will grow fast! I hope you continue with posting more videos with different subjects. Blessings and be safe. New subscriber and I will look at your other videos.
Thank you so much for your kind reply. I’m glad to hear you got something of value from it. Happy painting to you my friend.
Thank you for posting such an informative video. It made me subscribe :). Do you think I could use walnut oil instead of linseed oil for the first step?
Hi Laura,
Thank you so much! It was sweet of you to take the time and write to me. I’m glad you subscribed and I hope you found something of value to help you with your own painting.
Yes! You can use one of oil. I think you’ll find it works just about as well as refined linseed oil. Let me know how your experiment works out.
If you are interested in joining me for an online, zoom paint along, i’m planning on doing one in a few weeks...shoot me an email at my email address. Tmbonita@gmail.com.
It would be fun to paint with you
Thanks for this wonderful little video! How did you get that ripply texture on the white ground (as it appears at 3:30)? This texture becomes wonderfully pronounced after you add the umber (at 8:38)!
Hi, thank you for your comment, I’m sorry for my late reply. I’m daily new to hosting a channel and just seeing your comment now.
To answer your question, I got the texture by priming the wood panel with acrylic gesso using a large brush. The brush left the texture. Thank you for pointing it out. I like that effect as well.
If you want yo do this for a large painting, how would you do it? Wouldn't It dry before you make all the values?
Hi Jose, do you have about six hours or so of drying time before the paint begins to set and get tacky. This is the paintings way of telling you it’s time to quit for the day. You can work on any size painting with this. If you click this link it will take you to a page where I illustrate the entire process through photographs. The painting I’m working on in these photos is 48 x 60“. Good size. Best of luck.
www.toddbonita.com/how-i-make-a-picture.html
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thanks a lot, thats very helpful
@@toddbonitafineart1584 And what surface is better so It takes longer to dry? Wood panel, canvas...
This is a great video, thank you. Love this methodical approach, your explanations and all the tips. I do have one question though, I'm new to oils. At 2:50, when covering the canvas with linseed oil and some umber: won't this make the first layer a very fat layer (even if so thinly applyed) and break the fat over lean rule? I don't think the next layers can be fatter than this first one. Won't this cause problems after a few months of drying up like cracks in the paint or so?
Oil painting techniques like this have been used since the classical era of oil painting as long as you seal your painting once it’s done drying it should be fine for generations
Todd, would you use this same method while doing plein air? I'm guessing the gamsol will dry quickly enough allowing you to add color to your underpainting? Would you ever do the underpainting in acrylic to get it to dry quick enough?
Hi Gary, good to see your comment here, thank you so much for your interest and passion. I have tried this doing plein air. I did it and oils over two days. The first day I simply did the monochrome under painting and then I came back another time and glazed in color.
I have also done a raw umber acrylic under painting, and then glazed in oil color over that in the field. It’s an excellent technique. It offers a sensitivity to light and dark in a way that direct painting methods do not.
To be clear, when I do go out plein air, I primarily paint directly.
One other thing, if you are going to do an acrylic underpainting, be sure your canvas is prepared with acrylic gesso rather than oil prime. You can paint oil over acrylic, but not the opposite.
Looking forward to having you in class and learning and painting with you. All the best, Todd
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Todd, thanks! when you "glazed in oil color over that in the field" did you use alkyd dryers to reduce the drying time for the glazing or is that not needed? In your acrylic underpainting, are you able to wipe away the lights like with a dry brush or wet brush or towel, or do you actually need to use some white paint to add those? thank you.
This is great, I much prefer it to wiping away from a ground of pigment plus OMS which I've been using up til now. 2 questions - is there a danger of subsequent layers cracking as only linseed oil is used in this layer ('fat')? Also, how long should I leave this underlayer to dry? (maybe if long enough that negates my first question?) Thanks so much for sharing this Todd!
Hi Kate,
I’m sorry to get to your question so late, please forgive me. I’m glad you found value in these videos. Good question regarding the Far Over lean principal. If you watch carefully in the video, you can see how I stress using only a whisper thin layer of oil. Its purpose is to seal the drawing and create a slippery surface for the subsequent layer of rubber. You can see in the video where I wipe my fingers over the surface and present a very thin residue of oil on my fingertips. It is such a thin application of oil that it does not present a fat over lean issue with regard to cracking.
Also note that, and subsequent layers of color application, I am using liquin. Liquid is an alkyd resin Quick dry medium. Comparatively devoid of fat. Typically with glazed passages, there is hardly an issue of cracking when using it in this manner. Good luck to you and happy painting my friend
Do you use oil primer and do you have any information on you make your painting panels? Are they mounted with linen, and/or do you prime the panel itself? thank you.
Hi Gary, good to hear from you again. I use two surfaces, either oil primed linen mounted to wood panels or I use oil primer on wood panels. Let me break each down for you below:
1) Oil primed linen canvas:
I buy it by the roll. It is expensive but cheapest to buy by the roll and cut and glue them onto panels yourself. The alternative is to purchase them yourself, already mounted on wood panels...that is very expensive. If you can afford it, Sourcetek makes great Oil primed linen canvas mounted on wood that are ready to paint on.
I buy a roll of linen (Clausens #13 single primed) it comes already primed. I cut it to the size I need and glue mount it on a pre cut wood panel. I use Masonite hard board panels that I buy at Home Depot. I buy a large 8x4’ sheet fir under ten bucks and cut it to sizes I want to paint on. The glue takes about an hour to set...Put a book or two on it and set it to secure the adhesion and boom! Good to go.
2) Oil primed wood panels.
I buy a large can of oil primer from Gamblin on Dick Blick.com.
I use a roller and put on a healthy coat of primer on a pre-cut wood panel. Let it dry (it can take a week) and boom !!...Good to go!
Hope that helps. See you in class my friend.
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thank you! I think you mean this roll of linen? Claessens Linen Canvas Rolls. Which texture? Do you use Gamblin PVA Sizing or something like that for the glue? thank you.
Gratitude
Thx for sharing your video. I landed here while I was searching for an alternative to solvent which causes headaches when I use it in my under paintings. After seeing your process I did a test run on a canvas paper. I applied refined linseed oil but it didn’t work 😢It was pretty hard for me to lift the paint. I guess it’s a problem with the oil painting paper surface and I will test it on a small piece of canvas.
Thank you for your kind comments. Papers can be very absorbent and are not ideal for oil. It’s always best to use substrate that’s prepared and such a way that it will not be “thirsty“, or drink your oil/color. I prefer preparing my canvas or boards with oil primer. Give that a try and best of luck.
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This is cool but what do you do if you’re working on a 20”x30” canvas? I doubt that material is going to hold if you keep rubbing at it?
I like your handle and painting outdoors with a Covina and a scotch on occasion.
To answer your question, You can definitely paint larger no problem. Here is a link to a series of photos I took of the process on a 48x60” oil.
www.toddbonita.com/how-i-make-a-picture.html
@@toddbonitafineart1584 Thanks Todd. You know I havent actually tried that yet 🙈 It seems all my cash is going towards art supplies these days. Ok I see its possible now thank you. I’ve notice others use turps on the cloth and was thinking that might be a way too. But Ill first just go with what you’ve done. Thanks again
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Can it be possible to use that oil first step in a fabric canvas?
Yes! I work on both linen or cotton canvas with the same results. It’s an excellent old technique.
Hi Todd Bonita Can you give me the same photo reference. I want to use it to do same as you taught.
Hi Alan, sure..send me an email and I’ll reply with it. Thanks so much
Are you using oil or acrylic for your under painting?
Oil.
Todd, I've seen an underpainting started with just Gamsol. What does the linseed oil do vs. Gamsol? I'm guessing Gamsol might be better for plein air because it dries faster? thank you.
Hi Gary, thanks for your comment and question. Yes! You are correct. The game saw is certainly better for plein air because it evaporates. Studio painting is a completely different beast all together. Particularly here when layering and glazing. The linseed oil is used very thinly as you can see in the video. The purpose is threefold. One, it helps seal the drawing underneath. Two, It creates a thin, slippery surface for the brush to cover and for the subsequent paper towel to wipe away paint in the next step. Three, it gives you a little more time to work before the paint dries. I’d say about six hours.
Looking forward to painting with you in our class. You will understand it more readily in the context of our first painting together. I will be there to critique you live in the zoom class. Looking forward to it my friend. See you soon.
Colorshapers would work better
Ёжик в тумане. Понятно.
Great work