I use the Gold Tip tip grip glue and it's been great! It's all about arrow and vane prep. Whether I am using wraps or plain shafts, I lightly wipe the wrap (or shaft) with acetone before fletching. If your wraps have designs, they might be ruined by acetone. I make my own wraps so I'm not sure. I also wipe the vane bases and then prep them with purple pvc primer. My vanes have about the same holding power of the second arrow you guys tested. The other thing is to use minimal glue. Should have little to no squeeze out. Use it for Blazers on hunting arrows, vanetec 1.8s on 3d arrows and 4" feathers on indoor. I also use the tip grip on my inserts and points, holds great! But it's also easier to knock them out with a drill bit should I need to change them. Epoxy is much more permanent. All that being said, I'm always tinkering, so what was the glue you preferred?
There are 2 major factors here that stand out. One arrow has a wrap on it. Fletchings and glue do not work that well on a wrap. You can prep a carbon/ graphite shaft and the glue will stick better.
I would like to see you use both of those glues on bare shafts bonded the same way with the same fletching. Of course the fletching with the wrap will tear off more easily. I bet it wasn’t a failure in the bond but a tear in the wrap. It would also be nice to see if the failure was on the shaft side or the fletching side, or in other words where the failure accused. Just my two cents.
Your kidding right? You have never tore fletchings off a wrap to reflech it? The failure is not in the glue the wrap rips off from the shaft. Anyways if you are making claims about a product and the testing isn’t consistent between the two the test it is bogus, that is the point I was trying to make. That’s scientific research 101.
@@cordellnebeker9748 no I've always ran bohning wraps and have never had a fletch come of or tear the wrap because I've always used loctite gel superglue. And the only way to get them off is to scrape them off or soak in boiling water and peel the wrap off vanes still attached. Eben before they came out with the gel I used regular superglue and never had a problem and I've been shooting for close to 30 years
Watch the video a little closer you can see that the fletching tore off the wrap. Again still a bogus presentation when you make claims like that and then use one with a wrap and one without. I have fletched and re-fleched hundreds of arrows with a bunch of different brands of wraps as well as directly to the shaft. It’s not a fare comparison how they did it. For them to make claims like they did they should have prepped the shafts the exact same way and then did the test. Then claims could be valid, but not the way they did it. It’s bogus, sorry!
@@cordellnebeker9748 bro you're missing what I said from my own personal experience. Even when using on a bare shaft all pf the fletch glues fail easier than super glue. And your hundreds don't compare to my thousands on top of thousands
😂Well one thing the one that tears off easy is because it’s put on the wrap and the wrap is easy to rip off no matter what glue, and most glues u will need a channel locks if put on properly, using primer pen if needed use it
Absolutely! That’s the whole purpose of using wraps and why they were made , they’re designed to keep the shafts from being damaged and easy removal , any vanes will bond to a shaft better than a wrap if they’re prepped identically
@@longshotdiedtired1582yea but there acting like the glue is the reason it came off when it was the wrap because there doing a commercial that’s my point
Not apples to apples with that test. Straight to the carbon is permanent. They just simply do not adhere as well to vinyl. That being 6:18 am still using vinyl. I want to have a flawless shaft if i choose to refletch.
Someone mentioned the cresting and that would certainly have an effect. But it looks to me like the vane itself just ripped off, the glue didn't turn loose.
Just found your channel and you already lost me with the "you have one arrow that flies good out of your twelve arrows..." If you've only got 1 of 12, you are not even an average archer and should practice more, work on your form, build your arrows correctly, etc. Like you said, what if something goes sideways with your "one arrow that flies good" or you are in your stand, took the shot with your "good arrow" and along comes another target and you have an unfilled tag? Do you really go into the woods/field with one arrow and only one? You should, at minimum, have 3 arrows that group tightly within that dozen. Ideally it will be closer to 9 (or less if you blew them up after continued shooting when stacking 3 together). Ultimately, you end up with 3 sets of three that are all grouping well. One "good arrow out of 12"...LOL
What's funny is yall want to do a comparison but yet you wrap one arrow with a arrow wrap and the other 1 you don't obviously you're going to make it harder for the fletching to rip off on the arrow that is not wrapped with a arrow wrap the arrow wrap is made of thin plastic which is very easy to rip been there done that that's why I don't use arrow wraps anymore I use gorilla glue all the time works just fine
Ok message to the fletching guy. You had 2 different arrows with 2 different types of fletching, one arrow even had a wrap, and if I heard you correctly 2 different people even did the work, this skews the results of the pull test. I totally agree that not all adhesives are the same but when you are trying to prove a point you should at least try to use the same arrows and fletching. I appreciate what you are trying to do but maybe try the to adhesives again with different fletching, wraps and arrows and show the true results, some fletching sticks better than others, some arrows make a better bond than others
Haha the vanes that ripped off were on a wrap of course they will rip off easily lol 6 arrows or 5 on a quiver if they all fail that animal deserve to live 😅
If you only have one (1) arrow out of 12 that flys well something is wrong. Spine match, paper tune and pretty much all of them will fly well. The few, 1 out of 12 that don’t cut it, throw the one away. Done
It was pretty obvious the first two were legit. It was hilarious watching the blank expressions when the noise making magnetized game alarm was rolled out. It's not supposed to be easy to harvest animals with archery equipment. Next new gadget is a stock and gunpowder. Maybe a scope.
Aerovane glue does not let you reuse the applicator pin, must buy new applicator pins for every day you use it. Wish you would have told us this as the pin is almost a buck apiece.
I get it but a nose 👃 button why when you can just touch the string to the end of your nose been shooting nose to string for 20+ years now a tournament archer should me that when I bought my second bow I think the nose to string anchor made me a better shooter by far and now teaching my son to drill his targets the same way
Blazer bond.. and insert iron.. that's all I use now. Blazer bond you can shoot it right away and I do not lose fletching now. Ans insert iron takes a sold 12 to 24 to set up but is not coming lose. I've tried fire nock glue there insert glue is great. I don't like the fletching gluem maybe they changed since the last time I used it.
@@mikemitchell9157 Yes, you are correct. However most adhesive failures are from uneven pressure and insufficient clamp time. People pull it off too early and leave pockets of air under the vane, or start shooting the arrow before the glue fully cures. Activator/catalyst makes the bond cure much faster, so you're more likely to get a good bond when the clamp is still in place. For your average person, activator will make it stronger without changing anything else.
@@mikemitchell9157 I'm plenty patient, and I've built many arrows with and without it. Depending on the shape of the base, a primer is very helpful to get the edges to hold tight when you're adding pressure by hand and then letting the center cure on its own. Many of the vanes I use require it (AAE, TAC, and arguably DCA). I find much greater consistency in hold when I use a primer, as well. Good bonds are good, but I get more of them with more prep work. An $8 tube or bottle of activator/primer/cyanoacrylate catalyst can last for hundreds of arrows or about a year, whichever comes first. It's really not that expensive, and you don't need archery specific stuff. It's the same chemical no matter the bottle it comes in, so you can get a budget product. The best glue for vanes is the loctite professional liquid, which costs less than $4 a bottle and is way more volume than any archery company sells at that price point. I also cut my own vinyl wraps from rolls I buy from Amazon. If your vanes hold just fine without it, that's great. But I have better luck on more surfaces, especially vinyl wraps (they're mostly all the same) when I use an activator. You do you, but if you want to use a Max Hunter or TAC Driver without a primer of some kind, you're gonna have a bad time.
The vein with the arrow wrap with always come off easier, that’s been my experience.
The saying "buy once Cry once" should be banned from your show also 🤣
What was the glue?
Yea no kidding! They didnt say which one was better or worse or anything.
Says in the description
@@bipolarbear69 not the bad kind though
@@zachschultz3534 it's the good kind in the description, has no stabilizer in it so it's shelf life is low but bonds extremely well
@@bipolarbear69 awesome Thanks. I totally over look that. I did rewind and watch again to make sure I didn’t miss before commenting.
I use the Gold Tip tip grip glue and it's been great!
It's all about arrow and vane prep. Whether I am using wraps or plain shafts, I lightly wipe the wrap (or shaft) with acetone before fletching. If your wraps have designs, they might be ruined by acetone. I make my own wraps so I'm not sure.
I also wipe the vane bases and then prep them with purple pvc primer. My vanes have about the same holding power of the second arrow you guys tested.
The other thing is to use minimal glue. Should have little to no squeeze out.
Use it for Blazers on hunting arrows, vanetec 1.8s on 3d arrows and 4" feathers on indoor.
I also use the tip grip on my inserts and points, holds great! But it's also easier to knock them out with a drill bit should I need to change them. Epoxy is much more permanent.
All that being said, I'm always tinkering, so what was the glue you preferred?
I might try the pvc primer.
I used to rub the gold tip glue to. The aero vane glue is definitely better. And because of the tip style you use way less glue
There are 2 major factors here that stand out. One arrow has a wrap on it. Fletchings and glue do not work that well on a wrap. You can prep a carbon/ graphite shaft and the glue will stick better.
Amen brother that's what I'm saying
I would like to see you use both of those glues on bare shafts bonded the same way with the same fletching. Of course the fletching with the wrap will tear off more easily. I bet it wasn’t a failure in the bond but a tear in the wrap. It would also be nice to see if the failure was on the shaft side or the fletching side, or in other words where the failure accused. Just my two cents.
I've never had a wrap tear its the glue that will fail
Your kidding right? You have never tore fletchings off a wrap to reflech it? The failure is not in the glue the wrap rips off from the shaft. Anyways if you are making claims about a product and the testing isn’t consistent between the two the test it is bogus, that is the point I was trying to make. That’s scientific research 101.
@@cordellnebeker9748 no I've always ran bohning wraps and have never had a fletch come of or tear the wrap because I've always used loctite gel superglue. And the only way to get them off is to scrape them off or soak in boiling water and peel the wrap off vanes still attached. Eben before they came out with the gel I used regular superglue and never had a problem and I've been shooting for close to 30 years
Watch the video a little closer you can see that the fletching tore off the wrap. Again still a bogus presentation when you make claims like that and then use one with a wrap and one without. I have fletched and re-fleched hundreds of arrows with a bunch of different brands of wraps as well as directly to the shaft. It’s not a fare comparison how they did it. For them to make claims like they did they should have prepped the shafts the exact same way and then did the test. Then claims could be valid, but not the way they did it. It’s bogus, sorry!
@@cordellnebeker9748 bro you're missing what I said from my own personal experience. Even when using on a bare shaft all pf the fletch glues fail easier than super glue. And your hundreds don't compare to my thousands on top of thousands
Being able to put my longbow around my body and being hands free was always a perk. Now looks like compound bow guys can have the same luxury!
1:46 that follow thru was a game changer...
LMAO
Going to check out that bow sling for sure!!
😂Well one thing the one that tears off easy is because it’s put on the wrap and the wrap is easy to rip off no matter what glue, and most glues u will need a channel locks if put on properly, using primer pen if needed use it
Absolutely! That’s the whole purpose of using wraps and why they were made , they’re designed to keep the shafts from being damaged and easy removal , any vanes will bond to a shaft better than a wrap if they’re prepped identically
@@longshotdiedtired1582😂 yea cause wraps r so easy to take off
@@longshotdiedtired1582yea but there acting like the glue is the reason it came off when it was the wrap because there doing a commercial that’s my point
I really want one of those slings. I think I'm gonna order one right now
Awesome video guys
Not apples to apples with that test. Straight to the carbon is permanent. They just simply do not adhere as well to vinyl. That being 6:18 am still using vinyl. I want to have a flawless shaft if i choose to refletch.
I've been using G-Lock BLU-GLU for the last year, I've never lost so many vanes. I'm going back to Fletch-Tite....
I liked and subscribed already because of rule #2!
My take on stabilizers. Anything shorter than 10" on the front is useless and is unnecessary weight. For a back bar they are fine
One vane is fletcher on a wrap & one is directly on the shaft. Big difference.
Someone mentioned the cresting and that would certainly have an effect. But it looks to me like the vane itself just ripped off, the glue didn't turn loose.
That cresting on the arrow impacts the fletching adhering tremendously...just sayin🤷♂️
💯Cresting and wraps!
Just found your channel and you already lost me with the "you have one arrow that flies good out of your twelve arrows..." If you've only got 1 of 12, you are not even an average archer and should practice more, work on your form, build your arrows correctly, etc. Like you said, what if something goes sideways with your "one arrow that flies good" or you are in your stand, took the shot with your "good arrow" and along comes another target and you have an unfilled tag? Do you really go into the woods/field with one arrow and only one? You should, at minimum, have 3 arrows that group tightly within that dozen. Ideally it will be closer to 9 (or less if you blew them up after continued shooting when stacking 3 together). Ultimately, you end up with 3 sets of three that are all grouping well. One "good arrow out of 12"...LOL
That might be applicable in some respects, only catch is you missed his analogy… he wasn’t being 100% literal
What's funny is yall want to do a comparison but yet you wrap one arrow with a arrow wrap and the other 1 you don't obviously you're going to make it harder for the fletching to rip off on the arrow that is not wrapped with a arrow wrap the arrow wrap is made of thin plastic which is very easy to rip been there done that that's why I don't use arrow wraps anymore I use gorilla glue all the time works just fine
What type of “premium” glue is that? I’d like to try it
Link is in the description!
@@ExodusOutdoorGear6:27
What do you guys think about handheld release or wrist strap
Super glue works great for my fletchings. Preferably the gel so you don't get the runs
I'd bet all the archery vain glues are just cyanoacrylate
Used to carry my bow by the string till the string rolled off the cam and shoved my hand into the cable guide now I just hold it on the riser
The biggest problem I have with the sling is I carry a tree stand on my back 90% of the time so it does me no good to have a sling on my bow!
FFS - stabilisers are NOT about balancing your bow. The hint is in the name, get it right and do better.
Vane choice is a big factor. Bohning vanes are the best ive tried so far.
I’ve been shooting 40 years and have never had a fletch fall off
Ok message to the fletching guy. You had 2 different arrows with 2 different types of fletching, one arrow even had a wrap, and if I heard you correctly 2 different people even did the work, this skews the results of the pull test. I totally agree that not all adhesives are the same but when you are trying to prove a point you should at least try to use the same arrows and fletching. I appreciate what you are trying to do but maybe try the to adhesives again with different fletching, wraps and arrows and show the true results, some fletching sticks better than others, some arrows make a better bond than others
What kind of glue is it
I shoot and prefer a Side Bar. Only one piece and it is solid. Makes a great handle too.
Never had a back or side , but just seeing it on one side looks like it would lean to that side ?
what glue do you sugest
Might have to get a Sling-A-Ling!
Haha the vanes that ripped off were on a wrap of course they will rip off easily lol 6 arrows or 5 on a quiver if they all fail that animal deserve to live 😅
If you only have one (1) arrow out of 12 that flys well something is wrong. Spine match, paper tune and pretty much all of them will fly well. The few, 1 out of 12 that don’t cut it, throw the one away. Done
It was pretty obvious the first two were legit. It was hilarious watching the blank expressions when the noise making magnetized game alarm was rolled out. It's not supposed to be easy to harvest animals with archery equipment. Next new gadget is a stock and gunpowder. Maybe a scope.
What glue is the recommended one in the video ???
It’s linked in the video description!
What you’re testing is the strength of the wrap adhesive…
Maybe I’m an idiot but I didn’t catch the brand of glue your using and I watched the video twice…
It's linked in the description!
😂 1 arrow out of 12. You gotta be kidding.
So what’s that glue called.
What's the name of the glue ?
Aerovane glue does not let you reuse the applicator pin, must buy new applicator pins for every day you use it. Wish you would have told us this as the pin is almost a buck apiece.
Ok guys, 1 good arrow out of twelve??? Come on.
Love that Sling! My Sling a ling
Always like to experiment with different product. Did anyone catch the name of the glue?
It’s from Firenock
Same glue I use, stays on carbon crossbow bolts moving along at 462 fps
What is the glue called?
@@dominicromito7864 Firenock Aerovane Glue
I heard there’s a lot of cool people who live in Wakeman, Ohio 😎
What happened to deer gear podcast? When I click on it it goes to Jake land mgmt stuff which I have no interest in.
We’re working with Spotify to get it resolved
One arrow has a wrap one doesn’t that’s a big difference
I get it but a nose 👃 button why when you can just touch the string to the end of your nose been shooting nose to string for 20+ years now a tournament archer should me that when I bought my second bow
I think the nose to string anchor made me a better shooter by far and now teaching my son to drill his targets the same way
So whats the glue.
Firenock fletching glue! Linked in the video description
my apologies...should have read further
What’s the brand of glue???
It’s linked in the video description!
@@aarongoeppner413 go all the way down in the description
Sorry everyone! I found it! Just placed an order! For anyone wondering $18 after tax & shipping 👍🏻
Yeah not following this I have atleast 4 arrows that will hit perfect . I have several dozen 5mm shafts
So that clue is just CA glue? Nothing special?
Blazer bond.. and insert iron.. that's all I use now. Blazer bond you can shoot it right away and I do not lose fletching now. Ans insert iron takes a sold 12 to 24 to set up but is not coming lose. I've tried fire nock glue there insert glue is great. I don't like the fletching gluem maybe they changed since the last time I used it.
Yeah, by pretty much any CA glue activator will help with strength without the pain of those tiny glue tips.
Actvator doesn't make it a stronger bond.
@@mikemitchell9157 Yes, you are correct. However most adhesive failures are from uneven pressure and insufficient clamp time. People pull it off too early and leave pockets of air under the vane, or start shooting the arrow before the glue fully cures. Activator/catalyst makes the bond cure much faster, so you're more likely to get a good bond when the clamp is still in place. For your average person, activator will make it stronger without changing anything else.
@@YoureSoVane why spend extra money when you can just be patient and wait an extra 20 seconds
@@mikemitchell9157 I'm plenty patient, and I've built many arrows with and without it. Depending on the shape of the base, a primer is very helpful to get the edges to hold tight when you're adding pressure by hand and then letting the center cure on its own. Many of the vanes I use require it (AAE, TAC, and arguably DCA). I find much greater consistency in hold when I use a primer, as well. Good bonds are good, but I get more of them with more prep work.
An $8 tube or bottle of activator/primer/cyanoacrylate catalyst can last for hundreds of arrows or about a year, whichever comes first. It's really not that expensive, and you don't need archery specific stuff. It's the same chemical no matter the bottle it comes in, so you can get a budget product. The best glue for vanes is the loctite professional liquid, which costs less than $4 a bottle and is way more volume than any archery company sells at that price point. I also cut my own vinyl wraps from rolls I buy from Amazon.
If your vanes hold just fine without it, that's great. But I have better luck on more surfaces, especially vinyl wraps (they're mostly all the same) when I use an activator. You do you, but if you want to use a Max Hunter or TAC Driver without a primer of some kind, you're gonna have a bad time.
What the glue
ok...not to be stupid but what the F. is the actual name of the glue?????? where can it be had? come on guys you need to do better than this!!!
I’ll bash Kifaru sells crap….
Why would you wear a face mask?
👎👎for not telling the name of the “super glue” you are talking about. 👎😊
Please refer to the video description. The glue is linked
bison one second clue and howe mutch talking with the amerikanos :-) one shot one kill