I have learned a lot from your videos thank you for all you time and effort thanks to your videos I got one 85 on road now and building a bobber with another one just wanted to tip my hat to you
Thanks ! Glad the videos have helped some 👍. These do have a few little quirky things about them so I figured some videos along the way might help other owners out. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hi There Steve, Once again, your timing is perfect on this first Gen Virago informational video. This is an excellent video because I didn’t know that until now. I’m very pleased with your videos. Great job, thank you very much.
@Ayadw7 hey again, I usually start at about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out to get both cylinders firing, then do the final sync of the carbs to be sure both are pulling vacuum equally as it’s very important for them to be balanced prior to setting the air/fuel mix. If sync’d up, you should then be able to hear the rpms go up as you fine tune the air/fuel mix for each cylinder.
Greatly appreciated! I just got my virago back up and running and I've got a leak from the o-ring seal. This video helped me understand the mechanics and also make a necessary clutch adjustment before fixing that leak🏍️
Nice-one Steve , just about to change-out my clutch . That kickstart mechanism looks pretty-serious , I'd imagine a few-people will be keen to see how it goes (including myself) Dave
Thank you again Steve, I have the opposite problem, as I suspect my bike has sat for too long (restoration) and not disengaging the drive. This i'm pretty sure is just me having to pull clutch apart and unsticking it or going for a ride and letting it free itself up. cheers for the insight.
Thanks and glad the video helps some 👍. Yep, I’ve had several over the years that the clutch plates get stuck to the disks and won’t let go due to sitting for years. For a first try (before pulling the clutch pack and cleaning things up), I’ll zip tie the clutch lever to the grip and start the bike and let it idle in neutral till the oil is nice and warm. Then shut it off and let it cool all the way back down. Then, with the bike outside so it can’t jump forward and hit anything, I start it up, hold the front brake (and clutch if it’s not still zip tied), give it a little rpms, and then drop it into 1st. Most times it will unlock on the 1st or 2nd try. If it doesn’t unlock, the bike is going to jump forward pretty hard before stalling the motor so be prepared lol. If that isn’t successful, then out comes the clutch pack for cleaning or replacement of the clutch disks. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, I just picked up an 82 750 Virago about a month ago. I've done quite a bit of work to it but It still refuses to start, I was wondering if you've got any advice you could pass along. I cleaned the carb, Reset timing, Adjusted Valves, but I still get backfires out of the carb. Sometimes it goes through the exhaust, other times it doesn't. What's also weird is while cranking I randomly get a puff of mist coming out of the carb intake. Spark appears to be good on both cylinders. What do ya think is the engine gonna need a tear down? about 25K Miles on the bike.
Hey ! If you haven’t already checked, I would check the compression to be sure it’s at least 110 psi for both cylinders (checked while cranking and with the throttle twisted so the butterflies are open). If the timing is good, you have decent compression, good spark, and you are getting fuel, it should at least try to fire up. They are pretty sensitive to the idle air/fuel mix needle adjustment so I start at about 1.5 to 2 turns out so I know it’s getting some fuel. Another trick is to remove the rubber intake elbow attached to the carb and put your fingers over the intake of the carb with them closed together…this will create a vacuum and make the slide lift to really pull in the fuel. If it then tries to fire, you can keep it running by opening gaps between your fingers to regulate the air flow until you can get the mix needle dialed in a bit better. These will actually run on just one cylinder so if you can ever get one firing, you can then work to get the other firing. Another easy thing to try to be sure the floats aren’t stuck open and flooding the cylinders or stuck closed and not providing fuel is to tap the bowls with the handle of a screwdriver to make sure the floats are free…especially if the bike has sat for sometime. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve.
Hey ! No, I haven’t opened up the non running 535 I have that I plan to get started on this year. Not sure if it’s the same setup for those, but will be interesting to see if it has this same little quirk about the clutch being over extended.
I started tearing down an xv920 to use the motor on a go kart. My question is what wires can I keep and what can I cut to simplify the wiring harness? It don’t need a horn or turn signals or a kickstand switch. I’ll worry about all that later but for now I want it to look clean as possible without a big mess of wires that go to nothing hanging everywhere to get caught on something.
Hey man, yep, much of the wiring can be eliminated for sure, as the motor and TCI mainly just need the charging circuit and the ignition circuit to actually run. The TCI has one wire that is the spark defeat (cuts the spark to the plugs) which all of the safety switches go through so all but the Run/Stop button could be eliminated if desired. It might be nice to keep the not starting unless the clutch was in if in gear (or in neutral) which would require another one of the 4 relays under the seat was kept as well as the one for the Run/Stop button. I don’t have a bare bones wiring diagram available, but if you are a Facebook user and can join the Virago Owner’s Club forum, if you search “barebones” in the search field, I’ve seen a schematic that simplifies the wiring needed for a barebones bike wiring. You could probably start with that and simplify it even further. Hope this helps and all the best! Steve
Yep, sounds about right 👍. I usually go about 1/2 turn back once I feel the screw firm up and seems to still a good clutch disengagement. A 1/4 turn back is probably good as well…the main thing is to be sure to check that the clutch doesn’t get stuck prior to putting the side cover back on just in case.
Hi there, before I open up my right cover. Mine is an 85 XV700. It shifts in 1st gear with difficulties and back to neautral. When I release the clutch fully in 1st gear the engine dies. It does not go up to 2nd or higher. You think this might be the problem?
Hey ! Not sure, but it sounds like there’s something going on with the transmission gears or shifter linkage. If the clutch pack is stuck out, it will actually go into gear, but when the clutch lever is released while in gear, it won’t engage the clutches and acts like it’s still in neutral. If it goes into gear with the clutch lever pulled in and the motor stays running, but then stalls the motor (and the bike doesn’t try to lunge forward), then something is locked up in the transmission or rear wheel gearing, or the rear brake pads are locked solid and the wheel cannot rotate. Question…can you push the bike around in neutral? If so, then that eliminates any issues with the rear hub gears and drive shaft and points toward something being wrong with the transmission.
Hi still having the issue. Bike goes into first gear very difficult, upwards is easier. When in 5th it's almost impossible to get it back down. I can push the bike around indeed. I replaced the starter motor and ever since the left cover is back on this issue occurred. I saw a video about the shifter linkage being out of place. Does my described issue sound like that can be what's going on? So summarized: it rolls in neutral, it engages gears but very difficult and it keeps running. I actually drove it for 10 miles or so. The bike runs and engine doesn't die. It's just that the gears dont shift properly. It's VERY difficult to shift downwards, up goes like normal. Am leaning towards the shift linkage being out of place and maybe need to replace the clutch plates? Am willing to fix whatever's the issue. Shops don't want to look at it because it would cost more then it's worth according to them.
Hey Steve, I sent you an email about this issue with some photos. If you have a minute to take a look and help me figure out a portion of this issue I would love that. Thanks
@@StevesDIYs Hi steve, i'm not sure what happened but i didnt receive any reply email from you, not even to my junk folder. I'll resend you the email and maybe you can resend the reply? thanks
lol 🤣. Yep, they are nice and ventilated for sure ! I have found that all of that fuzzy cotton makes them easily combustion able so welding is a definite no no when wearing jeans it that bad of shape lol !
I have learned a lot from your videos thank you for all you time and effort thanks to your videos I got one 85 on road now and building a bobber with another one just wanted to tip my hat to you
Thanks ! Glad the videos have helped some 👍. These do have a few little quirky things about them so I figured some videos along the way might help other owners out. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hi There Steve, Once again, your timing is perfect on this first Gen Virago informational video. This is an excellent video because I didn’t know that until now. I’m very pleased with your videos. Great job, thank you very much.
Thanks man ! I figured some of these little details might help folks as I’ve heard folks struggle with the clutches from time to time.
Love your videos steve 👍🏼 thank you 🙏🏼
Thanks ! Glad the videos help some 👍. All the best ! Steve
Got an xv920 looking to adjust the fuel/mix on it got the carbs cleaned out do you know how many turns I need roughly for best run?
@Ayadw7 hey again, I usually start at about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out to get both cylinders firing, then do the final sync of the carbs to be sure both are pulling vacuum equally as it’s very important for them to be balanced prior to setting the air/fuel mix. If sync’d up, you should then be able to hear the rpms go up as you fine tune the air/fuel mix for each cylinder.
Greatly appreciated! I just got my virago back up and running and I've got a leak from the o-ring seal. This video helped me understand the mechanics and also make a necessary clutch adjustment before fixing that leak🏍️
Thanks and glad the video was helpful 👍. All the best ! Steve
Hey can you help me with my virago it dont start when i hit the start button nothing only the oil amd fuel light turns on no crank no nothing
Nice-one Steve , just about to change-out my clutch . That kickstart mechanism looks pretty-serious , I'd imagine a few-people will be keen to see how it goes (including myself) Dave
Thanks man 👍. Yep, just finished up the final install of the kicker on the bobber today…there should be a video coming very soon for the channel !
Thank you again Steve, I have the opposite problem, as I suspect my bike has sat for too long (restoration) and not disengaging the drive. This i'm pretty sure is just me having to pull clutch apart and unsticking it or going for a ride and letting it free itself up. cheers for the insight.
Thanks and glad the video helps some 👍. Yep, I’ve had several over the years that the clutch plates get stuck to the disks and won’t let go due to sitting for years. For a first try (before pulling the clutch pack and cleaning things up), I’ll zip tie the clutch lever to the grip and start the bike and let it idle in neutral till the oil is nice and warm. Then shut it off and let it cool all the way back down. Then, with the bike outside so it can’t jump forward and hit anything, I start it up, hold the front brake (and clutch if it’s not still zip tied), give it a little rpms, and then drop it into 1st. Most times it will unlock on the 1st or 2nd try. If it doesn’t unlock, the bike is going to jump forward pretty hard before stalling the motor so be prepared lol.
If that isn’t successful, then out comes the clutch pack for cleaning or replacement of the clutch disks. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, I just picked up an 82 750 Virago about a month ago. I've done quite a bit of work to it but It still refuses to start, I was wondering if you've got any advice you could pass along.
I cleaned the carb, Reset timing, Adjusted Valves, but I still get backfires out of the carb. Sometimes it goes through the exhaust, other times it doesn't. What's also weird is while cranking I randomly get a puff of mist coming out of the carb intake. Spark appears to be good on both cylinders. What do ya think is the engine gonna need a tear down? about 25K Miles on the bike.
Hey ! If you haven’t already checked, I would check the compression to be sure it’s at least 110 psi for both cylinders (checked while cranking and with the throttle twisted so the butterflies are open). If the timing is good, you have decent compression, good spark, and you are getting fuel, it should at least try to fire up.
They are pretty sensitive to the idle air/fuel mix needle adjustment so I start at about 1.5 to 2 turns out so I know it’s getting some fuel. Another trick is to remove the rubber intake elbow attached to the carb and put your fingers over the intake of the carb with them closed together…this will create a vacuum and make the slide lift to really pull in the fuel. If it then tries to fire, you can keep it running by opening gaps between your fingers to regulate the air flow until you can get the mix needle dialed in a bit better.
These will actually run on just one cylinder so if you can ever get one firing, you can then work to get the other firing.
Another easy thing to try to be sure the floats aren’t stuck open and flooding the cylinders or stuck closed and not providing fuel is to tap the bowls with the handle of a screwdriver to make sure the floats are free…especially if the bike has sat for sometime. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve.
Wow! Do you have a video on 535?
Hey ! No, I haven’t opened up the non running 535 I have that I plan to get started on this year. Not sure if it’s the same setup for those, but will be interesting to see if it has this same little quirk about the clutch being over extended.
I started tearing down an xv920 to use the motor on a go kart. My question is what wires can I keep and what can I cut to simplify the wiring harness? It don’t need a horn or turn signals or a kickstand switch. I’ll worry about all that later but for now I want it to look clean as possible without a big mess of wires that go to nothing hanging everywhere to get caught on something.
Hey man, yep, much of the wiring can be eliminated for sure, as the motor and TCI mainly just need the charging circuit and the ignition circuit to actually run. The TCI has one wire that is the spark defeat (cuts the spark to the plugs) which all of the safety switches go through so all but the Run/Stop button could be eliminated if desired. It might be nice to keep the not starting unless the clutch was in if in gear (or in neutral) which would require another one of the 4 relays under the seat was kept as well as the one for the Run/Stop button.
I don’t have a bare bones wiring diagram available, but if you are a Facebook user and can join the Virago Owner’s Club forum, if you search “barebones” in the search field, I’ve seen a schematic that simplifies the wiring needed for a barebones bike wiring. You could probably start with that and simplify it even further. Hope this helps and all the best! Steve
Believe the factory manual calls for a 1/4 turn out from soft seat on the clutch pushrod.
Yep, sounds about right 👍. I usually go about 1/2 turn back once I feel the screw firm up and seems to still a good clutch disengagement. A 1/4 turn back is probably good as well…the main thing is to be sure to check that the clutch doesn’t get stuck prior to putting the side cover back on just in case.
Hi there, before I open up my right cover. Mine is an 85 XV700. It shifts in 1st gear with difficulties and back to neautral. When I release the clutch fully in 1st gear the engine dies. It does not go up to 2nd or higher. You think this might be the problem?
Hey ! Not sure, but it sounds like there’s something going on with the transmission gears or shifter linkage. If the clutch pack is stuck out, it will actually go into gear, but when the clutch lever is released while in gear, it won’t engage the clutches and acts like it’s still in neutral.
If it goes into gear with the clutch lever pulled in and the motor stays running, but then stalls the motor (and the bike doesn’t try to lunge forward), then something is locked up in the transmission or rear wheel gearing, or the rear brake pads are locked solid and the wheel cannot rotate. Question…can you push the bike around in neutral? If so, then that eliminates any issues with the rear hub gears and drive shaft and points toward something being wrong with the transmission.
Hi still having the issue. Bike goes into first gear very difficult, upwards is easier. When in 5th it's almost impossible to get it back down. I can push the bike around indeed. I replaced the starter motor and ever since the left cover is back on this issue occurred. I saw a video about the shifter linkage being out of place. Does my described issue sound like that can be what's going on?
So summarized: it rolls in neutral, it engages gears but very difficult and it keeps running. I actually drove it for 10 miles or so. The bike runs and engine doesn't die. It's just that the gears dont shift properly. It's VERY difficult to shift downwards, up goes like normal. Am leaning towards the shift linkage being out of place and maybe need to replace the clutch plates? Am willing to fix whatever's the issue.
Shops don't want to look at it because it would cost more then it's worth according to them.
All right! That's the way to start a vid 😂
lol ! Yep, I don’t think I said it too many times in that video, but did start with it 🤣🤣
@@StevesDIYs the very first phrase;-)
Oh ! The reference to it being a bucket list item what the motor is locked up like? 😂😂😂.
Hey Steve, I sent you an email about this issue with some photos. If you have a minute to take a look and help me figure out a portion of this issue I would love that. Thanks
Hey ! Yep, I replied to the email 👍. Just let me know if that was the issue or not.
@@StevesDIYs Hi steve, i'm not sure what happened but i didnt receive any reply email from you, not even to my junk folder. I'll resend you the email and maybe you can resend the reply? thanks
LOL, I got those same OSHA approved blue jeans.
lol 🤣. Yep, they are nice and ventilated for sure ! I have found that all of that fuzzy cotton makes them easily combustion able so welding is a definite no no when wearing jeans it that bad of shape lol !