I've only done table tops like that a few times, but I always do the bevel by hand with hand planes! Mark the two edges of the final bevel with a marking gauge and then just plane to those lines (do the cross-grain edges first). It actually doesn't take too long to do, and I think it is kind of relaxing. I like the sliding auxiliary fence idea though, and if I had a lot of them to do, that would be a good way to do it.
Thanks Charlie, yes, I probably should show that method more. I have done it that way myself, and actually showed that method during the first episode of season one of Classic Woodworking, a hall table that had a top 14” wide x 44” long. It’s more difficult to use the tablesaw approach with a longer top. Thanks for reminding me, keep up the great work! 👍😎
Great video, Tom. Interestingly enough, just yesterday I built the same exact jig with one exception. I made it adjustable by using a solid fence with a slot cut into it on each end to accept two bolts epoxied into the base. Works great and, as you say, very safe. Looking forward to more videos.
Yes, a light pass on the jointer will do fine. However, as you know from having experience with the jointer, it leaves a light scalloping on the surface due to the blades of the cutter head, which are best to remove before finishing. Sanding works to remove these but it’s soffit I see when the marks are gone and a challenge to remove them by sanding on a narrow surface like a leg without rounding over the surface a bit. The advantage to hand planing is it leaves a clean surface needing only to soften the edges or a very light sanding. I hope that makes sense and helps. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
I've only done table tops like that a few times, but I always do the bevel by hand with hand planes! Mark the two edges of the final bevel with a marking gauge and then just plane to those lines (do the cross-grain edges first). It actually doesn't take too long to do, and I think it is kind of relaxing. I like the sliding auxiliary fence idea though, and if I had a lot of them to do, that would be a good way to do it.
Thanks Charlie, yes, I probably should show that method more. I have done it that way myself, and actually showed that method during the first episode of season one of Classic Woodworking, a hall table that had a top 14” wide x 44” long. It’s more difficult to use the tablesaw approach with a longer top.
Thanks for reminding me, keep up the great work! 👍😎
Thanks for sharing! I appreciate the supplemental details & explanations. Good way of teaching!
Awesome, thank you, so glad you enjoy it! 👍
Great video, Tom. Interestingly enough, just yesterday I built the same exact jig with one exception. I made it adjustable by using a solid fence with a slot cut into it on each end to accept two bolts epoxied into the base. Works great and, as you say, very safe. Looking forward to more videos.
Nice, sounds like an improvement over mine, thanks!
Hi Tom, would a light pass on the jointer accomplish same as the hand plane? I don't have any hand planes.
Yes, a light pass on the jointer will do fine. However, as you know from having experience with the jointer, it leaves a light scalloping on the surface due to the blades of the cutter head, which are best to remove before finishing. Sanding works to remove these but it’s soffit I see when the marks are gone and a challenge to remove them by sanding on a narrow surface like a leg without rounding over the surface a bit. The advantage to hand planing is it leaves a clean surface needing only to soften the edges or a very light sanding.
I hope that makes sense and helps. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
g.m tom
Thank you 🙏