FJ holden Grey motor rebuild Part 7: Rocker install and adjustment
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- In this video we install the lifters, clean and install the pushrods than fit rockers and a detailed video on adjustment.
Once complete we will complete the install of the sump, timing cover and the water pump.
Enjoying these videos. Brings back memories from working on grey motors in my garage in the 1970's. My recollection is that doing the tappets you turn the motor over so when No 6 exhaust valve is open,(Valve down), you adjust No 1 exhaust, When No 6 inlet is open you adjust No 1 inlet. Then when no 5 inlet is open, adjust No 2 inlet. etc. This way you dont have to check which valves are rocking and it is a bit quicker. Also if you slightly tighten the nut on the rocker so you can just turn the screw, when the gap is right just finally tighten the nut, you will do the adjustments quicker. You can also use go and no go feeler gauges to do the final check. On the inlet a 007" feeler gauge will go and a 009" will no go. Also the Holden workshop manual says you will need to check the tappets when the engine is hot which is a bit of a pain. I remember those cork gaskets. What a pain they are to get right. No wonder so many grey motors were covered with grease. One other minor comment, ideally you should install the harmonic balancer before tightening the timing cover bolts as this ensures that the seal is centred on the harmonic balancer shaft. Great videos. It good to see someone keeping Australian automotive history alive.
G’day Michael, thanks for your kind comments.
Yea those cork gaskets have always been painful no matter how many you install.
I will try the tapper adjustment you recommend on the next grey I do as I like to try new ideas from experienced people. That’s how we learn.
In regards to adjusting the tappers when hot I do check them again on the first start up as you will see in the upcoming video.
I’m all about keeping the classics alive so thank you and enjoy my future episodes.
Cheers mate.
Heck I have used lock tight on gaskets before, I needed something to get it to stick, it worked, didn't leak, I can't recall what it's called, but I like the non hardening sealer, non silicone based stuff, it's similar to Honda bond and such, but later when disassembled it's not a solid glue, it's about like a playdough , I think permatex made it, it's been 30 years since I had any, I been using black rtv mostly, but prefer the grey non hardening stuff,
Would be interested in finding out what it was, let me know if you remember.
Cheers mate.
Enjoy.
Bravo! What you did took real courage, with respect to available parts & surviving know-how.
Thanks for the kind words Jim enjoy the future episodes mate.
Cheers.
That is one strange engine design!! Tiny rod journals , looks like a monster turbo version would be about 200-250 HP, if it survived, tiny ports, strange engine, but kinda cool,
Never played with turbo’s before maybe should try one?
Cheers buddy.
Well done. Only comment fit freeze plugs behind push rods first.
Permatex is the perfect sealant for cork. If you want to get technical spray some contact cement on pan side only and permatex on block for easier removal
Thanks for the kind words mate.
Will keep that in mind for the next one I build.
Enjoy not long now to first start.
Cheers.
I noticed the valve springs are progressively wound; I also noticed there seemed to be no pattern for which way the tight coils were fitted. Normally the tight coils are placed next to the cylinder head, but in this engine only some of them were fitted that way.
Thank you very much. Learning every day.
Does it make a huge difference?
Cheers.
@@petersbackyardbuilds It might not make a difference in performance for this engine, but I have seen progressively wound springs break because they were fitted in reverse. Then there is the optic, which to me is very important. Your work reflects your competence. If you still have the engine the springs can be addressed without a lot of work. Valves can be held in place using compressed air allowing the springs to be corrected. Good luck.
Thanks mate, definitely will be changing them. Not that hard to do with the head on.
Appreciate your input.
Cheers.
Fantastic work by a real-world mechanic! Might have said this already in another vid., but I like the way you just use plain engine oil for assembly. The overuse of synthetic assembly paste in so many other UA-cam channels (they just slather the stuff everywhere) must, I think, hinder the bedding-in of the piston rings. I'd be interested to know what others think! Cheers, Mike.
Thanks Mike, enjoy!!
What years were those engines built?
The 132cub grey motor was 1948 to 1956 than the 138cub grey motor from 1956 to 1963 I believe.
@@petersbackyardbuilds Was that engine loosely based on the GM stove bolt 6 or was it Holden’s own design? Just curious. I’ve only had mid 60s and later Chevy 6s apart.
I believe it was holden’s own design.
@@petersbackyardbuilds I was thinking so as I’ve never seen a GM six with that side plate unless real early ones. I’ve been under the understanding that Holden had connections with GM, is that so?
In the early 1920’s GM had holden make body’s for them and then merged around 10years later as GMH Australia. ( General Motors holden).
It was around 1946 GMH wanted to produce its own car for Australia and 2 years later in 1948 the first Australian holden was produced.
Known as the 48-215 or the FX holden.
In 2020 GM decided to cease production on holden vehicles in Australia and closed the factory.
Very sad as it was part of Australian history.