Stuart, I work in the MUFX industry and I've been watching makeup how-to videos for most of thirty years. Yours are undoubtedly the best I've ever watched and I hope your teaching endeavors succeed wildy. Cheers...
It has to be really dry, so if it slimy at all then it needs to be dried. The plaster itself is ideally cast in a thin section so it dries out properly quicker. I'd say 10mm thick is ideal, rather than pouring the plaster solid. It may take a few days or a week to dry out if you don't have a workshop oven or a wig oven. Then apply the KY (I hear that Elmer's white glue is also good) and keep it an even thickness. Then allow this to dry thoroughly, a couple of days in warm environment. Also checking the plastiline isn't Hardas the Medium and Soft will stick better.
What was the reason for not sculpting directly onto the carbon core you made? I've heard of the floaty off the face thingy but not seen it work quite as well as that! I can see it being really useful, perhaps for making the same prosthetic for multiple people, just float it off and stick it on another face (ish). Really good tutorial again! Can't wait to try it out.
@IcePhoenix6 You could probably get away with sculpting it directly on the resin core, but to have done so would be to miss the opportunity of showing you this way. Usually, you would sculpt a large area (usually a full head) makeup as one sculpt, so you can see what the whole makeup will look like. Then, for practicality, you then slice it up into sections and immerse in water so each section can be finished on a separate core in the safe knowledge the assemled makeup will fit correctly.
@nightshadedesign Wow - thank a lot! I am slowly getting more confident as I go, and I really enjoy making these. Thank you for your kind words! -Stuart
Your amazing mate! id LOVE to hang out with you... totally my kinda guy, especially on the stuff your into. i make toys myself, but most of the same tools/methods
Hi Stuart- thank you for the informative video! I have tried this technique with using KY jelly, but my clay does not hold onto the surface after the KY jelly has dried. I am using chavant clay though but I didn't think this would matter? Could you offer any solutions to my problem?
Is there a benefit to having the cheeks come down as low as they do in this sculpt? Is it to help blend out the build up around the eyes, help hide seems, or even just to emphasise the nasolabial folds?
Liam Andrews in this case it's to allow plenty of area for the thickness of the appliance to taper off without having obvious build-up as a smaller piece needs to finish sooner. Then you end up with flesh coloured volcanoes which are obviously built up. Also the edge finishes where the nasolabial folds naturally are as this is a good place to hide a seam.
Hi Stuart. I love this tutorial but I don`t understand why you sculpt on plaster face before transferring to resin face. Why don`t you sculpt straight on resin face?
You could probably get away with sculpting it directly on the resin core, but to have done so would be to miss the opportunity of showing you this way. Usually, you would sculpt a large area (usually a full head) makeup as one sculpt, so you can see what the whole makeup will look like. Then, for practicality, you then slice it up into sections and immerse in water so each section can be finished on a separate core in the safe knowledge the assembled makeup will fit correctly.
Does anyone know if it would be more efficient to use a tiny slow cooker to heat up Plastiline? I have a really small one that's supposed to be for dips but I never use it.
Greetings! I'm having trouble floating a sculpt as shown here. I used slightly different materials and I was wondering if you could help identify the culprit: -ultra cal 30 (instead of moulding plaster or hydrocal) core is 1-2 inches thick all around -astroglide (instead of KY) let dry for 24 hrs -NSP Medium from chavante. Clay was never heated up. -soaked for 16 hrs The sculpt was very thin, 1 mm in some places and edges. Clay tended to tear and crumble instead of poppin off. I'm bummed but okay with loosing my sculpt (as long as I know why!!!). Any advice or suggestions for alternative releases appreciated. Many thanks! Izzi
Sounds as simple as the release wasn't sufficient. Ideally I would get some KY or better yet, Alcote release (Dental Separator : www.fxwarehouse.info/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FW&Product_Code=0254&Category_Code= ) as that is designed for this. If you invest a lot of time in the sculpt, it's better to get the good stuff.
the detail and care you take in your work is incredible
Stuart, I work in the MUFX industry and I've been watching makeup how-to videos for most of thirty years. Yours are undoubtedly the best I've ever watched and I hope your teaching endeavors succeed wildy. Cheers...
This is so interesting, definitely makes me rethink what I would like to do for a living!
"If you don't know what KY Jelly is, IIIII suggest you google it...." Never fails to make me laugh.
You are a very good tutor, thanks a lot
You always do great work, your eye for detail is cunning!
It has to be really dry, so if it slimy at all then it needs to be dried. The plaster itself is ideally cast in a thin section so it dries out properly quicker. I'd say 10mm thick is ideal, rather than pouring the plaster solid. It may take a few days or a week to dry out if you don't have a workshop oven or a wig oven.
Then apply the KY (I hear that Elmer's white glue is also good) and keep it an even thickness. Then allow this to dry thoroughly, a couple of days in warm environment.
Also checking the plastiline isn't Hardas the Medium and Soft will stick better.
What was the reason for not sculpting directly onto the carbon core you made? I've heard of the floaty off the face thingy but not seen it work quite as well as that! I can see it being really useful, perhaps for making the same prosthetic for multiple people, just float it off and stick it on another face (ish). Really good tutorial again! Can't wait to try it out.
Working on it. Gotta fit it in around working, kids and stuff. It is all shot and in editing. I do a bit every day and I'll get it out asap.
-Stuart
@IcePhoenix6 You could probably get away with sculpting it directly on the resin core, but to have done so would be to miss the opportunity of showing you this way. Usually, you would sculpt a large area (usually a full head) makeup as one sculpt, so you can see what the whole makeup will look like.
Then, for practicality, you then slice it up into sections and immerse in water so each section can be finished on a separate core in the safe knowledge the assemled makeup will fit correctly.
very cool bray
@nightshadedesign Wow - thank a lot! I am slowly getting more confident as I go, and I really enjoy making these. Thank you for your kind words!
-Stuart
Your amazing mate! id LOVE to hang out with you... totally my kinda guy, especially on the stuff your into. i make toys myself, but most of the same tools/methods
@sezzyberr was it the submarine ping sounds?
Could you please do a tutorial on melting placetecine
Simply amazing! You're the best!! xox
hey mate you gotta make me one!
Hi Stuart- thank you for the informative video! I have tried this technique with using KY jelly, but my clay does not hold onto the surface after the KY jelly has dried. I am using chavant clay though but I didn't think this would matter? Could you offer any solutions to my problem?
@MrKoolmew Yup. Past a crashed computer, lost file, redoing itt again and a weekend of attempted uploading...just for you! lol
It's called plaster cine
Is there a benefit to having the cheeks come down as low as they do in this sculpt? Is it to help blend out the build up around the eyes, help hide seems, or even just to emphasise the nasolabial folds?
Liam Andrews in this case it's to allow plenty of area for the thickness of the appliance to taper off without having obvious build-up as a smaller piece needs to finish sooner. Then you end up with flesh coloured volcanoes which are obviously built up.
Also the edge finishes where the nasolabial folds naturally are as this is a good place to hide a seam.
Brilliant, thank you so much!
@EVITANDY Cos I thought it would be funnier than saying. Plus you can hear see my voice blush.
-Stuart
Hi Stuart. I love this tutorial but I don`t understand why you sculpt on plaster face before transferring to resin face. Why don`t you sculpt straight on resin face?
You could probably get away with sculpting it directly on the resin core, but to have done so would be to miss the opportunity of showing you this way. Usually, you would sculpt a large area (usually a full head) makeup as one sculpt, so you can see what the whole makeup will look like.
Then, for practicality, you then slice it up into sections and immerse in water so each section can be finished on a separate core in the safe knowledge the assembled makeup will fit correctly.
stuart bray Very useful information, Stuart! Thank you so much for sharing with us. Regards from Brazil.
part 3?
@stuartbray73 I see :-)
Does anyone know if it would be more efficient to use a tiny slow cooker to heat up Plastiline? I have a really small one that's supposed to be for dips but I never use it.
Amanda Rose I use a slow cooker. £15 from tesco. works great.
Greetings! I'm having trouble floating a sculpt as shown here. I used slightly different materials and I was wondering if you could help identify the culprit:
-ultra cal 30 (instead of moulding plaster or hydrocal) core is 1-2 inches thick all around
-astroglide (instead of KY) let dry for 24 hrs
-NSP Medium from chavante. Clay was never heated up.
-soaked for 16 hrs
The sculpt was very thin, 1 mm in some places and edges. Clay tended to tear and crumble instead of poppin off. I'm bummed but okay with loosing my sculpt (as long as I know why!!!). Any advice or suggestions for alternative releases appreciated.
Many thanks!
Izzi
Sounds as simple as the release wasn't sufficient. Ideally I would get some KY or better yet, Alcote release (Dental Separator : www.fxwarehouse.info/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FW&Product_Code=0254&Category_Code= ) as that is designed for this. If you invest a lot of time in the sculpt, it's better to get the good stuff.
Thanks, man! I see that Alcote was mentioned in your material comments for this video. I'll read up next time!
Any particular reason why you use melted down plasteline rather than NSP chavant?
yeah...I hate chavant. I don't like the smell or feel of it and always use my preferred choice of grey grade 50 plastiline by J. Herbin.
KY hehe
what's the hardness of that grey plaateline? need to know thanks
The grey plastiline I use comes in about seven softnesses.... This one is grade 50. They go from 40 to 70.
@@stuartbray all good process we'll documented. thank you for the response
Is there anywhere to buy the loop tools you are using? Or something similar?
Sure. Alec Tiranti in UK and The Compleat Sculptor in NY
Why so coy about KY?
5:54 *crazy jazz optional*
For the love of all that is right in this world, do a Voldemort tutorial!!! Please!!! It is your duty to the internet!!!